diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/selfignt.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/selfignt.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4543d199 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/selfignt.txt @@ -0,0 +1,488 @@ + + +[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] + + + PYRO2.TXT Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives + +This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious +stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you +kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your +body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't +treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it. + +Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read +'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules +that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about +the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly +before starting anything. + +Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable, +and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear +understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of +ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided. +Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following: + + 1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at + most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for + bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with + every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.) + + 2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale + pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of + water before weighing the next ingredient. + + 3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the + workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open + containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage + or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and + replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment. + + 4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER + TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding + another ingredient. + + 5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable + structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should + also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass + also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an + accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the + top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some + mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in + a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform. + In all cases, point the open end of the container away from + yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any + stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid + sparks or static. + + Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on + a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them + across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time. + + 6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the + material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the + contents down. + + 7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire + hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be + stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an + accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous, + they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably + locked away. + + 8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly + cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber + or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture + caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the + friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any + procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS. + + 9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES. + Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure + lenses and frames are not flammable. + + 10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust + form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there. + They may cause serious illnesses later on in life. + + 11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals. + + 12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron. + + 13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system. + + 14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working. + + 15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they + produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot + lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode + dust floating in the air. + + 16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one. + + 17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher, + hose, etc.) + + 18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or + put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle + than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can. + This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have + been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again, + please do not use metal in any circumstance. + + 19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. + Some information will be included in each file, but look for + whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once + thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff. + + 20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't + forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE. + + 21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a + half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload + or reuse any dud. + + 22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are + doing and leave until it settles. + + 23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything. + + 24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates, + Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't + drop them, or even handle them roughly. + +These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one +example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the +good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got +out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the +green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man +got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor +we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these +chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable +of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take +this stuff lightly. + +We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite +dangerous. Please read the following information carefully. + + +Sodium Azide - NaN + 3 +This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it +gently. + +Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO ) + 3 2 +This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will +absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints +and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in +your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless +with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one +afternoon. + +Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO + 4 3 +Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large +quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this +material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it +decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use +it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off +with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here. + +Potassium Nitrate - KNO + 3 +Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals. +It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is, +when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture +burn. + +Potassium Potassium + Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen + + 2KNO ---> 2KNO + O + 3 2 2 + + + +Potassium Chlorate - KClO + 3 +A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only +yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic +mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn +more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be +useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like. +Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium +Chlorate is also poisonous. + +Potassium Potassium + Chlorate Chloride Oxygen + + 2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O + 3 2 + + +Aluminum Dust + +Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a +solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can +seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any +clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an +open flame. + +Zinc Dust + +Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still +worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled. + +Lampblack + +This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other +manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures +than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they +stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you +should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using +this. + +Sulfur + +A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy +this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these +will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself. + +Potassium Permanganate + +An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here. +Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less +effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just +the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine. +If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up +with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be +thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!! + +Gum Arabic + +A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful +for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass. + +Sodium Peroxide + +A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it +touch your skin. + +Glycerine + +A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get +burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff. + +Iodine Crystals + +Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses +poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches +and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and +notice the odor, you should leave the area. + + + + Touch Paper + +This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is +ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by +soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated +solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have +dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up +to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a +small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary +paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite +gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else. + +Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to +make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the +fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained +from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere. + + + Self Igniting Mixtures + +Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an +asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall +onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then +flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is +oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated. +Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to +catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off +some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE +MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I +know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done. +Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn. + +This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of +poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine +crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound +and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into +flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is +very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off +by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately +before you plan to use it. + +Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium +peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep +Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your +skin, for example.) + +Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these +SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of +water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the +quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc. +Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this +mixture. + + + Percussion Explosives + +This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting +possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing +Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT +more sensitive than the ones shown here. + + +Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be +ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any +pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one +gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a +loud report. + +Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above, + + Potassium Chlorate 6 + Lampblack 4 + Sulfur 1 + +Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only. + + + + Lead Azide Pb(N ) + 3 2 + +Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and +others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in +open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny +dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The +same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In +larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it +off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already +mentioned. It is very easy to make. + +Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not +to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about +3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it +to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead +Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while +stirring, until no more Lead Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use +it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you +have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You +need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms. + +The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water. +It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this +way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it +in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of +an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the +mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the +shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged +between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed +the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make +the filter paper explosive. + +Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a +couple of grams at one time. + + Reaction Equations + +Lead Sodium Lead Sodium +Nitrate Azide Azide Nitrate + +Pb(NO ) + 2NaN ---> Pb(N ) + 2NaNO + 3 2 3 3 2 3 + +Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the +water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and +this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff. +Dump it out. + +To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of +touch paper in the following shape + + + +----------------------------- +! ! +! ! +! --------------- +! ! +! --------------- +! ! +! ! +----------------------------- + +Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and +the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet +Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry +thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the +very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will +produce a fairly loud explosion. + + + A Lead Azide Booby Trap + +Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A +couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece +depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the +center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z" +should be about one inch long. + + +-------------------------------------. + . + . + . + -------------------------------------------------- + + Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z + +Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it +unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely +together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2 +tries to show what this will look like. + +-------------//////////////////----------------- + + Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly + +Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The +Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut +out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted +portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two +inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure +3. + + ------------------------- + ! ! +----------! !------------------- + ! ! + ------------------------- + + Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap + +You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the +Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by +heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in +the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be +attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation +that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much +Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting +soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope, +and set it off from a distance. + +The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead +Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get +set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so +store these separately and keep them padded well. + + + Getting The Chemicals + +As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab +supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when +mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates, +nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind, +and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply +houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the +things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the +multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs +to cover your tracks. DO it! + + + +[Ripco] Which 1-281 ?=menu,=abort: + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shavingcream.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shavingcream.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..2c5a1058 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shavingcream.txt @@ -0,0 +1,45 @@ +Shaving Cream Bomb --------EXODUS + + +-This may not really be what we would consider a bomb, but it is a +helluva great idea to phuck someone over. You will need: + +(1)-person you hate who has a car + +(1)-container of liquid nitrogen (try a science shop, or Edmund +Scientific, mentioned in several places in this Cookbook) + +(6-10)-cans of generic shaving cream + +(1)-free afternoon (preferably in FREEZING temperatures outside) + +(1-or more)-pairs of pliars, for cutting and peeling + +some phriends + + +Directions: + +Find someone who owns a small compact car, and manage to find out +where he keeps it at night (or while he is away!) Be able to open +the car repeatedly.. Place a can in the liquid nitrogen for about 30 +sec. Take it out and carefully and QUICKLY peel off the metal +outside container, and you should have a frozen "block" of shaving +cream. (It helps to have more than one container, and more phriends) +Toss it into the car and do the same with all the cans. A dozen or +more "blocks" like this can fill and lightly PRESSURIZE a small +car. When he opens the door (hopefully he doesn't realize the mess +inside due to the foggy windows), he will be covered with lbs of +shaving cream that is a bitch to get out of upholstry. + + +PS!- Try to get one is his glove compartment!!!!! + + + + + + Have Phunn.... ------007 + + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shitbomb.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shitbomb.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..39682eb4 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shitbomb.txt @@ -0,0 +1,32 @@ + Shit Bomb + ---------- + + Materials: + 1)Fresh feces(a.k.a. SHIT) + (looser the better). + 2)M-80. + 3)Large baggie. + 4)Lightbulb. + 5)Solar ignitor (optional). + + +Instructions: + + Put the fresh feces in a large baggie. Gently break the covering of a +large wattage lightbulb, but DO NOT disturb the filament inside. More gently +still, attach the fuse of the M80 to the filament and screw the lightbulb +carefully back into the ceiling socket. Finally, move the bag of feces up and +around the light fixture. Make sure the shit does not touch the filament, and +the M80 should should be well into the 'feces'. Tape the bag to the ceiling. +If the filament breaks, or if you prefer, a solar ignitor can be used to replace +the filament. This could take more time though due to the process of attaching +the ignitor to the 2 wires to complete a circuit. + +MAKE SURE THE LIGHT IS TURNED OFF BEFORE REPLACING THE BULB!!! + + If not...you have about 4 seconds to run your ass off! + +When the victim turns on the light switch.....well, let's just say: + + "The shit's gonna hit the fan." + (and probably everything else!) diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shockbomb.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shockbomb.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..581b29cf --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shockbomb.txt @@ -0,0 +1,42 @@ +ubmitted by: FOTBAL12 + +Instuctions on how to make a Shock Bomb: + +Materials: +Get a Package of Granulated Shock. (Chlorine pool treatment) It's only a +couple bucks at your local grocery store. + +Sugar + +2 Liter Bottle + +Water + +Instructions: + +Get an empty 2 liter bottle (Or you can use almost anysize plastic Bottle) +and make sure that the inside is dry and free of any other residue. + +Fill the bottom of the bottle (put in enought just to cover the bottom; +Probably about 1/2 an inch.) Next, put in a little less amount of Sugar, +probably about 2/5 inch. Shake the bottle to mix the two chemicals. + +Next, dump in about a cup or so of water, put in enough to make the reaction +happen. + +Next, Cap the bottle, shake for about 2 seconds, and throw it. Between 1-4 +minutes, it should blow up. Its REALLY loud. They are great to place in +pumpkins! + +Note: I know this real big fuck up who tried to make one. He did, but he +didnt wait long enough. It was about to explode, and he picked it up and +started to shake it somemore. Next thing you know, it blew up in his face +and he went to the hospital. He was ok, but everyone at school made fun of +him... Whats even funnier is this: He got busted by the FBI... + +Be Patient! Pressure bombs are unpredictable when it comes to time. + +Note: 20 oz Coke bottles for some reason tend to react when the shock is +first innitailly dropped in. I recomen the coke 2 liter bottle or a pepsi 1 +liter bottle. + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shotshel.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shotshel.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..075b5f78 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shotshel.txt @@ -0,0 +1,60 @@ + + + ////////////////////\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ + :::: :::: + :::: "SHOTGUN SHELL BOMBS" :::: + :::: from :::: + :::: The Poor Man's James Bond :::: + :::: by Kurt Saxon :::: + :::: :::: + :::: typed in by --] Man-Tooth [-- :::: + :::: :::: + \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\//////////////////// + + + These little goodies are affectionately known as "nut busters." They are +simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with cardboard fins put on. +On the primer end of the shell is glued a small cork with a hole drilled +through it. A roofing nail fits in the hole snugly enough to stay in, but +loose enough to plunge into the primer upon impact. + + Since the shell is not confined in the chamber of the gun, it will +naturally not cause the same amount of damage. But if it goes off between a +fellow's legs he can look forward to becoming a soprano. + + These bombs are thrown singly or by the handful into the air over milling +crowds. The weight of the shell and stabilization by the fins causes the nut +buster to head straight downward. + + It has tremendous effect as its presence is usually a suprise. The threat +of more coming is guaranteed to route any mob. + + Not only does it go off on the pavement but it will also explode on +contact with a person's head or shoulder. At night it is impossible to trace +its point of origin. + + ----- + ! \ + /> ! \ /- Cork + Fins ! ! v + --------------------!\ + ! \ ! !-----! ! \ ! + ! \> !------ ! ! !---! <-- Roofing nail + ! ! !-----! ! / ! + \ --------------------!/ + \ ! ! ^ + \-> ! / ^ \ + ! / ! \ + ----- ! Shell + ! + ! + Close fitting 3-1/2 inch Aluminum Tubing Glued on Shell. + + SHOTGUN SHELL BOMB + + + A clever use for a plain shotgun shell is as a muffler bomb. The shell is +simply shoved up a car's exhaust pipe with a length of stiff wire until it +drops into the muffler. After a few minutes on the road the shell explodes, +totalling out the muffler and treating the driver to a sick kind of panic. + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shotshell.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shotshell.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8ea17d4c --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shotshell.ana @@ -0,0 +1,74 @@ +Submitted by: Zero + +Dear Camdyman, + I have figured out how to take apart a shotgun shell I will +show you how later in the letter so people who nead it can use it!! +I would like to take back what I have said it the last 2 or 3 letters +about the sale of explosives. I dont support that and now wont take in +anypart of selling thanx candyman. + +How to take apart a shotgun shell without loseing a hand or so!! + +materials>> +Shotgun shell 12gage or 21gage +A Sheet of paper +and Two Cups!> + +Procedure: + +-Put the ShootGun shell in the center of the paper. +take the knife and cut through the ShootGun shell about one cenameter +from the top end. It will look like this. + + | ____________________ + | | : ] + | | : ] + | _____|___________:__] + | | Cut across this{ : } + | + metal + + +NOW LISSEN UP THIS IS IMPORTANT!!! +If you are useing a 12gage there WILL NOT BE ANY WHITE POUDER IN THE +SECTION YOU JUST CUT!! But if you are using a 21gage there will be +a type of white gunpouder in the section you just cut so cut carefuly!! +You CAN use the pouder for whatever!! + +For the 21 just put the pouder away for now in a plastic bag!! + +-then take out the round sheets of wadding if you see them. +-Then you take out the iron balls! IF you are using a 12gage +there will be 50 or so small balls!! {ouch} If it's a 21gage +then there will be six big iron ball. [now that's painful!!] + +-Next you will want to make another cut right befor the metal peice +then take out the wadding again from the metal part and there will +be a huge batch of small balls of gunpouder!! or a finely grained +batch of gunpouder {VAREYS WITH THE TYPE OF SHELL}then put the +gunpouder in one of the empty cup and if your smart you will know +not to play with the littel round thing sticking out the +back of the shell!!! **SHESH** + +Ok with the shit of a shell left you can put it in a plastic bag or +the cup and burry it toss it in a river or come up with something +to do with it just rember if you hit the back end after you are done +IT CAN STILL GO OFF!! + +Thanx for lissning I have done this and it is safe BUT I dont sugest +you try this because I am not responible for what mite happen if you +get caught or blow your fuckin hand off!! + +so have phunn.. + this has been brought to you by + Zero!! [there can be only one!] + +/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ +> -=-Zero-=- < +> http://www.geopages.com/WallStreet/2006/ < +> http://www.geopages.com/TimesSquare/2008/ < +> Jon.Zalk@ix.netcom.com < +> < +/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/skoolfun.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/skoolfun.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..2c57574d --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/skoolfun.txt @@ -0,0 +1,79 @@ + + Copyright (c) 1991 + MtK SHx + Pyromaniacal Activities at ShCooL + + + One simple, but effective trick is to apply the simplest of +plastiques to an outlet and blow it out. + + + + First take two paperclips and bend them straight. Next, | | +you take a pencil with an eraser and insert them like this: + + + + Paperclips --* |_|-|_| + Eraser----------* |_ + | | + Pencil----------* | | + | | + + + + Hopfully you should be able to figure out my quite awkward +drawing. Anywayz, now you spread your plastique all over the socket +(making sure none acually gets inside the outlets)(this should be done +in a bathroom). And finally, as you probably guessed, you stick your +psychotic-looking "tool" into the socket, so that each paperclip goes +into each outlet. This step should be done with extreme care, making +sure you have not put too much plastique on unless you are planning to +have finger fricasee for supper. As you now should have noticed, +there is a bright flare of light, and a popping sound. This is an +electric explosion, and it ignites the plastique, sending flaming +Bits 'O' Jelly everywhere. This makes for quite a mess, and I'm sure +you will feel most proud of yourself. If at all possible, make sure +to get a look at the custodian's face after going in there! + + + + For those amateurs who do not know how to make plastique, here is +a simple method: + + + + 1. 2 parts petrollium jelly (vasoline) + 2. 1 part gasoline + + Simply mix these ingrediants in a container (not one you have to +eat in). This substance usually has to be ignited electricly, so +don't go lighting it with matches, and then come bitching to me that +it doesn't work. + + + + Metallikat and Shadow Hawk, can not be held responsible for any +damages done to your beautiful school, OR yourself!!! This document is +for informational purposes only, sound familiar? HeHeHe + + If you and your Pyro-Buddies happen to get caught during you +humorous activities, Metallikat and Shadow Hawk can not be held +responsible for any Detentions, Suspensions, Expellations, or +Beatings by your teacher, principle, vice principle, or student +advisor. + + + + If you get caught, then my condolences. A little bit of +advice, plead temporary insanity ... + + “ 3 3 + 3HADOW 3Ž3AWK.../\/\etaLLiKaT + ” 3 3 + + Another file from RiP (c)1991 + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/skreen.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/skreen.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..aa375d20 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/skreen.txt @@ -0,0 +1,128 @@ + +SKREEN.TXT - how to make smokescreens + + +***************************************************************************** +* * +* The Ninja Warrior * +* Presents: * +* Smoke Screen #1 * +* * +***************************************************************************** + +THIS IS THE SECOND OF THE NINJA009 SERIES, THE FIRST BEING THE ISSUE: POISON +#1. I HOPE YOU ENJOYED THE FIRST BULLETIN AND I'M SURE YOU'LL ENJOY THIS ONE +AS WELL... + +***WARNING*** +AS I KNOW, IN CALIFORNIA, THERE IS A LAW THAT PROHIBITS SMOKE SCREENS. IF +YOU GET CAUGHT SCREENING UP THE STREETS, DON'T MENTION YOUR MENTOR TO THE +COPS. AND IF YOU WANT TO BE A NINJA, OR JUST A RAD DUDE, DON'T FUCK AROUND +IN THE WRONG PLACES, AT THE WRONG TIME... + +BACKGROUND ON SMOKE SCREENS: +---------------------------- +SMOKE SCREENS WERE USED BY THE NINJA FOR A WAY OF ESCAPING IN TIGHT SITUA- +TIONS. THE NINJA HAD TWO TYPES OF SMOKE SCREENS. ONE THAT REQUIRES A FLINT +AND STONE, AND ONE THAT DOESN'T REQUIRE ANY HEAT. I WILL DESCRIBE THE ONE +WHICH REQUIRES A LITTLE HEAT. ALL I KNOW IS THAT A HOT DAY IN L.A. ON TOP +OF A BLACK CAR CAN IGNITE THIS SMOKE BOMB. THE NINJA USED TO CALL THE SMOKE +SCREENS, 'REI SEI NO KIRI', OR SPIRITUAL FOG, OR 'NAGE DAMA' OR HURLED SMOKE. +I WILL BE DISCUSSING THE 'REI SEI NO KIRI' OR SPIRITUAL FOG. PEOPLE HAVE +THOUGHT OF THE NINJA AS MAGICAL BEINGS, MOST AMERICANS THINK THEY ARE MYTH- +ICAL, BECAUSE THEY HAVE HEARD STORIES FROM FICTIONAL BOOKS. THE NINJA DON'T +JUST DISAPPEAR INTO THIN AIR OR WALK THRU WALLS, THEY SPRAY SOME SMOKES TO +HIDE SOME WHERE TEMPORARILY UNTIL THE OPPONENT IS PUZZLED AND LEAVES. I WILL +DISCUSS SOME OF THESE TECHNIQUES IN THIS ISSUE. + + +REI SEI NO KIRI +--------------- +THE OLD WAY OF PREPARING THE SMOKE SCREEN IS NOT POSSIBLE IN THE PRESENT DAY +THEREFORE, I CANNOT REALLY TELL YOU HOW TO MAKE IT THE OLD WAY. THE INGRE- +DIENTS OF THE OLD RECIPE IS IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND. BUT I DO HAVE THE ANCIENT +RECIPE AND THE INGREDIENTS. SINCE I KNOW THAT NONE OF YOU, I REPEAT, NONE +OF YOU CAN GET THE INGREDIENTS TO THE OLD RECIPE, WHICH INCLUDES, AGED AND +FINE POWDERED WOLF DUNG (WHICH MAY BE OBTAINABLE BY SHIPPING VIA CHINA), I +KNOW AS A FACT, THAT IN JAPAN, THEY DO NOT SELL THOSE THINGS, ALSO THE BONES +THE SEA EEL IN POWDERED FORM (WHICH CAN BE OBTAINED IN CHINA, SINCE IT IS +USED FOR MEDICINE DOWN THERE), AND MANY OTHER ODD INGREDIENTS WHICH IS TOTAL- +LY INOBTAINABLE. + +----------- +INGREDIENTS +----------- +THIS IS THE INGREDIENTS OF THE NEW RECIPE WHICH DOESN'T WORK AS GOOD AS THE +OLD RECIPE, BUT WORKS GOOD ENOUGH TO COVER YOURSELF IN THE SMOKE WITH ENOUGH +TIME TO DISAPPEAR INTO THIN AIR. + +- POWDERED SUGAR <- EASILY OBTAINED AT THE LOCAL GROCER'S +- SODIUM NITRATE (SALT PETER) <- CAN BE OBTAINED AT THE DRUG STORE +- SULFER (OPTIONAL) <- IF POSSIBLE, BUT NOT NECESSARY +- CHARCOAL OR FINE POWDERED CARBON (OPTIONAL) <-CRUSHED CHARCOAL WILL DO +- A FIRE CRACKER WICK OR OTHER TYPES OF HEATING DEVICE + + +-------------- +HOW TO MAKE IT +IT IS QUITE SIMPLE TO MAKE THE SMOKE SCREEN IF YOU DON'T INCLUDE THE OPTIONAL +INGREDIENTS. JUST MIX THE SUGAR WITH THE SALT PETER, IN THE RATIO OF 3 PARTS +SUGAR, 2 PARTS SALT PETER. YOU HAVE TO MIX IT GOOD SO THAT THE SALT PETER IS +DISTRIBUTED WELL WITH THE SUGAR. THEN YOU CAN STORE IT IN SOME MEDICINE +BOTTLE OR A BEER CAN. IF YOU LIGHT THE CONTENTS IN THE MEDICINE BOTTLE IN A +ROOM, IT WILL FILL A ROOM OF ABOUT 12 FEET BY 12 FEET ENOUGH SO THAT YOU CAN +ESCAPE ANY SITUATION. IF YOU PUT IT IN A BEER CAN, (NOTE: THE BEER CAN DOES +NOT HAVE TO BE DRIED OUT FOR THIS TO WORK.) IT CAN FILL A STREET WITH SMOKE +AND LAST FOR ABOUT 3 MINUTES, WHICH IS PLENTY OF TIME TO GET YOUR ASS OUT OF +ANY SITUATION. WELL I THINK ENOUGH IS SAID ABOUT THE EASY SMOKES. +**OPTIONAL** +IF THE EASY WAY CREATES ALL THAT SMOKE, THEN WHY IS THERE AN OPTIONAL ONE, +RIGHT? WELL I INCLUDED THE OPTIONAL ONE SINCE THE OPTIONAL ONE CAN DAMAGE +THE ENTRAPPED VICTIM IN THE SMOKE PRETTY BAD. I MEAN BAD ENOUGH SO THAT THE +VICTIM CAN PASS OUT AND DIE, IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH OF IT GOING IN A HOUSE OR +SOMETHING. I'D ADVISE YOU TO STICK WITH THE EASY ONE, BUT I KNOW SOMEONE +OUT THERE IS CURIOUS ENOUGH TO BE A KILLER SO I WILL INCLUDE THE OPTIONAL +VERSION. +YOU MUST FIRST CRUSH THE CHARCOAL. YOU NEED A LUMP OF CHARCOAL PER OUNCE OF +SUGAR USED. I WILL TEACH YOU HOW TO MAKE THE 3 OUNCE OF SUGAR VERSION OF THE +SMOKE SCREEN. YOU CAN ALTER THE MEASUREMENTS FOR LARGER QUANTITIES. +THE CHARCOAL IS BETTER THAN POWDERED CARBON, ESP. IF THE CHARCOAL IS MATCH- +LIGHT. (NOTE: IF YOU HAVE PLAIN CHARCOAL, YOU SHOULD USE LIGHTER FLUID WITH +THE CHARCOAL.) MAKE SURE THAT THE CHARCOAL IS VERY FINE. NEXT MAKE YOUR +3:2 MIXTURE OF THE SUGAR AND THE SODIUM NITRATE. 3 OZ. OF SUGAR TO 2 OZ. OF +SODIUM NITRATE. THEN, MIX THE 3 LUMPS OF CRUSHED CHARCOAL INTO THE 3:2 MIX- +TURE, AND MIX VERY WELL. MIX THE POWDERS UNTIL THE MIXTURE IS A DARK GREY +NEAR GREY, MIXTURE. THEN GET AN OUNCE OF SULFER AND MIX THE CONTENTS CARE- +FULLY. DON'T SPILL THE SULFER OR THE MIXTURE ON THE FLOOR OR CARPETING SINCE +IT CAN DAMAGE IT. WHEN YOU MIX IT WELL ENOUGH, YOU HAVE FINISHED!!! IF YOU +DO LIGHT THIS SCREEN, BEWARE...YOU ARE RISKING YOUR OWN LIFE. GET YOUR ASS +OUT OF THERE BUT TRY NOT TO BE SEEN. TIME THE WICK IF POSSIBLE. IF YOU HAVE +ENOUGH OF IT GOING IN A ROOM WITH YOUR FAVORITE ENEMY IN IT, IT CAN KILL THE +DUDE WITH 5 MINUTES OF THIS SHIT. THE THING IS IT'S PRETTY EASY TO GET HIS +ASS OUT OF THERE, TOO. SO JUST KNOCK HIM OUT COLD BEFORE YOU IGNITE THE +SMOKES. IF HE DOES AWAKE, AFTER THE SMOKE DISSIPATES, HE WILL MOST LIKELY +DIE OF SOME LUNG PROBLEMS. ANYWAYS, IF YOU WANT HIM TO DIE QUICK WHO GIVES A +DAMN. BUT, MAKE SURE IF YOU DO THIS DON'T GET YOUR ASS BUSTED. + +-------------- +WAYS OF ESCAPE +-------------- +I WON'T GO INTO DETAIL ON THIS ISSUE BUT HERE IS ONE WAY OF EVASION. FIRST +MOST LIKELY WHEN A PERSON GETS IN SOME HEAT NOWADAYS, IT'S GONNA BE ON THE +STREETS. SO...LOOK FOR A PLACE WHERE YOU KNOW YOU CAN HIDE OUT FOR A WHILE. +LIGHT ONE NEARBY AND WHEN THE SMOKE GOES UP, LOOK DIRECTLY AT YOUR OPPONENT +UNTIL HE IS VERY DIM AND FAINT, THEN MAKE YOUR MOVE. GO TO YOUR HIDING +PLACE. AND STAY THERE FOR A WHILE. WHEN YOU THINK THE COAST IS CLEAR, JAM +WHEREVER YOU WANT TO KEEP YOUR ASS SAFE. + + +WELL...I HAVE SAID ENOUGH ABOUT THIS TOPIC. WELL...HAVE FUN!!! + +DATED: 01-16-1985 + +PLEASE DO NOT ALTER THIS PHILE IN ANY WAY. I WANT THIS PHILE TO BE COMPLETE +AND STAY COMPLETE AS IT IS OFFERED TO MANY CURIOUS MINDS. YOU MAY SHARE THIS +PHILE WITH ANYONE AND EVERYONE. BUT THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THE SECRETS TO +YOUR SELF. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/slingshot.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/slingshot.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..0a216050 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/slingshot.txt @@ -0,0 +1,25 @@ + Fun Shit To Do With A Wrist-rocket (sling-shot) + +well, scince these things have a bunch of power u can take out those damn birds that wake u up at 6 in the morning when u are trying to sleep + +u can shoot out windows from a reasonable distance if u have good aim..if not go in closer but run fast + +you can shoot shotgun primers taped to marbles into crowed areas + +that damn dog that awaly barks at me when im walking by really piss me off next time rover barks at me im shooting him in the ass! + +if u shoot paint balls u can really create som art on buildings or glass + +light an m-60 and shoot it into someones open garage + +shoot the heads of .22 bullets at shit they work real good + +dont u hate those guys that always yell at you when they go by in their cars if you shoot their window out they wont yell ne more (they might wanna kick your ass though!!) + +im sick of typing now so look for more files by me cow_tipper + +mail me if u liked this crazyskater@hotmail.com + + ------cow_tipper + +p.s. my fav ammo is marbles \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/slpowder.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/slpowder.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..b43a8fed --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/slpowder.txt @@ -0,0 +1,22 @@ +How To Make Smokeless Powder +---------------------------- + +[1> Boil cotton for 30 minutes, in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide. +[2> Wash the cotton in hot water and allow it to dry. +[3> Mix slowly and carefully at 25 degrees Centigrade, 250 cc. of concentrated + sulfuric acid, 150 cc. of concentrated nitric acid, and 20 cc. of + water. They must be kept at 25 degrees C. +[4> Next place the dried cotton in the acid solution, and stir well with + either a glass or porcelain rod (do not use metal). This should be + done for 35 minutes. +[5> After nitration, the acids are washed away, and the cotton is washed in + boiling water five times, each time for 25 minutes. The cotton is + given several tests with litmus paper. If the litmus test proves + that there is still some acid present, a 2% solution of sodium + bicarbonate should neutralize whatever is left. This is important, + since any remaining acid acts as an impurity to make the explosive + more unstable. + + ************************************************ + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smkgen.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smkgen.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..e839aba7 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smkgen.txt @@ -0,0 +1,84 @@ +.............................................................................. +......... .......... +......... Formulas for different-colored smoke screens .......... +......... by: Sour Apple .......... +......... Typed for The Kingdom of the Dead BBS .......... +......... (509) 927-9120 .......... +............................................................................... + + An interestiong aspect of explosives is the extra ingredients which can be +added to give the explosion characteristics it would not normally have. A smoke +bomb is like this, in sense that it is not only useful to create confusion and +chaos, but also for smoking persons out of an enclosed area, as well as +signaling. + +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +Formulas for the preparation of a black smoke screen: + +1) magnesium powder 19 2) magnesium powder 20 + hexachloroethane 60 hexachloroethane 60 + naphthalene 21 naphthalene 20 + +3) hexachloroethane 55.8 4) black powder FFF 50 + alpha naphol 14 potassium nitrate 10 + athracene 4.6 coal tar 20 + aluminum powder 9.3 powdered charcoal 15 + smokless powder 14 paraffin 5 + naphthalene 2.3 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +Formulas for the preparation of a white smoke screen: + +1) potassium chlorate 44 2) zinc dust 28 + sulfur flour 15 zinc oxide 22 + zinc dust 40 hexachloroethane 50 + sodium bicarbonate 1 + +3) zinc dust 66.67 + hexachloroethane 33.33 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +Formulas for the preparation of a yellow smoke screen: + +1) potassium chlorate 25 2) potassium chlorate 30 + paranitraniline 50 naphthalene azodimethyl + lactrose 25 aniline 50 + powdered sugar 20 + +3) potassium chlorate 21.4 + naphthalene 50 + azodimethyl aniline 2.7 + auramine 38 + sodium bicarbonate 28.5 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +Formulas for the preparation of a green smoke screen: + +1) potassium nitrate 20 + red arsenic 20 + sulfer flour 20 + antimony sulfide 20 + black powder FFF 20 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +Formulas for the preparation of a red smoke screen: + +1) potassium chlorate 20 2) potassium chlorate 26 + lactose 20 diethylaminorosindone + paranitraniline red 60 48 + powdered sugar 26 + +3) potassium chlorate 27.4 4) potassium + methylaminoanthra- perchlorate 25 + quinone 42.5 antimony sulfide 20 + sodium bicarbonate 19.5 rhodamine red 50 + sulfur flour 10.6 dextrin 5 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +I will NOT be held responsible by the actions of the people that try this stuff +and I present this as information only. + ______________________________ _______________________________ +-______________________________ April 27, 1988 _______________________________- + +[Mother Earth BBS] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smobomb.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smobomb.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..40eec9b2 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smobomb.txt @@ -0,0 +1,118 @@ +Smoke Bombs +----------- + +Materials: +---------- +Sugar +Potassium Nitrate (Salt Peter) +Pan (soup, etc..) +Matches (paper) +Aluminum cajû +Scissors + +Procedure: +---------- +1) Mix 4 parts sugar with 6 parts +Potassium nitrate. +LY (in pan) until melted, +stirring ALL OF THE TIME! +3) Cut top off of can with scissors. +4) Pour mixture into can (minus top) +5) Imbed 5-10 matches into mixture +before it drys... +6) After it dries, light matches/SMoke +bomb. + +1 Lb. nicely smokes up a city block. + + Enjoy! + + +"Draino Bomb" +-------------- + +A Draino Bomb is most commonly used for the complete destruction of cars. +It is very easy to make, and is totally kitchen improvised. + + +Components: + +[1] Plastic film container (nothing else will work) + +[2] Comet + +[3] Draino crystals + + +Procedure: + +Fill the film container a little more than 3/4 of the way with Comet. + +Fill the rest with the Draino crystals. + +Put the lid on the container. + + +Use: + +Take lid from gas tank of victim's car. +Put film container (pre-prepared) in +tank RUN LIKE HELL!!!!! + +You will have about 10 minutes to get away after dropping the container into +the gas tank before the entire car blows up just like on TV. + + +This mixture is easy to make, and very safe to store, but it is extremely +effective. I have seen it tested many times, and have never been let down. + + + U S E W I T H C A U T I O N ! + + It is a crime to blow up cars! + + ( In case you didn't know....) + + + Enjoy!! + +"Gunpowder" +----------- + +How to make gunpowder +--------------------- + +Gunpowder is: + +75% (or 15 parts) Potassium Nitrate(salt peter) + +15% (3 parts) Sulfer (can be taken from +the ends of matches...Chop into a FINE +powder) + + +(2 parts) CharcoaR (Yes, the shit you put in the Bar-B-Q...also chop finely) + + +and mix it.......voila! (Easy, huh?) + + +"Impact Explosives!" +-------------------- + + +Impact Explosives are VERY dangerous, so use with caution! + +Petroleum jelly (Vaseline, etc..) and Potassium chlorate +mixed in a 50-50 ratio produces an impact explosive that is safe when wet, +but after it dries is HIGHLY shock-sensitive. + +--------------------------------------- + +Mix 3 grams Potassium Iodide and 5 grams liquid Iodine in 50 ml of water, +d(Ammonia water 10%). This mixture, after it dries, is known as Nitrogen +Triiodide, and is so sensitive (when dry) it has occasionally been set off +by a loud shout in the vicinity. Keep in liquid form until ready to use, +then "paint" it over the area or item you want to trap, and when it is +touched.......BOOM! A fun use for this is to "paint" it on driveways... When a +car comes up.... Or on the driveway on Halloween night... or on car tires.. diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokbomb b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokbomb new file mode 100644 index 00000000..c527c8f6 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokbomb @@ -0,0 +1,39 @@ +************************************ +* S-M-O-K-E B-O-M-B-S * +* For the * +* Lunatic Phringe BBS * +* (312)-965-3677 300/1200 * +************************************ + +(1) MATERIALS + + [1] 6 Table Spoons of Potassium Nitrate + [2] 5 Table Spoons of Sugar + [3] Something to melt them together + [4] Something to pore the shit into + [5] about 10 ohio Blue tip match heads + + +(2) THE MIXTURE + + [1] Measure 6 parts Potassium Nitrate and + 5 parts Sugar and put them in the can + that you are going to heat them in and + blend them together. + + [2] Put the can over the stove and heat the + mixture together (make sure that you dont + ignight the stuff in the can- to prevent + this form happening make sure you stur and + have it under a low flame) + + [3] When you notice that the two solids have become + a liquid then take the can off of the stove + and pour the shit into the thing you want it in + and imbed the 10 blue tip matches into the shit + ( the batches should be the kind tht you can + scratch on anything and it will light ) + + [4] one pound of this shit will engolph a hole chicago + block as long as there is no wind + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke-mi.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke-mi.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ebc22d9b --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke-mi.txt @@ -0,0 +1,377 @@ +From: hmg@alkymi.unit.no (Hilde Margrethe Grande) + +This is an attempt to answer a question that seems to be popping up ever +so often on this group, namely how to make smoke. +I have been reading this group for a while, and collected earlier answers to +that question. I have only collected reciepes that has not been pointed out as +wrong or dangerous by others on the net. Still, I have not had time to test +any of these reciepes by myself, so I can not vouch for their safety. My +suggestion to those of you that want to use these reciepes is to wait for a +while and see if anyone more knowledgeable out there has any corrections, +and then try small batches in the beginning. I would be very grateful if those +of you who try the reciepes could email me comments about the results. + +Be careful! +Hilde (hmg@alkymi.unit.no) + + +How to make smoke and smokebombs: + + +Stage use: + +For "Stage" use, you almost certainly want to stay far away from pyrotechnic +devices, in favor of "smoke machines" (which can be rented), dry-ice and hot +water (fog creator). + + +Smokebombs: + +**************************** + +There is a very easy to make, simple, safe compound that you can make to +produce a dense light gray smoke. Only two chemicals are required to make +this compound, Potassium Nitrate (Salt Peter) and everyday refined sugar. +For the optimal yield slowly heatand mix together 5 parts Potassium Nitrate +with 3 parts sugar (parts are by mass) until a yellow liquid forms +(continually stir the mixture through the entire heating process) pour the +liquid into whatever container you are going to be using (aluminum foil +works well) and place a blasting fuse in athe liquid as it dries. + +I have had alot of success with this compound, and it is very easy and quick +to make. the only major problem that you can have while making it is if you +heat it too much and it ignites in your lab (kitchen). + +hope this helps, +brett + +************************ + +A way to make a really potent smoke maker is to GENTLY melt a +60%/40% KNO3/Sugar mixture, and pour the resulting fluid into a suitable +container (soup can works well). Insert a fuse, and let the fluid s +solidify. Watch out for the column of flame that shoots out!!! + +I'd be interested to know what kinds of gasses are being produced. I +imagine CO, CO2, H2O, and maybe NO, NO2, but I'm not skilled enought +to know for sure. :-) + +I can't imagine anything that burns being much safer than this... +however, you should ALWAYS be careful with anything that burns (god +knows enough people are killed by matches, cooking oil, smoking, etc). + +I don't know how suitable this will be for rockets. It tends to +produce a lot of crap (incompletely burned sugar, melted KNO3, etc) +which might clog up a nozzle. Perhaps if the proportions were just +right you might have some luck. + +As you might suspect, it burns much faster when ignited in a liquid +state. Eight or ten years ago I was melting about two pounds of this +stuff in my fathers woodworking shop in a tin can over an open +flame... The setup was on a workbench at about chest level and I was +stirring the stuff quickly to keep it from over-heating on the bottom. +Luckily, back then my reflexes (if not my judgement) were good. I saw +a tiny flash of light on the edge of the can, I jumped back, and the +can erupted like a volcano! An orange and black column of smoke and +flame shot out of the can and burning particles of the mixture sprayed +all over the shop. My parents were away for the afternoon, and I +spent the next two or three hours cleaning up. The eruption charred +the rafters and some wood stored overhead (I planed the rafters and +hid the wood). The burning particles left burned spots on everything +they landed on. I guess I cleaned up well enough, since they never +said anything. And luckily the neighbors didn't call the fire +department when clouds of white smoke were billowing out of the +windows of the shop. + +Actually, with a little common sense this stuff is extremely safe... just +make it in reasonable sized batches (say, one cup or less at a time), use it +un-melted, or melt it outside on a hot plate, don't lean over the +top of the container as you are heating it, wear eye/face +protection... etc. The ingredients are non-toxic (but strongly +diuretic I believe). + +Greg Hamlin +hamlin@ral.rpi.edu + + +************************************************ + +A completely other way to make smoke is the "Berger mixture", which smokes +by emitting large amounts of Zinc chloride to the air. If the air has +significant moisture, as f.i. on rainy days, it works best. + +The mix is made from Zinc dust, wood meal or a comparable filling stuff, +and a chlorine donator, f.i. tetrachlormethan or copper chloride. +Tetra, easily available some years ago, may be hard to get today because +it's now known to be very toxic. + +The classic smoke/fog device was made by mixing zinc dust with some +amount of wood meal and adding tetra until it is wet. Then, fill the stuff +into a pot/tube of cardboard or similar, and ignite it with a pyrotechnical +setup (fuse and powder, or sparkler). It's sometimes hard to ignite, but +works great. Once upon a time we set the whole floor of our school into +dense fog with only a mortar of Berger. + +********************************************** + + +My standard smoke (which is actually an U.S. military smoke) consists of: + + 45 parts zinc oxide (available as a pigment) + 45 parts hexachloroethane + 10 parts aluminium (any grade) + +This mixture is quite difficult to ignite. I recommend using a sparkler +as a fuse. + +Hexachloroethane (which is not exactly an essential vitamin, and which +may be hard to find) can be replaced with 72 parts PVC. This, however, +makes the mixture yet harder to ignite. + +The zinc oxide can be replaced with titanium dioxide (2 parts ZnO +replaced by 1 part TiO2). The titanium dioxide is also available as +a pigment (and very likely originates from Finland! - so use it ;-). + +In theory, this smoke could be colored yellowish brown by adding +iron oxide (any of them) and preferably some other oxidizer +(KClO4 should do the job just fine) to burn the carbon from the smoke. +I once tried this, but the results were not very promising. With +enough imagination and good will, the smoke _was_ yellowish, though. + +These smokes are slightly irritating and not suitable for indoor use. + + +Karri + +******************************************* + +As far as smokebombs are concerned, I have used this recipie several times, and +have gotten mixed results. It originally came from PMJB2. +By weights: + 75% Ammonium Nitrate + 10% Sulfur + 15% Charcoal +The AN must be a fairly fine powder, which is tough to get because it is +hydroscopic. Everything is mixed together and then packed into a used rocket +engine. PMJB2 suggested that you put a few paper match heads at the nozzle of +the rocket, insert a fuse, and then load the mixture a little at a time. +After each layer, pack it down with the eraser on a pencil. Doing it like this +helps to give you a more uniform density, and gives you better control on the +density. After it is packed in, seal the open end up with a few layers of +newspaper, then a melted wax plug. The reaction is sped up a bit if you +add around 5% black powder to the mixture. (I didn't want to suggest using +match heads in a rocket engine...but that is the way the book says to do it. +You only need about 5 heads at most. You can use other containers other than +rocket engines, but I have a few emptys at my disposal. NO C02 cannisters +PLEASE!!!! :-) ) I have done a little bit of experimenting with melting the +AN/Sulfur mixture then adding the charcoal/Black powder to it. I melted the +mixture into the bottom of a pop (I'm from Pittsburgh, soda for the rest of +"yunz" :-) ) can, added the charcoal, let it cool to solid disk and then ground +it finely. Then I would add the black powder, right before loading it. I + +haven't tried making it into one pellet yet. So far the main problem I've had +was ignition. Oh, and a C or D sized engine can burn up to 10 minutes, +depending on your composition. I used the AN that you can get out of +Instant Ice Packs, very finely ground charcoal briquets, and sulfur from +a chem kit. + +Also the 5% black powder is substituted in for about 5% of the +AN. + + +Schrec. + +PS. I'll mention it again, this stuff is by weight. + + +************************************** + +Ok, seeing all the posts about making smoke bombs, I thought I would +throw in my version of the smoke bomb. + +If you are familiar with the group of Japanese executioners from 400 years +ago, formerly called Ninja, then you are aware of some of their diversion +tactics. One such tactic was to make a throwing motion toward the ground +and a flash of fire and a bellow of smoke would rise from the ground and +when the smoke cleared the Ninja would have vanished. + +This will help explain what was used in this simple little device. This +secret is revealed for your reading enjoyment and had been tested by +myself under controlled conditions. + +NINJA SECRET + +Items Needed: + 1 - 3/4" chrome steel ball + 1 - box of toy roll caps + 1 - envelope of SHEET flash paper + 1 - bottle of white or silver flash powder + +Take the ball and scratch up its surface with sandpaper. This gives the +ball a better gripping surface when wrapping the caps. Next, unroll a +roll of caps all around the ball making several turns so the ball is +covered completely. Roll the caps tightly around the ball with the +cap-heads facing outward. Use about 1/2 of a roll and tape the end with a +small piece of scotch tape. The caps are a small form of contact +explosive and this is what causes the ignition on sudden impact. Next, +roll the ball up in the center of a 4" X 4" sheet of flash paper forming a +tube. Tape the center with a small piece of tape. Now take this tube +assembly and add a 1/2 teaspoonful of white flash powder into each end of +the tube. Do each end separately, folding and taping ends securely or +simply twisting the ends closed. The user must be very careful when +working with the finished product as it could explode in his/her hands if +they press too hard. Use extreme care after the powder is added. + +The principle of this entire effect is very simple. The weight of the +steel ball causes the bottom cap to explode when dropped and, in turn, the +explosion causes the flash paper to ignite thus lighting the flash powder. + This chain reaction happens very quickly and it should be noted that +certain factors are very important in order to obtain a finished product +that is 100% surefire. +These factors are: + 1) Size and weight of the ball + 2) Too much flash powder can cause a cushion effect + 3) Too many caps can also cause a cushion effect + 4) Not enough caps can cause a misfire + +The finished ball should be tested outdoors until you perfect the item. +Do this on a hard flat surface. The ball should be thrown in a downward +motion landing about 4 feet away from you. + +Any other questions, feel free to leave a post here, or E-Mail me at: + +witninja@crl.com + +Lates..... +-------------------- +From: sheye@daimi.aau.dk (Simeon Falk Sheye) +Date: 7 Jan 94 16:28:21 GMT + +A couple of weeks ago, there was one or two articles on the +subject of smokebombs. + +The idea was to use sugar, and some oxidizing agent to produce alot of +smoke (mostly vaporized water!). + +I've done this myself a couple of years ago (using sodiumchlorate (NaClO3) +and sugar) with a fairly good result. +But what worked *alot* better was to add Ammoniumchloride (NH4Cl) to +the previous compound. The idea is that NH4Cl sublimates due to the high +temperature, and when cooled in air, re-crystalizes into very fine +particles, like a dust cloud. +In EC, NH4Cl is classified as slihgtly toxic, but still it's used in +candy here in Denmark (Tastes good actually), so i don't think the smoke +is very harmfull. + +To make a smokebomb yourself, you need to get a heatsource (gunpowder +works fine, but i believe almost anything from thermite to dynamite can +do. Then mix as much NH4Cl into the heat source as possible, so that +it still is able to burn. (for 100g NaClO3/sugar i used 40g NH4Cl). + +A version i've seen in school is to pour knoc. HCl i one bowl, and konc. +NH4OH in another bowl nearby. The fumes combine in air to solid NH4Cl. +This isn't very impressive thoug (boiling the two solutions works *alot* +better), but the unreacted fumes of HCl and NH4OH are rather unpleasant. + +Cautions: NaClO3 is a powerful oxidzer, but unfortunatly, shock-sesitive + when mixed with any sort of fuel (including sugar). + Therefore i recommend *not* to use it if you are unfammiliar + with it. + + NH4Cl is listed as slightly toxic, and although i myself haven't + sufferd any harm from inhaling the smoke, i cannot guarantee + that you won't do so. (Check with your chemistry teacher or + someone else who know about the substance). + + +As to the Ari Jarmala's article on Hydrogen bombs, what i user to do when i +was a kid; was to fill a 10-25l plastic container (those used for gasoline, + oil etc. just can't remeber the english name) with 2 parts H2 and one part O2. +I got the hydrogen from aluminium flakes and HCl, bubbeling i trough water to +reduce acid fumes. (This gets *hot*). And the oxygen was supplied from 30% +H2O2 and dirt (MnO2 from the inside of a battery actually, but ordinary dirt +works fine too). This also gets *hot*. +A 10L container can be filled in 5 to 10 minutes. + +To fill the container, i first filled it with water, then turned it upside +down in a big tank also full of water. then i lead Hydrogen/Oxygen in trough +a rubber pipe. This approach makes easy to get the correct mix of H2 and O2, if +you fill it with one at a time. + + + + + |------------| +Surface inside | ----- H2 + O2 + | container __|_________*__| |== <- H2 / O2 | + | | * | || | + | Water| | * | || | + | | | * | || | + |______|_______| * * |____________||_____________| + | | | * *| || | + | |--------__ *| || | + | |_______| |*| || | + | *==============| | + --------------------------------------------------------- + +To set the thing of, i used to drill a hole in the screwcap, where i fitted +a set of wires connecting at thin iron-wire (from those steelsponges that are + used to clean pots and pans in the kitchen) like this: + + + ---- + | ----- + | / | + ======#=== | Thin iron + /| \ | + / | ----- + / ---- + Hole tihgtend with chewing gum ore whatever is at hand. + + +The bomb could be set of through 20 m of ordinary 220V wire (110V in the US?), + with a 9V battery. +The report is compareble to a pipebomb containing ~100g NaClO3/Sugar (a small +handgrenade!), but is alot safer, as the explosion is located a large spot, +thus reducing the effect at a single point. +This sort of thing isn't capabel of tearing of your fingers/hands/arms/head, as +the above mentioned pipebomb is, and it doesn't produce shrapnel flying at +high speeds, but i can still cause severe burns, and it is sensibel to static +electricity. +Preferably do these things out in the open, as it is hard to control whereto +the excess hydrogen flow. Just so that you don't blow up the bathroom..... + +No need to mention: The container is *not* reusable. + + + ----- Simeon Falk Sheye ----- + +------------------ +From: carl@kbss.bt.co.uk (Carl Reid) +Date: 13 Jan 94 08:52:34 GMT + +Heres my alternative to the Potassium Nitrate/Sugar smoke mix, that is safe to mix +indoors: + +Buy some parafin wax from a local hobby shop. Get a glass heatproof bowl and stand it +in a pan of boiling water. Add enough wax until you have approx 2cm of molten wax in +the bottom of the glass bowl. Now add Sugar and Potassium Nitrate (or Sodium Nitrate) +in the ratio 50:50 by mass, a table spoonful at a time. Stir well. Keep adding this mix +until all the wax is absorbed, keep stiriing and then leave for a few mins. You should +notice a thin layer of molten wax on top of the mix (if not add more mix). Now remove +pan from heat source and either a) pour mix into containers (toilet roll tubes) and add +fuse OR b) pour onto a warm tray and spread into a thin layer. Leave to cool. +You should now have a hard crystalline substance that can be ground OR re melted into +whatever shape you want. You can use Sodium Nitrate as the wax over comes its +hydroscopic tendancies. + +This mix burns very slowly and very hot, and produces 2 - 3 X more smoke than the +normal Potass/Sugar mix!!! + +Have fun!! + + _________________________________________ + |The views expressed here are not those of| + |British Telecommunications PLC. They are | + |just mine, and I'm just plain insane.... | + |_________________________________________| diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke-~4.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke-~4.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3d7f1694 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke-~4.txt @@ -0,0 +1,156 @@ + + + ******** Colored fire mixtures ******** + +The following was copied (without permission) from an old book published +in 1964 - Magic With Chemistry, by Edward L. Palder. It is from a sub-chapter +entitled "colored fires". + +The following is provided for informational purposes only. Some of these +mixtures may NOT be safe or stable. Many contain chlorates, and even +mixtures of chlorates and sulfur. Perhaps the adventurous could start +with these formulas, and possibly alter them by replacing chlorates with +perchlorates, etc. Some mixtures have mercury compounds, which should NOT +be used where people could inhale the smoke!! + +The book warns that you should never store any of these mixtures for later +use - they should be prepared at the time of use only! + +You've been warned, so here they are.... + +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- +All mixtures are parts by weight. + +WHITE: ************************************************************ +------------------ +KNO3..6 +Sb2S3..1 +S..1 +----------------- +KNO3..24 +S..7 +charcoal.1 +---------------- +K2S..35 +S..11 +charcoal.1 +---------------- + +YELLOW: ************************************************************ +---------------- +KNO3..4 +S..1 +charcoal.2 +NaCl..3 +---------------- +KClO3..5 +Na Oxalate.2 +KNO3..1 +charcoal.2 +S..1 +----------------- +KClO3..9 +Na oxalate.3 +S..3 +shellac powder.1.5 +----------------- +S..2 +Na2CO3..3 +KClO3..8 +---------------- + +RED: ************************************************************ +---------------- +S..1 +charcoal.1 +Sr(NO3)2.5 +KClO3..2 +---------------- +KClO3..1 +CaCO3..11 +Sr(NO3)2.11 +S..4 +charcoal.1 +---------------- +KClO3..29 +SrCO3..6 +orange shellac powder.5 +---------------- +Sr(NO3)2.4 +orange shellac powder.1 +---------------- +Sr(NO3)2.4 +KClO3..13 +Hg2Cl2..4 +S..2.5 +shellac powder.1 +charcoal.1 +---------------- + +PURPLE: ************************************************************ +---------------- +CuSO4..1 +KClO3..1 +S..1 +----------------- + +GREEN: ************************************************************ +---------------- +Ba(NO3)2.7 +S..2 +KClO3..3 +---------------- +KClO3..3 +Ba(NO3)2.8 +S..3 +---------------- +Ba(ClO3)2.9 +orange shellac powder.1 +---------------- +Ba(NO3)2.3 +KClO3..4 +orange shellac powder.1 +--------------- +Ba(NO3)2.18 +KClO3..9 +S..4.5 +shellac powder.1.5 +Hg2Cl2..3 +charcoal.1.5 +---------------- + +BLUE: ************************************************************ +--------------- +KClO3..7 +CuS..2 +S..4 +---------------- +CuO..1 +KNO3..1 +Hg2Cl2..1 +charcoal.1 +--------------- +KClO3..20 +CuSO4..4 +rosin powder.3 +--------------- +Sb2S3..2 +S..4 +KNO3..12 +---------------- +S..7 +K2SO4..7 +KNO3..7.5 +KClO3..14 +---------------- +KClO3..8 +Hg2Cl2..4 +CuSO4..5 +shellac powder.3 + + + +-------- +For information about this Usenet posting service, send mail to +remailer@soda.berkeley.edu, with Subject: remailer-info. +Please, don't throw knives. diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..cceee051 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke.txt @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ + + S-M-O-K-E B-O-M-B-S + + +(1) MATERIALS + + [1] 6 Table Spoons of Potassium Nitrate + [2] 5 Table Spoons of Sugar + [3] Something to melt them together + [4] Something to pore the shit into + [5] about 10 ohio Blue tip match heads + + +(2) THE MIXTURE + + [1] Measure 6 parts Potassium Nitrate and + 5 parts Sugar and put them in the can + that you are going to heat them in and + blend them together. + + [2] Put the can over the stove and heat the + mixture together (make sure that you dont + ignight the stuff in the can- to prevent + this form happening make sure you stur and + have it under a low flame) + + [3] When you notice that the two solids have become + a liquid then take the can off of the stove + and pour the shit into the thing you want it in + and imbed the 10 blue tip matches into the shit + ( the batches should be the kind tht you can + scratch on anything and it will light ) + + [4] one pound of this shit will engolph a hole chicago + block as long as there is no wind. diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke1.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke1.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4ea37691 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke1.txt @@ -0,0 +1,96 @@ +SMOKE1.TXT - Smoke bombs I + +Name: Shadow Lord's smoke bomb formulas. Thanx 408 again! +Date: 3/8/90 + +%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/% +/% %/ +%/ Smoke Formulas /% +/% %/ +%/ Written By: /% +/% %/ +%/ The Shadow Lord /% +/% %/ +%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/% + +So, you want a smoke screen? Well, in this article I will discuss how to +make Black, White, and Grey, as well as colores Smoke. + + Here is a somewhat explosive composition uses by the Germans in WWII for +black + smoke: + +Hexachloroethane - 60% +Anthracene - 20% +Magnesium(powder)- 20% + + Brown Smoke: + +Pitch - 29.2% +Pottasium Nitrate- 47.4% +Borax - 10.6% +Calcium Carbonate- 4.9% +Sand - 4.0% +Sulpher - 3.9% + +Note: You may substite pitch by soaking liquid tar in sawdust. This has better +effect. + +Grey Smoke: + +A: +Hexachloroethane - 50% +Zinc Powder - 25% +Zinc Oxide - 10% +Pottasium Nitrate- 10% +Colophony Resin - 5% + +B: +Hexachloroethane - 45.5% +Zinc Oxide - 45.5% +Calcium Silicide - 9.0% + +Note: Because of the high vapor presure of HC, HC smokes must be sealed in +and artight container. Also the Zinc Powder one may react with water so +be carefull. + +White Smok: + +Potassium Chlorate- 20% +Ammonium Chloride - 50% +Naphthalene - 20% +Charcoal - 10% + +Pottasium Nitrate - 48.5% +Sulpher - 48.5% +Realgar - 3.0% + +Pottasium Nitrate - 50% +Sugar - 50% + +Yellow Smoke: + +Potassium Nitrate - 25% +Sulpher - 16% +Realgar - 59% + +Other Black Smoke: + +This one make the most beautifull black smoke but is expensive. + +Potassium Perchlorate - 44% +Antimony Trisulphide - 24% +Naphthalene -26% +Solunle Glutinous Rice Starch - 6% +Potassium Perchlorate - 56% +Sulpher - 11% +Anthracene - 33% + +Hexachloroethane - 62% +Magnesium - 15% +Naphtalene (or Antracene) - 23% + +Red Smoke: + +Potassium Chlorate - 25% + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke2.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke2.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..10ff33f3 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke2.txt @@ -0,0 +1,33 @@ + How to make Smoke Bombs + +Ingredients- Saltpeter (Potassium Nitrate) + Sugar + Alcohol (100% is best, but plain rubbing alcohol will work) + Gunpowder (or some ground-up rocket engines) + Matches (Get a box of 50 packs -they can be very useful.) + Coffee can + Cigarette + +Instructions: +------------ +Combine the sugar and saltpeter in a 3:1 ratio (Sugar:saltpetre) and heat +over a low flame until the mixture has thoroughly melted together. (It will +look like sticky white lumps when ready) You need to stir this continually +while heating, and remove it from the flame at the very first sign of smoke. +It is safer to work with smaller batches. + +Now, dump all of this "smoke powder" into a coffee can, add some match +heads, moisten it with a little alcohol, and add gunpowder until all +the smoke powder is coated. Now tape a cigarette between the match +heads in an unopened book. Imbed the book into the mixture. + +Light the butt, and walk casually away to find a nice alibi within 5 minutes. + +Notes: +You should be able to find some Saltpeter in a local drug store. + +All of the gunpowder, match heads, and alcohol is simply to insure good +ignition. You can omit them, but if you have them, mix them in for +reliability's sake. For the fuse, you can either use the one listed, +or either some cannon fuse, or a rocket igniter and an electrical system. + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokepot.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokepot.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..2fb20371 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokepot.txt @@ -0,0 +1,86 @@ + SMOKSCRN.DOC TEXTpZIP  Û  Û +%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% +%% Formulas for Colored Smoke screens %% +%% %% +%% By: Mr. Crue %% +%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + +Black smoke screen-- + +1) Magnesium powder 19 2) Magnesium powder 20 + Hexachloroethane 60 Hexachloroethane 60 + Naphthalene 21 Naphthalene 20 + +3) Hexachloroethane 55.8 4) Black powder FFF 50 + Alpha naphol 14 Potassium nitrate 10 + Athracene 4.6 Coal tar 20 + Aluminum powder 9.3 Powdered charcoal 15 + Smokless powder 14 Paraffin 5 + Naphthalene 2.3 + +White smoke screen-- + +1) Potassium chlorate 44 2) Zinc dust 28 + Sulfur flour 15 Zinc oxide 22 + Zinc dust 40 Hexachloroethane 50 + Sodium bicarbonate 1 + +3) Zinc dust 66.67 + Hexachloroethane 33.33 + +Yellow smoke screen-- + +1) Potassium chlorate 25 2) Potassium chlorate 30 + Paranitraniline 50 Naphtalene azodimethyl + Lactrose 25 aniline 50 + Powdered sugar 20 + +3) Potassium chlorate + naphthalene 21.4 + Azodimethyl aniline 2.7 + Auramine 38 + Sodium bicarbonate 28.5 + Sulfur flour 9.4 + +Green smoke screen-- + + +1) Potassium nitrate 20 + Red arsenic 20 + Sulfur flour 20 + Antimony sulfide 20 + Black powder FFF 20 + +Red smoke screen-- + +1) Potassium chlorate 20 2) Potassium chlorate 26 + Lactose 20 Diethyaminorosindone 48 + Paranitraniline red 60 Powdered sugar 26 + +3) Potassium chlorate 27.4 4) Potassium + Methylaminoanthraqu- perchlorate 25 + inone 42.5 Antimony sulfide 20 + Sodium bicarbonate 19.5 Rhodamine red 50 + Sulfur flour 10.6 Dextrin 5 + + These are cool as hell, for they really do work WELL! + + + + + /////////////////////////////////////////////////////// + // The PIRATES' HOLLOW // + // 415-236-2371 // + // over 12 Megs of Elite Text Files // + // ROR-ALUCARD // + // Sysop: Doctor Murdock // + // C0-Sysops: That One, Sir Death, Sid Gnarly & Finn // + // // + // "The Gates of Hell are open night and day; // + // Smooth is the Descent, and Easy is the way.." // + /////////////////////////////////////////////////////// + + + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokes.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokes.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d46bd6f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokes.ana @@ -0,0 +1,144 @@ + PrimoPyro1990 + + + + + + .... SMOKE FORMULAS .... + + + + +DISCLAIMER: The following file contains information of harmful or illegal + nature. Neither the BBS or author providing this information + can be considered responsible for the use of this file. + The person using this knowledge is solely responsible for + it's use or misuse. This file is intended to educate only. + + + +Smokes are used mainly for screening purposes, so with this in mind this +file will concern itself mainly with white smoke. Smokes are mists or part- +icles suspended in the air. They remain suspended there until through envir- +omental conditions or static charge, they begin to attract each other or are +dispersed. +There are three ways to produce smokes: 1) Vaporizing oil, 2) Spraying a +reactive chemical in the air, 3) Burning a pyrotechnic mixture that releases +a smoke forming chemical. +1) When oil is used to make smoke the oil is sprayed into a device that heats +it up in a flash. The resulting oil vapor is exhausted to the air and when it +cools down it condenses into a mist. Remember the kerosene or propane fueled +insect fogger? This works on the same principal. +2) Certain chemicals react with the water in the air to produce a fog. As an +example there are Titanium Tetrachloride, Tin Tetrachloride, Chlorosulfonic +Acid, and Silicon Tetrachloride. +Perhaps the easiest to secure of these is titanium tetrachloride. If these +chemicals are used, keep in mind that they are corrosive so any spraying +equipment must be constructed of stainless steel or suitable material. You +can use titanium tet. by simply taping a small explosive charge onto a +bottle of the stuff. Just watch out for the glass fragments. Titanium tet. +usually comes in a sealed bottle that if opened cannot be sealed again. +3) Pyrotechnic formulas are made that either through a chemical reaction form +a smoke producing chemical or the heat released from burning the mixture +vaporizes a smoke producing chemical. +The first type of mixture forms chemicals such as aluminum chloride, zinc +chloride, zinc oxide, or sulfur dioxide. The second type of mixture uses +chemicals such as ammonium chloride, napthalene, or anthracene which are +vaporized without decomposition. When using mixtures containing a hydrocarbon +such as napthalene, care must be taken that the hot vapor does not catch fire +when it hits the open air. This will cause the amount of smoke to decrease +or cease alltogether. For this reason a chemical that produces carbon dioxide +when heated is added to the mixture. Following are some formulas of both +type 1 and 2. Also volatile chemicals such as napthalene oe hexachloroethane +can sublimate from these mixtures so they must be sealed airtight. + + + ALL FORMULAS BY WEIGHT + +Type 1 formulas: Potassium Chlorate 20 - 30% + Ammonium Chloride 50% + Napthalene 20% + Charcoal 0 - 10% +Usually it is not safe to use an ammonium salt and a chlorate together in a +mixture but in this case this mixture is usually pretty stable with a storage +life of about 10 years if kept dry. If there is a problem with flaming when +this formula is used, decrease the ammonium chloride by about 5% and add +5% sodium bicarbonate. + + Potassium Chlorate 60% + Lactose 20% + Ammonium Chloride 20% +This is a fairly good formula but may not give as much as smoke as the first. + + Potassium Nitrate 60% + Sugar 40% +Combine these 2 chemicals in a small amount of boiling water. Pour the mix +out onto a sheet of plastic and while it dries, start breaking it into small +pieces. When it is dry, grind it into a powder in a non-sparking mortar and +pestle. Add to it 80% by weight of ammonium chloride. I have had some success +with this mix. You can decrease the amount of chloride for better burning. + +Type 2 formulas: Sulfur 55% + Potassium Nitrate 40% + Fine Charcoal 5% +Mix these chemicals together well and be sure the mixture is free of sulfur +chunks. This is slow burning and the smoke consists of sulfur trioxide, +sulfur dioxide and vaporized sulfur. + + + Hexachloroethane 45% + Zinc Oxide 45% + Fine Aluminum 10% +This mixture was used in the american armed forces and is known as HC. A +charge with a weight of about 8 oz. can produce over 100,000 cu. ft. of a +dense gray white smoke. If the aluminum is not a fine powder it will be +almost impossible to ignite. + + Hexachloroethane 53% + Zinc Dust 44% + Magnesium Oxide 3% +This formula is similar to HC. The smoke consists of zinc chloride. + + Hexachloroethane 45% + Zinc Oxide 45% + Calcium Silicide 10% +This is an interesting formula. In addition to producing a zinc chloride +smoke, it also forms silicon tetrachloride which reacts with moisture in the +air to produce silicic acid which is a smoke agent in itself. + + Hexachloroethane 40 - 45% + Zinc Oxide 20 - 40% + Ammonium Perchlorate 35 - 10% + Powdered Charcoal 5% +This is a newer formula and is mixed after being dampened with a 5% PVC +solution (use PVC pipe primer as a solvent). The rate of burning depends on +the amount of ammonium perchlorate. The smoke consists of ammonium chloride, +and zinc chloride. + + Magnesium Powder 8% + Red Phosphorous 51% + Manganese Dioxide 35% + Zinc Oxide 3% + Linseed Oil 3% +This formula which contains red phosphorous is very good as phosphorous is +the best masking smoke agent. Red phosphorous is very easily ignited so mix +this chemical when dampened with a small amount of alcohol. It produces a +complex smoke of phosphorous anhydride which reacts with moisture in the air. + + +These formulas are usually contained in a stout cardboard cylinder which has +a number of vent holes. A tube with a 1" I.D. 5" long and 1/4'walls is a +good starting point for any of these formulas. Holes can be drilled in the +sides of the tube then covered over with tape. A smoke pot is a large can +that contains at least 2 lbs. of a smoke mixture. These can put out over +500,000 cu. ft. of smoke. +Although the above mixtures are not outright poisonous, do not breathe in +too much of the smoke if possible. Do not use these indoors and be careful of +accidental fires the smoke bombs can cause. + + + + + *** Kilroy was here *** + +Downloaded From P-80 International Information Systems 304-744-2253 diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokes.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokes.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..2306f32b --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokes.txt @@ -0,0 +1,137 @@ + PrimoPyro1990 +....... + + + + + .... SMOKE FORMULAS .... +.. + + + +DISCLAIMER: The following file contains information of harmful or illegal + nature. Neither the BBS or author providing this information +. can be considered responsible for the use of this file. +. The person using this knowledge is solely responsible for +. it's use or misuse. This file is intended to educate only. +. +. +. +Smokes are used mainly for screening purposes, so with this in mind this +file will concern itself mainly with white smoke. Smokes are mists or part- +icles suspended in the air. They remain suspended there until through envir- +omental conditions or static charge, they begin to attract each other or are +dispersed. +There are three ways to produce smokes: 1) Vaporizing oil, 2) Spraying a +reactive chemical in the air, 3) Burning a pyrotechnic mixture that releases +a smoke forming chemical. +1) When oil is used to make smoke the oil is sprayed into a device that heats +it up in a flash. The resulting oil vapor is exhausted to the air and when it +cools down it condenses into a mist. Remember the kerosene or propane fueled +insect fogger? This works on the same principal. +2) Certain chemicals react with the water in the air to produce a fog. As an +example there are Titanium Tetrachloride, Tin Tetrachloride, Chlorosulfonic +Acid, and Silicon Tetrachloride. +Perhaps the easiest to secure of these is titanium tetrachloride. If these +chemicals are used, keep in mind that they are corrosive so any spraying +equipment must be constructed of stainless steel or suitable material. You +can use titanium tet. by simply taping a small explosive charge onto a +bottle of the stuff. Just watch out for the glass fragments. Titanium tet. +usually comes in a sealed bottle that if opened cannot be sealed again. +3) Pyrotechnic formulas are made that either through a chemical reaction form +a smoke producing chemical or the heat released from burning the mixture +vaporizes a smoke producing chemical. +The first type of mixture forms chemicals such as aluminum chloride, zinc +chloride, zinc oxide, or sulfur dioxide. The second type of mixture uses +chemicals such as ammonium chloride, napthalene, or anthracene which are +vaporized without decomposition. When using mixtures containing a hydrocarbon +such as napthalene, care must be taken that the hot vapor does not catch fire +when it hits the open air. This will cause the amount of smoke to decrease +or cease alltogether. For this reason a chemical that produces carbon dioxide +when heated is added to the mixture. Following are some formulas of both +type 1 and 2. Also volatile chemicals such as napthalene oe hexachloroethane +can sublimate from these mixtures so they must be sealed airtight. + + + ALL FORMULAS BY WEIGHT + +Type 1 formulas: Potassium Chlorate 20 - 30% + Ammonium Chloride 50% +.. Napthalene 20% +.. Charcoal 0 - 10% +Usually it is not safe to use an ammonium salt and a chlorate together in a +mixture but in this case this mixture is usually pretty stable with a storage +life of about 10 years if kept dry. If there is a problem with flaming when +this formula is used, decrease the ammonium chloride by about 5% and add +5% sodium bicarbonate. + + Potassium Chlorate 60% +.. Lactose 20% +.. Ammonium Chloride 20% +This is a fairly good formula but may not give as much as smoke as the first. + + Potassium Nitrate 60% +.. Sugar 40% +Combine these 2 chemicals in a small amount of boiling water. Pour the mix +out onto a sheet of plastic and while it dries, start breaking it into small +pieces. When it is dry, grind it into a powder in a non-sparking mortar and +pestle. Add to it 80% by weight of ammonium chloride. I have had some success +with this mix. You can decrease the amount of chloride for better burning. +.. +Type 2 formulas: Sulfur 55% +.. Potassium Nitrate 40% +.. Fine Charcoal 5% +Mix these chemicals together well and be sure the mixture is free of sulfur +chunks. This is slow burning and the smoke consists of sulfur trioxide, +sulfur dioxide and vaporized sulfur. + + + Hexachloroethane 45% + Zinc Oxide 45% +.. Fine Aluminum 10% +This mixture was used in the american armed forces and is known as HC. A +charge with a weight of about 8 oz. can produce over 100,000 cu. ft. of a +dense gray white smoke. If the aluminum is not a fine powder it will be +almost impossible to ignite. + + Hexachloroethane 53% +.. Zinc Dust 44% +.. Magnesium Oxide 3% +This formula is similar to HC. The smoke consists of zinc chloride. + + Hexachloroethane 45% +.. Zinc Oxide 45% +.. Calcium Silicide 10% +This is an interesting formula. In addition to producing a zinc chloride +smoke, it also forms silicon tetrachloride which reacts with moisture in the +air to produce silicic acid which is a smoke agent in itself. + + Hexachloroethane 40 - 45% +.. Zinc Oxide 20 - 40% + Ammonium Perchlorate 35 - 10% + Powdered Charcoal 5% +This is a newer formula and is mixed after being dampened with a 5% PVC +solution (use PVC pipe primer as a solvent). The rate of burning depends on +the amount of ammonium perchlorate. The smoke consists of ammonium chloride, +and zinc chloride. + + Magnesium Powder 8% +.. Red Phosphorous 51% +. Manganese Dioxide 35% +.. Zinc Oxide 3% +.. Linseed Oil 3% +This formula which contains red phosphorous is very good as phosphorous is +the best masking smoke agent. Red phosphorous is very easily ignited so mix +this chemical when dampened with a small amount of alcohol. It produces a +complex smoke of phosphorous anhydride which reacts with moisture in the air. + + +These formulas are usually contained in a stout cardboard cylinder which has +a number of vent holes. A tube with a 1" I.D. 5" long and 1/4'walls is a +good starting point for any of these formulas. Holes can be drilled in the +sides of the tube then covered over with tape. A smoke pot is a large can +that contains at least 2 lbs. of a smoke mixture. These can put out over +500,000 cu. ft. of smoke. +Although the above mixtures are not outright poisonous, do not breathe in +too much of the smoke if possible. Do not use these indoors and be careful of +accidental fires the smoke bombs can cause. diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokescr.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokescr.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..55f41ade --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokescr.ana @@ -0,0 +1,74 @@ +***************************************************************************** +* * +* The Ninja Warrior * +* Presents: * +* Smoke Screen #1 * +* * +***************************************************************************** + +THIS IS THE SECOND OF THE NINJA009 SERIES, THE FIRST BEING THE ISSUE: POISON +#1. I HOPE YOU ENJOYED THE FIRST BULLETIN AND I'M SURE YOU'LL ENJOY THIS ONE +AS WELL... + +***WARNING*** +AS I KNOW, IN CALIFORNIA, THERE IS A LAW THAT PROHIBITS SMOKE SCREENS. IF +YOU GET CAUGHT SCREENING UP THE STREETS, DON'T MENTION YOUR MENTOR TO THE +COPS. AND IF YOU WANT TO BE A NINJA, OR JUST A RAD DUDE, DON'T FUCK AROUND +IN THE WRONG PLACES, AT THE WRONG TIME... + + +BACKGROUND ON SMOKE SCREENS: +---------------------------- +SMOKE SCREENS WERE USED BY THE NINJA FOR A WAY OF ESCAPING IN TIGHT SITUA- +TIONS. THE NINJA HAD TWO TYPES OF SMOKE SCREENS. ONE THAT REQUIRES A FLINT +AND STONE, AND ONE THAT DOESN'T REQUIRE ANY HEAT. I WILL DESCRIBE THE ONE +WHICH REQUIRES A LITTLE HEAT. ALL I KNOW IS THAT A HOT DAY IN L.A. ON TOP +OF A BLACK CAR CAN IGNITE THIS SMOKE BOMB. THE NINJA USED TO CALL THE SMOKE +SCREENS, 'REI SEI NO KIRI', OR SPIRITUAL FOG, OR 'NAGE DAMA' OR HURLED SMOKE. +I WILL BE DISCUSSING THE 'REI SEI NO KIRI' OR SPIRITUAL FOG. PEOPLE HAVE +THOUGHT OF THE NINJA AS MAGICAL BEINGS, MOST AMERICANS THINK THEY ARE MYTH- +ICAL, BECAUSE THEY HAVE HEARD STORIES FROM FICTIONAL BOOKS. THE NINJA DON'T +JUST DISAPPEAR INTO THIN AIR OR WALK THRU WALLS, THEY SPRAY SOME SMOKES TO +HIDE SOME WHERE TEMPORARILY UNTIL THE OPPONENT IS PUZZLED AND LEAVES. I WILL +DISCUSS SOME OF THESE TECHNIQUES IN THIS ISSUE. + + +REI SEI NO KIRI +--------------- +THE OLD WAY OF PREPARING THE SMOKE SCLT PETER IS +DISTRIBUTED WELL WITH THE SUGAR. THEN YOU CAN STO DAMAGE IT. WHEN YOU MIX IT WELL +ENOUGH, YOU HAVE FINISHED!!! IF YOU +DO LIGHT THIS SCREEN, BEWARE...YOU ARE RISKING YOUR OWN LIFE. GET YOUR ASS +OUT OF THERE BUT TRY NOT TO BE SEEN. TIME THE WICK IF POSSIBLE. IF YOU HAVE +ENOUGH OF IT GOING IN A ROOM WITH YOUR FAVORITE ENEMY IN IT, IT CAN KILL THE +DUDE WITH 5 MINUTES OF THIS SHIT. THE THING IS IT'S PRETTY EASY TO GET HIS +ASS OUT OF THERE, TOO. SO JUST KNOCK HIM OUT COLD BEFORE YOU IGNITE THE +SMOKES. IF HE DOES AWAKE, AFTER THE SMOKE DISSIPATES, HE WILL MOST LIKELY +DIE OF SOME LUNG PROBLEMS. ANYWAYS, IF YOU WANT HIM TO DIE QUICK WHO GIVES A +DAMN. BUT, MAKE SURE IF YOU DO THIS DON'T GET YOUR ASS BUSTED. + +-------------- +WAYS OF ESCAPE +-------------- +I WON'T GO INTO DETAIL ON THIS ISSUE BUT HERE IS ONE WAY OF EVASION. FIRST +MOST LIKELY WHEN A PERSON GETS IN SOME HEAT NOWADAYS, IT'S GONNA BE ON THE +STREETS. SO...LOOK FOR A PLACE WHERE YOU KNOW YOU CAN HIDE OUT FOR A WHILE. +LIGHT ONE NEARBY AND WHEN THE SMOKE GOES UP, LOOK DIRECTLY AT YOUR OPPONENT +UNTIL HE IS VERY DIM AND FAINT, THEN MAKE YOUR MOVE. GO TO YOUR HIDING +PLACE. AND STAY THERE FOR A WHILE. WHEN YOU THINK THE COAST IS CLEAR, JAM +WHEREVER YOU WANT TO KEEP YOUR ASS SAFE. + +WELL...I HAVE SAID ENOUGH ABOUT +DATED: 01-16-1985 + +PLEASE DO NOT ALTER THIS PHILE IN ANY WAY. I WANT THIS PHILE TO BE COMPLETE +AND STAY COMPLETE AS IT IS OFFERED TO MANY CURIOUS MINDS. YOU MAY SHARE THIS +PHILE WITH ANYONE AND EVERYONE. BUT THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THE SECRETS TO +YOUR SELF. + + T H E N I N J A W A R R I O R + +NEXT SERIES: HOW TO MAKE A SHURIKEN AND HOW TO USE ONE. + + +Downloaded From P-80 International Information Systems 304-744-2253 diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokin.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokin.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..690b3aa7 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokin.txt @@ -0,0 +1,44 @@ + SMOKE BOMB (3 VERSIONS) + +INGREDIENTS (Version 1): + + Salt peter (available at almost any drug store) + Sugar (granulated works best) + +METHOD: + + Mix 4 parts salt peter with 1 part sugar + Shake Well + Heat at a VERY low heat until the mixture resembles caramel + Note: You do not have to heat the mixture, but it is hard to work + with in a powder form + Shape the mixture and insert a fuse (a match will do it too) + Note: It helps to add a few match heads to the caramel mixture to + even out the burning + +WARNING: This burns VERY hot. Do not set it off near highly flammable +areas. Concrete is the safest place to burn them (and it still leaves a +lasting impression on the surface). + +INGREDIENTS (Version 2): + + 4 parts sugar + 6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter) + +METHOD: + + Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well. + Pour it intoa future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a + few matches to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up + a whole block with thick, white smoke! + +INGREDIENTS & METHOD (Version 3): + + Simple somke/stink bomb - you can purchase sulphur at a drugstore under +the name: flowers of sulphur. Now when sulphur burns it will give off a very strong odour +and plenty of smoke. Now all you need is a fuse from a firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. +Fill the can with sulphur (pack very lightly), put aluminum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into the foil, insert the wick, +and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. You can find many uses for this! + + + BACK TO THE LIST diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokpowd.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokpowd.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..5fce4e38 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokpowd.ana @@ -0,0 +1,47 @@ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++ ++ +++ How To make Smokeless Powder ++ +++ ++ +++ By: Meter Totin of the D.P.C. ++ +++ ++ +++ Call the Promblaster BBS/ae ++ +++ HQ of the DPC 303-422-3759 ++ +++ ++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ + + Smokeless powder is the strongest of the so called low power explosives and is +also one of the most stable. It is much stonger black powder. It is also rela- +tively easy to make. Which makes it one of the most popular explosives today. + + Instructions : Making Smokeless Powder + + 1. Boil cotton for 30 minutes, in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide. + + 2. Wash the cotton in hot water and allow to dry. + + 3. Mix slowly and carefully at 25 de- grees centigrade, 250 cc. of concen- +trated sulfuric acid, 150 cc. of con- centrated nitric acid, and 20 cc. of +water. They must be kept at 25 degrees C. + + 4. Next place the dried cotton in the acid solution, and stir well with +either a glass or porcelain rod. DO NOT use a metal one! This should be done +for 35 minutes. + + 5. After nitration the acids are washed away, and the cotton is wahed in +boiling water 5 times, each time for 25 minutes. The cotton is given several +tests with litmus paper. If any of the acids are present, a 2% sloution of +sodium bycarb- onate shoud take care of what ever is left. This is important +since any acids left act as an impurity to the explo- sive making it more +unstable. + + Use : Of Smokeless Powder + + Well that is up to you. I should mention that you need to be careful when +using this since it is extremely powerful and very dangerous. If you have not +had any experience in these matters do not attempt to make it. + + ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ + ++ Join the Denver Pirate's Club ++ + ++ Call the Promblaster for Info. ++ + ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smpipebm.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smpipebm.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..711a12ea --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smpipebm.txt @@ -0,0 +1,55 @@ +Small Pipe Bombs typed and invented by +12/20/92 Fire and Brimstone +SMPIPEBM.DOC & + Lex + + + Here's what you need. + +PVC pipe (a relativly small in diameter, and sort of thin.) + 3-5 in. long HOW/WHERE .. hardware stores, off of construction + sites, around the house, maybe + +Flash Powder/Gun Powder/Black Powder .. generally any base powder for this + HOW/WHERE .. gun shops, make it yourself, out of model rocket + engines, etc + +Hot glue gun & glue sticks .. a little less than on glue stick is used per + bomb HOW/WHERE .. Hardware stores. You can buy glue sticks at your + nieghborhood Walgreens. + +Fuse .. We have some nice waterproof fuse for this. HOW/WHERE We got this + at a store called "SPY HEADQUARTERS".. you might be able to make + it youself, with another doc. You can also mail-order from a + fireworks supply house. Tell them you need it for your artwork, + or something. + +Drill .. to make holes for the fuses + + + .. + + Okay. Saw off a portion of your plastic pipe. Drill a hole in it + so that the fuse can fit. Be sure to drill before your put in the + powder. Put a piece of paper underneath the pipe, and squeeze about + two cm.'s of glue into the bottom. Now dip this into some water, to + cool it off faster. When it's cool enough, pull off the paper, and + pour your base powder into it. Insert the fuse in the pre-drilled + hole. Pour another 2 cm. or so of glue over the top, sealing it off. + If you have some waterproof fuse, pour some around it to seal it + off very nicely. If you had the waterproof fuse, then dip the + whole thing into the water to cool it down. Drape some of the hot + glue on the top caps you made and down around the tube body. This + will strenghthen it more. If you have enought glue, then cover the + whole goddamned thing in it. + + Light, run, and watch. They're really great, we've done these, and + they work! + + (Watch out for flying pieces of PVC pipe, by the way. If you put one + side with less glue, you can also make a rocket. Make a launcher + out of a bigger piece of steel pipe, and there ya go!) + + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/snkbom.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/snkbom.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..bd227a89 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/snkbom.txt @@ -0,0 +1,64 @@ + + How to make the Smelliest stink-Bomb of ALL! + By The HitMen, Vito and Vinnie + (Whose last names end in a vowel) + +Iron-sulfide stink solution is sold for 98 cents for a 1/8 ounce bottle in +joke shops but for about $1.00 a quart you can make your own with little +problem. The active ingredient is ammonium sulfide which stinks to high +heaven like rotten eggs or a full outhouse in summertime especially if it is +spilled on the floor or vaporized by an explosion or sprayer. + +To make some, you mix four ounces of sulfur with eight ounces of hydrated lime +in a stew pot (at least half-gallon capacity). A quart of water is added and +the mess is heated and stirred until the sulfur has completely blended. The +hydrated lime will sink to the bottom of the pan and yellow liquid is then +poured off into a bucket. + +Take the bucket outside, if you have any sense, and add one pound of sulfate +of ammonia. Stir it a minute and hold your nose. Then cover the bucket with +plastic wrap and let it set for about a half hour. Then pour off the liquid +slowly through a cloth filter into a bottle. If you don't have an outside you +can use your bathroom. Just hope no one has to go for an hour or so. The +liquid is vile but it is not poison. + +Sulfur may be obtained from rose dust (an insecticide) which is very high +grade and makes excellent gunpowder. Rose dust has 10% inert ingredients so +10% more should be added to any formula requiring sulfur. Rose dust and +sulfate of ammonia (a fertilizer) may be purchased in the garden department of +a home improvement/hardware store. Hydrated lime is obtained in the building +supply department where cement is sold. The total cost of the ingredients is +less than ten dollars. + +Stinkum is either poured on the floor, shot from a water pistol, thrown in a +bottle (or light bulb) or vaporized by a firecracker in a plastic bottle. A +fun method in a crowded public restroom is to go into a toilet stall and shut +the door. Hold your breath and pour a large quantity on a loose wad of toilet +paper. Toss the wad on the floor behind the toilet and quickly exit the +restroom. + + + + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + + Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 + Salted Slug Systems Strange 408-454-9368 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 + Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 408-961-9315 + My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078 + + Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, + arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality, + insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. + + Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, + where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sobultra.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sobultra.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..7a7a74ee --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sobultra.txt @@ -0,0 +1,103 @@ +ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ +ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÄ ÕÍ͸ ÕÍ͸ ÑÍ͸ ÄÍ +ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÄ TúHúE ÔÍ͸ú³ ³úÆÍ͵ UúLúTúRúAúSúOúNúIúC HúEúLúL ÄÍÍ +ÍÍÍÍÍÍÄ ÔÍ; ÔÍ; ÏÍ; DúEúVúIúCúE ÄÍÍÍ +ÍÍÍÍÍÄ ÄÍÍÍÍ +ÍÍÍÍÄ A production by: Loki [SOB] ÄÍÍÍÍÍ +ÍÍÍÄ ÄÍÍÍÍÍÍ +ÍÍÄ ÄÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ +ÍÄ ÄÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ +ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + +DISCLAIMER: +úúúúúúúúúúú +The information contained in this file is for informational purposes only. The +Servants of Babuska take no responsibility for any injuries or damages incurred +by the use of the device plans given in this file. + +PRINCIPLE: +úúúúúúúúúú +The Ultrasonic Hell Device emits a very high (approx. 14-22kHz) sound which is +almost unheard by most people. However, it is still very loud and although +almost nothing is heard, it causes discomfort and a headache if the sound is +sustained for a period of time (approx. 1 minute) + +PARTS: +úúúúúú +(1) 555 timer chip (NE555, LM555, or any other 555 variant will do) +(1) 8-pin socket (optional) +(1) 470 ohm resistor +(1) 1k PCB-mount potentiometer +(1) .01uf capacitor (.01mfd is the same thing) +(1) Perfboard/Breadboard/whatever to put it on (about 1.5"x1.5" should do) +(1) 9v battery clip +(1) 9v battery +(1) 8 ohm speaker (the bigger the better!) +(1) SPST push-on/push-off switch + +SCHEMATICS: +úúúúúúúúúúú + + +9v +------------> Speaker - + ^ | + 470 | | + +---------/\/\-+------+-------+ + | |8 | + | +------+------+ | + | 7| |4 | + +-------+ +-------+ + | | | + | \ | |3 +This right --> +>/ | 555 +--------------> Speaker + +here is the \ 6| | +1k pot. +-+---+ |2 + | | +-----+ + | | | | + | +------+------+ | + | 1| | + | +-----|(-----+ + | | .01uf | + | v | + | -9v (GND) | + +-----------------------+ + +Note: The numbers next to the 555 connections are the corresponding pins. + +FURTHER CONSTRUCTION: +úúúúúúúúúúúúúúúúúúúúú +Cut one of the battery cords in half and attach the switch to the ends. This +will make it easier to turn off and on. +To make the device even easier to operate, put it in a case. Plastic, metal, +cardboard, whatever. Just make sure there's a place for the sound to come out +(drill a few holes in front of the speaker.) + +PHYSICAL LAYOUT: +úúúúúúúúúúúúúúúú +The conventional layout of this device is the switch installed in the top of +the case, with the circuit board attached to the bottom, the battery next to +the circuit board, and the speaker over the battery. This is a handy way to +lay it out and looks pretty inconspicuous. + +Another way is the miniaturized version. No perfboard is needed for this, just +the components. Instead of a 9v battery, lithium battery(s) may be used. The +best speaker to get for this is a 1" tweeter- expensive but SMALL and LOUD. + +Attach the components directly to the chip, thus making an extremely small +circuit. A good way to do this is to put the 470ohm resistor and the 1k pot +on the top side, the .01uf cap on the bottom side, and to attach jumper wires +between the 4&8 pins and the 2&6 pins. Then simply attach the battery & speaker +connections to where they belong. + +FINAL NOTES: +úúúúúúúúúúúú +With parts purchased from Radio Hack, this circuit (not including case) should +cost you around $4. With mail-order/surplus prices you should be able to +assemble it for around $1.50. +This device works extremely well in a quiet environment with a lot of people +(i.e. SAT test, exams.) When operated for a full thirty minutes it causes people +within about a 10' radius to develop intense headaches. + +Make sure that when you are using it that you wear some sort of ear protection +as you will be at the center of the sound. + +Have fun.... \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodabomb.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodabomb.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..98803eaa --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodabomb.txt @@ -0,0 +1,28 @@ + Soda Bombs + (Typed up by the Dread Pirate Roberts) + +Supplies Needed: Granulated Pool Chlorine + (At least 75% calcium hypochlorite) + Sugar + Water + 2 Liter Soda Bottle + +DIRECTIONS: + Take a quarter cup of chlorine and place it in an empty and +dry 2 liter bottle. Put the same amount of sugar and place it in +the bottle too. Add enough water to make the mixture soupy. +Put the cap on and throw it away!!! (It splatters all kinds of +blinding and noxious chemicals when it goes off) As the sugar and +chlorine dissolve in the water they will react with each other. +The bomb is about as loud as an M-80. The bomb will take anywhere +from 30 seconds to 5 minutes to go off so if it doesn't explode +still stay away and come back the next day to examine it. If it doesn't +work try adjusting the amounts of sugar and chlorine. + +NOTE: I've never personally made one of these soda bombs, so just + be careful when you decide to make them. I'd be interested + in knowing the results and what mixture you used. + + -DPirateR- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodaboom.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodaboom.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d49f52e8 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodaboom.ana @@ -0,0 +1,47 @@ +THE SOUTH POLE..........[312] 677-7140 +$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ +$ $ +$ SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB $ +$ ---- ----- --- ---- $ +$ $ +$ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $ +$ $ +$ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $ +$ BY KURT SAXON $ +$ $ +$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ + + This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a +soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other +explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is +then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. + + After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine +is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will +not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will +then have a shattering effect on passersby. + + It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's +soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb +he would break a nasty habit fast! + + + !! + !! + !! <-chemical ingiter + --------- + ! !1! ! + ! ===== ! + !*! !"! + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! !<- big firecracker + ! ! !%! + ! ==== ! + ! ! + ! # ! + ! --- ! + ! ! ! <- nuts & bolts + ! / ! + ! ! + --------- + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodabulb.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodabulb.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..e40ed44e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodabulb.txt @@ -0,0 +1,72 @@ + - S O D A B U L B B O M B S - + + These are an excellent starter project for all the would-be +anarchists out there, and I know many a people who have started up +through these. Soda bulb bombs are also quite handy with experienced +anarchists as they can be employed as quite a nice distractor. + +EQUIPMENT: + +Soda Bulbs (you can buy these from Safeway or Coles for about $3 for 10) +Sparklers (from Supermarkets, for 70c you can get 2 boxes that come with + 5 sparklers in each box, they must be the silver, Electric type + sparklers) +Aluminium Foil (duhhhh?!) + +METHOD: + +1. Get a piece of tin foil about the size of a five and a quarter inch +disk. +2. Crush off the powder from three sparklers and throw away the wire. +3. Place a soda bulb in the middle of the foil and dump the sparkler +powder on top. +4. Take a sparkler and cut off the section of wire that isn't covered in +powder, then place it so one end is touching the pile of crushed-up +sparkler powder and the other end is protruding about two inches over +the edge of the tin foil (see diagram). + ________________________________ + | | + | | + | ; . . sparkler | + | ;. .. .; ; ; powder | + | soda /-------\_ . | sparkler + | bulb \_______/~=========================== + | ;;..; ;;.;... | + | . . : | + | | + | tin foil | + |________________________________| + +5. Now simply scrunch up the tin foil around the contents so it holds it +all together in a neat bundle. Take care not to compress the foil around +the place where the sparkler goes into the bundle. + +6. Now all you have to do is light the end of the protruding sparkler +and walk off. + + +HINTS & TIPS: + +* These are beautiful for taking apart letter boxes! A while back I use +to do a paper delivery (I dumped the papers most of the time), and a +lady from the newspaper company called up and said that the people at +such and such a house had rang her up and told her that their paper wasn't +being delivered. So that Friday night a mate and I went to this house +and put a soda bulb bomb in their letter box. Although the letter box +was bloody sturdy (1 inch thick wood), the explosion caused huge cracks +to appear on all the sides and it also blew the top off it. :) + +* After lighting the sparkler WALK OFF, don't run, as it will look very +suspicious if you run off. There is quite a delay between actually +lighting it to when it goes off. More then sufficient to get the hell +out of there. + +* The way these things actually work, is that inside the soda bulbs +there is a compressed gas (carbon dioxide), and when the sparkler powder +around it starts to burn, the intense heat causes the gas inside the +soda bulb to expand, thus blowing out the metal container. + + +.\\orbid .\ngel + =MAIM= + [DiE Trial] diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/softlaun.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/softlaun.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..1bc8ad36 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/softlaun.txt @@ -0,0 +1,227 @@ +softlaun.txt + + Additional instructions for Soft Drink Can Launcher + +This file is intended to accompany the file softlaun.gif, which +graphically details the device described herein. + +Overview: +~~~~~~~~~ +This is a very short "mortar" constructed for the express purpose of +launching soft drink cans straight up into the air. It is crude, prone to +rupture during use, and consumes rather inordinate amounts of Pyrodex. +But it sure is fun, and it makes an incredible amount of noise when it +goes off! + +Construction Materials: +~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ +- Large coffee can, empty, no lid +- Concrete mix, admixture, water, etc. (driveway repair mix okay) +- Steel reinforcing wire +- Full soft drink can (non-carbonated, if possible) +- Paper or thin flexible plastic sheeting +- Tape +- Vaseline +- Drill and drill bit to fit fuze wire + +Construction Procedures: +~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ +Tape either paper or plastic around the soft drink can, enclosing the +bottom of it as smoothly and consistently as possible. Try to avoid any +kinds of seams, and make a fairly tight fit with whatever size can you +intend to launch the most. This wrapped-up can will be used to form the +inside of the barrel (I refer to this as the barrel mandrel), so its +diameter is important. Some cans are slightly different diameters, so +make sure you choose one that is similar to the types of cans you intend +to launch. When wrapping the can, you may leave the top part open, but +the bottom must be sealed up smoothly. + +When you have smoothly wrapped the full soft drink can in paper or +plastic, coat the sides of it with a smooth, thin layer of vaseline. This +will ensure easy removal after the concrete has set. + +Construct a basket out of the steel wire. This basket will sit inside the +coffee can and be encased in the concrete, providing tensile +reinforcement. Concrete is strong for compressive uses, but this is a +tensile use, and the addition of a reinforcing basket will greatly extend +the life and maximum loads of this mortar. + +If you are unsure how close to space the wires of this basket, then +experiment, or ask someone who has experience with reinforcing concrete. +As a rule of thumb, the more reinforcing wire you have, the stronger it +will be, but only to a point. I would recommend a mesh of no closer than +1/2", and optimally I would recommend spacing the wires 1" (one inch) +apart from each other. + +The inner portion of the basket must be large enough to handle the +displacement of the soft drink can barrel. Test this by putting the +reinforcing basket into the coffee can, then holding the barrel mandrel +approximately where it will go. Adjust the shape of the reinforcing +basket to accommodate the barrel mandrel. + +When you are sure of the shape of your reinforcing basket, then tape it in +place inside the coffee can. This is only to hold it in place while the +concrete is poured. + +Mix the concrete as directed. The stronger concrete you have the better, +but it's still probably going to end up blowing up after some amount of +use. :) It is better to err on the side of a little extra moisture in +the concrete mixture, to aid in the removal of air bubbles. + +Pour the concrete into the coffee can, allowing it to flow smoothly around +the reinforcing basket. Do not fill the coffee can yet! When it is close +to full, press the barrel mandrel into the wet concrete right in the +center. Seat the mandrel to the required depth for your barrel length. +Add any more concrete mix you might need to fill the coffee can +completely. + +Once everything is poured and the mandrel is straight and true (vertical), +shake the can, even banging it on a hard surface (this is where a non- +carbonated soda can comes in handy!) or rapping on the side of it with +your hands to try and settle the concrete and remove any air bubbles that +might weaken the structure. + +After the concrete has completely set (anywhere up to a week or so), +carefully pull the barrel mandrel out and inspect your work. It may help +to rotate the mandrel as you withdraw it from the concrete. You should +have a perfectly-shaped shallow mortar made out of reinforced concrete. + +If you wish, you may wipe the vaseline out of the barrel. It is not +necessary to remove the vaseline, as it will burn off within a few +launches. Before using this mortar, it is important to allow the concrete +to fully set. Depending on the brand of concrete, this could require up +to a full month! Don't jump the gun (pun intended), because incompletely +set concrete is far weaker, and will easily explode during launch. + +When the concrete has fully set, use the drill bit to drill a flash hole. +Measure your barrel "depth" carefully and drill straight in from the side, +right into the very bottom part of the combustion chamber. Choose a drill +bit that is approximately the diameter of the fuzewire you intend to use, +and drill carefully to make sure it goes in straight. A drill press or +drill jig may be helpful to drill accurately. + +Launch Materials: +~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ +- Pyrodex +- Green hobby fuze +- Soft drink can +- Some type of load/filler for can +- Match or lighter + +Launch Procedures: +~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ +Carefully review the safety notes contained at the bottom of this document +before you attempt a launch. + +Choose an area of soft grass or dirt to place the mortar. It is best not +to place it on a hard surface, since there is nothing to absorb the launch +shock, and this will greatly reduce the useful life of the mortar. If you +must place it on a hard surface, then place it on a stack of old +newspapers or a telephone book to help cushion the launch shock. + +A keen feature of this device is that you will be launching the contents +of a soda can. When starting out, you may want to just launch an empty +aluminum can, as this is very lightweight and will be a good first test of +your mortar-building skills. Later you may want to add some water or sand +to the can to increase its weight, and therefore its ultimate range. + +When you have selected and filled up your projectile, slip it into the +barrel to ensure a good fit. Slightly loose is fine (less than 1/10th of +an inch diameter), but make sure it does NOT bind or stick firmly on the +way down to seat against the bottom of the barrel. When you are satisfied +with the smooth operation of the projectile within the barrel, remove the +projectile from the barrel. + +Insert a length of fuze into the fuze hole, pushing out any remains of +burned fuze from a previous launch. Make sure some significant length of +the fuze reaches into the combustion chamber to ensure positive ignition. +For fire safety, put a small piece of tape over the fuze right where it +enters the side of the can. + +Add a small amount of Pyrodex RS powder into the launch tube. When I say +"start small," a good amount is a teaspoon or less. You can always work +up to more if the mortar is holding together well. The powder should pile +up at the bottom of the barrel, and be touching the fuze wire enough to +ensure positive ignition. + +WITHOUT placing the projectile into the barrel yet, position your mortar +at the launching site. I recommend keeping it nearly vertical, or at +least tipped no more than about 20 degrees from vertical. If the mortar +falls to one side after launch, it can damage itself. If the mortar falls +over during fuze burn, there is NO TELLING where that projectile is going +to go sideways! + +When you are ready to launch, slip the projectile into the barrel, again +testing to make sure it doesn't bind or scrape too badly on the way in. +Light the fuze and go and run really, really far away and hide behind a +LARGE SOLID OBJECT! Boulders are great places to hide behind, but make +sure the projectile doesn't come down on your head afterwards. :) + +To reuse this mortar, remove any unburnt or partially burnt fuze and/or +gunpowder. Make sure no embers remain. It is usually not necessary to +clean the mortar between launches, unless enough grease builds up that it +becomes difficult to insert the fuze or load the powder. + +BEFORE re-use, carefully inspect the mortar, looking particularly at the +concrete for signs of structural failures, cracks, chips, bulges, etc. +If the mortar becomes cracked, THROW IT AWAY! DO NOT CONTINUE USING A +CRACKED MORTAR. THE NEXT TIME IT WILL MOST LIKELY EXPLODE! + +Theory of Operation: +~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ +The ignition of the gunpowder will generate gas pressure inside the +combustion chamber, and hopefully the weak link will be the soft drink +can, which should go skyrocketing out of the mortar. If you load too much +powder or weight into the can, you may rupture the mortar. This brings me +to Load Notes. + +Load Notes: +~~~~~~~~~~~ +The more powder you put in the mortar, the more total expanded gas might +be generated during ignition. I say "might" because if you choose a very +light projectile (an empty soda can), then it will leave the barrel long +before the powder has burned fully, thereby relieving pressure on the +mortar. + +Conversely, if you choose too heavy a projectile, it will not have left by +the time the powder fully burns, and depending on the amount of powder and +gasses generated, it could exceed the structural strength of the mortar. + +Remember that every time you make the projectile heavier, that means when +the powder burns it has to press a bit harder against the projectile to +get it to move. It also means that the projectile will tend to stay in +the barrel longer, allowing more of the powder to burn under pressure, +generating higher and higher chamber pressures. As all handloaders and +black powder enthusiasts know, a TINY increase in projectile weight or +powder load can result in a DRASTIC increase in chamber pressure, and +rapidly lead to structural failure. + +IF YOU MAKE TOO MUCH PRESSURE INSIDE THIS MORTAR, IT WILL STRUCTURALLY +FAIL AND THEN EXPLODE LIKE A GRENADE!!!! + +Lighter loads will extend the useful life of your mortar. Heavy loads +will stress the concrete more and cause it to crack earlier. But they +sure are fun! + +Safety Notes: +~~~~~~~~~~~~~ +This device can KILL! Do not attempt any of this without careful +supervision from someone who has experience with constructing explosive +devices. Do not attempt this without proper eye, hearing and hand +protection, in case of accidental detonation or mortar rupture. Do NOT +smoke while operating this device, as accidental detonation may occur. + +When the projectile leaves the barrel mouth, there will be a fairly +impressive blast wave emanating from the device, so be sure to wear +hearing protection. + +The coffee can around the concrete MAY aid in the capture and retention of +concrete shrapnel should the mortar fail, but don't count on it. Big +pieces of high-speed concrete can quickly ruin your day. :) + +As always, have fun, and please report to me your successes, your +failures, your improvements, etc. My address is , and you +may find updates to this project via anonymous FTP: + + ftp.netcom.com + /pub/kw/kwd/pyro diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sp.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sp.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..73355787 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sp.ana @@ -0,0 +1,481 @@ +Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives + +This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious +stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you +kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your +body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't +treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it. + +Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read +'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules +that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about +the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly +before starting anything. + +Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable, +and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear +understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of +ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided. +Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following: + + 1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at + most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for + bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with + every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.) + + 2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale + pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of + water before weighing the next ingredient. + + 3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the + workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open + containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage + or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and + replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment. + + 4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER + TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding + another ingredient. + + 5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable + structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should + also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass + also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an + accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the + top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some + mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in + a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform. + In all cases, point the open end of the container away from + yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any + stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid + sparks or static. + + Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on + a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them + across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time. + + 6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the + material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the + contents down. + + 7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire + hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be + stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an + accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous, + they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably + locked away. + + 8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly + cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber + or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture + caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the + friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any + procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS. + + 9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES. + Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure + lenses and frames are not flammable. + + 10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust + form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there. + They may cause serious illnesses later on in life. + + 11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals. + + 12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron. + + 13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system. + + 14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working. + + 15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they + produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot + lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode + dust floating in the air. + + 16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one. + + 17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher, + hose, etc.) + + 18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or + put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle + than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can. + This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have + been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again, + please do not use metal in any circumstance. + + 19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. + Some information will be included in each file, but look for + whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once + thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff. + + 20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't + forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE. + + 21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a + half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload + or reuse any dud. + + 22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are + doing and leave until it settles. + + 23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything. + + 24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates, + Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't + drop them, or even handle them roughly. + +These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one +example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the +good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got +out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the +green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man +got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor +we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these +chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable +of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take +this stuff lightly. + +We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite +dangerous. Please read the following information carefully. + + +Sodium Azide - NaN + 3 +This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it +gently. + +Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO ) + 3 2 +This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will +absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints +and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in +your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless +with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one +afternoon. + +Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO + 4 3 +Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large +quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this +material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it +decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use +it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off +with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here. + +Potassium Nitrate - KNO + 3 +Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals. +It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is, +when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture +burn. + +Potassium Potassium + Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen + + 2KNO ---> 2KNO + O + 3 2 2 + + + +Potassium Chlorate - KClO + 3 +A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only +yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic +mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn +more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be +useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like. +Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium +Chlorate is also poisonous. + +Potassium Potassium + Chlorate Chloride Oxygen + + 2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O + 3 2 + + +Aluminum Dust + +Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a +solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can +seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any +clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an +open flame. + +Zinc Dust + +Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still +worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled. + +Lampblack + +This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other +manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures +than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they +stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you +should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using +this. + +Sulfur + +A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy +this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these +will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself. + +Potassium Permanganate + +An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here. +Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less +effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just +the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine. +If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up +with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be +thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!! + +Gum Arabic + +A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful +for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass. + +Sodium Peroxide + +A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it +touch your skin. + +Glycerine + +A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get +burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff. + +Iodine Crystals + +Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses +poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches +and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and +notice the odor, you should leave the area. + + + + Touch Paper + +This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is +ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by +soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated +solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have +dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up +to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a +small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary +paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite +gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else. + +Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to +make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the +fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained +from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere. + + + Self Igniting Mixtures + +Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an +asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall +onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then +flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is +oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated. +Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to +catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off +some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE +MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I +know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done. +Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn. + +This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of +poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine +crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound +and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into +flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is +very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off +by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately +before you plan to use it. + +Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium +peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep +Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your +skin, for example.) + +Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these +SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of +water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the +quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc. +Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this +mixture. + + + Percussion Explosives + +This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting +possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing +Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT +more sensitive than the ones shown here. + + +Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be +ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any +pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one +gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a +loud report. + +Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above, + + Potassium Chlorate 6 + Lampblack 4 + Sulfur 1 + +Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only. + + + + Lead Azide Pb(N ) + 3 2 + +Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and +others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in +open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny +dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The +same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In +larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it +off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already +mentioned. It is very easy to make. + +Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not +to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about +3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it +to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead +Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while +stirring, until no more Lead Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use +it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you +have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You +need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms. + +The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water. +It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this +way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it +in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of +an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the +mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the +shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged +between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed +the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make +the filter paper explosive. + +Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a +couple of grams at one time. + + Reaction Equations + +Lead Sodium Lead Sodium +Nitrate Azide Azide Nitrate + +Pb(NO ) + 2NaN ---> Pb(N ) + 2NaNO + 3 2 3 3 2 3 + +Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the +water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and +this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff. +Dump it out. + +To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of +touch paper in the following shape + + + +----------------------------- +! ! +! ! +! --------------- +! ! +! --------------- +! ! +! ! +----------------------------- + +Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and +the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet +Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry +thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the +very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will +produce a fairly loud explosion. + + + A Lead Azide Booby Trap + +Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A +couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece +depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the +center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z" +should be about one inch long. + + +-------------------------------------. + . + . + . + -------------------------------------------------- + + Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z + +Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it +unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely +together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2 +tries to show what this will look like. + +-------------//////////////////----------------- + + Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly + +Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The +Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut +out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted +portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two +inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure +3. + + ------------------------- + ! ! +----------! !------------------- + ! ! + ------------------------- + + Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap + +You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the +Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by +heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in +the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be +attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation +that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much +Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting +soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope, +and set it off from a distance. + +The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead +Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get +set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so +store these separately and keep them padded well. + + + Getting The Chemicals + +As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab +supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when +mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates, +nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind, +and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply +houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the +things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the +multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs +to cover your tracks. DO it! + +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS...... + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sp.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sp.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4bbe8ef2 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sp.txt @@ -0,0 +1,232 @@ +Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives + +This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious +stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you +kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your +body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't +treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it. + +Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read +'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules +that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about +the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly +before starting anything. + +Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable, +and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear +understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of +ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided. +Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following: + + 1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at + most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for + bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with + every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.) + + 2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale + pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of + water before weighing the next ingredient. + + 3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the + workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open + containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage + or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and + replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment. + + 4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER + TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding + another ingredient. + + 5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable + structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should + also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass + also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an + accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the + top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some + mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in + a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform. + In all cases, point the open end of the container away from + yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any + stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid + sparks or static. + + Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on + a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them + across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time. + + 6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the + material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the + contents down. + + 7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire + hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be + stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an + accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous, + they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably + locked away. + + 8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly + cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber + or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture + caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the + friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any + procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS. + + 9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES. + Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure + lenses and frames are not flammable. + + 10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust + form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there. + They may cause serious illnesses later on in life. + + 11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals. + + 12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron. + + 13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system. + + 14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working. + + 15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they + produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot + lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode + dust floating in the air. + + 16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one. + + 17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher, + hose, etc.) + + 18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or + put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle + than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can. + This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have + been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again, + please do not use metal in any circumstance. + + 19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. + Some information will be included in each file, but look for + whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once + thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff. + + 20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't + forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE. + + 21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a + half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload + or reuse any dud. + + 22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are + doing and leave until it settles. + + 23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything. + + 24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates, + Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't + drop them, or even handle them roughly. + +These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one +example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the +good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got +out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the +green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man +got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor +we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these +chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable +of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take +this stuff lightly. + +We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite +dangerous. Please read the following information carefully. + + +Sodium Azide - NaN + 3 +This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it +gently. + +Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO ) + 3 2 +This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will +absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints +and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in +your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless +with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one +afternoon. + +Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO + 4 3 +Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large +quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this +material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it +decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use +it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off +with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here. + +Potassium Nitrate - KNO + 3 +Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals. +It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is, +when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture +burn. + +Potassium Potassium + Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen + + 2KNO ---> 2KNO + O + 3 2 2 + + + +Potassium Chlorate - KClO + 3 +A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only +yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic +mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn +more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be +useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like. +Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium +Chlorate is also poisonous. + +Potassium Potassium + Chlorate Chloride Oxygen + + 2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O + 3 2 + + +Aluminum Dust + +Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a +solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can +seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any +clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an +open flame. + +Zinc Dust + +Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still +worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled. + +Lampblack + +This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other +manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures +than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they +stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you +should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using +this. + +Sulfur + +A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy +this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these +will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself. + +Potassium Permanganate + +An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here. +Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less +effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just +the \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sparkler.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sparkler.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ce18b931 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sparkler.txt @@ -0,0 +1,18 @@ +Sparkler Bomb + +Materials: + + * 12-20 sparklers + * duct tape + +Procedure: + + * Bunch sparlers together so that all ends are even, except one sticking + out of the middle of the pack about 2". + * Cover the whole thing with a lot of duct tape, leaving the middle + sparkler bare as a fuse. + * After lighting the end sparkler, it burns to the others, all igniting + at the same time, causing a decent explosion. + +It really works better than it sounds. Maybe you already know about it, but +we'd just thought we'd check. diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sparklers.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sparklers.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4b8fe630 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sparklers.txt @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ + + + Sparkler Bomb + + BY + HeD-w0uNd + + +Items needed: +===== ======= +1. Some Sparklers (green work best) +2. Duct Tape or Black Plastic Electrician's Tape (latter is better) +3. Lighter, Matches (How the fuck do you think you're gonna light it) + +Procedure: +========== +1. Group some sparklers together. Extend one out to act as a fuse: + + ------------===================== + ------------===================== + ------------===================== + ------------===================== + +2. Wrap the assembly TIGHT with the tape. Leave some of the "fuse" + exposed. The tighter you wrap it, the louder the blast. + + +3. Light the fuse and run like hell. After a small delay, ignition + will result in a bright flash, loud report, and large amounts + of fucking HOT, flaming sparklers to be scattered in all directions. + + + + HAVE FUN! (And don't blow off you're fucking fingers) + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spi-abf1.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spi-abf1.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d3a43114 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spi-abf1.txt @@ -0,0 +1,71 @@ + + Software Pirates Incoporated + + + "PyroTechny - The Art Of Making Fireworx! Vol.#1" + + Well, this month I decide to write a file like everybody else. Since +I don't know much about anarchy, I can write about what I do know. It's not +REAL anarchy but it's pretty interesting. And that's how to build fireworx +making different effects... + + To basically start off, the three principle materials employed in this +art are sulpher, charcoal, and saltpetre combined with the fillings of copper, +zinc or steel. Or you could also combine those same three materails with +camphor or resin. Either worx fine and is used adjust the combustion duration, +and the effects of the firework. This next part is basically how to build +rockets.... + +1. How To Build A Plain Rocket... + + The casing of the rocket should be made of stout catridge paper, + rolled on a rod whose thickness should be equal to the desired diameter of +the bore. The rod should be slightly tapering, to allow of it's easy removal +after the case is rolled and pasted. The narrower end of the casse is choked; +that means you should indent a neck in it. + The compostion as stated above should then be rammed tightly into +the casing which is is supported by a closely fitting mould of during this +operation. You should then finidh it off with a small charge of gunpowder +to explode when the rocket goes out. The top of the casing should then be +stopped with clay and a conical cap fastened on. (this is to decrease the +resistance of air while it is in flight.). The bottom or choked end of casing +should be finished with priming and finergain sand paper(touchpaper). +The whole casing should then be attached to the end of a willow stick. Having +a long and straight stick is preferable cause it is this stick that directs +the course of the rocket in the air.... + +2. Composition For Rockets... + +For 2 ounce rockets: Mix 54 1/2 parts nitre [saltpetre], 18 parts sulpher, +and 27 1/4 of charcoal, all in fine grain powder. Sift through lawn. +4 ounce rockets: 64 parts nitre, 16 parts sulpher, and 20 parts charcoal. +For 8 ounce to 1 pound rockets: 64 parts nitre, 15 3/4 parts sulphur, and +21 1/2 partss charcoal. + +3. To charge rocket cases... + + In charging rocket cases, in order to increase the rapidity of it's +discharge, a wire is sometimes driven into the center of the charge, the +rammer being constructed with a small bore through it's length, to recieve +this wire when ramming the charge. This wire is withdrawn when the charge +is complete, and the space it has left is filled witha quick match, which +then sets fire to the entire charge at once. This central space is called +the "soul" of the rocket, and the adoption of this arangement is neccessary +for large rockets, especially those having heavy pots. + + + Well, hope that tfile made sense to you guys. Took me a while to +learn that myself when I started off. This tfile hasn't finished yet. +I will release one or two more next month on how to create various colors +and other awesome tricks that will make you the kid to hang with on +July 4th... + + + ACOUSTiK + [SPi.ACiD] + +-EOF;)- + + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spi-tg.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spi-tg.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3bc321ba --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spi-tg.txt @@ -0,0 +1,46 @@ + + Software Pirates Incorporated + + + "Tear Gas" + + If you've ever seen a mailman carrying a little red can on his belt +and said to yourself "Gee, what's that red thing on his belt?" Well, its an +irritant to save him from man's best friend; also know as tear gas or in this +case, oleoresin capsicum. Capsicum is the hot essence of red peppers. +Oleoresin is the process for extracting it. + To extract the capsium, grind up four ounces of red pepper seeds in a +blender or with a mortar and pestle. Red pepper seeds can be found at any +grocery store. The dry, ground seeds are then put into a coffee percolator +in which there is about 16 ozs. of alcohol, preferably with the water +distilled out. The seeds are then percolated for about a half hour. + The alcohol is then distilled off until there are only a couple of +tablespoons of red liquid left in the flask. The red liquid is then added to +a half pint of light mineral oil, bought at a drug store. + It can be sprayed from a nasal sprayer, this is a great little sprayer +since no one knows whats inside. It should be shaken before each use. +Just make sure that none of your friends gets the sniffles and borrows it +from you...lets just say he wont be talkin to you for a while. + Formaldehyde is another excellent repellent, and it can easily be +bought at any pharmacy, just tell the guy you're doing a school project +involving the preservation of mice. This stuff smells horrible, hurts the +eyes and nose, and upon exposure to air it vaporizes, make a (class)room +uninhabitable for hours. + It can be squirted from a water gun, nasal inhaler, or vaporized by +a bomb. If this shit gets on someones skin it would feel something like if +their skin was peeling off...what a mess. :) + + Comatose [SPi] + "Anarachy Columnist" + SysOp: PMSi + + I'd like to say sorry out there to all the people who read this +stuff. I'm currently in India and well... if you were there, I don't think +you'd be able to send T-files over to the US either! + + + + + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spook1.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spook1.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..69c8497a --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spook1.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4759 @@ + ÉÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ» + º º + º T H E S P O O K F I L E S º + º º + º VOLUME ONE º + º º + ÈÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍͼ + + Let's face it, folks, the world is going to hell in a hand basket and + we're all being fucked over by the fascist regimes that we live in. + The government, school, work, whatever...they're all out to get us + and make our life miserable. They expect us to be robots, soldiers. + They want us to follow orders, obey their commands, do what we're + told. Bend over and get fucked and LIKE IT! + + We're being savaged by a twisted society that is full of assholes who + think they know what's best for us. Well I say FUCK THEM! + + I decide what I want out of life! I decide what's best for me! Not + some lame-fuck loser in a suit with a bad haircut and a phoney smile. + + This handbook is for those of you who want to prepare for the day + when you must strike back against the assassins of our freedoms and + civil rights. If they think they're going to have an easy time + fucking us over, I got news for them. + + As a member of the grassy knoll marksman's society (only three + members) and as a rogue agent of the secret government and a 20th + level archmage of the Illuminati, I know whereof I speak. + + This book is for you. It was written by those who believe in the + importance of knowing how to fight tyranny. + + In this manual, you will know many useful things related to being a + Secret Agent of Anarchy. + + Copy it freely, but be careful of who sees it. They're watching. + + -The Spook- + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + This file is separated into sections: Funding techniques, Anarchy, + Phreaking, Drugs. Since everyone has a different way of printing out + files, I have added ANSI bars to seperate the articles. You should + place a hard page break where the double bars are. + + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ + ³ F U N D I N G T E C H N I Q U E S ³ + ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ + + Before you begin your career, you're going to need money. Here are + some tips on how to get some if you don't already have it. + + DISCLAIMER: I'd like to remind everyone that this in no way suggests + that I use these techniques. This is just information I've obtained + and am passing on. I'm already rich from my covert activities, so + these funding techniques are for emergencies only. + + Important note: If you get busted, the penalty is stiff so if you + want to enter the realm of fraud, do it knowing you're on your own. + + -The Spook- + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + S O D A M A C H I N E R I P - O F F + + Here is a way to rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores + and other places! + + Okay, first--on all vending machines there are always those round + almost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a piece of air + hardening clay (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it + into the lock real good! Then remove the clay carefully and put it + somewhere to dry! Make sure the clay is TOTALLY dry then go back in a + day or so and you will have a key to fit that lock put the key in and + push and turn and presto the machine will open allowing you to take + all the money! + + A good machine will get you between 2100 and 300 dollars depending + when it was last checked by the company. Best of all if someone sees + you just put the key on the ground and step on it and its powder! And + then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away! So that's + it and if anyone has any good schemes, write a file on them and add + to the Mystery Note collection. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + C O I N M A C H I N E F R A U D I + + Here's the equipment that you need access to in a fairly secluded + area: + + 1) A copy machine that is of fairly good quality. + + 2) A change machine that changes 1's and 5's to quarters. + + 3) A 1 or 5 dollar bill + + 4) A table paper cutter that cuts paper exactly straight. + + 5) A lot of courage! + + OK what you do is walk into the place and copy the face side of your + dollar. Put the dollar bill face down and in the exact middle of the + machine's window. The first time you do this, only make one copy, + because it might not work correctly. When you get your copied dollar + bill from the machine, check the toner and make sure that it is just + like the original. If its too dark or too light, then adjust the + copy machine accordingly. When you get a perfectly contrasted + dollar, take it over to the paper cutter and put the original dollar + over the paper dollar and slice the dollar out of the big piece of + paper. Now for the fun part. + + Make sure that there are no hidden cameras in the room watching you, + or you'll be caught for sure! + + Walk up to the change machine and casually slide the dollar bill into + the machine and push the carriage or whatever in. If the dollar + comes back out then take it, rip it in half and put it in your + pocket. Throw it away someplace else. But if the jingling joy of + quarters comes, you will be in the money! But when you do it, do it + in mass amounts, because if you do one a day, they'll probably post a + guard in there or something. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + C O I N M A C H I N E F R A U D I I + + + Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in + airports, laundromats or arcades that dispense change when you put in + your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you. + + 1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill + length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then + slide the tray in! + + 2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start + crumpling it up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should + have a very wrinkly surface. + + 3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left + side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure). + + 4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out + to the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should + happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks + everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill with the + notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done + it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up + getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little + practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of + money! + + !--------------------------------! + ! ! + ! (1) /-------\ (1) ! + ! ! ! ! + ! ! Pic. ! ! + ! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) ! + ! !! ! + !-----/ \-----------------------! + + \-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down + from (1) + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + C R E D I T C A R D F R A U D + + + [1] Finding a Credit Card Number. + + The easiest way to get Credit Card Numbers is to go to a trash bin of + a place that uses Credit Card Numbers. If the place doesn't bother + burning the papers, you can usually find hundreds and hundreds of + Numbers on a good day. If you work in a Gas station, you can get + millions of the things a day. + + If you want to nail some guy you know, and you can break into his + car. Most people will save their Credit Card Numbers and its + registration right in the glove compartment for records about their + gas. Just break into the car, grab one of those papers, and voila! + + A few warnings, many banks now have cameras set up to watch the + trash bins. You can either spray the camera with spray paint or cover + it with a sheet, but then just quickly grab some and run. You never + know if the cop will be watching that camera. Remember, the best way + to go Credit Card Number looking is to get with a friend who is in a + car, watching for other people.. Also, it is best to go late at + night, the later the better, the guards are usually so stupid that + they won't even bother watching. Most people that I know don't even + bother with banks trash-bins though. The only time it's good to do + that is if you're also trashing for hacking info. If you just need + some Credit Card Numbers then just find some good place that uses + Credit Card's and trash it.. + + There are other ways such as credit bureau's that you can get credit + card numbers as well as telephone numbers, and lots of other fun + information. However, as a whole, stay away from credit bureau's like + CBI and especially TRW. TRW has gotten extremely dangerous. If you + enter a false password, the the call is immediately traced. If you + decide to use credit bureaus that fine, but as whole, there is no + real need to. just go trashing for new Credit Card numbers, and you + real won't have anything to worry about. If you trash a place in + which the customers are rich, you usually won't have to worry about + the card being valid. + + A note--> Visa and Mastercard have changed over to a new type of + carbon. In other words when you tear the copies , the number on the + carbons gets split in half. (Thanks Bomb Jack). There are still ways + around this. Have a friend of yours that works in one of these + places just write down the numbers. A friend of mine works in a + place where they take all the Credit Card carbons, chuck them in one + barrel. he then takes them out to the trash.. (or does he??) + + Well, that just about covers methods of how to get Credit Card + Numbers. if you would like to try your luck with credit bureau's + then read the file, TRW information or other files which have to do + with credit bureaus. I am not going to go into detail about them. + + [2] Explanation of Credit Card Numbers + + You've got this garbage, but you don't know exactly what kind of card + it is or anything else. Well, to find out what kind of card it is + here is a brief summary of the number of digits and the information + you need to know to use the Credit Card's properly. + + Mastercard + Digits-16 + Expiration date-look for + something like 4/85 + Usually has an Interbank number + that is 4 digits long + Name of person + + Visa + Digits-13 + Expiration date - same form as + above + Name of person + + Visa Gold + Same as normal Visa but have 16 + digits + + American Express + Digits-15 + Expiration date - these + have beginning and ending + expiration dates that you have + to know like- 10/83-7/85 + Name of person + + American Express Gold + Digits-20 + Expiration date - same as normal + Name + Note-These cards have a 5000 + dollars in them at least so + look for them + + American Express Platinum + Digits-? + Expiration date - same ??? + Has a 1,000,000 dollar limit i + think. + + + Many times people will post numbers that will "check" the credit card + for the amount of money that you type in. However, there are many + problems with this. The major one is that when you call the number + and type in that amount, it is subtracted from the card. In other + words, if you have a card that has 500 $ in it and you "check" it for + 300 dollars and then try to use the card, there will only be 200 + dollars in the account so it won't work. Now another idea that has + been suggested is to have just a small amount entered, just to check + to see if the card is valid. This will work, but make sure you enter + something like 50$, since validation of cards is not done usually on + orders that are under 50 dollars. + + Here are some of the "voice validation numbers that I am talking + about. 1-800-842-1250.. Another one is 1-800-228-1111, when you get a + carrier, do #+5317007000220959+card number + the expiration date + + the amount of the purchase. The recording will tell you if it is + valid or not. However, there shouldn't even be a need to check on + them. As long as you get them from a somewhat rich place, and don't + use it for anything extravagant (A black Porsche, for instance), you + shouldn't have anything to worry about. + + + [3] Uses + + Ok, the part everybody's been waiting for. You have that stupid + number in your hand but how do you use it? There are many ways to + use the numbers and I'll go through as many as I can right here. + + An important thing to remember is - Never use a Credit Card Number + more that once. You can use the same Credit Card at the same time, + but don't use a Credit Card Number one month and then try to use it + again the next. The best time to use a Credit Card Numbers is at the + end of the month when the bills arrive. That means you have an + entire month to use the card. + + OK, now for the uses. There are two kinds of uses that you can u use + a Credit Card for. Number one is "for yourself". You can use the + Credit Card to add to your computer, your home, or whatever else you + want to add to. The other type of use is revenge. You can use the + Credit Card either to get back at the person who owns the Credit + Card, or get back at other people which will be explained further + into the tutorial. + + Mail order catalogs - Places that say that they will accept Credit + Card Number orders are great places to order from. However, a quick + inside tutorial is needed here. She is going to ask you for your + phone number to check you out. There are two ways to get around this. + Number 1 is to call from a pay phone in your town and wait until she + calls back. Wait about 15 minutes, if she doesn't call back by then, + she's not calling back. A note.. 50% of the time the lady will give + the number to shipping to validate. The guy will then call you the + next day. If you want to get around this tell the lady that you are + calling from out of state and won't be at this number tomorrow. + She'll probably fall for it. An extremely good way of using a pay + phone is to get the phone number of the Credit Card owner forwarded to + the phone booth. This can be a little difficult for the beginner + Credit Carder, though. + + The second way is to find a good loop in your state and call the + other end and give her the first end. This is the best way there is. + Remember though, if you tell her that you live in Connecticut, but the + loop you give her is in Pennsylvania, and she notices, you will be in + trouble. Continuing on this thought, you need an address to which to + send your new found goods. + + There are many different places to have the goods shipped to. + Remember, don't send it to your house!! Not very intelligent. + Because you're not going to send it to your house you must use a drop + zone. A drop zone is a house that's near one of your friend's house or + your house. The perfect drop zone has nobody living in it, and is + currently waiting for a buyer. Another perfect drop zone is a + neighbor who's going away to some place like England for a 3 month + vacation. The only problem with that is that the person might have + their mail held at the post office. However, U.P.S., which packages + are sent through, often doesn't listen, and just sends the sucker + anyway. + + If you want to Credit Card and you can't find a good drop zone, don't + send it to a friend's house, just send it to an old ladies home, + who's too lazy to go out and get her mail. Just swing by the house + every day and check and see if the package arrived. + + Okay, so you have your drop zone, you have a phone number to give the + "nice" lady, so now's the big moment. Give the place a call. Be + sure to sound as cool and collected as possible. If you hesitate a + lot and worry, the lady will become suspicious. Sound a little bit + annoyed at the lady, like you have better things to do, but be + polite. Then just order what you want, she will ask for the name of + the person, his Credit Card Number, his expiration date, and all the + other stuff I listed above. Don't be stupid and hesitate on the guys + name. It does not assure the lady that you are really John + Fredrickson or whoever. Remember, be cautious with what you buy. It is + possible to get hard drives, but they usually will check you out + more. If you want to get a joystick, but say, "what the hell, I might + as well go for a hard drive too..", buy the hard drive with one card + Number, and the joystick with another. That way, you'll at least get + the joystick. + + Computer Shows - A lot of Computer shows have telephone lines set up + so they can demonstrate their modems. What you do then is to walk + around until you find one of these places and say. + + "Excuse me, a friend of mine wants me to get me a 9600 baud modem and + a joysticks (more about the joystick later), but he can't get down to + the show. Can he call you and give you his credit card number. You + can then call him back and check him out" + + It usually takes a while to find a sucker that will do this but when + you do. Have one of your friends call the number while you stand and + talk with the guy. Chat it up with this guy. When he asks for the + number, give him the number of the pay phone. Your friend will then + be called back upon which he will reply "Yep, I ordered it." Voila! + You now have a 9600 baud modem and two joysticks. + + Important things to consider about this last method, if you do get + caught. Now I will explain why to get two joysticks, it doesn't have + to be two joysticks, it can be two microchips, it doesn't matter. If + you do get caught (it's never happened to anyone I know, but this is + a pre-caution), tell the cops that you were doing this since this guy + told you that he would give each of you a joystick with his credit + card number if you would go in. Say that he had no cash and couldn't + get into the show, and he left his credit card at home or something. + Remember, creativity in this situation may save the cat, not kill it. + Then, lead the cops outside and show them where you were supposed to + meet this guy and give it to him. He, obviously, won't be there so + you say, "Shit, he must have seen me with you and ran! I didn't know + I was doing anything wrong, he just wanted to get this modem really + badly but didn't have his credit card with him or any cash" Act + really stupid, because this really is a lame excuse. + + If you find a really stupid looking salesmen, especially the foreign + ones (they wouldn't believe that anything like this would ever + happen) this method will work extremely well. + + Destroying a person's credit - This is by far the easiest revenge + method of credit carding. Just call up one of those "voice + validation" or "credit card validation" numbers and type in the + Credit Card Number of a person that you hate, and then keep typing in + high amounts of money until all the money in his account has + disappeared. Then when he goes to buy something, all the money on his + Credit Card will have suddenly disappeared. + + + [4] Advanced Credit Carding + + Ok, you've come this far. "What's next?" you ask. Well, the more + advanced thing to do and the best thing to do if you are successful + is to get a real plastic Credit card. If you steal one, go wild + with it the first day, since the person will probably call in and + report the card missing after a while. Make sure you have a copy of + the person's signature, a fake id, under his name, or anything else + useful. If your signature looks totally different than the signature + of the person, you will get nailed. Things to remember: Don't + get caught!! Act older than you probably are. The older you are, the + better chance of success you will have. Again, act casual about it. + Biting your fingernails is not a good sign of a good customer. + Another thing to do is to stay away from big places. I do know of + people, (not personally, A friend of mine works there and at least 4 + people have been caught for doing this). Visit small stores and + small places. Sometimes you can take the stuff back and return it for + money. Don't use the Credit Cards at banks for cash unless you want + to get caught. + + Another great advanced method is to get your own fake Credit Card + card. These are the best. Have the card shipped to a drop zone or + house, and once you get it, go wild. Use it at all the places which + don't check out your credit rating (there are a few stupid places + that don't). + + You can also get fake Mervyn's cards, Sears card, or any other type + of money card if you work at it. Just be careful. Merchants are + supposed to detain illegal Credit Carders by peaceful methods. But if + a person is using a fake credit card, they're not going just say, + "Please come with me, unless you don't want to." If you're in a + small store, make a run for it. If you're in a big store, and the + clerk informs you that the card is invalid (If he thinks the + signature isn't right, he won't tell you, but if he watch to see if + he calls security) then just act huffy, grab your fake card angrily, + and walk out of the store in a huff. + + ADDITIONAL CARDING ADVICE + + Try not to fuck with well known computer companies. They're the ones + who have been around the block. Go for some unknown computer company + that might have a mailer at your local computer swapmeet. Secondly, + make your order as realistic as hell when you call. Ask about the + quality of what you are ordering, the value, when your package will + come, total price...tax, everything that comes in mind. Have your + info ready off the bat, if you stall, they won't take you seriously + and you'll never get your order. Like when they ask for your name, + don't go "uuhh...uhh...oh, Mark Lamedick" you have to know + everything straight and simple. Then tell Shipping that you are + currently moving right now, and you most likely wont be home in the + afternoons - mornings - early evenings. Last but not least, you's + better have your ass a good ass drop off point. + + What works best is when someone is on vacation or an abandoned house. + Write a note on the door that says something like: "Dear UPS, I'm + currently moving right now, and I probably won't be home in the + afternoons for quite some time. I will be home in the evenings + probably after 7 pm. Could you please leave the package on the + doorstep, and I will pick it up when I come home, or could you stop + by after 7pm (They wont cause they never deliver after 6) Thank you + very much. Jane Cockhound... Okay...now go that evening...hound the + place every fucking day during the 7 - 10 working days that the + package is supposed to come. Get the package, and do with it what + you want. Only order in large bulk around Christmas time (like + ordering four 200 dollar Walkmans) Any other times, just make a + bunch of small orders. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + A U T O M A T I C T E L L E R F R A U D + + Automatic Teller Fraud is not a particularly easy scam to pull off, + as it requires either advanced hacking techniques (TRW or banks) or + serious balls (trashing a private residence or outright breaking and + entering), but it can be well worth your while to the tune of $500 + (five hundred) a day. + + Laws that will be broken: Credit Fraud, Wire Fraud, Bank Fraud, Mail + Fraud, Theft Over $200, Forgery, and possibly a few others in the + course of setting the scheme up. + + The first step is to target your victim. The type person you are + looking for is rich. Very rich. + + Now, don't go trying to hit on J.P. Getty or Johnny Carson or someone + who carries a high name recognition. This will just get you into + trouble as everyone notices a famous person's name floating across + their desk. + + Instead look for someone who owns a chain of hog feed stores or + something discreet like that. For example, target a gentleman who is + quite active in the silver market, owning several mines in South + Africa. Not wanting this to be widely known, he will avoid publicity. + + Next step, take out a P.O. box in this person's name. + + Now comes the fun part, requiring some recon on your part. You need + to know some fairly serious details about this person's bank + dealings. + + 1) Find out what bank he deals with mainly. This isn't too + difficult as a quick run through his office trash will usually let + you find deposit carbons, withdrawal receipts, or *anything* that has + the bank name on it. + + 2) Find out the account number(s) that he has at the bank. This can + usually be found on the above-mentioned receipts. If not, you can + get them in TRW (easier said than done) or you can con them out of a + hassled bank teller over the phone (Use your imagination. Talk + slowly and understandingly and give plausible excuses ["I work for + his car dealership, we need to do a transfer into his account"].) + + 2a) [optional] If you can, find out if he has an ATM (Automatic + Teller) card. You don't need to know numbers or anything, just if a + card exists. This can also be ascertained over the phone if you + cajole properly. + + 3) Armed with this information, go into action. + + a) Obtain some nice (ivory quality) stationary. It doesn't have to + be engraved or anything, but a $5 or $10 investment to put a + letterhead with his initials or something on it couldn't hurt. But + the most important thing is that it look good. + + b) Type a nice letter to the bank notifying them of your address + change. Some banks have forms you have to fill out for that sort of + thing, so you need to check with the bank first (anonymously, of + course). You will have to have a good copy of his signature on hand + to sign all forms and letters (again, trash his office). + + c) Call the bank to verify the new address. + + d) IMMEDIATELY upon verifying the change of address, send a second + letter. If he already has an ATM card, request a second card with + the business name engraved in it be sent for company use. If he + doesn't have an ATM card, the letter should request one for account + number xxxxxx. Ask for two cards, one with the wife's name, to add + authenticity. + + e) Go to the bank and ask for a list of all ATM's on the + bank's network. Often the state has laws requiring *all* machines + take *all* cards, so you'll probably be in good shape. + + f) Await the arrival of your new card. The PIN (personal + identification number) is included when they send out a card. After + picking up the card, forget that you ever even *knew* where the p.o. + box was, and make sure you didn't leave fingerprints. + + g) Begin making the maximum daily withdrawal on the card (in most + cases $500/day), using a different machine each time. Since many of + these machines have cameras on them, wear a hat and jacket, or a ski + mask to be really paranoid. To cut the number of trips you have to + make in half, be at an ATM a few minutes before midnight. Make one + $500 withdrawal right before midnight, and another one right after. + This cuts down on the number of trips, but police or bank officials + may spot the pattern and start watching machines around midnight. + Use your own judgement. + + Conclusion: Before using the card, make sure that all fingerprints + are wiped from it. Usually the first hint you will have that they + have caught on to your scam is that the machine will keep the card. + Also, avoid using machines in your own town unless it is a big city + (Chicago, Milwaukee, Dallas, etc...). + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + F A K E I D S + + The object of this article is to teach one to change his or her + current driver's license to make one 21, without taking apart the + drivers license itself. This will be taught to you in a quick, + inexpensive, easy to understand process. The materials used are + laminated sheets (easily obtainable from a school supply store for + around a dollar to two dollars for a number of sheets), pair of good + scissors, and a copy machine. + + The first step in the process calls for the copy machine (a copy + machine at the supermarket works good). Make two copies of your + drivers license. Take one copy and search for a digit on one of the + copies that will change the current year on your license to one that + will change your age (21). Once you have found the digit on one copy + cut it out so just the digit is there (a square segment with a little + trim around the edges is a good cut). Then take the other copy and + cut out the current last digit of the year you were born in basically + the same shape as the last. Put the cut out digit under the copy that + you had cut out your current digit of the year you were born. Now + having a little trim around the cut out digit from the first copy + will assist you when lining it up under the second copy when you put + it in the copy machine. Now that you have the new digit from the + first copy sitting underneath but showing on the second copy place it + in the copy machine and make a copy so that you will have an original + of the new base part of the license. + + Now since most copy machines are black and white you will have to cut + away the states license on the top of the license (e.g. Illinois + License). Now place the new base of the license with the cut away + license name over the old base of the current license. The new base + might not match up like it should but line it up as a good as + possible. Now place a piece of the laminated sheet cut out to + configure the license on top of the new base. Cut away any overlaps + of laminated paper and iron over the license with Mom's good old + iron. + + Notes: This process has been proved to work. If you are the type of + person that looks very young then do not bother to make an ID. You + will just get caught and get into a lot of trouble. Also, be very + careful at well known bars and over 21 hang out spots. The employees + at these places tend to flash a flash light underneath the card to + see if it is transparent. It is supposed to be. With this process it + is a little hard to see through the ID so be careful with it if you + do go to a place such as this. If you are pulled over by the police + then take a corner of the license and rip. It will not affect your + original license though it maybe a little sticky but, that should not + be to big of a problem. If any bubbling occurs just iron over it and + let it sit for a while. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ + ³ A N A R C H Y ³ + ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ + + Anarchy is freedom. Unfortunatly, freedom doesn't really exist these + days so it's necessary to fight for it. Anarchy becomes the art of + fighting for rights, for justice, for a cause. It must be done well + or you will be captured and killed by the enemy, so be careful. + + Some of these articles are written by people with different views + than mine, but they offer expertise that is important to your + survival. I do not endorse attacking innocent citizens. They must be + educated and brought over to the cause. But you may have your own + agenda. + + Choose your path. Just remember, karma exists. + + -The Spook- + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + T E R R O R I S M + + Written by: Jonin Meka of The Black Hand Society + + Section One: The Essence of Terrorism + + Welcome! In the following text I will attempt to explain to you the + way of Anarchy and how to be an Anarchist. One major section of + Anarchy is terrorism. Terrorism is to me the best thing ever to grace + man's path. Personally I love terrorism because, well, I really hate + strangers. Sometimes I'll decide to blow someone's car or house or + even the person all together just because they don't look right. + + Terrorism defined as "mass-organized ruthlessness" and a terrorist is + defined as "one who rules by terror." Both of these descriptions are + fairly accurate but to me terrorism is the hatred of all good, + organization, love, and anything liked by normal morons who live in + our disgusting society we all call free! Therefore terrorism is the + destruction of society. I love that! To be a terrorist you must have + this attitude! + + Don't read any farther unless you are a terrorist. Well, now the we + all have the understanding of terrorism we can begin. Note: you don't + have to kill to be a terrorist. Just be sure you love love to cause + terror! + + Section Two: Simple Terrorism + + Before I write anymore I must tell you I'm writing this article + because I wish to spread terroristic ideals. Also I wish to tell you + that Black Hand Society rules. Well, on with it. The following are + some of my own little goodies that I like to do once in a while. This + article does not explain how to make destruction devices or any of + that kind of stuff. That will be covered by others. + + And finally one more thing; I find experimentation is best when + trying to terrorize someone or something. Here we go! + + [1] SHOPLIFTING + + Ahhh...my favorite. Here is the best and most economical way to + obtain anything you desire: Shoplifting! One note: this is highly + dangerous in these days of hidden cameras and microphones so be very + careful and if all else fails and you're caught but some stupid moron + of a "store-detective" just be sure to keep a cube of "potassium + chloride plastic explosives" with so you can light it while the moron + has you by the arm and is taking you wherever it is they take you + when your caught. Well on to some safety clauses. For one always be + silent while shoplifting as of the microphones (if any). Next always + look for two-way mirrors, black spots on any store walls, and most of + all people who stay in a store for more than an hour- They're Narcs ! + And now for some advanced techniques. One I find to be fun is to + stuff my jacket then go up to the register and then buy something + small ! That really confuses the people. Another trick is to have + your friend buy something while you talk to him and at the same time + have a goodie right in your own hand then just walk out of the store + still talking with your friend. One last thing- bagging goods with + stuff you already bought is stupid unless the store doesn't give + receipts but what the f--k is you're good enough! + + [2] ILLEGAL ENTRY + + Another of my favorites. What is there really to say about illegal + entry except for it is a great way to attract attention to a + neighborhood. I mean with all the cops that come around the next day. + Also this is a great way to obtain valuable goodies like electronic + equipment. One thing never do this in your own neighborhood because + you won't be able to use the goodies you obtain. + + Never break into a house with people in it if you are trying to + obtain goodies and also never break into a house with an alarm. + Always observe the area you're going to break into before entering + and look through the window next to the front door to see if they + have an alarm. There are several ways to break in: One is to lock + pick your way through but to the novice this may take time and years + of learning but one advantage is that it is real silent and + undetectable. Another way is to use the BB gun Ice pick method. First + bring your BB gun (pistol preferable) and shoot a small hole next to + the lock. Then use the Ice pick or some other device to undo the lock + on the window. Never leave anything of yours at the scene. Catalog + numbers and the like are traced quickly. + + One final way to enter is to just crash the window with a stick. This + is really noisy but fun. If you want to do this the target window + should be next to another noisy place like a street or something. + Also don't spend to much time in the place after entering and most + off wear gloves and a black suit and always enter a night. One + more,thing I find it enjoyable to paint some type of remark or + sarcastic saying (real big of course) on one of the main walls. Such + an example would be a certain symbol like a pentagram or a saying + like "fuck off" (simple but suggestive) or to be creative "you have + bad taste in panties and curtains" or my favorite "pigs have little + dicks." Most of all be creative when signing you're little messages + usually I sign them by putting "You're worst dream" and "love, John". + You may find it wasteful to write such messages but personally I + think terrorism should be funny, sarcastic, and confusing. Two more + things: try not to leave any trace of yourself such as articles of + your clothing or even your blood (you might cut yourself if you break + the window). And if you consider yourself a common thief, DON'T! You + are an Anarchist and a Terrorist! + + [3] ASSORTED FUN + + Here are other simple things you might like to do: + + A) Enter a place with people in it and sneak up them and then totally + surprise the fuck out of them while they're sleeping. You might do + this by screaming and hollering at the foot of their bed or by + setting their bedroom curtain on fire and then scream and holler at + the foot of their bed. Scream "Get out the house! There's a fucking + fire!" Just be sure these people don't have gunes and you have a + quick exit route. One way to be sure of this is case their house + ahead of time. If you find a gun near the bed, unload it or fuck up + the firing pin so it can't be fired. That way you have the drop on + them. In any event, this one is dangerous. + + If the husband is away on business, you might decide to pretend to be + the husband and molest the wife while she's sleeping. Think of the + possibilities. Pretending to be the husband is my favorite + because....well I'm horny. I start off by gently massaging the + women's breast and then taking my other hand and venturing into + beaver land ! + + Another thing I find enjoyable is if the the women is alone in the + house I do the above but when she wakes up I simply knock her out + with the stick I used to break in with. If you plan to do this be + sure that as soon as she opens her eyes you give her a swift blow to + the head. Don't wait for her to scream for God's sake! Better yet, if + you have some, put a LIGHT dose of cloroform on a rag and make her + breath it. As soon as she passes out, take it away as it can kill + her. Another means of subduing a woman is fear. Pint a gun or knife + at her head while stuffing a rag in her mouth and make her submit. A + good method is to handcuff them before they wake up so they can't + fight you too easily. + + After you have her subdued, fuck her to your heart's content. One more + thing if you're really horny I suggest you tie her up and then wait + for her to wake. Put a ball gag in her mouth, or improvise with a + rubber ball and some duct tape. + + Tie her with her legs spread for maximum access. If you're into anal + sex, tie her face down. Just be sure she doesn't get a good look at + your face. Wear a stocking or pantyhose on your head or a ski mask. + + Oh, and be sure to practice safe sex. Heh heh... + + Note: I do not consider this rape! It is not! It is terrorist tension + relief. Also it was done under pleasant circumstances. + + B) Letting the air out of people's car tires has always been fun but + I prefer to blow the tires up with impact explosives better. Also I + recommend blowing up the whole car. This is not only fun but it makes + great reading light. May I also suggest you do the above before you + read the rest of the manual. That way after you blow the car up you + can sit next to a great reading light and read some more of this + manual while the car burns. And finally one more thing- I love to + watch the people scurrying trying to put the car out. I mean if they + had any brains they would not it is impossible especially if you put + a buck of Napalm in their front seat. Also I suggest you paint the + ground surrounding the car with impact explosives. That way when the + car blows up (or just starts on fire) as soon as the people run to + the car and watch it burn they'll step on the dried explosives and + blow themselves up. Note: This is really cruel but what the hell! + You're a terrorist! + + C) Lastly, suggest you...well fuck I'll let you create your own + little goodies for you to do. I've given you a start now go out and + experiment! Note: I have lots more but I don't want to give away all + my secrets. + + Section Three: Destruction (and death as a result) + + Many of you I suspect don't want to become murderers so I suggest you + don't read any further. It takes a great hatred to kill a human being + and I highly recommend you don't do it. Not only is it really evil + but you will have severe guilt trips and may even commit suicide as a + result. Personally I don't care anymore and could give a fuck about + everything, but occasionally I do regret all the things I've done. + Please don't read the rest of the artical unless for entertainment + purposes otherwise welcome to the world of Hell. (ha ha ha!) + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + A S S A S S I N A T I O N T E C H N I Q U E S + + Preface + ------- + If you do indeed take the information provided in this article + seriously enough to do it, please forget where you read it. + + Poisons: + -------- + The first and probably least known way to maim(such a nice word) + someone is through the use of various herbal extracts..(no I don't + mean Sinsemella) + + Diffenbachia (dumbcane) + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + Take 2-4 of the leaves and boil them in water (don't inhale the + fumes) When the water becomes a greenish color, take the leaves and + throw them away..Now take the liquid and add it to the victims + drink,food etc..The victims voice goes kaput. + + Oleander. + =-=-=-=-= + Take a twig of this bush and grind it into a fine powder..Place the + powder in the salt shaker,or sub-stitute it for any other type of + seasoning...Causes death within 3-4 hours...sometimes quicker + + Poison Oak/Ivy. + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + Take the leaves and do the above process..Or boil the leaves and when + the water turns brownish/green pour it out into a vial...Add a few + drops to the victims beverage.. It tends to destroy the victims vocal + cords... + + Systemic roses. + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + Take a rose bush and soak the ground around it with a very poisonous + fertilizer..In the days following the roses leaves,stems,etc will + become highly deadly..When the victim gets scratched by it..He/she + dies.. + + Poisons Part 2 + -------------- + The second and more common poisons are that of deadly metals and + earthy extracts. + + Sodium Arsenide. + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- + This along with Lead Arsenide rank in the top ten of lethal + materials Sodium Arsenide can be acquired at a glass staining shop..It + is placed into the victims food,etc. + + Potassium Cyanide. + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- + This is chemical is contained in appleseeds..To get it you must grind + up about 12 oz of apple seeds ..The effect is close to radiation + poisoning...It kills within 6 hours + + + Curare. + =-=-=-= + This substance is basically a ba28rd poison..It is various poisons + combined into a lethal dosage..It kills within 45 minutes. + + Lead. + =-=-= + Although this material is very common it is also very deadly..Take + about 30-40 grams of lead shavings(dust) and put them in someone's + food.. It does wonders.... + + Mercury. + =-=-=-=- + Mercury is a highly deadly material that kills skin on contact...To + use most effectively,place about 20 grams wherever the victim might + place his hand or any other part of his body for that matter..Or + place it in his food supply...It to does wonders... + + Others (Unknown!) + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + Although it is impossible to list all of the deadly substances here I + will show how to make contact poison... + + (credit to Ima Hacker) take 3 no-fly pest strips (tm) place them in a + jar of turpentine overnight..In the morning scoop out the white/brown + gel at the bottom. + + it kills in 60 seconds..Count 'em + + (again credit must go to Ima Hacker) + + Highway Accidents??? + -------------------- + The following section describes various was to seriously harm the + occupant by destroying the victims car... + + Explosions + =-=-=-=-=- + Take a film canister filled with liquid drano and drop it into the + gas tank...Do this just before your target enters his car...When he's + driving down the freeway or any other part of the HTS his car will + suddenly become engulfed in flame. + + Carbon Monoxide (CO) + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- + Drill a small hole into the exhaust system of the victims car..From + it run a length of tubing into the passenger compartment..After 20 + minutes he will fall onto the floor and most probably die when he + hits something. + + Stuck Accelerator + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + Find the victim's throttle cable and cut it..now follow the piece + coming out of the manifold..Now supposing you found where it + intersects the valve...There should be a small spring there that + keeps the valve closed...Cut it...push the valve open....clean + up...When Mr. Victim starts his car the engine will race. when he + shifts he should fly out of control down the roadway..until + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + EFFECTIVE NECK-BREAKING TECHNIQUES + + *Crossneck* + + This method will only work if you are much taller (1 1/2 - 2 feet) + than your target, or the target is sitting down (guards, teachers, + etc.) + + Approach the target from the behind SLOWLY as not to startle, then + place your left arm around the neck, and the right arm across the + neck (over the left) and grab your upper-left arm with your right + arm. Move the right arm upward sharply, and the left arm left firmly + around the neck. Pop the neck out of the spinal cord, and separate + the head from the rest of the body. The neck should be quite + twistable now. Damage the spinal cord, so the victim has little/no + hope for survival. Don't even think about whipping out a knife. + + This method is for killing without leaving a single mark. + + *Throat demolition* + + When using this technique, be sure to rid your conscience of any + regrets while attempting this. You will be staring your victim eye- + to-eye, and you don't want to cower out. Your victim will have a + scared-shitless look of "Why me?" They will look so innocent, it + might make you chicken out. Check out "The Cypher's guide to the + elimination of the conscience" if you have these problems. It could + mean the difference between life and death... + + Creep up to your mark while they are leaning over (reading, loading + gun, etc.) Stare down at what they're doing by their RIGHT side, then + place the left arm around the neck from the underside. In other + words, extend the right arm under their chin, then reach back around + to the back of the head. Grab the neck tightly, place your shoulder + on their chest, flip them over onto the table or floor, then punch + them AS HARD AS YOU CAN right in the throat. + + I'm not sadistic (yeah, sure, you say,) and I am somewhat of an + animal lover, but a good way to practice this technique is with pigs. + Go down to any forestry project, and then find out where some of the + pigs are... This will not be too hand to do. Just look for severe + underbrush. Wait, and they will come. Ambush from behind, and the + pigs neck is yours. Im not sure if this kind of hunting is legal + (bare hands) but it is essential for proper exercises in the art of + the elimination of the conscience. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + EXPLOSIONS: Effective demolition. + + We will be using this brand of Pipe Bomb in most all of our + elimination exploits: + + One 1 foot length of pipe (threaded) + two caps for the ends of the pipe. + one baby-food jar + about a baby-food jar full worth of vinegar + baking soda + some gravel + + To construct the pipe bomb: + + 1. Cap one end of the pipe with a metal cap TIGHTLY! + 2. Fill the baby-food jar with vinegar, cover, AND WIPE CLEAN! + 3. Drop the baby-food jar into the pipe lightly as not to break, and + add some gravel. + 4. Pour baking soda to the rim into the pipe bomb. + 5. Cap the other end very tightly. + + Synopsis: + + Once you crack the pipe hard enough to break the baby food jar, it + will cause the baking soda to create such pressure, that it will + explode. The explosion is more than effective. Rumor has it that + when it was thrown into an old car, it blew the doors about ten feet + away, and the roof three feet into the air. When this device was + constructed by myself, I just stuck it under an old tree, and it was + removed. You have about five minutes to wait, so you might still have + time to acquire a quick alibi. + + USING THE PIPE/PRESSURE BOMB + + Someone you hate? Well, creep out of your house REAL LATE at night + (3-4:00) and walk up to their house. Crack it to start on the + driveway, and throw under the car. Run home, then read the police + reports. Once you have been better acquainted with device, it can be + used to help you out. Throw it under the stage of a play, or leave + it in the bathroom of your school, etc. + + MOLOTOV COCKTAILS IMPROVED + + Well, the original Molotov cocktail was used differently.. Its not + REALLY improved, but its better this way. Molotov created this + weapon in the Russian revolution (give them a taste of their own + medicine) and the formula was 50% gasoline, alcohol, and 50% oil. + With the oil, it sticks to what it hits. Much more effective... + + MODIFYING MOST SEMI-AUTOMATICS + + Whats this B.S. about spending $3000 for a full-auto kit? All we did + was file down the firing pin, and it worked almost perfectly. File + down the part by the springs that rubs against the tracks, so it is + free. This works best with a good-old M-16, or most HK rifles. + + SURVIVALIST PYROTECHNICS + + It is almost imperative for the modern-day snow camper to carry + around a bit of gasoline (I know, only the shitbaits do that, but the + wind gets pretty rough out there) with you. Once that much has been + done, you are ready for the Survivalist's bomb: in other files, the + GENERIC BOMB. This bomb is infamous among bulletin boards, but + because it suits this method better, I call it the survivalist's bomb. + + 1 jar, pipe, etc. few drops of gasoline. a few drops of potassium + permanganate found in most all snakebite kits + + I. Put in a few drops of gas into the jar, pipe, etc... and coat + the surface inside. + + II. Once the gas has evaporated, put in a few drops of Pot. + Permangate, and close the jar shut. + + Throw the jar at your target, or the truck under you, or into the + crowd at the mardi-gras and be far away. This bomb will pack 1/2 + stick of standard GCM dynamite. Handy, indeed. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + Miscellaneous Nasties + By: Lex Luthor + + + FIREBOMBS + + Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel + soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original + Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part + gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it + splatters on. + + Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have + been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline. + + + NAPALM + + About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, + like jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. + + Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is + either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do. + + The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual + way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two- + quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and + the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there + is no flame. + + Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and + allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess + is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to + fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its + heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double + boiler. + + + MATCH HEAD BOMB + + Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a + devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse + + A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to + prevent detonation by contact with the metal. + + Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for + one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away + from the TV. + + + FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB + + A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. + It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. + The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use + this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse + has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it + breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + P Y R O M A N I A C T E C H N I Q U E S + + + IMPACT GRENADES + + 1] MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSE-HOLD AMMONIA + 2] WAIT OVERNIGHT + 3] POUR OFF THE LIQUID + 4] LET THE 'MUD' ON THE BOTTOM DRY... (IT'S LIKE CONCRETE) + 5] THROW IT AT SOMETHING!!! + + SMOKE BOMBS + + 1] MIX : 3 PARTS SUGAR TO 6 PARTS EPSON SALTS + 2] PUT IT IN A TINCAN (COFFEE CAN WILL DO) + 3] HEAT IT OVER LOW FLAME (LIKE A CIGARETTE LIGHTER) + 4] LET GEL AND HARDEN + 5] PUT A MATCH IN AS A FUSE. + 6] LIGHT IT AND RUN LIKE HELL........(4 POUNDS OF THE STUFF WILL FILL + A CITY + BLOCK WITH THICK WHITE SMOKE + + MEDIUM-GRADE EXPLOSIVES + + 1] MIX : 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE + 1 PART VASELINE + 2] TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE. + + CAR BOMB + + 1] PUT LIQUID DRANO INTO A PRESCRIPTION BOTTLE (THE SMALL BROWN PILL + BOTTLES) + 2] CLOSE THE LID AND POP IT INTO THE GAS TANK (OR A BOTTLE OF + GASOLINE IF YOU + + WANT TO MAKE A SIMPLE TIME-BOMB) + 3] WAIT 5 MINUTES..... + 4] RUN LIKE HELL + + PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES + + 1] MIX : 2 PARTS VASELINE 1 PART GASOLINE + 2] IGNITE IT WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + L O C K P I C K I N G + + + SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE + JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD + BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED + LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE UNLUCKY. IF + YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK ELSEWHERE. + + THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE "LOCK-IN-KNOB" + TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT + DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING THE OTHER FORMS OF + ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT + + FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM + TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. + IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE. + IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER (YOU + CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.) + + THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE SHOULD + BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND THE LONG END + OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.) IT SHOULD LOOK + SOMETHING LIKE THIS: + + #1 + \\ + \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\s\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE + \\\ THAT WAS ALREADY + \\\ HERE.) + \\\ + \\\ + \\\ + + NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END (#1) + UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST YOUR TOOL + OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE IN AND OUT + SMOOTHLY. + + NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR + IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE + ABOVE THE OTHER ? LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR + GONNA OPEN IT. + + IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE + INTERIOR OF A LOCK: + + XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K + # # # # # # | E + # # # # | Y + * * | sH + * * * * * * | O + | L + | E + XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| + + #= UPPER TUMLER PIN + *= LOWER TUMLER PIN + X= CYLINDER WALL + + (THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING) + + THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPAcE BETWEEN THE + UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW, IF + YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDENCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ? THAT IS + WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. + + INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL KEEP + THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE BACK OF + THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH..... + THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR + WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL PROBABLY + TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT YOU WILL + QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE. + + THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE. IF + YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER WAYS, LET + THE SYSOP KNOW. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + How to Make a Land mine + by + Merlin and Black knight + + First you need to get a push button switch... take the wires of it + and connect one to a 9 volt battery connector and the other to a + solar igniter (if you can't get that then use a thin piece of stereo + wire). + + Connect the other wire of the 9 volt connector to to the other end of + the solar igniter (stereo wire). + + Now... connect the end of a fuse (of a pipe bomb, M80, whatever has a + fuse) to the solar igniter... + + Dig a hole... not to deep but enough to cover all the materials. + Think about what direction your enemy will coming from and plant the + switch, but leave the button visible (not to visible). Plant the + explosive about 3 feet from the switch because there will be a delay + in the explosion. And when your enemy steps on it... + B O O M ! ! ! + ------------------- + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + H I G H W A Y R A D A R J A M M I N G + + Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will arm + themselves with an expensive radar detector. However this device + will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal + is not present until the cop has you car in his sights and pull the + trigger. Then it is too late to slow down. + + A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal + of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local + cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when your car + approached him. It is surprisingly easy to make a low power radar + transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn diode will + generate microwaves when supplied with 5 to 10 vdc and enclosed in + the correct size cavity (resonator). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can + be used to get this voltage from a car's system. However the correct + construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good + microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on + the K band at 22 ghz. or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. + + Most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over + automatic doors in supermarkets, etc.) contain a Gunn type + transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 milliwatts + at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you can't + get one locally write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Mass. + and ask for info on "Gunnplexers" for ham radio use. When you get + the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a + weatherproof enclosure behind the plastic grille. Switch on the + power when on the open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the + side of behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. + + An interesting phenomena you will notice is that drivers in front of + you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach + large metal signs or bridges. Your signal is bouncing off these + objects and triggering their detectors. + Have fun... Cryton + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + FIREWORKS + + OK, SO YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN FIREWORKS? NOTE: ALL + THE AMOUNTS GIVEN IN THESE DIRECTIONS ARE IN PARTS BY WEIGHT. DO NOT + USE PARTS BY VOLUME (LIKE TEASPOONS OR SOMETHING), OR ELSE YOU COULD + HAVE A SERIOUS PROBLEM. ALWAYS MIX THESE CHEMICALS BY SHAKING THEM ON + A SHEET OF PAPER OR SOMETHING. IF YOU GRIND THEM, STIR THEM, ETC. + THEY COULD EXPLODE IN YOUR FACE!(AFTER ALL, I DON'T WANT YOU TO KILL + YOURSELF WHILE DOING THIS!) + + FUSE: + + 1. DISSOLVE AS MUCH POTASSIUM NITRATE AS YOU CAN IN ABOUT A PINT OF + WATER AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. + + 2. SOAK 5-6 INCH PIECES OF STRING OR PAPER IN THIS SOLUTION AND LET + THEM DRY. + + 3. LIGHT THE FIREWORKS WITH THE STRING OR A PIECE OF PAPER ROLLED + INTO A TIGHT TUBE. + + FLASH POWDER: + + 1. MIX: 1 PARTS POWDERED MAGNESIUM METAL and 4 PARTS POWDERED POTASSIUM + NITRATE. + + 2. IGNITE WITH A VERY LONG FUSE. THIS STUFF EXPLODES WITH A HUGE + WHITE FLASH, AND MAY BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO SCREW UP YOUR EYES IF YOU + LOOK STRAIGHT AT IT. + + "SNAKES": + + 1. MIX: 5 PARTS POTASSIUM NITRATE + 10 PARTS POTASSIUM DICHROMATE + 5 PARTS REGULAR SUGAR + + 2. MIX THESE POWDERS WITH ENOUGH MUCILAGE OF ACACIA (THAT GOOEY + BROWN GLUE YOU CAN GET AT A DRUGSTORE) SO THAT YOU CAN MOLD THEM INTO + CONES ABOUT 1/2 AN INCH HIGH. + + 3. WHEN DRY, LIGHT THE TIPS OF THE CONES WITH A MATCH. + + FOUNTAIN #1: + + 1. MIX: 1 PART POWDERED MAGNESIUM METAL + 1 PART POWDERED IRON METAL + 1 PART POWDERED ZINC METAL + 1 PART ANTIMONY SULFIDE + 1 PART POWDERED CHARCOAL + 1 PART POWDERED SULFUR + 1 PART LYCOPODIUM POWDER + 1 PART POWDERED SUGAR + 1 PART POTASSIUM NITRATE + + 2. COAT A CARDBOARD TUBE AND PLUG THE BOTTOM WITH PLASTER OF PARIS + (THIS IS SO IT WON'T BURN). + + 3. FILL THE TUBE WITH THE MIXTURE, INSERT A FUSE, AND LIGHT IT. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + NASTY TRAPS + + Traps are the vital part of any assassin's strategy. So if you are + going to be a dealer of death you must learn the art of trap + building.. + + All traps don't have to kill, the following traps are made to wound + the victim and make the kill easier... + + Trap #1-Foot trap + ----------------- + You will need the following items: + + 1) 8-10 bungi sticks about 7 inches long each. [Note]: Bungi sticks + are just sticks that have one end sharpened to a point. I you want + to get fancy 1-1/2 inch dowel works great! + + 2) A shovel + + 3) A victim + + First off pick a spot where the victim will walk that is soft ground + or dirt. Then proceed to dig a hole about 2-3 feet deep and about 2 + feet in diameter. Once the hole is dug take the bungi sticks and line + the hole with them so that they are pointing downward at an angle + like this: + + hole wall--> !\ <--bungi stick--> /! <--hole wall + !\ /! + !---------------------! + + Cover the hole to match the ground cover (use twigs and leaves with + dirt or whatever matches on top) and find a nice hiding spot. When + the victim steps into the hole the stakes will do nothing to him but + maybe snag his pants, but when he tries to remove his foot he will be + going against the stake and they will drive into his ankle... + + [P.S.]-For a nice touch you could also put the stakes on the hole + floor... + + Trap #2-Light Bulb Trap + ----------------------- + To make this trap work you must have access inside the victim's house + and it helps if you don't like them very much. To start get a bottle + of ammonia, and put some in a sealable container that it won't eat + through. Next, acquire a medical syringe. Go to the house of the + victim and get into a room by yourself. Go to the nearest lamp or + light fixture that has a light bulb in it and remove the light bulb. + Make sure the lamp or socket is turned OFF. + + Fill the syringe with the ammonia and make a small puncture in the + light bulb. It may sound impossible but it's actually pretty easy. + Once you have the ammonia touching the filament in the light bulb + stop injecting and replace the bulb. Leave the room and try and stay + out of there until the light is turned on. When it is turned on the + red hot filament and the ammonia do all sorts of fun stuff!!.... + + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + BLASTING GELIGNITE + + To try and tell you about the potency and danger of this stuff, I + want you to know that one time some friends of mine and I (Disk + Slasher, Romper Stomper) were very careful and made some of this + stuff. After it was made, we were scared as shit of it and carried it + on a ten foot pole. (literally!) Near to my house there is a club + that has a Coke machine outside. So we went over there at about 3 in + the morning and stuck this stuff all over the Coke Machine and set it + off. The whole Coke Machine damn near split in two (well anyway the + front door was blown off) and the Cokes and money came spilling out + We helped ourselves to both and got the hell out of there which was + good because the police and fire department were there in about 15 + minutes because all the people around that the blast had waken up had + called them because they thought there was a fire or something. So if + you make this stuff (Which we don't endorse you doing) BE CAREFUL! + + The Recipe: + + Note: None of these items are too hard to get but you damn well + better not think that this stuff is not powerful because of that. if + you think that, you had better get prepared to lose part of your + body. + + Further Note: A step marked with a star '*' should be done behind a + blast shield of some kind. We used a big sheet of plexiglas. + + Stuff you need + + 1) 50 parts water + + 2) 20 parts sugar (provides oxygen) + + 3) 1 part baking soda 4) 5 parts Corn Flakes (I'm not kidding, + this is VITAL as a stabilizing agent) + + 5) 30 parts Charcoal (Very finely ground Fish tank charcoal- No + Barbecue charcoal) + + 6) 10 parts Sulphur (You can sometimes get this at grocery stores + [especially Kroger] in the drug section) + + 7) 30 parts Saltpetre (You can also get this at grocery stores + sometimes. Kroger is the only one I know of but there might be others. + get it in the drug section.) + + 8) A Jar of Vaseline + + The Actions... + + 1) Get a deep metal pan to cook over the stove on and put the water + in it. Stir in the sugar until it all dissolves. if you can't get all + of the sugar to dissolve, add more water until all of the sugar has + dissolved. Now stir in the baking soda until it dissolves. if you + can't get all of the baking soda to dissolve, don't worry about it, + just leave it. + + 2) Heat the pan over a medium flame (You don't need to stir) until it + begins to boil. Now stir in the corn flakes until they are all in + water and the whole thing begins to look like hot breakfast cereal. + let the mixture sit on the burner until it begins to boil again. + (This could be a long time or it could be a very short time depending + on the water and the elevation, etc.) + + 3) As soon as the mixture begins to boil, stir it constantly until it + is a sludgy mass that is sort of half solid and half liquid. + + 4) Now dump this mixture out onto a greased cookie pan (so it doesn't + stick) It should be just solid enough to almost stay in a lump. Now + mix in the Charcoal and the Sulphur. If it gets really gritty, don't + worry. Just mix it together as well as you can. Now stick in the oven + at 150 degrees. Make sure that is 150 degrees. if it is much higher, + this stuff will burn up in your oven and take your whole house with + it. Constantly monitor the pan until all of the sludge is baked dry + and has no wetness in it at all. + + * 5) Get the pan out of the oven when it is ready and put it in the + refrigerator or let it cool down by itself (The refrigerator is + faster). Now take it out of the pan and pound it into dust. This + might need to be done behind a blast shield because even though I + have heard that it can't blow up or burn up if it is cool at this + stage, When I pounded up my batch I made some sparks and so I got a + blast shield just in case. + + * 6) When you have the dust. put it in a tupperware or something like + that and put it, the saltpetre, and the vaseline in the fridge until + they are all cold. This definitely needs to be done behind a blast + shield as this is the part where it gets very unstable. Get a cooler + and fill it with ice and put an open container in the ice but don't + let ice get in the container. Mix all of the dust and saltpetre + together. Get a big glob of vaseline and get it nice and soft and + quickly mix as much of the dust into it as you can. If the mixture + get above about 35 degrees Celcius, it will blow up so try to not + keep it in your hands too long (I definitely advise wearing gloves to + keep your hands from heating the mixture.) When you have mixed all of + the dust possible into the lump of vaseline, drop it into the + container in the cooler and get some more vaseline and make a new + lump. When all of the dust is gone, close the container and put it in + the fridge. When you want it to blow up (And it will blow up big!) + just get it hot. We did both by sticking firecrackers in it and + lighting them and running like hell (Very Dangerous!) and by model + rocket ignition system model rocket igniters which we stuck in the + stuff. + + + If you are crazy and stupid enough to do this, then watch out! it is + a good way to hurt yourself. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + + Car Fun + + BY: System Crusher + + Ok you real sick bastards so your so called friend screwed you right + so do we get mad??? Of course not JUST EVEN!! Now say he just got a + car or has a good one as it is gee let's see what fun we can have + with it: + + FLAME THROWER + ============= + + Take a cup of gas and poor it down the exhaust pipe when the dude + starts it **POOF** he has a 30 foot flame thrower Now that doesn't do + anything that's just to make the guy shit in his pants. + + PRETTY DESIGNS + ============== + + Ok now take his windshield wiper and attach some tacks to it Gee what + pretty designs they leave on the car window when he turns then on. + lets see: + + + POTATO TRICK + ============ + + Just take your average potato and stuff it in someone's exhaust + pipe.The car wont start if there somewhere else they will have to get + it towed.If there stupid they will have to ask a mechanic Ok they + will probably have to go to a mechanic and ask to get it out boy wont + they ever look stupid! and cost them $$$$$ or a pain in the ass to do + it themselves.. + + Nitro triodide + ============== + + I saw a message on this its the ammonia and iodine mixture well you + take the shit and smear it on the tire treads and when he pulls out + **BOOM**. + + -=>System Crusher<=- + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + CHEMICAL IGNITERS FROM THE BOOK: + + THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON + + CHEMICAL DELAY IGNITERS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN POPULAR WITH THE MORE + VERSATILE MILITANTS. THE MOST COMMON SUCH IGNITER IS THE SULFURIC + ACID-POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND SUGAR GOODY. + + THE IGNITER IS A MIXTURE OF HALF POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND HALF + GRANULATED SUGAR. IT BURSTS INTO FLAME WITH THE APPLICATION OF A DROP + OF SULFURIC ACID. + + THE IDEA IS TO PUT SOME OF THE MIXTURE INTO A GLASS OR PLASTIC TUBE + AND THEN STUFF IN SOME COTTON, OR PAPER. SOME ACID IS THEN PUT INTO + THE TUBE WITH A MEDICINE DROPPER, BOUGHT AT A DRUG OR HOBBY STORE. + + THE ACID IS SUPPOSED TO SEEP SLOWLY THROUGH THE BARRIER AND FINALLY + IGNITE THE MIXTURE. THE BAD THING ABOUT THIS SYSTEM IS THAT IT OFTEN + DOESN'T WORK OR IT WORKS TOO FAST. + + WHEN SULFURIC ACID EATS THROUGH VEGETABLE MATTER THERE IS A REACTION + OF GREAT HEAT. THIS IS OFTEN ENOUGH TO BREAK THE GLASS TUBINGOR MELT + A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW AND CAN STOP THE ACTION RIGHT THERE. + + IF THE GLASS TUBING HOLDS, THE ACID STILL LOSES ITS POTENCY AS IT + REACTS WITH THE VEGETABLE MATTER AND THAT WHICH REACHES THE MIXTURE + MAY BE TOO WEAK. + + THE WORST THING THAT CAN HAPPEN, HOWEVER, IS THAT IT WILL WORK TOO + FAST. THE ACID CAN EAT THROUGH THE BARRIER IN SECONDS INSTEAD OF THE + MINUTES YOU THINK YOU HAVE. + + THIS COULD BE DISASTROUS IF YOU LOITERED IN THE AREA FOR A MINUTE TO + AVOID LOOKING SUSPICIOUS. IF YOU ARMED THE DEVICE BEFORE GOING INTO + THE TARGET AREA, YOU MIGHT NOT EVEN GET THERE. + + TO AVOID SUCH HANGUPS YOU SHOULD USE A NON-REACTIVE BARRIER SUCH AS + ASBESTOS FIBERS, BOUGHT FROM ANY BUILDING SUPPLY STORE. THE ACID WILL + SEEP THROUGH THE ASBESTOS FIBERS, MAKING HEAT AND WITH-OUT LOSING ITS + POTENCY. AND SINCE IT DOESN'T EAT THE ASBESTOS, IT CAN BE TIMED WITH + MUCH MORE CERTAINTY, WHICH MAKES IT SAFER AND MORE SURE. + + POWDERED HIGHWAY6 FLARE IGNITER CAN BE SUBSTITUTED FOR THE POTASSIUM + CHLORATE-SUGAR MIXTURE. IT IS OVER HALF POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND IS + SIMPLER. IN FACT, IF THE PLASTIC STRAW IS PUSHED OVER A FUSE COATED + WITH FLARE IGNITER, THE FUSE NEEDS NO OTHER IGNITE R. + + ANOTHER CHEMICAL IGNITION DEVICE USES GLYCERINE TO REACT WITH + POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS A RELATIVELY STABLE + OXYGENATOR AND CAN EASILY BE BOUGHT AT THE DRUG STORE. IT IS ALSO + USED FOR STAINING MICROSCOPE SPECIMENS, DISINFECTING FISH TANKS. + + THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS GROUND TO A POWDER AND MIXED WITH THE + SAME AMOUNT OF FUSE POWDER AND MIXED WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF FUSE + POWDER OR THE HIGHWAY FLARE IGNITER. COTTON CAN BE USED AS A BARRIER + AS IT DOESN'T REACT WITH GLYCERINE. + + AT LEAST AN INCH OF GLYCERINE IS PUT INTO THE TUBE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU + USE A BARRIER. WHEN IT REACHES THE MIXTURE IT TAKES FROM THREE TO + FIVE MINUTES FOR THE IGNITION TO TAKE PLACE. + + IF THE IGNITER IS POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND SUGAR OR FLARE IGNITER OR + POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, IT NEEDS A BARRIER TO KEEP IT IN PLACE. TO + MAKE SURE THE FIRE TRAIN BURNS PAST THE BARRIER TO THE FUSE, THE + BARRIER SHOULD BE FLAMMABLE. TO MAKE MATERIAL FOR THIS BARRIER, MIX + COTTON WITH WET FUSE POWDER OR FLARE IGNITER. THEN DRY IT AND PULL + OFF PINCHES AS NEEDED. + + TO ARM THESE DEVICES A MEDICINE DROPPER FILLED WITH ACID OR GLYCERINE + CAN BE CARRIED UP-ENDED IN A TEST TUBE IN THE SHIRT POCKET. A PLASTIC + FELT-TIP MARKER WITH A CLIP TO HOLD IT UPRIGHT IN THE POCKET CAN BE + USED INSTEAD OF THE TEST TUBE. IT IS SIMPLY HOLLOWED OUT AND THE + DROPPER FITS IN NICELY. + + TO AVOID BURNED FINGERS, A STRING IS TIED TO THE DROPPER SO IT CAN BE + PULLED OUT OF THE CONTAINER. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + The Chemist's Corner Article #1: Explosives By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG + + This article deals with the instructions for creating some dangerous + explosives. If you intend to make any of these explosives, do so in + SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, as they are all dangerous and could seriously + injure or kill you if done in larger amounts. If you don't know + anything about chemistry, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I am not joking + in giving this warning. Unless you have a death wish, you shouldn't + try any of the following unless you have had prior experience with + chemicals. + + I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using + this information. It is provided for use by people knowledge in + chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely + handle such experiments. + + I. Common "weak" explosives. + + A. Gunpowder: + + 75% Potassium Nitrate + 15% Charcoal + 10% Sulfur + + The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (separately!) with + a mortar and pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns + fiercely, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the + released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like + this: the potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which + then burn fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases + released. + + B. Ammonal: + + Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with + aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the % + composition for Ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using + small amounts. + + C. Chemically ignited explosives: + + 1. A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar + (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of + magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. + What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the + potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on + formation, burning the sugar as well. + + 2. Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works + very well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name + 'MPG Volcanite' (tm). Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium + perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium + nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some + coloring agent. (scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, + yellow= sodium chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc...). + + 3. So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it. + Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. + When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms + nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. + The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the + ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It + also may ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. + + Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams + Ammonium choride: 1 gram + Zinc dust: 8 grams + Iodine crystals: 1 gram + + 4. Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple- + colored flame in 30 secs-1 min. Works best if the potassium + permanganate is finely ground. + + 5. Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable + gas used in blow torches...) + + II. Thermite reaction. + + The Thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten + iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous + reactions that I talked about to START it! + + Starter=potassium chlorate + sugar + Main pt.= iron (III) oxide + aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer) + + Put the potassium chlorate + sugar around and on top of the main pt. + To start the reaction, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid + on top of the starter mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts + iron (III) oxide to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium + chlorate to 1 part sugar. When you first do it, try 3g:1g:1g:1g! + Also, there is an alternative starter for the Thermite reaction. The + alternative is potassium permanganate + glycerine. Amounts: 55g iron + (III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate, 6ml + glycerine. + + III. Nitrogen-containing high explosives. + + A. Mercury(II) Fulminate + + To produce Mercury(II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive, + one might assume that it could be formed by adding Fulminic acid to + mercury. This is somewhat difficult since Fulminic acid is very + unstable and cannot be purchased. I did some research and figured out + a way to make it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid + to 2 parts alcohol to 1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not + yet tried it) so please, if you try this, do it in very small amounts + and tell me the results. + + B. Nitrogen Triiodide + + Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive + explosive. Never store it and be careful when you're around it- + sound, air movements, and other tiny things could set it off. + + Materials- + + 2-3g Iodine + 15ml concentrated ammonia + 8 sheets filter paper + 50ml beaker + feather mounted on a two meter pole + ear plugs + tape + spatula + stirring rod + + Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand + for 5 minutes. + + DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES! + + Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the + brown solid...). Scape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a + stack of four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, + putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in + position, leave to dry undisturbed for AT LEAST 30 minutes + (preferably longer). To detonate, touch with feather. (WEAR EAR + PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!) + + C. Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) + + Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that- + it does not give off smoke when it burns. + + Materials- + 70ml concentrated sulfuric acid + 30ml concentrated nitric acid + 5g absorbent cotton + 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate + 250ml beaker + ice bath + tongs + paper towels + + Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml + nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each + piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 + successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then + immerse in 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water + once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper + towels to dry overnight. + + + IV. Other stuff + + A. Peroxyacetone + + Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and has been reported to be + shock sensitive. + + Materials- + 4ml Acetone + 4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide + 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid + 150mm test tube + + Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add + 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white + solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test + tube in a water bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue + for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter + paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied + to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away). + + B. Smoke smoke smoke... + + The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since + this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if + necessary for larger amounts of smoke. + + 6g zinc powder + 1g sulfur powder + + Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should + be created. + + There are many other experiments I could have included, but I will + save them for the next Chemist's Corner article. Upcoming articles + will include Glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things + you can do with household chemicals, and more... + + I would like to give credit to a book by Shakashari entitled + "Chemical Demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of + chemicals in some experiments. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + HOME MADE CHEMICAL EXPERIMENTS + + This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting + experiment with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work + depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different + areas and brands. I would suggest that the person doing these + experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more + dangerous experiments. + + I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using + this information. It is provided for use by people knowledge in + chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely + handle such experiments. + + + I. A list of household chemicals and their composition + + Vinegar: 3-5% acetic acid + Baking soda: sodium bicarbonate + Drain cleaners: sodium hydroxide + Sani-flush: 75% sodium bisulfate + Ammonia water: ammonium hydroxide + Citrus fruit: citric acid + Table salt: sodium chloride + Sugar: sucrose + Milk of Magnesia- magnesium hydroxide + Tincture of iodine- 47% alcohol, 4% iodine + Rubbing alcohol- 70 or 99% (depends on brand) isopropyl alcohol (DO NOT + DRINK!) etc... + + [1] Generating chlorine gas + + Dangerous! You should know what you're doing before you try this... + + Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'DO NOT mix with chlorine + bleach, and vice-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with + Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture + it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some + ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air, + it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either + Ajax or ammonia (DON'T!). For something fun to do with chlorine stay + tuned.... + + [2] Chlorine + turpentine + + Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it + into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke + and probably start burning... + + [3] Generating hydrogen gas + + To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will + react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, + magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note + that it is lighter than air... Light a small amount and it burns with + a small *pop*. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the + electrolysis of water. This involves separating water (H2O) into + hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6- + 12 volt battery, two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes + (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. + Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two + test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the + mouth of the tube a iming down. Connect the battery to some wire + going down to the electrodes. This s will work for a while, but + chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will + undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon + electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium + ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts + with the water to form sodium hydroxide....). Therefore, if you can + get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. It will not + affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity. + + + [4] Hydrogen + chlorine + + Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. + Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one + that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop + it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and + possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An + interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and + no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough + energy is present to cause them to react... + + [5] Preparation of oxygen + + Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide + (from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and + they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build + up and shoot it off. Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when + only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into + flame. Experiment with it. The oxygen will allow things to burn + better... + + [6] Alcohol + + Buy some rubbing alcohol in a drug store. Usually this is either 70% + or 99% alcohol and burns just great. You can soak a towel in water + and then in alcohol, light the towel, and when it finishes burning + the alcohol, the flame should g o out and leave the towel unharmed. + Nice for "party tricks", etc. + + [7] Iodine + + Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To + separate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle + and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid + directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on + top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should + sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid + directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the + iodine along with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodide + (discussed in article #1). + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + CONTACT EXPLOSIVES + + + PETROLEUM JELLY AND POTASSIUM CHLORATE IN A 1 TO 1 RATIO BY WEIGHT + MAKES A TOTALLY SAFE WHEN WET COMPOUND BUT IS HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE AND + SHOCK SENSITIVE WHEN DRY. + + 3 GRAMS OF POTASSIUM IODIDE 5 GRAMS OF IODINE IN A BEAKER WITH 50ML + OF WATER MIXED ALL TOGETHER. ADD 20ML OF AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE (AMMONIA + WATER 10%) FILTER AND THE RESULTING SOLID IS CALLED NITROGEN + TRIIODIDE. WHEN WET IS VERY SAFE BUT UPON DRYING BECOMES VERY + EXPLOSIVE AND SHOCK SENSITIVE, TO THE POINT OF A FEATHER SETTING IT + OFF. + + TO SET OFF THE ABOVE EXPLOSIVES ALL YOU REALLY NEED TO DO IS PUT SOME + OF THE MIXTURE ON OR IN SOMETHING AND THEN DROP IT SORT OF LIKE AN + IMPACT BOMB. IT EXPLODES ON IMPACT WITH ANOTHER OBJECTS + + [-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-] + + HERE IS A MIXTURE FOR GREAT SMOKE BOMBS 4 PARTS OF SUGAR TO 6 PARTS + POTASSIUM NITRATE (SALT PETER). HEAT OVER LOW FLAME UNTIL IT MELTS, + STIR WELL. POUR IT INTO FUTURE CONTAINER. BEFORE IT SOLIDIFIES, IMBED + A FEW MATCHES AS FUSES INTO THE MIXTURE. ONE LB. FILLS A BLOCK + NICELY WITH THICK WHITE SMOKE. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + ELECTRONIC TERRORISM + + It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a + rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a + (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile + inwardly---your revenge is already planned. + + Step 1: Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you + have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting + your anger boil. + + Step 2: In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit + (details below.) + + Step 3: Plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday + morning between the hours of 4:00 AM and 6:00 AM. Include a calm, + suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another + attack. DO NOT WRITE IT BY HAND! An example of an effective note: + "Don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your hand. + Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear, as if + written by a homicidal psycho. + + Step 5: Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. + Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial + contortions. + + Step 6: Sit back and enjoy the fireworks! + + + Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective Terrorist Kit #1: + The parts you'll need are: + 1) 4 AA Batteries + 2) 1 9-Volt Battery + 3) 1 SPDT Mini Relay (Radio Shack) + 4) 1 Rocket Engine(Smoke Bomb or M-80) + 5) 1 Solar Ignitor (any hobby store) + 6) 1 9-Volt Battery connector + + Step 1: Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's + coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when + separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held + together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door. + Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt + circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the close position + thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a + look at the schematic below.) + + Step 2: Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in succession. Wire + the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, + until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one + negative terminal. Even though the four AA batteries only combine to + create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the + solar ignitor quickly and effectively. + + Step 3: Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of + it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the + solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back + to the open position on the relay. + + Step 4: Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, + mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the + rocket engine (smoke bomb or M-80). + + Your kit is now complete! + + +---------><--------- +I (CONTACTS) I +I I +I --- (9 VOLT) +I - (BATTERY) +I --- +I I +I (COIL) I +------///////------- + /----------- + / I + / I + / I + (SWITCH) I I + I I + I --- (BATTERY) + I - ( PACK ) + I --- + I I + I I + ---- ----- + I I + * + (SOLAR IGNITOR) + + So-o-o-o + You would like to delve into the art of harassing,pestering,annoying + and possibly harming another enemy!!! + + Ok-here you'll learn some of the useful methods I've used! For the + squeamish! + + ITEM 1- + + To torment a person, always start off easy and slowly increase the + severity of your attack until your goal is accomplished! This will + give you an example of r attack letting them know that you're not + done with them yet! + + ITEM 2- + + To start your revenge, mail anonymous letters and call at all hours! + + ITEM 3- + + Call the papers-place ads in their name (1964 Chevy Impala-$600)will + get every mexican gang member in L.A. to call and visit their address + if you put it in the ad. Advertise something illegal in their name, + then call the cops and show them! + + Call long distance under their phone # and order candy and flowers from + Western Union under their number. Order magazine subscriptions, books + records, everything you! + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + HOW TO MAKE A FLASHLIGHT BOMB + + A FLASHLIGHT BOMB IS FAIRLY EASY IT MAKE AND CAN BE CONCEALED SO + WELL, THEY IT IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO DETECT IT. HERE'S WHAT TO DO: + + GET YOURSELF ONE FLASHLIGHT OF ANY SIZE, SHAPE, OR CREED, AND THE + BATTERY/BATTERIES THAT GO ALONG WITH IT. NOW IT IS TIME FOR AN + IMPORTANT DECISION. DEPENDING UPON THE TYPE OF BOMB YOU REQUIRE, YOU + HAVE TO MAKE A CHOICE IN MATERIALS. HERE ARE YOUR CHOICES: + + [1] MERCURIC CHLORIDE - GAS BOMB + [2] PURE SODIUM+WATER - FLAME BOMB + [3] SULFURIC NITRATE - ACID BOMB + [4] GUNPOWDER (TNT) - BOOOOOOOOM! + + NOW, TAKING THE MATERIAL FOR THE TYPE OF BOMB YOU WOULD LIKE TO MAKE, + PROCEED TO PUT ROCKS, BB'S, GLASS PELLETS, ETC... IN THE BOTTOM OF A + HOLLOWED OUT BATTERY/BATTERIES, UNLESS YOU ARE MAKING A FLAME BOMB, + WHICH IN THAT CASE READ ON. THEN LINE A MAGNESIUM STRIP ALONG THE + SIDE OF THE FLASHLIGHT APPEARING ON TOP OF THE FLASHLIGHT SO YOU MAY + LIGHT IT. NEXT, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF THE EXPLOSIVE YOU CHOSE + IN THE BATTERY. [ NOT YOU MAY LIGHTLY PACK IT IN, BUT DO NOT HIT + IT!!! MY FRIEND WAS PACKING A HOME-MADE BOMB ONE DAY, AND HAMMERED + THE COVER ON, AND BLEW A HOLE RIGHT THROUGH HIS LIQUOR CABINET ] + NEXT, SECURE THE TOP, LEAVING ROOM TO INSERT THE MAGNESIUM STRIP. IT + SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS: + + ----------- + \ / + \ / + \_____/ + ! BMB ! + ! BMB ! + ! BMB ! + ! BBB ! + ! ! + !_____! + + IN THE LAST DIAGRAM, (B) STANDS FOR BATTERY AND (M) FOR MAGNESIUM. + ALSO INSIDE THE BATTERY SHOULD BE THE AMMO AND THE EXPLOSIVE. + + NOW FOR THE FLAME BOMB...THE SODIUM, SHOULD BE ON THE TOP, AND THE + WATER IN A BABY FOOD JAR. THE SODIUM USED HERE IS NOT TABLE SALT!!! + YOU WON'T NEED THE MAG. STRIP BECAUSE NUMBER 1, BECAUSE ALL YOU NEED + DO IS HIT THE FLASHLIGHT AGAINST SOMETHING HARD. DO NOT HOLD IT--- + THROW IT AS FAR AS YOU CAN!!! + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + EXPLOSIVE PENS + + Here are the instructions for building a device no agent should be + without. From the mind of "Q" himself, a device for your evaluation. + + Materials...... + + [1]-(1) "Felt" Tip Pen + + [2]-(1) "Ball" Point Pen + + [3]-(1) High quality firecracker! + + [4]-(1) 8 gram measure potassium parmagranite (optional) + + [5]-(x) Scotch Tape + + [6]-(1) Large Paper Clip + + [7]-(2) Packages of matches + + [8]-(1) Pair of scissors + + [9]-(1) Length of Beige thread + + Assembly...... + + [1]- Use thread to friction saw the felt tip pen in half at the point + where the cap "snaps" onto the pen. (about mid-section) + + [2]- Remove the inert of the felt tip pen, and throw them away. + + [3]- Pull the inert out of a bic ball point pen and remove the ball + point assembly at the front of the pen. + + [4]- Use scissors to widen the hole in the "felt" end of the pen. + Insert the ball assembly and make sure it is a tight fit. It should + now look as if the felt tip pen was constructed as a ball point pen. + + [5]- Cut off abrasive strips from the packs of matches. It is best + if they have not been used. Tape these to the top of the firecracker + near the fuse, the strips should run parallel to the outstretched + fuse. + + Wrap fuse over the top of one strip and tape down so fuse runs + parallel to abrasive strips. + + [6]- Unbend paper clip and tape a match to the metal rod, the match + should be parallel to the rod and it should be taped tight using as + little tape as possible. + + [7]- Insert the match head 1/5 of the way between the abrasive strips + and wrap tape around the assembly. It should now look like this. + + + + ------______----- + + [][][]a[][][]-----------------(b) + + (())--------------------- + + ______------_____ |(c) + + |(d) + + (a)-Explosive/(b)-Fuse/(c)-Match attached to metal rod/(d)-Abrasives + The entire assembly should be thin enough to slip into the case of + the felt tip pen. + + [8]- Using scissors drill a small hole in the "non-tip" end of the + felt tip pen case. Insert the assembly so the metal rod fits through + the hole in the end of the pen case. + + [9]- The assembly will not quite fit properly. The firecracker will + protrude from the cut half of the felt tip case. Slip the removed + end of the case over the firecracker. (join the halves together over + the firecracker in the center) and mount the cap of the felt tip pen + on the end of the metal rod. Glue any loose parts. You are done! + + To Detonate... + + + + Simply hit the cap (mounted at end of pen permanently) and throw it + at your target, or hand it to your target. My favorite is to say + "Think Fast" and throw them your felt tip pen. (make it a easy throw) + Your victim will catch it, and it will then explode. Cutting off many + small appendages if you coat the firecracker with potassium parmagranite. + Or killing your target if you use contact poison in place of the potassium. + Theory of operation... + + Quite simple, by hitting the cap you are ramming the match head at + the end of the metal rod between the tight abrasive strips causing + combustion. Or the "Orgasm" effect. (the term Axis Agents use!) The + fire lights the fuse and from there, the pen is history! (pardon the + pun). After hitting the cap you have a average time limit of 2.5 + seconds to rid yourself of the pen. (plenty of time actually...) + + Edited by : Quasimoto + + So, you want to learn about some explosives, eh sonny? Well, you have + come to the right place. Starting with this file, a series begins + that will try to bring that world of demolitions and fun ( ha ha ) a + little closer to you. This series, ingeniously dubbed the "Explosive + Files" will go through the many types of explosives around. In + addition, a few sidetracks will be made on the way in the areas of + fireworks or whatever seems appropriate. As you delve through what is + contained in the files, you may find some helpful information, you + may not. But have fun reading them anyway. + + If you haven't figured this one out yet, this file is formatted for + 80 columns. And the rest of the files are the same way. So, using a + quote I saw once on a file on a board, + + " Use your damn printers people !!! " + + And now on with the show. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + EXPLOSIVES + + To start learning about explosives, you have got to start at + the beginning. I plan to be as thorough as possible, but I may forget + things every now and then. The files should still be complete though. + So now to start at the beginning...... + + An explosive is a substance that, under the influence of heat, + shock, or some other agency, undergoes a chemical reaction that + causes it to decompose or break up quickly with more or less violence + ( whew ). Explosives fly to pieces because the materials composing + them react in such a way that solids or liquids are suddenly + converted into gases, which tend to expand and rapidly fill a larger + volume of space. Heat is also developed and acts as a catalyst ( + something that changes the speed of the reaction in some way. In this + case it speeds it up. ). The noise associated with an explosion is + caused by air waves. An explosion is an intensified combustion also. + + The history of explosives is too long for one file, but + certain events are covered in individual files. For instance, + gunpowder's history is in the gunpowder file. + + Lets narrow the scope a little here and get a little introduction + into explosives. How they are classified is a good thing to know, so + here it is. + + There are basically 3 different types of explosives existing. + All explosives fall into one of these categories somewhere. What + follows is a listing of each of these categories with a brief + description and some examples. + + + I. Propellants + + Propellants, or low explosives, are combustible materials, containing + within themselves all oxygen needed for their combustion. They burn + themselves out but do not explode, and function by producing gas + which explodes. + + Examples are Black powder and smokeless powder. + + + II. Primary Explosives + + Primary Explosives, or initiators as they are sometimes + called , explode or detonate when they are heated or subjected + to shock. They do not burn and sometimes they do not even contain the + elements necessary for combustion. The materials themselves explode, + and the explosion results whether they are confined or not. Their + brillance, or the shock which they produce when they explode, differs + considerably in different explosives, as does their sensitivity to + heat and the amount of heat they give off. + + Examples : Mercury Fulminate, Lead Azide, Fulminating Gold, + the mixture of Red Phosphorus with Potassium Chlorate, Copper + Acetylide, Nitrogen Sulfide, and Tetracene. + + + III. High Explosives + + High Explosives detonate under the influence of the shock + of the explosion of a suitable primary explosive. They do not + function by burning. Most of them can be ignited by a flame though + and in a small amount generally burn tranquilly and can be + extinguished easily. If heated to a high temperature by external heat + or by their own combustion, they will sometimes explode. They are + generally more brilliant and powerful than primary explosives. They + exert a mechanical effect on whatever is near them when they explode, + whether they are confined or not. + + Examples : Dynamite, Trinitrotoluene, Tetryl, Picric Acid, + Nitrocellulose, Nitroglycerin, Liqiud Oxygen mixed with wood pulp, + fuming Nitric Acid mixed with Nitrobenzene, Ammonium Nitrate , + Ammonium Perchlorate, and Nitroguanidine. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + IGNITERS + + + A small but major part of any explosive is how to ignite it. Some + materials, like gunpowder, will ignite quickly when in contact with + flame. But some explosives will not light by just a flame and hence + they require some thing with some more power, maybe even another + explosive. What follows is a list of your basic igniters. + + + BLACK MATCH + + Black match is made with fine, soft cotton twine and meal powder. It + is easily made by twisting 3 or 4 strands of the twine together and + covering the resulting cord with a paste made by mixing the meal + powder with water. The excess paste should be wiped off and the cord + should be allowed to dry while stretched across a frame. A slower + match can be made by twisting the twine and using a homemade black + powder as the paste. This powder is made by mixing 6 parts Potassium + nitrate, 1 part sulfur, and 1 part soft wood charcoal. This match and + slight derivations are used on nearly ever firework available. Its + cheap, reliable if made right, and easy. + + QUICK MATCH + + Quick match is black match inserted into a paper tube which does not + need to fit tightly. When light, the black match burns through the + tube at a extremely quick rate. + + + MINERS FUSE + + Miners Fuse is also called Safety Fuse or Bickford Fuse. It consists + of a central thread surrounded by a core of black powder enclosed + within a tube of woven threads, which is then surrounded by + waterproof materials, etc. It commonly burns at the rate of 1 foot a + minute. When the fire reaches the end, a jet of flame about 1 inch + long shoots out for the purpose of igniting black powder or lighting + a blasting cap. + + + DETONATING FUSE + + Detonating Fuse, or Cordeau, is a narrow tube filled with high + explosive. When the explosion is initiated at one end by a detonator, + the explosion travels along the tube with a high velocity which + causes other high explosives in its path to explode. In America, + cordeau is made from lead tubes filled with TNT, from aluminum or tin + tubes filled with Picric Acid, and from tubes of woven fabric filled + with Nitrocellulose or PETN (yes, that's Pentaerythrite + Tetranitrate). + + + BLASTING CAPS + + Instead of making a whole separate file out of blasting caps, my + first intention, I will just put the stuff here. + + Blasting caps were invented in 1867 by Alfred Nobel, who also first + made Nitroglycerin, invented dynamite and blasting gelatin, and + provided funding to start the Nobel prizes. What a cool dude. There + exist 3 different kinds of blasting caps, varying from a simple fuse + wrapped by explosive to a complicated waterproof cap involving an + electrical detonation. . There is also 8 grades, or strengths of + caps, denoted by numbers ( No. 1, No. 6, etc. ). Usually the + strength is marked on the cap. + + SIDE NOTE : Electrically ignited caps are the most common type + available. If you live anywhere near a quarry, try to get a tour of + the place. Watch wherever you walk. blasting caps abound in areas + like this. When nobody's looking, pocket a few. + + What follows is a generally useless chart, but here it is anyway. It + shows a little about the strengths of each cap type ( see another + file about mercury fulminate ). + + Weight of Mercury External + Fulminate Dimensions + ::::::::::::: :::::::::::::: + + grams diameter,mm length,mm + ::::: ::::::::::: ::::::::: + + No. 1 .30 5.5 16 + No. 2 .40 5.5 22 + No. 3 .54 5.5 26 + No. 4 .65 6 28 + No. 5 .80 6 30-32 + No. 6 1.00 6 35 + No. 7 1.50 6 40-45 + No. 8 2.00 6-7 50-55 + + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + PRIMARY HIGH EXPLOSIVE + + * Flash Point * + + Here we are with a list of primary high explosives. It's not much, + but there are not many of them. There are many more secondary high + and low explosives ( see the next two files ). + + Mercury Fulminate + ::::::::::::::::: + + Mercury Fulminate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing as + white or gray crystals. It is extremely sensitive to initiation by + heat, friction, spark or flame, and impact. It will detonate when + initiated by any of the ways. When stored continuously at + temperatures above 100 degrees F it gradually becomes inert. A dark- + colored product of deterioration gives evidence of this condition. + Mercury Fulminate is commonly stored underwater except in places + where freezing is possible. Then it is stored under a mixture of + water and alcohol. + + + Lead Styphnate + :::: ::::::::: + + Lead Styphnate is an initiating explosive, usually appearing in + orange or white crystals. It is easily ignited by heat and static + discharge, but cannot be used to start secondary high explosive + reliably. Lead Styphnate is an ingredient in priming mixtures for + small arms ammunition. Lead Styphnate is stored underwater except + where freezing is possible. Then it stored under water and alcohol. + + + Lead Azide + :::: ::::: + + Lead Azide is an initiating explosive produced as a white to buff + crystalline substance. It is more reliable than Mercury Fulminate and + it does not decompose during long storage at moderately elevated + temperatures ( 90 and above ). It should not be loaded into copper or + brass containers because Copper Azide, an extremely sensitive + explosive, can be formed in the presence of moisture. + + + DDNP + Diazodinitrophenol + :::::::::::::::::: + + DDNP is a primary high explosive. It is used extensively in + commercial blasting caps that are initiated by black powder safety + fuse. It is superior to Mercury Fulminate in stability but is not as + stable as Lead Azide. DDNP is desensitized by immersion in water. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + SECONDARY HIGH EXPLOSIVES + + + This section is a rather complete listing of secondary high + explosives. They are listed in no particular order and they all have + a bit of information about them again, just like the primary high + explosives. I think that this is probably the best file in the whole + group so have fun. + + + TNT + TRINITROLOLUENE + ::::::::::::::: + + TNT is produced from Toluene, Sulfuric acid, and Nitric acid. It is + powerful high explosive. It is well suited for steel cutting, + concrete breaching, general demolition, and underwater demolition. + It is a stable explosive and relatively insensitive to shock. It may + be detonated by a blasting cap or primacord. TNT is toxic and its + dust should not be inhaled or allowed contact with the skin. + + + NITROSTARCH + ::::::::::: + + Nitrostarch is composed of Starch Nitrate, Barium Nitrate, and Sodium + Nitrate. It is more sensitive to flame, friction, and shock than TNT + but not as powerful. It is initiated by detonating cord. + + + TETRYL + :::::: + + Tetryl is a fine, yellow crystalline material and exhibits a very + high shattering power. It is commonly used as a booster in explosive + trains. It is stable in storage. It is used in detonators. + + + RDX + CYCLONITE + ::::::::: + + RDX is a white crystalline solid that exhibits very high shattering + power. It is commonly used as a booster in explosive trains or as a + main bursting charge. It is stable in storage. + + + NITROGLYCERIN + ::::::::::::: + + Nitroglycerin is manufactured by treating Glycerin with a nitrating + mixture of Nitric Acid and Sulfuric acid. It is thick, clear to + yellow-brownish, and extremely powerful and shock sensitive. + Nitroglycerin freezes at 56 degrees fahrenheit in which state it is + less sensitive to shock than in liquid form. + + + COMMERCIAL DYNAMITE + ::::::::::::::::::: + + Commercial dynamite comes in three principal types. + Straight dynamite, Ammonia dynamite, and Gelatin dynamite. Each type + is further divided into a series of grades. All dynamites contain + Nitroglycerin in varying amounts and the strength of the explosion is + related to the Nitroglycerin content. Dynamite ranges in detonation + velocity from 4000 to 23,000 feet per second and is sensitive to + shock. Dynamite is initiated by electric or nonelectric blasting + caps. + + + PETN + PENTAERYTHRITE TETRANITRATE + ::::::::::::::::::::::::::: + + PETN is one of the most powerful of military explosives and + is almost equal in force to nitroglycerine and RDX. When used + in detonating cord, it has a detonation velocity of 21,000 + f.p.s. and is relatively insensitive to friction and shock from + handling and transportation. + + + MILITARY DYNAMITE + ::::::::::::::::: + + Military ( construction ) dynamite, unlike other commercial + dynamite, does not absorb or retain moisture, contains no + nitroglycerine, and is much safer to store, handle, and transport. It + detonates at a velocity of about 20,000 feet per second and is good + for military construction, quarrying, or demolition. It may be + detonated with an electric or nonelectric military blasting cap or + detonating cord. + + + AMATOL + :::::: + + Amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture + of Ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly + higher than TNT alone. Amatol is used a main bursting charge in + artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form + dangerous compounds with copper and brass. + + + BLASTING GELATIN + :::::::::::::::: + + Blasting gelatin is a translucent material of an elastic, + jellylike texture and is made in a number of different colors. It is + considered to be the most powerful industrial explosive. It is more + water resistant than Gelatin dynamite. + + + COMPOSITION C4 + :::::::::::::: + + Composition C4 is a white plastic explosive more powerful + than TNT. It consists of 91% RDX and 9% plastic binder. It remains + plastic over a wide range of temperatures (-70 F. to 170 F. ), and is + as sensitive as TNT. It is eroded less than other plastic explosives + when immersed is water for long periods. It is well suited for + cutting steel and timber and breaching concrete. + + + COMPOSITION B + ::::::::::::: + + Composition B is a high explosive mixture with a relative + effectiveness higher than that of of TNT. It is also more sensitive + that TNT. It is composed of 59% RDX, 40% TNT, and 1% wax. Because of + its shattering power and high rate of detonation, Composition B is + used as the main charge in certain bangalore torpedoes and shaped + charges. + + + AMMONIUM NITRATE + :::::::::::::::: + + Ammonium Nitrate is a white crystalline substance that is extremely + water absorbent and is therefor usually packed in a sealed metal + container. It has a low velocity of detonation ( 3600 f.p.s ) and is + used primarily as an additive to other explosives. It is only 55% as + powerful as TNT. + + + HMX + ::: + + HMX is a solid high explosive commonly used as a booster and + sometimes as a main charge where its shattering effect is needed. It + is a white substance with a rather high melting point; hence it is + usually pressed into its container. It may be initiated by Lead azide + or Mercury fulminate. + + + PENTOLITE + ::::::::: + + Pentolite is a high explosive made from equal mixtures of + PETN and TNT. It is light yellow and is used as the main + bursting charge in grenades, small shells, and shaped charges. + Pentolite should not be drilled to produce cavities; forming tools + should be used. + + + PICRIC ACID + ::::::::::: + + Picric Acid is a yellow crystalline, high explosive bursting charge. + it is initiated by Lead azide or Mercury fulminate and has the same + effectiveness as TNT. When in contact with lead, Picric acid produces + Lead Picrate, a sensitive and violent explosive. + + + GUN COTTON + :::::::::: + + Gun cotton is a nitrocellulose explosive made from cotton fibers + containing 13% or more of nitrogen. Although primarily considered a + propellant, it is sometimes used as a base charge in electric + detonators. + + + AMMONAL + ::::::: + + Ammonal is a high explosive mixture composed of 22% Ammonium nitrate, + 67% TNT, and 11% flaked or powdered aluminum. It is sometimes used as + a filler for artillery shell. The composition is 83% as effective as + TNT and explodes with a bright flash upon detonation. + + + IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER + ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: + + Plastic explosive filler can be made from Potassium Chlorate and + petroleum jelly. The Potassium chlorate crystals are ground into a + very fine powder and then mixed with the petroleum jelly. This + explosive can be detonated with a No. 8 commercial blasting cap or + with any military blasting cap. The explosive must be stored in a + waterproof container until ready to use. + + + TETRYTOL + :::::::: + + Tetrytol is a high explosive bursting charge containing 75% Tetryl + and 25% TNT. It is used as a demolitions explosive, a bursting charge + for mines, and in artillery shells. It is about as strong as TNT. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + G U N P O W D E R + + Probably the most common explosive you will ever encounter in your + travels is gunpowder. It is nearly everywhere. Most every firework + will use gunpowder. It is the easiest to make, and the cheapest of + all the explosive. How about a little bit of history here... + + Gunpowder is the oldest of all the known explosives. It's invention + is credited to the Chinese, the Arabs, and the Hindus, but the first + one to publish anything definite on it was friar Roger Bacon of + Oxford in 1242. He wrote a book telling how to make an explosive + mixture containing saltpeter. For this reason Roger Bacon is + sometimes considered the inventor of gunpowder. + + Berthold Schwartz, a monk, also played his part in gunpowders history + by helping to develop firearms using gunpowders properties. By 1326 + cannons were being used. + + Certainly gunpowder helped change the course of the world. It has + been used in things such as warfare to mechanical assistance. + + By the way, Saltpeter is Potassium Nitrate ( KNO3 ). Also, + doesn't it seem a bit funny that most of the people involved in the + history of explosives were religious people? + + The modern gunpowder is commonly called Black Powder, but is made in + about the same way as its ancestors. Saltpeter, charcoal, and sulphur + are mechanically mixed into a fix powder. The rate of ignition + depends on the grain size ; the smaller the grains, the faster it + burns. The exact proportions of each material can vary, and each + mixture is a little different. But the most effective powder has been + found to be in the ratio of 6 parts Saltpeter, 1 part charcoal, and 1 + part sulphur. Here are a few other mixtures though for your + enjoyment. + + + DATE SALTPETER CHARCOAL SULFUR + -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- + + 8th century 66 22 12 + 8th century 70 23 7 + Roger Bacon 37 32 31 + 1560 50 33 17 + 1781 75 15 10 + 1635 75 12.5 12.5 + + + Brown powder, also called cocoa powder, was discovered and it was + found that it could be used as a replacement for normal black + charcoal. Brown powder is slower burning than its brother and was + used extensively in guns before smokeless powder was developed. Cocoa + powder is more sensitive to friction than ordinary black powder. + Samples have ignited when shaking in canvas bags. As before, here are + some exciting different formulas. + + + Saltpeter Brown Charcoal Sulphur + <*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*> + + 79 18 3 + 78 19 3 + 80 20 0 + + + There are a few more variations of gunpowder existing too, + so check out the next file for a listing. + + A common myth about gunpowder is that it explodes. This is + wrong ( I know a few people out there are saying I'm full of shit, + right ? Well, it's the truth ). To really understand what happens it + is necessary to know a little about chemistry. I'll try to explain it + to the average person now. + + The formula for saltpeter is KNO3 ( Potassium nitrate ). If you don't + know yet, the O stands for an oxygen atom, and there are 3 of them. + The 3 is supposed to be sub-scripted by the way, so just imagine that + it is. This means that in the gunpowder mixture, there is a whole + bunch of oxygen atoms. Well, pure oxygen burns. But how does it break + out of the KNO3 ? The oxygen is attracted to the sulphur and + charcoal, but is bonded to the nitrogen ( N ) and can't get away + normally. When it is lit, the ignition breaks the N-O bonds and in an + instantaneous moment solid and gaseous products are formed. What ends + up happening is that the gases cause the explosion. Its is really + more complicated than that, but I would take a good 50 sectors going + into detail. For a better understanding of this, pick up an + encyclopedia or ask your chemistry teacher. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + + Other Powders + + Explosives file #6 by Flashpoint + + They couldn't let black powder get all lonesome by being the only + worthwhile powder useful in explosives, so somebody invented a few + more. Some of these are better than black powder, some worse, some + more expensive, some more convenient. But they are all powders. + + BLASTING POWDER + + Since normal black powder burns rather quickly when mixed well, a + slower and cheaper powder is needed for blasting. A powder of this + type can be obtained by reducing the amount of Potassium Nitrate. The + French government has manufactured and sold the following kinds of + blasting powder. + + SALTPETER CHARCOAL SULFUR + ::::::::: :::::::: :::::: + + 72 15 13 + 40 30 30 + 62 18 20 + + + In the United States, most blasting powder is made from Sodium + nitrate. Some samples taken show the following ratios. + + SODIUM NITRATE CHARCOAL SULFUR + :::::::::::::: :::::::: :::::: + + 68 10 22 + 73 11 16 + + Pellet powders, made from Sodium Nitrate, are becoming popular. They + are cylindrical pellets, 2 inches long, wrapped in paraffined paper + cartridges, and are from 1 and 1/4 to 2 inches in diameter. The + pellets resemble cartridges of dynamite. From 2 to 4 pellets whilse + are perforated in the direction of their axis are wrapped in the + cartridges and a 3/8 hole is bored for insertion of fuse for firing. + The pellets are also sold in most hardware stores for use in welding + torches under names like Solid OX pellets and generally cost about $ + 8.00 for a can of 7 or 8 sticks. You can buy these pellets and grind + them up for a good source of Sodium Nitrate powder. It makes a hell + of a black powder. + + + II. AMMONPULVER + + Propellant powder made from Ammonium nitrate is about as powerful as + smokeless powder and has long had a limited use for military uses, + especially in Germany and Austria. + + In 1855, a powder was patented called Amidpulver. Later the formula + was improved, giving the powder a flashless discharge when fired in a + gun and only a moderate amount of smoke. Ammonpulver which contains + no Potassium nitrate explodes with no flash and little smoke. + + AMMONIUM POTASSIUM + NITRATE NITRATE CHARCOAL + :::::::::: ::::::::::: :::::::::: + + Amidpulver 38 44 16 + improved Amidpulver 37 14 49 + other formula 85 - 15 + + Ammonpulver has the advantages of being cheap, powerful, flashless, + and almost smokeless. It is insensitive to shock and friction, and is + more difficult to ignite than black powder. In use it requires a + strong igniter charge. + + + + + III. POWDER BRUGERE + + Powder Brugere is made by grinding together the following composition + + Ammonium nitrate 54 parts + Potassium nitrate 46 parts + + The powder is pressed and granulated as in the making of black + powder. It is more powerful than black powder and gives less smoke. + + + + FRENCH AMMONAL + + French Ammonal is an easily improvised low explosive mixture of 86% + Ammonium nitrate, 6% Stearic acid, and 8% Aluminum powder. It is + generally less effective than and equal weight of TNT. Initiation by a + Engineer's special blasting cap is recommended. + + !>Flash Point is a very powerful high explosive. + I am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't -- the first + person to make it probably blew himself up and his friend got the + info off his notes. Well anyway, the next best thing to nitro is TNT + which is ten times harder to make but also ten times safer to make. + If you can't use it then don't even TRY to make this stuff!!! + + To Make Nitro: + Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a + specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulfuric acid. + This is going to be HOT at first -- it won't splatter if you pour the + nitric INTO the sulfuric but don't try it the other way around. The + acid solutions together can dissolve flesh in a matter of seconds so + take the proper measures for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts + glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down the sides of the + container into the acids or it won't mix thoroughly and the reaction + could go to fast -- which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff. + Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CAREFULLY pour it + into 20 time it's volume of water. It will visibly precipitate + immediately. There will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin + and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you + have separated it -- this helps it not to go off spontaneously. + + NOTES: + Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of specific gravity can be + found in most chemical. books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric + acid wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is + positively *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. + When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made + the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too + much glycerine at the time.) I was across the room at the time, but I + felt the impact -- so did the table it was on as well as the window + it was next to --- they were both smashed by only 25 grams in an open + bowl.) Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need + no adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if + you don't add the bicarbonate (baking soda) -- but even with that, if + it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it. + + Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can + make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by + simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating + that with molten (paraffin -- just enough to make it sealed and + hard.) Typically use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, + cotton and paraffin. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once know + as "Norbin and Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896. + + **Carefully** mix equal amounts of nitric acid and sulfuric acid + together in a graduated cylinder or other tall, thin container. + Slowly add ordinary glycerin a stir very lightly. Wait a while, and + pour off the liquid on top. This liquid is nitroglycerine, and + should be handled with caution. Washing it with sodium carbonate + will improve the purity. + + As for the use of what you just made let me know...... + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + + THE PEN GUN + BY + THE ARCHITECT + + The growing world of household weapons would not be complete without + the infamous PEN GUN. This versatile weapon which doubles as a + household pen, can be shot up to 2 feet and still do sub stantial + damage to the enemies' eyes or what not. + + STEP 1: acquire a "push pen", one that snaps in and out when you + press the back of the pen. + + STEP 2: next, disassemble this pen so that you have the 4 parts + needed to fire your semi-automatic weapon. + + 1> the pusher (found in the back) + 2> the little pusher (found in the pusher) + 3> the spring (found on top of the ink case) + 4> the ink case (the long thing with ink in it) + + Once you have discovered these parts. arrange them in such a way so + that you can see each of the parts. + + STEP 4: now, you must follow these instructions closely. + + 1> put the pusher in it's old place. be sure not to put the little + pusher in it! + 2> put the spring in next (all this goes in the back of the pen) + 3> on top of the spring goes the little pusher. + 4> put the ink case on top of the little pusher and replace the + front. (this cram all of the little parts together and make them + stick in there. + + 5> remove the top. and leave the ink case in, as this will be the + pain inflicting element. + + To activate this little gun, just push the pusher! (some extra force + may be required) + + This little weapon/writing utensil, can be used to write a paper or + blind an enemy! It's also good for shooting the person in front of + you in class (be sure he's wearing thick clothes unless + you want to hurt him) + + Enjoy! + + The Architect + + Disclaimer: + + The Architect assumes no responsibility for the actions of others in + the use of this mechanical wonder. + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + HOW TO MAKE PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES + + A PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER CAN BE MADE FROM POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND + PETROLEUM JELLY. THIS EXPLOSIVE CAN BE DETONATED IN ANY MILITARY + BLASTING CAP. (FIND A FRIEND IN THE SERVICE OR IN THE RESERVE, OR + STEAL ONE). + + MATERIALS: + ---------- + POTASSIUM CHLORATE - THIS CHEMICAL IS USED FOR MEDICINAL PURPOSES, + AND IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MATCHES. + + PETROLEUM JELLY - JUST GET SOME VASELINE OR NO-NAME BRAND. + + PIECE OF ROUND STICK + + WIDE BOWL OR OTHER CONTAINER FOR MIXING INGREDIENTS. + + + PROCEDURE: + ---------- + 1) SPREAD THE POT. NIT. CRYSTALS THINLY ON A HARD SURFACE. ROLL THE + ROUND STICK OVER THE CRYSTALS TO CRUSH INTO WHAT LOOKS LIKE WHEAT + FLOUR. + + 2) PLACE 9 PARTS POWDERED POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND 1 PART PETROLEUM + JELLY IN A WIDE BOWL OR SIMILAR CONTAINER. MIX THE INGREDIENTS WITH + YOUR HANDS (KNEAD) UNTIL A UNIFORM PASTE IS OBTAINED. + + STORE THE EXPLOSIVE IN A WATERPROOF CONTAINER UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO + USE IT. + + + + PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES- + + MIX 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE FOR EVERY ONE PART OF PETROLEUM JELLY + (VASELINE WILL DO) THEN USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE. + + NITRO IODIDE- + + OK, THIS IS HOW TO MAKE NITRIC IODIDE. MIX SOME SOLID IODINE WITH + HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA. WAIT OVERNIGHT. POUR OFF THE LIQUID. LET THE MUD + FROM THE BOTTOM DRY ON A HARD SURFACE OUTSIDE LIKE CONCRETE. THROW + SOMETHING ON IT. IT WILL GO OFF AT THE SOUND OF A VOICE BECAUSE IT IS + SO UNSTABLE. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + KITCHEN IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES + BY TIM LEWIS PART II RDX MANUFACTURE + + RDX IS THE MAIN INGREDIENT IN THE REST OF THE PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES I + WILL COVER. THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW + WHAT YOU ARE DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS IF YOU WISH TO LIVE + TILL YOUR NEXT BIRTHDAY! + + SINCE THE FIRST PART OF WWII THE ARMED FORCES OF THE UNITED STATES + HAS BEEN SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVES TO BE USED IN + DEMOLITION WORK. THIS SEARCH LEAD TO THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE 'C' + COMPOSITION PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVES. OF THIS GROUP C-4 BEING THE LATEST + FORMULATION THAT HAS BEEN READILY ADOPTED BY THE ARMED FORCES. THIS + FORMULATION WAS PRECEDED BY C-3, C-2, AND C. + + IN THIS SERIES OF ARTICLES, I WILL COVER ALL THESE EXPLOSIVES IN + THEIR CHRONOLOGICAL PROGRESSION AS THEY WERE DEVELOPED AND + STANDARDIZED BY THE ARMED FORCES. ALL THESE EXPLOSIVES ARE CYCLONITE + OR R.D.X. BASE WITH VARIOUS PLASTICIZING AGENTS USED TO ACHIEVE THE + DESIRED PRODUCT. THIS PLASTICIZER, USUALLY COMPOSES 7%-20% OF THE + TOTAL WEIGHT OF THE PLASTIQUE. CYCLOTRIMETHYLENETRINITTRIME OR + CYCLONITE IS MANUFACTURED IN BULK BY THE NITRATION OF + HEXAMETHYLENETETRAMINE, (METHENAMINE, HEXAMINE, ETC., ETC.) WITH + STRONG RED 100% NITRIC ACID. THE HARDEST PART OF THIS REACTION IS + OBTAINING THIS RED NITRIC ACID. IT WILL MOST LIKELY HAVE TO BE MADE. + MORE ON THIS LATER. HEXAMINE OR METHENAMINE CAN USUALLY BE BOUGHT IN + BULK QUANTITIES OR HEXAMINE FUEL BARS FOR CAMP STOVES CAN BE USED BUT + THEY END UP BEING VERY EXPLOSIVE. TO USE THE FUEL BARS THE NEED TO + BE POWERED BEFORE HAND. THE HEXAMINE CAN ALSO BE MADE WITH COMMON + AMMONIA WATER (30%) AND THE COMMONLY AVAILABLE 36% FORMALDEHYDE + SOLUTION. TO MAKE THIS COMPONENT PLACE 185 GRAMS OF CLEAR AMMONIA + WATER IN A SHALLOW PYREX DISH. TO THIS ADD 500ML OF THE FORMALDEHYDE + SOLUTION TO THE AMMONIA WATER. ALLOW THIS TO EVAPORATE AND WHEN THE + CRYSTALS ARE ALL THAT REMAINS IN THE PAN PLACE THE PAN IN THE OVEN ON + THE LOWEST HEAT THAT THE OVEN HAS. THIS SHOULD BE DONE ONLY FOR A + MOMENT OR SO TO DRIVE OFF ANY REMAINING WATER. THESE CRYSTALS ARE + SCRAPED UP AND PLACED IN A AIRTIGHT JAR TO STORE THEM UNTIL THEY ARE + USED. TO MAKE THE RED NITRIC ACID YOU WILL NEED TO BUY A RETORT WITH + A GROUND GLASS STOPPER. IN THE RETORT PLACE 32 GRAMS SULFURIC ACID, + (98%-100%), AND TO THIS ADD 68 GRAMS OF POTASSIUM NITRATE OR 58 GRAMS + OF SODIUM NITRATE. GENTLY HEATING THIS RETORT WILL GENERATE A RED + + GAS CALLED NITROGEN TRIOXIDE. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS AND THIS + STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WI TH GOOD VENTILATION. + THIS NITRIC ACED THAT IS FORMED WILL COLLECT IN THE NECK OF THE + RETORT AND FORM DROPLETS THAT WILL RUN DOWN THE INSIDE OF THE NECK OF + THE RETORT AND SHOULD BE CAUGHT IN A BEAKER COOLED BY BEING + SURROUNDED BY ICE WATER. + + THIS SHOULD BE HEATED TILL NO MORE COLLECTS IN THE NECK OF THE RETORT + AND THE NITRIC ACID QUITS DRIPPING OUT OF THE NECK INTO THE BEAKER. + THIS ACID SHOULD BE STORED UNTIL ENOUGH ACID IS GENERATED TO PRODUCE + THE REQUIRED SIZE BATCH WHICH IS DETERMINED BY THE PERSON PRODUCING + THE EXPLOSIVE. OF COURSE THE BATCH CAN BE LARGER OR SMALLER BUT THE + SAME RATIONS SHOULD BE MAINTAINED. TO MAKE R.D.X. PLACE 550 GRAMS OF + THE NITRIC ACID PRODUCED BY THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN A 1000 ML. BEAKER + IN A SAL TED BATH. 50 GRAMS OF HEXAMINE, (METHENAMINE) IS ADDED IN + SMALL PORTIONS MAKING SURE THAT THE TEMPERATURE OF THE ACID DOES NOT + GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS. THIS TEMPERATURE CAN BE MONITORED BY + PLACING A THERMOMETER DIRECTLY IN THE ACID MIXTURE. DURING THIS + PROCEDURE A VIGOROUS STIRRING SHOULD BE MAINTAINED. IF THE + TEMPERATURE APPROACHES 30 DEGREES, IMMEDIATELY STOP THE ADDITION OF + THE HEXAMINE UNTIL THE TEMPERATURE DROPS TO AN ACCEPTABLE LEVEL. + + AFTER THE ADDITION IS COMPLETE CONTINUE THE STIRRING AND ALLOW THE + TEMPERATURE TO DROP TO 0 DEGREES CELCIUS AND ALLOW IT TO STAY THERE + FOR 20 MINUTES CONTINUING THE VIGOROUS STIRRING. AFTER THE 20 MINUTES + ARE UP, POUR THIS ACID-HEXAMINE MIXTURE INTO 1000 ML. OF FINELY + CRUSHED ICE AND WATER. CRYSTALS SHOULD FORM AND ARE FILTERED OUT OF + THE LIQUID. THE CRYSTALS THAT ARE FILTERED OUT ARE R.D.X. AND WILL + NEED TO HAVE ALL TRACES OF THE ACID REMOVED. TO REMOVE THIS TRACE OF + ACID, FIRST WASH THESE CRYSTALS BY PUTTING THEM IN ICE WATER AND + SHAKING AND REFILTERING. THESE CRYSTALS ARE THEN PLACED IN A LITTLE + BOILING WATER AND FILTERED. PLACE THEM IN SOME WARM WATER AND CHECK + THE ACIDITY FOR THE RESULTANT SUSPENSION WITH LITMUS PAPER. YOU WANT + IT TO READ BETWEEN 6 AND 7 ON THE PH SCALE. IF THERE IS STILL ACID IN + THESE CRYSTALS REBOIL THEM IN FRESH WATER UNTIL THE ACID IS REMOVED + AND THE LITMUS PAPER SHOWS THEM BETWEEN 6 AND 7, (THE CLOSER TO 7 THE + BETTER). + + TO BE SAFE THESE CRYSTALS SHOULD BE STORED WATER WET UNTIL READY FOR + USE. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE TREATED + WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE! THIS EXPLOSIVE IS MUCH MORE POWERFUL + THAN T.N.T. TO USE, THESE WILL NEED TO BE DRIED FOR SOME + MANUFACTURING PROCESSES IN THE NEXT FEW ARTICLES. TO DRY THESE + CRYSTALS, PLACE THEM IN A PAN AND SPREAD THEM OUT AND ALLOW THE WATER + TO EVAPORATE OFF THEM UNTIL THE ARE COMPLETELY DRY. THIS EXPLOSIVE + WILL DETONATE IN THIS DRY FORM WHEN PRESSED INTO A MOLD TO A DENSITY + OF 1.55 GRAMS CUBED, AT A VELOCITY OF 8550 M/SECOND! + + COMPARISON OF DETONATION VELOCITIES + +------------------------------+ +8600 ! ! +8500 ! %%% ! +8400 ! %%% ! +8300 ! %%% ! +8200 ! %%% ! +8100 ! %%% %%% ! +8000 ! %%% %%% ! +7900 ! %%% %%% %%% ! +7800 ! %%% %%% %%% ! +7700 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +7600 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +7500 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +7400 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +7300 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +7200 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +7100 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +7000 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +6900 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! +6800 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% ! + +--------------------------------+ + TNT RDX C C-2 C-3 C-4 + + YOU MAY OBTAIN A CATALOG OF BOOKS THAT + THEY SELL BY WRITING + + INFORMATION PUBLISHING CO. + BOX 10042 ODESSA, TEXAS 79762 + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + POTASSIUM NITRATE + + + MORE THINGS TO DO WITH POTASSIUM NITRATE (BESIDES GUN POWDER). WELL A + GREAT THING TO DO IS TO MIX IT 50% WITH SUGAR AND PUT IT IN A TIN CAN + WITH THE TOP SAWED OFF. MIX IT WELL THEN LIGHT AND MAKE A LOT OF + SMOKE. IT WILL MELT CAN TO THE GROUND. FOR THE PURISTS WHAT IS + HAPPENING IS THE POTASSIUM NITRATE IS OXIDIZING THE SUGAR WHICH AND + GOOD BIO STUDENT KNOWS HAS HIGH ENERGY IN IT! SO WATCH WHAT IS + HAPPENING YOUR BODY AND A SLIGHTLY ACCELERATED. + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + _________________________________ + [ ] + [ THE FIRST BOOK OF ] + [ PYROMANIACS ] + [ ] + [ BY: GREY WOLF ] + [ ] + [_________________________________] + + + + P.S. DON'T KILL YOURSELF... + + ....................................... + + ->UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<- + ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ + + + 1) MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA + + 2) WAIT OVERNIGHT + + 3) POUR OFF THE LIQUID + + 4) DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CONCRETE) + + 5) THROW SOMETHING AT IT! + + + ->SMOKE BOMBS<- + ^^^^^ ^^^^^ + + + 1) MIX: 3 PARTS SUGAR + -------------------- + 6 PARTS EPSON SALTS + + 2) PUT IN TINCAN, ONTO LOW FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER) + + 3) LET GEL and HARDEN + + 4) PUT A MATCH IN AS A FUSE. + + 5) LIGHT IT and RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4 POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY + BLOCK... + + + ->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<- + ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ + + 1) MIX: 7 PARTS POTASIUM CHLORATE + --------------------------- + 1 PART VASELINE + + 2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE. + + ->CAR BOMB<- + ^^^ ^^^^ + + 1) PUT LIQUID DRAINO INTO A PILL BOX (THE KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE + ON A PRESCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK) + + 2) CLOSE THE LID and POP THE THING INTO THE GAS TANK + + 3) WAIT 5 MIN. + + 4) RUN + + + ->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES<- + ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ + + 1) MIX: 2 PARTS VASELINE + ------------------ + 1 PART GASOLINE + + 2) IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE. + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + PYROMANIAC'S GUIDE + + Today boys and girls we will tell you all about having fun with a few + simple items that you can buy easily or may even have in your home. + + Since most of you are simple-minded, uncoordinated morons, I will + start you out slowly and simply (like you). + + Our first project is a sure fire way to be the life of the party. + Real sure fire. This item is called a "Handy House Warmer." All you + need are three items which can easily be obtained. The first item is + a roll of electrical tape (starts easy). Second, a large can of + Sterno, easily bought at any camping or hardware store. Third, an M- + 80 or other similar explosive plaything. + + Step one in the construction of our pyrotecnic wonder is to remove + the top of the sterno and, using an ice pick or other sharp item, + punch a hole in the top of the can. Step two is placing the M-80 + into the sterno gel. Make sure it is well covered by the gel. Step + three is to replace the cap, making sure to thread the M-80 fuse + through the hole in the cap. After securing the lid tightly on the + can, you can start the final phase to fun. The last step is simply + to wind tape tightly around the entire can, making sure to cover it + completely with at least three layers of tape but not more than six + layers. + + Now, as you can tell, when you go to use our incendiary toy to + cheaply and efficiently heat any home in your neighborhood, all you + have to do is light the fuse and run. The other advantages of this + are that Sterno sticks to almost anything and is very difficult to + put out, needing to be completely smothered, and that Sterno is + highly prone to reignition (very similar to napalm). This type of + firecracker is handy in small areas such as inside cars, small rooms, + phone booths, rectums, etc... + + Now, I am not advocating the use of this item for anything but your + own personal fireworks displays and enjoyment, but where and what you + call enjoyment I won't judge. + + Well, boys and girls, that's all for today. Hope you enjoyed our + time together and remember my motto: DEATH IS JUST A STATE OF MIND. + + T. T. F. N. from G. W. + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + Rocket Bombs + + BY: MR. DEATH + + HAVE YOU EVER WANTED TO BUILD YOUR OWN WARHEAD CARRYING ROCKET? WELL + NOW YOU CAN WITH THE NEW "BLOW-EM-UP" ROCKET BOMB PLANS FROM MR. + DEATH. FIRST YOU MUST HAVE SOME SORT OF EXPERIENCE IN MODEL ROCKETRY. + THEN GO OUT AND BUY A "D" OR "E" ENGINE ROCKET THAT IS FAIRLY SIMPLE. + + MAKE THE ROCKET LIKE THEY SAY AND THEN FILL THE NOSE CONE WITH SOME + SUBSTANCE THAT HAS THE SAME WEIGHT OR CLOSE TO FLASH-POWDER. DETACH + THE NOSE CONE FROM THE SHOCK CORD SO THAT ONLY THE BODY WILL BE + CONNECTED TO THE PARACHUTE. GET A GOOD STOPWATCH AND A PAIR OF GOOD + BINOCULARS AND LAUNCH THE ROCKET STRAIGHT UP. WATCH THE ROCKET AND + START TIMING WHEN THE EJECTION CHARGE BLOWS THE CONE FREE AND STOP + TIMING RIGHT WHEN THE CONE IMPACTS ON THE GROUND. + + THEN RETRIEVE THE BODY AND GET ANOTHER NOSE CONE. FILL THE NOSE CONE + WITH FLASH POWDER AND BLOCK UP THE HOLE WITH MODEL CEMENT. MAKE SURE + TO HAVE A NICE LITTLE FUSE STICKING OUT OF THE CEMENT. THAT FUSE + SHOULD BE A LITTLE SMALLER THAN THE AMOUNT OF TIME IT TOOK FOR + IMPACT. (SMALLER TIME-WISE) FIGURE THAT IF IT TOOK 30 SEC. TO FALL + THEN THE FUSE SHOULD BE ENOUGH FOR ABOUT 25 SEC. NOW THIS IS GOOD FOR + A BOMB THAT WILL GO STRAIGHT UP AND COME STRAIGHT DOWN. NOW IF YOU + WANT TO SHOOT IT ON AN ANGLE, THEN YOU MUST USE SOME FORMULA TO + FIGURE OUT HOW HIGH THE ROCKET WILL BE WHEN EJECTION OCCURS SO THAT + YOU CAN TIME YOUR FUSE RIGHT. REMEMBER TO USE A NO-TIME DELAY ENGINE + SO THAT THE EJECTION CHARGE WILL OCCUR IMMEDIATELY. HAVE FUN. + + *** MR. DEATH *** + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB + + + This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom + of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant + firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and + bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a + plastic drinking straw. + + After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or + glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or + wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you + three to five minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on + passerbys. + + It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone + else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink + from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast! + + !! + !! + !! <-chemical ingiter + --------- + ! !1! ! + ! ===== ! + !*! !"! + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! !<- big firecracker + ! ! !%! + ! ==== ! + ! ! + ! # ! + ! --- ! + ! ! ! <- nuts and bolts + ! / ! + ! ! + --------- + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + S T I N K U M + + FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON + TYPED BY THE PENGUIN + + IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO + MAKE AND JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM + SULFIDE. IT STINKS TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN + STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR + VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION. + + TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFUR R WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED + LIME IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED + AND STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFER HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED + LIME WILL SINK TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN + POURED OFF INTO A BUCKET + + TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF + SULFATE OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER + THE BUCKET WITH PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. + THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE. + IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO + ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON. + + A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFATE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY + GARDEN STORE AND GARDEN SULFER IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT + GUN POWDER. IT HAS 10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED + TO ANY FORMULA REQUIRED-ING SULFER. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A + BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10 A POUND. + + STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL, + THROWN IN A BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE + SAME GOES FOR THE FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE + NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC + COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE CAN BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP + FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS BOUGHT AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE + WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION. TO KEEP THE + FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO + MELTED WAX. ENOUGH GOODY IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT + FULL WHEN THE FIRECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS + FILLED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE BEFORE USING. + + IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A + MATCH OR CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT + THAT MIGHT INJURE SOMEONE. + + ! <- FUSE + --- + ! ! <- BRASS TUBE + ! ! + ! ! + (^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE + ------- + ! !1! ! + ! / ! + ! / ! + !-----! <- WAX + ! 1 ! + ! 1 ! + ! === ! + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! ! + ! === ! + !-----! + + Edited by : Quasimoto + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + TEAR GAS + + + THERE ARE SEVERAL EYE AND NOSE IRRITANTS ON THE MARKET WHICH CAN BE BE + EASILY DUPLICATED. + + A GOOD IRRITANT IS FORMALDEHYDE. BETTER KNOWN AS EMBALMING FLUID, IT + SMELLS HORRIBLE, HURTS THE EYES AND NOSE, AND B ON EXPOSURE TO THE AIR + IT VAPORIZES, MAKING A ROOM UNINHABITABLE FOR HOURS. + + IT CAN BE SQUIRTED FROM A WATER PISTOL OR NASAL INHALER, POURED ON + THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY A BOMB DESCRIBED IN THE STINKUM FILE. + + FORMALDEHYDE CAN BE BOUGHT AT THE DRUG STORE UNDER THE PRETEXT OF + WANTING IT TO PRESERVE MICE OR OTHER LAB SPECIMEN. + + -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- + + THE IRRITANT MAILMEN USE AGAINST DOGS AND WHICH IS SOLD WIDELY FOR + SELF DEFENSE IS OLEORESID CAPSICUM. CAPSICUM IS THE HOT ESSENCE OF + RED PEPPERS. + + OLEORESIN IS THE PROCESS FOR EXTRACTING IT. TO EXTRACT THE CAPSICUM, + GRIND UP FOUR OUNCES OF RED PEPPER SEEDS IN A BLENDER OR WITH A + MORTAR AND B PESTLE. RED PEPPER SEEDS ARE BOUGHT IN THE GROCERS'S. + + THE DRY, GROUND SEEDS ARE THEN PUT INTO A COFFEE PERCOLATOR IN WHICH + THERE IS ABOUT 16 OUNCES OF ALCOHOL,PREFERABLY WITH THE WATER + DISTILLED OUT. THE SEEDS ARE THEN PERCOLATED FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. + THE ALCOHOL IS THEN DISTILLED OFF UNTIL THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF + TABLE SPOONS OF RED LIQUID LEFT IN THE FLASK. THE RED LIQUID IS THEN + ADDED TO A HALF PINT OF LIGHT MINERAL OIL, BOUGHT AT A DRUG STORE. + + IT CAN BE SPRAYED FROM A NASAL SPRAY . ANOTHER GOOD WAY IS WITH A + WINDOW CLEANING SPRAYER BOUGHT AT ANY DIME STORE. THE TUBE OF THE + SPRAYER IS CUT TO FIT IN A TWO OUNCE MEDICINE BOTTLE. THIS WAY YOU + HAVE ENOUGH OF THE GOODY TO LAST THROUGH A WHOLE DEMONSTRATION, NO + MATTER WHICH SIDE YOU'RE ON. IT IS ALSO NICE TO KEEP BY THE DOOR OR + BY YOUR COMPUTER TO REPEL INTRUDERS. INTRUDERS. (BELL SECURITY!) + + BEFORE USING, THE CONTAINER SHOULD BE GIVEN A PHEW SHAKES. UNDER + LABORATORY ORY CONDITIONS ALL THE OIL IS EXTRACTED FROM THE SEEDS. BUT + WITH MY MICKEY MOUSE METHOD A LOT OF OIL IS LEFT IN SO THE RESIDUE IS + QUITE POTENT. JUST BE SURE YOU STRAIN OUT ANY LARGER BITS SO THE + SPRAYER HOLE IS NOT CLOGGED. + + THE GROUND SEEDS LEFT IN THE PERCOLATOR ARE DRIED AND SAVED. THEY ARE + GREAT FOR THROWING INTO THE FACES OF PEOPLE IN A MOB. IF YOU REALLY + WANT A LAUGH, THROW SOME BROADCAST FROM A THEATER BALCONY DURING THE + DEATH SCENE IN "LOVE STORY". + + THE GOODY CALLED MACE IS PROBABLY ONLY ACROLEIN. IF NOT, IT WORKS + JUST AS WELL AS MACE AND IS SIMPLE AND FUN TO PRODUCE. IT IS THE SAME + PRODUCT AS DESCRIBED ON PAGES 104 THROUGH 106 OF THE ANARCHIST + COOKBOOK. MINE HOWEVER, IS BROKEN DOWN AND SIMPLIFIED. + + ACROLEIN IS NOT TOXIC BUT CAUSES HORRIBLE PAIN IN THE NOSE AND + COPIOUS TEARS, AND IRRITATES THE SKIN. A SHOT IN THE FACE FROM A + WATER PISTOL OR SOME OTHER SPRAYER WILL PUT ANYONE OUT OF THE GAME + FOR AT LEAST HALF AN HOUR. + + ACROLEIN IS BEST MADE AND OUNCE AT A TIME. PUT IN THE FLASK 2 1/2 + OUNCES OF GLYCERINE AND 3/4 OUNCE OF SODIUM BISULFATE (SANI-FLUSH), + BOTH OF WHICH CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GROCERY STORE. + + THE STILL IS SET UP WITH THE OUTSIDE TUBE CONNECTED AS THE FUMES ARE + BAD. WHEN THE MIXTURE STARTS TO BUBBLE IT MUST BE WATCHED CONSTANTLY + TO MAKE SURE IT DOES NOT BUBBLE UP INTO THE NECK OF THE FLASK. IF IT + STARTS FOR THE NECK OF THE FLASK, REMOVE THE LAMP UNTIL IT SETTLES + DOWN. IF THE LAMP IS TOO HOT, THE TIN CAN IS RAISED ON SMALL BLOCKS + UNTIL THE RIGHT HEAT IS GOTTEN. + + DISTILL OFF AN OUNCE OF ACROLEIN AND TAKE AWAY THE LAMP. AN OUNCE IS + ALL THIS SIZE BATCH IS GOOD FOR. LET THE FLASK COOL FOR AND HOUR + BEFORE OPENING AND CLEANING. POUR THE RESIDUE DOWN THE SINK AND PUT + YOUR FACE OVER THE DRAIN TO GET A SAMPLE OF THE VAPOR. THEN CAP THE + RECEIVING BOTTLE AND WASH EVERYTHING THE ACROLEIN WAS IN CONTACT + WITH. THE BEST SQUIRTER FOR THE THREE IRRITANTS ABOVE IS A WATER + PISTOL. MOST WATER PISTOL. MOST WATER PISTOLS LEAK BADLY SO THEY + MUST BE TRANSPORTED BARREL UP SO THE GOODY WON'T OOZE OUT AROUND + THE TRIGGER. IT WILL LEAK WHEN YOU USE IT SO IT IS BEST TO PUT IN THE + PLASTIC SANDWICH BAG WITH THE OPENING HELD AROUND THE BARREL WITH + THE RUBBER BAND. IF THE IS PISTOL HAS A TRIGGER GUARD IT SHOULD BE CUT + OFF AND THEN IT CAN BE USED JUST AS EASILY IN A PLASTIC BAG AS + OTHERWISE. + + FOR CASUAL CARRYING AROUND, YOU CAN'T BEAT A NASAL SPRAY. THE BEST + ONES CAN BE SCREWED OPEN SO THE GOODY CAN BE POURED IN. IF NOT, YOU + HAVE TO SQUEEZE IT AND PUT ITS NOZZLE INTO THE GOODY. WHEN THE + PRESSURE IS RELEASED THE IRRITANT WILL BE SUCKED UP. + + SUCH IRRITANTS ARE ILLEGAL TO CARRY IN SOME STATES. THAT'S ONE OF THE + REASONS THE NASAL SPRAY IS BEST. IF YOU ARE SEARCHED AND IT IS FOUND, + THERE IS LITTLE CHANCE IT WILL BE RECOGNIZED FOR WHAT IT IS. I DON'T + KNOW WHAT ADVICE TO GIVE YOU IF THE COP HAS THE SNIFFLES AND GOES TO + USE SOME OF YOUR GOODY. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + >>>>>> C02 Cartridge Bombs <<<<<< + + You will have to use up the new cartridge by either shooting it in a + C02 B-B gun or use it in a C02 car or whatever else you might figure + out to do with it. With a nail, force the hole bigger so as to allow + the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black + powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the + cartridge on a hard surface. Insert a fuse (I recommend good + waterproof cannon fuse, but I've used firecracker fuses.) Light it + and run!!! It does wonders for a row of mail boxes. Be careful + however, this little beauty throws shrapnel and can be quite a + hazard. + + >>>>>>Thermite Bombs<<<<<< + + The first step in the construction of a thermite bomb is to get some + iron-oxide (rust). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a + short time: First you will need a DC converter which can be found on + a race track or train track. Cut the connector off, separate the two + wires, and strip them both. You will secondly need a jar of water + which has been diluted with salt to make the water a conductor (use + about a tablespoon.) Then insert both wires into the solution and + determine which bubbles the most. You then need to tie a common iron + nail to the one that bubbles the most (The positive wire). If you + don't you will get the opposite of rust...Rust acid! Put the nail + tied to the positive wire and the negative wire in the jar on + opposite sides until they are both completely submerged. Let that + set over night and then remove the (crusty) stuff off the nail and + remove the wires. Let this set until a sufficient amount of the + crust is at the bottom. Remove the excess water and pour the crusty + solution in a cookie sheet and let it dry out in the sun for a couple + of hours, or over night. It should be an orange-brown color, though + I've had it many different colors. Crush the rust into a fine powder + and heat it in a cast iron pot until it's red. (I'm not sure what + that does.) + + Now mix the iron-oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought + or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio should + be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum. That's thermite!!! + + Now, to light it you must get some magnesium which is sorta hard to + get for me cause my hardware store don't have it. I finally found + that I could get a perfect piece of magnesium ribbon from the + chemistry lab! This ribbon is the fuse of the bomb. It takes the + heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite...But to light + the magnesium you need a blow torch (Don't worry, the blow torch is + not hot enough to light the thermite). Well keep your thermite in a + bag and then when you see an innocent car...Pour a small amount of + thermite on the wood, stick a length of magnesium in it and then light + the magnesium with the blow torch and watch it burn right through the + hood, the block, the axle, and spark and flare on the pavement. Be + careful...The ideal mixtures can vaporize carbonized steel (Which is + damn hot!) Have fun! + + >>>>>>Touch Explosive<<<<<< + + This is sort of a mild explosive, but can be dangerous in large + quantities. To make touch explosive (Such as that found in a snap and + pop, but more potent) mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the + iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Let it + set until you get a white precipitate at the bottom...Pour off the + excess ammonia and dry out the crystals the same way as the thermite. + Be careful now cause these dried crystals are your touch explosives! + I haven't found a good use for it yet, but it's fun to throw at + people or leave it in their chairs at school..It can get painful if + applied properly! + + + >>>>>>Letter Bombs<<<<<< + + You will first have to make a mild version of thermite as mentioned + above, however you will use just plain iron filings instead of rust. + Mix the iron filing with the aluminum filings in a ratio of 75% + aluminum with 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in an + enclosed space (such as an envelope) which brings us to the next + ingredient. Go to the post office or business supply store and buy + an insulated (padded) envelope. The type that is double layered. + Separate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, + where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer + layer. There's your bomb. Now to light it! + + This is the tricky part and is hard to explain in writing. Experiment + with this idea until you have got it right. Ok, the fuse is just + that touch explosive placed where the letter would be torn open. You + may want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the + top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered + magnesium.) When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard + it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flashlight) and then + it will burn the mild thermite. I've never sent one of these so I + don't really know if it works good. I do know that the thermite burns + real hot and if it didn't blow up it would give some one a bad burn + (Thermite does wonders on human flesh!!) + + >>>>>>Paint Bombs<<<<<< + + To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal can with a fastenable + lid, a nice bright color paint, and a quantity of dry ice. Place the + paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the lid + on tightly and then run. With some testing you can get it down so + you have a timer that works on how much ice you have compared with + how much paint you have. If you're really pissed at someone, you + could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run!!! + Enough bombs....Let's work on cars. + + >>>>>>Ways to Send A Car To Hell<<<<<< + + There are a thousand and one ways to destroy a car but I will only + cover those which are most fun and hardest to find out about. + + Place thermite on the hood as mentioned above, place burning + magnesium on the hood, tape a Co2 bomb to the (axle, hood, wheel, + muffler, all), put a tampon, dirt, sugar, a ping pong ball, just + about anything) in the gas tank. Put (Potatoes, bananas, rocks, or + anything at all that will fit) in the exhaust pipe. Put a long rag in + the gas tank and catch it on fire (Run real far). Make a jimmey and + pick the lock and then steal the stereo....I'll try to draw a + picture...Cut one of those thin metal rulers into the pattern given + below: + + ____________________________________________________ ____ + |__| \ + sorta phallic huh? | + |--| / + ---------------------------------------------------- --- + + The important part are the notches on the sides which are used to + pull up on the cable which pulls up the lock! Get stereos, + equalizers, radar detectors, car guns, loose change and cassette + tapes, and then destroy the inside (a knife is handy for the seats.) + + >>>>>>Phone Related Vandalism<<<<<< + + If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able + to ruin someone's phone line very easily. All you must do is go to + their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their + line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major + lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually + underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen + the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a + bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable.. Cut it + into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced. There's a + week of work!!! Or you can do my favorite, call them with a + directory dialer for about a week...They won't get another call + besides yours for that entire week! How about calling the phone + company and having it disconnected for a while, or have their mail + held for a month or two (Say you're going on vacation and give them + their address.) + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ + ³ P H R E A K I N G ³ + ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ + + For those of you who don't know what the term PHREAKING means, it + refers to using the telephones to do your dirty deeds. This can + include making "Boxes" which trick the phone system into giving you + free calls and tapping. In this edition of the Spook Guide, I'll just + stick to simple Phreaking techniques. In issue two we'll get down and + dirty. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + Have you ever wanted to know what your brother/sister/parents/ + friends/enemies were saying as they hid somewhere, cordless phone in + hand? With this phile, now you can! Just follow the simple + instructions outlined inside. + + First some information about cordless telephones: + + The original cordless telephones (1978-about late 1983) were made to + be used on the 1.6 to 1.8 MHz band. If you will notice, 1.6 MHz is + also the top end of the AM broadcast band. These phones operate on + AM (just like the radio stations) and use the wiring in your house + for an antenna. The power of these phones is 1/10 of a watt in most + cases, or about 1/50th of the power that your average CB radio will + put out. So, not having a lot of power, it is tough to hear these + phones. You know how they say '500 foot range'? Sure, that's the + range of the handset to the base, but not of the signals emitted by + the base! Which means that on good nights you can hear them for + many miles (I live in NJ an have heard telephones VERY loudly from NY + City, 35 MILES away!). + + The newer phones, however, are not as easy to hear. They operate + on FM on the 49 MHz band, which is the same frequency which your + little walkie-talkies that you loved as a ten year old operate on. + These phones require a little bit more effort to be heard than do the + old ones (and a little $$$). Never fear, however, because about 1 + out of 10 phones is the old style, and they are still being made and + sold today. + + How To Do It: + + For the old style phones, you will need to get a pocket size AM + transistor radio. The one I used was an AM/FM Realistic (bought for + $9 at Radio Shack). There should be a small plastic box inside the + radio. This little 'box' is the VFO (Variable Frequency Oscillator) + which controlls the frequency of the radio. Now of course, you + aren't going to have a digital frequency counter (they only cost + $400, so everyone should have at least two of them) so before you do + anything, turn on the radio and tune to the top of the band and find + the station which is closest to the top of the broadcast band. Write + down the frequency so you have something to compare to later. + + Now, turn off the radio, get a small size screwdriver, and adjust the + small screw(s) on the back of the little plastic box. Don't turn + them more than a quarter turn at a time. Now, when you have done + your first 'tweak' of the screws, turn on the radio and see where + that station at the top of the band is now on the frequency dial. + When you have gotten the station 150-200 kHz down from where it was, + (like if the frequency was 1600, get it down between 1400 and 1450), + you are all set to recieve cordless telephones at the top end of the + radio! Note: this little 'trick' may not work as well on all radios, + but it is worth a try. If worse comes to worse, you can turn them + back. + + The ideal distance is a close to the base as you can get, but this + sucker should pull in signals from up to 500 feet away with no + problem. Simply go near someones house with this, and then have fun! + + Another way: Another way to do this, if the VFO adjustment trick + does'nt work, is to adjust the small metal boxes that have little + colored screws in them. These are the tuning coils for the reciever + circuit, and they affect the frequency also. Another possibility is + a combination of turning the VFO screws and the coils to try to get + the desired effect. Good Luck! + + Now for the tough ones, the new phones. The new phones work on the + 49 MHz band. You are going to need one of the 'new' walkie talkies + that operate on 49 MHz ===- FM -=== (the cheap shit ones are + AM). If you decide to invest in one at Radio Shack or similar store, + make damn sure you get FM walkie talkies. If you get AM, you're + screwed, unless you have a friend who is killer into electronics or + ham radio who has the knowledge to convert AM to FM. (Yes, it can be + done. I have done it with CB's, and it is great for CB because no + one can understand what you are saying unless they have a FM- + converted CB.....Hmm.....that may be my next text phile...look for + it!!) Anyway.....when you get your FM walkie talkie, you can do one + of two things: + + A) You can play the adjust the coils trick as mentioned in the last + article (there is no VFO because walkie talkies are crystal + controlled). + + B) You can change the crystal. Popular frequencies for cordless + phones are 49.830, 49.860 and 49.890 MHz. These crystals can be + obtained from electronic supply houses (like ones that sell chips for + your Apple) for about $2 or less each. + + And that just about concludes this phile. There are two other + shortcut methods that can be used to bypass this mess and get you + listening in right away. + + 1) Get a general coverage receiver. They cover all frequencies + from 100 kHz to 30 MHz, and will provide you with 'armchair' + reception because you can hook up a monster antenna. (I have a 1964 + vintage model that I got for $10 sitting on my desk with a 600 foot + long piece of wire for an antenna....boy, I know everything in my + neighborhood before the ladies start gossiping!) + + 2) If you play guitar or bass, and have a 'wireless' system for + your guitar like the Nagy 49R, you can hook up a 12 volt lantern + battery and go prowling around listening for the phones. (Bass + rules!) + + Method 1 only works on the old phones because of the frequency + limitations of the reciever, and method 2 is for new phones only + because the 'wireless' systems only work on 49 MHz FM. + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + B L A C K B O X + + NOTE: This only works on Crossbar Telephone systems. Make sure you + aren't on a ,,,, before trying this. + + A black box is a device that is hooked up to your phone, so when + you get a call, the caller doesn't get charged long distance. + This is good for up to 1/2 hour, after 1/2 hour the phone co. + gets suspicous, and then you can guess what happens. + + The way it works: + + What this little beauty does is keep the line voltage from + dropping to 10v when you answer your phone. The line is instead + kept at 36v and it will make the phone think that it is still + ringing while your talking. The reason for the 1/2 hour time + limit is that the phone co. thinks that something is wrong after + 1/2 an hour of ringing. + + All parts are available radio shack. Using the least possible + parts and arangement, the cost is $0.98 !!!! and that is parts + for two of them! Talk about a deal! If you want to splurge + then you can get a small PC board, and a switch. There are + two schematics for this box, one is for most normal phones. + The second one is for phones that don't work with the first. + It was made for use with a bell trimline touch tone phone. + + ** SCHEMATIC 1 FOR MOST PHONES ** ** + LED ON: BOX ON + + + FROM >--------------------GREEN-> TO + LINE >--! 1.8K LED !---RED--> PHONE + !--/\/\/\--!>--! + ! ! + ------>/<------- + SPST + + + + PARTS: 1 1.8K 1/2 WATT RESISTOR + 1 1.5V LED + 1 SPST SWITCH + + You may just have two wires which you connect together for the + switch. + + + ** SCHEMATIC 2 FOR ALL PHONES ** + ** LED ON: BOX OFF ** + + FROM >---------------GREEN-> TO + LINE >------- ---RED--> PHONE + ! LED ! + -->/<--!>-- + ! ! + ---/\/\/--- + 1.8K + + PARTS: 1 1.8K 1/2 WATT RESISTOR + 1 1.5V LED + 1 DPST SWITCH + + + Here is the PC board layout that I recommend using. It's neat + and very easy to hook up. + +SCHEMATIC #1 SCHEMATIC #2 + +************** **************** +* * * ------- * +* ----- * * ! ! * +* ! ! * * ! * +* RESISTOR ! * * ! ! ! * +* ! ! * * ! ! / * +* -------- ! * * ! ! \ * +* ! ! * * ! ! / * +* --SWITCH-- * * ! ! \ * +* ! ! * * ! ! / * +L * ! ! * F L * ! ! ! * F +I>RED- -RED>O I>RED- ---RED>O +N>-----GREEN---->N N>-----GREEN------>N +E * H * E E * * E +************** **************** + + + Once you have hooked up all the parts, you must figure out which + set of wires go to the line and which go to the phone. This is + because of the fact that led's must be put in, in a certain + direction. Depending on which way you put the LED is what controls + what wires are for the line and phone. + + How to find out: + + Hook up the box in one direction using one set of wires for line + and the other for phone. + + *NOTE* For model I switch should be off. + + *NOTE* For model ][ switch should be set to side connecting the + LED. + + Once you have hooked it up, then pick up the phone and see if the + led is on. If it is, the LED will be lit. If it doesn't light up + then switch the wires and try again. Once you know which are which + then label them. + + *NOTE* If neither directions worked then your switch was in the + wrong position. Now label the switch in its current position as + box on. + + How to use it: + + The purpose of this box is not for outgoing calls. It can only be + used for incoming calls. When the box is *on* then you may only + recieve calls. Your phone will ring like normal and the LED on + the box will flash. If you answer the phone now, then the led will + light and the caller will not be charged. Hang up the phone after + you are done talking like normal. You will not be able to get + a dial-tone or call when the box is on, so turn the box *off* + for normal calls. I don't recommend you don't want it to answer + when Ma Bell calls! + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + A N T I M O D E M W E A P O N + + + An effective modem weapon, especially on crossbar phone system. (Will + still operate on Ess but you will kill phone service to your prefix + for a few hours, and everyone talking will be cut off on your prefix + and the one yu called) + + What is this device? Its a Tesla Coil. The Tesla coil when proprly + used will generate literally thousands or volts at very low amperage. + (Just the right current to bake silicon chip cookies.) + + SET UP + + 1. Disconnect all phones from your line. Disconnect answering dvices + and any data-transmission devices. + + 2. Run a preliminary test on the coil and disconnect nearby grounded + objects. (Lamps Stereos, TV's etc...) + + 3. Connect one phone that you see fit to subject.(It usually des not + destroy phones, (But I have seen them melt off walls.) + + 4. Connect iron or steel balls to the green and red wires of yor + connected phone (these are the line wires that go into the wall.) l1 + ad l2 terminals of your phone. + + 5. Put on a pair of thick rubber gloves (EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!) + + 6. Charge coil to at least 10,000 volts. An ideal setting is arund 18 + to 19 thousand, but 10 will jump Bells line surge protectors. + + 7. Hold metal balls in your left hand. (Make sure they don't toch + each other) When the coil is fully charged, clip the steel ball + cnnected to the red wire to the base of the tesla coil and hold the + other metal ball as far away from the coil as you can. + + 8. Dial the offending modems number. + + 9. When connected, move the metal object connected to the gree wire + within 2 feet of the coils top. + + -> Don't be afraid of the little bolts at the top of the coil... + + 10. Within 3 seconds a huge bolt of lightning will shoot forth at the + phone from the hand that you are holding the balls in. + + Hold on tight cause it'll feel like loads of ants crawling on you! + You will immediatly hear many strange oscilations to the carrier on + the phone. The last noise you will hear is a pop! from the phone. + That is the last cry of agony as it shuts down. Crossbar just + disconnects. + + Guaranteed to fry the modem, the computer and any peripherals. or + anyone who answers the phone! + + ALL DAMAGE IS UN-REPAIRABLE. + including lives!!! + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ + ³ D R U G S ³ + ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ + + Okay, you've ripped off people, blown them up and set fire to the + city. After a hard day's work it's time to kick back. Here's some + tips on making and growing drugs to help you relax. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + MARIJUANA: HOME GROWING + + First get some seeds. From either your stash or a friend. You will + have to first germinate your seeds (You could just stick em' in the + soil and wait but WHY?) + + +To germinate: Get a clear plastic cassette and stick the + seed/seeds in then wrap with wet paper towel. + It will eventually dry, but keep the paper on + the outside wet. Soon sprouts should appear + +To begin: Get a planting pot either small or large + (Large is better, but if you don't have one + use a small one then get a larger one in + the future). Fill the pot with some enriched + soil and moisten overnight. Now your ready to + start! + +To start: CAREFULLY place the germinated seed/seeds in the + soil. Then place in direct light. If you want an + outdoor plant then place outdoors in a secluded + area away from the general public. The plant + needs light. Try to have the sun/light on it all + day. After a period of a few weeks the plant + should be getting bigger, if not then start + the process all over. You might have a stunted + plant. + +To maintain: Go get some Miracle Grow plant food. The rose + kind is perfect. Follow the directions on the + box to feed. Water at least 3 times a week and + trim if necessary. Try some chicken guts or + some light manure to help the process along. + Wait till plant is 6-12" in height then + you must transplant it. + +To transplant: Did you get that big planter yet? Get a LARGE + planter at a garden store and fill with fresh + soil. Moisten overnight again. Fertilize lightly + with manure or Miracle Grow if possible. Now + dig a hole in the center and make room for the + old plant. Grab the small pot in your left hand + and use your right forefinger and middle finger + and carefully grasp the bottom stem and flip + upside down. The plant should pop out with the + pot shaped soil connected to the roots. + Carefully break up the soil as you place it in + the hole in the new pot. Try not to damage the + roots or the plant itself or it might go into + shock. When it is firmly seated in the new soil + pat it down with some new soil until level. + Follow the above maintaining tips for the remainder + of the growth. You will need a magnifying glass + to look at the glands when ready. A female plant + should have little "buds" growing. If you see + flowers it is a male plant. The glands will be large + and look like little sacs ready to burst THC. + Then you will know you are ready to harvest + (Approx. 5-7 months later) + +To harvest: Either uproot the plant or cut the stem at the + base. Turn the whole plant or sections upside- + down. Hang it somewhere in the sun. If you keep + it in the dark it may become moldy and worthless. + after a week or so it should be dry enough to + package/or smoke. Do not smoke stem or seed, + other than not getting you high, it will give you + a splitting headache. + + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + ASSORTED DRUGS + + In no way am I responsible for for any injuries caused by the + use/misuse of these drugs. You should treat these drugs like + alcohol. Use them only as an added experience in life, rather than as + an escape. + + These recipes are all found in a book which has reliable sources. All + should work if made properly. + + MAKING L.S.D. AT HOME + + 1] Grind up 150 grams of morning glory seeds or baby hawaiian wood + rose seeds. + + 2] In 130 c.c. of petroleum ether soak the seeds for 2 days. + + 3] Filter the solution through a tight screen. + + 4] Throw away liquid, and allow seeds mush to dry. + + 5] For 2 days allow the mush to soak in 110 c.c. of wood alcohol. + + 6] Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it '1' + + 7] Resoak the mush in 110 c.c. of wood alcohol for 2 days. + + 8] Filter and throw away mush. + + 9] Add liquid from the second soak to the liquid labeled '1'. + + 10] Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate. + + 11] When all liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. this + should be scraped and put in capsules. + + 30 grams of morning glory seeds + - or - + 15 hawaiian wood rose seeds + - equals - + + one trip + + ** Note ** Many companies have been known to coat their seeds with + toxin. order seeds from a wholesaler. + + + BANANDINE (Made from bananas) + + Bananas do contain a small quantity of a mild short lasting + psychedelic drug. There are better ways of getting high but the great + advantage of this is that bananas are legal (of course!) + + 1] Obtain 15 lbs of ripe yellow bananas + + 2] Peel them all, eat the chow, keep the peels. + + 3] With a sharp knife, scrape off the insides of the peelings, and + save the scraped material. + + 4] Put all scraped material in a large pot and add water. Boil for + three to four hours until it has attained a solid paste. + + 5] Spread this paste on cookie sheets and dry in oven for about 20 + min. to a half an hour. This will result in a fine black powder roll + it up and smoke about 3-4 of those dudes + + PEANUTS + + 1] Obtain a pound of peanuts. + + 2] Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells. + + 3] Pork out on the nuts while watching dr. who one night. + + 4] Grind up the skins, roll them, smoke them. + + TOAD SKINS (you're crazy!!) + + 1] collect 5-10 toads + + 2] kill them as painlessly as possible and skin them as soon as + possible! + + 3] allow skins to dry on the fridge for 4 to 5 days, or until they + are brittle. + + 4] crush into a powder and smoke. Due to the bad taste, mix it with + mint or something else. + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + + ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ + ³ A P P E N D I X ³ + ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ + + Household Names for Chemicals + + + Chemical name Household Name + ------------- -------------- + + acetic acid vinegar + aluminum oxide alumia + aluminum potassium sulfate alum + aluminum sulfate alum + ammonium hydroxide ammonia + carbon carbonate chalk + calcium hypochloride bleaching powder + calcium oxide lime + calcium sulphate plaster of Paris + carbonic acid seltzer + carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid + ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid + ferric oxide iron rust + glucose corn syrup + graphite black lead (pencil lead) + hydrochloric acid muriatic acid + hydrogen peroxide peroxide + lead acetate sugar of lead + lead tetroxide red lead + magnesium silicate talc + magnesium sulfate Epsom salts + naphthalene mothballs + phenol carbolic acid + potassium bitartrate cream of tartar + potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum + potassium nitrate saltpeter + silicon dioxide sand + sodium bicarbonate baking soda + sodium borate borax + sodium carbonate washing soda + sodium chloride salt + sodium hydroxide lye + sodium silicate water glass + sodium sulfate Glauber's salt + sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo + + + These are some of the ingredients used in these Anarchy Documents! So + if you get confused by the name, refer to these! + + ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ + END OF SPOOK FILE 1 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sq-0112.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sq-0112.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..32810038 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sq-0112.txt @@ -0,0 +1,216 @@ + ______________ + / ___________ \ __ __ __ + / / _________\_/ {_¯ / ¯7 | | ·· / ¯_ + / /__/ __ ___ \ _ ¯)(_ _½(_ _)||(_ ¯7 + /______/ / / \ \ ¯¯¯ ¯ ¯ ¯¯ + _________/ /____/ / (SQUIG) + / _______ _____ / Gives to you: +/ / / / / / +\ \_____/ /____/ / Improved KNO3 + sugar + \______________/ version 1.2 + +Version 1.2 +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +How to read and understand the filename: + + SQ-0112.doc + +SQ- Identifier... (SQ is short for Squig) +01 Textnr. in HEX ie. 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F 10 +12 Versionnr. also this in HEX. (12 means 1.2) +.doc Tells you that this is a document. + +Introduction +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +This is a low-order explosive that is easily made from +household chemicals, but it doesn't mean that it's +harmeless. The only dangerous stage is the manufacture, +but if you follow my hints and tips it will be relatively +safe. + Two of my friends tried once to produce this 'explosive' +when I just had discovered it a couple of years ago. +They didn't understand exactly when I told them to do. +So they cooked all the wather away and it almost melted +their micro, and somehow they managed to get it out but +then dropped it and got a real black nasty stain on their +floor, luckily nothing worse happened and nobody got hurt. + Ok, but I will tell you how to do, and remember, you're +doing this on your own risc! + +HINT: Read it all through before you start. + +Improved KNO3 + sugar by Squig +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +Hardware you need: + cooking pan, frying pan or a tin can + heat source + bakingsheet + spoon + [ thick alumineum foil ] + +Chemicals you need: + All measured by weight. + 5 parts sugar (ordinary white sugar) + 6 parts potassium nitrate (also known as salt peter) + could be bought from any standard shop in Sweden + as 'salpeter' or 'kalisalpeter' (Swedish) +[1/2 parts ferrum oxide (rust) ] + wather (any clear wather) + +Procedure: +(1) Mix the KNO3 and sugar well (it should be white, + if not, you have done something REALLY wrong, + you better go and play some videogames) +(2) Add the powder to the wather, everything should + be solved. (It should be in the pan now) + + HINT: Start with a small amount of wather, when + nothing more will be solved, add some more. + +(3) Let it boil and stir ie. every 5 minutes until + skin is forming on the surface. + Then stir once, if the skin reforms in less + than a second it's ready. + + HINT: Be careful so nothing comes on the + hot heatsource, cause then it will + start burning. + + You can let it cook until it's a sticky syrup, + but I usually do like this. +(4) If you let it continue to boil then add the + rust now (if you want to) +(5) Pour the liquid (semi-liquid atleast) on the + baking sheet (preferrably om alumineum foil) +(6) Let the wather evaporate, 'stir' 2 times every + day until it's totally dry. +(7) Put it in a mortar and smash it to a fine powder. + It has never reacted on friction for me, so I + suppose it's not so dangerous now. +(8) If you haven't added the rust (and still want to) + do it now. +(9) It should be ready to use now. (see later in doc + for examples) + +Uses (bombs and fireworks) +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +Simple firecracker: + Just take a plastic or paper container and fill it with + your newly made powder. If your doing a _small_ firecracker + you can just insert a fuse in one end ond pour som glue + that woun't dissolve the fuse to seal the container. + If you're doing something bigger, make a hole in the + box (tube or wathever you wish) and insert the fuse before + you fill it. see diagram below: + + SIMPLE FIRECRACKER DIAGRAM 1 + + |*GLUE*I + I%%%%%%I + IPOWDERI + I%%%%%%I + I%%%%%%---------- FUSE + I%%%%%%I + I%%%%%%I + I%%%%%%I + I******I + +Simple firecracker 2: + Take a small container with a lid which can easily be + 'popped' off, thus NO lid that you'll have to screw off! + (preferrably the one you store films for cameras in) + Make a small hole with a needle cloose to the bottom with + a needle. If your fuse doesn't fit just make the hole + bigger with a ballpoint pen. + Now, insert the fuse, atleast 1 or 2 cm of the fuse must + be inside the container. + Mixture: + 3 parts coal. + 4 parts fine crushed KNO3-sugar mixture. + 1 part KNO3-sugar grains. (See 'Smoke corridors' if + you already have grinded all you mix.) + + Just mix it all together and put it in the container, + and it will burn well, even if you only fill half the + tin. (container) + This one is great scaring people with =) Just put it + somewhere there nobody will expect it. And ofcource, + don't put it anywhere it can start a fire because + first the lid will pop off, then it will smoke a lot + and emit hot sparks. And if you use a small light + container it will certainly NOT stay in the same place + for very long. So be careful! + +Rocket engines: + Mix your powder with some coal to make it burn slower. + Take a carboard tube and seal one end (however you want) + Mix some powder with a small amount of alcohol so it + become a (sticky) paste and fill the tube with it. + It should be quite compact. Insert a fuse (and glue it + in place if necessary). Let it dry. + Put the thing on a stick (you now how a rocket i built) + Light the fuse, and if you're lucky it might fly away. + +Smoke corridors: + If you're just going to use it as a smoker, don't mash + the powder. And if you've alreade done so, just mix it + with a SMALL amount of wather so it will become a bit + sticky. Then let it dry. + And add any rust, 'cause the rust makes the smoke smell + like wather (a bit like oxygene too) and the smoke + disappear much faster. Not much else to say. + +Smelly smoke: + Mix the powder with a small amount of butter (with extra + salt) A bit inspiration from The Library, see end of doc. + You could also take a small amount of iodine chrystals, + you should get a purple smoke, which is not very healthy. + +You could do alot with this, just use your imagination. + +Excuses +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +Sorry 'bout my rather bad English and selection of words, +but I'm quite young and havn't studied English for so +many years. +And I'm not a chemestry genius, but I find it entertaing +with pyrotechnics and explosives =) +I hope there isn't any errors in this texfile and hope +you find it entertaining. (Also hope you don't kill or +hurt yourself or anybody else) +You probably find this textfile very 'basic' but I don't +want any misunderstandings, and those silly hints, I only +write them in case you should suffer from a blackout or +just didn't think of them. + +Duh, couldn't figure out an aproative headline +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +How it works (I think atleast): +The sugar burns (you can test it yourself) and extracts +oxygene from the salt peter (it is KNO3 and O=Oxygene if +you didn't know) + +The End +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +Some greets to people I admire: + Thallion and The Effacer of Swedish Infomania, HeXOr + +And some I know: + Josh / TwD, Ajax / TwD, Parch / X-Trade + +Not many, ehh.. + +Recomended reading: + The Library by Swdish Infomania (Swedish) + Advancerad kemi and (Swedish) + Svensk Standard by HeXOr (Swedish) + +Phone: + Synchron City.. +46(0)431-17506 + TwD BBS.. +46(0)63-31108 + +'Bugs come in through open windows' + + +EOF + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sq-lunch.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sq-lunch.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..cebf55ff --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sq-lunch.txt @@ -0,0 +1,113 @@ + ______________ + / ___________ \ __ __ __ + / / _________\_/ {_¯ / ¯7 | | ·· / ¯_ + / /__/ __ ___ \ _ ¯)(_ _½(_ _)||(_ ¯7 + /______/ / / \ \ ¯¯¯ ¯ ¯ ¯¯ + _________/ /____/ / (SQUIG) + / _______ _____ / Gives to you: +/ / / / / / +\ \_____/ /____/ / Build yer own rocketlauncher + \______________/ version 1.0 + +This is probably not the best rocketlauncher ever made, +but I hope it will work properly and don't blow you +apart. =) + +You need: + Big pipe, anykind of pipe you find suitable. + preferrably plastic but drainpipe might work. + Pipe cap that fits the pipe very good. + Tiny vent that fits your gas can. (lighter) + Alot of gas cans that fits your vent. (alround gas + for lighters) + Spark plug. + Battery to the spark plug. + Switch, the kind that pops back when you release it. + Cables. + Strong tape. + Something to fire with the same diameter as the pipe. + (that fits exactly in the pipe!) +[Something small that stops the projectile from sliding] +[ over to the end of the pipe. ] + Drill with two drills, one the same diameter as the vent + and the other as the spark plug. + Epoxy glue. + +About the pipe +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +* It should be quite thick so it woun't break. +* It should still be light enough to carry. (and aim) +* It should not be to wide, becuse it will take longer time + to reload. I think 5 cm would be good. +* It shold not be to short, atleast 1 meter. +* The ammo must fit very tightly in the pipe. + +The construction +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +First, take the pipe and drill two holes in it, one for the +vent and the other for the spark plug. I think it would be best +if you put the refill hole (vent) on the top within 5 cm of +the back edge, and the spark plug hole on the pipe cap. +Screw the cap on the pipe and glue so it will stay in place. +Put the spark plug in the hole you made for it and glue well +with epoxy. Mount the vent in its hole. +Make the following circuit: + +--- + I _ + I +-----------o------ (+) + <==I + | +------------------ (-) + | +--- + +<==I Spark plug mounted in pipe +- or + Cable +(+) and (-) Battery poles + _ +--o-- Switch + +You can attach the electronics to the pipe with some tape. +Let the glue dry. +Now you can try it by filling it with some gas and then +pressing your button and the gas should go +(Swedish sound) and you can see some flames (don't put your +face above the nozzle when firing) +If you want to, you can attach a small plastic or metal piece +inside the pipe that prevents the ammo from blocking the vent. + + VENT +-------------------------O-- + II I + I SPARK PLUG + <==I + I + I +---------------------------- + +You can also make grips on the pipe or something else that +stops it from flying away when fired. =) + +This file is not one of my most serious! + +The End +¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ +Some greets to people I admire: + Thallion and The Effacer of Infomania, HeXOr + +And some I know: + Josh / TwD, Parch / X-Trade + +Not many, ehh.. + +Recomended reading: + The Library by Infomania (Swedish) + Advancerad kemi by HeXOr (Swedish) + The Jolly Rogers cookbook by The Jolly Roger + +Phone: + Synchron City.. Good BBS + TwD BBS.. +46(0)63-31108.. Good normal BBS + +EOF + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sr1.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sr1.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3113d006 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sr1.ana @@ -0,0 +1,207 @@ + ---------------------- + -- -- + -- How to make -- + -- Sugar Rockets -- + -- -- + --Written & Typed by-- + -- Cloaked Warrior -- + -- -- + ---------------------- + +Combine these 3 substances in the following proportions by weight: + + Potassium Nitrate.......63% + Sugar...................27% + Sulfur..................10% +(you can by this stuff at the drug store) + +Note: use a diet scale or a gun reloading scale to measure the ingredients + + +What to do with the chemicals +----------------------------- +Put the 3 combined chemicals into a plastic refrigerator container with a very +tight lid (use a soft margarine container). Now be sure that the lid is on +TIGHT. Shake the container for about three minutes. You just made the rocket +propellant! This should be a yellowish powder... + + +Making the Casing(s) +------------------- +Items needed: + 2 inch wide gummed, brown paper packaging tape + Scotch tape + 1 foot length of 1/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel + single edged razor blade + wet sponge + +Cover the hardwood dowel with several strips of Scotch tape (layed lengthwise +onto the dowel). Now cut a strip of gummed paper packaging tape (8 in. long) +and lay it, gummed side DOWN, on a flat surface. Dampen all but the last inch +of the back of the tape with a wet sponge. Turn the tape over and start at the +dampened end, start rolling it up around the Scotch-tape-covered dowel. After +having one layer of tape around the dowel, moisten the GUMMED side of the rest +of the tape and roll it up around the dowel as tightly as possible. + +Problem(s): + +Many times the paper tape will start to run off to one side or the other. You +can correct it like this (example-run off to the LEFT): + +Use a single edged razor blade to the unrolled portion of the tape right next +to the roll. Start the slit at the LEFT edge of the tape and cut across the +tape to within 1/4/ of an inch of the RIGHT edge. Once the tape has been +partially cut, pull it to the RIGHT and correct the mistake. (Or vice-versa) + +LAST STEP IN MAKING THE CASING: when done rolling a casing, hold the last edge +of the tape against a flat surface for a few moments; then slide the casing off +the dowel and ALLOW IT TO DRY...you can also bake the casing(s) in your kitchen +oven at 160 degrees (F) for about 30 minutes... + + +Making the Nozzles +------------------ +Items needed: + Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty + Epoxy Glue (part A and part B) + 'Six Penny' (3/32") Ungalvanized finishing nails + (quantity: amount of casings made) + one length of 1/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel + a 7/64 inch diameter drill bit + a 1/8 inch diameter drill bit + +'Six Penny' finishing nails are about 3/32 inch in diameter. You will now make +the core of your rocket(s). Instead of using finishing nails you may use piano +wire that have the same diameter. You must pack the propellant down around the +finishing nails or piano wire., then removing it when you're finished. + +Problem(s): +The finishing nails have a little row of grooves right near the head. This +will cause problems as you pull the finished rockets of the nail, so piano +wire is prefered. + +The nozzle is made of the putty. To one you are first going to form a little +1/4 inch long plug of putty in one end of each casing. You MUST only form a +1/4 inch long plug of putty otherwise... + +We are now going to tell you how to make a gauge (in case you use too much +putty or too little than required). Cut off a six inch length of the 1/4 inch +hardwood dowel that you bought to use the casing with. Wrap about a dozen +layers of masking tape around it so that one edge of the masking tape is +EXACTLY 1-3/4 inches from one end of the dowel. Slide a casing over the dowel +and run the end of it up against this edge of the tape. If you look in the +open end of the casing, you will see a cavity exactly 1/4 of an inch deep. +Pack this cavity full of putty (not yet). + +Mix the putty with water in a small tuna can to the appproximate consistency +of stiff bread dough. You can pack each cavity by simply pressing a wad of +putty into the end of the casing with your finger and wiping the excess of with +your thumb. Try to avoid creating air pockets or bubbles. After your done +with this, SLOWLY remove the dowel depth gauge. Then let it sit to dry for +a day or lay them on a cookie cheet in the oven and heat them at 140-160 +degrees (F), depending on how many you made, for an hour to an hour and 30 min. +After the putty is hard and dry, drill a 7/64 inch diameter hole completely +through the center of each putty plug. If I were you, I would use a power +drill. But a hand drill is okay if you are careful and patient. + +Now I will show you how to make a jig to hold the casings upright so drilling +a hole in each putty plug won't be a tough job. Get a thick block of wood and +drill 3/8 inch diameter holes in it and stand the casings, putty ends UP, in +the holes in the block. Mount your 7/64 inch drill bit in your drill press, +and start drillin' a hole in each putty plug. Get each hole well entered, so +work CAREFULLY. + + +Loading the Propellant +---------------------- +The sugar rocket that you are making are core-burners. To make a core-burner, +simply pack the propellant down around a dowel or mandrel. When the mandrel +is removed, it leaves behind a hollow core. The mandrel I used was a short +length of 3/32 inch diameter piano wire (well you can use a finishing nail or +piano wire). The core has to be about 1-1/4 inch long. The core starts at the +inside edge of the nozzle plug and extends to the inside edge of the forward +bulkhead plug. The nozzle plug is 1/4 of an inch thick, so the mandrel should +be 1-1/2 inch long. To make a mandrel, use a small hammer to pound on a six +penny finishing nail into a block of wood. Then use a pair of wire cutters to +snip it off to a length of exactly 1-1/2 inches. If you are using piano wire +and not finishing nails then do this: + +Drill a 3/32 inch diameter hole in the block. Roughen up one end of the wire +with sandpaper or a file and glue the roughen end of the wire into the hole +in block with epoxy glue. When the glue is completely hard, grind the wire +to length with a grinding wheel. + + X = Quanity of +If you made X rockets, make X mandrels on ONE block of wood (or a few blocks +if you made about 100 rockets). To use this, set each rocket casing, drilled +end DOWN, over each mandrel (you're ready to load them). + + + +LOADING THE ROCKETS: + +Step One +-------- +To load the propellant, you must pack it down around the mandrel(s), so the +tamp that you use must have a hole drilled right in its center and deeper than +the length of the madrel wire inside the paper casing. Here is how to make the +tamp. Cut a 4 inch length of 1/4 inch hardwood dowel, sand the ends square, +stand it upright under the drill press, and drill a 1/8 inch diameter hole +right down the center of the dowel to a depth of 1-1/2 inches. You can also +use a brass or aluminum rod to make a nicer tamp instead of using the dowel. +But DO NOT USE STEEL! It is for your safety. + +Note: If you have access to a machine lathe, the job will be much easier... + +Step Two +-------- +Next, make a paper funnel and place it over the open rocket casing, and fill it +with about 1/8 teaspoon of sugar-based rocket propellant. Use a small stick or +wire and poke it down into casing. Remove the funnel and insert the tamp you +made (drilled end DOWN) into the end of the casing. Pack the propellant down +around the wire mandrel by striking the tamp with a small hammer. Repeat this +step (3) until the tamped powder reaches the top of the mandrel. Wad up some +tissue paper, or paper towel, and pound it in on top of the powder. This +plug keeps the epoxy glue used to plug the front of the rocket from running +down and sticking to the madrel. Once the tissue plug is in place, fill the +rest of the casing with epoxy glue. After it has hardened, twist and pull +each rocket casing off of the mandrel. + + +Priming and Firing +------------------ +Go to a gun shop and buy a can of FFFF Fine black powder. + +Priming the Rocket(s) +--------------------- +To prime or fuse one these rockets stand it on end, nozzle-UP, and use a small +paper trough to fill the entire core hole up to the top with the black powder +you bought. Now you must cap it. Put about a teaspoon of the powder into a +jar and add water a few drops at a time, stirring with a stick as you go, until +the mixture is about the consistency of toothpaste. Then you take a small dab +of this powder paste on the tip of your finger and smear it over the nozzle +hole of the rocket that you just fused (primed). Make sure that the hole is +completely covered. Now just set the rocket(s) aside to allow the paste (cap) +to dry for about 30 minutes or so. + +Firing the Rocket(s) +-------------------- +The easiest way to launch the rocket(s) is to glue it onto a guide stick. You +can use hibachi sticks or shish kabob skewers. You can use a drop of instant +cyanoacrylate model cement or just use white glue and masking tape to glue on +the sticks. To ignite the rocket(s), you can use an electric igniter or just +tape a filament of wire from a piece of coarse steel wool over the priming cap, +attach each end to an electrical lead or alligater clips. Attach leads to a +strong battery (6-9 volts or a car battery), and fire by closing a switch to +complete the circuit. The current will make the steel wool wire glow red hot, +causing it to burn and ignite the priming cap... + + +How 'bout an Option: + +A slow lift off: Prime or fuse with pyrodex or don't fill the core all the way +to the top with black powder. Put a little in.... + + +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS 304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sr2.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sr2.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..04b652a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sr2.ana @@ -0,0 +1,120 @@ + ------------------- + -- -- + --Cloaked Warrior-- + -- -- + --P r e s e n t s-- + Improving your Rocket + -- -- + ----------------- + +Cloaked Warrior + +Be sure that you have read the file 'How to Make Sugar Rockets' before reading +this file. This file is actually Part II of that File.... + +------------ +ENHANCEMENTS +------------ + +Time Delays & Special Effects +----------------------------- +In order to provide room for time delays (et cetera), you will need a longer +rocket casing. So go out to the store again and buy wider brown packaging tape +(3 in. instead of 2 in.). But the thing is that this type of tape is not sold +in most stores, so go look in a phone book for large paper suppliers that sell +packaging supplies. To make a rocket casing with a time delay, you just have +to follow the instructions in Part I (How to Make Sugar Rockets) except (there +are some changes): + +1> Use the 3 in. packaging tape to make a 3 in. casing. +2> When loading the propellant, instead of stopping at the top of the mandrel, + continue working, using the flat, undrilled end of the tamp, and pack an + extra 1/2 inch of propellant in on top of the mandrel. +3> You will need to form a tiny hole through the epoxy glue plug, to do this, + (after packing the propellant) stick a large sewing needle into the + propellant right at the edge of the rocket casing, you then press it into + the delay powder to a depth of 1/8 of an inch, now firmly pack in your wad + of tissue paper or paper towel and then pour in the front plug of epoxy. +4> After the glue dries and hardens, use a pair of small pliers to twist and + pull the needle out of the epoxy, leaving a tiny pin-hole through the plug. + +Now you're all ready to go... + + +Making a 'Pop' sound and smoke +------------------------------ +To make a 'pop' and some smoke at the end of the rocket's flight is easy. +All you have to do is fill up the pin hole with black powder or Pyrodex powder +and add another 1/19 of a gram (1/2 as much as you used to prime the rocket). +Press in a another wad of tissue paper (or towel) and pour another epoxy cap on +top of that. When the falme inside the rocket reaches the front of the time +delay powder, it will flash through the pin hole and ignite the powder. This +is how to make a fire cracker like 'pop' and a puff of smoke at the end of its +flight. Making the flames a certain color is also desirable. Well, it is very +simple. If you want a green flame when it is lauched, this is what you do: + +Go out and buy some Copper Sulfate (powder). Then you glue the powder on +to the rocket casing(s) at the ends all the way around. Use Elmer's glue to +do this. And that's it! When the rocket is ignited, it will be launched as +the Copper Sulfate burns (Elmer's glue melts), causing green flames. You may +use other chemicals to produce different colors. But be sure to use the slow +lift-off option that was explained in the Part I (so that you can observe it). + + +Making a Nose Cone for better Performance +----------------------------------------- +To make your rocket(s) fly better, you will need to make a nose cone. Make +something like a witch's hat out of paper and masking tape and glue it onto +the nose of each rocket. This should not require any assistance (I assume +that you must know how to make a nose cone. It shaped like a funnel.) + + +Using the Time Delay to Pop a Parachute +--------------------------------------- +To pop a parachute, fill the pin hole with black powder and add a very SMALL +amount of powder on top of this. Then cut a disk of stiff paper from a +3 x 5 inch file card about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, and using on end of +your powder tamp, press the paper disk into the nose of the rocket on top of +the loose powder (be sure that you have not made a nose cone and have glued +it onto the rocket). + + +Second Stage Rocket +------------------- +If you want to have your rocket ignite a second stage, then use a single edged +razor blade to cut the excess length of the cassing off right at front of the +front plug. Then fill the pin-hole with loose powder and cap the FRONT of the +rocket with the powder ppaste just as you did to the back end when priming it +for firing. Make sure the front of the rocket is marked, once te ends are +capped, you won't be able to tell which end is which. When igniting a second +stage, place the priming cap of the second stage engine in contact with the +front end cap or first stage motor. When the flame in the first stage motor +reaches the front of the time delay powder, it will ignite the cap at its +front, which in turn will light the priming cap of the second stage engine. + + +Making a Second Stage Stick Rocket +---------------------------------- +When you make a second stage stick rocket, you will need a longer stick to +balance the extra weight and you will have to connect the two stages so that +the second stage can slide easily away from the first after the first is spent. +Wrap a single layer of paper tape around the fron of the booster engine (first +stage motor), so that the tape is glued to the front of the booster but sticks +1/2 an inch out in from of the finished, capped engine. After the glue dries, +you can slide the tail of the second stage into this paper sleeve off the first +until the priming cap of the second stage mmotor touches the front cap of the +first. Glue or tape the longer guide stick to the second stage engine, leaving +the first stage engine and its paper sleeve free. (Note: This two stage stick +rocket is 2 rocket casings connected to a longer stick. This is an easier +explaination.) + + +Substitutions & Misc. +--------------------- +You can mix white baking flour with epoxy glue if you cannot get the water +putty. Instead of getting flowers of sulfur, you can get dusting sulfur at +a nursery or fertilizer supplier. Dusting sulfur will result in a better +rocket. Never put the 3 chemicals (sulfur, saltpetre, and sugar) in a blender, +if you do, you'll get a real big kick out of it... + +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS 304-744-2253 diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/srocket1.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/srocket1.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..7e17b85e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/srocket1.txt @@ -0,0 +1,213 @@ + + + ---------------------- + -- -- + -- How to make -- + -- Sugar Rockets -- + -- -- + --Written & Typed by-- + -- Cloaked Warrior -- + -- -- + ---------------------- + +Combine these 3 substances in the following proportions by weight: + + Potassium Nitrate.......63% + Sugar...................27% + Sulfur..................10% +(you can by this stuff at the drug store) + +Note: use a diet scale or a gun reloading scale to measure the ingredients + + +What to do with the chemicals +----------------------------- +Put the 3 combined chemicals into a plastic refrigerator container with a very +tight lid (use a soft margarine container). Now be sure that the lid is on +TIGHT. Shake the container for about three minutes. You just made the rocket +propellant! This should be a yellowish powder... + + +Making the Casing(s) +------------------- +Items needed: + 2 inch wide gummed, brown paper packaging tape + Scotch tape + 1 foot length of 1/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel + single edged razor blade + wet sponge + +Cover the hardwood dowel with several strips of Scotch tape (layed lengthwise +onto the dowel). Now cut a strip of gummed paper packaging tape (8 in. long) +and lay it, gummed side DOWN, on a flat surface. Dampen all but the last inch +of the back of the tape with a wet sponge. Turn the tape over and start at the +dampened end, start rolling it up around the Scotch-tape-covered dowel. After +having one layer of tape around the dowel, moisten the GUMMED side of the rest +of the tape and roll it up around the dowel as tightly as possible. + +Problem(s): + +Many times the paper tape will start to run off to one side or the other. You +can correct it like this (example-run off to the LEFT): + +Use a single edged razor blade to the unrolled portion of the tape right next +to the roll. Start the slit at the LEFT edge of the tape and cut across the +tape to within 1/4/ of an inch of the RIGHT edge. Once the tape has been +partially cut, pull it to the RIGHT and correct the mistake. (Or vice-versa) + +LAST STEP IN MAKING THE CASING: when done rolling a casing, hold the last edge +of the tape against a flat surface for a few moments; then slide the casing off +the dowel and ALLOW IT TO DRY...you can also bake the casing(s) in your kitchen +oven at 160 degrees (F) for about 30 minutes... + + +Making the Nozzles +------------------ +Items needed: + Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty + Epoxy Glue (part A and part B) + 'Six Penny' (3/32") Ungalvanized finishing nails + (quantity: amount of casings made) + one length of 1/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel + a 7/64 inch diameter drill bit + a 1/8 inch diameter drill bit + +'Six Penny' finishing nails are about 3/32 inch in diameter. You will now make +the core of your rocket(s). Instead of using finishing nails you may use piano +wire that have the same diameter. You must pack the propellant down around the +finishing nails or piano wire., then removing it when you're finished. + +Problem(s): +The finishing nails have a little row of grooves right near the head. This +will cause problems as you pull the finished rockets of the nail, so piano +wire is prefered. + +The nozzle is made of the putty. To one you are first going to form a little +1/4 inch long plug of putty in one end of each casing. You MUST only form a +1/4 inch long plug of putty otherwise... + +We are now going to tell you how to make a gauge (in case you use too much +putty or too little than required). Cut off a six inch length of the 1/4 inch +hardwood dowel that you bought to use the casing with. Wrap about a dozen +layers of masking tape around it so that one edge of the masking tape is +EXACTLY 1-3/4 inches from one end of the dowel. Slide a casing over the dowel +and run the end of it up against this edge of the tape. If you look in the +open end of the casing, you will see a cavity exactly 1/4 of an inch deep. +Pack this cavity full of putty (not yet). + +Mix the putty with water in a small tuna can to the appproximate consistency +of stiff bread dough. You can pack each cavity by simply pressing a wad of +putty into the end of the casing with your finger and wiping the excess of with +your thumb. Try to avoid creating air pockets or bubbles. After your done +with this, SLOWLY remove the dowel depth gauge. Then let it sit to dry for +a day or lay them on a cookie cheet in the oven and heat them at 140-160 +degrees (F), depending on how many you made, for an hour to an hour and 30 min. +After the putty is hard and dry, drill a 7/64 inch diameter hole completely +through the center of each putty plug. If I were you, I would use a power +drill. But a hand drill is okay if you are careful and patient. + +Now I will show you how to make a jig to hold the casings upright so drilling +a hole in each putty plug won't be a tough job. Get a thick block of wood and +drill 3/8 inch diameter holes in it and stand the casings, putty ends UP, in +the holes in the block. Mount your 7/64 inch drill bit in your drill press, +and start drillin' a hole in each putty plug. Get each hole well entered, so +work CAREFULLY. + + +Loading the Propellant +---------------------- +The sugar rocket that you are making are core-burners. To make a core-burner, +simply pack the propellant down around a dowel or mandrel. When the mandrel +is removed, it leaves behind a hollow core. The mandrel I used was a short +length of 3/32 inch diameter piano wire (well you can use a finishing nail or +piano wire). The core has to be about 1-1/4 inch long. The core starts at the +inside edge of the nozzle plug and extends to the inside edge of the forward +bulkhead plug. The nozzle plug is 1/4 of an inch thick, so the mandrel should +be 1-1/2 inch long. To make a mandrel, use a small hammer to pound on a six +penny finishing nail into a block of wood. Then use a pair of wire cutters to +snip it off to a length of exactly 1-1/2 inches. If you are using piano wire +and not finishing nails then do this: + +Drill a 3/32 inch diameter hole in the block. Roughen up one end of the wire +with sandpaper or a file and glue the roughen end of the wire into the hole +in block with epoxy glue. When the glue is completely hard, grind the wire +to length with a grinding wheel. + + X = Quanity of +If you made X rockets, make X mandrels on ONE block of wood (or a few blocks +if you made about 100 rockets). To use this, set each rocket casing, drilled +end DOWN, over each mandrel (you're ready to load them). + + + +LOADING THE ROCKETS: + +Step One +-------- +To load the propellant, you must pack it down around the mandrel(s), so the +tamp that you use must have a hole drilled right in its center and deeper than +the length of the madrel wire inside the paper casing. Here is how to make the +tamp. Cut a 4 inch length of 1/4 inch hardwood dowel, sand the ends square, +stand it upright under the drill press, and drill a 1/8 inch diameter hole +right down the center of the dowel to a depth of 1-1/2 inches. You can also +use a brass or aluminum rod to make a nicer tamp instead of using the dowel. +But DO NOT USE STEEL! It is for your safety. + +Note: If you have access to a machine lathe, the job will be much easier... + +Step Two +-------- +Next, make a paper funnel and place it over the open rocket casing, and fill it +with about 1/8 teaspoon of sugar-based rocket propellant. Use a small stick or +wire and poke it down into casing. Remove the funnel and insert the tamp you +made (drilled end DOWN) into the end of the casing. Pack the propellant down +around the wire mandrel by striking the tamp with a small hammer. Repeat this +step (3) until the tamped powder reaches the top of the mandrel. Wad up some +tissue paper, or paper towel, and pound it in on top of the powder. This +plug keeps the epoxy glue used to plug the front of the rocket from running +down and sticking to the madrel. Once the tissue plug is in place, fill the +rest of the casing with epoxy glue. After it has hardened, twist and pull +each rocket casing off of the mandrel. + + +Priming and Firing +------------------ +Go to a gun shop and buy a can of FFFF Fine black powder. + +Priming the Rocket(s) +--------------------- +To prime or fuse one these rockets stand it on end, nozzle-UP, and use a small +paper trough to fill the entire core hole up to the top with the black powder +you bought. Now you must cap it. Put about a teaspoon of the powder into a +jar and add water a few drops at a time, stirring with a stick as you go, until +the mixture is about the consistency of toothpaste. Then you take a small dab +of this powder paste on the tip of your finger and smear it over the nozzle +hole of the rocket that you just fused (primed). Make sure that the hole is +completely covered. Now just set the rocket(s) aside to allow the paste (cap) +to dry for about 30 minutes or so. + +Firing the Rocket(s) +-------------------- +The easiest way to launch the rocket(s) is to glue it onto a guide stick. You +can use hibachi sticks or shish kabob skewers. You can use a drop of instant +cyanoacrylate model cement or just use white glue and masking tape to glue on +the sticks. To ignite the rocket(s), you can use an electric igniter or just +tape a filament of wire from a piece of coarse steel wool over the priming cap, +attach each end to an electrical lead or alligater clips. Attach leads to a +strong battery (6-9 volts or a car battery), and fire by closing a switch to +complete the circuit. The current will make the steel wool wire glow red hot, +causing it to burn and ignite the priming cap... + + +How 'bout an Option: + +A slow lift off: Prime or fuse with pyrodex or don't fill the core all the way +to the top with black powder. Put a little in.... + + +Have fun! This text file was written and typed by Cloaked Warrior... +August 4, 1986 2:25 (pacific)....Watch for 'Improving your Socket' +Coming soon to AE near you! + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/srocket2.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/srocket2.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4e85f900 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/srocket2.txt @@ -0,0 +1,128 @@ + + + ------------------- + -- -- + --Cloaked Warrior-- + -- -- + --P r e s e n t s-- + Improving your Rocket + -- -- + ----------------- + +Cloaked Warrior '86! + +This text file was written on an Apple ][e with 192K and in 80-col. August 8, +1986 9:00 PM (pacific). Be sure that you have read the file 'How to Make Sugar +Rockets' before reading this file. This file is actually Part II of that +File.... + +------------ +ENHANCEMENTS +------------ + +Time Delays & Special Effects +----------------------------- +In order to provide room for time delays (et cetera), you will need a longer +rocket casing. So go out to the store again and buy wider brown packaging tape +(3 in. instead of 2 in.). But the thing is that this type of tape is not sold +in most stores, so go look in a phone book for large paper suppliers that sell +packaging supplies. To make a rocket casing with a time delay, you just have +to follow the instructions in Part I (How to Make Sugar Rockets) except (there +are some changes): + +1> Use the 3 in. packaging tape to make a 3 in. casing. +2> When loading the propellant, instead of stopping at the top of the mandrel, + continue working, using the flat, undrilled end of the tamp, and pack an + extra 1/2 inch of propellant in on top of the mandrel. +3> You will need to form a tiny hole through the epoxy glue plug, to do this, + (after packing the propellant) stick a large sewing needle into the + propellant right at the edge of the rocket casing, you then press it into + the delay powder to a depth of 1/8 of an inch, now firmly pack in your wad + of tissue paper or paper towel and then pour in the front plug of epoxy. +4> After the glue dries and hardens, use a pair of small pliers to twist and + pull the needle out of the epoxy, leaving a tiny pin-hole through the plug. + +Now you're all ready to go... + + +Making a 'Pop' sound and smoke +------------------------------ +To make a 'pop' and some smoke at the end of the rocket's flight is easy. +All you have to do is fill up the pin hole with black powder or Pyrodex powder +and add another 1/19 of a gram (1/2 as much as you used to prime the rocket). +Press in a another wad of tissue paper (or towel) and pour another epoxy cap on +top of that. When the falme inside the rocket reaches the front of the time +delay powder, it will flash through the pin hole and ignite the powder. This +is how to make a fire cracker like 'pop' and a puff of smoke at the end of its +flight. Making the flames a certain color is also desirable. Well, it is very +simple. If you want a green flame when it is lauched, this is what you do: + +Go out and buy some Copper Sulfate (powder). Then you glue the powder on +to the rocket casing(s) at the ends all the way around. Use Elmer's glue to +do this. And that's it! When the rocket is ignited, it will be launched as +the Copper Sulfate burns (Elmer's glue melts), causing green flames. You may +use other chemicals to produce different colors. But be sure to use the slow +lift-off option that was explained in the Part I (so that you can observe it). + + +Making a Nose Cone for better Performance +----------------------------------------- +To make your rocket(s) fly better, you will need to make a nose cone. Make +something like a witch's hat out of paper and masking tape and glue it onto +the nose of each rocket. This should not require any assistance (I assume +that you must know how to make a nose cone. It shaped like a funnel.) + + +Using the Time Delay to Pop a Parachute +--------------------------------------- +To pop a parachute, fill the pin hole with black powder and add a very SMALL +amount of powder on top of this. Then cut a disk of stiff paper from a +3 x 5 inch file card about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, and using on end of +your powder tamp, press the paper disk into the nose of the rocket on top of +the loose powder (be sure that you have not made a nose cone and have glued +it onto the rocket). + + +Second Stage Rocket +------------------- +If you want to have your rocket ignite a second stage, then use a single edged +razor blade to cut the excess length of the cassing off right at front of the +front plug. Then fill the pin-hole with loose powder and cap the FRONT of the +rocket with the powder ppaste just as you did to the back end when priming it +for firing. Make sure the front of the rocket is marked, once te ends are +capped, you won't be able to tell which end is which. When igniting a second +stage, place the priming cap of the second stage engine in contact with the +front end cap or first stage motor. When the flame in the first stage motor +reaches the front of the time delay powder, it will ignite the cap at its +front, which in turn will light the priming cap of the second stage engine. + + +Making a Second Stage Stick Rocket +---------------------------------- +When you make a second stage stick rocket, you will need a longer stick to +balance the extra weight and you will have to connect the two stages so that +the second stage can slide easily away from the first after the first is spent. +Wrap a single layer of paper tape around the fron of the booster engine (first +stage motor), so that the tape is glued to the front of the booster but sticks +1/2 an inch out in from of the finished, capped engine. After the glue dries, +you can slide the tail of the second stage into this paper sleeve off the first +until the priming cap of the second stage mmotor touches the front cap of the +first. Glue or tape the longer guide stick to the second stage engine, leaving +the first stage engine and its paper sleeve free. (Note: This two stage stick +rocket is 2 rocket casings connected to a longer stick. This is an easier +explaination.) + + +Substitutions & Misc. +--------------------- +You can mix white baking flour with epoxy glue if you cannot get the water +putty. Instead of getting flowers of sulfur, you can get dusting sulfur at +a nursery or fertilizer supplier. Dusting sulfur will result in a better +rocket. Never put the 3 chemicals (sulfur, saltpetre, and sugar) in a blender, +if you do, you'll get a real big kick out of it... + +Well, good luck and look out for more files in the future... +Cloaked Warrior '86... + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/star.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/star.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..24504ceb --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/star.txt @@ -0,0 +1,565 @@ +This file was originally intended for teachers of chemistry as a short +introduction to pyrochemical demonstrations. However, the compositions and +the methods of preparation are indeed general, and the stars prepared here +can be used for most pyrotechnical applications, including starmines and +bombshells. +Enjoy. + + + + + +Pyrochemical reactions in chemical education - Part I: +Coloured smokes, coloured flames and sparklers +A. Introduction + +As an assistant leader of our chemistry club, I've often been asked to +perform some chemistry magic tricks before the audience. I know from +personal experience that probably the most interesting demonstrations +are those demonstrating the true magic of chemistry - that is, chemical +reactions. Those who have a fume cupboard (hood) for demonstration +purposes can broaden their spectrum of useful demonstrations by including +the most beautiful effects known to mankind to their demonstration sets - +namely, pyrochemical reactions. + +Many demonstration manuals (notably Shakhashiri's Chemical Demonstrations) +include several reasonably safe "flash'n'boom" demonstrations. However, +while these demonstrations are relatively easy to perform and do not +require any special equipment, they still fail quite often and unexpectedly. +This is often due to high sensitivity of the compositions, which prevents +the demonstrators from making accurate preparations. + +The thermite demonstration looks great, but it is usually performed in a very large scale. If you haven't tried it before, or if you change anything, try +it first (preferably outside) without any audience before performing it live. +Also, make sure it will go off when you want it. I suggest using a good fuse +and black powder instead of the methods presented in the manuals. Magnesium ribbon burns with a dazzling flame, but it is neither a fuse nor a match. + +The demonstrations presented here are based on tiny pellets of the +composition held together with a binder. They are also called stars. + +These are not as rapidly prepared as the usual demonstration compositions, +but contrary to these, the stars can be safely stored in metal cans. They +are at least as safe as matchheads. A 50-gram lot of stars is good for +tens of demonstrations. + +Binders are organic compounds designed to keep the star in one piece. They +may be ordinary resins or gums (like shellac), carbohydrates (dextrin), +plastics (polyvinyl chloride, Parlon rubber) or thermosetting resins +(polyurethane, epoxy resin). + +Chlorine donors are compounds designed to add chlorine or hydrochloric acid +to the flame. In coloured flames, they serve three main functions: + +1) They aid in evaporation of the emitters (colour-producing substances). + +2) Usually, the emitters are themselves chlorides (or diatomic species +containing chlorine) of the colour-giving elements. Metal chlorides cannot +be added directly, since they usually attract moisture. + +3) In magnesium-containing compositions, the chlorine donors reduce the +disturbing background radiation of magnesium oxide and makes the flame +transparent. The chlorine donors also cool the flame. + +The most common chlorine donors are polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and Parlon +rubber. The latter is richer in chlorine (ca 70%). They can both be used as +binders, too. Ammonium perchlorate is the only practicable oxidiser which +simultaneously acts as a chlorine donor. + +Preparation of dextrin: + +Spread some flour or potato starch on a plate and heat at 220 oC in an oven +for 15...30 minutes. Avoid overheating - when the product is brownish and +readily soluble in water, it's ready. Dextrin can be used either as a mere +fuel or also as a binder. Water is used as a solvent in this case. Sometimes +dextrin is mixed dry with the other ingredients and water is added +afterwards. However, see instructions below for a safer alternative. + +Shellac and red gum may also be mixed with the other ingredients (if they +are powdered) and ethanol used as a solvent. Red gum is also called accroides resin. Shellac and red gum are also good fuels. + +Parlon rubber is soluble in acetone. + +Notes on using PVC: +PVC is available in two forms, hard (unplasticised) PVC and plasticised, +flexible PVC. Unplasticised PVC is available from PVC manufacturers. +Plasticised PVC is the form used for practical purposes. It contains some +high-boiling organic liquids (plasticisers) to keep it flexible. +It is very useful in pyrotechnics, too. Plasticised PVC tubing or hose +can be cut into pieces and dissolved in tetrahydrofuran (THF). +This solution can be used as such. It can contain up to 18% of PVC (w/v), +but give a week or two for the PVC to dissolve. A solution of hard PVC is +rather messy to handle. It is advisable to add 2 parts of dibutyl phtalate, +dioctyl phtalate or tricresyl phosphate to the solution per 100 parts of PVC +as a plasticiser. Instead of cutting the wet star composition into pellets +with a knife (as described below), you can just let a PVC-bound mass alone +on a plate until it's dry, carefully remove it and cut it into stars with +a pair of scissors. Easy. But only with plasticised PVC. + +Unfortunately, THF is the only practically useful solvent for PVC. It is +really expensive, and if you want to reduce costs, use some other +binder and powdered PVC. + +Tetrahydrofuran, ethanol and acetone are all narcotic if inhaled. Work in +a fume cupboard (hood). Stains of the binders are sometimes hard to +remove. Plasticised PVC is the easiest, but shellac requires hot ethanol +and probably some detergent for successful removal. + +The stars are normally prepared as follows (this is probably the safest + +method): + +1. Dissolve the binder in the solvent used (usually water or ethanol). Pour +the solution into a flat plastic bowl and mix in the other ingredients. +Make sure all the ingredients are thoroughly moistened before adding the +next one. This will almost entirely exclude any accidental friction between +the fuels and the oxidisers. You can use glass or stainless steel tools for +mixing. Grind all the ingredients _separately_ in a mortar before weighing +and mixing them. + +2. After you've arrived in a more or less homogenous mix, allow the excess of the solvent to evaporate (care! do not allow the mix to become too dry, since you'll have to moisten it again!) and press the mass into a flat cake, about 8 mm thick. With a pizza cutter, cut the cake into cubes 8 mm each side. A knife or a ruler may also be used. Best results are achieved by keeping the cutter clean. Allow the mass to dry (in a safe place; you may use a fridge fan to aid in drying) and remove the stars by bending and twisting the bowl. This is why we used plastic. However, see note on using PVC above. + +3. Sometimes it is necessary to coat the stars with an igniting composition. +This can be done by moistening the stars with a suitable solvent in a bowl +and sprinkling the igniting composition on the stars. Give the stars a good +shake before adding more solvent or powder. It is advisable to mix +a little binder into the igniting composition before using it for coating. +For example, if you're going to coat the stars with black powder, you should +add some (say, 5%) dextrin to the black powder and moisten the stars with +water. Do not use _too much_ solvent - the stars will stick into each other, +and you'll get only large lumps! Use a dropper for adding the solvent. + +You can mix your own powder for coating. It isn't actually true black powder, +not even "meal powder" (mixed and ball-milled powder), but it serves this +purpose well. + +75 parts of fine, sieved potassium nitrate +10 parts of fine sulfur (preferably flour) +15 parts of fine, sieved charcoal + +This mix can be stored in small plastic containers. +Specific procedures are described below if they are needed. The above +procedure is usually appropriate. + +B. Coloured smokes +These formulas contain volatile organic pigments, which will partially +evaporate (sublime) from the heat of the main composition (lactose/potassium chlorate). Dextrin is used as a binder. The stars are usually coated with black powder to ensure ignition. It is advisable to use these stars in a cardboard tube to prevent the smoke from catching fire, which will destroy the effect. The easier alternative is to use a wire gauze (as usual) and to blow the flame out. + +Note that the low flame temperatures of these stars aid in formation of +possibly toxic by-products (comparable to campfire smoke). The dyes +themselves are quite safe, although Rhodamine B should be handled with care +- it stains everything and contact should be avoided. + +1. Blue smoke + +40 parts of copper phtalocyanine (Phtalo Blue) +25 parts of lactose (milk sugar) +33 parts of potassium chlorate +2 parts of dextrin (a water-soluble binder) + +Add water and proceed as above. Coat the stars with black powder/dextrin +or a simple ignition composition consisting of + +4 parts of potassium chlorate +1 part of sucrose (cane sugar) +1 part of dextrin + +This time you'll have to mix the chemicals in a dry state, ie, as plain +powders. Use a small plastic bowl and a glass rod for mixing. Do not grind. +Do not store the composition. Sprinkle it on the moistened stars. Use at +least 20% of the weight of the stars. + +2. Yellow smoke + +43 parts of quinoline yellow (quinophtalone yellow, Chinolingelb) +24 parts of potassium chlorate +16 parts of lactose +6 parts of sodium hydrogen carbonate (sodium bicarbonate) +2 parts of dextrin (as a binder) + +Add water, proceed as above. Like the blue smoke stars, these stars should +be coated either with black powder or the igniting composition described +above. + +3. Red smoke + +40 parts of Rhodamine B (C.I. Basic Violet 10, C.I. 45170) +24 parts of potassium chlorate +16 parts of lactose +4 parts of sodium hydrogen carbonate +2 parts of dextrin + +Add water and proceed as usual. Coat the stars as above. + +Many other organic pigments and dyes can be used in coloured smokes. +The dyes should volatilise (sublime) readily between about 300...450 +degrees oC, which excludes almost all dyes containing -NO2 (nitro) or -SO3H +(sulfonic acid) groups. Unfortunately, the leftovers are usually the +malicious azo or anthraquinone dyes, with known toxic properties. The dyes +suggested here are all safer than them. + +If you wish to develop your own formula for a dye you think should work, +just substitute the dye with Rhodamine B in the previous formula. Every +dye would require a formula of its own, but the third formula is a good +starting point. If the dye you're using is evaporates near or slightly +above 300 oC, use a) 45 parts of the dye instead of 40 parts and b) 8 +parts of sodium hydrogen carbonate instead of 4 parts. + +C. Coloured flames + +These are both easier to prepare and use than the coloured smokes. The +colours result mainly from atomic and molecular emissions in the flame. +For the yellow colour, the emitter is atomic Na (two lines near 589 nm). +For the red, both SrO and SrCl (radical) act as emitters, the former +giving a series of bands around 610 nm, and the latter emitting near 660 +nm. Green comes from the molecular emission of BaCl radical (a number of +bands in the 510...535 nm range), but the colour is often disturbed by +BaO, which emits a series of bands mainly in the 530...600 nm range +(yellow). Moreover, BaCl is unstable at above 2000 oC. Finally, blue can +be obtained from the emission of CuCl below 1200 oC. The temperature of +a typical Bunsen flame is about 1800 oC, and the primary emitter at that +temperature is CuOH, which gives a green flame. The secret of a vivid blue +is a cool flame. + +If you use the stars for demonstration purposes, it is not necessary to coat +the stars, since they will readily take fire anyway. The chlorate +compositions are generally more sensitive than the perchlorate compositions.Avoid sparks and static electricity. Do not grind! + +1. Red stars + +20 parts of potassium chlorate +60 parts of strontium nitrate +20 parts of shellac (binder) + +Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol. Add the other ingredients and proceed +as described in the introduction. The stars take unexpectedly long to dry. +They can be dried in the sun or in a vacuum, but do not try any heating! The +smaller the stars are, the faster they'll dry. + +65 parts of potassium chlorate +15 parts of strontium carbonate +20 parts of shellac + +Proceed as above. + +44 parts of potassium perchlorate +31 parts of strontium nitrate +8 parts of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) _or_ 7 parts of saran (PVDC) +15 parts of red gum (accroides resin) +5 parts of shellac (binder) + +Proceed as above. + +30 parts of ammonium perchlorate +35 parts of potassium perchlorate +18 parts of strontium carbonate +2 parts of hexamine +2 parts of fine charcoal +16 parts of red gum (accroides resin) +4 parts of dextrin + +Add water, proceed as above; _but_ do not coat these stars with black powder! Ammonium perchlorate and potassium nitrate (from black powder) react to produce ammonium nitrate and potassium perchlorate. Ammonium nitrate is hygroscopic; the stars will never be dry in ambient humidity. + +The following coating composition can be used: + +80 parts of potassium perchlorate +15 parts of fine charcoal +4 parts of red gum (accroides resin) +9 parts of manganese dioxide (optional!) +4 parts of fine aluminium (preferably fine flake or pyro grade; optional!) +2 parts of dextrin + +Aluminium and manganese dioxide aid in ignition, but are not necessary. + +2. Green stars +A simple but nice (somewhat yellowish) green can be made from + +7 parts of barium nitrate +7 parts of potassium chlorate +2 parts of shellac + +Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol and proceed as described above for red +stars. + +Dazzling green: + +50 parts of barium nitrate +32 parts of lab grade magnesium powder +18 parts of Parlon (chlorinated isoprene rubber) +or 18 parts of PVC (corresponding amount of the solution in tetrahydrofuran) + +Mix Parlon with magnesium. Add 50 volume parts of acetone, mix well and +mix in the other ingredients. + +If PVC is used, add the correct amount of the solution in THF to the other ingredients and proceed as described above for PVC. + +The composition leaves lots of ash. Ammonium perchlorate improves it: + +56 parts of barium nitrate +32 parts of lab grade magnesium powder +17 parts of Parlon rubber (or PVC, solvent: THF) +25 parts of ammonium perchlorate + +Proceed as described for the previous composition. Use 60 volume parts of +acetone for Parlon. If you use PVC, use the procedure above for using it. + +Greens can also be based on aluminium: + +65 parts of barium nitrate +10 parts of very fine aluminium (preferably dark pyro grade (sic!)) +20 parts of Parlon rubber +4 parts of sulfur +2 parts of boric acid + +Add acetone and proceed as usual. Coat with black powder. +An improved, fierce-burning formula with ammonium perchlorate: + +65 parts of barium nitrate +20 parts of saran (or parlon, but saran is better in this case) +3 parts of red gum (accroides resin) +7 parts of sulfur +10 parts of very fine aluminium, preferably dark pyro +15 parts of ammonium perchlorate +2 parts of boric acid +2 parts of dextrin + +Beautiful green, without magnesium: + +50 parts of ammonium perchlorate +35 parts of barium nitrate +15 parts of shellac + +Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol and proceed as usual. + +Twinkling green (wow!) + +23 parts of magnesium powder (use any lab grade powder) +60 parts of ammonium perchlorate +17 parts of barium sulfate + +Binder solution: Dissolve 3 parts of nitrocellulose (smokeless powder or +celluloid film) into 30 parts (w/v) of boiling acetone. If you're going to +prepare these stars more than once, prepare more of the solution, +since nitrocellulose dissolves slowly even in refluxing acetone. Approx. +30 parts of the solution (v/w) is used each time. + +Mix the ingredients into the binder solution in the order they appear above. +Proceed as usual. Note that acetone evaporates very rapidly and the stars +usually dry within a few hours. + +Magnesium reacts slowly with ammonium perchlorate producing ammonia and magnesium perchlorate, especially in the presence of moisture. Thus, the +twinklers cannot be stored for more than 6 months, and they must be kept +in a closed bag. + +During the smoulder phase, magnesium reacts with ammonium perchlorate +in the dark. In the flash phase, magnesium reacts with barium sulfate, +producing hot MgO and creating a green flame. The flash is followed by +another cycle, since the flash rapidly consumes the reactants in the flash +zone. + +Nitrocellulose is used as a binder, since other binders tend to interfere +with the twinkling. + +3. Blue stars + +60 parts of ammonium perchlorate +17 parts of sulfur +20 parts of copper(II) oxide CuO +6 parts of red gum (accroides resin) _or_ shellac (powdered) +3 parts of dextrin (binder) + +Add 25 volume parts of water to dextrin and mix in the other ingredients. +Use more water if necessary. Proceed as described above for stars in +general. + +63 parts of potassium perchlorate +13 parts of copper oxide +14 parts of Parlon rubber (binder) or PVC (solution in THF) +10 parts of red gum or shellac (powdered) + +Mix red gum or shellac powder with Parlon. Add 50 volume parts of acetone, +mix well and mix in the other ingredients. Proceed as usual. + +65 parts of potassium perchlorate +16 parts of cuprous chloride (CuCl) +10 parts of sulfur +11 parts of Parlon rubber (or 12 parts of PVC) +7 parts of red gum (accroides resin) + +Use either Parlon or PVC as a binder. + +60 parts of ammonium perchlorate +20 parts of copper(II) oxide CuO +10 parts of sulfur +10 parts of dextrin +12 parts of polyvinyl chloride PVC (use a solution in THF) + +Add the PVC solution to the other ingredients. Allow some THF to evaporate, +form a cake 1 cm thick and allow it to dry on a plastic plate (check that it +doesn't dissolve in THF!). Remove the dry cake and cut it into stars with a +pair of scissors. + +4. Yellow stars + +6 parts of potassium chlorate +2 parts of sodium hydrogen carbonate +2 parts of dextrin + +Mix dextrin with 4 volume parts of water and mix in the other ingredients. +Proceed as described above for stars in general. + +D. Sparklers, silver rains + +Sparks are produced whenever hot liquid or solid particles are expelled +from the flame. In pyrotechnics, charcoal and aluminium are the most +common sources of sparks. Magnesium does not produce good sparks, +since it evaporates at 1100 oC and usually burns completely in the flame. +Charcoal and iron sparks are often orange or golden yellow, whereas Al +sparks are whiter. The colour of a glowing solid or liquid particle is almost +completely determined by its surface temperature. The intensity distribution often obeys the Planck's black-body radiation curve, although the actual intensities are usually lower than the theory predicts. This has sometimes been called grey-body radiation. The intensity maximum shifts towards shorter wavelengths (blue endof the visible spectrum) as the temperature increases. At the same time, the overall intensity is markedly increased. + +The sparkler composition must generate enough gases in order to expel +the hot particles. Moreover, if the burning proceeds mainly through liquid +phases, it reduces the amount of sparks remarkably. Thus, ammonium +perchlorate is ideal for sparklers and silver rains. Potassium perchlorate +and potassium chlorate are generally not used, except with potassium +nitrate. The particle size of the materials may also have a profound effect +on the quality and quantity of sparks, especially with aluminium. Fine +flakes are best. + +Dextrin and shellac are usually used as binders. Epoxy resin and polyurethane +can also be used. + +The spark compositions are safer to prepare than coloured stars, since they +don't usually contain chlorates. Still, we are using fine metal powders here, +and the unpelletised compositions may be powerful explosives, though not +especially sensitive. Powdered aluminium is most sensitive to static +electricity. When in doubt, use metal cups and wear cotton clothing. Or, +even better, add all the ingredients to a solution of a binder one at a time. +This will exclude any danger in the preparation. The dried stars are not +as dangerous as the plain powders. + +Furthermore, the stars may be hazardous to use, due to their very nature. +Have a fire extinguisher handy and wear cotton clothing. I also advise you +to protect your face and eyes. As always, remember not to test the stars +the first time before the audience. The shelf life of the stars is quite +long. + +The stars are prepared as usual. Since fine powders are used, the stars are +easy to cut. + +1. Gold flitter + +16 parts of fine potassium nitrate +3 parts of sulfur +2 parts of powdered charcoal +4 parts of sodium oxalate (or 2 parts of ultramarine) +11 parts of fine, grey aluminium powder (preferably pyro aluminium) +5 parts of flake aluminium or medium aluminium powder (Al bronze works well) +4 parts of dextrin (binder) + +Add water and proceed as usual. The particle sizes of aluminium powders +will markedly affect the result. If Al bronze is available, you can use all +16 parts of it instead of the two different Al powders. + +2. Silver shower I + +35 parts of potassium nitrate +8 parts of fine charcoal +2 parts of boric acid +7 parts of sulfur (flowers of sulfur) +60 parts of potassium perchlorate +20 parts of fine pyro aluminium (atomised aluminium, 0.1 um) +25 parts of fine flake aluminium (Al bronze) +15 parts of coarse flake aluminium +10 parts of dextrin + +Add water and proceed as above. As before, the particle size and surface +area of the reactants has a profound effect on the results. + +3. Silver shower II + +65 parts of ammonium perchlorate +22 parts of fine aluminium powder or flake aluminium (not too coarse) +18 parts of shellac + +Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, mix in the other ingredients and +proceed as usual. Shellac stars take a long time to dry; try drying in the +sun. The particle size of aluminium is not as critical as in the above +formulas. + +4. Simple silver shower + +15 parts of flitter (or any grade except the finest pyro grades) aluminium +55 parts of potassium nitrate +2 parts of boric acid +10 parts of fine charcoal +5 parts of dextrin (binder) + +Add water and proceed as usual. + +If you don't want to obtain N+1 grades of unspecified Al powders, feel free +to experiment with the grades you have. Both stabilised and unstabilised +Al powders will work. Just substitute the powder you have with the Al +powder suggested in the formula. (Use small batches.) If the composition +burns too fast and emits only a few sparks, you have to add coarser +grades. If you have enormous difficulties with ignition as well as a poor +result with regard to sparks, your Al is too coarse. + +E. Uses +The stars should be used in a fume cupboard (hood), since they emit large +quantities of irritating smoke. There are several alternatives for ignition. +My own method is to place the stars on a wire gauze and ignite them with +a Bunsen burner. Use only a few stars at a time. The twinkling green stars +should be used one at a time for the best effect. + +The stars will burn for a few seconds. They usually leave very little +residue. Clean up with a wet cloth and wash the gauze with water. +The effects can be used for demonstrating a variety of principles: +thermochemistry (the heats of reactions), kinetics and activation energies +(why don't the stars go off at once?), electronic spectroscopy (atomic +and molecular emissions), the chemistry of chlorine compounds (chlorates +vs. perchlorates), phase changes (evaporation of dyes) and even complex +kinetics (oscillations), if you can use the magnificent twinkling stars. + +F. Hazards +The preparation and use of pyrotechnic compositions is not free from danger. +The smoke compositions are relatively safe, since they contain many inert +materials. Coloured flames, on the other hand, are more hazardous to +prepare. Follow the instructions carefully and avoid all grinding or static +electricity. Do not prepare too large batches (20...50 grams is ideal for +a beginner). Dry and store the stars in a safe place and label them. Do not +store any powdered compositions. + +The stars won't explode, but the loose powders may have a good chance of +doing that, especially when confined. The stars merely burn (and are a fire +hazard if they are accidentally ignited) and generate noxious smoke. + +By following the instructions, the preparation and use of ready-made stars +is at least as safe as the pyrotechnic demonstrations described in +Shakhashiri's great demonstration manual (Chemical Demonstrations: A hand-book for Teachers of Chemistry, part 1.) + +Disposal: The best way of disposing old stars is to burn them. They can be +safely burned in small batches (no more than 50 grams at a time) if you use +a safety fuse and some igniting composition. Do this _outside_. If this is +not possible, do it in smaller batches in a fume cupboard. It is advisable +to have a fire extinguisher handy, as always. + +G. Pyrotechnic literature +John A. Conkling: Chemistry of Pyrotechnics (Marcel Dekker, New York, NY +1986) + +A great textbook for anyone, especially for those who are interested in the +chemistry beyond the fireworks. + +See also Conkling's great articles in Scientific American (July 1990, pp +96-102) and Chemical & Engineering News (June 29, 1981, pp 24-32). + +T.Shimizu: Fireworks - The Art, Science and Technique, 2nd ed. (Pyrotechnica +Publications, 1988) + +This book is a must for any professional, either for a pyrotechnist or a +teacher. A comprehensive treatise of commercial fireworks and the underlying science. + +More references can be found in Books in Print (in most libraries). + +--> End 'o File diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stench.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stench.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..47de0de9 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stench.txt @@ -0,0 +1,122 @@ + + Stenches For All + + by Kurt Saxon + +Typed by Mach Three from The Weaponeer +The Sound Barrier 916-758-9540, 9600 Baud + +=========================================================================== + + In these days of fear of offending, people have gotten used to nothing +but good smells. So when a stench that can move mountains assails the +pampered nostril, the poor baby just can't deal with it. He she, or it must +go home, or if already at home, move. A good job done on the family or +company car gets the vehicle junked. + I once had an experience with Mercaptan, an oil distillate, when a +friend threw some into the car of a woman I was staying with (She had +had his child aborted and he had wanted badly to be a daddy). + I was awakened by the most horrible odor of garlic and skunks. It +was hard to trace to its source ad it seemed to be all over the house. I +finally traced it to her car parked outside in the open air. He'd opened +the car door, poured about an ounce in the back and closed the door. + Since it was that strong in the house and outside, from a closed +car, I wondered if the neighbors would notice. I looked and saw a +sheriff's car parked at the curb a full block away. I walked down there and +sure enough, the woman had called the law. Naturally, I didn't know a +thing, but can you imagine, a full block away? + As soon as I could I got a pint of it and I don't know of a +present source but maybe Aardvark has access to it. + The stuff is so volatile that the bottle I have is dipped in wax +and stored in a paint can stuffed with paper and the lid banged on tight. +Even so, a sniff at the can's edge tells me it's still in there. + I meant to foul a printing corporation in Dallas and hoped to carry +it in a wax-dipped hypo. The stench came through the plastic and the wax +something fierce so I couldn't carry it that way. Then I put it in a 4 cc +vaccine bottle with a rubber cap, the kind hypos are filled from. Not good +enough. I finally put the vaccine bottle in a 4 oz. glass vitamin bottle filled +with rubbing alcohol with a tightly screwed on plastic cap. That's what it +took to block the smell. + I mean to tell how to make it at home, and should be in the next +volume. + The first stench that is easy to make is the smell of rotten eggs. The +best way to get the smell of rotten eggs is to rot eggs. Break two eggs in a +jar and add an equal volume of urine. The uric acid gives it that special +something. + Stir well and leave the jar uncapped for about 24 hours. Then cap and +set it in a warm, dark place for a couple weeks. Actually it takes a long time +for eggs to rot and if the proper bacteria isnt there to settle in it the +result could be disappointing. + I had a batch going for a month before it really turned. But when it +did it was a horrific wonder. Just a sniff made me gag and that room stank +until the next day, even though I'd only had the jar open for a few +seconds. + When the stench is at its height, the next step is to remove the +solids. Cut a piece of cotton cloth 12 by 16 inches. Take everything outside +put the cloth across a plate and pour the mess in its middle. Quickly (it'll +smell worse than any shit you've ever smelled in your life) roll the cloth +into a loose tube and holding both ends, twist it until all the fluid has +run into a jar. Any fluid on the plate can also be poured in. Dispose of +the cloth. + + Rotten meat is another really disgusting smell. Put a quarter pound +of hamburger in a jar and let it set for 24 hours uncovered. Then break +it up and cover it with its own volume of water and let it set for a couple +of weeks with the lid on tight. Refine the finished product the same way as +with the rotten eggs. + + The same process goes for fish. Rotting fish will drive anyone up +the wall or out into the street. + The fact that these stenches can take several weeks to generate +shouldn't bother you. Actual working time is only a few minutes, and, +considering the small cost and the effect it has, makes it the cheapest +way to emotionally devastate an opponent. + + If you mean to dispense the stench with a hypodermic you'll want +it to be clear of foreign matter so it doesnt clog the needle. For this +you'll need a coffee filter and holder. Put the filter in the holder over +a small jar which will accommodate its opening. Help the filter along by +giving its surface as much room as possible between it and the holder. +To do this, put toothpicks of straws around the inside of the holder. + Do all this outside and dont let it set there after its filtered. +You dont want the smell to be wasted in the open air. + + Aside from just slopping the stench at the target, its best to use a hyp +o. This will enable you to squirt it, covering a wider area and with less +chance of being noticed. Also, with the inch long needle, you can squirt it +into locked buildings through double doors or under the door, into locks, in +cracks of walls, and all sorts of otherwise inaccessable places. Another way +is to stick it through backrests of couches, car seats, etc. They have to be +burned as there is no way to remove the stench. + If you're going to a bar or theater and anticipate some loud-mouth +slob, casually walk behind him and squirt some stench on his back. He'll be +forced to leave. + Although hypos are the easiest and least noticeable way of delivering +stenches, if your stench is worth using, the hypo won't block the odor for +more than a few minutes. You'll need a vaccine bottle to carry it around in. +These block all but the most volatile stenches, such as Mercaptan. In this +way, you can carry stenches or poisons around safely and draw them out with +the hypo just before use. + + + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + + Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 + Rat Head Ratsnatcher 510-524-3649 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 + + Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, + arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality, + insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. + + Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, + where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stink.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stink.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..112c2431 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stink.ana @@ -0,0 +1,74 @@ +13 ? + + THE GOODIES + ----------- + +I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING +THAT IS DONE WITH THESE FILES. + + 1] LETTER BOMBS + 2] FLAMETHROWER + 3] CHEMICAL IGNITERS + 4] STINKUMS + 5] TNT + 6] PIPE BOMBS + 7] TEAR GAS + 8] CAN BOMB + 9] FLASHLIGHT BOMBS + 10] PLASTICS EXPLOSIVES I + 11] PLASTICS EXPLOSIVES II + 12] KITCHEN EXPLOSIVES I + 13] KITCHEN EXPLOSIVES II + 14] THERMITE + 15] SPY TEST + 16] TRAILING PEOPLE + 17] TV SURVEILLENCE + 18] CONTACTING THE SERVICE + 19] BASIC FIREWORKS + 20] NASTIES + +MORE COMING + +(?=MENU,1-20) ->: 4 4 + +======================================= + +-PRESS SPACEBAR TO QUIT- + + +STINKUM FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND + BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN + +IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY +1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND +JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 +A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS +TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO +ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT +HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPOR- +IZED BY AN EXPLOSION. + +TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFE +R WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME +IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS +ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND +STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFER HAS COMPLETE- +LY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK +TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW +LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A BUCKET + +TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE +ANY SENSE, + +(?=MENU,1-20) ->: 2 + +======================================= + +-PRESS SPACEBAR TO QUIT- + + +ONLY TWO FILES PER CALL. +======================================= + + JEDISAYS-=+>K + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stink.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stink.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..c9dcfd3b --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stink.txt @@ -0,0 +1,32 @@ + + + ------------->Stink Bombs<-------------- + + I'm not quite sure of the proportions, but a very effective stink bomb +can be made from Ammonia and Sulfer, making Ammonium Sulfide. If somebody +can figure out the proportions, post a response. Until then, just try mixing +the two together liberally, and in a very wide open space. When you have +the yellowish fluid this produces, fill an eye dropper's worth into a small +glass container with a lid. You may use more than an eye dropper, but that +amount was all it took to completely evacuate the boy's locker room at my +school and get me suspended for 3 days (plus 2 Sat. Campus Corps, but that +was fun, because I got to raid lockers all day long!). A Coke bottle full +of it would be more than enough to completely evacuate a large building. +Note that even though there is no fire involved, most cities still consider +it fire-works, so if you take it to a public place (school, the subway, +etc.), don't let anyone know about it. I did, and they narked. The store I +got them from got busted too. Oh well, have phun and be careful! + + RESULTS OF A STINK BOMB + ----------------------- + + A while back, I posted a formula for a righteous stink bomb, but I +wasn't sure if it worked. Well, I have news. It does, and how!!! A friend +of mine took a Coke bottle, filled it 3/4 full of ammonia, and added some +sulfur powder and corked it. Next, he shook it up, and I think some gas +might have escaped, but anyway the fluid separates into two layers: a yellow +layer and a clear layer. Pour off the clear layer. He then crept up to a +neighbor's house who had his windows open since it was such a nice day, and +he poured the entire bottle in the kitchen window. About 5 min. later, the +entire family including the dog was out in the backyard! + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkbmb.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkbmb.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3bba9f91 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkbmb.txt @@ -0,0 +1,33 @@ + + ------------->Stink Bombs<-------------- + + I'm not quite sure of the proportions, but a very effective stink bomb +can be made from Ammonia and Sulfer, making Ammonium Sulfide. If somebody +can figure out the proportions, post a response. Until then, just try mixing +the two together liberally, and in a very wide open space. When you have +the yellowish fluid this produces, fill an eye dropper's worth into a small +glass container with a lid. You may use more than an eye dropper, but that +amount was all it took to completely evacuate the boy's locker room at my +school and get me suspended for 3 days (plus 2 Sat.Campus Corps, but that +was fun, because I got to raid lockers all day long!). A Coke bottle full +of it would be more than enough to completely evacuate a large building. +Note that even though there is no fire involved, most cities still consider +it fire-works, so if you take it to a public place (school, the subway, +etc.), don't let anyone know about it. I did, and they narked. The store I +got them from got busted too. Oh well, have phun and be careful! + + RESULTS OF A STINK BOMB + ----------------------- + + A while back, I posted a formula for a righteous stink bomb, but I +wasn't sure if it worked. Well, I have news. It does, and how!!! A friend +of mine took a Coke bottle, filled it 3/4 full of ammonia, and added some +sulfur powder and corked it. Next, he shook it up, and I think some gas +might have escaped, but anyway the fluid separates into two layers: a yellow +layer and a clear layer. Pour off the clear layer. He then crept up to a +neighbor's house who had his windows open since it was such a nice day, and +he poured the entire bottle in the kitchen window. About 5 min. later, the +entire family including the dog was out in the backyard! + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkbom.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkbom.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d14cd00d --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkbom.txt @@ -0,0 +1,71 @@ + *********************************** + * How to make a REALY smelly * + * Stink Bombs * + * By: * + * aPOCOLyPSE * + * From: * + * A.W.O.L. INC * + * * + *********************************** + + + Materials +******************** +*Sulfer * +*Hydrated Lime * +*Sulfate of ammonia* +*Chili Powder * +*Water * +*2 large stew pots * +*1 Water gun * +*1 large bucket * +******************** + + Procedure + *********** + +1) In the first pan mix 4 ounces of sulfer with 8 ounces of hydrated +lime. + +2) Add a quart of water to the first bucket. + +3) Heat and stir the liquid until the sulfer has completely blended.(The +hydrated lime will sink to the bottom of the pan and a yellow liquid is +poured off the into the bucket.) + +4) TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE and add 1 pound of sulfate of ammonia. + +5) Stir it for a minute or until it begins to smell. + +6) Cover the bucket with some plastic wrap and let it sit for about a +half an hour. + +7) Pour out the liquid into a bottle so the bottle is half full. + +8) Fill the second pan three quarters of the way up with water. + +9) Add 1/2 a pound of chili powder to the water and mix until all of the +powder has disolved. + +10) Fill the rest of the bottle with the mixture in the second pan. + +Note: +Sulfer can be obtained in a chemistry set. Sulfate of ammonia +(a fertilizer) can be purchased at the garden section of a home +improvement/hardware store. Hydrated lime can be obtained in the +building supply department where cement is sold. And chili powder can be +bought at any grocery store. + + To Use + ******** + +Pour your fart formula in to your squirt gun. Be careful because if you +get on your hand you will smell for a long time! Now pretend you are the +terminater on blow everthing away! +Or you could leave it in the bottle and put it some where (ie. Your +neighbors back yard) and put a salute in it and run! + + +ASTA LA VISTA BABIE! + +03/27/93 diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkum.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkum.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ad917a18 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkum.txt @@ -0,0 +1,68 @@ +STINKUM: FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN + +IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND +JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS +TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT +HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION. + +TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFE R WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME +IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND +STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFER HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK +TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A +BUCKET + +TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF SULFATE +OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER THE BUCKET WITH +PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID +SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE +YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE +LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON. + +A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFATE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GARDEN +STORE +AND GARDEN SULFER IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT GUN POWDER. IT HAS +10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED TO ANY FORMULA REQUIR- +ING SULFER. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10 +A POUND. + +STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL, THROWN IN A +BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE SAME GOES FOR THE +FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS +USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE +CAN +BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS BOUGHT +AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION. TO +KEEP +THE FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO MELTED +WAX. ENOUGH GOODY IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT FULL WHEN THE +FIRECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS FILLED AS SOON AS +POSSIBLE BEFORE USING. + +IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A MATCH OR +CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT THAT MIGHT INJURE +SOMEONE. + + ! <- FUSE + --- + ! ! <- BRASS TUBE + ! ! + ! ! + (^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE + ------- + ! !1! ! + ! / ! + ! / ! + !-----! <- WAX + ! 1 ! + ! 1 ! + ! === ! + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! ! + ! === ! + !-----! + + Edited by : Quasimoto + +--------------------------------------- diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkums.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkums.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..68d093e2 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkums.txt @@ -0,0 +1,98 @@ +**************************************************************************** +* STINKUMS * +**************************************************************************** + +IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 188TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND +JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS +TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT +HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION. + +TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFER WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME +IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND +STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFER HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK +TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A BUCKET + +TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF SULFATE +OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER THE BUCKET WITH +PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID +SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE +YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE +LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON. + +A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFATE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GARDEN STORE +AND GARDEN SULFER IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT GUN POWDER. IT HAS +10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED TO ANY FORMULA REQUIR- +ING SULFER. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10 +A POUND. + +STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL, THROWN IN A +BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE SAME GOES FOR THE +FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS +USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE CAN +BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS BOUGHT +AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION. TO KEEP +THE FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO MELTED +WAX. ENOUGH CHEMICAL IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT FULL WHEN THE FI +RECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS FILLED AS SOON AS +POSSIBLE BEFORE USING. + +IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A MATCH OR +CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT THAT MIGHT INJURE +SOMEONE. + + ! <- FUSE + --- + ! ! <- BRASS TUBE + ! ! + ! ! + (^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE + ------- + ! !1! ! + ! ! + ! ! +-- more -- !-----! <- WAX + ! 1 ! + ! 1 ! + ! === ! + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! ! + ! === ! + !-----! + + ALSO, AN EASY WAY IS TO SIMPLY GET BUTERIC ACID FROM ANY CHEMICAL SUPPLY +STORE. LEAVE A SMALL UNCAPPED BOTTLE BEHIND A DOOR, WHEN A PERSON ENTERS +THE DOOR WILL PUSH OVER THE BOTTLE AND SPILL THE ACID...DO NOT GET ON +YOUR CLOTHING AS IT IS HARD TO UN-STINK...A COUPLE OUNCES CAN GO A +LONG WAY... + A HOMEMADE STINK BOMB CAN BE MADE BY MIXING A BATCH OF EGG WHITES, DRANO +(SODIUM HYDROXIDE) AND WATER. LET THE MIXTURE SIT FOR A FEW DAYS BEFORE +USING. + + + + + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + + Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 + Salted Slug Systems Strange 408-454-9368 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 + Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 408-961-9315 + My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078 + + Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, + arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality, + insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. + + Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, + where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tactics.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tactics.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..bbf506cf --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tactics.ana @@ -0,0 +1,64 @@ + --------------------------------------- + >> War Tactics << + --------------------------------------- + I don't know if these will be of any use to you, being the civilized, cult- +ured human beings we are, but I've been known to use them. + + + ***How to kill using bamboo rods*** + + Well take a bamboo stick or better yet a knife and put any type of animal +excrements (shit) on the knife or the sharpened bamboo rod... Plant the knife +or rod in the ground firmly... When someone steps on it they most likely will +die of blood loss or the foriegn elements(shit) which been put in they're blood +stream will definetly kill him. + + ---> hand to hand combat <--- + + Get an 2 ace bandages and 2 knifes with blades on both sides... wrap the +knife to the top of you hand using the ace bandage, be sure to be able to +clench your fist so you can climb & punch. This is sick to do... So I +wouldn't suggest doing it unless we are under a russian attack. + + ===> The bog trap <=== + + When in a bog... You can remove the stumps in the bog and be left with a +large hole... Now throw the stump away and cover the pit with the dry grass +which be found anywhere in the bog most likely... You can even put this grass +on top of a still pond as long as it is still! If it moves forget it! + + And lastly remember that when either having a pretend war or a gang war use +the bogs to your best advantage... They are usually warm water and hide you +quickly and easily... Trees are never to be used! They can be fatal to the +climber... think of how you can be surrounded in seconds and not be able to +get back down... + + Here are the plans to make a nice bomb that is sure to impress your friends. +It's relatively safe too! This is an original creation, developed and tested +exclusively by Cesspool Computing. This beauty is known as... + + "The Johnny (Fatman) Campo Bomb" + -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- + +Ingredients: + * A large explosive such as an M-80 or H-100. + * A large cylindrical cardboard container, such as the kind Planters + Cheese Balls or Kool-Aid drink mix, comes in. + * Several cans of Comet Cleanser. Don't use Ajax, it's not as good. + * Roll of electrical tape. + +Plans: + Fill the container half full of the Comet cleanser. Poke a one eigth inch +hole in the side of the container at the halfway point. Insert the explosive +charge in the center of the container and run the fuse through the hole. (You +may have to lenghten to fuse.) Pour more Comet over the explosive charge to the +top of the container. Pack down well. Put lid back on container. Reinforce +the lid and base with the tape. Add the "Johnny (Fatman) Campo Bomb" name to +the device and your done. + + When you light this, run like mad (unless you love to inhale Comet), because +when it goes off it produces a huge explosion and a massive green cloud that +drifts & drifts & drifts. Have fun. +--------------------------------------- +Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tamping.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tamping.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..2d125c9b --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tamping.txt @@ -0,0 +1,47 @@ +Tamping +------- + + Tamping is nothing more than an operation performed before the +explosion, to regulate and direct the destructive power of the explosion. In +other words, if a pound of black powder is ignited with a match, the explosion +will occur but most of the destructive force will take the path of the least +resistance - into the atmosphere. Now, if the same pound of black powder was +placed within a steel pipe, and sealed at both ends, except for a tiny hole +for the fuse, the explosion could be regulated with ease. This tamping +operation is necessary for any forms of demolitions in order that the +operation be successful. A stick of dynamite placed on a concrete roadway +untamped, when exploded will create a very small crater, perhaps a few inches. +If this same stick of dynamite were tamped, by placing several sandbags on +top of if and around it, the explosion would create a much greater crater. +This tamping operation is absolutely necessary for the demolition of a large +structure or building. +[1> When attempting to sever a steel rod or pole, through the use of +explosives, place a charge on each side, leaving a small gap between the butts +of the explosives. +[2> When cutting a chain, place the explosive charge on one side and tape it +securely into place. +[3> When cutting any odd-shaped object, the best explosive to use is plastique +because of its flexibility. It is especially usefull and effective when +cutting heavy metal cables. The compound should be placed around the side of +the cable that is to be cut, about a half-inch thick. + When sabotaging railroad tracks with explosive, use plastique if +available, since this is the easiest substance to use when trying to sever +objects or irregular shapes. The most common way of cutting train tracks is by +placing a charge of high explosives on either side of the "I" beam track, so +as to have the forces of the two explosions act upon each other, thus causing +the middle object maximum destruction. + Another method which has proven equally effective is placing a charge +between the rail and the switch. The switch is one of the weakest points along +the line, and a relatively small charge will not only sever the switch and +rail, but will also rip up the ties and the railroad bed. Tamping with +sandbags can and should be used if at all possible, since the extent of the +damage is multiplied several times by the addition of the sandbags. Tamping +can be useless if you are on a silent lightning-fast mission. In this case, +a two-pound charge of TNT carefully placed between the switch and rail will +almost certainly do the trick without tamping. The best procedure when +engaged in this type of sabotage is to repeat the acts every three-quarters +of a mile or so, so as to delay the repairmen and create confusion. + + ************************************************ + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbar.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbar.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d56aad46 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbar.txt @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ + Bad Ass Retards Presents + -"Plastic Tube Bombs"- + by + Trillion + + I came a across this idea while looking around + a Rockaway Sales hardware store for a suitable pipe for a pipe + bomb. I came across this plastic tubing. It was bendable, yet + was not too thin. I decided to see what I could do with it. + I decided that this would be suitable for a bomb that + could get into "hard to reach places" and bend around corners + for tight fighting spaces. I got about 6 inches of it. I yanked + a fuse out of a pipe bomb because I didn't feel like making them, + but virtually any fuse would be fine. I melted some wax from + the bottom of a candle onto the "mouth" of the tube. This formed + a half circle. + TTTTTT T - Tube TTTTTT + T T w - Wax TwwwwwwT + TwwwwwwwwT F - Fuse TwwwFFwwwT + TwwwwwwT TwwwwwwT + TTTTTT TTTTTT + + Then I placed the fuse on top of the half circle and + melted a little more wax onto it to seal it. I left about 1 1/2 + inches of fuse in the tube. Then I sealed of the rest of the opening. + Then I poured some blackpowder into the other end. Until it was about + halfway full. Then I stuffed tissue paper into it until it was pretty + tight. Then I could have either used more wax or sealed a cap onto it. + You could have also sealed a cap onto the fuse section, but I was too + lazy. Now this cannot bend at 90 degree andgles but it is still + good for a fair curve. Just remember to pack it tightly and to have + sturdy endcaps. Have fun! + - /Trillion\ + BAR '93 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom11.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom11.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ecbcb4c1 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom11.ana @@ -0,0 +1,6596 @@ +THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF 1.1 + +Preface + + + A couple of years ago, I began compiling a file filled with information +from the world-famous BBS Ripco. The basis of this file was, of course, THE +TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK,an incredible book that was never published. Ripco fell +prey to Operation Sundevil. I printed out two copies of this file: Both went +to friends. These are the only copies of the original version of this file in +existence. I suffered a hard disk crash which wiped out the subdirectory in +which my original file resided. Today, August 8th, 1990, at 1 AM, I found a +copy of The Terrorist's Handbook on a BBS, and recombined it with some other +G-files. Hope you like it. And remember, the First Amendment is not a shield. +Care must be taken to ensure that no law is broken when information is gained +or divulged. I have read every word of this file, and swear that no article of +this document is illegal in any way. + + The Editor +4/12/91 -- New guideline: If you modify this file, please put the date and + info about modifications in the revision history. This is to + keep the new versions of the file in order, to aid updating. + +Revision history: + +1987-1989 Compilation of original file +Early 1990 Original file lost in crash +August 8, 1990 File reborn as The Complete Terrorist +March 31, 1991 In February, I had a major loss of data, but regained TCT + from a local BBS. I did some cosmetic work and killed some + redundancies, and renamed the file to TBBOM. Total file size + is now about 172 printed pages. (You may wish to print this + file out and bind it in a binder) +April 12, 1991 File revised by David Richards on Ripco II. Some deletions + and many valuable additions. Message about new additions + added to preface. I (The Editor) felt that the file should + have version numbers, so, in light of the additions by + David Richards, the first volume number is 1.1. + + + THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF + + + + +PART 1 - The Terrorist's Handbook - Self explanatory. + + THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK + +1.0 INTRODUCTION + + Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is +proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First and +foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities +for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The purpose +of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in +this and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social +goals. The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can +usually be carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one +all the more frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this +information, and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques herein +SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH +COULD OCCUR FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. +THIS IS MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! + +Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has some +idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is +the reason for the existence of this publication. + + + +1.1 Table of Contents + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + +2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS +2.01 ........ Black Powder +2.02 ........ Pyrodex +2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder +2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder +2.05 ........ Flash Powder +2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS +2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks +2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY +2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS +2.31 ........ Nitric Acid +2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid +2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES +3.01 ........ Explosive Theory +3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES +3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals +3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate +3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine +3.14 ........ Picrates +3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.21 ........ Black Powder +3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose +3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures +3.24 ........ Perchlorates +3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) +3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.33 ........ ANFOS +3.34 ........ T.N.T. +3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate +3.36 ........ Dynamite +3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives +3.38 ........ Picric Acid +3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) +3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride +3.41 ........ Lead Azide +3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" +3.51 ........ Thermit +3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails +3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle +3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives + + + +4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES +4.1 ....... SAFETY +4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES +4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition +4.22 ........ Impact Ignition +4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition +4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition +4.241 ....... Mercury Switches +4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches +4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators +4.3 ....... DELAYS +4.31 ........ Fuse Delays +4.32 ........ Timer Delays +4.33 ........ Chemical Delays +4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS +4.41 ........ Paper Containers +4.42 ........ Metal Containers +4.43 ........ Glass Containers +4.44 ........ Plastic Containers +4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES +4.51 ........ Shaped Charges +4.52 ........ Tube Explosives +4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions +4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs +4.55 ........ Book Bombs +4.56 ........ Phone Bombs +5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS +5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) +5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition +5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition +5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition +5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) +5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition +5.22 ........ Shotguns +5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) +5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition +5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition +6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS +6.1 ....... ROCKETS +6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb +6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb +6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs +6.2 ........ CANNONS +6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon +6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon +7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA +7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs +7.2 ......... Colored Flames +7.3 ......... Tear Gas +7.4 ......... Fireworks +7.41 ........ Firecrackers +7.42 ........ Skyrockets +7.43 ........ Roman Candles +8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION +9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS +10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY +11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + +2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS + + Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a +pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order +to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something +about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is +used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each +different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder +depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of +powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the +smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. + + +2.01 BLACK POWDER + + Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the +smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely +important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a +confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. +The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual +bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning +powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are +listed below: + + + GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN + ÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles + FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles + FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers + + + The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more +surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades +also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black +powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the +grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of +powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited +accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb +moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon +and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply +pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or +circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine +as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one +wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to +fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since +anyone can own black powder firearms in America. + + +2.02 PYRODEX + + + Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes +in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound +container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black +powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, +and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not +be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to +absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the +same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and +dried. + + +2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER + + One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is +the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are +composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a +fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube +length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, +the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. +This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is +exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on +the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a +plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This +should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be +crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from +1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the +more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per +package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in +stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized +for their explosive powder. + +2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER + + Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle +standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be +referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the +action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is +then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When +dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of +black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared +to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both +hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the +grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary +for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any idiot can buy it, +since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. + +2.05 FLASH POWDER + + Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various +oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated +with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is +sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very +finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The +fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. + + It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot +white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It +is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. + +2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a +commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite +with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is +touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation +will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high +explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro- +glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold- +Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist +of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium +nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, +remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, +airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb +water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers. + +2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS + + The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section +deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. +Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, +and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab +buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most +of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress +shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone asks what +such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the +polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department other than +the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various labs and +departments in a building are by calling the university. There are, of course +other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as placing a piece of +cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back exit. Then, all one +needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before this is done, +terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a lab, even if +there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in +the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never know what +happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob +at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the actual theft is +done. This is advisable since the would- be thief should know when and if the +campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if none of these +methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a rule, college +campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another person in the +building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an odd hour. + + +2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS + + If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most +effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are +unfortu- nately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these +methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. + +These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, +but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule +here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several +devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental +tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket- +knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these +tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch +out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding +whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out +from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum +can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged ends. +Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a single +long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the strips +in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 inch wide +strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U- +shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this: + + + (1) + + _______________________________________________________ v 1/4 +|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4 +|_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch 1/4 +|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4 +|_______________________________________________________| | + ^ + + Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum. This +should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this: + ________________________________________ + /________________________________________| + | | + | | L-shaped + | | + | | + |_| + + _____________________________ + / ___________________________| + | | + | | J-shaped + | | + | |________ + \________| + + _____________________ + / ___________________| + | | + | | + | | U-shaped + | | + | |____________________ + \____________________| + + + All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and pull +the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between the door +and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made properly. + +Addendum 4/12/91 + + Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the +frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to the +above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed with a +slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across +the frame in the vicinty of the latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood +it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will +relock the door and leave few signs of forced entry. + + +2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY + + Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and +drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous +compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some +money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. + +Chemical Used In Available at +________ _______ ____________ + +alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores + solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores + +ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven + +ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, nitrate + fertilizers medical supply stores + +nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores + poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops, The Alley + Belmont/Clark, Chgo +magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores + +lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores + +mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores + +mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores + +sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores + +glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores + +sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store + +charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores + +sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store + +cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores + +strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, + +fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, + +bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, + +potassium permanganate water purification purification plants + +hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores +methenamine (camping) + +nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops + plates photography stores + +Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO + +sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores + (VERY impure) for cutting torches + + +notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a +solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least +95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may +prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + + + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine +and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be +used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. + + @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be +hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other +less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are +available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should +be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury +vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a +good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not +get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. + + ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen +by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A +desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. + + + & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form +that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure +form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be +expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. + + +2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS + +2.31 NITRIC ACID + + + There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for +explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once +again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! + + Materials: Equipment: + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source + potassium nitrate + retort + distilled water + ice bath + concentrated + sulfuric acid stirring rod + + collecting flask with stopper + +1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. + +2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium +nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, +carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. + +3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the +collecting flask in the ice bath. + +4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid +begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric +acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, +or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too +strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can +result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may +explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away +from it. + + Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, +simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur +and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to +dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter +the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the +liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are +insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, +potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. + +2.32 SULFURIC ACID + + Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or +industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car +battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of +a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably +be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, +either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can +also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster +than clean motor oil. + + +2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. +It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice +bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, +ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one +would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water +and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine +powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight +container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals +formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the +remaining water. + + +3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES + + Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE +ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS +TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT +OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. + + These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could +conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually +scaled-down industrial procedures. + + + + + + + +3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY + + An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, +undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that +is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down +into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original +piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air +are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed +greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains +the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: +high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and +primers, which may do both. + + High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order +explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes +through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart +the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate +approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In +a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the +shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to +produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of +high order explosives. + + Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. +when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and +gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under +pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as +gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and +hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; +they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in +unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are +good examples of low order explosives. + + + Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as +mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are +usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low +explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that +they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are +confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a +shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to +decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are +also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a +bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer. + +3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES + + Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here, +only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium +triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no +light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even +the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. + + +3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS + + Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals +that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they +are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such +crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks +across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps +and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, +or heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple +iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate +surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of +the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is +corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on +whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, +and it settles to the ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine +leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are +immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have +little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging +property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a +distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten +almost anyone, since a small crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a +rather loud explosion. + + Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner: + + Materials Equipment + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + iodine crystals funnel and filter paper + + paper towels + clear ammonia + (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars + for the suicidal) + + +1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars +must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. + +2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. + +3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the + funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every + basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a + semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with + one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place + the cone into the funnel. + +4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the +solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. + +5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar +to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. + +6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, +and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that +they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could +well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about +eight chunks. + +7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of +duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape +together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. +Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and +store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about +a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown +away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives +off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way +to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use +them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be +stepped on or crushed. + + +3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE + + + Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating +compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of +infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the +fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably +use the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod + + concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2) + acid (35 ml) + adjustable heat + ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source + + distilled water blue litmus paper + + funnel and filter paper + + +1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, +using the glass rod. + +2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the +solution turns green and boils. + +3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and + carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or + brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. + +4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that +the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the +distilled water to the solution. + +5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid +solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and +toxic. + +6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess +acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are +neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the +wet crystals + +7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from +any explosive or flammable material. + + + This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury +cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of +ethanol to every one volume of mercury. + + +3.13 NITROGLYCERINE + + Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the +most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. +Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to +make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by +the all- to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it +is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts +to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: + + MATERIAL EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + distilled water eye-dropper + + table salt 100 ml beaker + + sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) + + concentrated nitric ice bath container + acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) + + concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer + acid (39 ml) + blue litmus paper + glycerine + + +1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. + +2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a +spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate +dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some +remains undissolved. + +3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and +adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall +temperature. + +4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of + concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker + will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow + into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a + large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of + the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less. + + +5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add + the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two + acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a + good idea to start another ice bath to do this. + +6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one + drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the + mixed acids and glycerine meet. + + DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF + THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!! + + The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will + immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of + glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any + explosive in small quantities. + +7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, +adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in +the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the +nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the +concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. + +8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 +degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine +and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The +nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid +solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid- +water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine. + +9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it +into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate +much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less +likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine +with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if +necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. + +10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean +container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far +away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can +explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place. + + +3.14 PICRATES + + Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or +trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since +they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid +with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating +the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or +produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of +a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is +impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high +explosive. + +3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores +and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store +owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such +an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order +explosives. + +3.21 BLACK POWDER + + First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first +used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to +make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is +converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine +burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by +static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be +made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could +manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium clay grinding bowl + nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder + + or or + + sodium wooden salad bowl + nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon + + sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) + + charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) + + distilled water coffee pot or heat source + + + +1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding + bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or + sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. + +2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a +separate plastic bag. + +3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, + and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. + +4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium +nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no +more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. + +5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. + Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too + hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water. + +6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe + container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never + store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate + static electricity. + + +3.22 NITROCELLULOSE + + Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more +stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It +also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. +Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following +procedure: + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers + + concentrated funnel and filter paper + nitric acid + blue litmus paper + concentrated + sulfuric acid + + distilled water + + + +1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 +cc of concentrated nitric acid. + +2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 +minutes. + +3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to +wash it in. + +4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. + +5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to +be dried and stored. + + +Addendum 4/12/91... true experience From andrew at cmu.edu (internet) + +> I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I +>didn't have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At +>first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold +>soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated, +>cheap and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 +>and a little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so +>little water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered +>concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I +>believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool +>or cotton cloth. +> +>Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with +>nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing +>the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled +>water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?) +>When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water +>quenched the runaway reaction of cellulose. +> +>The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned +>into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether. +> +>Warnings: +> +>All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When +>it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all +>manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in +>the process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will +>happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply. +>Not for the novice. +> +> Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage. The decomposition is auto- +>catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept +>confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is not washed +>well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl +>amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH +>NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture the small +>amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They therefore +>inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case. +> +>Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away +>with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it. +> +> -Larry + + +Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by: + +1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is +recycled. + +2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water. + +3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water. + + If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, +then rinsed in fresh water. + +The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration +will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced. + + There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is +useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not +explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed +to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed. + + CH OH CH ONO + | 2 | 2 2 + | | + C-----O HNO C-----O + /H \ 3 /H \ + -CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O- + \H H/ H SO \H H/ + C-----C 2 4 C-----C + | | | | + OH OH ONO ONO + 2 2 + + CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE + +*End Addendum + + +3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES + + There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be +produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective +and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working +fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each +compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be +given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: + +oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ +potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact + sensitive; unstable + +potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; + charcoal 15% unstable + +potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely + magnesium or unstable! + aluminum dust 25% + +potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable + aluminum dust 33% + +sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable + sulfur 5% burn rate + +potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before + ignition depends +WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size + +potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable + +potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable + magnesium or + aluminum dust 20% + +potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? + +potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is + sulfur 10% black powder! + +potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot + or magnesium 40% + + + + Oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ +potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- + sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches + +ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for + and small amount of space shuttle + iron oxide + +potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% + +potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder + sulfur 20% + +barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate +potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder + +barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate + aluminum dust 5% flash powder + +potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly + magnesium or unstable + aluminum dust 25% + +potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable +calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive + +potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; + aluminum or ignites if + magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! + +potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable + sulfur 10% +================================================================================ + +NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium +perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. + + The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns +AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of +burning. + + As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures +that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), +different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity +of the mixture. + +3.24 PERCHLORATES + + As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid +will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or +sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that +can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or +sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or +potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be treated +with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react +explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium +hydroxide are ideal. + +3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + High order explosives can be made in the home without too much +difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high +explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is +made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) +molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a +material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the +nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in +a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based +explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, +several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. + +3.31 R.D.X. + + R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with +plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is +because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to +detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too +severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, +but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the +surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in +the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of +ammonium nitrate. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + hexamine 500 ml beaker + or + methenamine glass stirring rod + fuel tablets (50 g) + funnel and filter paper + concentrated + nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container + (plastic bucket) + distilled water + centigrade thermometer + table salt + blue litmus paper + ice + + ammonium nitrate + +1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully + pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. + +2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts + of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and + it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could + result. Stir the mixture. + +3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more + ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, + ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold + when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the + temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes + +4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, + and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and + dispose of the corrosive liquid. + +5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. + Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps + 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals + more stable and safe. + +6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely + using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. + +7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% + mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic + bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive. + + +8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. + it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. + +9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it + should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since + ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium + nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the + R.D.X. + +10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a + density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. + +3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap-hazard +method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since +it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to +shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a +drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium +nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather +powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The +diagram below will explain. + + _________________________________________ + | | | + ________| | | + | | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate | + |primer |booster| | + |_______| | | + | | | + |_______|_______________________________| + + The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending a +tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. + + +3.33 ANFOS + + ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO +solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to +pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to +detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by +weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps +the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also +requires a large shockwave to set it off. + + +* Addendum From hayes.ims.alaska.edu (internet) +> +> Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are +>mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful +>commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact that it is +>cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is +>dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. +>To keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk +>truck, which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to +>most of the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a +>dye of some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier +>to distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer. +> +> ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive +>to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. +>Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters +>include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, +>dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. +>The need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water +>susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the atmosphere, and +>becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with +>borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low +>density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no +>good, and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low. +>Generally, the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more +>effective. ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it +>is places, raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds +>to the cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some +>commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises +>power considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive. +> +> Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of +>ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is +>extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends +>a AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More +>oil makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and +>excess fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the mixture is +>oxygen poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as +>the porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with +>various materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from +>being absorbed. + +> Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, +>either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus, +>a pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather +>than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong +>casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite +>well. So will big piles. Thats how the explosive potential was discovered: +>a small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the +>cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big +>bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel +>oil with a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a +>cohesive mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture. +>This is what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The +>military literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it +>is important to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more +>powerful than commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability, +>and thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They +>also tend to go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then +>hey, who doesn't.... +> +> Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual +>mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" +>or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This +>is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus +>demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. +> +> Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the +>manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture +>and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to +>manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those +>who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least +>in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no +>criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need +>a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities +>of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion +>to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old +>folks homes, okay. +> +> Dean Syta, Civil Engineer at large. +*End Addendum + + +3.34 T.N.T. + + T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high +explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known +high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is +the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well +known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is +designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the +product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one +step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very +strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very +strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, +and it is filtered. + + +3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE + + Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be +obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of +vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the +material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, +however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making +such an explosive is outlined below: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag + (9 parts, by volume) + + petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl + (vaseline) or + (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon + +1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, + until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is + powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. + +2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the + plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. put + the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. + +3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the + potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If + necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. + +4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to + greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, + is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. + +3.36 DYNAMITE + + The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. +Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was +made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided +individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) +would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various +materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large +weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate +could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase +the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. + +3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES + + Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All +that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated +nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 +ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. +Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. +Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are +more readily detonated. + + +3.38 PICRIC ACID + + Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military +explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less +sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly +simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and +nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college +chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric +acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, +such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer +form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant +would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric +acid. + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask + + concentrated adjustable heat source + sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) + 1000 ml beaker + concentrated nitric or other container + acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in + + distilled water filter paper + and funnel + + glass stirring rod + + +1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 + ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. + +2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and + bring the water to a gentle boil. + +3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling + water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty + minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for + about five minutes. + +4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to + cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, + steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice + bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the + mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When + the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. + +5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more + tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and + heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. + +6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice + bath until it is cold. + +7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution + through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of + it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. + +8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the + filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. + +9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. + +10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will + react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode + spontaneously. + + +3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE + + Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. +It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than +that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric +acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when +placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear +household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into +a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add +clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. +The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate. + + +3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE + + Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow +liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or +when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to +produce. + +1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do + not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains + undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. + +2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing + hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a + stopper and glass pipe. + +3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the + beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers + together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow + droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down + to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. + + Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate + solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires + timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. + + The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently + heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes + from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating + flask in another flask that contains water. + +4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, + since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. + + +3.41 LEAD AZIDE + + Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other +explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. +It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily +detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to +produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. + + By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, +the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers +together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, +until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker +stops forming. + + Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The +precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead +acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. +Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. + +3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" + + The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be +used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented +here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. + +3.51 THERMITE + + Thermite is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous +amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not +react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both +finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the +oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that +produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat +produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it +is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around. + + MATERIALS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + powdered aluminum (10 g) + + powdered iron oxide (10 g) + +1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. + Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as + homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by + weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts. + + +2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of + potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid + on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The + other method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by + using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can + be ignited. + + +3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS + + First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now +exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, +and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, +such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter +fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large +glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the +flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in +the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. + + Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave +a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the +bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on +impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the +site of impact, and burst into flame. + +Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more +volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture +such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, +and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this +must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown + + +3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE + + The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather +than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best +a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the +very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. +When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays +onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck +by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The +chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced +to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + potassium chlorate glass bottle + (2 teaspoons) (12 oz.) + + sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside + with plastic inside + + conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges + + gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels + + glass or plastic cup and spoon + +1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure + that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid + eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a + cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. + +2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. + +3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. + Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on + the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside + to dry. + +4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of + sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or + enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. + +5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold + the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium + chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to + dry. + +6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing + the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the + bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle + in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. + +7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct + liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on + top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, + simply throw it at any hard surface. + +8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH + COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, + CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. + +9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, + and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should + immediately burst into a white flame. + + +3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES + + Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane +stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To +make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would +be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or +other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, +and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and +expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. + + In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized +fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting +of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the +expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with +gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is +less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed +of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective +way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of +the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal +should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, +or any other flammable gas will do nicely. + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only +to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar +to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the +fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to +detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to +burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation. + + Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into + fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed + in a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding + rooms, rendering it structurally unsound. + +*End addendum + + +4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES + + Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to +apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to +vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED +OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND +IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive would take +would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do +whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb +with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, +and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be +necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it +being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and +build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next +section. + +4.1 SAFETY + + There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak in +terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. + + +4.2 IGNITION DEVICES + + There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic +"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive +mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical +detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are +more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an +electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being +caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to +hide. + +4.21 FUSE IGNITION + + The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite +type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse +in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse +is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It +is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 +for a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers +because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or +lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which +uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system +can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such +things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse +system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains +its simplicity. One such method is described below: + + + MATERIALS + _________ + + strike-on-cover type matches + + electrical tape or duct tape + + waterproof fuse + +1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a +6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the +start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when +the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and +you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown +below: + + Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time + of combustion is 20 seconds. + + 20 seconds + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ = 2.5 seconds per inch. + 8 inches + + If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired + time by the number of seconds per inch: + + 10 seconds + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ = 4 inches + 2.5 seconds / inch + +NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, + AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, + AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! + +2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is + to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and + cut it off. + +3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not + pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard + base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one + to make a second igniter. + +4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches + touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure + not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by + pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to + move. + + +5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, + making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker + faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the + matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. + Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. + + _____________________ + \ / + \ / ------ match book cover + \ / + | M|f|M ---|------- match head + | A|u|A | + | T|s|T | + | C|e|C | + |tapeH|.|Htape| + | |f| | + |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper + |#####|s|#####| + \ |e| / + \ |.| / + \ |f| / + \ |u| / + |ta|s|pe| + |ta|e|pe| + |.| + |f| + |u| + |s| + |e| + |.| + |_| + + + The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. +The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the +matcheads when the match book is pulled. + +6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the + striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In + turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the + burning match heads. + +4.22 IMPACT IGNITION + + Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous +terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it +must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being +transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a +removable impact initiator. + + + The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made +initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such +primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a +cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are +also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package +of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the +way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A +cutaway of a nipple is shown below: + + ________________ + | | + _ | | + | | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| + _______| |^^^^^^^| + | ___________| + | | +no. 11 |_______| +percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing + cap : + here |__________ nipple onto bomb + |____ | + | |^^^^^^^^^| + |_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| + | | + |_________________| + + + When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into +whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed +into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed +on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount +before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The +only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must +strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a +small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when +thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb +with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which +end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the +person carrying the bomb is bumped hard. + + +4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION + + Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and +most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition +work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools +of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a +"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that +could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a +device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted +in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation +sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best +electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting +caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in +packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use +them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military +squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they +explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only +burst into flame. Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive high +explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. +Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, +which in turn, can set of a high order explosive. + + +4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION + + Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of +mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of +switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person +who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it +explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed + + +4.241 Mercury Switches + + Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal +conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room +temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two +electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's +nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to +explain a mercury switch. + + ______________ + A / \ B + _____wire +______/_________ \ + \ ( Hg )| / + \ _(_Hg___)|___/ + | + | + wire - | + | + | + + When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both +contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in +its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can +touch both contacts in the horizontal position. + + If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only +touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury +does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This +type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a +swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the +switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt +the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both +contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or +squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it slammed in +your face by an explosion. + + +4.242 Tripwire Switches + + A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly +invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and +by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. +If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a +tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips +of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between +them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire +can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between +the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When +the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current +to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, +which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the +contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to +explode. + __________________________________ + \_foil___________________________/ + Insert strip of ----------------------------spring + wood with trip- _foil__________________________ + wire between foil /_______________________________\ + contacts. + + +Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the +spring also conducts electricity. + + +4.243 Radio Control Detonators + + In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled +detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be +several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it +explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with +radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could +possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money +involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such +an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is +visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. +Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach +the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, +or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the +rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the +contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times +with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he +controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the +device became a detonator). + +4.3 DELAYS + + A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set +up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost +quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the +different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be +sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it +does. + + +4.31 FUSE DELAYS + + It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for +ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average +cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, +the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker +than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely +to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft +in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition +of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough +oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses +will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure +they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is +determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way +through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the +fuse for a device in the hole formed. + + + |=| + |=| ---------- filter + |=| + | | + | | + |o| ---------- hole for fuse + cigarette ------------ | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + |_| ---------- light this end + + + A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet +of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with +powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a +fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused +with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed +with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A +chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few +bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the +first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party +supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the +fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are +possible. + +Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By +dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling +water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton +string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it +must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of +the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder +or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the +slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of +slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black +powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is +then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed +to dry. + + +4.32 TIMER DELAYS + + Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who +wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location +and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if +it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By +simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and +using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. +The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an +hour is desired. + + The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set +for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that +in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By +removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a +squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. +All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, +connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic +watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the +watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a +timer could be extremely small. + The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can +usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the +recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be +connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be +work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or +electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch +would not have to be stepped up. + + +4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS + + Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some +cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and +capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat +through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum +foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be +open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is +forming does not break the container. + _ _ + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |_____________| | + | | | | + | | sulfuric | | + | | | | + | | acid | | + | | | |---------- aluminum foil + | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) + |_________________| + + + The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured +there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used +to ignite an explosive device in several ways. + + 1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that + eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath + the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be + able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the + acid. + + 2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the +acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium +chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or +the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some +potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this +mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite. + + 3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. + + +4.4 EXPLOSIVE CASINGS + + This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a +complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which +are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. + + + + +4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS + + + Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was +first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very +simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses +for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in +firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, +and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more +interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown +here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The +process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If +one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and +fold one corner so that it looks like this: + ________________________________________________ + | |\ + | | \ + | | \ + |_____________________________________________|___\ + + and then fold it again so that it looks like this: + + ______________________________________________ + | /| + | / | + | / | + |________________________________________/___| + + A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, +pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the +quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. + A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being +careful not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, +it should be taped together very tightly, since this will increase the +strength of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion +when it is lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch +thick triangle, like the one shown below: + + + ^ + / \ ----- securely tape all corners + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \____________________________ + /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse + + +4.42 METAL CONTAINERS + + The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained +explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match +heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- +tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills +the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause +enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode +the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and +the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. + He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would +drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come +out, and so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at +least 3/4 an inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the +fuse in it on tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it +tight. He would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it +tightly, he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe +to the very top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and +pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it would not move +any further. + Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue +paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads +of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which +might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled +bomb is shown in fig. 2. + + ________ ________ + | _____|________________________________|_____ | + | |__________________________________________| | + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| + | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- + | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | |________|_________________________________| | + | |__________________________________________| | + |______| |______| + + endcap pipe endcap + w/ hole + + fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. + + + This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he +did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece +of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. A +major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without +tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it +will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of +copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. + First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making +sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be +folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should +be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be +inserted. + + Next, the bomb- builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, +and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold +the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he +would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off +heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: + + ________ + _______________________________________________/| | +| | o | | +|______________________________________________ | | + \_|______| + + fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) + + ______ + ____________________________________________/ | | + | | | + | o | | + |___________________________________________ | | + \__|__| + + fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) + + ____________ fuse hole + | + v + _________________________________________________ + | \ |____ | + | \____| | + | ______| + | / + |_____________________________/__________________ + + fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) + + + A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low- +order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. +But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a +pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2 +cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning +fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called +"crater makers". + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + From personal experience, I have found that a CO2 cartridge is + easiest to fill if you take a piece of paper and tape it around the + opening to form a sort of funnel: + +A full \ / Use a punch or sharp philips (+) screwdriver to +cartridge \ / enlarge the pin-hole opening on a used cartridge. +can also be \ / +fun- @ It doesn't seem to be neccessary to seal the hole, + / \ but if you must do so, Epoxy and electrical tape +toss it into | | work quite well. +a lite fire | | +and it will (__) CONDENSATION may form inside a recently used +explode, and bottle- if you must use one right after emptying +the CO2 may it, heat it in a warm oven to dry it out. +extinguish the flames. + +*End Addendum + + A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermite incendiary +device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so +that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The +fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the +thermite . + + The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low- +order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the +latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller +low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order +explosive would probably be used. + _____________________________________ + | _ | + | / \ | + | High Explosive filler |LO ======= + | \_/ | + |____________________________________| + + + If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, +then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, +which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. + +4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS + + Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are +problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily +compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely +event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be +seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample +perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still +has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his +ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... + + Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a +demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal +detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill +the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly +in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. + ________________________ fuse + | + | + | + _____|_____ + | ___|___ | + | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; + | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap | > +| < | + | | | + | | + | | + | | screw cap on bottle + | | + | | + V V + _________ + < > + < > + < > + / \ + / \ + / \ + | | fill bottle with low-order explosive + | | + | | + | | + | | + |___________| + + + Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, +since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive +that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger +than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for +high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand +the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was +able to detonate. + +4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS + + Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since +they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping +can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones +used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with +plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not +detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by +heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be +glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used +as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a +drying agent works best in this type of device. + + || || + || || + ||\_____________/|| + || || + || epoxy || + ||_______________|| + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||** explosive **|| + ||***************|| + ||***********----------------------- fuse + ||***************|| + ||ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + || || + || epoxy || + || _____________ || + ||/ \|| + || || + || || + + + One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the +device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of +tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC +pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had +an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be +used in this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + In my experience, epoxy plugs work well, but epoxy is somewhat +expensive. One alternative is auto body filler, a grey paste which, when +mixed with hardener, forms into a rock-like mass which is stronger than +most epoxy. The only drawback is the body filler generates quite a bit +of heat as it hardens, which might be enough to set of a overly +sensitive explosive. + One benefit of body filler is that it will hold it's shape quite +well, and is ideal for forming rocket nozzles and entire bomb casings. + +*End Addendum + + +4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES + + The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person +who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this +information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. +Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a +minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost +always involve high- order explosives. + +4.51 SHAPED CHARGES + + A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the +explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used +to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of +pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order +explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL +EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! + + An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + + + wire ________ _______ - wire + _ _________|_________|____________ + ^ | ________|_________|__________ | + | | | | | | | + | | | \ igniter / | | + | | | \_______/ | | + | | | priming charge | | + | | | (mercury fulminate) | | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | / \ | | + 8 inches high | | / \ | | + | | / high \ | | + | | | / explosive \ | | + | | | / charge \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch + | | | / \ | | thick steel + | | | / \ | | pipe + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | hole for | | | | hole for + | screw | | | | screw + V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ + |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| + + |<------- 8 inches -------->| + + If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would +direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the +opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in +the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A +device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a +powerful electromagnet. + + +4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES + + A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that +shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a +sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive +container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be +produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This +type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a +telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely +destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive +would look like this: + + ||\____/|| + || epoxy|| ÚÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ + ||------|| ³ RDX ³ another *Addendum ³ + ||tissue|| ÃÄÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ´ + || paper|| ³ NO ³ + ||______|| ³ 2 ³ + ||******|| ³ | ³ + ||******|| ³ N ³ + ||******|| ³ / \ ³ + || RDX || ³ / \ ³ + ||*____*|| ³ H C H C ³ + ||*| s|*|| ³ / 2 2 ³ + ||*| q|*|| ³ / | ³ + ||*| u|*|| ³ O N N--NO ³ + ||*| i|*|| ³ 2 \ / 2 ³ + ||*| b|*|| ³ \ / ³ + ||*| b|*|| ³ \ / ³ + ||*|__|*|| ³ CH ³ + ||__||__|| ³ 2 ³ + ||tissue|| ³ ³ + || paper|| ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ + ||--||--|| + || epoxy|| + || || || + ||/ || \|| + || || || + ||_______ + wire ______________ + |________ - wire ______________ + + + When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it +around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube bomb +together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, and +detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. + + +4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS + + If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small +particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion +similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The +tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, +pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and +ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would +push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized +particle explosion. + If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable +substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or +other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be +extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon +jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the +charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If +this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would +surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to +accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. +Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary +that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a +low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the +flammable material. + + +4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS + + An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the +light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead +light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes +with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the +lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a +lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must +be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue +gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other +bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or +oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down +to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive +material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base, +it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the +bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the +bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a +working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into +the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much +success, since nobody can search the room for a bomb without first turning on +the light. + + +4.55 BOOK BOMBS + + Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where +perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by +authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to +set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called +a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. + Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the +hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, +large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a +bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place +where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb +can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. + First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an +entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the +bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold +all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has +cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the +pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page +must be thoroughly soaked. + It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to +the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both +covers and clamping the pages together in a vice works best. When the pages +dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now +rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the +coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle +of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. +The pages, when drilled out, should look like this: + + ________________________ + | ____________________ | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |__________________| | + |______________________| + + (book covers omitted) + + This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. +After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled +variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever +timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from +rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio +control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is +taken to its destination. + + +4.56 PHONE BOMBS + + The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to +kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the +person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high +explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the +current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the +high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is +acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. + Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's +leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section +3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is +surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. + When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, +he will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow +through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a +phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the +tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the +device explodes... + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig +the device as follows: + _________ FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL + /|-------|\ Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece, + ~ | | ~ (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive + @@@@@@@@ the full line power, not just to audio power to the earpiece) + @@@@@@@@@@ + @@@@@@@@@@ Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back + in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the + circuit to the detonator.... + + +5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS + + Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social +deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over +individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to +kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from +crossbows to shotguns. + + +5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS + + For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive +that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This +means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. + +5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION + + Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is +extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter +to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum +piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire +segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates +upon impact, or with a fuse. + All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and +diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube +with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to +about 1/2 an inch from the top. + Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the +tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 +percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue. + Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and +make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and +glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: + + ____________ +___|____________\____________________ +\ ---. +/__ ________________________________---` + |____________/ + + + When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap explodes, +igniting or detonating the explosive. + + +5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS + + The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A +blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or +poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is +not difficult. + Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, +such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule +could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the capsule would be +re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional high explosive +charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, if one of the +larger capsules were used. + Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel +or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure +that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. + Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the +tassel or cotton, and look something like this: + ____________________ + /mercury | \----------------------- + (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels + \________|___________/----------------------- + + + +5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS + + A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble +about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be +lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the +relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the +wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. + + A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating +device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. + Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted +with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to +make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did +not explode before it reached its intended target. + Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber +blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they +must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. + + +5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS + + + When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and +rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with +a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be +difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There +is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition +is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the +slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For +this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. + + +5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS + + If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her +handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive +explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, +and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole +in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of +an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in +the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed +exploding bullet is shown below. + + _o_ ------------ drop of wax + /|*|\ + | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive + | |_| | + |_____| + + This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. + + +5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS + + Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some +extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell +is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, +if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the +bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched +weapons. + Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the +shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end +of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. + Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. +This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect +4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it +must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel +back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the +dowel. + Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire +the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are +possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: + ____ + || | + || | + || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel + || | + ||__| + || | + || | ------- fuse + || | + || + || + || + || --------- dowel + || + || + || + || --------- insert this end into shotgun + || + || + + + +5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS + + This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for +compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, +and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids +toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. + + +5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS + + A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or +pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber +of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a +muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 +caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made +that has a caliber of .177. + Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to +ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, +since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when +struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown +at a hard surface at a great speed. + Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are +inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard +surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as +that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, +and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: + + _____ primers _______ + | | + | | + | | + V V + ______ ______ + | ________________________ |------------------- + | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or + | ________________________ |------------------- cotton + |_____ _____|------------------- + ^ + | + | + |_______ antenna tubing + + The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The +tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. +Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to +insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile +should be about 3/4 of an inch long. + + + +5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS + + + A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at +close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be +adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in +section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or +smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one +would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition +primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 +cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. + + +6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS + + Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. +Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are +difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to +make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such +things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to +fear. + + +6.1 ROCKETS + + Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before +the myth of christ began. They were used for entertainment, in the form of +fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were +inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets +are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have +no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military +rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular +hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, +a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket +engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 +lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a +significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger +rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket +engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most +model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help +explain them. + + _________________________________________________________ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing + \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| + _______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| + / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| + /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + casing + + + The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled +"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a +propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of +hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket +forward. + After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is +ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that +has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, +white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be +seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. + When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". +The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, +exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the +parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a +bomb... + + Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine +labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an +indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" +engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The +number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in +pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the +thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" +indicates a 3 second delay. + +NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum + dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The + mixture is bound together by an epoxy. + + +6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB + + A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered +to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device +would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from +balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" +engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater +maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure +that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over +the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. +The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. + + + ____________ rocket engine + | _________ crater maker + | | + | | + V | + _______________________________V_ + |_______________________________| ______________________ + \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ + \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ + __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) + / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / + /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ + |_______________________________| + + thrust> - - - - - - + smoke> *** + ejection charge> :::: + + + Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket +engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge +Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such +as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. + + Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that +the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: + + |\ + | \ + | \ + | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine + | \ + | \ + | \ + | | + | | + | | + leading edge | + -------> | + | | + | | trailing edge + | | <-------- + | | + | | + | | + | | + \_____/ + + + The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so +that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two +inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch +it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment +of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the +fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. + + | + fin | <------ fin + | | | + | | | + | __|__ | + V / \ V + ---------------| |--------------- + \_____/ + |o <----------- segment of plastic straw + | + | + | <------ fin + | + | + + By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a +launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is +simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic +straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one +illustated on the following page: + + ____ + / \ + | | + cut here _____ | + | | + | | + | / \ + V / \ + _________________/ \________________ + / \ + / \ + /____________________________________________\ + ^ + | + | + and here ______| + + + Bend wire to this shape: + + + _______ insert into straw + | + | + | + V + ____________________________________________ + \ + \ + \ + \ + \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle + | + | + | + | + | + | <---------- put this end in ground + | + + +6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB + + Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model +rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in +multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of +such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection +charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an +"0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and +burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the +thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing +an overall loss of weight. + + The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as +travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed +somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket +to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. +This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving +the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the +rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker + | | + | | + |___| + | | + | | + | | + | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine + /| 6 |\ + / | | | \ + / | 5 | \ + / |___| \ ---- fin + / /| |\ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | C | \ \ + | / | 6 | \ | + | / | | | \ | + | / | 0 | \ | + |/ |___| \| + | / \ | + \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin + | + | + | + | + C6-0 rocket engine + + The fuse is put in the bottom engine. + + Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it +a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the +fin area gets larger. + + +6.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS + + "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is +simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be +done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers +and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a +rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive +devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the +following page: + + ___ + / \ The crater makers are attached to + | | the tube of rolled paper with tape. the + | C | paper tube is made by rolling and gluing + | M | a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. The + |___| tube is glued to the engine, and is + ___| |___ filled with gunpowder or black powder. + | | | | Small holes are punched in it, and the + | | T | | fuses of the crater makers are inserted + / \ | U | / \ in these holes. A crater maker is glued + / \| B |/ \ to the open end of the tube, so that its + | || E || | fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is + | C || || C | inserted in the engine, or in the bottom + | M || || M | engine if the rocket bomb is multi + | ||___|| | stage, and the rocket is launched from + \___/| E |\___/ the coathanger launcher, if a segment of + | N | a plastic straw has been attached to it. + /| G |\ + / | I | \ + / | N | \ + / | E | \ + / |___| \ + / fin/ | \ fin\ + | / | \ | + \__/ | \__/ + + ^ + |____ fin + + +6.2 CANNON + + The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th +century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, loaded, +and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, +otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the +barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, +if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience. + + +6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON + + + A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only +difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. +This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or +aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick +to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. + + + If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile +can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such +a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very +smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. +Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or +tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the +crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two +teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by +ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. +Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. +If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will +not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: + + __________________ fuse hole + | + | + V + ________________________________________________________________ + |_______________________________________________________________| + |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge + | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ + |_|______________________________________________________________| + + An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 +cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and +construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the +cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except +for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a +tissue paper packing wad. + ___ + When the cannon is fired, it ( ) +will ignite the end of the |C | +fuse, and shoot the CO2 | M| +cartridge. The | | +explosive-filled cartridge | | +will explode in about three \ / +seconds, if all goes well. [] <--- taped fuse +Such a projectile would look [] +like this: [] + ! <--- Bare fuse (add matchheads) + + +6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON + + ___ A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a + / \ normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A + | | rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket + | C | alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the + | M | initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is + | | moving will go further than one that is launched when it + | | is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal + |___| rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look + | E | like the image to the left. + | N | + | G | the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, + | I | but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection + | N | charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection + | E | charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb + |___| explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the + burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and + simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high + velocity. + + +7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA + + There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of violence +might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large military +smoke bombs can be bought through ads in gun and military magazines. Also, +fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display rocket +would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the +ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, +which consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running +through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive +high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the +sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large +crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. + + +7.1 SMOKE BOMBS + + One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in +many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway +route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it +to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of +a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the +military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, +such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped +terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. + + Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as +black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn +well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but +not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, +produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount +of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke +ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many +chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and +sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer +mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base +powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful +smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and +contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse +enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an +explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt +and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to +prevent an explosion. + +7.2 COLORED FLAMES + + Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by +putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the +ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that +produce the different colors of flames appear below. + +COLOR MATERIAL USED IN + +red strontium road flares, + salts red sparklers + (strontium + nitrate) + +green barium salts green sparklers + (barium nitrate) + +yellow sodium salts gold sparklers + (sodium nitrate) + +blue powdered copper blue sparklers, + old pennies + +white powdered magnesium firestarters, + or aluminum aluminum foil + +purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, + treating sewage + +7.3 TEAR GAS + + A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it +with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to +make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize +its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. + + + + EQUIPMENT FOR MAKING TEAR GAS + _________ + + 1. ring stands (2) 7. clamp holder + 2. alcohol burner 8. condenser + 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 9. rubber tubing + 4. clamps (2) 10. collecting flask + 5. rubber stopper 11. air trap + 6. glass tubing 12. beaker, 300 ml + + MATERIALS + _________ + + 10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water + +1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms +of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. + +2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. + +3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. + +4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a + brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. + Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is + corrosive. + +5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting + flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place. + + +7.4 FIREWORKS + + While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, +they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several +basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, +profit, or nasty uses. + +7.41 FIRECRACKERS + + A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The +instructions are below: + + 1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. + "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. + + 2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it +with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the +tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the +package. + + 3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and +insert a desired length of fuse. + + 4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash +powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, +or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the +tube almost to the top. + + 5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and +a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more +epoxy. + + 6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow + it to dry. + + 7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash +powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing +the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the explosion +will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler +material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color +as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. +White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY +crumpled balls of aluminum foil. + + Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode + with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. + + First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material +inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. + Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. +(NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND +EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash powder to +1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum +foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the +house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I +would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in +the firecracker. + + 8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, +professional to semi-professional displays can be produced. + + +7.42 SKYROCKETS + + An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from +model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. + + 1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that +the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) + + 2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits +the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue. + + 3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the +powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at +least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about +1/2 an inch. + + 4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, +various types of effects can be produced. + + 5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick +in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be +produced. + + 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with +the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. + + +7.43 ROMAN CANDLES + + Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to +make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well +worth the trouble. + + 1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with +several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the +tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths. + + 2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy +and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. + + 3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and + insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse + fits tightly. + + 4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the + tube. + + 5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired + color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small + amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material + / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, + one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. + This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when +left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow +the ball to dry. + + 6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down + fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack +it gently against the ball with a pencil. + + 7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in + a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored + fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This + height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, + or by using a slightly longer tube. + + 8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. + + 9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, + producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. + +8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION + + Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained +through a public or university library. There are also many publications that +are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to +make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary +magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of +places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also +includes fireworks companies and the like. + + +COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, + P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING + MURFREESBORO, TN + 37133 + + UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE + BOX 1378-SN + HERMISTON, OREGON + 97838 + + AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH + SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES + DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328 + + BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, + 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES + P.O. BOX 226 + PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 + + CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS + P.O. BOX 22927 + ROCHESTER, NEW YORK + 14692 + + R. ALLEN PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION + P.O. BOX 146 BOOKS & FORMULAS + WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090 + + MJ DISTRIBUTING FIREWORKS FORMULAS + P.O. BOX 10585 + YAKIMA,WA 98909 + + EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, + 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES + RENO, NEVADA + 89509 + + + COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451 + JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN + 53547 + + NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 + STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT + 06095 + + RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 + EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 + + STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW + WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD + RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 + + WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS + P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) + ROCHESTER, INDIANA 46975 + +BOOKS +ÄÄÄÄÄ + +THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK + +THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL + +MILITARY EXPLOSIVES + +FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS + + +9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS + + In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she +wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the +chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order +of priority would probably resemble the following: + + LIQUIDS SOLIDS + _______ ______ + + ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate + ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate + ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) + ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate + ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium + ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum + ____ Potassium Permanganate + GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of) + _______ ____ Mercury + ____ Potassium Nitrate + ____ Hydrogen ____ Potassium Hydroxide + ____ Oxygen ____ Phosphorus + ____ Chlorine ____ Sodium Azide + ____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Lead Acetate + ____ Barium Nitrate + + 10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY + + In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic +ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge +of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following +reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school +chemistry book. + + +1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide +K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O + 4 4 2 + +2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide + " + HNO ----> KNO + " + 3 3 + +3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " + 3 4 3 4 +4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " + 3 3 3 3 + +5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium + +A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H + 3 2 + +B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al + 3 2 + + The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container +which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and +sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high +explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great +excess. + +11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently attending a +college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering. He was +raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school +education there. He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about +eight years of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it +was slightly more powerful than a large firecracker. He continued to produce +explosive devices for several years. He also became interested in model +rocketry, and has built several rockets from kits, and designed his own +rockets. + While in high school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and +eventually became the head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at +age 18, he produced his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep +crater in an associate's back yard. He had also produced many types of +rockets, explosive ammunition, and other pyrotechnic devices. + While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, he was injured when a +home made device exploded in his hand; he did not make the device. The author +learned, however, and then decided to reform, and although he still +constructs an occasional explosive device, he chooses to abstain from their +production. + An occasional rocket that produces effects similar to that of professional +displays can sometimes be seen in the midnight sky near his college, and the +Fourth of July is still his favorite day of the year. + + Pax et Discordia, + the Author + + +Addendum 4/12/91 by kadokev@iitvax.iit.edu + + +END OF PART 1 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST + +PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons +------ Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of + 15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing! + + Addendum by David Richards: + The POINT BBS at (312) 338-0632 offers free access to several usenet + message areas. + + Addendum by The Editor: If you aren't in the Chicago area, + check a local BBS list. If you see a BBS which runs under UNIX, + odds are it carries usenet. The appropriate place to look is + rec.pyrotechnics. + + +At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather +than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a bunch +of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or +more. + At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes +punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a small hole in the side at +the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it +reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then +placed therein. + + In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic +solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and +sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics, +we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato +chips provided spectacular entertainment. + + Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole +in the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The +"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it. + +BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that! +---------- + Our version of the potatoe chip cannon, was built similarly. Ours used +coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had church +key holes all around one end. This was spiral wrapped with at least two +rolls of duct tape. + A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For +ignition we used lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push +button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way +back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of +two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through the other hole. + + We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When fired +with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range the +ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle. Closer up +the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a +moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside. +Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls. + + +PART 3 - Fun with dry ice. LOTS of fun with dry ice. Also from the Usenet. + +> ... if you fill a pot with boiling water, then add some dishsoap, and then +> drop in a large chunk of dry ice, you get a large number of bubbles VERY +> quickly. We're talking terabubbles. Do this outside or you will be sorry. + +>Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it +>into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really impressive if the +>water is warm enuff + +from _FM 10-0: TRICKS, AWFUL_ (includes material from rec.humor): + +DRY ICE + +Time Bombs: + +1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans +that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister +would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair +amount of effort to open). + +Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite sealing it. +Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back. + +Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention is +drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere within a +few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then leave. + +Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a loud +"pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when the CO2 pressure +becomes sufficient to blow off the lid. + +In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will proabably +never figure out what made the noise. + +2. Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many +chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the +cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute +(your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying water +everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle. + +More things to do with Dry Ice: + "I put it in my teacher's coffee. (Holy sh-t, the place is on fire!)" +"Throw it in toilets. (Creature from the Brown Lagoon)" + "Make soda from ordinary juice, etc." + "Blow up balloons and condoms with it (Put a chunk in a balloon, tie up +the end.)" + + "Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..." "You can +safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you KEEP IT MOVING +CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire." Fluorescein (the stuff +in navy-surplus sea dye markers) is effective in swimming pools. Or try a +"Baby Ruth" candy bar... + + +PART 4 + More Fun Stuff for Terrorists + + Carbide Bomb + +This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium +carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at +nearly any hardware store. + Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a +glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with +the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in +cutting torches. + Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a +burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! + + Portable Grenade Launcher + +If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum +arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns +easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule +went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one +is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminim go all over the place!! + + Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower + +For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. +Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby +drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is +regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The +other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. +With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be +careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 +feet!!! + +PART 5- This is all various files I gleaned from BBS's. (Added 8-23-90) + + This works best if you happen to have a lot of derelict friends, as I +do... Your first day of school you should bring the following items, to +insure a prosperous school year: + + 1) Fountain pen (and extra ink refills) + 2) 3 tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue) + 3) Pennies (about $1.00 worth) + 4) Balloons (small sized for convenience) + 5) Mirror (small hand held) + 6) Liquid soap + 7) Lighter, (matches as alternate) + 8) Firecrackers (ladyfingers are great) + 9) Screwdrivers and other tools (small) + 10) Small squeezable bottles (like nasal de-congestant type) + 11) Wire (10-20 ft) + 12) Tape recorder mic. (batter operated pref.) + 13) Ziplock baggies + 14) Half of an orange + 15) Light bulb (75 watts and over are great) + + This will do for now... Some of the cool things to do are, take the +pennies and glue them to the cafeteria tables, (and watch the custodians try +to get 'em off). (this also looks good with silver dollars glued to the fire +alarm (so it goes off when the custodian attempts to remove the coin) and to +a door someplace... (principals preferably) + + Another thing to do with a coin is, heat it up over a bunsen burner (in +chem) and just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will +guarantee you will know when the coin is picked up... While you're using the +bunsen burner, fill your little squeeze bottle with gas, then cap it tight and +put it in your pocket... later, take a firecracker, and glue it to the +bottle, use a cigarette as a fuse extension, then put it in the bathroom, and +get to class fast... (gas and glue make a nice flame)... + While you're in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door, and +when the superintendent goes to see what the explosion was, he gets a nice +little surprise... + Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no +one is in the room, take off the speaker cover on the PA system, and hook 2 +wires from it, to your mic. ( then into your locker) This is good for get-ting +your friends out of classes... Just ask for them... (use your tools for that +one, and try to be neat about it)... + + Now for your mirror, you can use this for getting your, uh... +"Friend's" locker combination... after you get that, take that little baggie +you got, and put the orange in it... let it sit for a week or four, then open +the baggie, and place it in your friends locker... I can guarantee he/ she +will love it... + + Another thing that is fun to do, is, Take a penny, and glue it over +the key hole on your friends gym locker, just after he goes out, thus he has +to truck around all day in his gym stuff, (unless you rent him your +screwdriver to pry the penny off) + + Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas +that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the balloon +tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones +that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get +the picture? Good... + + Those fountain pens are cool, because if you make a slight jerking +motion with your hand, ink squirts all over the room, (or person, whatever +you're aiming at) It is a good idea not to let the teachers know you have one +of those, it makes it too easy to find out who did it when there's ink all +over the principals face... (or on the floors, walls, and ceilings...) + + Liquid soap is great for use in crowded hallways, it turns every-body +into a ice skating star, (works especially well when people come in from the +rain)... If your school is anything like the one I go to, people never flush +the toilets, A little liquid soap in here makes for a nice surprise, I mean, +what happens when the soap is not flushed out of the toilet, and the suds +aren't flushed out either? The janitors have a really good time trying to +figure out that one... (glue a quarter in one of the urinals, always fun)... +Turn off the water under the sinks too. Getting back to the soap, it is also +good on the hand railings in hall-ways and on steps, If you mix perfume with +it, some poor grub has to have that stench on him all day. + +- The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / Exilic Xyth - Sysop / 24 hours 9600 + The Modern Speeders Guide to Radar and State Troopers + By : Exilic Xyth January 11, 1988 + + Introduction: + + Touched off by the discussion on Ripco <312>-528-5020, I found many +users asking questions about police radar, radar detectors, and speeding. With +Ron Majors talking about the oil spill that will appear in detail on the news +at ten I thought a informative file on the subject might be beneficial. I +myself had my first experience with police radar in my fathers car, then +following in baseball and my own driving, much more on the subject. What a +fascinating device, that it will return your speed instantly, what fun one +would be to have! After a quick talk with a police friend of mine, I soon +took possession of a used police radar gun. + + Part one: Operation. + + Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best demonstrated by sound +rather than microwaves. The doppler effect is the relation of speed to the +pitch of 'sound'. Sometime, all of you must have had the distinct pleasure of +being honked at by a motorist on the go, you might have noticed that the horn + begins with a higher pitch and as the car +passes, drowns off to a lower tone. The sound waves at the front of the car +are pressed together by the forward motion of the car, creating a higher +pitch. As the car passes, the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the +waves are spread out. + + Police radar works in much the same way. The major differences are the +frequency and the concentration of the carrier. As of 1988, the F.C.C. is +rumored to have lifted restrictions on police radar frequencies. Before, only +two frequencies were approved for police radar use. X-band <10.525 GHz> which +is most commonly used, and K-band <24.15 Ghz>. I will assume for now, due to +lack of any SOLID evidence supporting the restriction lift, that those are the +only two in operation. Police radar 'beams' are similar in shape to a +flashlight beam. They begin with a thin width and cone outwards with +distance. Most guns operating at the X-band level have a range of about 2000 +ft., although high power units can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns +fall shorter at about 1200 ft.. At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the +width of four highway lanes, so for practical purposes radars range is around +1700 ft.. + + A radar signal transmitted from the 'Radar Gun's' transmitter, (called the +oscillator) will bounce off a object and return to the radar receiver (or +antenna). If the object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be altered +as it bounces. This is most easily visualized watching water ripples. Assume +now that I have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving +outward, assume also for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at +1 foot per second, and that they are one foot apart. The ripples are +therefore also one second apart. Upon bouncing off a stationary object the +ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed . + + Now let us assume that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per +second, 1/2 the speed of the ripples, away from the point which I dropped the +pebble. Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and is traveling back. The +second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the boat +by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second - .5 ft. per second>. This means +that the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot +apart. The ripple will take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed +is .5 ft. per second and the distance is 1 foot. The ripple strikes the boat +and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple. The process works +inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact. + + As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the +other side, the speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples. +Police radar works in the same way with microwaves. The microwave signal +bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in frequency. In this way +the radar unit determines the speed of the object. + + Radar is only accurate when the object is moving directly at, or directly +away from the gun, although some modern guns will account for this 'COSINE +error', most won't. Cosine error can be defined as this: When a radar signal +bounces off an object at an angle from the objects direction of travel it will +return a portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of the infraction +angle. If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is 20 +degrees the speed returned by the radar is 93.97% of the objects actual speed. +cos (20) = .93969262 * objects speed = returned speed. + + For example: A car is traveling at 75 m.p.h.. The state trooper, in his +infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile in hopes of meeting his +quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and fires an +invisible beam of microwave energy. The officer however, being the rookie he +is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45 degrees. +Cos (45) = .707106781 .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859 53 m.p.h. is +displayed on the officers screen. Lucky motorist. Sorry 40 column users. + + |\ + | \ + | \ + | \ - Cosine Error - + | \ + | 45 \ + | deg. \ - radar beam + | \ + | \ + v \ + Direction of \ + cars travel \ + \ + X - state trooper. + + Part 2: Application + + In 1986, over 15 million speeding tickets were issued, and experts +estimate that over 25% of them were in error. Police have been using radar +for speed control for many years, and as the technology has become more +complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away with the slight +infractions of the speed limits set by the government become more difficult. +In recent years, the three most damaging advances to motorists in radar +technology include: + + A> Instant on radar. + B> K-band radar. + and C> Cosine error correcting radar units. + + Instant on radar. + With the increase of radar receivers, or "Detectors" on the roads, +police have attempted to bypass the motorists first line of defense. The most +damaging advance in the war against speeding motorists is instant on radar. +The idea behind instant on radar is to make the radar detector useless to the +motorist by making his warning too late to react to. Instant on radar was +developed in early 1983, but never marketed until late 1984 when the michigan +state troopers were equipped with the first instant on radar guns. It +operates by deactivating the oscillator until triggered by the officer. When +used properly and under the right traffic conditions, it is indefensible. It +works like a camera, the officer operating the radar will position himself +behind a blind corner or over a hill. When the approaching car crests the +hill or rounds the corner, the officer will activate the oscillator, taking a +"snapshot" of your car. As microwaves travel at the speed of light, any +attempt at slowing down is futile, the officer behind the gun has your speed +in less than a tenth of a second. + + K-band Radar. + When radar detectors were first marketed by the markers of ESCORT, +there was only one type of radar. X-band. In an attempt to increase the +dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-band was brought to life. K- band is a +different frequency that could not be picked up by the primitive detectors of +the age. However, as the frequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now +any detector worth a dollar will detect both X and K bands. K band is more +dangerous as most K-band guns are instant on and they have less 'Splash' and +range than X-band guns. This means that a K-band signal is probably closer to +you. + + Cosine error correcting guns. + + Cosine error was a major falling of radar in the judicial system, all +readings were under question in court, the result was a gun which will correct +for cosine error by determining the angle which the radar beam "impacts" with +the car. Also new in correcting cosine error were guns with 'Speed lock on' +in which the highest speed reading received by the gun is locked in and +displayed. + + Moving radar guns. + + Until new developments, all radar units had to remain stationary as +radar measures only closure speed, and not actual speed. Moving radar ended +this trend. Moving radar works like this. First the radar gun determines the +patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixed object. The closing speed of +the patrol car to the sign is subtracted from the now taken closing speed to +the target car. + + Patrols speed - 60 m.p.h. + Closing speed to car - 120 m.p.h. + 120 m.p.h. - 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h.. + + + Part 3: Defense + From the dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have sought to defeat the +laws, starting with detectors, continuing to jammers and topping out with the +new 'CHiPs detectors' The unfortunate conditions now favor the police and law +enforcement officials with the introduction of new radar technologies such as +instant on radar. + + Detectors: + + The simple radar receiver is the first line of defense +from radar. Varied in operation and features, the radar detectors of today are +designed to provide high sensitivity and low rates of false alarms. Good +detectors will measure signal strength and type and have an effective +range of about 3000 ft. and a probable range of well over a mile. Sensitivity +tops out around 110.5 dBm/cm^2 for X band and 108 dBm/cm^2 for K band . A detector can give you an excellent advantage over radar by +alerting you it's there. Detectors become especially useful in chicago where +instant on radar is not typically used. + + Jammers: + Radar jammers are essentially units that transmit microwaves at a +frequency dictating a certain speed. The result is regardless of your speed, +the police radar unit will display the speed you set the jammer to transmit. +Jammers are highly illegal and will be confiscated if discovered, expect a +stiff fine. + + Chip's detector. + + This is a new device, which is really a scanner on the police radio +band. It takes advantage of a signal transmitted by the patrol cars in some +states as part of their dispatch system. The signal carries for about three +miles, and the Chip's Detector will alert you if you are within that range of +a highway patrol unit. It also allows scanning of police radio channels. + + Last words. + + Radar is a basically accurate instrument, when used properly, it can be +deadly. As I have said before instant on radar is impossible to avoid when +there is no other traffic around, regardless of a detector. The only thing +that comes close is a Radar Jammer, which will most likely not serve you well +unless it is WELL hidden. Radar jammers are dangerous with the introduction +of the HAWK, a radar unit by Kustom Signals, which DETECTS radar jammers in +the hold mode. + + Aside from radar, VASCAR is + a new danger to motorists. It is basically a stopwatch used to time your + movement between two point of which the interval distance is known. + Using the formula Average velocity = distance / time, the state trooper + can determine your speed without setting off your detector. + + Instant on radar defense. + + The only real defense for instant on radar is traffic. Traffic will +cause the trooper to activate his radar gun more often, cluing you into his +presence. A jammer well hidden will help, but the best technique is to follow +a car making good time. Any police units in the area will clock him first, +and legally they have to ticket him, unless you're too close. + +Remember: + Do not speed, it is a dangerous practice, and I can not be responsible for +any injury, or action due to this file, it is for informational purposes +only. The state troopers enforce speed limits for your safety. + + Radar guns: Models. + + Radar guns are manufactured by many different companies, but the +primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur. The +deadliest gun now available is the HAWK manufactured by Kustom Signals. It is +the first gun capable of clocking cars moving the SAME direction as the patrol +car. It has two antennas, one forward, and one back. Like I stated before, +it is also the first gun capable of detecting radar jammers. These run about +$~2000 + + Kr-11 + This gun is a two piece model which uses a weak pulse signal in the +moving mode to determine the patrol car's speed while not triggering +detectors. This gun permits a faster clocking time for instant on moving +radar, it runs about $~1200 + + Falcon + This is a hand held gun operating on K band Small and compact it is +preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about 600$ + + Hr-4 Hr-8 Hr-12 + 400,500,750$ respectively, these are hand held radar guns made by +Kustom Signals + + All these units are available to you via me for less than the troopers +pay for them. For prices, and statistics, call my board at (312) - 787 - 2174 +or send me mail at Ripco (312) 528-5020 + + Prices for radar units range from 250-2000$ + I personally enjoy harassing that 911 who barrels by at 95 with a + detector. + + Picking combo locks: + + Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text +file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help +you. + First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock +is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on +the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. + To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired +combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the +lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock +without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps +when ya don't know the combination to begin with). + First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just +ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold +something together... If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip, + go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. + Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side +and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight +side. The curved part t can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file +down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many +hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick +various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But +most are not. + Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how +ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you +can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side +it opens from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of +the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. + Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the +crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the +pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't +say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of beer money +from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. + Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a +Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone +does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very +tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable +up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure +there aren't that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting +a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using +force, making a substitute key, etc... + If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for picking +an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at +/\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on picking +combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks". +See ya later, The Byte basher. + + How to pick MASTER locks By Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC + + Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master +combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has +made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it +hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on +to it. + + 1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on. +1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination), +pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on +it turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this +number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number. + + 2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times, +then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the +1st number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and +turning it. It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the +groove pull on it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if +it's stiff you got the second number. + + 3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 +numbers, then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on +it. The lock will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the +first time, be patient, it takes time. + +Addendum 4/12/91: I've tried this, and it no longer seems to work (master +wised up) + +HOWEVER- the "MASTER warded padlock" locks are easily picked... + +These are the lock with the keys that look like this: + + _ _ + / \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \ + \_/ [] [] [] [] + +Just file the key down so it looks like this: + + _ _ + / \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~ + \_/ [] + +Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and +down, turning as you pass each block, to release the latch. + + +*End Addendum + + + PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS + WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER + + Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers, +principals and other people who are justassholes. depending on your level of +hatred of this person i would advise that you do some of these following +experiments: + + (1) Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already +know that gasoline + dishsoap(e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture +called napalm. now napalm is a jelly-like substance used in bombs, +flamethrowers, etc. now you can only guess what this mixture would do to +someone's fuel line!!!! + + (2) Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe- when +the exhaust pipe heats up(and it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe +will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car. +Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!! + + (3) Light Bulb Bomb- see part one of the file + + (4) Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under +the name flowers of sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very +strong odor and plenty of smoke. now all you need is a fuse from a +firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack very +lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into +the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value +your lungs. you can find many uses for this( or at least i hope so. + + FUN WITH ALARMS + +A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can also +use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. you can purchase +this at any hardware store as insulation. it is easier to handle and dries +faster. + +Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. this alarm is a small +device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his +body capacitance sets off the alarm. these nasty nuisences can be found by +walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly. +if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal +object to the knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think +someone is breaking in and call room service for help. all sorts of fun and +games will ensue. + + + Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a +registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most +use three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from +all fingerprints. after it had been used just apply finger print dust and all +four digits will be marked. now all you have to do is figure out the order. +if you want to have some fun with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the +same time. many units use this as a panic button. This will bring the owner +and the cops running and ever-one will have a good time. never try to remove +them from the wall, as they all have tamper switches. + + On the subject of holdups, most places (including super-markets, liquer +stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip. these little nasties are +placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are +with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that's why when you make +your withdrawl it's best to help your-self so you can check for these little +nasties. if you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of +twenties, and then pull out the twen-ties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind +to prevent the circuit from closing. + +If you shoplift and see cameras, look at the brand. if it is surveillance video +systems (SVS) you need not worry. these cameras look realistic to the point of +pilot lights, coax, and scanning. however, they are only empty boxes. + + +How to make TNT By THE SCREAMER + + Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT +(trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high explosives ar +all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25 +millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability. TNT also has the +great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be +poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in +containers which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually ingnited by an +electrical charge, coupled with an electical blasting cap, although there are +other methods. + +Preparation of TNT + +1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric +acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, +prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric +acid (percentages are on a weig ht ratio rather than volume). + +2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed +in an ice bath. + +3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. +4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 +degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. + +5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and +the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will +begin to form on the top of the acid. + +6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and +cooled to 45 degrees C. when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will +sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining +acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe. + +7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid +while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this +temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour. + +8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees +C>, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, +the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the +bottom. + +9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently +heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished +slowly and gently. + +10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid +solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104 +degrees C., and is held for three hours. + +11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and +held there for a half hour. + +12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with +boiling water. + +13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the +TNT will begin to solidify. + + 14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so +that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good +quality TNT. NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, +and must be used as such. + + DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer. +The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for +this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY. + + SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: + + THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON + + This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. the bottom of a +soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or other +explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is +then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. + + ! ! After first making sure there are no + ! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine + ! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put into the straw and the can is set + ---- ---- down by a tree or wall where it will not + ! !1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give + ! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will then + !* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby. + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER + ! ! !% ! + ! ==== ! + ! ! + ! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone would + ! --- ! pick up and drink from someone else's + ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft drink can. but if such a crude + ! / ! person should try to drink from your + ! ! bomb he would break a nasty habit + --------- fast! + + El Pirata's Guild On How To Make A Chemical Fire Bottle + Written for: Toxic Oyster Guild 05/12/85 + +Materials Required: +================== + + Sulphuric Acid (Battery Acid) Gasoline + Potassium Chlorate (Drug Store) Sugar + Glass bottle w/stopper (roughly 1 quart size) Small bottle or jar w/lid + Rag or absorbent paper(newspaper,towels, etc.) + String or rubber bands + +Procedure: +========= + +1) Sulphuric Acid Must be Concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid +is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off. +Container used should be of eenamelware or oven glass. + +CAUTION: Sulphuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is + spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also + dangerous and should not be inhaled. + +2) Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temerature. + +3) Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately +2/3 full. + +4) Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is +filled to within 1' to 2' from top. Place the stopper on the bottle. + +5) Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water. + +CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle + during use. + +6) Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside + of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands. + +7) Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 gm) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 gm) of +sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling water. + +8) Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly. The +cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is +more liquid than this, pour off excess before using. + +CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle. + + + How To Use: + +1) Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper +around the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution has dried. +However, when dry, the sugar - Potassium chlorate mixture is very sensitive to +spark or flame and should be handled accordingly. + +2) Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface + (target) the fuel will ignite. + +Conclusion: +========== + This weapon proves to be very useful in torching Assholes and/or their +possessions. Use your imagination. + El Pirata (c) 1985 TOG ENTERPRISES + + + Pyro Book ][ by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf + +TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE + +1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can. +2) add glycerine +3) wait 3-4 min. +4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame.. + +** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple] +** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy... +** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts] + + + + THERMITE + +This stuff can burn *anything*. [except Tungsten].. It's great for burning +open a fortress fone [a pay phone, for those who do not know] + +Here is the step-by-step on how to make it. + +1) First you need rust. The best way to make alot of it is.... + + a) get an electric train transformer and attach a common nail to the PLUS + (+) end of the transformer. take a glass jar and fill it with water, then + put salt [table salt is fine] into the water. put the other wire into the + water with the nail [leave the transformer out, of course]. Turn on the + transformer and let the contraption run overnight. seperate out all the red + shit [that's the rust] with a filter or a spoon. let the stuff dry [like on + a paper towel] that's it! you have rust! + +2) Get some aluminum filings from the hardware store [or shave your own from a + bar with less that 94% pure aluminum, called duralumin] + +3) Now, just mix: + + 8 grams rust / 3 grams aluminum filings + +4) That's Thermite!! Now, to ignite it... + +5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon. To get it, you can: + + a) steal it from the chemistry lab at school + b) buy it at the hardware store or from a chemical supply house. + +6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon into the Thermite at a fuse. + +7) Then light it with a blowtorch. [It won't get hot enough to ignite the + Thermite, though] + +8) last step: get the hell back. [it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!] + + + +EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER + +INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the +attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would +like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how +to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does +it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the +resourses and materials available to you. + + Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because +they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is +going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials +that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you +need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting +point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a +small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a +firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is +easy. + + The king of explosives for the do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It is +easy to make and when properly confined is capable of devestating power. + It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name +Flowers of Sulfur. If you use Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the form of +prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15 +minutes to drive out the moisture. + Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a +beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a +grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with hammer. Dump the +result into the blender, grind, then strain through a tea strainer. + Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2 parts powdered +charcoal, 1 part sulfur. This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if +ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved, however, by +processing it as follows: + Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between thumb +and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated +oven at 250 degrees for about 30 minutes--get it totally dry. Grind into as +fine a powder as possible. A mortar and pestle is best. + If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is +not very sensative to friction or impact, but is very sensative to sparks. If +you followed these directions, you should have a fine slate-grey powder. + When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven. Place your pie +pan approximately in the center of the oven. Do not set it on the bottom of +the oven. + + These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powder causing +a fire or explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-law was +doing this and it blew the door right off the oven. His training in military +demolitions included field expedient explosives. The point is that things can +go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself at all +times. Use common sense. Wear safety glasses; don't stand in front of oven, +etc. + + HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: + Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work +with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die +for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the +right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. + + To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 +teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use +cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together +until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn +through very easily. + + Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and +hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a +circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with +the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. +Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through +smoothly in one long motion. + + To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 +degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse +must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. +Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even +dry completely at room temperatures. + +Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight +container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use +a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled +out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be +extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. + + HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK + Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at +a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can +test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is +removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some +sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at +250 degrees. + It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning +brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The +melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up +to cool and harden. + It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. +These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a +moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are +great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. +Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing +unpredictable burning times. + + + Now you have the basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In +the next installment or two, I will tell you how to put it all together to do +just that. You will find that you have baked a very deadly pie. I have twice +been accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive power of +your little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing +ground with care. + + + HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB + Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both +ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware +stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a +good drill bit. + Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. +Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack +the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want +the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder +sitting loose in a very rigid container. + Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe. +Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of +tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two +inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the +bomb behind a large rock or tree. + Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to +the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might +cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that +keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover +at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a +small object. + Be extra cautious until You have done this a time or two and it gets real +what you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly +through the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you. +This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of +the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and caps. + + To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill +a 1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 +rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the +powder. Toilet paper or kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a +safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder +so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous. +You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against something. + + The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe +pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can +will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this. + + + + HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL + + This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume +Potassium or So dium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of +this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step +back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest +a lot of experiments for this. + + ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL + + Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you +experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful +explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast +burning rate. + + --- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be +harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. +I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been +instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in +certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, +Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be +notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you +need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out +something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I +am guessing you would prefer it that way. + + HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES + + The word "safety" in safety matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads +of safety matches is a powerful explosive. It is similar to black powder but +has a lower ignition temperature (more sensative to heat) and unlike black +powder is easily detonated by impact. + + This feature moves it up into the high explosives class. To test this, lay a +paper safety match on a hard flat surface and hit the head sharply with a +hammer. What do you know! It goes bang! To collect a quantity of this +explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy several cartons. +They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches, not the strike +anywhere kind. + + + Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; +then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets +easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for +a bomb without dying of boredom. + Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of +black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that +gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A +science teacher was killed that way. + Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you +can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your +thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly +against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 +feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat +to light the match. + + Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper +match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. +Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, +the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. + + I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are +made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws +off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff +wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of +wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. +It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets +hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. + +--- For later projects, like a chemical time delay fuse, you will need some +concentrated sulfuric acid. So, I better tell you how to make it. + + + HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID + + Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should +only cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a +gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant +glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. + + Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out +doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white +fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now +concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass +stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the +acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to +know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? +Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment. + + HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE: + + To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts +by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the +mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a +spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid +in the depression and step back. + It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. +To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a +small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the +clorate/sugar mixture. + Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos +fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric +acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite +the mixture. + The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying +how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react +with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the +side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and +used to set off the device of your choice. + + Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can +be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them +extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. +But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have +decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but +for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. + + + HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE + + Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it +down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case +of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb +with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will +heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. + + ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE + + Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it +to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and +then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want +about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good +size wire to use. + Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. +Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. +place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the +powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. + The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else +except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the +powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under +on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. + The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. +A single flashlight battery will set this off. + + ELECTRIC FUSE # 3 + + An excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy +stores. They are sold for setting off model rockets. + + MORE SPONTANIOUS COMBUSTION + + Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so +they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting +supply. + + METHOD # 1 + Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl +alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately. + METHOD # 2 + Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four +parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on +top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from +this. + METHOD # 3 + Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two +drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into flames. + + + METHOD # 4 + Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium +peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right. +One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare. + METHOD # 5 + Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated +nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. +When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame. + + HOW TO MAKE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE + + Here are some notes I took four years ago on how to make this wild explosive +that can be detonated by a fly walking on it. + + Five grams iodine, three grams potassium iodide, 20 ml. concentrated +ammonium hydroxide, filter paper, funnel. + + Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of +water. Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate +forms. + Filter and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. +Break the filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several +hours. On drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode +violently with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do +not let any sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. +--- I was able to buy concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic +supply. + +I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES. + + A. GUNPOWDER: + 75% POTASSIUM NITRATE + 15% CHARCOAL + 10% SULFUR + + The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (seperately!) with a mo +rter & pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if +in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can +explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: the potassium nitrate +oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. carbon dioxide +and sulfur dioxide are the gases released. + + B. AMMONAL: + Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum +powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the % composition for +ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts. + + + C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES: + + 1. using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very well + for imitating volcanic eruptions. i have given it the name 'mpg volcanite' + +Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + am +monium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoa +l + zinc dust + some coloring agent. + (scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow= sodium + chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc...). + + PEROXYACETONE + + PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK + SENSITIVE. + +MATERIALS- + 4ML ACETONE + 4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE + 4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID + 150MM TEST TUBE + +Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops +concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to +appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 +celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and +filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To +ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at +least a meter away) . + + B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE... + + The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this + reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary + + 6 pt. ZINC POWDER + 1 pt. SULFUR POWDER + Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. + + There are many other experiments I could have included, but i will save them +for the next chemist's corner article. upcoming articles will include +glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things you can do with +household chemicals , etc... + +I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical +demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some +experiments. + ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! + + +THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG + + This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting +experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work +depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and +brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some +knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. + + I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this +information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who +are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. + +I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION + +VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE +DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE +AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID +TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE +MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE +RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!) + + GENERATING CHLORINE GAS + + This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you +shouild know what you're doing before you try this... + + Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach', +and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something +like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and +put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since +the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use +large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!). for something fun to do +with chlorine STAY TUNED.... + + CHLORINE + TURPENTINE + + Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the +bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start +burning... + GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS + + To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react +with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, +etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter +than air.... l ight a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*. + + + Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this +involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric +current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two +test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking +6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of +water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside +them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some +wire going down to the electrodes. + This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the +oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon +electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the +chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to +form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some +sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than +making the water conduct electricity. + +Addendum 4/12/91: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! + Not only is AC inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces equal + amount of Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode. + + HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE + + Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it +inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted +with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The +hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity +and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not +react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is +turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react... + + PREPARATION OF OXYGEN + Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from +a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off +oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. + Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the +bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things +to burn better... + + IODINE + Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To +seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat +it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the +tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol +should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine +crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't +tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen +triiodide. + ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! + +CHLOROX-DRAINO By The Mortician Sysop of: The Morgue (201)376-4462 + + I am not too sure on how this works but I am pretty sure that you can make a +really powerful bomb by taking a can of draino and mixing it with Chlorox. I +think that these two compounds will spontaniously explode so don't just pour +them together. + + I think what you do is get the draino in a cardboard can and then put it +in a bucket of chlorox and what will happen is either the draino or chlorox +will eat through the cardboard and they will meet and explode. + + You might want to experiment with this by rigging it up so you can cause +the two to combine while you stand a distance a way. I reccomend extreme +caution with this and wear goggles.... + + Just like pour some chlorox into a pan and then have a can of draino with a +string tied to it so you can make it spill into the chlorox... Be Careful. I +don't need a law suit... If you find anything out call The Morgue and leave me +feedback and/or get me in chat and I will update this file with credit to +you.... + +Addendum 4/12/91: All this reaction does is produce heat and gas. + + I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react +to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with +rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and +possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches) + +If you have any more info, send me mail: KADOKEV@IITVAX (Bitnet) + kadokev@iitvax.iit.edu + +I'd especially appreciate chemical formulas, or other interesting combinations +(also a source for the pure chemicals in the tablets and in household ammonia) + +*End Addendum + + + HOW TO MAKE DRUGS ! + +IN NO WAY AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSE OF +THESE DRUGS. YOU SHOULD TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL. USE THEM ONLY AS AN +ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN ESCAPE. + + THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES. ALL SHOULD +WORK IF MADE PROPERLY. + + BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!) + +BANANAS DO CONTAIN A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC DRUG. +THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THAT +BANANAS ARE LEGAL (FOR NOW) + +1] OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS + +2] PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS. + +3] WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE THE +SCRAPED MATERIAL. + +4] PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER. BOIL FOR THREE +TO FOUR HOURS UNTIL IT HAS ATTAINED A SOLID PASTE. + +5] SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN. TO A +HALF AN HOUR. THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK POWDER ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE +ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES + + PEANUTS! +1] OBTAIN A POUND OF PEANUTS. +2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS. +3] PORK OUT ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING David Letterman ONE NIGHT. +4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE THEM. + + Any fool can grow their own marijuana.... just plant the seeds in a warm, +sunny and not too public place, water and fertilize as you would any other +plant, and in a short while you'll have your own homegrown weed. I've heard +that you can kill mites by soaking some tobacco (buy a pack of plain pipe +tobacco) in water, and spraying it on the leaves (you don't want to use toxic +chemicals on something you're going to smoke later) + + If you're not used to the stuff, cut it with 50% tobacco, and smoke it in +a filtered pipe or use the mixture to refill a cigarette- the tar content is +MUCH higher than that of a regular cigarrette. + + Remember, cultivation is a FEDERAL crime, so if you can do it at home, +just pick a room with no windows, and put in some grow lights (sodium vapor +lamps are reputed to be the best- steal a couple streetlights) and a water +spigot. + + TRIPWIRES by The Mortician + + Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about +landmines... If you can't then here is the concept. + + You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that +will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt +battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can +create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this. + + ------------------>+ batery + steel || ->- batery + wool || / + :==:--- <--fuse \ + || / + ---- spst switch--\ + + So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or +igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light. + Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of +wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the +explosive. + + Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury +it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie +one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a +loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that +when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive. + + To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and +find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques... +On my board... (201)376-4462 + +Addendum 4/12/91: + I would suggest you try the clothespin trick, it works much better. + + + BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame) + + Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, +and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby +trap. + + There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise +remains the same. What you'll need is 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft +enough to bend easily (galvanized iron works well), some wire or fishing line, +some string or rope, and a really sick mind. + + Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so +they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30 +degrees. + + Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your +nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or +string so it comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string so the +loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail between the +two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others (see diagrams) + + bent nails + / || ^ slight upward tension +# /\ || +#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on) +# ------!----()------ +# trip wire + \ / +Trunk third nail + + Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the +other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a +stump etc). + + When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your +sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing +pin). There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be +attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip +wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two +bent nails. + + A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a +hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is +attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring. + || +*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------* + SPRING BOLT Trip wire + + With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if +it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled. + + RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE + +INGREDIENTS: + +GASOLINE - 1 PART OIL - 1 HALF PART STYROFOAM - 1 PART + +1) MELT STYROFOAM. -REMEMBER NEVER AT ANY TIME LET THE MIXTURE GET TOO HOT. + +Addendum 4/12/91 + Acetone will dissolve the styrofoam, and requires no heat- this is an + ingredient in nail polish remover, or it is available at any good automotive + supply store in the paint section. + + A nice trick is to walk into a store, grab a bottle of nail polish remover + (check the ingredients, it should have acetone in it) then "accidentally" + pour it into a large stack of (uncoated) styrofoam coolers and wander off. +*End Addendum + +2) LET COOL TO A THICK VISCOSITY. + +3) MIX 3 INGREDIENTS TOGETHER IN FOLLOWING ORDER: FIRST ADD STYROFOAM, THEN + OIL, THEN GAS. + +4) MIX IN A DEEP POT - KEEP MIXTURE AWAY FROM ANY TYPE OF FIRE! DO THIS STEP + WITH EXTREME CAUTION. + +5) LET THE MIXTURE COOL TO A LITTLE BIT WARMER THAN ROOM TEMPERATURE - AROUND + 88 DEGREES FARENHEIT. + +6) MOLD THE MIXTURE HOW YOU WANT. (DIFFERENT SHAPES WILL MAKE IT MORE OR LESS + LETHAL). + +OPTIONAL: YOU CAN ADD NUTS, BOLTS, AND SCREWS WHILE MIXING, ALONG WITH +GUNPOWDER, 2 M-80'S, OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF EXPLOSIVE TO MAKE IT THE EQUIVILANT +OF A MOLOTOV COCKTAIL. + +NOTE: THE FRAGMENTS (NUTS, BOLT, ETC.) ARE DEADLY. THEY WILL PENETRATE A +BRICK WALL WHEN THE MIXTURE IS DETONATED. + + DETONATION + +1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE THROWN, BUT SOMETIMES DETONATION DOES NOT OCCUR. + +2) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH IT, IT + WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT. A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH IT ALSO. IF + THIS METHOD IS USED, SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED. + +Addendum 4/12/91: This just burns and smokes, WILL NEVER explode.. don't bother! + + + Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high- explosive. I am +not sure who invented it but he probably didn't-- the first person to make it +probably blew himself up and his friend got the info off his notes. + +Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to +make but also ten times safer to make. If you can't use common sense then +dont even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can blow off your hand in the +right circumstances. + +To make Nitro: + Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a +specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid. + + This is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric +INTO the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions +together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures +for God's sake!!! + + When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down +the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix thourily and the +reaction could go to fast--which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff. + + Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20 +times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there +will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate. +Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated it-- this helps it not +to go off spontainiously. + +Addendum 4/12/91: Do NOT let the temperature get above 32 degrees centigrade!!! + +NOTES: Parts are by weight and he Baume' scale of spicific gravity can be +found in most chem. books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric acids +wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. + + It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. +When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff +I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too much glycerine at a +time.) + I was across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table +it was on as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only +25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and +you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if +you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it gets +old I wouldn't play catch with it. + +Addendum 4/12/91: Freezing it will make it less sensitive to shock. + + Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can make a +really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing it with +as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten (but as cool as +possible, of course) parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard. +Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and +paraffin. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin & +Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896. + + Improvised Explosives +Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich + + This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive +exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C + Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It +needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by +treating it with calcium chlor- ide until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. +C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. + This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking +with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper +reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium +chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that +it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that +the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that +the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene +glycol. + It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. +Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the +chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this +explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good +idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final +explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine: + +Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5% + + In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with +the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to +shock as is nitroglycerin. + The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix +these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This +kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when +the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use +this explosive as soon as possible. + If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This +explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very +powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent. + These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the +manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and +ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use +them. + Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with +an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been +made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very +few mis haps. + Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the +stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of +nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an +anvil. + Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I +mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any +doubts DON'T. + +Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich + + This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive compounds +made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and +absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its +use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney +failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. + + This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. +It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an +artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar +but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in +approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). + + This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric +acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified +aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the +final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be +taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric +acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin +and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. +They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. + + To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but +buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine +consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this +powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will +dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that +was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount +than the first extrac- tion. Again filter the remaining powder out of the +alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex +dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of +crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. + + Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and +dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat +to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric +frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good +cooking oil. + +When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, +that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This +next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a +good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any +procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding +58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture in +the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas +(nitrogen tri- oxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. + + + + The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until +the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the +beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is +allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped +slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow +crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in +200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then +the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, +very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and +places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. +This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. + + The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder +consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax +and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the +crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. +This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The +detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but +simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work +requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for +shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive +as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again +this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. + + AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF +INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE +RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. +THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH +ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE +UP AS NEEDED. + + +Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich + + This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explo- +sives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main explosive +filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and other +forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to +manufacture. + + One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, +sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures +that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively +while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as +just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is +not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and +cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and +yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives +are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. + + To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite +solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large +pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium +chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in +the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 +g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this +solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading +is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). + + When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator +until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals +that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on +the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have +formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. + + Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and +mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml. +distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. +Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process +if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should +be relatively pure potassium chlorate. + + Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to +drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax. +Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on +90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a +plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately +mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, +dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. + + + This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.) +and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges guarantee the +highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in +shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It +is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the +sake of charge computation. + + If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the +manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the +wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The +addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation +velocity is 3300 m/sec.. + + +Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Clorinating Compound By the Lich + + This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of +production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure +product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. + + In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water +and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium +chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice +due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate. + + This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the +ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or +equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process +mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation +reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. +H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough +boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky +substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this +chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling +hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed. + + This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left +after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution +reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear +filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water +evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. + + These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to +drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to a +very fine powder (400 mesh). + + If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization is +much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the +resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The +powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with +vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO +FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in +this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower +detonation velocity. + + + This explosive is composed of the following: + + potassium/sodium chlorate 90% + vaseline 10% + + Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline +carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is +used) should not be exposed to water or moisture. + + The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of +2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this +aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will +ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this +explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. +for the sodium salt based explosive. + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume +that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and +that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline. + + Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even By George Hayduke + + subtitled: Fun Things To Do Written by The Ghost + SPEED DEMON 415/522-3074 24 HOURS + + This is from a book by George Hayduke. It describes a variety of ways to +get back at people who cause you distress. The book has contains a lot of +tips on causing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones. +Ones that don't cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you +enjoy. Get back at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and +phreaking. + + In a car with automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on the +distributer cap. This will allegedly allow the car to operate in Neutral and +Park, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive. + Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount of +smoke. Just the thing to help nervous drivers. + If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly wonderful things +can happen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very pissed. +It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you. +OR anybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty +hunters just waiting to claim their reward. + + Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must be +physically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits. This is for +anybody who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour before the +normal opening hour. For example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the time +to be 8:30. All these faggots will show up and start bitching at each other +and your loser. + Run an ad in the local paper with the following message. +"I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and I'll pay +$5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $ +and print the ad without thinking. + If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange for him to find out +that somebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then call +the cops telling them of a real rowdy party going on. + If your college uses computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out +course withdrawl forms in the losers name. Then enter them, they probably +won't check. The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then when grades are +posted. "Where are mine?" "Why didn't I get grades?" + + Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your +losers hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records will +follow. Then call the parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This +will work better if the guy decides to skip a week or so of classes. + Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell them that +you just lost your cards. You name? Why it's (insert loser) + If you want, advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For +bigots, Dial A Black, etc. + + + If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order +everything you can think of. Then just don't go to the window. Do it during +dinner hours. Or, order a normal sized meal, but with extra helpings of +mustard. Then the next car will try the food, then freak out at the joint. + Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to other +combinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit. +Say you broke yours or something. Then change the settings. + + Wax crayons tossed into a wash do wonders to whites or anything else. + + There is a whole section of phun things to do with a phone. Call in a bomb +threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook. Of course, +do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit. + Ads placed in papers saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans +to a device enabling inexpensive calls. Mention that you keep no records. If +you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line system, this is good. + If you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset is +modular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, then +its unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?" + Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges of a front door of a +business. The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People start +screaming. + Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their fence. +Then, at night, it glows. + Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the insulator of a +spark plug in a car. They'll never find it. + If your loser gets a parking ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a +stamp flicking the cops off. Send it in with no money. + If you dislike a pet hater, here's one. Advertise that you(the loser) +would like to buy all unwanted strays. $10 for each one. Then call the SPCA, +telling them that the loser wants the animals to conduct black masses and +pagan rites. + Laxatives slipped into dogfood does wonders. + + Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard. Then call +him up(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hanging +around the yard.... + Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you would +like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor. + PA systems in department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit, +look around, then deliver the most disgusting statement you can think of. + Call about thirty people, telling them they just won a sweepstakes. Answer +the questions, no obligation, it's just to show how generous people are. Then +give the losers phone number to call for more info. + Remember two things, hot metal and hot glass do not look different from +cool. (as long as it's not too hot) + Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key +words trip alarms. Guns, Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun + + + There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under 2 +topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long as +your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers. + + + Sweet-Gas + This involves taking the gas cap off of you victims car. If it is a locking +cap break it off. Or you might pry it off. Once you have the gas cap off +pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now when the start there +car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so then the car will crap +out and they will have to pay some $'s to get it fixed. + +Addendum 4/12/91: This does NOT work- try confectioner's sugar, it might. + + Sweet-Oil + In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. if +you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil +out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure +that I did some damage. + + Slow Air + Ok, sneak up the victums car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her +tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there +tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is +blows out on the road wih a rasor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't +cut a hole) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and cut that off. Now +very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out at a high speed if +your lucky. + + Vanishing Paint + Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his +paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. +Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough. + + + Loose Wheel + Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off. This +can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off. + + No name for this one. but where you pour oil into the engine, pour some +sand, this will scar the head and pushrodes and possible scrach the fuck out +of the cylinder. + + Dual Neutral + This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On +the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts +and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could +chip some of the teeth off the gears. + + Un-Midaser + Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust +so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on +transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you +work the more you fuck them over. + + +A quickie bomb, stolen from MacGyver +------------------------------------ + Typed, Uploaded, and Translated by + (_> Shadow Hawk 1 <_) +\__________________________________/ + +Ok. Heres a really simple bomb that you can make from things you've probably +got lying around the house... What you ne eed: + +A bag of fertilizer +Some Cotton +Some Starter Fluid (etherous kind) +Some Newspaper + +Ok... You fold the newspaper until its in sort of a pocket shape, then fill +it up with fertilizer (not too much).. Next, you put cotton on top of the +fertilizer. Then, pour some starter fluid on it (the fertilizer), wrap up +the newspaper (you can use tape). Now this isnt the kind of bomb you leave +lying around for a couple days, as it drys out. When you want to use it, just +light the edge of the newspaper and throw it. Pretty simple, eh? + +Addendum 4/12/91: This is stupid. Starting fluid is DANGEROUS stuff. +Try it if you like, but I recommend a better detonation technique than +burning newspaper... Maybe a spark plug? + + + P.S. I never noticed before, but all the formulas, etc. that the dude on +macgyver uses are real, (i checked quite a few of em). (c) 1986 The J-Men + + +How To Make Mercury Fulminate by The Lockpic & The Blitz + +When employing the use of any high explosive,an individual must also use some +kind of detonating device.Blasting caps are probably the most popular +today,since they are very functional and relativly stable.The prime ingrediant +in most blasting caps and detonating devices in general is mercury +fulminate.There are several methods for preparing mercury fulminate. + +1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix is with 35 ml. of nitric acid. + +2.The mixture is slowly and gentle heated.As soon as the solution bubbles and +turns green, one knows that the silver mercury is dissolved. + +3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured,slowly,into a small +flask of ethyl alcohol.This will result in red fumes. + +4. After a half hour or so,the red fumes will turn white, indicating that the +process is nearing its final stage. + +5. after a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution. + +6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white +crystals.These crystals are pure mercury fulminate,but should be washed many +times, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining undersiable acid. + + Method No. 2 + +1. Mix one part mercuric oxide with ten parts ammonia solution.When ratios +are described,they are always done according to weight rather than volume. + +2. After waiting eight to ten days,one will see that the mercuric oxide has +reacted with the ammonia solution to produce the white fulminate crystals. + +3. These crystals must be handled in the same way as the first method +described, in that they must be washed many times and given several litmus +paper tests. + + +Many other fulminates can be made, however most are extremely unstable and +sensitive to shock.All fulminates including mercury fulminate,are sensitive to +shock and friction,and in no circumstances should they be handled in a rough +or careless manner.. + +Call these Commodore X-changes + +The headquarters (817)430-8239 +T.A.R.G.E.T. (817)295-9228 +Pirates Exchange (214)446-2219 +(C) Hang Ten '86 + + +How to Make Ammonium Nitrate from THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND by: Kurt Saxon +TYPED BY THE REFLEX + +Disclaimer: + I, THE REFLEX, will accept full responsibility for any damage caused by +information obtained from this text-file. As a matter of fact, I'll let you +sue me and I'll pay. All you have to do is tell your lawyer, "It's all THE +REFLEX's fault." I'll see you when you get out of the institution. + + Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This can +be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer. + Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It is +roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro. + + The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of +one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated +with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to find +another file about that crap.]. + + Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap. +The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade +can be purified with distilled wood alcohol. + + Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in +enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until a +lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the +impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium +nitrate. + + Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry ice +can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Locker +companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts. + + The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done +carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate behind. + + The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the +solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed from +the alcohol. + + The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve +any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes the +solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When +the last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused. + + The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless +unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with your +bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold +will cause blisters. + + In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it +must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp or in thte sun. When +completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags. + + + You got here on just the right day! For a limited time only, we will be +offering this *BONUS* file to you free with the above file. That's right! Two +files for the price of one! And only from Omnipotent! + + So you don't know what to do with your ammonium nitrate once you've made it. +You're saying to yourself, "Great! Now I have a chemical that is supposed to +blow things up, but I don't want to destroy anything [ahem?]." Well... + + LAUGHING GAS + As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammonium nitrate +has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how to make +laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. + Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of +inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't +keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. + Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is +because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were +inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. + The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of +the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag +under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! + To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply +house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. + + First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you +evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy +brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when +a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. + + When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break +it up and store it in a bottle. + + A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading +into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. + + When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If +white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. + + When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. + +Addendum 4/12/91: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize +it. It's easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing +reflex doesn't know it. SO: Do not put your head in a plastic bag (duhh...) +because you will cheerfully choke to death. + + + +BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE TEXT BY, EL PIRATA' + +IF YA WANT TO MAKE SOME LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE RIGHT CHOICE! +FIRST OF ALL, THIS RECIPE WILL SHOW HOW TO MAKE BLACK POWDER IN A SIMPLE AND +SAFE MANNER YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME STRONG LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS. +NOTE: THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD TWO POUNDS (THAT'S 900 GRAMS FOR YOU METRIC +USERS) OF BLACK POWDER. HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE AMOUNTS OF INGREDIENTS +ARE IMPORTANT. THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL QUANTITIES +USED. + + MATERIAL REQUIRED +large wooden stick cloth, 2 ft. sq. +flat window screening, 1 ft. sq. heat source +water, 3 cups alcohol, 5 pints (any kind) +sulfer, powdered, 1/2 cup (flowers wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups +of sulfer, at a drug store) potassium nitrate, granulatd, 3 cups +2 buckets, both 2 gallon, one must (saltpeter, at drug stores) +be heat resistant + +PROCEDURE: +1. PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE BUCKETS. + +2. PLACE POTASSIUM NITRATE, CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT RESISTANT +BUCKET. ADD 1 CUP WATER AND MIX THOROUGHLY WITH WOODEN STICK UNTIL ALL +INGREDIENTS ARE DISSOLVED. + +3. ADD REMAINING WATER (2 CUPS) TO MIXTURE. PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT SOURCE AND +STIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES BEGIN TO FORM. + +CAUTION: DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE. BE SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET. IF ANY IS DRY, +AS ON SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY IGNITE. + +4. REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL WHILE STIRRING +VIGOROUSLY. + +5. LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 5 MINUTES. STRAIN MIXTURE THROUGH CLOTH +TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER. DISCARD LIQUID. WRAP CLOTH AROUND BLACK POWDER AND +SQUEEZE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS LIQUID. + +6. PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET. PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP POWDER ON + SCREEN AND GRANULATE BY RUBBING SOLID THROUGH SCREEN. + +NOTE: IF GRANULATED PARTICLES APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE SHAPE, +RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6. + +7. SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK POWDER ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYER ABOUT 1/2 +INCH IS FORMED. ALLOW TO DRY. USE RADIATOR, OR DIRECT SUNLIGHT. THIS SHOULD +BE DRIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONE HOUR. THE LONGER THE DRYING +PERIOD, THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER. + +CAUTION: REMOVE FROM HEAT AS SOON AS GRANULES ARE DRY. BLACK POWDER IS NOW +READY FOR USE! + + EXPEDIENT GRENADES The Cheshire Cat + + There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture, but for +the most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must be constructed of +easily available materials, the quality and the safety of the grenade is +reduced dramatically. + + Here I will deal with this problem, trying to produce a reasonable type of +grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored and transported easily, but +produces dramatic effects. I strongly suggest that if you find it possible, +you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than trying to produce one +yourself, but you can be the judge. As always, I want to note that this is +all for educational purposes only, and I do not recommend anyone trying any +of the following for real. + + The first thing you need is explosives. If you can't get black powder, or +gun powder, or make your own plastic explosives (we know there sure are +enough text files floating around to explain how to make all of the above!) +than you're really in a for making a grenade of this type. + + You'll also need a coffee can, a smaller sized can (probably like an orange +juice can, or V8), a coat hanger, and a fuse. As for explosives, mercury +fulminate is extremely good for this sort of thing. + + You could probably get together a ton of firecrackers and take out the black +powder (if you're desperate) or get a couple quarter sticks from someone. +The explosive goes in the juice can. Don't pack it together too tight. +Loose black powder is better than compressed. This is the main explosive. + + Cut up the coat hanger into little pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill +up the coffee can until you can put the juice can in and the top of the juice +can is level with the top of the coffee can. If you don't have the time, and +need to fill up the space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of +glass, and stuff like that until you have the bottom of the can filled. + + Now place the juice can in the coffee can, and center it. Then fill the +space around the coffee can with coat hanger stuff until the juice can is +relatively stable. Put a model rocket fuse in the explosive in the juice +can. Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from. If necessary, secure the juice +can or the explosive with some masking tape, ect... as long as it doesn't +interfere with the action of the grenade. + + Take the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so that the fuse is exposed. +You now have a fragmentation grenade. It might be a good idea to practice +with a football for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor's garage +with it. + + try OSB systems (215)-395-1291 an awesome AE/BBS. Later, The Cheshire Cat + + + How to Counterfeit Written by The Wave + + This article deals with how to make counterfeit money. Before reading this +article it would be a very good idea to get a book about photo-offset +printing, for that's how you'll have to print it. For someone who is familiar +with offset printing, printing money is a breeze. Real money is made by a +process called gravure. It involves carving out of a metal block (but I don't +think anyone can do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That's +Incredible!). When you are done (if you did everything correctly) you will +have a finished product nearly identical to real money, depending on your +printing skills. Well, let's get started! + + First I'd like to tell you briefly how offset printing works. It starts by +making negatives (kind of like when you take a picture with your camera). +Then you take the negatives and put them on a piece of masking material ( +usually orange). Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a +lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The BURNED plates are then +developed with the proper developer chemical. These plates (one at a time of +course) are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use +should be an 11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the 11 by 17 AB Dick 360. Then +the printing begins! To learn in detail how to do each of these steps you +should again get a book on the subject. The presswork takes some practice, +but you'll get the hang of it. + + BTW you can +pick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500 if you shop around (or you can ** +BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00 in the morning!). +First, like I said before, you need negatives. Make 2 negatives of the +portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing them and +letting them dry, take them to a light table. Get some opaque and, on one of +the portrait sides, touch out all the green (the seal and the serial numbers). +Line that one up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2 inch from the top of the +flat. Then for the other portrait, touch out everything BUT the seal and +serial numbers. The back side doesn't require any retouching because it is +all one color. + + Now, make sure all the negatives are lined up right, or REGISTERED, on the +flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, just shoot 1 +neg. of the portrait side and cut out the serial number. Cut out the old +serial number from the flat and replace it with the new one. Ok, now you have +3 flats, each represents a different color-black and 2 shades of green (which +of course are made by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. +Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it. These marks must be 2 & +9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges. + + Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then take 1 of the flats and place it +on the plate, lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate-EXACTLY! +Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you +already burned. Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times-moving the flat +up one mark. Then do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a +separate plate). Develope all 3 plates. You should have 4 images on each +plate with an equal space between each bill. + + + Roll the Presses! + + The paper you will need won't match exactly, but you can make it pretty damn +close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!). The paper to use should have +a 25% rag content. I have found that Disaperf computer paper works great - +that's the kind that you can barely see the perforation. Take this paper (cut +the pinfeed holes off first!) and load it into the press. Be sure to set the +air, buckle, and paper thickness right. + + Start with the black plate (the one with out the serial numbers). Wrap it +around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you +need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that's printing, mix +the inks for the serial #'s and the back side. You'll need to add some white +and maybe yellow to the serial # ink. You need to add black to back side. +Experiment till you get it right. Clean the press and print the other side. +Now you have the bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with +one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as +many different numbers as you want. + + Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter Now you have a lot +of money, except there is still one problemo - the paper is pure white. To +dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4 tea bags, and about +16-20 drops of green food coloring (experiment). Dip one of The bills in and +compare it to a brand new REAL bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye +all the bills. Then it is a good idea to make them look used. Wrinkle them, +rub coffee grinds on them, etc. Congratulations! You're rich! + + Some of the info was taken from The Poor Man's James Bond, but most from +personal knowledge. Also, it would be a good idea to see the movie To Live +and Die in L.A. It is about a counterfeiter and they did a good job of +showing how to do it. Well, that's all folks! + +Call the Shadowkeep AE (513) 832-1938 AE:TAC + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + I have heard that there are several methods of detecting CONTERFEIT +money. First, most green ink flouresces under UV light. Second, some money +verifiers sold use MAGNETIC ink and INFRARED detection to tell if the money +is real. + + I do NOT know what the pattern used is, if anybody does, send E-mail. + + + HOMEMADE GUNS from "The Poor Man's James Bond" + + PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS + + Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years +by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or +to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any +danger of apprehension. + + They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to +force out the spent shell. + + There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. + + First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest +in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong +tape. + + The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger +flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The +trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. + + The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe +with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing +through the pipe. + + The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through +it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass +through the hole and rest on the primer. + + To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with +the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the +trigger and the thing actually fires. + + Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. +All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. + + Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. +For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas +line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the +firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a +wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of +steel pipe with threads and a cap. + + Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. +The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second +accomodates its wider powder chamber. + + A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to +comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. + + Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has +a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small +nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the +front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought +around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. + + In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it +by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to +where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go +off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel +does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. + + +Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon + +Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book + 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l + +Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! +I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes +only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their +fucking school to kingdom scum! + + Astrolite + +The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant +research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most +powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than +TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it +isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. + + Astrolite G +"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very +high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for +nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual +characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed +easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite +G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was +soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! + + To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) + Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight +'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that +the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough, +that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' +hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous... + + Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting +hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic +hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization +catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic +developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be +careful with. + + Astrolite A/A-1-5 +Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with +hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has +a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. + + Misc. info +You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens +though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be +able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. + + + Sodium Chlorate Formulas + +Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a +substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find +sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used +in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. + + Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder + +65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top. + + Rocket Fuel +6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement. + + Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) + +50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand), +10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur + +You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. + + Incendiary Mixture +55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur + + Impact Mixture +50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate + +Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when +mix- ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. + + Filler explosive +85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder + + Nitromethane formulas +I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite. + +Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139 +flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f + +Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. +Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, +fats, etc. + +To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: + +1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline + +Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. + + Nitromethane 'solid' explosives +2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) + +soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is +supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, +and has 30% more brilliance. + + The Firey Explosive Pen Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us + + Materials Needed Here's a GREAT little trick to play on + 1] One Ball Point `Click` pen your best fiend (no thats not a typo) at + 2] Gun Powder skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a + 3] 8 or 10 match heads friend! + 4] 1 Match stick + 5] a sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2") + +1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top. +2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little + parts and the ink fill was. +3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker. +4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on + the inside on the sand paper. +5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where + the ball point comes out. +6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is + to keep the powder from spilling. + +The Finished pen should look like this: + + Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \ + | | + \ | | + \ _________________|____________________|________ + <_______________________________|_______________|=== + + HOW TO BLOW UP A CAR: A different way by THE FLYING HERMIT + + There are times in a man's life when he gets mad at someone. And then there +are times when he gets REAL mad at someone. These are the times for vengence. +And what better way to get back at someone than damaging his/her car. The +thing which s/he has saved up for, worked hard for, and paid for. + Yes!!! This is the item which you must attack, for most of the time, it is +parked outside, easily accesible at night and very important to the asshole +you want to annoy. The method I will describe is relatively easy and safe to +set up, but very effective in causing damage. The method of destruction will +be explosion. The explosive device is already inside the car, factory +installed just for you to use. It is the standard 12 volt car battery. + +Let's look at the princleple behind the exploding battery: + +You are by now familiar with the theory of how batteries work, and if you +aren't, your probably too young to be thinking of these sorts of things. +Anyway, within the battery, is not only a current flowing from positive to +negative (actually, it is from negative to positive, but that's another +story), but also a small internal resistance. The resistance inside the +battery is in the order of magnitude of roughly .0024 OHM, an amount so small, +it is usually ignored. But, that is for normal operation of the battery. The +case we're interrested in is for the closed circuit of the battery by itself. +For a closed circuit, the internal resistance becomes a big deal, and the +following holds true: + 12volt/.0024 ohm = 5000 amps + Amazing!!!!! by causing a short circuit (closed circuit), the battery +produces 5000 amps of current running through that little bugger. However, +this current is short lived, and the battery cannot handle this capacity for +long, so therefore the battery explodes. It explodes with a rather large +force, causing considerable damage from the pressure, flames, and hurling +lead. All these goodies combined with the volatile liquids hidden inside the +engine will cause the vehicle to add another member to the big junk yard in +the sky. + Great!! now we know how to make the car blow up, but we don't want to go up +with hte car, so what we need is a triggering device. one can go from the +simple to elaborate, by incorporating sophisticated devices such as radio +transmitters, but for our purposes, we will opt for a simple timer and relay +device. + First, we will need some heavy cable, capable of handling the massive +current without melting, then we will need a relay also able to cope with +large currents. Next, we need a timer which will count down the seconds to +our triuphant vengance. And finally, a small battery to run the relay (the +small battery will run both the relay and the timer if you are using a digital +timer). Now: Connect the small battery to the timer, the timer to the relay, +and the relay to the car battery. Connect the heavy duty relay to the the car +battery with the heavy cable. There you have it!!!! + +remember, tinkering with other people's property is a no-no, and officer +friendly might get ugly with you if he sees you doing this, so be forewarned. +Also, car batteries are dangerous to play with, and if handled improperly, may +explode unintentionally, causing the concentrated acid to spray in your face, +making you look like the elephant man. so don't come crying to me when +something happens, cause i'll just laugh at you and possibly urinate over you +if you rub me the wrong way. + +call the RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs' at (312) 528-5020 + + MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! By Phucked Agent! + +Materials: + +1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off switch + + It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this one +or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces! + +1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up. +2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord +3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!) +4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching +the Hot-spot contact. +5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off! +6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket. +7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!! + +If your house is on fire (VERY RARE), get that damm fire blower! This stuph will +NOT destroy your plugs, but maybe the fuse depending how often you do that.... +Best try outside or college dorm... + +TRY SKIDD'S LAB BBS 312-631-5256 + + + A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe. It's only purpose it to +create a loud noise. + + The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire. You will +need a plastic milk carton, lighter fluid(type used in cigarette lighters), a +piece of paper, and a pair of chopsticks. If you can not obtain chop sticks, +it's okay to substitute them with something that can hold the paper and is +long enough so that you won't be harmed by the flames. + + After acquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make the bomb. +The procedure is easy. First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk +carton with a screw driver or equivalent. Next fill one-fourth of the milk +carton with lighter fluid. + + Place the milk carton in a fairly large area outisde. Hold a piece of paper +between the chopsticks and light the paper with a match. Cautiously place the +lighted paper under the hole of the carton and BOOM! You have your loud +explosion with little damage to the surrounding area. It would be a good idea +to have some water handy to extinguish any flames. + + Be careful when doing this and have fun. + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom13.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom13.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..bd6f9267 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom13.ana @@ -0,0 +1,5529 @@ +THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF 1.3 10-06-91 [REPLACES TBBOM12.ZIP/ TBBOM12.TXT] + +Copyright 10/06/91 by CHAOS Indus. All Rights Reserved with 3 exceptions: + + UNLIMITED Distribution in cybernetic media of an UNMODIFIED copy of +this document is allowed, with the following exceptions: + + 1. If a FEE is charged for access to this file or for + downloading in general , the authors must receive 25% of such + fee or $19.95, whichever is greater. + 2. This document may NOT be distributed via COMPUSERVE. + 3. Users are allowed to make no more than two (2) complete and + unmodified hardcopy versions of this file for personal use. + + If you did NOT receive this file in the form of a 98K ZIP file, it is +likely that you do not have a complete copy. To obtain one, send E-mail to the +addresses mentioned below. Fine bound softcover versions of this document will +be made available in late winter 1991. To get one of this limited signed and +numbered edition, send $19.95 + 5.50 S&H to: + + BOX 438, 71 E. 32nd St. Chicago, IL 60616 + +Make all checks and money orders payable to: LASERSCRIBE, INC. + + + +Preface + +10/5/91- Editing of the file is assumed by Vlad Tepes. Plans are currently +being made to convert the character graphics to bitmaps, as well as plans for +eventual hardcopy distribution. Updates will be distributed on the RIPCO BBS +at (312) 528-5020 and over the USENET via the rec.pyrotechnics newsgroup. + + By version 1.5 I hope to have .GIF files to replace the current character +graphics, and to have removed all duplicate entries. + +Note from the Editor: + + To make suggestions, corrections, or to + submit new information, send mail to: + to DAVID RICHARDS on the RIPCO BBS, or: + cshawk_pro38@iitvax.iit.edu + cshawk_pro38@iitvax.bitnet + +Please refer to any items by section number or EXACT section heading. + + +Note from the author: + + Remember, the First Amendment is not a shield. Care must be taken to ensure +that no law is broken when information is gained or divulged. I have read +every word of this file, and swear that no article of this document is illegal +in any way. + + + REVISION HISTORY + +1987-1989 Compilation of original file +Early 1990 Original file lost in crash +August 8, 1990 File reborn as The Compleat Terrorist Today, August 8th, + 1990, at 1 AM, I found a copy of The Terrorist's Handbook on + a BBS, and recombined it with some other G-files. +March 31, 1991 In February, I had a major loss of data, but regained TCT + from a local BBS. I did some cosmetic work and killed some + redundancies, and renamed the file to TBBOM. Total file size + is now about 172 printed pages. (You may wish to print this + file out and bind it) +April 12, 1991 File revised by Vlad Tepes on Ripco II. Some deletions and + many valuable additions. I (The Editor) felt that the file + should have version numbers, so, in light of the additions by + Vlad Tepes, the first volume number is 1.1. +July 29, 1991 Revisions and addenda by Vlad Tepes. A revision is a change + in the information (The original text is immediately followed + by the new information) and an addendum refers to new + information. +October 6, 1991 Vlad Tepes assumes the job of co-author/editor. A few + neccessary deletions are made, as well as minor cosmetic + changes and additions. + + +begin "THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF" + +PART 1 - The Terrorist's Handbook - Self explanatory. + + THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK + +1.0 INTRODUCTION + + Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is proud to present this revised edition of The +Terrorist's Handbook. First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos +Industries assumes no responsibilities for any use of the information +presented in this publication. The purpose of this is to show the many +techniques and methods used by those people in this and other countries who +employ terror as a means to acheive political and social goals. The techniques +described here may be found in public libraries, and can often be carried out +by a terrorist with minimal resources. The processes and techniques herein +SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH +COULD RESULT FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS +PUBLICATION. ALTHOUGH ALL EFFORTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO INSURE ACCURACY THIS IS +MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! + +We feel that it is important that everyone has some idea of just how easy it +is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is the justification for +the existence of this publication. + +1.1 Table of Contents + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + +2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS +2.01 ........ Black Powder +2.02 ........ Pyrodex +2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder +2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder +2.05 ........ Flash Powder +2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS +2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks +2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY +2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS +2.31 ........ Nitric Acid +2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid +2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES +3.01 ........ Explosive Theory +3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES +3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals +3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate +3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine +3.14 ........ Picrates +3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.21 ........ Black Powder +3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose +3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures +3.24 ........ Perchlorates +3.25 ........ Flash Powder +3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) +3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.33 ........ ANFOS +3.34 ........ T.N.T. +3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate +3.36 ........ Dynamite +3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives +3.38 ........ Picric Acid +3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) +3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride +3.41 ........ Lead Azide +3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" +3.51 ........ Thermite +3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails +3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle +3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives +3.6 ......... Dry Ice +4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES +4.1 ....... SAFETY +4.11 ........ How Not To Get Killed +4.12 ........ Guidelines For Production +4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES +4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition +4.22 ........ Impact Ignition +4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition +4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition +4.241 ....... Mercury Switches +4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches +4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators +4.3 ....... DELAYS +4.31 ........ Fuse Delays +4.32 ........ Timer Delays +4.33 ........ Chemical Delays +4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS +4.41 ........ Paper Containers +4.42 ........ Metal Containers +4.43 ........ Glass Containers +4.44 ........ Plastic Containers +4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES +4.51 ........ Shaped Charges +4.52 ........ Tube Explosives +4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions +4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs +4.55 ........ Book Bombs +4.56 ........ Phone Bombs +5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS +5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) +5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition +5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition +5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition +5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) +5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition +5.22 ........ Shotguns +5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) +5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition +5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition +6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS +6.1 ....... ROCKETS +6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb +6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb +6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs +6.2 ........ CANNONS +6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon +6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon +6.23 ........ Reinforced Pipe Cannon +7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA +7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs +7.2 ......... Colored Flames +7.3 ......... Tear Gas +7.4 ......... Fireworks +7.41 ........ Firecrackers +7.42 ........ Skyrockets +7.43 ........ Roman Candles +8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION +9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS +10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY +11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + +2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS + + Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or +more pharmacies. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit +in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know +something about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for +example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with +each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black +powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade +of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the +smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. + + +2.01 BLACK POWDER + + Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the +smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely +important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a +confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. +The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual +bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning +powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are +listed below: + + GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN + ÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles + FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles + FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers + + The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more +surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades +also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black +powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the +grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of +powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited +accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb +moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a plastic spoon and +a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply +pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or +circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine +as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one +wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to +fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder, +since anyone can own black powder firearms in the United States. + + +2.02 PYRODEX + + Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes +in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound +container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black +powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, +and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not +be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to +absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the +same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and +dried. + + +2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER + + One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is +the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are +composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a +fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube +length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, +the gray fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. +This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is +exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain in +the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a +plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This +should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be +crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from +1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the +more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per +package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in +stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized +for their explosive powder. + +2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER + + Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle +standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be +referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Smokeless gunpowder is made +by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some +other cellulose material. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then +reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder, +the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large +and small grained smokeless powder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder +when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with +more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding +process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for +smokeless powder. owder costs about $9.00 per pound. In most states any +citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently +few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now ID checks in +many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't +subject to such checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by mail +order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT regulations on packaging. + + +2.05 FLASH POWDER + + Flash powder is a mixture of powdered aluminum metal and various +oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated +with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is +sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very +finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The +fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. + + It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot +white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. +It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. Flash powder is often +made with aluminum and/or magnesium. Zirconium metal is the main ingredient in +flash BULBS, but is too expensive to be used in most flash powder mixtures. + + +2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a +commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite +with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is +touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation +will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high +explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro- +glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold- +Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist +of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium +nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, +remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, +airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb +water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers. + + +2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS + + The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section +deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. +Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, +and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab +buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most +of the labs will still be unlocked. + + +2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS + + If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most +effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are +unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these +methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks. + +These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, +but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule +here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several +devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental +tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin +pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all +these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the +latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is +done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing +the latch back into the door. + +Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door +closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from +being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate +of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently +far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be +slipped. + +(Ill. 2.11) ___ + | } < + Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger + second |___} < + finger + +Some methods for getting through locked doors are: + + 1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the + frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to + the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed + with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position + horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it + out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after + shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of + forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, + and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards. + 2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding + them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely + innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they + work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but + then why bother to slip the lock at all? + 3) Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far + enough to slip. + 4) If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or + replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so + that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If + you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make + it much easier to pick. + 5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door + opens outward), remove the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with + welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its + effectiveness. + 6) If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, + break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger + retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g., + Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially, + yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or + screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the + door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to + attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/.... + 7) Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things + in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical + resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that + everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a + tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a + wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for + better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can + get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with + a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a + micrometer works best: keys made from mic measurements are more likely + to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us + tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that + works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble + it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed. + 8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have + simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be + consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small + screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply + a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the + screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With + practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins + will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the + top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up, + additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in + conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older + or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the + cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if + their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins + to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it + generally takes a *lot* of patience. + 9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take + breaks. Make the most of your opportunities. + 10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes + anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to + look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and + normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that + they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups + at 3 AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's + aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually + *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you + do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any + theft or break-ins reported there the next day... + 11) Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a + building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys + are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places + that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in + each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those + places you're *really* curious about. + 12) Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the + lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or + similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.) + + +2.11.1 SLIPPING A LOCK + + The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It +is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent +as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls +nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs, +etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb +is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't +leave home without one. + + (Ill. 2.11.1 #1) + +The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that +looks like this: + ________________________________________ + /________________________________________| + | | + | | L-shaped + | | + | | + |_| + +(Ill. 2.11.1 #2) + _____________________________ + / ___________________________| + | | + | | J-shaped + | | + | |________ + \________| + +(Ill. 2.11.1 #3) + _____________________ + / ___________________| + | | + | | + | | U-shaped + | | + | |____________________ + \____________________| + + +We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities +have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At +most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal +charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are +particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks +that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.] + +we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are +various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For +instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any +key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least +don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too +much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey. + + +2.11.2 OPENING MASTER "WARDED" LOCKS (by Vlad Tepes) + +These are the lock with the keys that look like this: + +(Ill. 2.11.2 #1) + + _ _ + / \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \ + \_/ [] [] [] [] + +Just file the key down so it looks like this: + +(Ill. 2.11.2 #2) + _ _ + / \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~ + \_/ [] + +Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and +down, turning as you pass each block, to find the internal lever that will +release the latch. It's possible that some of the newer locks have more than +one lever, which makes the process much more difficult. + + +2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY + + Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and +drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous +compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some +money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. + +Chemical Used In Available at +________ _______ ____________ + +alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores + solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores + +ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven + +ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, +nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores + +nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores + poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops (The Alley at + Belmont/Clark, Chgo) + +magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores + +lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores + +mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores + +mercury mercury thermometers supermarkets, + hardware stores + +sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores + +glycerine pharmacies/drug stores + +sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store + +charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets + gardening stores + +sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store + +cellulose (cotton) first aid drug + medical supply stores + +strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, + +fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, + +bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, + +potassium permanganate water purification purification plants + +hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores +methenamine (camping) + +nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops + plates photography stores + +Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO + +sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores + (VERY impure) for cutting torches + + + ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen +by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A +desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. + + & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form +that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure +form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be +expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. + + +2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS + + While many chemicals are not easily available in their pure form, it +is sometimes possible for the home chemist to purify more easily available +sources of impure forms of desired chemicals. + + +2.31 NITRIC ACID + + There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for +explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once +again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! + + Materials: Equipment: + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source + potassium nitrate + retort + distilled water + ice bath + concentrated + sulfuric acid stirring rod + + collecting flask with stopper + +1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. + +2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium +nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, +carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. + +3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the +collecting flask in the ice bath. + +4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid +begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric +acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, +or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too +strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can +result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may +explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away +from it. + + Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, +simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur +and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to +dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter +the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the +liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are +insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, +potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. + +2.32 SULFURIC ACID + + Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or +industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car +battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of +a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably +be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, +either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can +also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster +than clean motor oil. + + +2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. +It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice +bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, +ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one +would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water +and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine +powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight +container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals +formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the +remaining water. + + +3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES + + Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE +ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS +TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT +OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. + + These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could +conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually +scaled-down industrial procedures. + +3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY + + An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, +undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that +is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down +into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original +piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air +are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed +greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains +the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: +high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and +primers, which may do both. + + High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order +explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes +through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart +the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate +approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In +a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the +shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to +produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of +high order explosives. + + Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. +when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and +gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under +pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as +gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and +hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; +they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in +unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are +good examples of low order explosives. + + Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as +mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are +usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low +explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that +they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are +confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a +shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to +decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are +also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a +bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer. + +3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES + + Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here, +only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium +triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no +light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even +the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. + + +3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS + + Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals +that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they +are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such +crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks +across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps +and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, +or heated. Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The +pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should +be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is +heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. +Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will +usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a +solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent +brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, +since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things +there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for +about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. While +such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could +utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of +them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a +few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be +seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. + + Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner: + + Materials Equipment + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + iodine crystals funnel and filter paper + paper towels + clear ammonia + (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars + for the suicidal) + +1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars + must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. + +2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. + +3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the + funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in + every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a + semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with + one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place + the cone into the funnel. + +4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the + solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. + +5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar + to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. + +6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, + and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure + that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they + could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into + eight pieces of about the same size. + +7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of + duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape + together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. + Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and + store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of + about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can + be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process + which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. + One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight + containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place + them where they will be stepped on or crushed. + + +3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE + + Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating +compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of +infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the +fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably +use the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + 5 g mercury glass stirring rod + + 35 ml concentrated 100 ml beaker (2) + nitric acid + + ethyl alcohol (30 ml) adjustable heat source + + distilled water blue litmus paper + + funnel and filter paper + + Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make +mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + + Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be +hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other +less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are +available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should +be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury +vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a +good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not +get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. + +1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, + using the glass rod. + +2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the + solution turns green and boils. + +3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and + carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or + brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. + +4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that + the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the + distilled water to the solution. + +5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid + solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and + toxic. + +6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess + acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are + neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches + the wet crystals + +7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from + any explosive or flammable material. + + This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury +cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of +ethanol to every one volume of mercury. + + +3.13 NITROGLYCERINE + + Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the +most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. +Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to +make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by +the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is +converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to +make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: + + MATERIAL EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + distilled water eye-dropper + + table salt 100 ml beaker + + sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) + + concentrated nitric ice bath container + acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) + + concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer + acid (39 ml) + + glycerine blue litmus paper + + +1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. + +2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about + a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium + bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water + so that some remains undissolved. + +3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and + adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall + temperature. + +4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of + concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker + will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow + into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a + large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of + the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less. + +5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add + the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two + acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a + good idea to start another ice bath to do this. + +6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one + drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where + the mixed acids and glycerine meet. + + DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF + THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, WATCH OUT !! + + The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will +immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of +glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any +explosive in small quantities. + +7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, + adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution + in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the + nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the + concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. + +8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 + degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of + nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in + step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and + the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as + much of the acid- water solution as possible without disturbing the + nitroglycerine. + +9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it + into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate + much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less + likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine + with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if + necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. + +10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean + container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far + away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine + can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool + place. + + +3.14 PICRATES + + Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or +trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since +they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid +with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating +the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or +produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of +a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is +impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high +explosive. + +3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores +and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store +owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such +an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order +explosives. + +3.21 BLACK POWDER + + First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first +used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to +make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is +converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine +burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by +static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be +made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could +manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium clay grinding bowl + nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder + + or or + + sodium wooden salad bowl + nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon + + sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) + + charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) + + distilled water coffee pot or heat source + + + +1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding + bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or + sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. + +2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a +separate plastic bag. + +3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, + and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. + +4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium +nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no +more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. + +5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. + Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too + hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water. + +6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe + container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never + store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate + static electricity. + + +3.22 NITROCELLULOSE + + Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more +stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It +also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. +Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following +procedure: + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers + + concentrated funnel and filter paper + nitric acid + blue litmus paper + concentrated + sulfuric acid + + distilled water + + + +1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 +cc of concentrated nitric acid. + +2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 +minutes. + +3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to +wash it in. + +4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. + +5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to +be dried and stored. + +3.22.1 PRODUCING CELLULOSE NITRATE (From andrew at CMU) + + I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I +didn't have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At first +I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold +soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated, cheap +and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 and a +little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so little +water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered +concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I +believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool +or cotton cloth. + + Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with +nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing +the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled water. +I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?) When +that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water quenched +the runaway reaction of cellulose. + +The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned +into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether. + + WARNINGS + + All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When +it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all +manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in the +process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will happily +blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply. Not for the +novice. + + Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if it isn't stablized. The +decomposition is auto- catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if +the material is kept confined over time. The process is much faster if the +material is not washed well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers +such as diphenyl amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO +CONTACT WITH NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture +the small amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They +therefore inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case. + +Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away +with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it. + +3.22.2 Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by: + +1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is + recycled. + +2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water. + +3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water. + + If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, +then rinsed in fresh water. + + The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the +nitration will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced. + + There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is +useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not +explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed +to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed. + +(Ill. 3.22.2) + + + CH OH CH ONO + | 2 | 2 2 + | | + C-----O HNO C-----O + /H \ 3 /H \ + -CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O- + \H H/ H SO \H H/ + C-----C 2 4 C-----C + | | | | + OH OH ONO ONO + 2 2 + + CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE + + +3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES + + There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be +produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective +and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working +fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each +compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be +given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: + +oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ +potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact + sensitive; unstable + +potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; + charcoal 15% unstable + +potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely + magnesium or unstable! + aluminum dust 25% + +potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable + aluminum dust 33% + +sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable + sulfur 5% burn rate + +potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before + ignition depends +WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size + +potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable + +potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable + magnesium or + aluminum dust 20% + +potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? + +potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is + sulfur 10% black powder! + +potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot + or magnesium 40% + + + Oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ +potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- + sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches + +ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for + and small amount of space shuttle + iron oxide + +potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% + +potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder + sulfur 20% + +barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate +potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder + +barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate + aluminum dust 5% flash powder + +potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly + magnesium or unstable + aluminum dust 25% + +potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable +calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive + +potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; + aluminum or ignites if + magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! + +potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable + sulfur 10% +================================================================================ + +NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium +perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. + + The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns +AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of +burning. + + As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures +that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), +different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity +of the mixture. + +3.24 PERCHLORATES + + As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid +will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or +sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that +can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or +sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or +potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be treated +with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react +explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium +hydroxide are ideal. + +3.25 FLASH POWDER (By Dr. Tiel) + +Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to produce +your own flash powder: + +(1) Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc) separately in a + clean vessel. + +(2) NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition. + +(3) Mix the composition on a large paper sheet, by rolling the composition + back and forth. + +(4) Do not store flash compositions, especially any containing Mg. + +(5) Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the power + of such mixtures. + + KNO3 50% (by weight) + Mg 50% + + It is very important to have the KNO3 very dry, if evolution of ammonia is +observed then the KNO3 has water in it. Very pure and dry KNO3 is needed. + + KClO3 with Mg or Al metal powders works very well. Many hands, faces and +lives have been lost with such compositions. + +KMnO4 with Mg or Al is also an extremely powerful flash composition. + +KClO4 with Al is generally found in comercial fireworks, this does not +mean that it is safe, it is a little safer than KClO3 above. + +K2Cr2O7 can also be used as an oxidizer for flash powder. + +The finer the oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more powerful the +explosive. This of course will also increase the sensetivity of the flash +powder. + +For a quick flash small quantities can be burnt in the open. +Larger quantities (50g or more) ignited in the open can detonate, they do not +need a container to do so. + +NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate. + +Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products +are considered. Excess metal powders are generally used. This excess +burns with atmospheric oxygen. + +4 KNO3 + 10 Mg --> 2 K2O + 2 N2 + 10 MgO + energy + +KClO3 + 2 Al --> KCl + Al2O3 + energy + +3 KClO4 + 8 Al --> 3 KCl + 4 Al2O3 + energy + +6 KMnO4 + 14 Al --> 3 K2O + 7 Al2O3 + 6 Mn + energy + +Make Black Powder first if you have never worked with pyrotechnic +materials, then think about this stuff. + + Dr. Van Tiel- Ph.D. Chemistry + + +Potassium perchlorate is a lot safer than sodium/potassium chlorate. + +3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + High order explosives can be made in the home without too much +difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high +explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is +made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) +molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a +material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the +nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in +a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based +explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, +several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. + +3.31 R.D.X. + + R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with +plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is +because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to +detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too +severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, +but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. + +(Ill. 3.31) NO + 2 + | + N + / \ RDX MOLECULE + / \ + H C H C + / 2 2 + / | + O N N--NO + 2 \ / 2 + \ / + \ / + CH + 2 + + R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It +is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the +possible exception of ammonium nitrate. + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + hexamine 500 ml beaker + or + methenamine glass stirring rod + fuel tablets (50 g) + funnel and filter paper + concentrated + nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container (plastic bucket) + + distilled water centigrade thermometer + + table salt blue litmus paper + + ice ammonium nitrate + + +1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully + pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. + +2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts + of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and + it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could + result. Stir the mixture. + +3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more + ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, + ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold + when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the + temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes + +4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, + and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and + dispose of the corrosive liquid. + +5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter + the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and + 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more + stable and safe. + +6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely + using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. + +7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% + mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic + bag. This is one way to desensitize the explosive. + +8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. + it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. + +9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it + should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since + ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium + nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize + the R.D.X. + +10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a + density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. + +3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the haphazard +method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since +it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to +shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a +drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium +nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather +powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The +diagram below will explain. + +(Ill. 3.32) + _________________________________________ + | |__ | + ________|_ | | + | | T.N.T. | ammonium nitrate | + |primer |booster | + | + |________| | fuel oil | + | __| | + |_______|_______________________________| + + The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending +a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. + + +3.33 ANFOS + + ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO +solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to +pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to +detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by +weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps +the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also +requires a large shockwave to set it off. + + +3.33.1 About ANFO (From Dean S.) + + Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are +mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful +commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact that it is +cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is +dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To +keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck, +which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to most of +the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a dye of +some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to +distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer. + + ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive +to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. +Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters +include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, +dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. The +need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water +susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the atmosphere, and +becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with +borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low +density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no good, +and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low. Generally, +the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective. +ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it is places, +raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds to the cost, +and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some commercial, +cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises power +considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive. + + Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of +ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is +extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends a +AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More oil +makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and excess +fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the mixture is oxygen +poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as the +porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with various +materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being +absorbed. + + Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, +either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus, a +pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather +than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong +casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite +well. So will big piles. Thats how the explosive potential was discovered: a +small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the +cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big bang. +A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with +a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive +mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture. This is +what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The military +literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it is important +to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more powerful than +commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability, and thus a +strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They also tend to +go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then hey, who +doesn't.... + + Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly +useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or +"Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This is a +$60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus +demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. + + Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the +manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture +and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to +manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those +who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least +in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no +criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need +a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities +of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion +to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old +folks homes, okay. + + D. S.- Civil Engineer at large. + + +3.34 T.N.T. + + T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high +explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known +high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is +the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well +known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is +designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the +product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one +step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very +strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very +strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, +and it is filtered. + + +3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE + + Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be +obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of +vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the +material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, +however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making +such an explosive is outlined below: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag + (9 parts, by volume) + + petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl + (vaseline) or + (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon + +1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, + until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is + powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. + +2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the + plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. + put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. + +3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium + chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, + add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. + +4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to + greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, + is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. + + +3.36 DYNAMITE + + The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. +Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was +made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided +individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) +would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various +materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large +weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate +could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase +the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. + +3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES + + Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All +that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated +nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 +ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. +Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. +Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are +more readily detonated. + + +3.38 PICRIC ACID + + Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military +explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less +sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly +simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and +nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college +chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric +acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, +such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer +form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant +would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric +acid. + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask + + concentrated adjustable heat source + sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) + 1000 ml beaker + concentrated nitric or other container + acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in + + distilled water filter paper + and funnel + + glass stirring rod + + +1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml + of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. + +2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and + bring the water to a gentle boil. + +3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling + water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty + minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool + for about five minutes. + +4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to + cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section + 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in + the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, + stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should + occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of + the ice bath. + +5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more + tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, + and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. + +6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice + bath until it is cold. + +7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution + through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of + it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. + +8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the + filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. + +9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. + +10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will + react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode + spontaneously. + + +3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE + + Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. +It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than +that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric +acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when +placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear +household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into +a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add +clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. +The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate. + + +3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE + + Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow +liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or +when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to +produce. + +1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do + not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains + undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. + +2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing + hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a + stopper and glass pipe. + +3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the + beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers + together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow + droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down + to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. + + Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate +solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires timing +and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. + + The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently +heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes +from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating +flask in another flask that contains water. + +4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, + since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. + + +3.41 LEAD AZIDE + + Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other +explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. +It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily +detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to +produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. + + By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, +the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers +together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, +until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker +stops forming. + + Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The +precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead +acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. +Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. + +3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" + + The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be +used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented +here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. + +3.51 THERMITE + + Thermite is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous +amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not +react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both +finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the +oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that +produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat +energy produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but +when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around. + + MATERIALS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + powdered aluminum (10 g) powdered iron oxide (10 g) + +1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermite. + Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as + homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% + by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts. + + +2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of + potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric + acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section + 4.33. The other method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. + Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the + mixture can be ignited. + + +3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS + + First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now +exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, +and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, +such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter +fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large +glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the +flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in +the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. + + Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave +a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the +bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on +impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the +site of impact, and burst into flame. + +Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more +volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture +such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, +and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this +must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown + + +3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE + + The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather +than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best +a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the +very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. +When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays +onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck +by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The +chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced +to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate 12 oz.glass bottle + (2 teaspoons) + + sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside + + conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges + + gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels + + glass or plastic cup and spoon + +1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure + that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid + eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a + cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. + +2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. + +3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. + Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on + the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside + to dry. + +4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of + sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, + or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. + +5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold + the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium + chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to + dry. + +6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing + the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the + bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle + in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. + +7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct + liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution + on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, + simply throw it at any hard surface. + +8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH + COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM + CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. + +9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, + and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should + immediately burst into a white flame. + + +3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES + + Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane +stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To +make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would +be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or +other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, +and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and +expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. + + In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized +fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of +the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the +expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with +gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is +less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed +of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective +way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of +the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal +should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, +or any other flammable gas will do nicely. + + During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only +to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar +to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the +fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to +detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to +burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation. + + Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into +fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed in +a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding +rooms, rendering it structurally unsound. + + +3.6 Fun with dry ice... LOTS of fun with dry ice. (from the Usenet.) + + There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is +as follows: + +Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of +Dry Ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a quantity of water. + + Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and +temperature of the bottle the bomb will go off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. +Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go often in 3-7 minutes if +dropped into a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours in open air. + + The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles +and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as do the 2-liters, however glass +bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce dangerous shrapnel. + + Remember, these are LOUD! Dorian, a classmate of mine, set up 10 bottles +in a nearby park without adding water. After the first two went off (there +was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent the +next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's +all around them... + +USES FOR DRY ICE + +Time Bombs: + +1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans + that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister + would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair + amount of effort to open). + Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite + sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back. + Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention + is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere + within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then leave. + Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a + loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when the CO2 + pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid. + In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will proabably + never figure out what made the noise. + +2. Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many + chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the + cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute + (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying water + everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle. + +More things to do with Dry Ice: + + Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it +into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really impressive if the +water is warm enough + + "Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..." + "You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you KEEP +IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire." + + Editor's Note: Dry ice can be a lot of fun, but be forewarned: + + Using anything but plastic to contain dry ice bombs is suicidal. Dry ice +is more dangerous than TNT, because it's extremely unpredictable. Even a +2-liter bottle can produce some nasty shrapnel: One source tells me that he +caused an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that destroyed a metal garbage can. +In addition, it is rumored that several kids have been killed by shards of +glass resulting from the use of a glass bottle. For some reason, dry ice bombs +have become very popular in the state of Utah. As a result, dry ice bombs have +been classified as infernal devices, and possession is a criminal offense. + + +4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES + + Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to +apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to +vandalism, to assassination. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE +CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, +FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive +would take would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed +to do whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his +bomb with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the +device, and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would +be necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it +being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and +build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next +section. + +4.1 SAFETY + + There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak +in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. + + +4.11 HOW NOT TO GET KILLED (Ways to avoid scoring an "Own Goal") + + An "own goal" is the death of a person on your side from one of +your own devices. It is obvious that these should be avoided at all +costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to +err on the side of caution. + + BASIC SAFETY RULES + +1) DON'T SMOKE! (don't laugh- an errant cigarette wiped out the Weathermen) +2) GRIND ALL INGREDIENTS SEPERATELY. It's suprising how friction sensitive + some supposedly "safe" explosives really are. +3) ALLOW for a 20% margin of error- Just because the AVERAGE burning rate of a + fuse is 30 secs/foot, don't depend on the 5 inches sticking out of your + pipe bomb to take exactly 2.5 minutes. +4) OVERESTIMATE THE RANGE OF YOUR SHRAPNEL. The cap from a pipe bomb can + oftentravel a block or more at high velocities before coming to rest- If + you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can kill you. +5) When mixing sensitive compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of + static electricity. Mix the ingredients by the method below: + +4.12 HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS + + The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as +the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do: + +Ingredients: + +1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does + not use staples) + +The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound. + +1) Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in + two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet. +2) Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders + to roll towards the middle of the sheet. +3) By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth + in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill + from either of the loose ends. +4) Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If + it must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work + nicely) and store away from people, houses, and valuable items. + +4.2 IGNITION DEVICES + + There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic +"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive +mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical +detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are +more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an +electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being +caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to +hide. + +4.21 FUSE IGNITION + + The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite +type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse +in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse +is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It +is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 +for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe +bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a +match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the +grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade +ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, +since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare +a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still +retains its simplicity. One such method is described below: + + + MATERIALS + _________ + strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape + waterproof fuse + +1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 + inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the + start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch + when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of + fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This + will be shown below: + + Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of + combustion is 20 seconds. + + 20 seconds / 8 inches = 2.5 seconds per inch. + + If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired + time by the number of seconds per inch: + + 10 seconds / 2.5 seconds per inch = 4 inches + +NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, + AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, + AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! + +2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is + to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut + it off. + +3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not + pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard + base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to + make a second igniter. + +4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches + touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure + not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by + pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to + move. + +5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, + making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker + faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the + matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the + matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. + +(Ill. 4.21) + _____________________ + \ / + \ / ------ match book cover + \ / + | M|f|M ---|------- match head + | A|u|A | + | T|s|T | + | C|e|C | + |tapeH|.|Htape| + | |f| | + |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper + |#####|s|#####| + \ |e| / + \ |.| / + \ |f| / + \ |u| / + |ta|s|pe| + |ta|e|pe| + |.| + |f| + |u| + |s| + |e| + |.| + |_| + + The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. +The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the +matcheads when the match book is pulled. + +6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the + striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. + In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to + the burning match heads. + + +4.21.1 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: + + Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work +with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die +for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the +right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. + + To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 +teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use +cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together +until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn +through very easily. + + Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and +hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a +circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with +the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. +Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through +smoothly in one long motion. + + To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 +degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse +must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. +Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even +dry completely at room temperatures. + +Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight +container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use +a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled +out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be +extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. + + Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the +home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of +boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all +cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, +it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of +the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder +or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the +slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. + + A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of +boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. +The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a +firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry. + + +4.21.2 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK + + Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at +a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can +test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is +removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some +sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at +250 degrees. + + It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning +brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The +melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up +to cool and harden. + + It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. +These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a +moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are +great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. +Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing +unpredictable burning times. + + +4.22 IMPACT IGNITION + + Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous +terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it +must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being +transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a +removable impact initiator. + + The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made +initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such +primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a +cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are +also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package +of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the +way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. +A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: + +(Ill. 4.22) + ________________ + | | + _ | | + | | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| + _______| |^^^^^^^| + | ___________| + | | +no. 11 |_______| +percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing + cap : + here |__________ nipple onto bomb + |____ | + | |^^^^^^^^^| + |_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| + | | + |_________________| + + + When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into +whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed +into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed +on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount +before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The +only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must +strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a +small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when +thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb +with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which +end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the +person carrying the bomb is bumped hard. + + +4.22.1 MAGICUBE IGNITOR + + A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact iniator can be produced from the +common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic +cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has +a small metal rod holding it in place. + + CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently +upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB. + + Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be +effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the +bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the +plastic can be easily peeled away. + + The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based +smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thich glue-like paste. +Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal +rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely +covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the +remainder then ignition should be very reliable. + + To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer +can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air +the appropriate end will hit the ground first. + + +4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION + + Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and +most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition +work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools +of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a +"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that +could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a +device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted +in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation +sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best +electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting +caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in +packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use +them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military +squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they +explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only +burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. +This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, +however, military explosive squibs which will do the job. + +Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, +which in turn, can set of a high order explosive. + + +4.23.1 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE (By Capt. Hack & GW) + + Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it +down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case +of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb +with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will +heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. + + +4.23.2 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE + + Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it +to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and +then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want +about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good +size wire to use. + Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. +Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. +place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the +powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. + The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else +except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the +powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under +on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. + The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. +A single flashlight battery will set this off. + +4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION + + Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of +mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of +switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person +who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it +explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed + +4.24.1 Mercury Switches + + Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal +conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room +temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two +electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's +nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to +explain a mercury switch. + +(Ill. 4.24.1) + ______________ + A / \ B + _____wire +______/_________ \ + \ ( Hg )| / + \ _(_Hg___)|___/ + | + | + wire - | + | + | + + When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both +contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in +its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can +touch both contacts in the horizontal position. + + If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only +touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury +does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This +type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a +swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the +switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt +the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both +contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or +squib in an explosive device. + + +4.24.2 Tripwire Switches + + A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly +invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and +by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. +If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a +tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips +of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between +them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire +can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between +the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When +the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current +to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, +which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the +contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to +explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, +since the spring also conducts electricity. + + +4.243 Radio Control Detonators + + In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled +detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be +several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it +explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with +radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could +possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money +involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such +an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is +visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. +Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach +the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, +or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the +rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the +contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times +with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he +controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the +device became a detonator). + +4.3 DELAYS + + A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set +up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost +quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the +different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be +sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it +does. + + +4.31 FUSE DELAYS + + It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for +ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average +cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine +rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn +quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less +likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or +draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the +ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the +cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of +delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance +to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes +burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all +the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing +the fuse for a device in the hole formed. + +(Ill 4.31) + + |=| + |=| ---------- filter + |=| + | | + | | + |o| ---------- hole for fuse + cigarette ------------ | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + |_| ---------- light this end + +4.31.1 IMPROVED CIGARETTE DELAY (By Atur {THE pyromaniac }) + + A variation on the standard cigarette display was invented by my good +friend Atur (THE Pyromaniac). Rather than inserting the fuse into the SIDE +of the cigarette (and risk splitting it) half of the filter is cut off, and a +small hole is punched THROUGH the remainder of the filter and into the +tobacco. + +(Ill. 4.31.1) + + --------------------------------- + |FIL|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco + fusefusefusefuse Tobacco Tobacco side view + |TER|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco + --------------------------------- + ___ + / \ + | o | filter end view + \___/ (artwork by The Author) + + + The fuse is inserted as far as possible into this hole, then taped or +glued in place, or the cigarette can be cut and punched ahead of time and +lit normally, then attached to the fuse at the scene. + + A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet +of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with +powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a +fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused +with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed +with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A +chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few +bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the +first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party +supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the +fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are +possible. + + +4.32 TIMER DELAYS + + Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who +wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location +and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if +it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By +simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and +using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. +The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an +hour is desired. + + The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set +for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that +in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By +removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a +squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. +All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, +connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic +watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the +watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a +timer could be extremely small. + + The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can +usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the +recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be +connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be +work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or +electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch +would not have to be stepped up. + + +4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS + + Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some +cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England. The +delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the +initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British +citizenry. + + If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped +with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, +then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil +to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be +open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is +forming does not break the container. + +(Ill. 4.33) + _ _ + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |_____________| | + | | | | + | | sulfuric | | + | | | | + | | acid | | + | | | |---------- aluminum foil + | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) + |_________________| + + + The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured +there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used +to ignite an explosive device in several ways. + +1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats + through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the + foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be + able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the + acid. + +2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid + drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium + chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, + or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some + potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this + mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite. + +3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. + + +4.331 MORE SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION + + Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so +they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting +supply. + + METHOD # 1 + Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl +alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately. + + METHOD # 2 + Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four +parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on +top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from +this. + + METHOD # 3 + Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium +peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right. +One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare. + + METHOD # 4 + Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated +nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. +When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame. + +4.4 EXPLOSIVE CASINGS + + This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a +complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which +are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. + + +4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS + + Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was +first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very +simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses +for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in +firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, +and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more +interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown +here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The +process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If +one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and +fold one corner so that it looks like this: + +(Ill 4.41) + ________________________________________________ + | |\ + | | \ + | | \ + |_____________________________________________|___\ + + and then fold it again so that it looks like this: + + ______________________________________________ + | /| + | / | + | / | + |________________________________________/___| + + A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, +pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the +quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. +A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful +not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it +should be taped together very tightly, since this will increase the strength +of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is +lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick +triangle, like the one shown below: + + +(Ill. 4.41) + ^ + / \ ----- securely tape all corners + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \____________________________ + /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse + + +4.42 METAL CONTAINERS + + The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained +explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match +heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- +tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills +the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause +enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode +the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and +the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. +Regular matches may still be ignited by friction, but it is far less likely +than with "strike-anywhere" matches. + + He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe. First, he would drill a +hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and +so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an +inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on +tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He +would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he +would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very +top, carefully pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and +pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it would not move +any further. + + Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue +paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads +of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which +might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled +bomb is shown in fig. 4.42 + +(Ill. 4.42) + ________ ________ + | _____|________________________________|_____ | + | |__________________________________________| | + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| + | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- + | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | |________|_________________________________| | + | |__________________________________________| | + |______| |______| + + endcap pipe endcap + w/ hole + + fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. + + The metal caps are VERY difficult to drill holes in, it is much easier to +drill a hole into the middle of the pipe (BEFORE FILLING IT!!!) and place the +fuse there. Lionel (a friend of mine) has had great success with this design. +After detonating one of these inside a cookie tin, he found the lid about 1/2 +block away, the sides of the tin blown out, and an impression of the pipe +(which was later found blown flat) threads and all on the bottom of the tin... +it seems that the welded seam gives out on most modern rolled pipes, however a +cast pipe (no seam) would produce more shrapnel (which may or may not be +desirable). + + This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he +did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece +of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. +A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without +tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it +will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of +copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. + +4.42.1 PIPE BOMBS FROM SOFT METAL PIPES + + First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making +sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be +folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should +be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be +inserted. + + Next, the bomb- builder would partially fill the casing with a low order +explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then +flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was +not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and +bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is +presented below: + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #1) + ________ + _______________________________________________/| | +| | o | | +|______________________________________________ | | + \_|______| + + fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #2) + ______ + ____________________________________________/ | | + | | | + | o | | + |___________________________________________ | | + \__|__| + + fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #3) + ____________ fuse hole + v + _______________________________ ______ + | \ |___ | + | \____| | + | ______| + | / + |_____________________________/ + + fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) + + +4.42.2 CARBON DIOXIDE "Pellet Gun" or Seltzer cartridges. + + A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low- +order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. +But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a +pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2 +cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning +fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called +"crater makers". + + From personal experience, I have found that a CO2 cartridge is easiest to +fill if you take a piece of paper and tape it around the opening to form a +sort of funnel: + +(Ill 4.42.2) + +A full \ / Use a punch or sharp philips (+) screwdriver to +cartridge \ / enlarge the pin-hole opening on a used cartridge. +can also be \ / +fun- @ It doesn't seem to be neccessary to seal the hole, + / \ but if you must do so, Epoxy and electrical tape +toss it into | | work quite well. +a lite fire | | +and it will (__) CONDENSATION may form inside a recently used +explode, and bottle- if you must use one right after emptying +the CO2 may it, heat it in a warm oven to dry it out. +extinguish the flames. + + A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermite incendiary +device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so +that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The +fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the +thermite . + +4.42.3 PRIMED EXPLOSIVE CASINGS + + + The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low- +order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the +latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller +low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order +explosive would probably be used. + +(Ill. 4.42.3) + _____________________________________ + | _ | + | / \ | + | High Explosive filler |LO ======= + | \_/ | + |____________________________________| + + + If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, +then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, +which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. + +4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS + + Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are +problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily +compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely +event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be +seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample +perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still +has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his +ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... + + Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a +demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal +detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill +the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly +in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. + +(Ill. 4.43) + ________________________ fuse + | + | + | + _____|_____ + | ___|___ | + | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; + | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap | > + | < | < | + | | | + | | + | | + | | screw cap on bottle + | | + | | + V_________V + + Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, +since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive +that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger +than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for +high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand +the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was +able to detonate. + +4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS + + Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since +they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping +can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones +used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with +plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not +detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by +heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be +glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used +as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a +drying agent works best in this type of device. + +(Ill. 4.44) || || + || || + ||\_____________/|| + || || + || epoxy || + ||_______________|| + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||** explosive **|| + ||***************|| + ||***********----------------------- fuse + ||***************|| + ||ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + || || + || epoxy || + || _____________ || + ||/ \|| + || || + || || + + + One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the +device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of +tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC +pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had +an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be +used in this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. + + In my experience, epoxy plugs work well, but epoxy is somewhat expensive. +One alternative is auto body filler, a grey paste which, when mixed with +hardener, forms into a rock-like mass which is stronger than most epoxy. The +only drawback is the body filler generates quite a bit of heat as it hardens, +which might be enough to set of a overly sensitive explosive. One benefit of +body filler is that it will hold it's shape quite well, and is ideal for +forming rocket nozzles and entire bomb casings. + + +4.44.1 FILM CANISTERS (By Bill) + +For a relatively low shrapnel explosion, I suggest pouring it into an empty +35mm film cannister. Poke a hole in the plastic lid for a fuse. These +goodies make an explosion audible a mile away easily. + +1) Poke the hole before putting the flash powder into the cannister. +2) Don't get any powder on the lip of the cannister. +3) Only use a very small quantity and work your way up to the desired + result. +4) Do not pack the powder, it works best loose. +5) Do not grind or rub the mixture - it is friction sensitive. +6) Use a long fuse. + + Bill + + +4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES + + The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person +who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this +information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. +Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a +minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost +always involve high- order explosives. + +4.51 SHAPED CHARGES + + A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the +explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used +to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of +pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order +explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL +EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! + + An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + +(Ill. 4.51) + + wire ________ _______ - wire + _ _________|_________|____________ + ^ | ________|_________|__________ | + | | | | | | | + | | | \ igniter / | | + | | | \_______/ | | + | | | priming charge | | + | | | (mercury fulminate) | | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | / \ | | + 8 inches high | | / \ | | + | | / high \ | | + | | | / explosive \ | | + | | | / charge \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch + | | | / \ | | thick steel + | | | / \ | | pipe + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | hole for | | | | hole for + | screw | | | | screw + V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ + |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| + + |<------- 8 inches -------->| + + If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would +direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the +opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in +the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A +device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a +powerful electromagnet. + + +4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES + + A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that +shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a +sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive +container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be +produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This +type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a +telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely +destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive +would look like this: + +(Ill. 4.52) + ||\____/|| + || epoxy|| + ||------|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||______|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || RDX || + ||*____*|| + ||*| s|*|| + ||*| q|*|| + ||*| u|*|| + ||*| i|*|| + ||*| b|*|| + ||*| b|*|| + ||*|__|*|| + ||__||__|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||--||--|| + || epoxy|| + || || || + ||/ || \|| + || || || + ||_______ + wire ______________ + |________ - wire ______________ + + + When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it +around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube +bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, +and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. + + +4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS + + If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small +particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion +similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The +tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, +pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and +ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would +push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized +particle explosion. + + If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable +substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or +other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be +extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon +jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the +charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If +this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would +surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to +accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. +Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary +that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a +low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the +flammable material. + + +4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS + + An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the +light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead +light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes +with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the +lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a +lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must +be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue +gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other +bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or +oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down +to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive +material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base, +it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the +bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the +bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a +working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into +the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much +success, since few people would search the room for a bomb without first +turning on the light. + + +4.55 BOOK BOMBS + + Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where +perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by +authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to +set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called +a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. + + Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the +hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, +large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a +bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place +where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb +can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First, +all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire +container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the bucket +with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of +the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled +to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the pages +of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be +thoroughly soaked. + + It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to +the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both +covers and clamping the pages together in a vise works best. When the pages +dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now +rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the +coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle +of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The +pages, when drilled out, should look like this: + +(Ill. 4.55) + ________________________ + | ____________________ | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |__________________| | + |______________________| + + (book covers omitted) + + This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. +After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled +variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever +timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from +rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio +control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is +taken to its destination. + + +4.56 PHONE BOMBS + + The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to +kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the +person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high +explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the +current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the +high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is +acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. + + Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's +leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section +3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is +surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. + + When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, +he will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow +through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a +phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the +tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the +device explodes... + +4.56.1 IMPROVED PHONE BOMB (from Dave R.) + + The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig the +device as follows: + + _________ FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL + /|-------|\ Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece, + ~ | | ~ (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive + @@@@@@@@ the full line power, not just the audio power to the earpiece) + @@@@@@@@@@ + @@@@@@@@@@ Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back + in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the + circuit to the detonator.... + + +5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS + + Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social +deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over +individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to +kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from +crossbows to shotguns. + + +5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS + + For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive +that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This +means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. + + +5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION + + Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is +extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter +to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum +piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire +segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates +upon impact, or with a fuse. + + All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and +diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube +with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to +about 1/2 an inch from the top. + + Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the +tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 +percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue or epoxy. + + Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and +make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and +glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: + +(Ill. 5.11) + ____________ +___|____________\____________________ +\ ---. +/__ ________________________________---` + |____________/ + + + When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap explodes, +igniting or detonating the explosive. + + +5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS + + The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A +blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or +poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is +not difficult. To acquire a blowgun, please contact the editor at one of the +addresses given in the introduction. + + Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, +such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill +capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores. Next, the capsule +would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury fulminate. +An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact +sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used. + + Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel +or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure +that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. + + Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the +tassel or cotton, and look something like this: + +(Ill. 5.12) + ____________________ + /mercury | \----------------------- + (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels + \________|___________/----------------------- + + + Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could +easily blow the back of your head off. + + +5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS + + A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble +about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be +lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the +relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the +wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. + + A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating +device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. + + Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted +with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to +make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did +not explode before it reached its intended target. + + Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber +blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they +must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. + + +5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS + + When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and +rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with +a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be +difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There +is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition +is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the +slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For +this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. + + +5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS + + If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her +handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive +explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, +and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole +in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of +an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in +the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed +exploding bullet is shown below. + +(Ill. 5.21) + _o_ ------------ drop of wax + /|*|\ + | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive + | |_| | + |_____| + + This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. + + In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing +"exploding bullets" by placing a drop of mercury in the nose of a bullet. +Through experimentation it has been found that this will not work. Mercury +reacts with lead to form a inert silvery compound. + + +5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS + + Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some +extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell +is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, +if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the +bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched +weapons. + + Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the +shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end +of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. + + Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. +This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect +4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it +must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel +back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the +dowel. + + Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire +the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are +possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: + +(Ill. 5.22) ____ + || | + || | + || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel + || | + ||__| + || | + || | ------- fuse + || | + || + || + || + || --------- dowel + || + || + || + || --------- insert this end into shotgun + || + || + + Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used- use of regular blank +ammunition may cause the device to land perilously close to the user. + + +5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS + + This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for +compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, +and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids +toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. + + +5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS + + A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or +pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber +of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a +muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 +caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made +that has a caliber of .177. + + Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to +ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, +since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when +struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown +at a hard surface at a great speed. + + Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are +inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard +surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as +that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, +and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: + +(Ill. 5.31) + _____ primers _______ + | | + | | + | | + V V + ______ ______ + | ________________________ |------------------- + | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or + | ________________________ |------------------- cotton + |_____ _____|------------------- + ^ + | + | + |_______ antenna tubing + + The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The +tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. +Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to +insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile +should be about 3/4 of an inch long. + + + +5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS + + A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at +close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be +adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in +section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or +smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one +would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition +primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 +cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. + + +6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS + + Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. +Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are +difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to +make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such +things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to +fear. + + +6.1 ROCKETS + + Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before +the myth of christ began. They were used for entertainment, in the form of +fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were +inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets +are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have +no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military +rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular +hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, +a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket +engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 +lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a +significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger +rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket +engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most +model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help +explain them. + +(Ill. 6.1) + _________________________________________________________ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing + \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| + _______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| + / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| + /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + casing + + + The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled +"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a +propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of +hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket +forward. + + After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is +ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that +has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, +white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be +seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. + + When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". +The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, +exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the +parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a +bomb... + + Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine +labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an +indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" +engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The +number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in +pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the +thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" +indicates a 3 second delay. + +NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum + dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. + The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. + + +6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB + + A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered +to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device +would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from +balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" +engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater +maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure +that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over +the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. +The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. + +(Ill. 6.11 #1) + + ____________ rocket engine + | _________ crater maker + | | + | | + V | + _______________________________V_ + |_______________________________| ______________________ + \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ + \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ + __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) + / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / + /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ + |_______________________________| + + thrust> - - - - - - + smoke> *** + ejection charge> :::: + + + Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket +engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge +Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such +as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. + + Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that +the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: + +(Ill. 6.11 #2) + + |\ + | \ + | \ + | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine + | \ + | \ + | \ + | | + | | + | | + leading edge | + -------> | + | | + | | trailing edge + | | <-------- + | | + | | + | | + | | + \_____/ + + + The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so +that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two +inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch +it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment +of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the +fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. + +(Ill. 6.11 #3) + | + fin | <------ fin + | | | + | | | + | __|__ | + V / \ V + ---------------| |--------------- + \_____/ + |o <----------- segment of plastic straw + | + | + | <------ fin + | + | + + By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a +launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is +simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic +straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one +illustated on the following page: + +(Ill. 6.11 #4) + ____ + / \ + | | + cut here _____ | + | | + | | + | / \ + V / \ + _________________/ \________________ + / \ + / \ + /____________________________________________\ + ^ + | + | + and here ______| + + + Bend wire to this shape: + +(Ill. 6.11 #5) + _______ insert into straw + | + | + | + V + ____________________________________________ + \ + \ + \ + \ + \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle + | + | + | + | + | + | <---------- put this end in ground + | + + +6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB + + Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model +rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in +multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of +such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection +charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an +"0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and +burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the +thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing +an overall loss of weight. + + The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as +travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed +somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket +to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. +This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving +the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the +rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: + +(Ill. 6.12) + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker + | | + | | + |___| + | | + | | + | | + | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine + /| 6 |\ + / | | | \ + / | 5 | \ + / |___| \ ---- fin + / /| |\ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | C | \ \ + | / | 6 | \ | + | / | | | \ | + | / | 0 | \ | + |/ |___| \| + | / \ | + \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin + | + | + | + | + C6-0 rocket engine + + The fuse is put in the bottom engine. + + Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it +a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the +fin area gets larger. + + + +6.2 CANNON + + The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th +century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, loaded, +and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, +otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the +barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, +if he/she had a small sum of money, and some patience. + + +6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON + + A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only +difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. +This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or +aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick +to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. + + If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile +can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such +a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very +smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. +Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or +tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the +crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two +teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by +ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. +Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. +If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will +not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: + +(Ill. 6.21 #1) + __________________ fuse hole + | + | + V + ________________________________________________________________ + | |_____________________________________________________________| + |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge + | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ + |_|______________________________________________________________| + + An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 +cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and +construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the +cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except +for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a +tissue paper packing wad. + +(Ill. 6.21 #2) + ___ + When the cannon is fired, it ( ) +will ignite the end of the |C | +fuse, and shoot the CO2 | M| +cartridge. The | | +explosive-filled cartridge | | +will explode in about three \ / +seconds, if all goes well. [] <--- taped fuse +Such a projectile would look [] +like this: [] + ! <--- Bare fuse (add matchheads) +6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON + +(Ill. 6.22) + ___ A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a + / \ normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A + | | rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket + | C | alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the + | M | initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is + | | moving will go further than one that is launched when it + | | is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal + |___| rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look + | E | like the image to the left. + | N | + | G | the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, + | I | but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection + | N | charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection + | E | charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb + |___| explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the + burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and + simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high + velocity. + + +6.23 REINFORCED PIPE CANNON (added by Loren) + +In high school, a friend and I built cannons and launched CO2 cartridges, etc, +etc. However, the design of the cannon is what I want to add here. + +It was made from plain steel water pipe, steel wire, and lead. + +Here is a cross section: + +(Ill. 6.23) + _______ + | | + | xxxxx_____________________________________________ 2" ID pipe + | |_________________________________________________ + | | .................... <- steel wire } + | | _____ } 3/4" ID pipe +this | | | xxx______________________________________}_________________ +wire | | | |__________________________________________________________ +holds | |....| | +it up |>|....| | +in the| | | |__________________________________________________________ +cooker| | | xxx________________________________________________________ + | | |____ } + | | ..................... } <- cast lead + | |_______________________________________________}_ + | | _____________________________________________ + | xxxxx + |_____| + + + We dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of firebrick. +Then we stood the assembled pipe and wire on end in the chimney, sitting on +some bricks. We then had a blowtorch heating up the chimney, so that the pipe +was red hot. Then we poured molten lead into the space between the pipes. If +the caps aren't screwed on real tight, some of the lead will leak out. If +that happens, turn off the blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and the +lead will stiffen and stop the leak. + + We used homemeade and commercial black powder, and slow smokeless shotgun +powder in this thing. After hundreds of shots we cut it up and there was no +evidence of cracks or swelling of the inner pipe. + + Loren + + +7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA + + There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of violence +might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large military +smoke bombs can be bought through ads in gun and military magazines. Also, +fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display rocket +would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the +ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, +which consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running +through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive +high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the +sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large +crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. + + +7.1 SMOKE BOMBS + + One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in +many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway +route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it +to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of +a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the +military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, +such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped +terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. + + Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such +as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will +burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to +burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a +base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has +a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other +excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground +plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be +mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of +the fuel-oxodizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke +when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The +trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic +cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the +smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to +burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic +containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, +producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion. + +7.11 SIMPLE SMOKE (By Zaphod) + + The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this + reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary + + 6 pt. ZINC POWDER + 1 pt. SULFUR POWDER + Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. + + +7.2 COLORED FLAMES + + Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by +putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the +ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that +produce the different colors of flames appear below. + +COLOR MATERIAL USED IN + +red strontium road flares, + salts red sparklers + (strontium + nitrate) + +green barium salts green sparklers + (barium nitrate) + +yellow sodium salts gold sparklers + (sodium nitrate) + +blue powdered copper blue sparklers, + old pennies + +white powdered magnesium firestarters, + or aluminum aluminum foil + +purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, + treating sewage + +7.3 TEAR GAS + + A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it +with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to +make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize +its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. + + EQUIPMENT FOR MAKING TEAR GAS + _________ + + 1. ring stands (2) 7. clamp holder + 2. alcohol burner 8. condenser + 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 9. rubber tubing + 4. clamps (2) 10. collecting flask + 5. rubber stopper 11. air trap + 6. glass tubing 12. beaker, 300 ml + + MATERIALS + _________ + + 10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water + +1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms +of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. + +2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. + +3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. + +4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a + brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. + Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is + corrosive. + +5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the + collecting flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a + safe place. + + +7.4 FIREWORKS + + While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, +they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several +basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, +profit, or nasty uses. + + +7.41 FIRECRACKERS + + A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The +instructions are below: + +1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. + "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. + +2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with + epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. + Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package. + +3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a + desired length of fuse. + +4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, + pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or + any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the + tube almost to the top. + +5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a + pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more + epoxy. + +6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it + to dry. + +7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash + powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing + the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the + explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks + of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of + the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks + will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or + from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. + + Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode + with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. + + First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material + inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. + + Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. + (NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, + AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash + powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small + balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag + overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. + Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was + satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker. + +8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to + semi-professional displays can be produced. + + +7.42 SKYROCKETS + + An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from +model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. + +1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that + the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) + +2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the + engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue. + +3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder + is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least + half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about + 1/2 an inch. + +4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various + types of effects can be produced. + +5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, + spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be produced. + + 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the + fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. + + +7.43 ROMAN CANDLES + + Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to +make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well +worth the trouble. + +1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several + layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube + from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths. + +2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the + drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. + +3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a + desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly. + +4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube. + +5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. + Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of + pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% + flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one + drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. + + This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when + left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. + Allow the ball to dry. + +6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly + easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently + against the ball with a pencil. + +7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a + safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored + fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This + height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step + 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. + +8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. + +9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, + producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. + + +8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION + + Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained +through a public or university library. There are also many publications that +are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to +make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary +magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of +places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also +includes fireworks companies and the like. + + +COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, + P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING + MURFREESBORO, TN + 37133 + + UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE + BOX 1378-SN + HERMISTON, OREGON + 97838 + + AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH + SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES + DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328 + + BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, + 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES + P.O. BOX 226 + PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 + + CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS + P.O. BOX 22927 + ROCHESTER, NEW YORK + 14692 + + R. ALLEN PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION + P.O. BOX 146 BOOKS & FORMULAS + WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090 + + MJ DISTRIBUTING FIREWORKS FORMULAS + P.O. BOX 10585 + YAKIMA,WA 98909 + + EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, + 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES + RENO, NEVADA + 89509 + + + COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451 + JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN + 53547 + + NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 + STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT + 06095 + + RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 + EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 + + STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW + WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD + RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 + + WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS + P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) + ROCHESTER, INDIANA 46975 + +BOOKS +ÄÄÄÄÄ +THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK (highly inaccurate) + +THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL (formulas work, but put maker at risk) + +MILITARY EXPLOSIVES + + + Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly +useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or +"Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, it's in the office). This is a +$60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus +demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. + +9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS + + In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she +wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the +chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order +of priority would probably resemble the following: + + LIQUIDS SOLIDS + _______ ______ + + ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate + ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate + ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) + ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate + ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium + ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum + ____ Potassium Permanganate + GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of) + _______ ____ Mercury + ____ Potassium Nitrate + ____ Hydrogen ____ Potassium Hydroxide + ____ Oxygen ____ Phosphorus + ____ Chlorine ____ Sodium Azide + ____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Lead Acetate + ____ Barium Nitrate + +10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY + + In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic +ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge +of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following +reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school +chemistry book. + + +1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide +K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O + 4 4 2 + +2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide + " + HNO ----> KNO + " + 3 3 + +3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " + 3 4 3 4 +4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " + 3 3 3 3 + +5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium + +A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H + 3 2 + +B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al + 3 2 + + The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container +which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and +sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high +explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great +excess. + +11.0 ABOUT THE EDITOR + + The current editor is presently attending a small midwestern college. He +has never been convicted, tried or charged with a crime, and will never admit +to having commited any one of the 87 assorted misdemeanors and felonies (not +counting multiple counts, such as the 103 dry ice bombs) which one might +accuse him of. V.T. (The EDITOR) + +11.1 ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + While in high school, the original author became affiliated with CHAOS, and +eventually became the head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at +age 18, he produced his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep +crater in an associate's back yard. He had also produced many types of +rockets, explosive ammunition, and other pyrotechnic devices. + + While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, he was injured when a +home made device exploded in his hand; he did not make the device. The author +learned, however, and then decided to reform, and although he still +constructs an occasional explosive device, he chooses to abstain from their +production. + +END OF PART 1 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST + + + WARNING: The second part of this book consists of untested and quite + possibly DANGEROUS plans, formulas and information. Under NO + circumstances should the reader even consider attempting to carry + out any of the procedures outlined below. + + THE EDITOR (V.T.) + +PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons +------ Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of + 15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing! + + Addendum by The Editor: If you aren't in the Chicago area, + check a local BBS list. If you see a BBS which runs under UNIX, + odds are it carries usenet. The appropriate place to look is + rec.pyrotechnics. + +At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather +than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a bunch +of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or +more. + + At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes +punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a small hole in the side at +the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it +reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then +placed therein. + + In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic +solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and +sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics, +we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato +chips provided spectacular entertainment. + + Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole +in the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The +"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it. + +BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that! +---------- + + Our version of the potato chip cannon, originally designed around the +Pringles potato chip can, was built similarly. Ours used coke cans, six with +the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had Bottle opener holes all +around one end, the top of this can was covered with a grid or piece of wire +screening to keep the tennis ball from falling all the way to the bottom. +This was spiral wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape. + + A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For +ignition we used lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push +button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way +back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of +two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through the other hole. + + We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When fired +with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range the +ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle. Closer up +the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a +moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside. +Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls. + +PART 4 + More Fun Stuff for Terrorists + + Carbide Bomb + +This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium +carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at +nearly any hardware store. + Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a +glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with +the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in +cutting torches. + Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a +burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! + Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower + +For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. +Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby +drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is +regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The +other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. +With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be +careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 +feet!!! + +PART 5- This is all various files I gleaned from BBS's. (Added 8-23-90) + + Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas +that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the balloon +tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones +that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get +the picture? Good... + + OPENING COMBO LOCKS + +[ Touched up by V.T - The Editor ] + + First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock +is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on +the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that is pushed in to the lock +when you lock it. + + To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired +combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the +lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock +without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps +when you don't know the combination to begin with). + + To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or +a opened out piece of a collapsing antenna (the inside diameter of the curved +piece of metal should be the same as the diameter of the shackle- if the metal +is too thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down. + + Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side +and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight +side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file +down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many +hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can jimmy +various locks. + + Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, +you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens +from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the +horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. + + Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the +crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the +pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to open. + + Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a +Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone +does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very +tight so ya can't get the shim in. + + PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS + WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER + + Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers, +principals and other people who are justassholes. depending on your level of +hatred of this person i would advise that you do some of these following +experiments: + + (1) Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already +know that gasoline + dishsoap(e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture +called napalm. now napalm is a jelly-like substance used in bombs, +flamethrowers, etc. now you can only guess what this mixture would do to +someone's fuel line!!!! + + (2) Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe- when +the exhaust pipe heats up(and it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe +will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car. +Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!! + + (3) Light Bulb Bomb- see part one of the file + + (4) Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under +the name flowers of sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very +strong odor and plenty of smoke. now all you need is a fuse from a +firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack very +lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into +the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value +your lungs. you can find many uses for this( or at least i hope so. + + FUN WITH ALARMS + + A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can +also use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. You can +purchase this at any hardware store as insulation. it is easy to handle and +dries faster. + +Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. this alarm is a small +device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his +body capacitance sets off the alarm. these nasty nuisences can be found by +walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly. +if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal +object to the knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think +someone is breaking in and call room service for help. all sorts of fun and +games will ensue. + + Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a +registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most +use three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from +all fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. after the keypad +has been used just apply finger print dust and all four digits will be marked. +now all you have to do is figure out the order. if you want to have some fun +with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same time. many units use this +as a panic button. This will bring the owner and the cops running and ever-one +will have a good time. never try to remove these panels from the wall, as +they have built-in tamper switches. + + On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liqour +stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip. these little nasties are +placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are +with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that's why when you make +your withdrawl it's best to help yourself so you can check for these little +nasties. if you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of +twenties, and then pull out the twenties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind +to prevent the circuit from closing. + + SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: + + THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON + + This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. the bottom of a +soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or other +explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is +then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. + + ! ! After first making sure there are no + ! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine + ! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put into the straw and the can is set + ---- ---- down by a tree or wall where it will not + ! !1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give + ! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will then + !* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby. + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER + ! ! !% ! + ! ==== ! + ! ! + ! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone would + ! --- ! pick up and drink from someone else's + ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft drink can. but if such a crude + ! / ! person should try to drink from your + ! ! bomb he would break a nasty habit + --------- fast! + + + Pyro Book ][ by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf + +TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE + +1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can. +2) add a few drops of glycerine +3) wait 3-4 min. +4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame.. + +** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple] +** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy... +** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts] + + +EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER + +INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the +attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would +like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how +to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does +it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the +resourses and materials available to you. + + Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because +they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is +going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials +that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you +need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting +point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a +small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a +firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is +easy. + + HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL + + This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume +Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of +this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step +back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest +a lot of experiments for this. + + ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL + + Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you +experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful +explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast +burning rate. + + --- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be +harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. +I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been +instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in +certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, +Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be +notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you +need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out +something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I +am guessing you would prefer it that way. + + + HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES + + Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; +then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets +easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for +a bomb without dying of boredom. + Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of +black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that +gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A +science teacher was killed that way. + Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you +can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your +thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly +against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 +feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat +to light the match. + + Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper +match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. +Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, +the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. + + I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are +made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws +off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff +wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of +wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. +It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets +hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. + + + HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID + + Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should +only cost a few dollars. What you will get is about a gallon of dilute +sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The +glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. + + Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until +white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot +plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass +container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no +metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb +moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time +bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and +follow me into the next installment. + + HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE: + + To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts +by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the +mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a +spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid +in the depression and step back. + It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. +To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a +small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the +clorate/sugar mixture. + Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos +fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric +acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite +the mixture. + The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying +how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react +with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the +side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and +used to set off the device of your choice. + + Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can +be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them +extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. +But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have +decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but +for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. + + + PEROXYACETONE + + PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK + SENSITIVE. + +MATERIALS- + 4ML ACETONE + 4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE + 4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID + 150MM TEST TUBE + +Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops +concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to +appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 +celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and +filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To +ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at +least a meter away) . + +I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical +demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some +experiments. + ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! + + +THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG + + This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting +experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work +depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and +brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some +knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. + + I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this +information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who +are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. + +I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION + +VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE +DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE +AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID +TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE +MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE +RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!) + + + GENERATING CHLORINE GAS + + This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you +shouild know what you're doing before you try this... + + Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach', +and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something +like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and +put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since +the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use +large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!). + + + CHLORINE + TURPENTINE + + Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the +bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start +burning... + + GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS + + To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react +with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, +etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter +than air.... light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*. + + Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this +involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric +current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two +test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking +6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of +water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside +them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some +wire going down to the electrodes. + + This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the +oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon +electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the +chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to +form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some +sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than +making the water conduct electricity. + +WARNING: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC + inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and + Oxygen at each electrode. + + + HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE + + Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it +inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted +with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The +hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity +and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not +react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is +turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react... + + PREPARATION OF OXYGEN + + Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from +a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off +oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. + + Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the +bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things +to burn better... + + IODINE + + Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To +seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat +it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the +tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol +should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine +crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't +tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen +triiodide. + ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! + + I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react +to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with +rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and +possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches) + + David Richards + + + TRIPWIRES + by The Mortician + + Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about +landmines... If you can't then here is the concept. + + You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that +will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt +battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can +create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this. + + ------------------>+ batery + steel || ->- batery + wool || / + :==:--- <--fuse \ + || / + ---- spst switch--\ + + So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or +igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light. + Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of +wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the +explosive. + + Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury +it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie +one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a +loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that +when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive. + + To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and +find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques... +On my board... (201)376-4462 + + + BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame) + + Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, +and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby +trap. + + There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise +remains the same. What you'll need: + + 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to + bend easily (galvanized iron works well) + 6 feet of wire or fishing line + 5-15 feet of strong string or rope + 1 really sick mind. + + Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so +they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30 +degrees. + + Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your +nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or +string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string +so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail +between the two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others +(see diagrams) + + bent nails + / || ^ slight upward tension +# /\ || +#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on) +# ------!----()------ +# trip wire + \ / +Trunk third nail + + Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the +other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a +stump etc). + + When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your +sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing +pin). + + There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be +attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip +wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two +bent nails. + + A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a +hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is +attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring. + + || +*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------* + SPRING BOLT Trip wire + + With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if +it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled. + + + Improvised Explosives +Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich + +CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT KILLING + HIS/HER SELF IN THE PROCESS. + + This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive +exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C + + Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It +needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by +treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. +C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. + + This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking +with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper +reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium +chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that +it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that +the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that +the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene +glycol. + + It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. +Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the +chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this +explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good +idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final +explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine: + +Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5% + + In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with +the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to +shock as is nitroglycerin. + The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix +these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This +kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when +the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use +this explosive as soon as possible. + + If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This +explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very +powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent. + + These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the +manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and +ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use +them. + Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with +an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been +made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very +few mis haps. + Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the +stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of +nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an +anvil. + Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I +mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any +doubts DON'T. + +Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich + + This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive +compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled +and absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's +its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and +kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. + + This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. +It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an +artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar +but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in +approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). + + This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric +acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified +aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the +final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be +taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric +acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin +and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. +They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. + + To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but +buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine +consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this +powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will +dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that +was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount +than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the +alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex +dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of +crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. + + Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and +dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat +to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric +frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good +cooking oil. + +When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, +that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This +next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a +good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any +procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding +58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in +the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas +(nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. + + The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until +the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the +beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is +allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped +slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow +crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in +200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then +the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, +very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and +places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. +This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. + + The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder +consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax +and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the +crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. +This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The +detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but +simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work +requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for +shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive +as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again +this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. + + AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF +INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE +RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. +THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH +ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE +UP AS NEEDED. + + +Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich + + This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and +explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main +explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, +and other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively +safe to manufacture. + + One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, +sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures +that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively +while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as +just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is +not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause +the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and +yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives +are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. + + To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite +solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large +pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium +chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in +the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 +g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this +solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading +is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). + + When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator +until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals +that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on +the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have +formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. + + Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and +mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml. +distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. +Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process +if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should +be relatively pure potassium chlorate. + + Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to +drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax. +Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on +90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a +plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately +mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, +dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. + + This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density +(1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges +guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not +suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low +detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be +considered the same for the sake of charge computation. + + If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the +manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the +wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The +addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation +velocity is 3300 m/sec.. + + +Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound By the Lich + + This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of +production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure +product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. + + In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water +and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium +chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice +due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate. + + This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the +ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or +equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process +mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation +reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. +H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough +boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky +substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this +chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling +hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed. + + This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid +left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution +reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear +filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water +evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. + + These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to +drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to +a very fine powder (400 mesh). + + If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization +is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the +resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The +powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with +vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO +FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in +this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower +detonation velocity. + + This explosive is composed of the following: + + potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10% + + Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline +carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is +used) should not be exposed to water or moisture. + + The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of +2-3% aluminum substituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this +aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will +ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this +explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. +for the sodium salt based explosive. + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume +that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and +that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline. + + +ASSORTED NASTIES: + + Sweet-Oil + In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. if +you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil +out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure +that I did some damage. + + Slow Air + Ok, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her +tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there +tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is +blows out on the road wih a razor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't +cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and +cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out +at a high speed if your lucky. + + Vanishing Paint + Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his +paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. +Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough. + + Loose Wheel + Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off. This +can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off. + + Dual Neutral + This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On +the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts +and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could +chip some of the teeth off the gears. + + Un-Midaser + Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust +so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on +transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you +work the more you fuck them over. + + + LAUGHING GAS + +Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of +the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the +patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing. +Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. + + Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is +because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were +inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. + The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of +the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag +under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! + To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply +house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. + + First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you +evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy +brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when +a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. + + When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break +it up and store it in a bottle. + + A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading +into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. + + When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If +white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. + + When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. + +CAUTION: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it. It's + easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing + reflex doesn't know it. Do not put your head in a plastic bag + (duhh...) because you will cheerfully choke to death. + + PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS + + Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years +by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or +to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any +danger of apprehension. + + They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to +force out the spent shell. + + There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. + + First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest +in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong +tape. + + The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger +flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The +trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. + + The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe +with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing +through the pipe. + + The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through +it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass +through the hole and rest on the primer. + + To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with +the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the +trigger and the thing actually fires. + + Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. +All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. + + Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. +For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas +line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the +firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a +wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of +steel pipe with threads and a cap. + + Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. +The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second +accomodates its wider powder chamber. + + A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to +comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. + + Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has +a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small +nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the +front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought +around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. + + In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it +by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to +where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go +off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel +does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings +may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use. + + +Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon + +Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book + 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l + +Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! +I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes +only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their +fucking school to kingdom scum! + + Astrolite + +The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant +research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most +powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than +TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it +isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. + + Astrolite G +"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very +high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for +nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual +characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed +easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite +G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was +soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! + + To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) + Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight +'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that +the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough, +that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' +hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous... + + Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting +hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic +hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization +catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic +developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be +careful with. + + Astrolite A/A-1-5 +Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with +hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has +a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. + + Misc. info +You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens +though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be +able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. + + + Sodium Chlorate Formulas + +Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a +substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find +sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used +in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. + + Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder + +65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top. + + Rocket Fuel +6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement. + + Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) + +50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand), +10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur + +You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. + + Incendiary Mixture +55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur + + Impact Mixture +50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate + +Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when +mix- ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. + + Filler explosive +85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder + + Nitromethane formulas +I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite. + +Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139 +flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f + +Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. +Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, +fats, etc. + +To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: + +1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline + +Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. + + Nitromethane 'solid' explosives +2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) + +soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is +supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, +and has 30% more brilliance. + + The Firey Explosive Pen Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us + + Materials Needed Here's a GREAT little trick to play on + 1] One Ball Point `Click` pen your best fiend (no thats not a typo) at + 2] Gun Powder skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a + 3] 8 or 10 match heads friend! + 4] 1 Match stick + 5] a sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2") + +1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top. +2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little + parts and the ink fill was. +3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker. +4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on + the inside on the sand paper. +5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where + the ball point comes out. +6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is + to keep the powder from spilling. + +The Finished pen should look like this: + + Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \ + | | + \ | | + \ _________________|____________________|________ + <_______________________________|_______________|=== + +call the RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs' at (xxx) xxx-xxxx + + + MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! By Phucked Agent! + +Materials: + +1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off switch + + It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this one +or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces! + +1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up. +2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord +3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!) +4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching +the Hot-spot contact. +5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off! +6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket. +7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!! + +Downloaded From P-80 International Information Systems 304-744-2253 diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom13.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom13.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..078fe3c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom13.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5539 @@ +From: umcormi5@ccu.umanitoba.ca (John Cormier) +Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics +Subject: This is TBBOM ver 1.3 +Keywords: boom TBBOM pyro bombs +Message-ID: +Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1992 21:18:35 GMT +Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada +Lines: 5529 + +THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF 1.3 10-06-91 [REPLACES TBBOM12.ZIP/ TBBOM12.TXT] + +Copyright 10/06/91 by CHAOS Indus. All Rights Reserved with 3 exceptions: + + UNLIMITED Distribution in cybernetic media of an UNMODIFIED copy of +this document is allowed, with the following exceptions: + + 1. If a FEE is charged for access to this file or for + downloading in general , the authors must receive 25% of such + fee or $19.95, whichever is greater. + 2. This document may NOT be distributed via COMPUSERVE. + 3. Users are allowed to make no more than two (2) complete and + unmodified hardcopy versions of this file for personal use. + + If you did NOT receive this file in the form of a 98K ZIP file, it is +likely that you do not have a complete copy. To obtain one, send E-mail to the +addresses mentioned below. Fine bound softcover versions of this document will +be made available in late winter 1991. To get one of this limited signed and +numbered edition, send $19.95 + 5.50 S&H to: + + BOX 438, 71 E. 32nd St. Chicago, IL 60616 + +Make all checks and money orders payable to: LASERSCRIBE, INC. + + + +Preface + +10/5/91- Editing of the file is assumed by Vlad Tepes. Plans are currently +being made to convert the character graphics to bitmaps, as well as plans for +eventual hardcopy distribution. Updates will be distributed on the RIPCO BBS +at (312) 528-5020 and over the USENET via the rec.pyrotechnics newsgroup. + + By version 1.5 I hope to have .GIF files to replace the current character +graphics, and to have removed all duplicate entries. + +Note from the Editor: + + To make suggestions, corrections, or to + submit new information, send mail to: + to DAVID RICHARDS on the RIPCO BBS, or: + cshawk_pro38@iitvax.iit.edu + cshawk_pro38@iitvax.bitnet + +Please refer to any items by section number or EXACT section heading. + + +Note from the author: + + Remember, the First Amendment is not a shield. Care must be taken to ensure +that no law is broken when information is gained or divulged. I have read +every word of this file, and swear that no article of this document is illegal +in any way. + + + REVISION HISTORY + +1987-1989 Compilation of original file +Early 1990 Original file lost in crash +August 8, 1990 File reborn as The Compleat Terrorist Today, August 8th, + 1990, at 1 AM, I found a copy of The Terrorist's Handbook on + a BBS, and recombined it with some other G-files. +March 31, 1991 In February, I had a major loss of data, but regained TCT + from a local BBS. I did some cosmetic work and killed some + redundancies, and renamed the file to TBBOM. Total file size + is now about 172 printed pages. (You may wish to print this + file out and bind it) +April 12, 1991 File revised by Vlad Tepes on Ripco II. Some deletions and + many valuable additions. I (The Editor) felt that the file + should have version numbers, so, in light of the additions by + Vlad Tepes, the first volume number is 1.1. +July 29, 1991 Revisions and addenda by Vlad Tepes. A revision is a change + in the information (The original text is immediately followed + by the new information) and an addendum refers to new + information. +October 6, 1991 Vlad Tepes assumes the job of co-author/editor. A few + neccessary deletions are made, as well as minor cosmetic + changes and additions. + + +begin "THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF" + +PART 1 - The Terrorist's Handbook - Self explanatory. + + THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK + +1.0 INTRODUCTION + + Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is proud to present this revised edition of The +Terrorist's Handbook. First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos +Industries assumes no responsibilities for any use of the information +presented in this publication. The purpose of this is to show the many +techniques and methods used by those people in this and other countries who +employ terror as a means to acheive political and social goals. The techniques +described here may be found in public libraries, and can often be carried out +by a terrorist with minimal resources. The processes and techniques herein +SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH +COULD RESULT FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS +PUBLICATION. ALTHOUGH ALL EFFORTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO INSURE ACCURACY THIS IS +MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! + +We feel that it is important that everyone has some idea of just how easy it +is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is the justification for +the existence of this publication. + +1.1 Table of Contents + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + +2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS +2.01 ........ Black Powder +2.02 ........ Pyrodex +2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder +2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder +2.05 ........ Flash Powder +2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS +2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks +2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY +2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS +2.31 ........ Nitric Acid +2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid +2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES +3.01 ........ Explosive Theory +3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES +3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals +3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate +3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine +3.14 ........ Picrates +3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.21 ........ Black Powder +3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose +3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures +3.24 ........ Perchlorates +3.25 ........ Flash Powder +3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) +3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.33 ........ ANFOS +3.34 ........ T.N.T. +3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate +3.36 ........ Dynamite +3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives +3.38 ........ Picric Acid +3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) +3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride +3.41 ........ Lead Azide +3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" +3.51 ........ Thermite +3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails +3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle +3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives +3.6 ......... Dry Ice +4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES +4.1 ....... SAFETY +4.11 ........ How Not To Get Killed +4.12 ........ Guidelines For Production +4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES +4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition +4.22 ........ Impact Ignition +4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition +4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition +4.241 ....... Mercury Switches +4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches +4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators +4.3 ....... DELAYS +4.31 ........ Fuse Delays +4.32 ........ Timer Delays +4.33 ........ Chemical Delays +4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS +4.41 ........ Paper Containers +4.42 ........ Metal Containers +4.43 ........ Glass Containers +4.44 ........ Plastic Containers +4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES +4.51 ........ Shaped Charges +4.52 ........ Tube Explosives +4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions +4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs +4.55 ........ Book Bombs +4.56 ........ Phone Bombs +5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS +5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) +5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition +5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition +5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition +5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) +5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition +5.22 ........ Shotguns +5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) +5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition +5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition +6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS +6.1 ....... ROCKETS +6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb +6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb +6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs +6.2 ........ CANNONS +6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon +6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon +6.23 ........ Reinforced Pipe Cannon +7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA +7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs +7.2 ......... Colored Flames +7.3 ......... Tear Gas +7.4 ......... Fireworks +7.41 ........ Firecrackers +7.42 ........ Skyrockets +7.43 ........ Roman Candles +8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION +9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS +10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY +11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + +2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS + + Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or +more pharmacies. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit +in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know +something about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for +example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with +each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black +powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade +of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the +smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. + + +2.01 BLACK POWDER + + Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the +smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely +important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a +confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. +The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual +bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning +powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are +listed below: + + GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN + ÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles + FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles + FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers + + The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more +surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades +also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black +powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the +grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of +powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited +accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb +moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a plastic spoon and +a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply +pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or +circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine +as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one +wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to +fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder, +since anyone can own black powder firearms in the United States. + + +2.02 PYRODEX + + Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes +in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound +container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black +powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, +and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not +be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to +absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the +same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and +dried. + + +2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER + + One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is +the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are +composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a +fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube +length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, +the gray fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. +This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is +exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain in +the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a +plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This +should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be +crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from +1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the +more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per +package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in +stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized +for their explosive powder. + +2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER + + Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle +standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be +referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Smokeless gunpowder is made +by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some +other cellulose material. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then +reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder, +the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large +and small grained smokeless powder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder +when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with +more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding +process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for +smokeless powder. owder costs about $9.00 per pound. In most states any +citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently +few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now ID checks in +many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't +subject to such checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by mail +order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT regulations on packaging. + + +2.05 FLASH POWDER + + Flash powder is a mixture of powdered aluminum metal and various +oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated +with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is +sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very +finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The +fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. + + It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot +white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. +It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. Flash powder is often +made with aluminum and/or magnesium. Zirconium metal is the main ingredient in +flash BULBS, but is too expensive to be used in most flash powder mixtures. + + +2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a +commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite +with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is +touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation +will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high +explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro- +glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold- +Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist +of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium +nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, +remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, +airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb +water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers. + + +2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS + + The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section +deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. +Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, +and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab +buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most +of the labs will still be unlocked. + + +2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS + + If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most +effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are +unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these +methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks. + +These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, +but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule +here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several +devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental +tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin +pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all +these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the +latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is +done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing +the latch back into the door. + +Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door +closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from +being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate +of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently +far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be +slipped. + +(Ill. 2.11) ___ + | } < + Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger + second |___} < + finger + +Some methods for getting through locked doors are: + + 1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the + frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to + the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed + with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position + horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it + out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after + shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of + forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, + and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards. + 2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding + them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely + innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they + work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but + then why bother to slip the lock at all? + 3) Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far + enough to slip. + 4) If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or + replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so + that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If + you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make + it much easier to pick. + 5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door + opens outward), remove the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with + welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its + effectiveness. + 6) If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, + break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger + retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g., + Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially, + yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or + screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the + door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to + attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/.... + 7) Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things + in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical + resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that + everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a + tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a + wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for + better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can + get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with + a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a + micrometer works best: keys made from mic measurements are more likely + to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us + tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that + works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble + it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed. + 8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have + simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be + consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small + screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply + a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the + screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With + practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins + will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the + top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up, + additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in + conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older + or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the + cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if + their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins + to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it + generally takes a *lot* of patience. + 9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take + breaks. Make the most of your opportunities. + 10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes + anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to + look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and + normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that + they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups + at 3 AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's + aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually + *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you + do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any + theft or break-ins reported there the next day... + 11) Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a + building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys + are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places + that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in + each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those + places you're *really* curious about. + 12) Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the + lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or + similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.) + + +2.11.1 SLIPPING A LOCK + + The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It +is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent +as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls +nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs, +etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb +is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't +leave home without one. + + (Ill. 2.11.1 #1) + +The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that +looks like this: + ________________________________________ + /________________________________________| + | | + | | L-shaped + | | + | | + |_| + +(Ill. 2.11.1 #2) + _____________________________ + / ___________________________| + | | + | | J-shaped + | | + | |________ + \________| + +(Ill. 2.11.1 #3) + _____________________ + / ___________________| + | | + | | + | | U-shaped + | | + | |____________________ + \____________________| + + +We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities +have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At +most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal +charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are +particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks +that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.] + +we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are +various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For +instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any +key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least +don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too +much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey. + + +2.11.2 OPENING MASTER "WARDED" LOCKS (by Vlad Tepes) + +These are the lock with the keys that look like this: + +(Ill. 2.11.2 #1) + + _ _ + / \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \ + \_/ [] [] [] [] + +Just file the key down so it looks like this: + +(Ill. 2.11.2 #2) + _ _ + / \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~ + \_/ [] + +Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and +down, turning as you pass each block, to find the internal lever that will +release the latch. It's possible that some of the newer locks have more than +one lever, which makes the process much more difficult. + + +2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY + + Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and +drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous +compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some +money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. + +Chemical Used In Available at +________ _______ ____________ + +alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores + solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores + +ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven + +ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, +nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores + +nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores + poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops (The Alley at + Belmont/Clark, Chgo) + +magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores + +lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores + +mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores + +mercury mercury thermometers supermarkets, + hardware stores + +sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores + +glycerine pharmacies/drug stores + +sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store + +charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets + gardening stores + +sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store + +cellulose (cotton) first aid drug + medical supply stores + +strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, + +fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, + +bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, + +potassium permanganate water purification purification plants + +hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores +methenamine (camping) + +nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops + plates photography stores + +Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO + +sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores + (VERY impure) for cutting torches + + + ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen +by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A +desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. + + & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form +that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure +form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be +expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. + + +2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS + + While many chemicals are not easily available in their pure form, it +is sometimes possible for the home chemist to purify more easily available +sources of impure forms of desired chemicals. + + +2.31 NITRIC ACID + + There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for +explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once +again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! + + Materials: Equipment: + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source + potassium nitrate + retort + distilled water + ice bath + concentrated + sulfuric acid stirring rod + + collecting flask with stopper + +1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. + +2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium +nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, +carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. + +3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the +collecting flask in the ice bath. + +4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid +begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric +acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, +or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too +strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can +result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may +explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away +from it. + + Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, +simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur +and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to +dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter +the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the +liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are +insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, +potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. + +2.32 SULFURIC ACID + + Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or +industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car +battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of +a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably +be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, +either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can +also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster +than clean motor oil. + + +2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. +It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice +bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, +ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one +would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water +and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine +powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight +container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals +formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the +remaining water. + + +3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES + + Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE +ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS +TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT +OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. + + These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could +conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually +scaled-down industrial procedures. + +3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY + + An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, +undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that +is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down +into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original +piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air +are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed +greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains +the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: +high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and +primers, which may do both. + + High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order +explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes +through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart +the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate +approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In +a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the +shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to +produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of +high order explosives. + + Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. +when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and +gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under +pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as +gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and +hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; +they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in +unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are +good examples of low order explosives. + + Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as +mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are +usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low +explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that +they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are +confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a +shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to +decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are +also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a +bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer. + +3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES + + Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here, +only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium +triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no +light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even +the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. + + +3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS + + Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals +that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they +are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such +crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks +across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps +and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, +or heated. Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The +pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should +be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is +heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. +Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will +usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a +solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent +brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, +since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things +there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for +about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. While +such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could +utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of +them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a +few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be +seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. + + Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner: + + Materials Equipment + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + iodine crystals funnel and filter paper + paper towels + clear ammonia + (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars + for the suicidal) + +1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars + must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. + +2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. + +3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the + funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in + every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a + semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with + one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place + the cone into the funnel. + +4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the + solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. + +5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar + to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. + +6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, + and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure + that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they + could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into + eight pieces of about the same size. + +7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of + duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape + together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. + Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and + store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of + about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can + be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process + which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. + One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight + containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place + them where they will be stepped on or crushed. + + +3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE + + Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating +compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of +infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the +fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably +use the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + 5 g mercury glass stirring rod + + 35 ml concentrated 100 ml beaker (2) + nitric acid + + ethyl alcohol (30 ml) adjustable heat source + + distilled water blue litmus paper + + funnel and filter paper + + Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make +mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + + Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be +hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other +less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are +available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should +be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury +vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a +good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not +get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. + +1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, + using the glass rod. + +2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the + solution turns green and boils. + +3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and + carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or + brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. + +4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that + the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the + distilled water to the solution. + +5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid + solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and + toxic. + +6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess + acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are + neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches + the wet crystals + +7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from + any explosive or flammable material. + + This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury +cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of +ethanol to every one volume of mercury. + + +3.13 NITROGLYCERINE + + Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the +most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. +Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to +make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by +the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is +converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to +make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: + + MATERIAL EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + distilled water eye-dropper + + table salt 100 ml beaker + + sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) + + concentrated nitric ice bath container + acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) + + concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer + acid (39 ml) + + glycerine blue litmus paper + + +1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. + +2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about + a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium + bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water + so that some remains undissolved. + +3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and + adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall + temperature. + +4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of + concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker + will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow + into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a + large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of + the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less. + +5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add + the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two + acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a + good idea to start another ice bath to do this. + +6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one + drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where + the mixed acids and glycerine meet. + + DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF + THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, WATCH OUT !! + + The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will +immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of +glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any +explosive in small quantities. + +7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, + adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution + in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the + nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the + concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. + +8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 + degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of + nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in + step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and + the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as + much of the acid- water solution as possible without disturbing the + nitroglycerine. + +9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it + into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate + much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less + likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine + with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if + necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. + +10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean + container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far + away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine + can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool + place. + + +3.14 PICRATES + + Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or +trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since +they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid +with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating +the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or +produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of +a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is +impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high +explosive. + +3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores +and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store +owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such +an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order +explosives. + +3.21 BLACK POWDER + + First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first +used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to +make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is +converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine +burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by +static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be +made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could +manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium clay grinding bowl + nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder + + or or + + sodium wooden salad bowl + nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon + + sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) + + charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) + + distilled water coffee pot or heat source + + + +1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding + bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or + sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. + +2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a +separate plastic bag. + +3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, + and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. + +4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium +nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no +more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. + +5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. + Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too + hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water. + +6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe + container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never + store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate + static electricity. + + +3.22 NITROCELLULOSE + + Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more +stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It +also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. +Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following +procedure: + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers + + concentrated funnel and filter paper + nitric acid + blue litmus paper + concentrated + sulfuric acid + + distilled water + + + +1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 +cc of concentrated nitric acid. + +2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 +minutes. + +3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to +wash it in. + +4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. + +5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to +be dried and stored. + +3.22.1 PRODUCING CELLULOSE NITRATE (From andrew at CMU) + + I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I +didn't have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At first +I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold +soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated, cheap +and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 and a +little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so little +water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered +concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I +believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool +or cotton cloth. + + Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with +nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing +the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled water. +I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?) When +that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water quenched +the runaway reaction of cellulose. + +The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned +into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether. + + WARNINGS + + All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When +it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all +manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in the +process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will happily +blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply. Not for the +novice. + + Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if it isn't stablized. The +decomposition is auto- catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if +the material is kept confined over time. The process is much faster if the +material is not washed well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers +such as diphenyl amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO +CONTACT WITH NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture +the small amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They +therefore inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case. + +Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away +with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it. + +3.22.2 Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by: + +1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is + recycled. + +2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water. + +3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water. + + If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, +then rinsed in fresh water. + + The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the +nitration will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced. + + There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is +useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not +explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed +to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed. + +(Ill. 3.22.2) + + + CH OH CH ONO + | 2 | 2 2 + | | + C-----O HNO C-----O + /H \ 3 /H \ + -CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O- + \H H/ H SO \H H/ + C-----C 2 4 C-----C + | | | | + OH OH ONO ONO + 2 2 + + CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE + + +3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES + + There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be +produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective +and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working +fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each +compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be +given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: + +oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ +potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact + sensitive; unstable + +potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; + charcoal 15% unstable + +potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely + magnesium or unstable! + aluminum dust 25% + +potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable + aluminum dust 33% + +sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable + sulfur 5% burn rate + +potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before + ignition depends +WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size + +potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable + +potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable + magnesium or + aluminum dust 20% + +potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? + +potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is + sulfur 10% black powder! + +potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot + or magnesium 40% + + + Oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ +potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- + sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches + +ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for + and small amount of space shuttle + iron oxide + +potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% + +potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder + sulfur 20% + +barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate +potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder + +barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate + aluminum dust 5% flash powder + +potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly + magnesium or unstable + aluminum dust 25% + +potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable +calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive + +potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; + aluminum or ignites if + magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! + +potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable + sulfur 10% +================================================================================ + +NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium +perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. + + The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns +AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of +burning. + + As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures +that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), +different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity +of the mixture. + +3.24 PERCHLORATES + + As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid +will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or +sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that +can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or +sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or +potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be treated +with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react +explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium +hydroxide are ideal. + +3.25 FLASH POWDER (By Dr. Tiel) + +Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to produce +your own flash powder: + +(1) Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc) separately in a + clean vessel. + +(2) NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition. + +(3) Mix the composition on a large paper sheet, by rolling the composition + back and forth. + +(4) Do not store flash compositions, especially any containing Mg. + +(5) Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the power + of such mixtures. + + KNO3 50% (by weight) + Mg 50% + + It is very important to have the KNO3 very dry, if evolution of ammonia is +observed then the KNO3 has water in it. Very pure and dry KNO3 is needed. + + KClO3 with Mg or Al metal powders works very well. Many hands, faces and +lives have been lost with such compositions. + +KMnO4 with Mg or Al is also an extremely powerful flash composition. + +KClO4 with Al is generally found in comercial fireworks, this does not +mean that it is safe, it is a little safer than KClO3 above. + +K2Cr2O7 can also be used as an oxidizer for flash powder. + +The finer the oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more powerful the +explosive. This of course will also increase the sensetivity of the flash +powder. + +For a quick flash small quantities can be burnt in the open. +Larger quantities (50g or more) ignited in the open can detonate, they do not +need a container to do so. + +NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate. + +Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products +are considered. Excess metal powders are generally used. This excess +burns with atmospheric oxygen. + +4 KNO3 + 10 Mg --> 2 K2O + 2 N2 + 10 MgO + energy + +KClO3 + 2 Al --> KCl + Al2O3 + energy + +3 KClO4 + 8 Al --> 3 KCl + 4 Al2O3 + energy + +6 KMnO4 + 14 Al --> 3 K2O + 7 Al2O3 + 6 Mn + energy + +Make Black Powder first if you have never worked with pyrotechnic +materials, then think about this stuff. + + Dr. Van Tiel- Ph.D. Chemistry + + +Potassium perchlorate is a lot safer than sodium/potassium chlorate. + +3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + High order explosives can be made in the home without too much +difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high +explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is +made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) +molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a +material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the +nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in +a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based +explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, +several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. + +3.31 R.D.X. + + R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with +plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is +because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to +detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too +severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, +but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. + +(Ill. 3.31) NO + 2 + | + N + / \ RDX MOLECULE + / \ + H C H C + / 2 2 + / | + O N N--NO + 2 \ / 2 + \ / + \ / + CH + 2 + + R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It +is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the +possible exception of ammonium nitrate. + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + hexamine 500 ml beaker + or + methenamine glass stirring rod + fuel tablets (50 g) + funnel and filter paper + concentrated + nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container (plastic bucket) + + distilled water centigrade thermometer + + table salt blue litmus paper + + ice ammonium nitrate + + +1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully + pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. + +2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts + of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and + it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could + result. Stir the mixture. + +3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more + ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, + ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold + when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the + temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes + +4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, + and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and + dispose of the corrosive liquid. + +5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter + the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and + 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more + stable and safe. + +6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely + using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. + +7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% + mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic + bag. This is one way to desensitize the explosive. + +8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. + it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. + +9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it + should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since + ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium + nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize + the R.D.X. + +10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a + density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. + +3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the haphazard +method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since +it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to +shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a +drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium +nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather +powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The +diagram below will explain. + +(Ill. 3.32) + _________________________________________ + | |__ | + ________|_ | | + | | T.N.T. | ammonium nitrate | + |primer |booster | + | + |________| | fuel oil | + | __| | + |_______|_______________________________| + + The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending +a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. + + +3.33 ANFOS + + ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO +solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to +pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to +detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by +weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps +the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also +requires a large shockwave to set it off. + + +3.33.1 About ANFO (From Dean S.) + + Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are +mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful +commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact that it is +cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is +dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To +keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck, +which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to most of +the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a dye of +some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to +distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer. + + ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive +to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. +Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters +include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, +dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. The +need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water +susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the atmosphere, and +becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with +borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low +density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no good, +and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low. Generally, +the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective. +ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it is places, +raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds to the cost, +and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some commercial, +cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises power +considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive. + + Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of +ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is +extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends a +AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More oil +makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and excess +fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the mixture is oxygen +poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as the +porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with various +materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being +absorbed. + + Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, +either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus, a +pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather +than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong +casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite +well. So will big piles. Thats how the explosive potential was discovered: a +small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the +cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big bang. +A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with +a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive +mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture. This is +what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The military +literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it is important +to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more powerful than +commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability, and thus a +strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They also tend to +go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then hey, who +doesn't.... + + Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly +useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or +"Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This is a +$60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus +demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. + + Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the +manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture +and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to +manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those +who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least +in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no +criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need +a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities +of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion +to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old +folks homes, okay. + + D. S.- Civil Engineer at large. + + +3.34 T.N.T. + + T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high +explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known +high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is +the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well +known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is +designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the +product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one +step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very +strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very +strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, +and it is filtered. + + +3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE + + Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be +obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of +vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the +material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, +however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making +such an explosive is outlined below: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag + (9 parts, by volume) + + petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl + (vaseline) or + (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon + +1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, + until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is + powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. + +2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the + plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. + put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. + +3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium + chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, + add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. + +4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to + greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, + is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. + + +3.36 DYNAMITE + + The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. +Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was +made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided +individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) +would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various +materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large +weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate +could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase +the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. + +3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES + + Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All +that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated +nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 +ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. +Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. +Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are +more readily detonated. + + +3.38 PICRIC ACID + + Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military +explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less +sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly +simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and +nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college +chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric +acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, +such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer +form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant +would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric +acid. + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask + + concentrated adjustable heat source + sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) + 1000 ml beaker + concentrated nitric or other container + acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in + + distilled water filter paper + and funnel + + glass stirring rod + + +1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml + of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. + +2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and + bring the water to a gentle boil. + +3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling + water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty + minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool + for about five minutes. + +4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to + cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section + 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in + the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, + stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should + occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of + the ice bath. + +5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more + tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, + and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. + +6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice + bath until it is cold. + +7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution + through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of + it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. + +8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the + filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. + +9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. + +10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will + react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode + spontaneously. + + +3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE + + Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. +It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than +that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric +acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when +placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear +household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into +a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add +clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. +The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate. + + +3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE + + Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow +liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or +when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to +produce. + +1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do + not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains + undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. + +2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing + hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a + stopper and glass pipe. + +3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the + beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers + together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow + droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down + to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. + + Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate +solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires timing +and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. + + The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently +heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes +from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating +flask in another flask that contains water. + +4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, + since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. + + +3.41 LEAD AZIDE + + Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other +explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. +It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily +detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to +produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. + + By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, +the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers +together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, +until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker +stops forming. + + Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The +precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead +acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. +Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. + +3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" + + The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be +used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented +here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. + +3.51 THERMITE + + Thermite is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous +amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not +react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both +finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the +oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that +produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat +energy produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but +when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around. + + MATERIALS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + powdered aluminum (10 g) powdered iron oxide (10 g) + +1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermite. + Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as + homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% + by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts. + + +2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of + potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric + acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section + 4.33. The other method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. + Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the + mixture can be ignited. + + +3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS + + First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now +exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, +and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, +such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter +fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large +glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the +flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in +the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. + + Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave +a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the +bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on +impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the +site of impact, and burst into flame. + +Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more +volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture +such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, +and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this +must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown + + +3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE + + The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather +than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best +a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the +very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. +When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays +onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck +by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The +chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced +to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate 12 oz.glass bottle + (2 teaspoons) + + sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside + + conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges + + gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels + + glass or plastic cup and spoon + +1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure + that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid + eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a + cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. + +2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. + +3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. + Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on + the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside + to dry. + +4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of + sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, + or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. + +5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold + the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium + chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to + dry. + +6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing + the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the + bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle + in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. + +7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct + liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution + on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, + simply throw it at any hard surface. + +8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH + COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM + CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. + +9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, + and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should + immediately burst into a white flame. + + +3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES + + Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane +stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To +make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would +be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or +other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, +and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and +expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. + + In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized +fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of +the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the +expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with +gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is +less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed +of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective +way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of +the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal +should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, +or any other flammable gas will do nicely. + + During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only +to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar +to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the +fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to +detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to +burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation. + + Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into +fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed in +a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding +rooms, rendering it structurally unsound. + + +3.6 Fun with dry ice... LOTS of fun with dry ice. (from the Usenet.) + + There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is +as follows: + +Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of +Dry Ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a quantity of water. + + Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and +temperature of the bottle the bomb will go off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. +Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go often in 3-7 minutes if +dropped into a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours in open air. + + The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles +and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as do the 2-liters, however glass +bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce dangerous shrapnel. + + Remember, these are LOUD! Dorian, a classmate of mine, set up 10 bottles +in a nearby park without adding water. After the first two went off (there +was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent the +next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's +all around them... + +USES FOR DRY ICE + +Time Bombs: + +1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans + that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister + would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair + amount of effort to open). + Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite + sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back. + Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention + is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere + within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then leave. + Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a + loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when the CO2 + pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid. + In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will proabably + never figure out what made the noise. + +2. Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many + chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the + cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute + (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying water + everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle. + +More things to do with Dry Ice: + + Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it +into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really impressive if the +water is warm enough + + "Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..." + "You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you KEEP +IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire." + + Editor's Note: Dry ice can be a lot of fun, but be forewarned: + + Using anything but plastic to contain dry ice bombs is suicidal. Dry ice +is more dangerous than TNT, because it's extremely unpredictable. Even a +2-liter bottle can produce some nasty shrapnel: One source tells me that he +caused an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that destroyed a metal garbage can. +In addition, it is rumored that several kids have been killed by shards of +glass resulting from the use of a glass bottle. For some reason, dry ice bombs +have become very popular in the state of Utah. As a result, dry ice bombs have +been classified as infernal devices, and possession is a criminal offense. + + +4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES + + Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to +apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to +vandalism, to assassination. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE +CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, +FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive +would take would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed +to do whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his +bomb with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the +device, and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would +be necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it +being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and +build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next +section. + +4.1 SAFETY + + There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak +in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. + + +4.11 HOW NOT TO GET KILLED (Ways to avoid scoring an "Own Goal") + + An "own goal" is the death of a person on your side from one of +your own devices. It is obvious that these should be avoided at all +costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to +err on the side of caution. + + BASIC SAFETY RULES + +1) DON'T SMOKE! (don't laugh- an errant cigarette wiped out the Weathermen) +2) GRIND ALL INGREDIENTS SEPERATELY. It's suprising how friction sensitive + some supposedly "safe" explosives really are. +3) ALLOW for a 20% margin of error- Just because the AVERAGE burning rate of a + fuse is 30 secs/foot, don't depend on the 5 inches sticking out of your + pipe bomb to take exactly 2.5 minutes. +4) OVERESTIMATE THE RANGE OF YOUR SHRAPNEL. The cap from a pipe bomb can + oftentravel a block or more at high velocities before coming to rest- If + you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can kill you. +5) When mixing sensitive compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of + static electricity. Mix the ingredients by the method below: + +4.12 HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS + + The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as +the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do: + +Ingredients: + +1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does + not use staples) + +The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound. + +1) Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in + two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet. +2) Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders + to roll towards the middle of the sheet. +3) By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth + in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill + from either of the loose ends. +4) Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If + it must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work + nicely) and store away from people, houses, and valuable items. + +4.2 IGNITION DEVICES + + There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic +"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive +mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical +detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are +more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an +electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being +caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to +hide. + +4.21 FUSE IGNITION + + The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite +type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse +in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse +is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It +is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 +for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe +bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a +match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the +grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade +ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, +since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare +a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still +retains its simplicity. One such method is described below: + + + MATERIALS + _________ + strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape + waterproof fuse + +1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 + inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the + start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch + when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of + fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This + will be shown below: + + Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of + combustion is 20 seconds. + + 20 seconds / 8 inches = 2.5 seconds per inch. + + If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired + time by the number of seconds per inch: + + 10 seconds / 2.5 seconds per inch = 4 inches + +NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, + AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, + AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! + +2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is + to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut + it off. + +3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not + pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard + base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to + make a second igniter. + +4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches + touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure + not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by + pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to + move. + +5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, + making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker + faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the + matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the + matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. + +(Ill. 4.21) + _____________________ + \ / + \ / ------ match book cover + \ / + | M|f|M ---|------- match head + | A|u|A | + | T|s|T | + | C|e|C | + |tapeH|.|Htape| + | |f| | + |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper + |#####|s|#####| + \ |e| / + \ |.| / + \ |f| / + \ |u| / + |ta|s|pe| + |ta|e|pe| + |.| + |f| + |u| + |s| + |e| + |.| + |_| + + The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. +The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the +matcheads when the match book is pulled. + +6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the + striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. + In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to + the burning match heads. + + +4.21.1 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: + + Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work +with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die +for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the +right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. + + To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 +teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use +cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together +until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn +through very easily. + + Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and +hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a +circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with +the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. +Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through +smoothly in one long motion. + + To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 +degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse +must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. +Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even +dry completely at room temperatures. + +Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight +container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use +a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled +out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be +extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. + + Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the +home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of +boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all +cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, +it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of +the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder +or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the +slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. + + A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of +boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. +The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a +firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry. + + +4.21.2 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK + + Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at +a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can +test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is +removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some +sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at +250 degrees. + + It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning +brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The +melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up +to cool and harden. + + It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. +These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a +moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are +great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. +Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing +unpredictable burning times. + + +4.22 IMPACT IGNITION + + Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous +terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it +must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being +transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a +removable impact initiator. + + The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made +initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such +primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a +cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are +also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package +of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the +way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. +A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: + +(Ill. 4.22) + ________________ + | | + _ | | + | | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| + _______| |^^^^^^^| + | ___________| + | | +no. 11 |_______| +percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing + cap : + here |__________ nipple onto bomb + |____ | + | |^^^^^^^^^| + |_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| + | | + |_________________| + + + When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into +whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed +into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed +on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount +before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The +only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must +strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a +small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when +thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb +with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which +end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the +person carrying the bomb is bumped hard. + + +4.22.1 MAGICUBE IGNITOR + + A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact iniator can be produced from the +common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic +cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has +a small metal rod holding it in place. + + CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently +upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB. + + Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be +effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the +bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the +plastic can be easily peeled away. + + The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based +smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thich glue-like paste. +Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal +rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely +covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the +remainder then ignition should be very reliable. + + To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer +can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air +the appropriate end will hit the ground first. + + +4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION + + Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and +most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition +work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools +of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a +"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that +could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a +device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted +in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation +sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best +electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting +caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in +packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use +them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military +squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they +explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only +burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. +This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, +however, military explosive squibs which will do the job. + +Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, +which in turn, can set of a high order explosive. + + +4.23.1 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE (By Capt. Hack & GW) + + Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it +down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case +of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb +with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will +heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. + + +4.23.2 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE + + Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it +to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and +then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want +about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good +size wire to use. + Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. +Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. +place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the +powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. + The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else +except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the +powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under +on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. + The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. +A single flashlight battery will set this off. + +4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION + + Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of +mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of +switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person +who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it +explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed + +4.24.1 Mercury Switches + + Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal +conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room +temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two +electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's +nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to +explain a mercury switch. + +(Ill. 4.24.1) + ______________ + A / \ B + _____wire +______/_________ \ + \ ( Hg )| / + \ _(_Hg___)|___/ + | + | + wire - | + | + | + + When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both +contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in +its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can +touch both contacts in the horizontal position. + + If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only +touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury +does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This +type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a +swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the +switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt +the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both +contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or +squib in an explosive device. + + +4.24.2 Tripwire Switches + + A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly +invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and +by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. +If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a +tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips +of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between +them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire +can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between +the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When +the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current +to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, +which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the +contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to +explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, +since the spring also conducts electricity. + + +4.243 Radio Control Detonators + + In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled +detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be +several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it +explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with +radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could +possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money +involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such +an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is +visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. +Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach +the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, +or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the +rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the +contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times +with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he +controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the +device became a detonator). + +4.3 DELAYS + + A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set +up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost +quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the +different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be +sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it +does. + + +4.31 FUSE DELAYS + + It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for +ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average +cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine +rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn +quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less +likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or +draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the +ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the +cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of +delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance +to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes +burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all +the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing +the fuse for a device in the hole formed. + +(Ill 4.31) + + |=| + |=| ---------- filter + |=| + | | + | | + |o| ---------- hole for fuse + cigarette ------------ | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + |_| ---------- light this end + +4.31.1 IMPROVED CIGARETTE DELAY (By Atur {THE pyromaniac }) + + A variation on the standard cigarette display was invented by my good +friend Atur (THE Pyromaniac). Rather than inserting the fuse into the SIDE +of the cigarette (and risk splitting it) half of the filter is cut off, and a +small hole is punched THROUGH the remainder of the filter and into the +tobacco. + +(Ill. 4.31.1) + + --------------------------------- + |FIL|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco + fusefusefusefuse Tobacco Tobacco side view + |TER|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco + --------------------------------- + ___ + / \ + | o | filter end view + \___/ (artwork by The Author) + + + The fuse is inserted as far as possible into this hole, then taped or +glued in place, or the cigarette can be cut and punched ahead of time and +lit normally, then attached to the fuse at the scene. + + A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet +of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with +powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a +fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused +with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed +with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A +chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few +bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the +first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party +supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the +fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are +possible. + + +4.32 TIMER DELAYS + + Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who +wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location +and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if +it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By +simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and +using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. +The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an +hour is desired. + + The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set +for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that +in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By +removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a +squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. +All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, +connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic +watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the +watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a +timer could be extremely small. + + The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can +usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the +recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be +connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be +work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or +electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch +would not have to be stepped up. + + +4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS + + Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some +cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England. The +delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the +initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British +citizenry. + + If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped +with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, +then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil +to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be +open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is +forming does not break the container. + +(Ill. 4.33) + _ _ + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |_____________| | + | | | | + | | sulfuric | | + | | | | + | | acid | | + | | | |---------- aluminum foil + | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) + |_________________| + + + The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured +there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used +to ignite an explosive device in several ways. + +1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats + through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the + foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be + able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the + acid. + +2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid + drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium + chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, + or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some + potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this + mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite. + +3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. + + +4.331 MORE SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION + + Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so +they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting +supply. + + METHOD # 1 + Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl +alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately. + + METHOD # 2 + Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four +parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on +top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from +this. + + METHOD # 3 + Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium +peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right. +One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare. + + METHOD # 4 + Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated +nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. +When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame. + +4.4 EXPLOSIVE CASINGS + + This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a +complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which +are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. + + +4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS + + Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was +first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very +simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses +for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in +firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, +and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more +interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown +here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The +process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If +one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and +fold one corner so that it looks like this: + +(Ill 4.41) + ________________________________________________ + | |\ + | | \ + | | \ + |_____________________________________________|___\ + + and then fold it again so that it looks like this: + + ______________________________________________ + | /| + | / | + | / | + |________________________________________/___| + + A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, +pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the +quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. +A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful +not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it +should be taped together very tightly, since this will increase the strength +of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is +lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick +triangle, like the one shown below: + + +(Ill. 4.41) + ^ + / \ ----- securely tape all corners + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \____________________________ + /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse + + +4.42 METAL CONTAINERS + + The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained +explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match +heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- +tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills +the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause +enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode +the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and +the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. +Regular matches may still be ignited by friction, but it is far less likely +than with "strike-anywhere" matches. + + He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe. First, he would drill a +hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and +so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an +inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on +tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He +would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he +would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very +top, carefully pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and +pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it would not move +any further. + + Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue +paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads +of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which +might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled +bomb is shown in fig. 4.42 + +(Ill. 4.42) + ________ ________ + | _____|________________________________|_____ | + | |__________________________________________| | + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| + | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- + | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | |________|_________________________________| | + | |__________________________________________| | + |______| |______| + + endcap pipe endcap + w/ hole + + fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. + + The metal caps are VERY difficult to drill holes in, it is much easier to +drill a hole into the middle of the pipe (BEFORE FILLING IT!!!) and place the +fuse there. Lionel (a friend of mine) has had great success with this design. +After detonating one of these inside a cookie tin, he found the lid about 1/2 +block away, the sides of the tin blown out, and an impression of the pipe +(which was later found blown flat) threads and all on the bottom of the tin... +it seems that the welded seam gives out on most modern rolled pipes, however a +cast pipe (no seam) would produce more shrapnel (which may or may not be +desirable). + + This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he +did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece +of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. +A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without +tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it +will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of +copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. + +4.42.1 PIPE BOMBS FROM SOFT METAL PIPES + + First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making +sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be +folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should +be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be +inserted. + + Next, the bomb- builder would partially fill the casing with a low order +explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then +flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was +not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and +bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is +presented below: + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #1) + ________ + _______________________________________________/| | +| | o | | +|______________________________________________ | | + \_|______| + + fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #2) + ______ + ____________________________________________/ | | + | | | + | o | | + |___________________________________________ | | + \__|__| + + fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #3) + ____________ fuse hole + v + _______________________________ ______ + | \ |___ | + | \____| | + | ______| + | / + |_____________________________/ + + fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) + + +4.42.2 CARBON DIOXIDE "Pellet Gun" or Seltzer cartridges. + + A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low- +order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. +But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a +pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2 +cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning +fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called +"crater makers". + + From personal experience, I have found that a CO2 cartridge is easiest to +fill if you take a piece of paper and tape it around the opening to form a +sort of funnel: + +(Ill 4.42.2) + +A full \ / Use a punch or sharp philips (+) screwdriver to +cartridge \ / enlarge the pin-hole opening on a used cartridge. +can also be \ / +fun- @ It doesn't seem to be neccessary to seal the hole, + / \ but if you must do so, Epoxy and electrical tape +toss it into | | work quite well. +a lite fire | | +and it will (__) CONDENSATION may form inside a recently used +explode, and bottle- if you must use one right after emptying +the CO2 may it, heat it in a warm oven to dry it out. +extinguish the flames. + + A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermite incendiary +device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so +that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The +fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the +thermite . + +4.42.3 PRIMED EXPLOSIVE CASINGS + + + The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low- +order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the +latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller +low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order +explosive would probably be used. + +(Ill. 4.42.3) + _____________________________________ + | _ | + | / \ | + | High Explosive filler |LO ======= + | \_/ | + |____________________________________| + + + If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, +then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, +which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. + +4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS + + Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are +problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily +compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely +event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be +seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample +perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still +has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his +ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... + + Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a +demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal +detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill +the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly +in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. + +(Ill. 4.43) + ________________________ fuse + | + | + | + _____|_____ + | ___|___ | + | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; + | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap | > + | < | < | + | | | + | | + | | + | | screw cap on bottle + | | + | | + V_________V + + Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, +since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive +that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger +than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for +high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand +the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was +able to detonate. + +4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS + + Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since +they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping +can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones +used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with +plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not +detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by +heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be +glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used +as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a +drying agent works best in this type of device. + +(Ill. 4.44) || || + || || + ||\_____________/|| + || || + || epoxy || + ||_______________|| + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||** explosive **|| + ||***************|| + ||***********----------------------- fuse + ||***************|| + ||ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + || || + || epoxy || + || _____________ || + ||/ \|| + || || + || || + + + One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the +device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of +tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC +pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had +an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be +used in this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. + + In my experience, epoxy plugs work well, but epoxy is somewhat expensive. +One alternative is auto body filler, a grey paste which, when mixed with +hardener, forms into a rock-like mass which is stronger than most epoxy. The +only drawback is the body filler generates quite a bit of heat as it hardens, +which might be enough to set of a overly sensitive explosive. One benefit of +body filler is that it will hold it's shape quite well, and is ideal for +forming rocket nozzles and entire bomb casings. + + +4.44.1 FILM CANISTERS (By Bill) + +For a relatively low shrapnel explosion, I suggest pouring it into an empty +35mm film cannister. Poke a hole in the plastic lid for a fuse. These +goodies make an explosion audible a mile away easily. + +1) Poke the hole before putting the flash powder into the cannister. +2) Don't get any powder on the lip of the cannister. +3) Only use a very small quantity and work your way up to the desired + result. +4) Do not pack the powder, it works best loose. +5) Do not grind or rub the mixture - it is friction sensitive. +6) Use a long fuse. + + Bill + + +4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES + + The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person +who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this +information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. +Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a +minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost +always involve high- order explosives. + +4.51 SHAPED CHARGES + + A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the +explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used +to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of +pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order +explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL +EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! + + An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + +(Ill. 4.51) + + wire ________ _______ - wire + _ _________|_________|____________ + ^ | ________|_________|__________ | + | | | | | | | + | | | \ igniter / | | + | | | \_______/ | | + | | | priming charge | | + | | | (mercury fulminate) | | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | / \ | | + 8 inches high | | / \ | | + | | / high \ | | + | | | / explosive \ | | + | | | / charge \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch + | | | / \ | | thick steel + | | | / \ | | pipe + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | hole for | | | | hole for + | screw | | | | screw + V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ + |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| + + |<------- 8 inches -------->| + + If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would +direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the +opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in +the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A +device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a +powerful electromagnet. + + +4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES + + A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that +shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a +sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive +container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be +produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This +type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a +telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely +destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive +would look like this: + +(Ill. 4.52) + ||\____/|| + || epoxy|| + ||------|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||______|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || RDX || + ||*____*|| + ||*| s|*|| + ||*| q|*|| + ||*| u|*|| + ||*| i|*|| + ||*| b|*|| + ||*| b|*|| + ||*|__|*|| + ||__||__|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||--||--|| + || epoxy|| + || || || + ||/ || \|| + || || || + ||_______ + wire ______________ + |________ - wire ______________ + + + When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it +around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube +bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, +and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. + + +4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS + + If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small +particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion +similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The +tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, +pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and +ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would +push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized +particle explosion. + + If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable +substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or +other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be +extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon +jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the +charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If +this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would +surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to +accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. +Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary +that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a +low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the +flammable material. + + +4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS + + An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the +light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead +light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes +with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the +lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a +lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must +be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue +gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other +bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or +oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down +to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive +material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base, +it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the +bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the +bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a +working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into +the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much +success, since few people would search the room for a bomb without first +turning on the light. + + +4.55 BOOK BOMBS + + Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where +perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by +authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to +set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called +a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. + + Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the +hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, +large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a +bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place +where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb +can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First, +all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire +container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the bucket +with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of +the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled +to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the pages +of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be +thoroughly soaked. + + It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to +the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both +covers and clamping the pages together in a vise works best. When the pages +dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now +rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the +coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle +of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The +pages, when drilled out, should look like this: + +(Ill. 4.55) + ________________________ + | ____________________ | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |__________________| | + |______________________| + + (book covers omitted) + + This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. +After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled +variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever +timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from +rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio +control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is +taken to its destination. + + +4.56 PHONE BOMBS + + The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to +kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the +person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high +explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the +current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the +high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is +acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. + + Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's +leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section +3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is +surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. + + When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, +he will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow +through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a +phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the +tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the +device explodes... + +4.56.1 IMPROVED PHONE BOMB (from Dave R.) + + The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig the +device as follows: + + _________ FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL + /|-------|\ Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece, + ~ | | ~ (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive + @@@@@@@@ the full line power, not just the audio power to the earpiece) + @@@@@@@@@@ + @@@@@@@@@@ Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back + in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the + circuit to the detonator.... + + +5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS + + Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social +deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over +individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to +kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from +crossbows to shotguns. + + +5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS + + For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive +that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This +means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. + + +5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION + + Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is +extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter +to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum +piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire +segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates +upon impact, or with a fuse. + + All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and +diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube +with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to +about 1/2 an inch from the top. + + Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the +tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 +percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue or epoxy. + + Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and +make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and +glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: + +(Ill. 5.11) + ____________ +___|____________\____________________ +\ ---. +/__ ________________________________---` + |____________/ + + + When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap explodes, +igniting or detonating the explosive. + + +5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS + + The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A +blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or +poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is +not difficult. To acquire a blowgun, please contact the editor at one of the +addresses given in the introduction. + + Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, +such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill +capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores. Next, the capsule +would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury fulminate. +An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact +sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used. + + Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel +or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure +that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. + + Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the +tassel or cotton, and look something like this: + +(Ill. 5.12) + ____________________ + /mercury | \----------------------- + (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels + \________|___________/----------------------- + + + Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could +easily blow the back of your head off. + + +5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS + + A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble +about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be +lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the +relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the +wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. + + A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating +device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. + + Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted +with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to +make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did +not explode before it reached its intended target. + + Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber +blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they +must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. + + +5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS + + When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and +rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with +a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be +difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There +is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition +is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the +slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For +this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. + + +5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS + + If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her +handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive +explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, +and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole +in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of +an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in +the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed +exploding bullet is shown below. + +(Ill. 5.21) + _o_ ------------ drop of wax + /|*|\ + | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive + | |_| | + |_____| + + This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. + + In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing +"exploding bullets" by placing a drop of mercury in the nose of a bullet. +Through experimentation it has been found that this will not work. Mercury +reacts with lead to form a inert silvery compound. + + +5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS + + Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some +extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell +is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, +if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the +bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched +weapons. + + Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the +shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end +of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. + + Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. +This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect +4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it +must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel +back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the +dowel. + + Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire +the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are +possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: + +(Ill. 5.22) ____ + || | + || | + || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel + || | + ||__| + || | + || | ------- fuse + || | + || + || + || + || --------- dowel + || + || + || + || --------- insert this end into shotgun + || + || + + Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used- use of regular blank +ammunition may cause the device to land perilously close to the user. + + +5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS + + This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for +compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, +and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids +toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. + + +5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS + + A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or +pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber +of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a +muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 +caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made +that has a caliber of .177. + + Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to +ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, +since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when +struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown +at a hard surface at a great speed. + + Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are +inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard +surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as +that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, +and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: + +(Ill. 5.31) + _____ primers _______ + | | + | | + | | + V V + ______ ______ + | ________________________ |------------------- + | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or + | ________________________ |------------------- cotton + |_____ _____|------------------- + ^ + | + | + |_______ antenna tubing + + The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The +tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. +Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to +insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile +should be about 3/4 of an inch long. + + + +5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS + + A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at +close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be +adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in +section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or +smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one +would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition +primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 +cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. + + +6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS + + Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. +Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are +difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to +make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such +things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to +fear. + + +6.1 ROCKETS + + Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before +the myth of christ began. They were used for entertainment, in the form of +fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were +inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets +are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have +no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military +rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular +hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, +a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket +engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 +lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a +significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger +rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket +engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most +model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help +explain them. + +(Ill. 6.1) + _________________________________________________________ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing + \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| + _______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| + / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| + /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + casing + + + The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled +"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a +propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of +hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket +forward. + + After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is +ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that +has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, +white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be +seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. + + When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". +The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, +exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the +parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a +bomb... + + Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine +labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an +indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" +engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The +number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in +pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the +thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" +indicates a 3 second delay. + +NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum + dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. + The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. + + +6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB + + A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered +to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device +would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from +balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" +engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater +maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure +that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over +the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. +The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. + +(Ill. 6.11 #1) + + ____________ rocket engine + | _________ crater maker + | | + | | + V | + _______________________________V_ + |_______________________________| ______________________ + \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ + \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ + __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) + / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / + /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ + |_______________________________| + + thrust> - - - - - - + smoke> *** + ejection charge> :::: + + + Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket +engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge +Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such +as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. + + Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that +the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: + +(Ill. 6.11 #2) + + |\ + | \ + | \ + | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine + | \ + | \ + | \ + | | + | | + | | + leading edge | + -------> | + | | + | | trailing edge + | | <-------- + | | + | | + | | + | | + \_____/ + + + The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so +that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two +inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch +it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment +of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the +fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. + +(Ill. 6.11 #3) + | + fin | <------ fin + | | | + | | | + | __|__ | + V / \ V + ---------------| |--------------- + \_____/ + |o <----------- segment of plastic straw + | + | + | <------ fin + | + | + + By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a +launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is +simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic +straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one +illustated on the following page: + +(Ill. 6.11 #4) + ____ + / \ + | | + cut here _____ | + | | + | | + | / \ + V / \ + _________________/ \________________ + / \ + / \ + /____________________________________________\ + ^ + | + | + and here ______| + + + Bend wire to this shape: + +(Ill. 6.11 #5) + _______ insert into straw + | + | + | + V + ____________________________________________ + \ + \ + \ + \ + \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle + | + | + | + | + | + | <---------- put this end in ground + | + + +6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB + + Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model +rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in +multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of +such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection +charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an +"0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and +burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the +thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing +an overall loss of weight. + + The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as +travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed +somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket +to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. +This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving +the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the +rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: + +(Ill. 6.12) + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker + | | + | | + |___| + | | + | | + | | + | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine + /| 6 |\ + / | | | \ + / | 5 | \ + / |___| \ ---- fin + / /| |\ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | C | \ \ + | / | 6 | \ | + | / | | | \ | + | / | 0 | \ | + |/ |___| \| + | / \ | + \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin + | + | + | + | + C6-0 rocket engine + + The fuse is put in the bottom engine. + + Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it +a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the +fin area gets larger. + + + +6.2 CANNON + + The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th +century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, loaded, +and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, +otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the +barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, +if he/she had a small sum of money, and some patience. + + +6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON + + A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only +difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. +This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or +aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick +to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. + + If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile +can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such +a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very +smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. +Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or +tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the +crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two +teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by +ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. +Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. +If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will +not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: + +(Ill. 6.21 #1) + __________________ fuse hole + | + | + V + ________________________________________________________________ + | |_____________________________________________________________| + |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge + | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ + |_|______________________________________________________________| + + An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 +cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and +construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the +cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except +for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a +tissue paper packing wad. + +(Ill. 6.21 #2) + ___ + When the cannon is fired, it ( ) +will ignite the end of the |C | +fuse, and shoot the CO2 | M| +cartridge. The | | +explosive-filled cartridge | | +will explode in about three \ / +seconds, if all goes well. [] <--- taped fuse +Such a projectile would look [] +like this: [] + ! <--- Bare fuse (add matchheads) +6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON + +(Ill. 6.22) + ___ A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a + / \ normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A + | | rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket + | C | alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the + | M | initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is + | | moving will go further than one that is launched when it + | | is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal + |___| rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look + | E | like the image to the left. + | N | + | G | the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, + | I | but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection + | N | charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection + | E | charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb + |___| explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the + burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and + simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high + velocity. + + +6.23 REINFORCED PIPE CANNON (added by Loren) + +In high school, a friend and I built cannons and launched CO2 cartridges, etc, +etc. However, the design of the cannon is what I want to add here. + +It was made from plain steel water pipe, steel wire, and lead. + +Here is a cross section: + +(Ill. 6.23) + _______ + | | + | xxxxx_____________________________________________ 2" ID pipe + | |_________________________________________________ + | | .................... <- steel wire } + | | _____ } 3/4" ID pipe +this | | | xxx______________________________________}_________________ +wire | | | |__________________________________________________________ +holds | |....| | +it up |>|....| | +in the| | | |__________________________________________________________ +cooker| | | xxx________________________________________________________ + | | |____ } + | | ..................... } <- cast lead + | |_______________________________________________}_ + | | _____________________________________________ + | xxxxx + |_____| + + + We dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of firebrick. +Then we stood the assembled pipe and wire on end in the chimney, sitting on +some bricks. We then had a blowtorch heating up the chimney, so that the pipe +was red hot. Then we poured molten lead into the space between the pipes. If +the caps aren't screwed on real tight, some of the lead will leak out. If +that happens, turn off the blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and the +lead will stiffen and stop the leak. + + We used homemeade and commercial black powder, and slow smokeless shotgun +powder in this thing. After hundreds of shots we cut it up and there was no +evidence of cracks or swelling of the inner pipe. + + Loren + + +7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA + + There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of violence +might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large military +smoke bombs can be bought through ads in gun and military magazines. Also, +fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display rocket +would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the +ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, +which consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running +through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive +high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the +sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large +crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. + + +7.1 SMOKE BOMBS + + One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in +many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway +route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it +to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of +a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the +military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, +such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped +terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. + + Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such +as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will +burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to +burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a +base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has +a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other +excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground +plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be +mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of +the fuel-oxodizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke +when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The +trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic +cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the +smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to +burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic +containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, +producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion. + +7.11 SIMPLE SMOKE (By Zaphod) + + The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this + reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary + + 6 pt. ZINC POWDER + 1 pt. SULFUR POWDER + Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. + + +7.2 COLORED FLAMES + + Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by +putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the +ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that +produce the different colors of flames appear below. + +COLOR MATERIAL USED IN + +red strontium road flares, + salts red sparklers + (strontium + nitrate) + +green barium salts green sparklers + (barium nitrate) + +yellow sodium salts gold sparklers + (sodium nitrate) + +blue powdered copper blue sparklers, + old pennies + +white powdered magnesium firestarters, + or aluminum aluminum foil + +purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, + treating sewage + +7.3 TEAR GAS + + A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it +with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to +make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize +its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. + + EQUIPMENT FOR MAKING TEAR GAS + _________ + + 1. ring stands (2) 7. clamp holder + 2. alcohol burner 8. condenser + 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 9. rubber tubing + 4. clamps (2) 10. collecting flask + 5. rubber stopper 11. air trap + 6. glass tubing 12. beaker, 300 ml + + MATERIALS + _________ + + 10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water + +1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms +of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. + +2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. + +3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. + +4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a + brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. + Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is + corrosive. + +5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the + collecting flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a + safe place. + + +7.4 FIREWORKS + + While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, +they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several +basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, +profit, or nasty uses. + + +7.41 FIRECRACKERS + + A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The +instructions are below: + +1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. + "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. + +2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with + epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. + Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package. + +3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a + desired length of fuse. + +4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, + pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or + any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the + tube almost to the top. + +5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a + pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more + epoxy. + +6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it + to dry. + +7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash + powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing + the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the + explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks + of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of + the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks + will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or + from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. + + Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode + with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. + + First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material + inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. + + Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. + (NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, + AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash + powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small + balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag + overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. + Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was + satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker. + +8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to + semi-professional displays can be produced. + + +7.42 SKYROCKETS + + An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from +model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. + +1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that + the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) + +2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the + engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue. + +3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder + is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least + half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about + 1/2 an inch. + +4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various + types of effects can be produced. + +5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, + spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be produced. + + 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the + fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. + + +7.43 ROMAN CANDLES + + Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to +make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well +worth the trouble. + +1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several + layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube + from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths. + +2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the + drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. + +3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a + desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly. + +4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube. + +5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. + Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of + pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% + flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one + drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. + + This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when + left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. + Allow the ball to dry. + +6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly + easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently + against the ball with a pencil. + +7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a + safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored + fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This + height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step + 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. + +8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. + +9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, + producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. + + +8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION + + Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained +through a public or university library. There are also many publications that +are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to +make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary +magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of +places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also +includes fireworks companies and the like. + + +COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, + P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING + MURFREESBORO, TN + 37133 + + UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE + BOX 1378-SN + HERMISTON, OREGON + 97838 + + AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH + SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES + DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328 + + BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, + 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES + P.O. BOX 226 + PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 + + CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS + P.O. BOX 22927 + ROCHESTER, NEW YORK + 14692 + + R. ALLEN PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION + P.O. BOX 146 BOOKS & FORMULAS + WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090 + + MJ DISTRIBUTING FIREWORKS FORMULAS + P.O. BOX 10585 + YAKIMA,WA 98909 + + EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, + 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES + RENO, NEVADA + 89509 + + + COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451 + JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN + 53547 + + NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 + STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT + 06095 + + RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 + EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 + + STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW + WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD + RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 + + WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS + P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) + ROCHESTER, INDIANA 46975 + +BOOKS +ÄÄÄÄÄ +THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK (highly inaccurate) + +THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL (formulas work, but put maker at risk) + +MILITARY EXPLOSIVES + + + Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly +useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or +"Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, it's in the office). This is a +$60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus +demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. + +9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS + + In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she +wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the +chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order +of priority would probably resemble the following: + + LIQUIDS SOLIDS + _______ ______ + + ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate + ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate + ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) + ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate + ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium + ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum + ____ Potassium Permanganate + GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of) + _______ ____ Mercury + ____ Potassium Nitrate + ____ Hydrogen ____ Potassium Hydroxide + ____ Oxygen ____ Phosphorus + ____ Chlorine ____ Sodium Azide + ____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Lead Acetate + ____ Barium Nitrate + +10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY + + In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic +ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge +of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following +reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school +chemistry book. + + +1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide +K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O + 4 4 2 + +2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide + " + HNO ----> KNO + " + 3 3 + +3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " + 3 4 3 4 +4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " + 3 3 3 3 + +5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium + +A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H + 3 2 + +B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al + 3 2 + + The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container +which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and +sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high +explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great +excess. + +11.0 ABOUT THE EDITOR + + The current editor is presently attending a small midwestern college. He +has never been convicted, tried or charged with a crime, and will never admit +to having commited any one of the 87 assorted misdemeanors and felonies (not +counting multiple counts, such as the 103 dry ice bombs) which one might +accuse him of. V.T. (The EDITOR) + +11.1 ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + While in high school, the original author became affiliated with CHAOS, and +eventually became the head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at +age 18, he produced his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep +crater in an associate's back yard. He had also produced many types of +rockets, explosive ammunition, and other pyrotechnic devices. + + While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, he was injured when a +home made device exploded in his hand; he did not make the device. The author +learned, however, and then decided to reform, and although he still +constructs an occasional explosive device, he chooses to abstain from their +production. + +END OF PART 1 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST + + + WARNING: The second part of this book consists of untested and quite + possibly DANGEROUS plans, formulas and information. Under NO + circumstances should the reader even consider attempting to carry + out any of the procedures outlined below. + + THE EDITOR (V.T.) + +PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons +------ Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of + 15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing! + + Addendum by The Editor: If you aren't in the Chicago area, + check a local BBS list. If you see a BBS which runs under UNIX, + odds are it carries usenet. The appropriate place to look is + rec.pyrotechnics. + +At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather +than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a bunch +of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or +more. + + At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes +punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a small hole in the side at +the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it +reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then +placed therein. + + In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic +solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and +sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics, +we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato +chips provided spectacular entertainment. + + Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole +in the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The +"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it. + +BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that! +---------- + + Our version of the potato chip cannon, originally designed around the +Pringles potato chip can, was built similarly. Ours used coke cans, six with +the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had Bottle opener holes all +around one end, the top of this can was covered with a grid or piece of wire +screening to keep the tennis ball from falling all the way to the bottom. +This was spiral wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape. + + A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For +ignition we used lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push +button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way +back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of +two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through the other hole. + + We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When fired +with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range the +ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle. Closer up +the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a +moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside. +Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls. + +PART 4 + More Fun Stuff for Terrorists + + Carbide Bomb + +This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium +carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at +nearly any hardware store. + Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a +glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with +the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in +cutting torches. + Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a +burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! + Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower + +For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. +Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby +drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is +regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The +other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. +With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be +careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 +feet!!! + +PART 5- This is all various files I gleaned from BBS's. (Added 8-23-90) + + Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas +that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the balloon +tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones +that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get +the picture? Good... + + OPENING COMBO LOCKS + +[ Touched up by V.T - The Editor ] + + First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock +is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on +the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that is pushed in to the lock +when you lock it. + + To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired +combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the +lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock +without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps +when you don't know the combination to begin with). + + To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or +a opened out piece of a collapsing antenna (the inside diameter of the curved +piece of metal should be the same as the diameter of the shackle- if the metal +is too thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down. + + Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side +and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight +side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file +down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many +hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can jimmy +various locks. + + Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, +you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens +from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the +horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. + + Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the +crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the +pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to open. + + Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a +Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone +does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very +tight so ya can't get the shim in. + + PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS + WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER + + Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers, +principals and other people who are justassholes. depending on your level of +hatred of this person i would advise that you do some of these following +experiments: + + (1) Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already +know that gasoline + dishsoap(e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture +called napalm. now napalm is a jelly-like substance used in bombs, +flamethrowers, etc. now you can only guess what this mixture would do to +someone's fuel line!!!! + + (2) Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe- when +the exhaust pipe heats up(and it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe +will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car. +Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!! + + (3) Light Bulb Bomb- see part one of the file + + (4) Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under +the name flowers of sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very +strong odor and plenty of smoke. now all you need is a fuse from a +firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack very +lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into +the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value +your lungs. you can find many uses for this( or at least i hope so. + + FUN WITH ALARMS + + A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can +also use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. You can +purchase this at any hardware store as insulation. it is easy to handle and +dries faster. + +Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. this alarm is a small +device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his +body capacitance sets off the alarm. these nasty nuisences can be found by +walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly. +if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal +object to the knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think +someone is breaking in and call room service for help. all sorts of fun and +games will ensue. + + Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a +registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most +use three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from +all fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. after the keypad +has been used just apply finger print dust and all four digits will be marked. +now all you have to do is figure out the order. if you want to have some fun +with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same time. many units use this +as a panic button. This will bring the owner and the cops running and ever-one +will have a good time. never try to remove these panels from the wall, as +they have built-in tamper switches. + + On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liqour +stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip. these little nasties are +placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are +with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that's why when you make +your withdrawl it's best to help yourself so you can check for these little +nasties. if you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of +twenties, and then pull out the twenties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind +to prevent the circuit from closing. + + SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: + + THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON + + This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. the bottom of a +soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or other +explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is +then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. + + ! ! After first making sure there are no + ! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine + ! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put into the straw and the can is set + ---- ---- down by a tree or wall where it will not + ! !1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give + ! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will then + !* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby. + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER + ! ! !% ! + ! ==== ! + ! ! + ! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone would + ! --- ! pick up and drink from someone else's + ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft drink can. but if such a crude + ! / ! person should try to drink from your + ! ! bomb he would break a nasty habit + --------- fast! + + + Pyro Book ][ by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf + +TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE + +1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can. +2) add a few drops of glycerine +3) wait 3-4 min. +4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame.. + +** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple] +** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy... +** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts] + + +EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER + +INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the +attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would +like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how +to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does +it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the +resourses and materials available to you. + + Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because +they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is +going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials +that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you +need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting +point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a +small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a +firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is +easy. + + HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL + + This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume +Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of +this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step +back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest +a lot of experiments for this. + + ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL + + Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you +experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful +explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast +burning rate. + + --- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be +harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. +I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been +instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in +certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, +Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be +notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you +need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out +something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I +am guessing you would prefer it that way. + + + HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES + + Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; +then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets +easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for +a bomb without dying of boredom. + Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of +black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that +gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A +science teacher was killed that way. + Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you +can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your +thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly +against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 +feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat +to light the match. + + Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper +match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. +Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, +the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. + + I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are +made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws +off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff +wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of +wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. +It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets +hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. + + + HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID + + Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should +only cost a few dollars. What you will get is about a gallon of dilute +sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The +glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. + + Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until +white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot +plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass +container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no +metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb +moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time +bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and +follow me into the next installment. + + HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE: + + To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts +by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the +mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a +spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid +in the depression and step back. + It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. +To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a +small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the +clorate/sugar mixture. + Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos +fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric +acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite +the mixture. + The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying +how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react +with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the +side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and +used to set off the device of your choice. + + Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can +be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them +extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. +But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have +decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but +for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. + + + PEROXYACETONE + + PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK + SENSITIVE. + +MATERIALS- + 4ML ACETONE + 4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE + 4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID + 150MM TEST TUBE + +Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops +concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to +appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 +celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and +filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To +ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at +least a meter away) . + +I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical +demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some +experiments. + ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! + + +THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG + + This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting +experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work +depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and +brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some +knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. + + I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this +information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who +are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. + +I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION + +VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE +DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE +AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID +TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE +MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE +RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!) + + + GENERATING CHLORINE GAS + + This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you +shouild know what you're doing before you try this... + + Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach', +and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something +like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and +put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since +the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use +large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!). + + + CHLORINE + TURPENTINE + + Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the +bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start +burning... + + GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS + + To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react +with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, +etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter +than air.... light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*. + + Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this +involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric +current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two +test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking +6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of +water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside +them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some +wire going down to the electrodes. + + This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the +oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon +electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the +chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to +form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some +sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than +making the water conduct electricity. + +WARNING: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC + inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and + Oxygen at each electrode. + + + HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE + + Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it +inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted +with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The +hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity +and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not +react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is +turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react... + + PREPARATION OF OXYGEN + + Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from +a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off +oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. + + Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the +bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things +to burn better... + + IODINE + + Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To +seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat +it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the +tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol +should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine +crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't +tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen +triiodide. + ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! + + I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react +to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with +rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and +possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches) + + David Richards + + + TRIPWIRES + by The Mortician + + Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about +landmines... If you can't then here is the concept. + + You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that +will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt +battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can +create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this. + + ------------------>+ batery + steel || ->- batery + wool || / + :==:--- <--fuse \ + || / + ---- spst switch--\ + + So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or +igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light. + Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of +wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the +explosive. + + Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury +it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie +one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a +loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that +when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive. + + To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and +find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques... +On my board... (201)376-4462 + + + BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame) + + Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, +and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby +trap. + + There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise +remains the same. What you'll need: + + 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to + bend easily (galvanized iron works well) + 6 feet of wire or fishing line + 5-15 feet of strong string or rope + 1 really sick mind. + + Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so +they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30 +degrees. + + Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your +nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or +string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string +so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail +between the two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others +(see diagrams) + + bent nails + / || ^ slight upward tension +# /\ || +#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on) +# ------!----()------ +# trip wire + \ / +Trunk third nail + + Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the +other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a +stump etc). + + When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your +sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing +pin). + + There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be +attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip +wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two +bent nails. + + A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a +hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is +attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring. + + || +*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------* + SPRING BOLT Trip wire + + With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if +it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled. + + + Improvised Explosives +Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich + +CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT KILLING + HIS/HER SELF IN THE PROCESS. + + This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive +exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C + + Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It +needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by +treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. +C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. + + This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking +with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper +reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium +chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that +it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that +the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that +the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene +glycol. + + It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. +Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the +chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this +explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good +idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final +explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine: + +Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5% + + In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with +the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to +shock as is nitroglycerin. + The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix +these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This +kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when +the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use +this explosive as soon as possible. + + If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This +explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very +powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent. + + These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the +manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and +ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use +them. + Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with +an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been +made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very +few mis haps. + Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the +stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of +nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an +anvil. + Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I +mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any +doubts DON'T. + +Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich + + This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive +compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled +and absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's +its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and +kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. + + This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. +It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an +artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar +but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in +approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). + + This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric +acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified +aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the +final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be +taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric +acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin +and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. +They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. + + To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but +buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine +consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this +powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will +dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that +was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount +than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the +alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex +dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of +crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. + + Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and +dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat +to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric +frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good +cooking oil. + +When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, +that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This +next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a +good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any +procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding +58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in +the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas +(nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. + + The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until +the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the +beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is +allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped +slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow +crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in +200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then +the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, +very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and +places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. +This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. + + The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder +consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax +and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the +crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. +This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The +detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but +simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work +requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for +shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive +as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again +this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. + + AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF +INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE +RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. +THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH +ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE +UP AS NEEDED. + + +Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich + + This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and +explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main +explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, +and other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively +safe to manufacture. + + One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, +sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures +that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively +while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as +just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is +not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause +the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and +yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives +are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. + + To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite +solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large +pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium +chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in +the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 +g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this +solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading +is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). + + When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator +until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals +that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on +the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have +formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. + + Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and +mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml. +distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. +Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process +if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should +be relatively pure potassium chlorate. + + Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to +drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax. +Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on +90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a +plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately +mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, +dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. + + This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density +(1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges +guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not +suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low +detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be +considered the same for the sake of charge computation. + + If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the +manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the +wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The +addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation +velocity is 3300 m/sec.. + + +Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound By the Lich + + This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of +production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure +product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. + + In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water +and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium +chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice +due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate. + + This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the +ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or +equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process +mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation +reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. +H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough +boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky +substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this +chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling +hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed. + + This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid +left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution +reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear +filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water +evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. + + These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to +drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to +a very fine powder (400 mesh). + + If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization +is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the +resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The +powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with +vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO +FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in +this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower +detonation velocity. + + This explosive is composed of the following: + + potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10% + + Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline +carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is +used) should not be exposed to water or moisture. + + The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of +2-3% aluminum substituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this +aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will +ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this +explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. +for the sodium salt based explosive. + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume +that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and +that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline. + + +ASSORTED NASTIES: + + Sweet-Oil + In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. if +you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil +out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure +that I did some damage. + + Slow Air + Ok, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her +tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there +tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is +blows out on the road wih a razor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't +cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and +cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out +at a high speed if your lucky. + + Vanishing Paint + Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his +paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. +Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough. + + Loose Wheel + Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off. This +can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off. + + Dual Neutral + This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On +the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts +and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could +chip some of the teeth off the gears. + + Un-Midaser + Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust +so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on +transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you +work the more you fuck them over. + + + LAUGHING GAS + +Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of +the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the +patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing. +Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. + + Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is +because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were +inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. + The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of +the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag +under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! + To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply +house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. + + First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you +evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy +brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when +a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. + + When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break +it up and store it in a bottle. + + A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading +into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. + + When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If +white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. + + When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. + +CAUTION: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it. It's + easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing + reflex doesn't know it. Do not put your head in a plastic bag + (duhh...) because you will cheerfully choke to death. + + PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS + + Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years +by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or +to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any +danger of apprehension. + + They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to +force out the spent shell. + + There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. + + First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest +in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong +tape. + + The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger +flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The +trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. + + The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe +with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing +through the pipe. + + The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through +it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass +through the hole and rest on the primer. + + To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with +the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the +trigger and the thing actually fires. + + Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. +All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. + + Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. +For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas +line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the +firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a +wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of +steel pipe with threads and a cap. + + Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. +The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second +accomodates its wider powder chamber. + + A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to +comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. + + Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has +a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small +nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the +front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought +around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. + + In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it +by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to +where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go +off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel +does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings +may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use. + + +Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon + +Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book + 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l + +Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! +I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes +only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their +fucking school to kingdom scum! + + Astrolite + +The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant +research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most +powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than +TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it +isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. + + Astrolite G +"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very +high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for +nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual +characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed +easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite +G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was +soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! + + To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) + Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight +'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that +the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough, +that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' +hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous... + + Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting +hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic +hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization +catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic +developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be +careful with. + + Astrolite A/A-1-5 +Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with +hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has +a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. + + Misc. info +You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens +though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be +able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. + + + Sodium Chlorate Formulas + +Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a +substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find +sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used +in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. + + Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder + +65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top. + + Rocket Fuel +6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement. + + Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) + +50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand), +10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur + +You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. + + Incendiary Mixture +55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur + + Impact Mixture +50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate + +Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when +mix- ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. + + Filler explosive +85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder + + Nitromethane formulas +I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite. + +Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139 +flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f + +Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. +Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, +fats, etc. + +To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: + +1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline + +Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. + + Nitromethane 'solid' explosives +2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) + +soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is +supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, +and has 30% more brilliance. + + The Firey Explosive Pen Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us + + Materials Needed Here's a GREAT little trick to play on + 1] One Ball Point `Click` pen your best fiend (no thats not a typo) at + 2] Gun Powder skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a + 3] 8 or 10 match heads friend! + 4] 1 Match stick + 5] a sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2") + +1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top. +2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little + parts and the ink fill was. +3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker. +4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on + the inside on the sand paper. +5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where + the ball point comes out. +6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is + to keep the powder from spilling. + +The Finished pen should look like this: + + Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \ + | | + \ | | + \ _________________|____________________|________ + <_______________________________|_______________|=== + +call the RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs' at (312) 528-5020 + + + MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! By Phucked Agent! + +Materials: + +1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off switch + + It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this one +or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces! + +1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up. +2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord +3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!) +4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching +the Hot-spot contact. +5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off! +6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket. +7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!! + + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom1_3.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom1_3.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..b50759ce --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom1_3.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5538 @@ +From: umcormi5@ccu.umanitoba.ca (John Cormier) +Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics +Subject: This is TBBOM ver 1.3 +Keywords: boom TBBOM pyro bombs +Message-ID: +Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1992 21:18:35 GMT +Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada +Lines: 5529 + +THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF 1.3 10-06-91 [REPLACES TBBOM12.ZIP/ TBBOM12.TXT] + +Copyright 10/06/91 by CHAOS Indus. All Rights Reserved with 3 exceptions: + + UNLIMITED Distribution in cybernetic media of an UNMODIFIED copy of +this document is allowed, with the following exceptions: + + 1. If a FEE is charged for access to this file or for + downloading in general , the authors must receive 25% of such + fee or $19.95, whichever is greater. + 2. This document may NOT be distributed via COMPUSERVE. + 3. Users are allowed to make no more than two (2) complete and + unmodified hardcopy versions of this file for personal use. + + If you did NOT receive this file in the form of a 98K ZIP file, it is +likely that you do not have a complete copy. To obtain one, send E-mail to the +addresses mentioned below. Fine bound softcover versions of this document will +be made available in late winter 1991. To get one of this limited signed and +numbered edition, send $19.95 + 5.50 S&H to: + + BOX 438, 71 E. 32nd St. Chicago, IL 60616 + +Make all checks and money orders payable to: LASERSCRIBE, INC. + + + +Preface + +10/5/91- Editing of the file is assumed by Vlad Tepes. Plans are currently +being made to convert the character graphics to bitmaps, as well as plans for +eventual hardcopy distribution. Updates will be distributed on the RIPCO BBS +at (312) 528-5020 and over the USENET via the rec.pyrotechnics newsgroup. + + By version 1.5 I hope to have .GIF files to replace the current character +graphics, and to have removed all duplicate entries. + +Note from the Editor: + + To make suggestions, corrections, or to + submit new information, send mail to: + to DAVID RICHARDS on the RIPCO BBS, or: + cshawk_pro38@iitvax.iit.edu + cshawk_pro38@iitvax.bitnet + +Please refer to any items by section number or EXACT section heading. + + +Note from the author: + + Remember, the First Amendment is not a shield. Care must be taken to ensure +that no law is broken when information is gained or divulged. I have read +every word of this file, and swear that no article of this document is illegal +in any way. + + + REVISION HISTORY + +1987-1989 Compilation of original file +Early 1990 Original file lost in crash +August 8, 1990 File reborn as The Compleat Terrorist Today, August 8th, + 1990, at 1 AM, I found a copy of The Terrorist's Handbook on + a BBS, and recombined it with some other G-files. +March 31, 1991 In February, I had a major loss of data, but regained TCT + from a local BBS. I did some cosmetic work and killed some + redundancies, and renamed the file to TBBOM. Total file size + is now about 172 printed pages. (You may wish to print this + file out and bind it) +April 12, 1991 File revised by Vlad Tepes on Ripco II. Some deletions and + many valuable additions. I (The Editor) felt that the file + should have version numbers, so, in light of the additions by + Vlad Tepes, the first volume number is 1.1. +July 29, 1991 Revisions and addenda by Vlad Tepes. A revision is a change + in the information (The original text is immediately followed + by the new information) and an addendum refers to new + information. +October 6, 1991 Vlad Tepes assumes the job of co-author/editor. A few + neccessary deletions are made, as well as minor cosmetic + changes and additions. + + +begin "THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF" + +PART 1 - The Terrorist's Handbook - Self explanatory. + + THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK + +1.0 INTRODUCTION + + Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is proud to present this revised edition of The +Terrorist's Handbook. First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos +Industries assumes no responsibilities for any use of the information +presented in this publication. The purpose of this is to show the many +techniques and methods used by those people in this and other countries who +employ terror as a means to acheive political and social goals. The techniques +described here may be found in public libraries, and can often be carried out +by a terrorist with minimal resources. The processes and techniques herein +SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH +COULD RESULT FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS +PUBLICATION. ALTHOUGH ALL EFFORTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO INSURE ACCURACY THIS IS +MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! + +We feel that it is important that everyone has some idea of just how easy it +is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is the justification for +the existence of this publication. + +1.1 Table of Contents + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + +2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS +2.01 ........ Black Powder +2.02 ........ Pyrodex +2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder +2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder +2.05 ........ Flash Powder +2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS +2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks +2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY +2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS +2.31 ........ Nitric Acid +2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid +2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES +3.01 ........ Explosive Theory +3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES +3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals +3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate +3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine +3.14 ........ Picrates +3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.21 ........ Black Powder +3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose +3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures +3.24 ........ Perchlorates +3.25 ........ Flash Powder +3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) +3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.33 ........ ANFOS +3.34 ........ T.N.T. +3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate +3.36 ........ Dynamite +3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives +3.38 ........ Picric Acid +3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) +3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride +3.41 ........ Lead Azide +3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" +3.51 ........ Thermite +3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails +3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle +3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives +3.6 ......... Dry Ice +4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES +4.1 ....... SAFETY +4.11 ........ How Not To Get Killed +4.12 ........ Guidelines For Production +4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES +4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition +4.22 ........ Impact Ignition +4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition +4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition +4.241 ....... Mercury Switches +4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches +4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators +4.3 ....... DELAYS +4.31 ........ Fuse Delays +4.32 ........ Timer Delays +4.33 ........ Chemical Delays +4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS +4.41 ........ Paper Containers +4.42 ........ Metal Containers +4.43 ........ Glass Containers +4.44 ........ Plastic Containers +4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES +4.51 ........ Shaped Charges +4.52 ........ Tube Explosives +4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions +4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs +4.55 ........ Book Bombs +4.56 ........ Phone Bombs +5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS +5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) +5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition +5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition +5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition +5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) +5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition +5.22 ........ Shotguns +5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) +5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition +5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition +6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS +6.1 ....... ROCKETS +6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb +6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb +6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs +6.2 ........ CANNONS +6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon +6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon +6.23 ........ Reinforced Pipe Cannon +7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA +7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs +7.2 ......... Colored Flames +7.3 ......... Tear Gas +7.4 ......... Fireworks +7.41 ........ Firecrackers +7.42 ........ Skyrockets +7.43 ........ Roman Candles +8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION +9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS +10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY +11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + +2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS + + Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or +more pharmacies. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit +in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know +something about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for +example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with +each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black +powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade +of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the +smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. + + +2.01 BLACK POWDER + + Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the +smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely +important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a +confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. +The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual +bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning +powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are +listed below: + + GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN + ÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles + FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles + FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers + + The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more +surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades +also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black +powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the +grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of +powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited +accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb +moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a plastic spoon and +a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply +pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or +circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine +as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one +wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to +fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder, +since anyone can own black powder firearms in the United States. + + +2.02 PYRODEX + + Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes +in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound +container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black +powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, +and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not +be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to +absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the +same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and +dried. + + +2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER + + One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is +the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are +composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a +fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube +length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, +the gray fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. +This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is +exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain in +the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a +plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This +should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be +crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from +1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the +more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per +package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in +stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized +for their explosive powder. + +2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER + + Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle +standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be +referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Smokeless gunpowder is made +by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some +other cellulose material. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then +reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder, +the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large +and small grained smokeless powder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder +when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with +more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding +process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for +smokeless powder. owder costs about $9.00 per pound. In most states any +citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently +few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now ID checks in +many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't +subject to such checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by mail +order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT regulations on packaging. + + +2.05 FLASH POWDER + + Flash powder is a mixture of powdered aluminum metal and various +oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated +with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is +sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very +finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The +fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. + + It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot +white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. +It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. Flash powder is often +made with aluminum and/or magnesium. Zirconium metal is the main ingredient in +flash BULBS, but is too expensive to be used in most flash powder mixtures. + + +2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a +commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite +with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is +touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation +will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high +explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro- +glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold- +Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist +of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium +nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, +remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, +airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb +water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers. + + +2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS + + The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section +deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. +Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, +and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab +buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most +of the labs will still be unlocked. + + +2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS + + If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most +effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are +unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these +methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks. + +These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, +but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule +here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several +devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental +tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin +pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all +these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the +latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is +done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing +the latch back into the door. + +Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door +closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from +being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate +of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently +far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be +slipped. + +(Ill. 2.11) ___ + | } < + Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger + second |___} < + finger + +Some methods for getting through locked doors are: + + 1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the + frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to + the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed + with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position + horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it + out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after + shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of + forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, + and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards. + 2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding + them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely + innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they + work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but + then why bother to slip the lock at all? + 3) Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far + enough to slip. + 4) If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or + replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so + that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If + you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make + it much easier to pick. + 5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door + opens outward), remove the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with + welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its + effectiveness. + 6) If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, + break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger + retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g., + Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially, + yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or + screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the + door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to + attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/.... + 7) Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things + in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical + resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that + everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a + tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a + wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for + better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can + get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with + a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a + micrometer works best: keys made from mic measurements are more likely + to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us + tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that + works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble + it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed. + 8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have + simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be + consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small + screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply + a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the + screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With + practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins + will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the + top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up, + additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in + conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older + or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the + cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if + their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins + to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it + generally takes a *lot* of patience. + 9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take + breaks. Make the most of your opportunities. + 10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes + anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to + look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and + normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that + they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups + at 3 AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's + aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually + *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you + do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any + theft or break-ins reported there the next day... + 11) Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a + building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys + are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places + that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in + each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those + places you're *really* curious about. + 12) Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the + lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or + similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.) + + +2.11.1 SLIPPING A LOCK + + The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It +is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent +as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls +nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs, +etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb +is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't +leave home without one. + + (Ill. 2.11.1 #1) + +The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that +looks like this: + ________________________________________ + /________________________________________| + | | + | | L-shaped + | | + | | + |_| + +(Ill. 2.11.1 #2) + _____________________________ + / ___________________________| + | | + | | J-shaped + | | + | |________ + \________| + +(Ill. 2.11.1 #3) + _____________________ + / ___________________| + | | + | | + | | U-shaped + | | + | |____________________ + \____________________| + + +We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities +have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At +most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal +charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are +particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks +that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.] + +we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are +various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For +instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any +key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least +don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too +much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey. + + +2.11.2 OPENING MASTER "WARDED" LOCKS (by Vlad Tepes) + +These are the lock with the keys that look like this: + +(Ill. 2.11.2 #1) + + _ _ + / \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \ + \_/ [] [] [] [] + +Just file the key down so it looks like this: + +(Ill. 2.11.2 #2) + _ _ + / \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~ + \_/ [] + +Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and +down, turning as you pass each block, to find the internal lever that will +release the latch. It's possible that some of the newer locks have more than +one lever, which makes the process much more difficult. + + +2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY + + Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and +drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous +compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some +money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. + +Chemical Used In Available at +________ _______ ____________ + +alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores + solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores + +ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven + +ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, +nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores + +nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores + poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops (The Alley at + Belmont/Clark, Chgo) + +magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores + +lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores + +mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores + +mercury mercury thermometers supermarkets, + hardware stores + +sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores + +glycerine pharmacies/drug stores + +sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store + +charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets + gardening stores + +sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store + +cellulose (cotton) first aid drug + medical supply stores + +strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, + +fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, + +bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, + +potassium permanganate water purification purification plants + +hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores +methenamine (camping) + +nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops + plates photography stores + +Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO + +sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores + (VERY impure) for cutting torches + + + ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen +by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A +desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. + + & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form +that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure +form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be +expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. + + +2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS + + While many chemicals are not easily available in their pure form, it +is sometimes possible for the home chemist to purify more easily available +sources of impure forms of desired chemicals. + + +2.31 NITRIC ACID + + There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for +explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once +again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! + + Materials: Equipment: + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source + potassium nitrate + retort + distilled water + ice bath + concentrated + sulfuric acid stirring rod + + collecting flask with stopper + +1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. + +2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium +nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, +carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. + +3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the +collecting flask in the ice bath. + +4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid +begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric +acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, +or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too +strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can +result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may +explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away +from it. + + Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, +simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur +and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to +dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter +the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the +liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are +insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, +potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. + +2.32 SULFURIC ACID + + Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or +industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car +battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of +a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably +be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, +either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can +also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster +than clean motor oil. + + +2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. +It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice +bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, +ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one +would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water +and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine +powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight +container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals +formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the +remaining water. + + +3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES + + Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE +ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS +TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT +OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. + + These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could +conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually +scaled-down industrial procedures. + +3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY + + An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, +undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that +is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down +into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original +piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air +are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed +greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains +the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: +high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and +primers, which may do both. + + High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order +explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes +through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart +the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate +approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In +a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the +shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to +produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of +high order explosives. + + Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. +when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and +gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under +pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as +gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and +hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; +they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in +unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are +good examples of low order explosives. + + Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as +mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are +usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low +explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that +they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are +confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a +shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to +decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are +also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a +bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer. + +3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES + + Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here, +only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium +triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no +light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even +the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. + + +3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS + + Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals +that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they +are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such +crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks +across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps +and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, +or heated. Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The +pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should +be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is +heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. +Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will +usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a +solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent +brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, +since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things +there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for +about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. While +such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could +utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of +them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a +few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be +seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. + + Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner: + + Materials Equipment + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + iodine crystals funnel and filter paper + paper towels + clear ammonia + (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars + for the suicidal) + +1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars + must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. + +2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. + +3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the + funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in + every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a + semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with + one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place + the cone into the funnel. + +4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the + solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. + +5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar + to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. + +6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, + and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure + that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they + could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into + eight pieces of about the same size. + +7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of + duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape + together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. + Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and + store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of + about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can + be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process + which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. + One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight + containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place + them where they will be stepped on or crushed. + + +3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE + + Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating +compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of +infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the +fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably +use the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + 5 g mercury glass stirring rod + + 35 ml concentrated 100 ml beaker (2) + nitric acid + + ethyl alcohol (30 ml) adjustable heat source + + distilled water blue litmus paper + + funnel and filter paper + + Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make +mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + + Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be +hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other +less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are +available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should +be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury +vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a +good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not +get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. + +1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, + using the glass rod. + +2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the + solution turns green and boils. + +3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and + carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or + brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. + +4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that + the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the + distilled water to the solution. + +5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid + solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and + toxic. + +6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess + acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are + neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches + the wet crystals + +7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from + any explosive or flammable material. + + This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury +cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of +ethanol to every one volume of mercury. + + +3.13 NITROGLYCERINE + + Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the +most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. +Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to +make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by +the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is +converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to +make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: + + MATERIAL EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + distilled water eye-dropper + + table salt 100 ml beaker + + sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) + + concentrated nitric ice bath container + acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) + + concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer + acid (39 ml) + + glycerine blue litmus paper + + +1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. + +2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about + a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium + bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water + so that some remains undissolved. + +3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and + adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall + temperature. + +4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of + concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker + will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow + into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a + large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of + the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less. + +5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add + the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two + acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a + good idea to start another ice bath to do this. + +6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one + drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where + the mixed acids and glycerine meet. + + DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF + THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, WATCH OUT !! + + The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will +immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of +glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any +explosive in small quantities. + +7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, + adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution + in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the + nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the + concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. + +8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 + degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of + nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in + step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and + the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as + much of the acid- water solution as possible without disturbing the + nitroglycerine. + +9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it + into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate + much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less + likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine + with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if + necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. + +10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean + container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far + away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine + can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool + place. + + +3.14 PICRATES + + Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or +trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since +they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid +with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating +the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or +produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of +a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is +impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high +explosive. + +3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores +and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store +owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such +an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order +explosives. + +3.21 BLACK POWDER + + First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first +used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to +make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is +converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine +burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by +static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be +made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could +manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium clay grinding bowl + nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder + + or or + + sodium wooden salad bowl + nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon + + sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) + + charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) + + distilled water coffee pot or heat source + + + +1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding + bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or + sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. + +2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a +separate plastic bag. + +3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, + and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. + +4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium +nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no +more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. + +5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. + Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too + hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water. + +6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe + container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never + store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate + static electricity. + + +3.22 NITROCELLULOSE + + Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more +stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It +also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. +Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following +procedure: + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers + + concentrated funnel and filter paper + nitric acid + blue litmus paper + concentrated + sulfuric acid + + distilled water + + + +1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 +cc of concentrated nitric acid. + +2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 +minutes. + +3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to +wash it in. + +4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. + +5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to +be dried and stored. + +3.22.1 PRODUCING CELLULOSE NITRATE (From andrew at CMU) + + I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I +didn't have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At first +I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold +soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated, cheap +and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 and a +little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so little +water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered +concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I +believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool +or cotton cloth. + + Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with +nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing +the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled water. +I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?) When +that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water quenched +the runaway reaction of cellulose. + +The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned +into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether. + + WARNINGS + + All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When +it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all +manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in the +process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will happily +blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply. Not for the +novice. + + Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if it isn't stablized. The +decomposition is auto- catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if +the material is kept confined over time. The process is much faster if the +material is not washed well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers +such as diphenyl amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO +CONTACT WITH NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture +the small amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They +therefore inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case. + +Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away +with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it. + +3.22.2 Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by: + +1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is + recycled. + +2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water. + +3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water. + + If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, +then rinsed in fresh water. + + The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the +nitration will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced. + + There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is +useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not +explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed +to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed. + +(Ill. 3.22.2) + + + CH OH CH ONO + | 2 | 2 2 + | | + C-----O HNO C-----O + /H \ 3 /H \ + -CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O- + \H H/ H SO \H H/ + C-----C 2 4 C-----C + | | | | + OH OH ONO ONO + 2 2 + + CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE + + +3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES + + There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be +produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective +and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working +fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each +compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be +given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: + +oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ +potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact + sensitive; unstable + +potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; + charcoal 15% unstable + +potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely + magnesium or unstable! + aluminum dust 25% + +potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable + aluminum dust 33% + +sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable + sulfur 5% burn rate + +potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before + ignition depends +WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size + +potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable + +potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable + magnesium or + aluminum dust 20% + +potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? + +potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is + sulfur 10% black powder! + +potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot + or magnesium 40% + + + Oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ +potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- + sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches + +ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for + and small amount of space shuttle + iron oxide + +potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% + +potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder + sulfur 20% + +barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate +potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder + +barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate + aluminum dust 5% flash powder + +potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly + magnesium or unstable + aluminum dust 25% + +potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable +calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive + +potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; + aluminum or ignites if + magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! + +potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable + sulfur 10% +================================================================================ + +NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium +perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. + + The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns +AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of +burning. + + As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures +that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), +different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity +of the mixture. + +3.24 PERCHLORATES + + As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid +will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or +sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that +can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or +sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or +potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be treated +with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react +explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium +hydroxide are ideal. + +3.25 FLASH POWDER (By Dr. Tiel) + +Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to produce +your own flash powder: + +(1) Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc) separately in a + clean vessel. + +(2) NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition. + +(3) Mix the composition on a large paper sheet, by rolling the composition + back and forth. + +(4) Do not store flash compositions, especially any containing Mg. + +(5) Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the power + of such mixtures. + + KNO3 50% (by weight) + Mg 50% + + It is very important to have the KNO3 very dry, if evolution of ammonia is +observed then the KNO3 has water in it. Very pure and dry KNO3 is needed. + + KClO3 with Mg or Al metal powders works very well. Many hands, faces and +lives have been lost with such compositions. + +KMnO4 with Mg or Al is also an extremely powerful flash composition. + +KClO4 with Al is generally found in comercial fireworks, this does not +mean that it is safe, it is a little safer than KClO3 above. + +K2Cr2O7 can also be used as an oxidizer for flash powder. + +The finer the oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more powerful the +explosive. This of course will also increase the sensetivity of the flash +powder. + +For a quick flash small quantities can be burnt in the open. +Larger quantities (50g or more) ignited in the open can detonate, they do not +need a container to do so. + +NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate. + +Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products +are considered. Excess metal powders are generally used. This excess +burns with atmospheric oxygen. + +4 KNO3 + 10 Mg --> 2 K2O + 2 N2 + 10 MgO + energy + +KClO3 + 2 Al --> KCl + Al2O3 + energy + +3 KClO4 + 8 Al --> 3 KCl + 4 Al2O3 + energy + +6 KMnO4 + 14 Al --> 3 K2O + 7 Al2O3 + 6 Mn + energy + +Make Black Powder first if you have never worked with pyrotechnic +materials, then think about this stuff. + + Dr. Van Tiel- Ph.D. Chemistry + + +Potassium perchlorate is a lot safer than sodium/potassium chlorate. + +3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + High order explosives can be made in the home without too much +difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high +explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is +made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) +molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a +material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the +nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in +a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based +explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, +several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. + +3.31 R.D.X. + + R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with +plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is +because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to +detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too +severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, +but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. + +(Ill. 3.31) NO + 2 + | + N + / \ RDX MOLECULE + / \ + H C H C + / 2 2 + / | + O N N--NO + 2 \ / 2 + \ / + \ / + CH + 2 + + R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It +is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the +possible exception of ammonium nitrate. + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + hexamine 500 ml beaker + or + methenamine glass stirring rod + fuel tablets (50 g) + funnel and filter paper + concentrated + nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container (plastic bucket) + + distilled water centigrade thermometer + + table salt blue litmus paper + + ice ammonium nitrate + + +1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully + pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. + +2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts + of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and + it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could + result. Stir the mixture. + +3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more + ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, + ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold + when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the + temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes + +4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, + and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and + dispose of the corrosive liquid. + +5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter + the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and + 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more + stable and safe. + +6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely + using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. + +7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% + mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic + bag. This is one way to desensitize the explosive. + +8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. + it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. + +9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it + should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since + ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium + nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize + the R.D.X. + +10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a + density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. + +3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the haphazard +method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since +it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to +shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a +drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium +nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather +powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The +diagram below will explain. + +(Ill. 3.32) + _________________________________________ + | |__ | + ________|_ | | + | | T.N.T. | ammonium nitrate | + |primer |booster | + | + |________| | fuel oil | + | __| | + |_______|_______________________________| + + The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending +a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. + + +3.33 ANFOS + + ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO +solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to +pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to +detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by +weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps +the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also +requires a large shockwave to set it off. + + +3.33.1 About ANFO (From Dean S.) + + Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are +mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful +commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact that it is +cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is +dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To +keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck, +which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to most of +the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a dye of +some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to +distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer. + + ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive +to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. +Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters +include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, +dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. The +need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water +susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the atmosphere, and +becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with +borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low +density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no good, +and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low. Generally, +the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective. +ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it is places, +raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds to the cost, +and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some commercial, +cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises power +considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive. + + Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of +ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is +extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends a +AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More oil +makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and excess +fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the mixture is oxygen +poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as the +porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with various +materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being +absorbed. + + Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, +either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus, a +pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather +than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong +casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite +well. So will big piles. Thats how the explosive potential was discovered: a +small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the +cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big bang. +A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with +a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive +mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture. This is +what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The military +literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it is important +to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more powerful than +commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability, and thus a +strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They also tend to +go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then hey, who +doesn't.... + + Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly +useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or +"Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This is a +$60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus +demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. + + Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the +manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture +and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to +manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those +who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least +in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no +criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need +a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities +of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion +to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old +folks homes, okay. + + D. S.- Civil Engineer at large. + + +3.34 T.N.T. + + T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high +explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known +high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is +the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well +known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is +designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the +product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one +step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very +strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very +strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, +and it is filtered. + + +3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE + + Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be +obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of +vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the +material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, +however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making +such an explosive is outlined below: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag + (9 parts, by volume) + + petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl + (vaseline) or + (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon + +1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, + until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is + powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. + +2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the + plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. + put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. + +3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium + chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, + add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. + +4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to + greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, + is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. + + +3.36 DYNAMITE + + The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. +Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was +made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided +individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) +would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various +materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large +weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate +could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase +the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. + +3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES + + Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All +that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated +nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 +ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. +Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. +Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are +more readily detonated. + + +3.38 PICRIC ACID + + Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military +explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less +sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly +simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and +nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college +chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric +acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, +such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer +form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant +would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric +acid. + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask + + concentrated adjustable heat source + sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) + 1000 ml beaker + concentrated nitric or other container + acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in + + distilled water filter paper + and funnel + + glass stirring rod + + +1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml + of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. + +2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and + bring the water to a gentle boil. + +3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling + water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty + minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool + for about five minutes. + +4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to + cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section + 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in + the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, + stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should + occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of + the ice bath. + +5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more + tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, + and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. + +6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice + bath until it is cold. + +7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution + through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of + it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. + +8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the + filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. + +9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. + +10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will + react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode + spontaneously. + + +3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE + + Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. +It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than +that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric +acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when +placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear +household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into +a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add +clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. +The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate. + + +3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE + + Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow +liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or +when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to +produce. + +1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do + not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains + undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. + +2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing + hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a + stopper and glass pipe. + +3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the + beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers + together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow + droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down + to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. + + Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate +solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires timing +and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. + + The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently +heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes +from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating +flask in another flask that contains water. + +4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, + since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. + + +3.41 LEAD AZIDE + + Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other +explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. +It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily +detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to +produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. + + By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, +the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers +together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, +until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker +stops forming. + + Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The +precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead +acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. +Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. + +3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" + + The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be +used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented +here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. + +3.51 THERMITE + + Thermite is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous +amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not +react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both +finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the +oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that +produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat +energy produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but +when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around. + + MATERIALS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + powdered aluminum (10 g) powdered iron oxide (10 g) + +1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermite. + Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as + homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% + by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts. + + +2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of + potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric + acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section + 4.33. The other method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. + Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the + mixture can be ignited. + + +3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS + + First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now +exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, +and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, +such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter +fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large +glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the +flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in +the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. + + Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave +a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the +bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on +impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the +site of impact, and burst into flame. + +Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more +volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture +such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, +and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this +must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown + + +3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE + + The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather +than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best +a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the +very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. +When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays +onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck +by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The +chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced +to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate 12 oz.glass bottle + (2 teaspoons) + + sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside + + conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges + + gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels + + glass or plastic cup and spoon + +1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure + that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid + eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a + cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. + +2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. + +3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. + Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on + the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside + to dry. + +4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of + sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, + or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. + +5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold + the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium + chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to + dry. + +6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing + the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the + bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle + in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. + +7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct + liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution + on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, + simply throw it at any hard surface. + +8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH + COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM + CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. + +9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, + and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should + immediately burst into a white flame. + + +3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES + + Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane +stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To +make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would +be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or +other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, +and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and +expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. + + In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized +fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of +the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the +expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with +gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is +less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed +of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective +way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of +the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal +should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, +or any other flammable gas will do nicely. + + During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only +to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar +to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the +fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to +detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to +burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation. + + Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into +fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed in +a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding +rooms, rendering it structurally unsound. + + +3.6 Fun with dry ice... LOTS of fun with dry ice. (from the Usenet.) + + There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is +as follows: + +Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of +Dry Ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a quantity of water. + + Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and +temperature of the bottle the bomb will go off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. +Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go often in 3-7 minutes if +dropped into a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours in open air. + + The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles +and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as do the 2-liters, however glass +bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce dangerous shrapnel. + + Remember, these are LOUD! Dorian, a classmate of mine, set up 10 bottles +in a nearby park without adding water. After the first two went off (there +was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent the +next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's +all around them... + +USES FOR DRY ICE + +Time Bombs: + +1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans + that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister + would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair + amount of effort to open). + Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite + sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back. + Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention + is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere + within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then leave. + Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a + loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when the CO2 + pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid. + In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will proabably + never figure out what made the noise. + +2. Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many + chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the + cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute + (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying water + everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle. + +More things to do with Dry Ice: + + Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it +into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really impressive if the +water is warm enough + + "Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..." + "You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you KEEP +IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire." + + Editor's Note: Dry ice can be a lot of fun, but be forewarned: + + Using anything but plastic to contain dry ice bombs is suicidal. Dry ice +is more dangerous than TNT, because it's extremely unpredictable. Even a +2-liter bottle can produce some nasty shrapnel: One source tells me that he +caused an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that destroyed a metal garbage can. +In addition, it is rumored that several kids have been killed by shards of +glass resulting from the use of a glass bottle. For some reason, dry ice bombs +have become very popular in the state of Utah. As a result, dry ice bombs have +been classified as infernal devices, and possession is a criminal offense. + + +4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES + + Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to +apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to +vandalism, to assassination. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE +CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, +FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive +would take would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed +to do whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his +bomb with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the +device, and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would +be necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it +being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and +build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next +section. + +4.1 SAFETY + + There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak +in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. + + +4.11 HOW NOT TO GET KILLED (Ways to avoid scoring an "Own Goal") + + An "own goal" is the death of a person on your side from one of +your own devices. It is obvious that these should be avoided at all +costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to +err on the side of caution. + + BASIC SAFETY RULES + +1) DON'T SMOKE! (don't laugh- an errant cigarette wiped out the Weathermen) +2) GRIND ALL INGREDIENTS SEPERATELY. It's suprising how friction sensitive + some supposedly "safe" explosives really are. +3) ALLOW for a 20% margin of error- Just because the AVERAGE burning rate of a + fuse is 30 secs/foot, don't depend on the 5 inches sticking out of your + pipe bomb to take exactly 2.5 minutes. +4) OVERESTIMATE THE RANGE OF YOUR SHRAPNEL. The cap from a pipe bomb can + oftentravel a block or more at high velocities before coming to rest- If + you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can kill you. +5) When mixing sensitive compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of + static electricity. Mix the ingredients by the method below: + +4.12 HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS + + The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as +the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do: + +Ingredients: + +1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does + not use staples) + +The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound. + +1) Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in + two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet. +2) Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders + to roll towards the middle of the sheet. +3) By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth + in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill + from either of the loose ends. +4) Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If + it must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work + nicely) and store away from people, houses, and valuable items. + +4.2 IGNITION DEVICES + + There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic +"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive +mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical +detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are +more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an +electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being +caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to +hide. + +4.21 FUSE IGNITION + + The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite +type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse +in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse +is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It +is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 +for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe +bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a +match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the +grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade +ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, +since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare +a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still +retains its simplicity. One such method is described below: + + + MATERIALS + _________ + strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape + waterproof fuse + +1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 + inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the + start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch + when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of + fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This + will be shown below: + + Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of + combustion is 20 seconds. + + 20 seconds / 8 inches = 2.5 seconds per inch. + + If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired + time by the number of seconds per inch: + + 10 seconds / 2.5 seconds per inch = 4 inches + +NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, + AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, + AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! + +2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is + to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut + it off. + +3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not + pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard + base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to + make a second igniter. + +4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches + touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure + not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by + pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to + move. + +5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, + making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker + faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the + matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the + matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. + +(Ill. 4.21) + _____________________ + \ / + \ / ------ match book cover + \ / + | M|f|M ---|------- match head + | A|u|A | + | T|s|T | + | C|e|C | + |tapeH|.|Htape| + | |f| | + |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper + |#####|s|#####| + \ |e| / + \ |.| / + \ |f| / + \ |u| / + |ta|s|pe| + |ta|e|pe| + |.| + |f| + |u| + |s| + |e| + |.| + |_| + + The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. +The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the +matcheads when the match book is pulled. + +6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the + striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. + In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to + the burning match heads. + + +4.21.1 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: + + Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work +with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die +for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the +right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. + + To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 +teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use +cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together +until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn +through very easily. + + Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and +hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a +circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with +the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. +Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through +smoothly in one long motion. + + To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 +degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse +must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. +Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even +dry completely at room temperatures. + +Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight +container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use +a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled +out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be +extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. + + Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the +home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of +boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all +cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, +it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of +the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder +or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the +slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. + + A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of +boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. +The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a +firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry. + + +4.21.2 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK + + Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at +a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can +test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is +removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some +sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at +250 degrees. + + It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning +brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The +melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up +to cool and harden. + + It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. +These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a +moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are +great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. +Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing +unpredictable burning times. + + +4.22 IMPACT IGNITION + + Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous +terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it +must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being +transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a +removable impact initiator. + + The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made +initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such +primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a +cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are +also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package +of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the +way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. +A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: + +(Ill. 4.22) + ________________ + | | + _ | | + | | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| + _______| |^^^^^^^| + | ___________| + | | +no. 11 |_______| +percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing + cap : + here |__________ nipple onto bomb + |____ | + | |^^^^^^^^^| + |_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| + | | + |_________________| + + + When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into +whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed +into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed +on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount +before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The +only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must +strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a +small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when +thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb +with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which +end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the +person carrying the bomb is bumped hard. + + +4.22.1 MAGICUBE IGNITOR + + A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact iniator can be produced from the +common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic +cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has +a small metal rod holding it in place. + + CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently +upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB. + + Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be +effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the +bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the +plastic can be easily peeled away. + + The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based +smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thich glue-like paste. +Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal +rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely +covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the +remainder then ignition should be very reliable. + + To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer +can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air +the appropriate end will hit the ground first. + + +4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION + + Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and +most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition +work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools +of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a +"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that +could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a +device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted +in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation +sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best +electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting +caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in +packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use +them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military +squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they +explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only +burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. +This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, +however, military explosive squibs which will do the job. + +Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, +which in turn, can set of a high order explosive. + + +4.23.1 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE (By Capt. Hack & GW) + + Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it +down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case +of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb +with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will +heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. + + +4.23.2 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE + + Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it +to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and +then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want +about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good +size wire to use. + Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. +Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. +place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the +powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. + The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else +except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the +powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under +on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. + The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. +A single flashlight battery will set this off. + +4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION + + Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of +mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of +switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person +who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it +explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed + +4.24.1 Mercury Switches + + Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal +conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room +temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two +electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's +nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to +explain a mercury switch. + +(Ill. 4.24.1) + ______________ + A / \ B + _____wire +______/_________ \ + \ ( Hg )| / + \ _(_Hg___)|___/ + | + | + wire - | + | + | + + When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both +contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in +its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can +touch both contacts in the horizontal position. + + If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only +touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury +does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This +type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a +swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the +switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt +the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both +contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or +squib in an explosive device. + + +4.24.2 Tripwire Switches + + A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly +invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and +by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. +If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a +tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips +of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between +them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire +can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between +the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When +the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current +to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, +which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the +contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to +explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, +since the spring also conducts electricity. + + +4.243 Radio Control Detonators + + In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled +detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be +several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it +explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with +radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could +possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money +involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such +an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is +visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. +Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach +the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, +or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the +rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the +contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times +with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he +controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the +device became a detonator). + +4.3 DELAYS + + A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set +up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost +quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the +different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be +sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it +does. + + +4.31 FUSE DELAYS + + It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for +ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average +cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine +rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn +quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less +likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or +draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the +ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the +cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of +delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance +to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes +burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all +the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing +the fuse for a device in the hole formed. + +(Ill 4.31) + + |=| + |=| ---------- filter + |=| + | | + | | + |o| ---------- hole for fuse + cigarette ------------ | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + |_| ---------- light this end + +4.31.1 IMPROVED CIGARETTE DELAY (By Atur {THE pyromaniac }) + + A variation on the standard cigarette display was invented by my good +friend Atur (THE Pyromaniac). Rather than inserting the fuse into the SIDE +of the cigarette (and risk splitting it) half of the filter is cut off, and a +small hole is punched THROUGH the remainder of the filter and into the +tobacco. + +(Ill. 4.31.1) + + --------------------------------- + |FIL|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco + fusefusefusefuse Tobacco Tobacco side view + |TER|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco + --------------------------------- + ___ + / \ + | o | filter end view + \___/ (artwork by The Author) + + + The fuse is inserted as far as possible into this hole, then taped or +glued in place, or the cigarette can be cut and punched ahead of time and +lit normally, then attached to the fuse at the scene. + + A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet +of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with +powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a +fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused +with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed +with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A +chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few +bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the +first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party +supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the +fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are +possible. + + +4.32 TIMER DELAYS + + Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who +wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location +and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if +it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By +simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and +using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. +The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an +hour is desired. + + The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set +for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that +in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By +removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a +squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. +All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, +connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic +watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the +watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a +timer could be extremely small. + + The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can +usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the +recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be +connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be +work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or +electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch +would not have to be stepped up. + + +4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS + + Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some +cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England. The +delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the +initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British +citizenry. + + If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped +with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, +then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil +to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be +open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is +forming does not break the container. + +(Ill. 4.33) + _ _ + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |_____________| | + | | | | + | | sulfuric | | + | | | | + | | acid | | + | | | |---------- aluminum foil + | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) + |_________________| + + + The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured +there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used +to ignite an explosive device in several ways. + +1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats + through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the + foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be + able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the + acid. + +2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid + drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium + chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, + or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some + potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this + mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite. + +3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. + + +4.331 MORE SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION + + Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so +they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting +supply. + + METHOD # 1 + Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl +alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately. + + METHOD # 2 + Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four +parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on +top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from +this. + + METHOD # 3 + Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium +peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right. +One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare. + + METHOD # 4 + Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated +nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. +When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame. + +4.4 EXPLOSIVE CASINGS + + This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a +complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which +are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. + + +4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS + + Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was +first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very +simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses +for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in +firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, +and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more +interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown +here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The +process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If +one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and +fold one corner so that it looks like this: + +(Ill 4.41) + ________________________________________________ + | |\ + | | \ + | | \ + |_____________________________________________|___\ + + and then fold it again so that it looks like this: + + ______________________________________________ + | /| + | / | + | / | + |________________________________________/___| + + A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, +pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the +quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. +A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful +not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it +should be taped together very tightly, since this will increase the strength +of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is +lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick +triangle, like the one shown below: + + +(Ill. 4.41) + ^ + / \ ----- securely tape all corners + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \____________________________ + /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse + + +4.42 METAL CONTAINERS + + The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained +explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match +heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- +tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills +the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause +enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode +the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and +the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. +Regular matches may still be ignited by friction, but it is far less likely +than with "strike-anywhere" matches. + + He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe. First, he would drill a +hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and +so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an +inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on +tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He +would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he +would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very +top, carefully pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and +pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it would not move +any further. + + Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue +paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads +of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which +might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled +bomb is shown in fig. 4.42 + +(Ill. 4.42) + ________ ________ + | _____|________________________________|_____ | + | |__________________________________________| | + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| + | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- + | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | |________|_________________________________| | + | |__________________________________________| | + |______| |______| + + endcap pipe endcap + w/ hole + + fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. + + The metal caps are VERY difficult to drill holes in, it is much easier to +drill a hole into the middle of the pipe (BEFORE FILLING IT!!!) and place the +fuse there. Lionel (a friend of mine) has had great success with this design. +After detonating one of these inside a cookie tin, he found the lid about 1/2 +block away, the sides of the tin blown out, and an impression of the pipe +(which was later found blown flat) threads and all on the bottom of the tin... +it seems that the welded seam gives out on most modern rolled pipes, however a +cast pipe (no seam) would produce more shrapnel (which may or may not be +desirable). + + This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he +did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece +of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. +A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without +tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it +will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of +copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. + +4.42.1 PIPE BOMBS FROM SOFT METAL PIPES + + First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making +sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be +folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should +be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be +inserted. + + Next, the bomb- builder would partially fill the casing with a low order +explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then +flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was +not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and +bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is +presented below: + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #1) + ________ + _______________________________________________/| | +| | o | | +|______________________________________________ | | + \_|______| + + fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #2) + ______ + ____________________________________________/ | | + | | | + | o | | + |___________________________________________ | | + \__|__| + + fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) + +(Ill. 4.42.1 #3) + ____________ fuse hole + v + _______________________________ ______ + | \ |___ | + | \____| | + | ______| + | / + |_____________________________/ + + fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) + + +4.42.2 CARBON DIOXIDE "Pellet Gun" or Seltzer cartridges. + + A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low- +order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. +But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a +pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2 +cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning +fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called +"crater makers". + + From personal experience, I have found that a CO2 cartridge is easiest to +fill if you take a piece of paper and tape it around the opening to form a +sort of funnel: + +(Ill 4.42.2) + +A full \ / Use a punch or sharp philips (+) screwdriver to +cartridge \ / enlarge the pin-hole opening on a used cartridge. +can also be \ / +fun- @ It doesn't seem to be neccessary to seal the hole, + / \ but if you must do so, Epoxy and electrical tape +toss it into | | work quite well. +a lite fire | | +and it will (__) CONDENSATION may form inside a recently used +explode, and bottle- if you must use one right after emptying +the CO2 may it, heat it in a warm oven to dry it out. +extinguish the flames. + + A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermite incendiary +device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so +that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The +fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the +thermite . + +4.42.3 PRIMED EXPLOSIVE CASINGS + + + The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low- +order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the +latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller +low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order +explosive would probably be used. + +(Ill. 4.42.3) + _____________________________________ + | _ | + | / \ | + | High Explosive filler |LO ======= + | \_/ | + |____________________________________| + + + If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, +then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, +which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. + +4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS + + Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are +problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily +compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely +event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be +seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample +perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still +has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his +ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... + + Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a +demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal +detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill +the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly +in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. + +(Ill. 4.43) + ________________________ fuse + | + | + | + _____|_____ + | ___|___ | + | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; + | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap | > + | < | < | + | | | + | | + | | + | | screw cap on bottle + | | + | | + V_________V + + Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, +since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive +that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger +than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for +high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand +the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was +able to detonate. + +4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS + + Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since +they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping +can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones +used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with +plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not +detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by +heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be +glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used +as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a +drying agent works best in this type of device. + +(Ill. 4.44) || || + || || + ||\_____________/|| + || || + || epoxy || + ||_______________|| + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||** explosive **|| + ||***************|| + ||***********----------------------- fuse + ||***************|| + ||ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + || || + || epoxy || + || _____________ || + ||/ \|| + || || + || || + + + One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the +device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of +tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC +pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had +an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be +used in this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. + + In my experience, epoxy plugs work well, but epoxy is somewhat expensive. +One alternative is auto body filler, a grey paste which, when mixed with +hardener, forms into a rock-like mass which is stronger than most epoxy. The +only drawback is the body filler generates quite a bit of heat as it hardens, +which might be enough to set of a overly sensitive explosive. One benefit of +body filler is that it will hold it's shape quite well, and is ideal for +forming rocket nozzles and entire bomb casings. + + +4.44.1 FILM CANISTERS (By Bill) + +For a relatively low shrapnel explosion, I suggest pouring it into an empty +35mm film cannister. Poke a hole in the plastic lid for a fuse. These +goodies make an explosion audible a mile away easily. + +1) Poke the hole before putting the flash powder into the cannister. +2) Don't get any powder on the lip of the cannister. +3) Only use a very small quantity and work your way up to the desired + result. +4) Do not pack the powder, it works best loose. +5) Do not grind or rub the mixture - it is friction sensitive. +6) Use a long fuse. + + Bill + + +4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES + + The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person +who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this +information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. +Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a +minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost +always involve high- order explosives. + +4.51 SHAPED CHARGES + + A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the +explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used +to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of +pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order +explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL +EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! + + An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + +(Ill. 4.51) + + wire ________ _______ - wire + _ _________|_________|____________ + ^ | ________|_________|__________ | + | | | | | | | + | | | \ igniter / | | + | | | \_______/ | | + | | | priming charge | | + | | | (mercury fulminate) | | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | / \ | | + 8 inches high | | / \ | | + | | / high \ | | + | | | / explosive \ | | + | | | / charge \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch + | | | / \ | | thick steel + | | | / \ | | pipe + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | hole for | | | | hole for + | screw | | | | screw + V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ + |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| + + |<------- 8 inches -------->| + + If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would +direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the +opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in +the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A +device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a +powerful electromagnet. + + +4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES + + A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that +shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a +sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive +container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be +produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This +type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a +telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely +destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive +would look like this: + +(Ill. 4.52) + ||\____/|| + || epoxy|| + ||------|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||______|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || RDX || + ||*____*|| + ||*| s|*|| + ||*| q|*|| + ||*| u|*|| + ||*| i|*|| + ||*| b|*|| + ||*| b|*|| + ||*|__|*|| + ||__||__|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||--||--|| + || epoxy|| + || || || + ||/ || \|| + || || || + ||_______ + wire ______________ + |________ - wire ______________ + + + When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it +around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube +bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, +and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. + + +4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS + + If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small +particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion +similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The +tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, +pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and +ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would +push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized +particle explosion. + + If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable +substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or +other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be +extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon +jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the +charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If +this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would +surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to +accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. +Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary +that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a +low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the +flammable material. + + +4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS + + An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the +light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead +light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes +with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the +lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a +lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must +be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue +gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other +bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or +oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down +to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive +material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base, +it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the +bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the +bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a +working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into +the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much +success, since few people would search the room for a bomb without first +turning on the light. + + +4.55 BOOK BOMBS + + Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where +perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by +authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to +set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called +a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. + + Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the +hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, +large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a +bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place +where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb +can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First, +all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire +container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the bucket +with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of +the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled +to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the pages +of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be +thoroughly soaked. + + It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to +the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both +covers and clamping the pages together in a vise works best. When the pages +dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now +rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the +coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle +of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The +pages, when drilled out, should look like this: + +(Ill. 4.55) + ________________________ + | ____________________ | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |__________________| | + |______________________| + + (book covers omitted) + + This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. +After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled +variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever +timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from +rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio +control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is +taken to its destination. + + +4.56 PHONE BOMBS + + The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to +kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the +person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high +explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the +current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the +high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is +acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. + + Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's +leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section +3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is +surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. + + When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, +he will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow +through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a +phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the +tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the +device explodes... + +4.56.1 IMPROVED PHONE BOMB (from Dave R.) + + The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig the +device as follows: + + _________ FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL + /|-------|\ Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece, + ~ | | ~ (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive + @@@@@@@@ the full line power, not just the audio power to the earpiece) + @@@@@@@@@@ + @@@@@@@@@@ Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back + in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the + circuit to the detonator.... + + +5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS + + Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social +deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over +individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to +kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from +crossbows to shotguns. + + +5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS + + For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive +that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This +means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. + + +5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION + + Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is +extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter +to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum +piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire +segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates +upon impact, or with a fuse. + + All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and +diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube +with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to +about 1/2 an inch from the top. + + Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the +tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 +percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue or epoxy. + + Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and +make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and +glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: + +(Ill. 5.11) + ____________ +___|____________\____________________ +\ ---. +/__ ________________________________---` + |____________/ + + + When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap explodes, +igniting or detonating the explosive. + + +5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS + + The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A +blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or +poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is +not difficult. To acquire a blowgun, please contact the editor at one of the +addresses given in the introduction. + + Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, +such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill +capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores. Next, the capsule +would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury fulminate. +An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact +sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used. + + Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel +or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure +that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. + + Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the +tassel or cotton, and look something like this: + +(Ill. 5.12) + ____________________ + /mercury | \----------------------- + (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels + \________|___________/----------------------- + + + Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could +easily blow the back of your head off. + + +5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS + + A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble +about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be +lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the +relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the +wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. + + A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating +device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. + + Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted +with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to +make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did +not explode before it reached its intended target. + + Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber +blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they +must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. + + +5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS + + When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and +rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with +a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be +difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There +is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition +is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the +slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For +this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. + + +5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS + + If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her +handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive +explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, +and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole +in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of +an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in +the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed +exploding bullet is shown below. + +(Ill. 5.21) + _o_ ------------ drop of wax + /|*|\ + | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive + | |_| | + |_____| + + This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. + + In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing +"exploding bullets" by placing a drop of mercury in the nose of a bullet. +Through experimentation it has been found that this will not work. Mercury +reacts with lead to form a inert silvery compound. + + +5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS + + Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some +extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell +is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, +if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the +bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched +weapons. + + Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the +shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end +of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. + + Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. +This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect +4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it +must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel +back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the +dowel. + + Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire +the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are +possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: + +(Ill. 5.22) ____ + || | + || | + || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel + || | + ||__| + || | + || | ------- fuse + || | + || + || + || + || --------- dowel + || + || + || + || --------- insert this end into shotgun + || + || + + Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used- use of regular blank +ammunition may cause the device to land perilously close to the user. + + +5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS + + This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for +compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, +and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids +toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. + + +5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS + + A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or +pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber +of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a +muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 +caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made +that has a caliber of .177. + + Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to +ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, +since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when +struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown +at a hard surface at a great speed. + + Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are +inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard +surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as +that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, +and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: + +(Ill. 5.31) + _____ primers _______ + | | + | | + | | + V V + ______ ______ + | ________________________ |------------------- + | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or + | ________________________ |------------------- cotton + |_____ _____|------------------- + ^ + | + | + |_______ antenna tubing + + The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The +tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. +Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to +insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile +should be about 3/4 of an inch long. + + + +5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS + + A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at +close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be +adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in +section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or +smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one +would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition +primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 +cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. + + +6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS + + Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. +Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are +difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to +make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such +things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to +fear. + + +6.1 ROCKETS + + Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before +the myth of christ began. They were used for entertainment, in the form of +fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were +inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets +are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have +no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military +rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular +hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, +a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket +engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 +lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a +significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger +rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket +engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most +model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help +explain them. + +(Ill. 6.1) + _________________________________________________________ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing + \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| + _______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| + / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| + /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + casing + + + The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled +"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a +propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of +hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket +forward. + + After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is +ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that +has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, +white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be +seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. + + When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". +The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, +exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the +parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a +bomb... + + Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine +labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an +indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" +engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The +number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in +pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the +thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" +indicates a 3 second delay. + +NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum + dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. + The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. + + +6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB + + A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered +to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device +would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from +balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" +engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater +maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure +that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over +the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. +The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. + +(Ill. 6.11 #1) + + ____________ rocket engine + | _________ crater maker + | | + | | + V | + _______________________________V_ + |_______________________________| ______________________ + \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ + \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ + __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) + / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / + /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ + |_______________________________| + + thrust> - - - - - - + smoke> *** + ejection charge> :::: + + + Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket +engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge +Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such +as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. + + Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that +the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: + +(Ill. 6.11 #2) + + |\ + | \ + | \ + | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine + | \ + | \ + | \ + | | + | | + | | + leading edge | + -------> | + | | + | | trailing edge + | | <-------- + | | + | | + | | + | | + \_____/ + + + The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so +that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two +inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch +it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment +of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the +fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. + +(Ill. 6.11 #3) + | + fin | <------ fin + | | | + | | | + | __|__ | + V / \ V + ---------------| |--------------- + \_____/ + |o <----------- segment of plastic straw + | + | + | <------ fin + | + | + + By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a +launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is +simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic +straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one +illustated on the following page: + +(Ill. 6.11 #4) + ____ + / \ + | | + cut here _____ | + | | + | | + | / \ + V / \ + _________________/ \________________ + / \ + / \ + /____________________________________________\ + ^ + | + | + and here ______| + + + Bend wire to this shape: + +(Ill. 6.11 #5) + _______ insert into straw + | + | + | + V + ____________________________________________ + \ + \ + \ + \ + \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle + | + | + | + | + | + | <---------- put this end in ground + | + + +6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB + + Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model +rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in +multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of +such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection +charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an +"0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and +burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the +thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing +an overall loss of weight. + + The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as +travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed +somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket +to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. +This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving +the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the +rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: + +(Ill. 6.12) + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker + | | + | | + |___| + | | + | | + | | + | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine + /| 6 |\ + / | | | \ + / | 5 | \ + / |___| \ ---- fin + / /| |\ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | C | \ \ + | / | 6 | \ | + | / | | | \ | + | / | 0 | \ | + |/ |___| \| + | / \ | + \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin + | + | + | + | + C6-0 rocket engine + + The fuse is put in the bottom engine. + + Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it +a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the +fin area gets larger. + + + +6.2 CANNON + + The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th +century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, loaded, +and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, +otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the +barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, +if he/she had a small sum of money, and some patience. + + +6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON + + A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only +difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. +This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or +aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick +to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. + + If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile +can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such +a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very +smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. +Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or +tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the +crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two +teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by +ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. +Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. +If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will +not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: + +(Ill. 6.21 #1) + __________________ fuse hole + | + | + V + ________________________________________________________________ + | |_____________________________________________________________| + |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge + | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ + |_|______________________________________________________________| + + An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 +cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and +construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the +cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except +for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a +tissue paper packing wad. + +(Ill. 6.21 #2) + ___ + When the cannon is fired, it ( ) +will ignite the end of the |C | +fuse, and shoot the CO2 | M| +cartridge. The | | +explosive-filled cartridge | | +will explode in about three \ / +seconds, if all goes well. [] <--- taped fuse +Such a projectile would look [] +like this: [] + ! <--- Bare fuse (add matchheads) +6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON + +(Ill. 6.22) + ___ A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a + / \ normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A + | | rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket + | C | alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the + | M | initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is + | | moving will go further than one that is launched when it + | | is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal + |___| rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look + | E | like the image to the left. + | N | + | G | the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, + | I | but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection + | N | charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection + | E | charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb + |___| explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the + burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and + simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high + velocity. + + +6.23 REINFORCED PIPE CANNON (added by Loren) + +In high school, a friend and I built cannons and launched CO2 cartridges, etc, +etc. However, the design of the cannon is what I want to add here. + +It was made from plain steel water pipe, steel wire, and lead. + +Here is a cross section: + +(Ill. 6.23) + _______ + | | + | xxxxx_____________________________________________ 2" ID pipe + | |_________________________________________________ + | | .................... <- steel wire } + | | _____ } 3/4" ID pipe +this | | | xxx______________________________________}_________________ +wire | | | |__________________________________________________________ +holds | |....| | +it up |>|....| | +in the| | | |__________________________________________________________ +cooker| | | xxx________________________________________________________ + | | |____ } + | | ..................... } <- cast lead + | |_______________________________________________}_ + | | _____________________________________________ + | xxxxx + |_____| + + + We dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of firebrick. +Then we stood the assembled pipe and wire on end in the chimney, sitting on +some bricks. We then had a blowtorch heating up the chimney, so that the pipe +was red hot. Then we poured molten lead into the space between the pipes. If +the caps aren't screwed on real tight, some of the lead will leak out. If +that happens, turn off the blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and the +lead will stiffen and stop the leak. + + We used homemeade and commercial black powder, and slow smokeless shotgun +powder in this thing. After hundreds of shots we cut it up and there was no +evidence of cracks or swelling of the inner pipe. + + Loren + + +7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA + + There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of violence +might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large military +smoke bombs can be bought through ads in gun and military magazines. Also, +fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display rocket +would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the +ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, +which consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running +through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive +high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the +sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large +crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. + + +7.1 SMOKE BOMBS + + One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in +many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway +route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it +to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of +a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the +military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, +such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped +terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. + + Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such +as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will +burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to +burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a +base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has +a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other +excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground +plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be +mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of +the fuel-oxodizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke +when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The +trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic +cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the +smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to +burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic +containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, +producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion. + +7.11 SIMPLE SMOKE (By Zaphod) + + The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this + reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary + + 6 pt. ZINC POWDER + 1 pt. SULFUR POWDER + Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. + + +7.2 COLORED FLAMES + + Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by +putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the +ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that +produce the different colors of flames appear below. + +COLOR MATERIAL USED IN + +red strontium road flares, + salts red sparklers + (strontium + nitrate) + +green barium salts green sparklers + (barium nitrate) + +yellow sodium salts gold sparklers + (sodium nitrate) + +blue powdered copper blue sparklers, + old pennies + +white powdered magnesium firestarters, + or aluminum aluminum foil + +purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, + treating sewage + +7.3 TEAR GAS + + A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it +with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to +make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize +its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. + + EQUIPMENT FOR MAKING TEAR GAS + _________ + + 1. ring stands (2) 7. clamp holder + 2. alcohol burner 8. condenser + 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 9. rubber tubing + 4. clamps (2) 10. collecting flask + 5. rubber stopper 11. air trap + 6. glass tubing 12. beaker, 300 ml + + MATERIALS + _________ + + 10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water + +1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms +of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. + +2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. + +3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. + +4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a + brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. + Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is + corrosive. + +5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the + collecting flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a + safe place. + + +7.4 FIREWORKS + + While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, +they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several +basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, +profit, or nasty uses. + + +7.41 FIRECRACKERS + + A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The +instructions are below: + +1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. + "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. + +2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with + epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. + Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package. + +3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a + desired length of fuse. + +4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, + pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or + any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the + tube almost to the top. + +5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a + pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more + epoxy. + +6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it + to dry. + +7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash + powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing + the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the + explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks + of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of + the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks + will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or + from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. + + Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode + with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. + + First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material + inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. + + Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. + (NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, + AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash + powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small + balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag + overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. + Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was + satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker. + +8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to + semi-professional displays can be produced. + + +7.42 SKYROCKETS + + An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from +model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. + +1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that + the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) + +2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the + engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue. + +3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder + is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least + half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about + 1/2 an inch. + +4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various + types of effects can be produced. + +5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, + spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be produced. + + 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the + fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. + + +7.43 ROMAN CANDLES + + Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to +make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well +worth the trouble. + +1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several + layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube + from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths. + +2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the + drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. + +3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a + desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly. + +4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube. + +5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. + Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of + pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% + flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one + drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. + + This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when + left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. + Allow the ball to dry. + +6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly + easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently + against the ball with a pencil. + +7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a + safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored + fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This + height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step + 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. + +8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. + +9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, + producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. + + +8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION + + Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained +through a public or university library. There are also many publications that +are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to +make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary +magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of +places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also +includes fireworks companies and the like. + + +COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, + P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING + MURFREESBORO, TN + 37133 + + UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE + BOX 1378-SN + HERMISTON, OREGON + 97838 + + AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH + SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES + DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328 + + BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, + 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES + P.O. BOX 226 + PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 + + CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS + P.O. BOX 22927 + ROCHESTER, NEW YORK + 14692 + + R. ALLEN PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION + P.O. BOX 146 BOOKS & FORMULAS + WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090 + + MJ DISTRIBUTING FIREWORKS FORMULAS + P.O. BOX 10585 + YAKIMA,WA 98909 + + EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, + 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES + RENO, NEVADA + 89509 + + + COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451 + JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN + 53547 + + NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 + STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT + 06095 + + RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 + EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 + + STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW + WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD + RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 + + WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS + P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) + ROCHESTER, INDIANA 46975 + +BOOKS +ÄÄÄÄÄ +THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK (highly inaccurate) + +THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL (formulas work, but put maker at risk) + +MILITARY EXPLOSIVES + + + Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly +useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or +"Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, it's in the office). This is a +$60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus +demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. + +9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS + + In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she +wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the +chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order +of priority would probably resemble the following: + + LIQUIDS SOLIDS + _______ ______ + + ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate + ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate + ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) + ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate + ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium + ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum + ____ Potassium Permanganate + GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of) + _______ ____ Mercury + ____ Potassium Nitrate + ____ Hydrogen ____ Potassium Hydroxide + ____ Oxygen ____ Phosphorus + ____ Chlorine ____ Sodium Azide + ____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Lead Acetate + ____ Barium Nitrate + +10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY + + In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic +ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge +of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following +reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school +chemistry book. + + +1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide +K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O + 4 4 2 + +2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide + " + HNO ----> KNO + " + 3 3 + +3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " + 3 4 3 4 +4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " + 3 3 3 3 + +5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium + +A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H + 3 2 + +B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al + 3 2 + + The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container +which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and +sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high +explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great +excess. + +11.0 ABOUT THE EDITOR + + The current editor is presently attending a small midwestern college. He +has never been convicted, tried or charged with a crime, and will never admit +to having commited any one of the 87 assorted misdemeanors and felonies (not +counting multiple counts, such as the 103 dry ice bombs) which one might +accuse him of. V.T. (The EDITOR) + +11.1 ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + While in high school, the original author became affiliated with CHAOS, and +eventually became the head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at +age 18, he produced his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep +crater in an associate's back yard. He had also produced many types of +rockets, explosive ammunition, and other pyrotechnic devices. + + While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, he was injured when a +home made device exploded in his hand; he did not make the device. The author +learned, however, and then decided to reform, and although he still +constructs an occasional explosive device, he chooses to abstain from their +production. + +END OF PART 1 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST + + + WARNING: The second part of this book consists of untested and quite + possibly DANGEROUS plans, formulas and information. Under NO + circumstances should the reader even consider attempting to carry + out any of the procedures outlined below. + + THE EDITOR (V.T.) + +PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons +------ Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of + 15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing! + + Addendum by The Editor: If you aren't in the Chicago area, + check a local BBS list. If you see a BBS which runs under UNIX, + odds are it carries usenet. The appropriate place to look is + rec.pyrotechnics. + +At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather +than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a bunch +of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or +more. + + At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes +punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a small hole in the side at +the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it +reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then +placed therein. + + In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic +solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and +sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics, +we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato +chips provided spectacular entertainment. + + Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole +in the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The +"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it. + +BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that! +---------- + + Our version of the potato chip cannon, originally designed around the +Pringles potato chip can, was built similarly. Ours used coke cans, six with +the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had Bottle opener holes all +around one end, the top of this can was covered with a grid or piece of wire +screening to keep the tennis ball from falling all the way to the bottom. +This was spiral wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape. + + A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For +ignition we used lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push +button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way +back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of +two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through the other hole. + + We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When fired +with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range the +ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle. Closer up +the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a +moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside. +Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls. + +PART 4 + More Fun Stuff for Terrorists + + Carbide Bomb + +This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium +carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at +nearly any hardware store. + Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a +glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with +the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in +cutting torches. + Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a +burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! + Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower + +For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. +Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby +drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is +regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The +other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. +With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be +careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 +feet!!! + +PART 5- This is all various files I gleaned from BBS's. (Added 8-23-90) + + Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas +that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the balloon +tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones +that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get +the picture? Good... + + OPENING COMBO LOCKS + +[ Touched up by V.T - The Editor ] + + First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock +is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on +the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that is pushed in to the lock +when you lock it. + + To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired +combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the +lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock +without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps +when you don't know the combination to begin with). + + To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or +a opened out piece of a collapsing antenna (the inside diameter of the curved +piece of metal should be the same as the diameter of the shackle- if the metal +is too thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down. + + Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side +and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight +side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file +down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many +hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can jimmy +various locks. + + Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, +you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens +from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the +horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. + + Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the +crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the +pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to open. + + Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a +Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone +does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very +tight so ya can't get the shim in. + + PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS + WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER + + Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers, +principals and other people who are justassholes. depending on your level of +hatred of this person i would advise that you do some of these following +experiments: + + (1) Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already +know that gasoline + dishsoap(e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture +called napalm. now napalm is a jelly-like substance used in bombs, +flamethrowers, etc. now you can only guess what this mixture would do to +someone's fuel line!!!! + + (2) Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe- when +the exhaust pipe heats up(and it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe +will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car. +Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!! + + (3) Light Bulb Bomb- see part one of the file + + (4) Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under +the name flowers of sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very +strong odor and plenty of smoke. now all you need is a fuse from a +firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack very +lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into +the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value +your lungs. you can find many uses for this( or at least i hope so. + + FUN WITH ALARMS + + A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can +also use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. You can +purchase this at any hardware store as insulation. it is easy to handle and +dries faster. + +Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. this alarm is a small +device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his +body capacitance sets off the alarm. these nasty nuisences can be found by +walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly. +if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal +object to the knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think +someone is breaking in and call room service for help. all sorts of fun and +games will ensue. + + Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a +registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most +use three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from +all fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. after the keypad +has been used just apply finger print dust and all four digits will be marked. +now all you have to do is figure out the order. if you want to have some fun +with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same time. many units use this +as a panic button. This will bring the owner and the cops running and ever-one +will have a good time. never try to remove these panels from the wall, as +they have built-in tamper switches. + + On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liqour +stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip. these little nasties are +placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are +with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that's why when you make +your withdrawl it's best to help yourself so you can check for these little +nasties. if you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of +twenties, and then pull out the twenties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind +to prevent the circuit from closing. + + SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: + + THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON + + This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. the bottom of a +soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or other +explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is +then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. + + ! ! After first making sure there are no + ! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine + ! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put into the straw and the can is set + ---- ---- down by a tree or wall where it will not + ! !1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give + ! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will then + !* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby. + ! ! ! ! + ! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER + ! ! !% ! + ! ==== ! + ! ! + ! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone would + ! --- ! pick up and drink from someone else's + ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft drink can. but if such a crude + ! / ! person should try to drink from your + ! ! bomb he would break a nasty habit + --------- fast! + + + Pyro Book ][ by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf + +TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE + +1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can. +2) add a few drops of glycerine +3) wait 3-4 min. +4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame.. + +** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple] +** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy... +** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts] + + +EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER + +INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the +attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would +like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how +to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does +it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the +resourses and materials available to you. + + Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because +they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is +going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials +that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you +need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting +point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a +small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a +firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is +easy. + + HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL + + This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume +Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of +this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step +back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest +a lot of experiments for this. + + ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL + + Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you +experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful +explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast +burning rate. + + --- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be +harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. +I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been +instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in +certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, +Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be +notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you +need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out +something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I +am guessing you would prefer it that way. + + + HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES + + Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; +then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets +easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for +a bomb without dying of boredom. + Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of +black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that +gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A +science teacher was killed that way. + Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you +can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your +thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly +against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 +feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat +to light the match. + + Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper +match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. +Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, +the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. + + I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are +made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws +off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff +wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of +wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. +It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets +hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. + + + HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID + + Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should +only cost a few dollars. What you will get is about a gallon of dilute +sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The +glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. + + Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until +white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot +plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass +container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no +metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb +moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time +bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and +follow me into the next installment. + + HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE: + + To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts +by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the +mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a +spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid +in the depression and step back. + It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. +To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a +small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the +clorate/sugar mixture. + Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos +fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric +acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite +the mixture. + The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying +how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react +with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the +side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and +used to set off the device of your choice. + + Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can +be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them +extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. +But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have +decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but +for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. + + + PEROXYACETONE + + PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK + SENSITIVE. + +MATERIALS- + 4ML ACETONE + 4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE + 4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID + 150MM TEST TUBE + +Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops +concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to +appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 +celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and +filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To +ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at +least a meter away) . + +I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical +demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some +experiments. + ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! + + +THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG + + This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting +experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work +depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and +brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some +knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. + + I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this +information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who +are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. + +I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION + +VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE +DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE +AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID +TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE +MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE +RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!) + + + GENERATING CHLORINE GAS + + This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you +shouild know what you're doing before you try this... + + Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach', +and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something +like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and +put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since +the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use +large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!). + + + CHLORINE + TURPENTINE + + Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the +bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start +burning... + + GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS + + To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react +with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, +etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter +than air.... light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*. + + Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this +involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric +current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two +test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking +6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of +water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside +them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some +wire going down to the electrodes. + + This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the +oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon +electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the +chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to +form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some +sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than +making the water conduct electricity. + +WARNING: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC + inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and + Oxygen at each electrode. + + + HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE + + Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it +inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted +with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The +hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity +and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not +react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is +turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react... + + PREPARATION OF OXYGEN + + Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from +a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off +oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. + + Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the +bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things +to burn better... + + IODINE + + Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To +seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat +it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the +tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol +should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine +crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't +tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen +triiodide. + ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! + + I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react +to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with +rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and +possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches) + + David Richards + + + TRIPWIRES + by The Mortician + + Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about +landmines... If you can't then here is the concept. + + You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that +will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt +battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can +create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this. + + ------------------>+ batery + steel || ->- batery + wool || / + :==:--- <--fuse \ + || / + ---- spst switch--\ + + So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or +igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light. + Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of +wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the +explosive. + + Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury +it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie +one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a +loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that +when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive. + + To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and +find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques... +On my board... (201)376-4462 + + + BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame) + + Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, +and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby +trap. + + There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise +remains the same. What you'll need: + + 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to + bend easily (galvanized iron works well) + 6 feet of wire or fishing line + 5-15 feet of strong string or rope + 1 really sick mind. + + Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so +they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30 +degrees. + + Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your +nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or +string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string +so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail +between the two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others +(see diagrams) + + bent nails + / || ^ slight upward tension +# /\ || +#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on) +# ------!----()------ +# trip wire + \ / +Trunk third nail + + Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the +other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a +stump etc). + + When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your +sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing +pin). + + There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be +attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip +wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two +bent nails. + + A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a +hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is +attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring. + + || +*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------* + SPRING BOLT Trip wire + + With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if +it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled. + + + Improvised Explosives +Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich + +CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT KILLING + HIS/HER SELF IN THE PROCESS. + + This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive +exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C + + Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It +needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by +treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. +C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. + + This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking +with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper +reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium +chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that +it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that +the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that +the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene +glycol. + + It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. +Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the +chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this +explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good +idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final +explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine: + +Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5% + + In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with +the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to +shock as is nitroglycerin. + The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix +these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This +kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when +the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use +this explosive as soon as possible. + + If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This +explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very +powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent. + + These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the +manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and +ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use +them. + Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with +an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been +made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very +few mis haps. + Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the +stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of +nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an +anvil. + Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I +mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any +doubts DON'T. + +Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich + + This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive +compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled +and absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's +its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and +kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. + + This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. +It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an +artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar +but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in +approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). + + This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric +acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified +aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the +final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be +taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric +acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin +and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. +They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. + + To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but +buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine +consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this +powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will +dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that +was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount +than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the +alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex +dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of +crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. + + Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and +dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat +to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric +frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good +cooking oil. + +When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, +that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This +next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a +good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any +procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding +58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in +the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas +(nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. + + The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until +the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the +beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is +allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped +slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow +crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in +200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then +the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, +very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and +places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. +This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. + + The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder +consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax +and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the +crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. +This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The +detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but +simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work +requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for +shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive +as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again +this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. + + AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF +INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE +RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. +THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH +ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE +UP AS NEEDED. + + +Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich + + This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and +explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main +explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, +and other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively +safe to manufacture. + + One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, +sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures +that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively +while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as +just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is +not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause +the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and +yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives +are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. + + To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite +solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large +pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium +chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in +the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 +g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this +solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading +is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). + + When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator +until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals +that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on +the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have +formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. + + Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and +mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml. +distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. +Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process +if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should +be relatively pure potassium chlorate. + + Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to +drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax. +Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on +90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a +plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately +mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, +dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. + + This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density +(1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges +guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not +suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low +detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be +considered the same for the sake of charge computation. + + If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the +manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the +wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The +addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation +velocity is 3300 m/sec.. + + +Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound By the Lich + + This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of +production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure +product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. + + In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water +and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium +chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice +due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate. + + This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the +ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or +equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process +mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation +reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. +H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough +boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky +substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this +chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling +hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed. + + This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid +left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution +reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear +filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water +evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. + + These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to +drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to +a very fine powder (400 mesh). + + If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization +is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the +resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The +powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with +vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO +FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in +this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower +detonation velocity. + + This explosive is composed of the following: + + potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10% + + Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline +carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is +used) should not be exposed to water or moisture. + + The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of +2-3% aluminum substituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this +aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will +ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this +explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. +for the sodium salt based explosive. + +Addendum 4/12/91: + + It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume +that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and +that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline. + + +ASSORTED NASTIES: + + Sweet-Oil + In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. if +you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil +out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure +that I did some damage. + + Slow Air + Ok, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her +tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there +tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is +blows out on the road wih a razor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't +cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and +cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out +at a high speed if your lucky. + + Vanishing Paint + Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his +paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. +Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough. + + Loose Wheel + Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off. This +can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off. + + Dual Neutral + This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On +the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts +and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could +chip some of the teeth off the gears. + + Un-Midaser + Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust +so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on +transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you +work the more you fuck them over. + + + LAUGHING GAS + +Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of +the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the +patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing. +Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. + + Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is +because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were +inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. + The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of +the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag +under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! + To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply +house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. + + First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you +evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy +brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when +a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. + + When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break +it up and store it in a bottle. + + A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading +into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. + + When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If +white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. + + When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. + +CAUTION: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it. It's + easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing + reflex doesn't know it. Do not put your head in a plastic bag + (duhh...) because you will cheerfully choke to death. + + PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS + + Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years +by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or +to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any +danger of apprehension. + + They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to +force out the spent shell. + + There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. + + First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest +in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong +tape. + + The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger +flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The +trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. + + The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe +with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing +through the pipe. + + The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through +it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass +through the hole and rest on the primer. + + To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with +the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the +trigger and the thing actually fires. + + Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. +All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. + + Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. +For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas +line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the +firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a +wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of +steel pipe with threads and a cap. + + Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. +The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second +accomodates its wider powder chamber. + + A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to +comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. + + Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has +a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small +nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the +front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought +around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. + + In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it +by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to +where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go +off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel +does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings +may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use. + + +Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon + +Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book + 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l + +Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! +I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes +only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their +fucking school to kingdom scum! + + Astrolite + +The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant +research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most +powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than +TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it +isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. + + Astrolite G +"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very +high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for +nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual +characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed +easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite +G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was +soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! + + To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) + Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight +'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that +the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough, +that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' +hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous... + + Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting +hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic +hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization +catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic +developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be +careful with. + + Astrolite A/A-1-5 +Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with +hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has +a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. + + Misc. info +You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens +though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be +able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. + + + Sodium Chlorate Formulas + +Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a +substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find +sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used +in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. + + Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder + +65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top. + + Rocket Fuel +6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement. + + Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) + +50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand), +10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur + +You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. + + Incendiary Mixture +55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur + + Impact Mixture +50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate + +Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when +mix- ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. + + Filler explosive +85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder + + Nitromethane formulas +I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite. + +Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139 +flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f + +Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. +Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, +fats, etc. + +To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: + +1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline + +Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. + + Nitromethane 'solid' explosives +2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) + +soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is +supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, +and has 30% more brilliance. + + The Firey Explosive Pen Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us + + Materials Needed Here's a GREAT little trick to play on + 1] One Ball Point `Click` pen your best fiend (no thats not a typo) at + 2] Gun Powder skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a + 3] 8 or 10 match heads friend! + 4] 1 Match stick + 5] a sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2") + +1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top. +2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little + parts and the ink fill was. +3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker. +4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on + the inside on the sand paper. +5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where + the ball point comes out. +6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is + to keep the powder from spilling. + +The Finished pen should look like this: + + Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \ + | | + \ | | + \ _________________|____________________|________ + <_______________________________|_______________|=== + +call the RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs' at (312) 528-5020 + + + MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! By Phucked Agent! + +Materials: + +1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off switch + + It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this one +or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces! + +1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up. +2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord +3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!) +4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching +the Hot-spot contact. +5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off! +6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket. +7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!! + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom1_5.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom1_5.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..0b3bb6af --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom1_5.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3726 @@ +From: dr@ripco.com (David Richards) +Subject: TBBOM 1.5 (NEW RELEASE) 1/3 +Summary: The Big Book of Mischief Version 1.5 (DOS ANSI) +Keywords: The Book, interim Release +Date: 16 Feb 94 04:38:15 GMT +Sender: dr@ripco.com + +AUTHOR: David Richards +TITLE: The Big Book Of Mischief +EDITION:Interim release (1.5) from DTP file +FORMAT: ASCII (MS-DOS),tabs are 8 spaces. + +RESTRICTIONS: This file may be freely redistributed in electronic form + with these conditions: + + It may not be excerpted or modified in ANY WAY other than + character conversion for different computer systems. + + NO FEE MAY BE CHARGED FOR DOWNLOADING THIS FILE. + + THIS FILE MAY NOT BE DISTRIBUTED IN PRINTED FORM. Users are + permitted to make 1-3 copies for personal use. + + THE AUTHOR RESERVES ALL RIGHTS TO THIS PUBLICATION, INCLUDING + THE RIGHT TO PRINTED PUBLICATION, DISTRIBUTION RIGHTS TO THIS + AND ALL FUTURE EDITIONS, AND ALL OTHER RIGHTS AS DETAILED BY + INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT LAW. + + + If you encounter this book being distributed in printed or +electronic form, in whole or in part, in violation of the copyright, please +send electronic mail to the address given below. + +TECHNICAL NOTES: + + This is an interim release, it is NOT anywhere near complete. This + file was generated from a desktop publishing program on an MS-DOS + machine and therefor may include some special characters which will + not be reproduced accurately on other machines, and which may be + corrupted in transmission. This also means that the text is a + low-quality ASCII representation of the original text. + + +HOW TO CONTACT THE AUTHOR, AND/OR GET THE BOOK VIA ELECTRONIC MAIL: +Suggestions are welcome, as are submissions, complaints, and just about +anything other than lawsuits and other non-productive mail. + +Internet mail can be sent to dr@ripco.com + +A copy of this file (in four parts of around 50K each) will be sent on +request. A print version may be available in the future, and a database +based on the information is under development. + +---------------------------------------------------------------------------- + +This book is dedicated to Ben, who made it possible, to Arthur, who helped +keep it going, and to all the amateur pyrotechnicians who have lost their +lives, senses, and limbs in the search for knowledge. + + The processes and techniques herein should + not be carried out under any circumstances!! + +On the advice of my lawyer,I hereby state that I assume no responsibilities +for any use of the information presented in this book. The intention of +this book is to demonstrate the many techniques and methods used by persons +in this and other countries to produce a number of conceivably hazardous +devices. None of the statements herein should be taken to indicate the +opinions or actions of the author. The techniques described here may be +found in public libraries and all the information given is available from +public sources. Any loss of life, property, or other perceived loss, injury +or harm is the sole responsibility of the purchaser. + +Any instructions, formulas, and other statements herein are for +informational purposes only.Although most of the procedures can be +accomplished with minimal preparation and from easily available supplies, +this is a work of fiction and no assumption should be made about the +accuracy or safety of any of the procedures. This book is void where +prohibited, and shall not be sold to any person who is ineligible to +receive it. If you are under the age of 18, a convicted felon, mentally +retarded, or a member of an organization that has as its stated or unstated +goals the overthrow of the legitimate government of the United States of +America, you are required to turn yourself in to the nearest officer of the +law without delay. + + + RELEASE 1.5 + + COPYRIGHT 1993 + ALL RIGHTS RESERVED + + + + + + Table of Contents + +SAFETY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 + Basic Safety Rules. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 + How To Mix Dry Ingredients. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 + +BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 + Propellants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 + Explosives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 + +PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 + +EXPLOSIVE FORMULAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 + Explosive Theory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 + Impact Explosives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 + Low Order Explosives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 + High Order Explosives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 + Other Reactions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 + +COMPRESSED GAS BOMBS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 + Bottled Gas Explosives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 + Dry Ice Bombs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 + +USING EXPLOSIVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 + Ignition Devices. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 + Impact Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 + Electrical Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 + Electro-mechanical Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 + Delays. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 + +EXPLOSIVE CASINGS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 + Paper Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 + Metal Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 + Primed Explosive Casings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 + Glass Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 + Plastic Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 + +ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 + Tube Explosives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 + Atomized Particle Explosions. . . . . . . . . . . . 57 + +SPECIAL AMMUNITION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 + Primitive Weapons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 + Firearms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 + Compressed Air/Gas Weapons. . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 + +ROCKETS AND CANNONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 + Rockets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 + Cannon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 + +VISUAL PYROTECHNICS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 + Smoke Bombs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 + Colored Flames. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 + Fireworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 + +MORE INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 + +HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 + +USEFUL CHEMICALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 + +FUEL-OXIDIZER MIXTURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 + +USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 + + + + + SAFETY + + Safety is an important concern in many activities, but it is even more +important when working with explosives and related compounds. If you have +an accident with a power tool you can permanently maim or kill yourself. An +automobile accident can not only kill yourself, but a dozen or more others +who have the bad luck to be on the same road as you. When an airplane +crashes, it often kills not only the passengers on board, but anybody who +happens to have lived near the crash site. An accidental explosion can be +much destructive than any of these. Any accident involving explosives is +likely to be fatal, and a serious accident can, under some circumstances +circumstances, kill hundreds of people. + There are no such things as truly "safe" explosive devices. While some +explosives are less dangerous than others, all such compositions are, by +their very nature, extremely hazardous. + + + Basic Safety Rules + + 1) Don't smoke! (don't laugh- an errant cigarette wiped out the +Weathermen). Avoid open flames, especially when working with flammable +liquids or powdered metals. + + 2) Grind all ingredients separately. It is alarming how friction +sensitive some supposedly safe compositions really are. Grinding causes heat +and possibly sparks, both of which can initiate an explosion. + + 3) Start with very small quantities. Even small quantities of high +explosives can be very dangerous. Once you have some idea of the power of +the explosive, you can progress to larger amounts. Store high explosives +separately from low explosives, and sensitive devices, such as blasting +caps, should be stored well away from all flammable or explosive material. + + 4) Allow for a 20% margin of error. Never let your safety depend on +the expected results. Just because the average burning rate of a fuse is 30 +secs/foot, don't depend on the 6 inches sticking out of your pipe bomb to +take exactly 15 seconds. + + 5) Never underestimate the range of your shrapnel. The cap from a +pipe bomb can often travel a block or more at high velocities before coming +to rest- If you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can +kill you. + + 6) At the least, take the author's precautions. When mixing sensitive +compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of static electricity. +Work in an area with moderate humidity, good ventilation, and watch out for +sources of sparks and flame, which can ignite particles suspended in the +air. Always follow the directions given and never take shortcuts. + + 7) Buy quality safety equipment, and use it at all times. Always wear +a face shield, or at the minimum, shatterproof lab glasses. It's usually a +good idea to wear gloves when handling corrosive chemicals, and a lab apron +can help prevent life-threatening burns. + + + How To Mix Dry Ingredients + + The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to use +a technique perfected by small-scale fireworks manufacturers: + + 1) Take a large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a +newspaper that does not use staples) + + 2) Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour +them in two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet. + + 3) Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the piles, allowing the +powders to roll towards the center of the sheet. + + 4) By raising one corner and then the other, rock the powders back and +forth in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture +spill from either of the loose ends. + + 5) Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use it +immediately. Use airtight containers for storage, It's best to use 35mm film +canisters or other jars which do not have screw-on tops. If you must keep +the mixture for long periods, place a small packet of desiccant in the +container, and never store near heat or valuable items. + + + + BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS + + + Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or +more drugstores. These are two of the places that serious pyrotechnicians +can visit to purchase potentially explosive material. All that one has to +do is know something about the mundane uses of the substances. + Black powder, for example, is normally used in blackpowder firearms. +It comes in varying grades, with each different grade being a slightly +different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of +the gun that it is intended for; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast +in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster +the burn rate of the powder. + + + Propellants + + There are many varieties of powder used as propellants, and many of +these can be adapted for use in explosive devices. Propellants are usually +selected for stability and high gas production, and can be very effective +if used in a strong container. Some propellants, such as nitrocellulose, +burn at a much higher rate when under pressure, while others burn at +basically the same rate in the open and when confined. + + Black Powder + + Black powder is commonly available in four grades. The smaller, faster +burning sizes are more difficult to find than the large, slow grades. The +powder's burn rate is extremely important when it is to be used in +explosives. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a +confined environment, quick-burning powder is desired. The four common +grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width +(calibre) of the gun they would be used in. Generally, the fastest burning +powder, the FFFF grade is desirable for explosives, and the larger grades +are used as propellants. + + + The FFFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has +more surface area exposed to the flame front, allowing the flame to +propagate through the material much faster than it could if a larger sized +powder was used. The price range of black powder is about $8.50 - $12.00 per +pound. The price per pound is the same regardless of the grade, so you can +save time and work by buying finer grade of powder. + There are several problems with using black powder. It can be +accidentally ignited by static electricity or friction, and that it has a +tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, you should +use a plastic or wooden spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile +at a time, slowly apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it +in a series of light strokes or circles. It is fine enough to use when it +reaches the consistency of flour. + The particle size needed is dependent on the type of device it is +going to be used in. The size of the grains is less important in large +devices, and in large strong casings coarse grained powder will work. Any +adult can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms +in the United States. + + PYRODEX* + + Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder, and +which can be substituted by volume for standard blackpowder. It comes in +the many of the standard grades, but it is more expensive per pound. +However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume +than one pound of black powder. Pyrodex is much easier to crush to a very +fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more +reliable. This is because Pyrodex is less sensitive to friction and static +electricity, and it absorbs moisture more slowly than black powder. Pyrodex +can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved +in boiling water and dried in the sun. + + Rifle/Shotgun Powder + + Rifle and shotgun propellants are usually nitrocellulose based with +additives to modify the burning rate. They will be referred to as smokeless +powder in all future references. Smokeless powder is made by the action of +concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some other cellulose +material, a process that is described on page 19. This material is then +dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. + When dealing with smokeless powder, the grain size is not nearly as +important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained powders burn +fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is +confined, smokeless burns both hotter and produces a greater volume of gas, +producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often +necessary for other propellants is not necessary for smokeless. + Smokeless powder costs slightly more than black powder. In most states +any citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are +currently few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now +ID checks in many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet, however +mail order purchases from another state are not subject to such checks. When +purchased by mail order propellants must be shipped by a private carrier, +since the Postal Service will not carry hazardous materials. Shipping +charges will be high, due to Department Of Transportation regulations on +packaging flammable and explosive materials. + + Rocket Engine Powder + + Model rocketry is an popular hobby in the United States and many other +countries. Estes*, the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines, +takes great pains to ensure that their engines are both safe and reliable. +The simple design of these engines makes it very easy to extract the +propellant powder. + Model rocket engines contain a single large grain of propellant. This +grain is encased in heavy cardboard tubing with a clay cap at the top and +a clay or ceramic nozzle in the bottom. The propellant can be removed by +slitting the tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it like you would a roll of +paper towels. When this is done, the grey fire clay at either end of the +propellant grain should be removed. This can be done by either cracking it +off with a sharp bow, or by gently prying with a plastic or brass knife. +The engine material consists of three stages. First the large fuel stage, +which is at the end nearest the nozzle. Above this is the delay stage, which +may not be found in some engines. This stage burns slowly and produces a +large amount of smoke. Last is the ejection charge, which normally would +produce gases to push the parachute out through the top of the rocket. + The propellant material contains an epoxy which makes it exceptionally +hard, so it must be crushed to a fine powder before it can be used.be used. +By double bagging the propellant in small plastic bags and gripping it in +a pliers or small vise, the powder can be carefully crushed without +shattering all over. This process should be repeated until there are no +remaining chunks, after which it may be crushed in the same manner as black +powder. + Model rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from JIM MORRISON<=- + + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- + the Progressive Underground + Although I haven't ||||||\\ ||| ||| |||||\\ Dissidents + heard from him, ||| )))||| ||| ||| \\\ 3 1 3 - 4 3 3 - 3 1 6 4 + maybe this file's ||||||// ||| ||| ||| ))) Running: Citadel v2.17 + author would =WANT= you ||| ||| ||| ||| /// About 20 Megs of TextFiles + to call... ||| \\|||// ||||||/ and the SysOp is Mr. Pez. + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..2da1ed38 Binary files /dev/null and b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas.txt differ diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas2.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas2.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..71d87885 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas2.ana @@ -0,0 +1,174 @@ +$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ +$ $ +$ TEAR GAS $ +$ ---- --- $ +$ $ +$ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $ +$ $ +$ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $ +$ BY KURT SAXON $ +$ $ +$ $ +$ Typed and Uploaded by: $ +$ $ +$$$$$$$$$$$$-=>Lex Luthor<=-$$$$$$$$$$$ +$ $ +$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ + + + There are several eye and nose +irritants on the market which canb be +easily duplicated. + + A good irritant is formaldehyde. +Better known as embalming fluid, it +smells horrible, hurts the eyes and +nose, andb on exposure to the air it +vaporizes, making a room uninhabitable +for hours. + + It can be squirted from a water +pistol or nasal inhaler, poured on the +floor or vaporized by a bomb described +in the STINKUM PHILE. + + Formaldehyde can be bought at the +drug store under the pretext of wanting +it to preserve mice or other lab +specimen. + +-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- + + The irritant mailmen use against +dogs and which is sold widely for self +defense is oleoresid capsicum. Capsicum +is the hot essence of red peppers. +Oleoresin is the process for extracting +it. To extract the Capsicum, grind up +four ounces of red pepper seeds in a +blender or with a mortar andb pestle. +Red pepper seeds are bought in the +grocers's. + + The dry, ground seeds are then put +into a coffee percolator in which there +is aobut 16 ounces of alohol,preferably +with the water distilled out. The seeds +are then percolated for about a half +hour. The alcohol is then distilled off +until there are only a couple of table +spoons of red liquid left in the flask. +The red liquid is then added to a half +pint of light mineral oil, bought at a +drug store. + + It can be sprayed from a nasal spray +. Another good way is with a window +cleaning sprayer bought at any dime +store. The tube of the sprayer is cut +to fit in a two ounce midicine bottle. +This way you have enough of the goody +to last through a whole demonstration, +no matter which side you're on. It is +also nice to keep by the door or by +your computer to repel intruders. +intruders. (Bell Security!) + + Before using, the container should +be given a phew shakes. Under laborat +ory conditions all the oil is extracted +from the seeds. But with my Mickey +Mouse method a lot of oil is left in so +the residue is quite potent. Just be +sure you strain out any larger bits +so the sprayer hole is not clogged. + + The ground seeds left in the +percolator are dried and saved. They +are great for throwing into the faces +of people in a mob. If you really want +a laugh, throw some broadcast from a +theater balcony during the death scene +in "Love Story". + + The goody called MACE is probably +only acrolein. If not, it works just +as well as MACE and is simple and fun +to produce. It is the same product as +described on pages 104 through 106 of +the ANARCHIST COOKBOOK. Mine however, +is broken down and simplified. + + Acrolein is not toxic but causes +horrible pain in the nose and copious +tears, andb irritates the skin. A shot +in the face from a water pistol or +some other sprayer will put anyone out +of the game for at least half an hour. + + Acrolein is best made anb ounce at +a time. Put in the flask 2 1/2 ounces +of glycerine and 3/4 ounce of sodium +bisulfate (Sani-Flush), both of which +can be bought at any grocery store. + + The still is set up with the outside +tube connected as the fumes are bad. +When the mixture starts to bubble it +must be watched constantly to make sure +it does not bubble up into the neck of +the flask. If it starts for the neck +of the flask, remove the lamp until it +settles down. If the lamp is too hot, +the tin can is raised on small blocks +until the right heat is gotten. + + Distill off an ounce of acrolein +and take away the lamp. An ounce is +all this size batch is good for. Let +the flask cool for anb hour before +opening and cleaning. Pour the residue +down the sink and put your face over +the drain to get a sample of the +vapor. Then cap the receiving bottle +and wash everything the acrolein was +in contact with. The best squirter +for the three irritants above is a +water pistol. Most water pistol. Most +water pistols leak badly so they mustt +be tranbsported barrel up so the goody +won't ooze out around the trigger. It +will leak when you use it so it is +best to put in the plastic sandwhich +bag with the opening held around the +barrel with the rubberband. If the is +pistol has a trigger guard it should be +cut off and then it can be used just as +easily in a plastic bag as otherwise. + + For casual carrying around, you cant +beat a nasal spray. The best ones can +be screwed open so the goody can be +poured in. If not, you have to squeeze +it and put its nozzle into the goody. +When the pressure is released the +irritant will be sucked up. + + Such irritants are illegal to carry +in some states. that's one of the +reasons the nasal spray is best. If you +are searched and it is found, there +is little chance it will be recognized +for what it is. I don't know what +advice to give you if the cop has the +sniffles and goes to use some of your +goody. + + thats all pholks + +---------------------------------------- +***Call The Morgue at:(201)376-4462*** +*** The Armoury at:(201)267-1207*** + ***Two Great BBS's*** + +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS...... \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargasp.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargasp.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..60129f9c --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargasp.ana @@ -0,0 +1,64 @@ + PrimoPyro1990 + + + + + ... TEARGAS AND RELATED ITEMS ... + + +DISCLAIMER: This file contains information on making substances which are + illegal or harmful. Neither the BBS carrying this file nor its + author can be considered responsible for making this information + available. This file is intended for information only. + + + +CAPSTUN: Capstun (capsaicin) is the active oil in red pepper. If you don't +think something derived from pepper can be as good as CN or CS tear gas, +think. Even if a person is maced, he can still can still function if he is +motivated enough. Capstun is an irritant which causes nasal passages to swell +, making the affected person breathe through their mouth which in turn causes +them to inhale the capstun which affects the throat causing choking. It's +effect in the eyes is extreme tearing and pain. In addition it causes a +burning sensation on any exposed skin. Capstun does not cause permanent +damage. +Capstun is easy to make. The only drawback is you have to heat up ethyl +alcohol which is flammable. +Obtain 1 lb. of dried red or green hot peppers. The hotter the better. Chop +them up in a blender and put them into a large jug. Add denatured ethyl +alcohol to the peppers until they are covered by an inch or two of alcohol. +Put the jug into a pot of water on an electric burner and bring the alcohol +almost to a simmer. Be very careful as the alcohol fumes can ignite. Don't +use a flame to heat the water. Let the alcohol cool a bit then filter it off. +Repeat this 3 times. Throw out the peppers and put all the alcohol into a +large mouthed jar. Take the water pot/heater outside and heat up the alcohol. +Evaporate the alcohol down to about 100 mls. Filter off the alcohol again +and let it evaporate to leave a thick reddish oil. If you are adventurish +take a minute amount of the oil and taste it. Have plenty of water on hand +though. +Capstun is usually used as a 1% to 5% solution. Cut it down with mineral oil +or another suitable carrier. +CAPSTUN BOMB: Take a 12 gauge shotgun shell and open the crimp. Pour out the +shot and seal the shot cup with a thin layer of epoxy. The seal must be oil- +proof. Take a 1 in. long piece of broomhandle and drill a small hole through +it's center. Epoxy it onto the brass end of the shell so that the hole is +over the primer. Now fill the shell with a 5% solution of capstun. Close the +crimp up again and epoxy the end shut. Take a cloth streamer about 1 1/2 in. +wide by 2 ft. long and epoxy one end of it to the crimp end of the shell. +When all is ready take a short nail and insert it through the hole up against +the primer. Hold it in place with 2 pieces of tape. To use this, fold the +streamer up in your palm and place the shell on top of the streamer. Throw +the shell in a high arc. The streamer will cause the shell to land nail end +first setting off the primer. When the shell goes off it will spray the +capstun into the air. Two of these can clear the street. +If you have problems with the capstun leaking, try loading it first into a +small plastic bag. Heat seal the open end of the bag then load it in the +shotgun shell without the shot cup. +Even though the capstun won't cause damage, the carrier it is dissolved in +can, so chose it carefully. + + + + *** Kilroy was here *** + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tears.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tears.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d6e39db5 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tears.txt @@ -0,0 +1,64 @@ + + + + ******* ***** * **** *** * *** + * * * * * * * * * * * + * *** * * **** * * * *** + * * ***** * * * ** ***** * + * * * * * * * * * * * + * ***** * * * * *** * * *** + + By: VIPER + + +________________________________________________________________________________ + + I have thought of two easy ways to make tear gas. The first one works, but I +have yet to try the second. + +************** +MATERIALS * +Chili Powder * +Vinegar * +Squirt gun * +************** + + PROCEDURE + +1. Mix the powder and vinegar untill it has a consistancy like water. The color +should be kinda brown. +2. Place the mixture in an airtight container untill use. +3. At the time of use get a squirt gun that doesn't leak (if it DOES leak, wear +rubber gloves) and fill the gun with the tear gas. + +*****BE CAREFULL!!! IF THIS SHIT GETS IN YOUR EYES OR IN A CUT IT WILL HURT***** + + I thought of this next way after my friend accidentally got sprayed in the +eye with hot sauce at TACO BELL. + +************** +MATERIALS * +Hot Sauce * +Viegar * +Chili Powder * +(the powder * +is optional) * +************** + + + The procedure is like the first but instead of useing the chili powder you +use the hot sauce. OR, for a more powerfull mixture, USE BOTH!!! + + Once again BE CAREFULL WITH THIS SHIT!!!!! + + I AM NOT RESONSIBLE IF SOME IDIOT USES THIS SHIT AND BLINDS SOMEONE!! EVEN + I DON'T KNOW HOW POWERFULL THIS SHIT IS!! THIS FILE IS HERE SO YOU CAN HAVE FUN + READING IT, NOT SO YOU CAN GO BLIND SOMEONE!! + + * * * **** **** **** + * * * * * * * * + * * * **** *** **** + * * * * * * * + * * * **** * * + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis-b.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis-b.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8c75c268 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis-b.txt @@ -0,0 +1,560 @@ +From: jdolske@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Justin H Dolske) +Date: 26 Jul 93 19:26:06 GMT + + -------------------------------- + The Ancient Art of Cannonry v1.0 + by + jdolske@andy.bgsu.edu + 7/23/93 + -------------------------------- + +=== +0.0 Index + + Section Title + 0.0 Index + 1.0 Introduction and Disclaimer + 1.1 Equipment list + 1.2 Credits + 2.0 Tennis Ball Cannon v1.0 + 2.1 Tennis Ball Cannon v2.0 + 2.2 Tennis Ball Cannon v2.5 + 3.0 Other Designs and Ideas + 3.1 Alternative Fuels + 3.2 Alternative Designs + 3.3 Assorted Ideas + +=== +1.0 Introduction and Disclaimer + + So you wanna build a cannon? I think nearly everybody is familiar with the +basic idea of the Tennis Ball Cannon -- some type of device that, when +ignited, fires a tennis ball out one end. This sounds simple enough, but +making a cannon that can shoot long distances (E.g., 100+ yards) can be a bit +tricky. The purpose of this document is to guide the reader through the +production of a number of different types of cannons. + + Section 2.0, 2.1, and 2.2 deal with the three types of cannons I've +built to date. If you just want to build a cannon, these are the sections +for you. These cannons are probably not the most powerful that can be made, +but they have all been built and tested. They're easy to build and easy to +fire, unlike some of the vague net-info I've seen floating around. Hopefully +I've been precise enough that anyone with some a little talent and time can +successfully build a cannon that can fire impressive distances. If you're +interested in theory or experimentation with unproven designs (by this +author, at least), check out later sections. + + While I've never had any serious accidents with my cannons, I recognize +that this it *not* a harmless sport! I feel that although the simpler cannons +are fairly safe (assuming standard precautions are taken), the more advanced +models can generate TREMENDOUS pressures in the barrels. The power of such +simple devices still amazes me. With this said, keep these points in mind: + + * Don't build and use any of these cannons if you're not willing to + take a risk. If you feel wary of setting off large fire crackers, + this sport isn't for you. + + * I'm not perfect person, and this isn't a perfect guide. Just + because I don't mention something or I leave a point out doesn't mean + it isn't important. Use some common sense. + + * Play it safe! Wear eye-protection (e.g., impact resistant goggles) + and ear-protection. These things can blow up and can make VERY loud + bangs. A sturdy pair of gloves is also a must. I'm not kidding -- I + wear all this stuff. A thick piece of PVC (I use 4" Schedule 40) pipe + is recommended also for use as a "blast shield" around the cannon. + If these cannons explode, you'll be glad for 1/4" or more of PVC + between it and you. + + * Read through this entire document before building or buying + anything. + + * I take no responsibility for your actions and/or stupidity. If you + get hurt, it's not my fault. Use this information at your own risk. + + Please email me with any suggestions/ideas/experiences. The quest for the +bigger, better, farther, safer cannon never ends! + +=== +1.1 Equipment list + + Here are some basic items you'll want to have on hand when building cannons. +Don't run out and buy everything at once -- Not all of it is used in every +cannon. + + * Duct Tape -- Used to reinforce cannon. Plan to use at least 1/2 + of a roll for every cannon. + * Glue -- Wood Glue (a.k.a. Carpenter's Glue) and Super Glue are handy + * Cardboard tubes -- About 2.5" diameter. Pringles cans are easiest. + For future reference, a Pringles can is 9.5" + long. + * Tennis Balls -- Your projectile! + * Pop Cans -- Can function as a both barrel components and as a tip + to firmly hold tennis ball. + * Lighter or Matches -- Used to ignite cannon. Long matches are a + good idea... + * Knives -- A good sharp knife for cutting cardboard/tape. A cheap + knife can be used to cut cans and other thin metal. + * Lighter Fluid -- Used as a fuel. Don't use butane! You want the + liquid stuff, also known as Naphtha. "Zippo" is + a common name brand. + * Tape Measure -- If you're interested in exactly how far your cannon + can *really* fire. + * SAFETY EQUIPMENT -- See Section 1.0! + +=== +1.2 Credits + + This document was created as a summary and guide to cannonry after spending +the summer of 1993 building and improving cannons. + +Ideas, suggestions, etc. were also contributed by the following people: + + Kevin Parsley + brad@slammer.UUCP (Brad Isley) + dale@unislc.slc.unisys.com (Dale Clark) + david@baervan.nmt.edu (Davis Fritchman) + farb@ecr.mu.oz.au (William_Cuming FARROW) + gt5876b@prism.gatech.edu (Rick Farmer) + i919802@redgum.ucnv.edu.au (Douggie) + rhughes@mtgy.gtegsc.com (Ralph Hughes) + henlib@nevada.edu (Carroll Gardner) + + Tidbits gathered from other UseNet rec.pyrotechnics readers + The Big Book of Mischief v1.3 (TBBOM13.TXT) + +=== +2.0 Tennis Ball Cannon v1.0 + + This is the first type of cannon I built, and it's also quite simple to +build. This design can fire a tennis ball about 45 feet. It's also quiet -- +the "whoosh" sound of this cannon probably doesn't require hearing protection +unless you're sensitive to sound. I'd encourage anyone who's never built a +cannon before to build this one first; it can later be modified to a "v2.0" +cannon. + + The design of this cannon is extremely simple. The barrel is made from +between 2-5 Pringles cans (I found that more that 5 has no effect). Just +empty the cans, and cut off the metal bottoms on all but 1 can. When you +cut off the bottoms, cut the cardboard sides as evenly as possible to ensure +a good fit. Tape/glue all the cans together as securely as possible. The one +can with the metal bottom intact should be the bottom can, everything else +goes on top. Make sure all joints and the bottom are reinforced especially +strong. + At the base of the bottom can, make a small hole. It should be no bigger +than 1/4 inch, and no smaller than 1/8 inch. A hole in the metal instead of +the cardboard should also work, but I found a hole in the side to be less +awkward to light. + All that needs to be done now is to make a fitting for the tennis ball to +sit in. The easiest fitting is to cut a circle out from the plastic Pringles +can lid so that a tennis ball can be snugly wedged into it. You may wish to +run a wire or string through the sides of the can near the top so your tennis +ball will not fall all the way into the cannon! An alternative to the lid is +to use a pop can with the top and curved-part of the bottom removed. The pop +can fitting may shorten the range of the cannon, however. + + Now would be a good time to make sure your safety gear is on! + + The cannon is now complete and ready to be fired. To fuel it, put a squirt +or two all the way down the *side* of the can. Don't just dump it all on the +bottom or it won't work! Do put a few drops on the bottom to make sure that +there is plenty of fuel by the ignition hole. It doesn't take very much +lighter fluid at all. Between 1/2 teaspoon and 1 teaspoon is PLENTY. We're +only interested in burning the *vapors* of the lighter fluid. + As soon as you've put in the fuel, stick the tennis ball in the top. Wait +5 to 10 seconds to be sure the lighter fluid has vaporized. Now point it in +a direction that won't injure anyone or anything, and ignite the cannon with +your lighter or match. + If all goes well, you will be rewarded with a "whump" and the tennis ball +will shoot out the top. At a 45-degree angle, the cannon should throw the +ball about 45 feet. + + * If your cannon would not ignite: + - Your hole may be too small. Try making it a little bit bigger. + - Make sure the fuel was squirted evenly down the side, with a little + extra near the ignition hole. + - If you've fired it before, make sure you blow out the exhaust + gasses -- the lighter fluid must have fresh air in the cannon to + burn. + * If your cannon ignites but is very weak: + - Your hole may be too large. Use tape to shrink the size. A large + hole allows the pressure to vent through the hole instead of pushing + the tennis ball. + - The tennis ball may need to be wedged in firmer to allow pressure to + build up before launch. use a smaller circle in the Pringles lid or + push in the side of the cola can a bit. + - If you've fired it before, all of the exhaust fumes may not have + been blown out. A hairdryer can be used to quickly perform this. + - A 2 can cannon will not fire nearly as far a larger cannon. Roughly + expect about 20 feet for 2 cans, 30 for 3, 40 for 4, and 45 for 5. + +=== +2.1 Tennis Ball Cannon v2.0 + + Well, the first cannon was a good start, but it just wasn't impressive. +There was no real noise, and you could easily throw a tennis ball farther by +hand. Now enter the exciting world of the "baffle." By placing an obstruction +across half of the diameter of the cannon at regular intervals, the pressure +produced by the cannon is GREATLY increased. I suspect the baffles slow down +the combustion of the vapor, allowing for a more complete burn, but that may +not be correct. In any case, you can at least triple the range of a v1.0 +cannon by just adding a few baffles. + + WARNING! This is where these cannons become much more dangerous! The noise +produced is now much, much, MUCH louder -- ear protection is a MUST! I can't +stress this enough. I personally lost hearing for a few minutes after my first +shot -- stupid, but I'm much more careful now. The pressures involved are +also tremendous. The bottom end of a Pringles can is always dented and warped +after the first firing, and you'll always get seams blown out. The baffles, +which are made from metal, have the potential to produce shrapnel. And, of +course, the tennis ball has much more energy. I've heard these can cause welts +at close ranges. + + I strongly suggest first building a cannon of no more than 2 cans. It's +fairly simple to add on one can at a time -- this will give you a feel for +just how much reinforcement to use when constructing cannons. Use of a PVC +"blast shield" is strongly encouraged! + + The range on these cannons is impressive. A 3-can cannon can fire over +120 feet, and a 4-can cannon can reach 100 yards! Beware of blow-outs. The +first time a baffled cannon is fired, you will probably find areas around +seams where the cannon has split the duct tape. After securely taping these +up you can easily add 100 feet of range. Thus, the second shot is always more +impressive than the first. + A baffled cannon is also harder to fuel and ignite. Your first few attempts +may not work well at all, or may be very weak. Don't be fooled! + + Construction of this type of cannon is similar to that of a v1.0, except +for the baffles. The best material for baffles I've found are the sides of +pop cans. Use some sort of cutting instrument to cut off the top and +bottom to a can, and slice down the side to create one sheet of metal. +Flatten this sheet out. + For baffles in the middle of a can, simply make a straight cut through +half of the can. Then insert the metal sheet, and cut so that it extends +about 1.5" from the side of the can. Baffles on a seam between cans just +need to be cut to shape. + Sheet of metal + (Top view) / + / + .----------------------------. + | | + | | + | | + | | + | __---__ | + | /' `\ | + | .' `. | + |______|_____________|_______| + `. .' + \ / + `--___--' + \ + \ + Pringles can + + Using the extra metal on the sides, use a pair of old scissors to cut +flaps. These will be used to secure the baffle to the can to prevent them from +being blown out. The ASCII pic below shows 6 crude flaps. One-by-one, bend +the flaps down and tape them securely to the can. You may wish to use some +wood glue here to help get a tighter fit. The baffles should alternate sides +so that you cannon see more than 2 baffles as you look into the cannon. + + .----------------------------. + | \ | / | + | \ | / | + | \ | / | + | \ | / | + | \ __---__ / | + | \/' `\/ | + |------.' `.-------| + |______|_____________|_______| + `. .' + \ / + `--___--' + + + Once all the cans are baffled, you'll have a cannon with a side view +something like this: + +(Cutaway view) + __________________________________ + | | | + |_____________|_____________|______ + + + Make sure you use LOTS of tape to reinforce the cannon. On the last cannon +like this I made (4 cans), I used about 3/4 roll before the first shot, and +more afterwards to patch blow-outs. You can't use too much. Pay special +attention to the seams and cuts for the baffles. Make sure you've got plenty +holding on the back or it will blow off! If you've been firing from a hole on +the bottom instead of the side, consider putting the hole on the side so if +the back blows off it won't hit your hand. + + Now would be a good time to put on your safety gear!!! + + Fueling baffled cannons is a bit trickier because you don't have a clear +route down the side. Get the lighter fluid as far down as you can by +squirting down the top, then flip the cannon over and squirt some through the +ignition hole. Rotating and tilting the cannon will help the fluid get to the +middle. Stick in the tennis ball, and let the fuel evaporate for about 20 +seconds. Make sure you're wearing a glove when you ignite this! You'll burn +any fingers near the ignition hole if you're not wearing gloves... + + Hopefully you'll hear a loud boom (muffled, of course, through your ear +protectors) and the tennis ball will shoot about between 100 feet and +100 yards. Now take a look at your cannon. Patch any blowouts with plenty +of tape. Observe the denting done to the bottom of the Pringles can and +damage done to the baffles. These cannons are good for about 5 shots before +the baffles are completely destroyed. Now go find your tennis ball. :-) + + * If your cannon would not ignite: + - Check fixes listed under Cannon v1.0 + - Baffled cannons take much longer to vent exhaust fumes from + previous firings. Always blow through the ignition hole to push + out the exhaust. + - Did you put fuel through the ignition hole to ensure fumes in that + area? + * If you cannon performed weakly: + - Did you allow the lighter fluid to evaporate? + - See caution above about exhaust fumes. + - On larger cannons, vapors may not be reaching the middle of the + cannon. Try putting fluid in the bottom first, and blowing though + the ignition hole to force vapors into the middle. + - Check your baffles. After 4 or 5 shots they are badly damaged or + destroyed. + - Refuel and try again. Sometimes they seem to fix themselves. :-) + +=== +2.2 Tennis Ball Cannon v2.5 + + This section is still "under construction." As of this writing, I have not +completed or tested this cannon, but I will describe it's construction. This +cannon is basically the same as v2.0, but is designed with strength and +durability in mind. + + The barrel of this cannon is no longer made from Pringles cans -- an +important benefit to those of you sick of eating Pringles by this point! +Instead, use a thick cardboard tube of about the same diameter. These are +the kinds of tubes used for mailing things, storing blueprints/drafting plans +in, etc. A good art store, mailing store, or office supply store should have +something like this in stock. I'm using the shipping tube from 1960's vintage +M518 (?) 2.5" rockets, but other cardboard tubes will work just as well. I've +seen cardboard tubes with walls in the 1/4" range, so these should hold up +much longer than a Pringles can. + The tube I'm using already has a metal end on it, but most others don't. +I should think a PVC end-cap or tin-can of the appropriate diameter would +work well. Be sure to use extra tape to hold the end on and to help prevent +shrapnel! + Unfortunately, these cardboard tubes lack the smooth foil/plastic coating +that the Pringles can had. I plan to use a polyurethane (The type in a +spray-paint type can) to coat the inside to prevent the fuel from soaking +into the cardboard. + + The baffles are made from sheet metal, the type used in air duct work is +ideal. These are cut with a metal saw in the same shape as before, and bent +with pliers. + +=== +3.0 Other Designs and Ideas + + The following sub-sections are, unless noted, untested by this author. Some +designs/ideas were submitted by other "cannonists," some are just theories +or thoughts. I'll try to note which the case is. Experiment at your own risk! + +=== +3.1 Alternative Fuels + + The fuel used by most cannons is just lighter fluid (naphtha), but other +fuels are available -- some are reported to be much more powerful. + + * Fuels that don't work: (experience) + -Gasoline: I thought this would be great, but I just wasn't + able to get the cannon to light. This may just + be tricky to use properly. + -White Gas, a.k.a. Coleman Fuel: Same thing, wouldn't ignite. + + * Propane: (experience) + This worked quite well, it's as good or slightly better than + naphtha. Propane is certainly worthy of further study... + + * Alcohol: (submission) + Also known as denatured ethyl alcohol. This is supposed to be + more powerful than naphtha, but is also supposed to be much harder + to reliably measure/ignite. + + * Engine starting fluid: (submission) + Also known as ether (one brand is diethyl ether), this seems to + be second in popularity. One drawback is it's higher cost. Be sure + to only use with STURDY cannons! This is supposed to be quite + powerful. + + * Acetylene: (submission) + Also known as welding gas. Acetylene/air mixtures can be + *extremely* powerful, and have the potential to be ignited from + even tiny amounts of static electricity. Use caution with this! + + * Calcium Carbide: (submission) + When mixed with water, this produces a gas closely related to + Acetylene -- follow similar precautions. + + * Hair spray: (submission) + Commonly available, but I would imagine that other fuels would + produce better results. I would also think this would leave a + sticky residue in the cannon. + + * Hydrogen/Oxygen: (untested) + This should produce some impressive results, but has the potential + to be dangerous. A hydrogen/oxygen mix (66%/33%) will produce the + best results, but a hydrogen/air mix should also work (air is 20% + oxygen). A cannon filled with pure hydrogen will not work. + A fairly simple way to produce a hydrogen/oxygen mix is by + electrolysis of water. This has the advantage of producing the + gasses in the exact ratio. + Hydrogen alone can be collected as the byproduct of dissolving a + metal in an acid. Aluminum foil in muratic acid (usually about + 9M HCl) works fine. + + * Acetone: (untested) + Acetone evaporates quickly, but I'm not sure how explosive the + vapors are. + + * Propylene Oxide: (untested) + This is what the military uses in Fuel-Air Explosives. I bet this + stuff would be great to use, but I have no idea on where to get + some, and it's probably highly toxic. + +=== +3.2 Alternative Designs + + * A cannon made from pop cans: (submission) + This design is basically a cannon using 1 can as a combustion + chamber, and 4-5 cans as a barrel. This design may not be practical + today due to pop cans being pressed/molded rather than rolled steel + with ends put on. In any case, the tops and bottoms of 4-5 cans are + removed and the cans are taped together. I suggest using plenty of + tape on the sides to prevent blowouts and (especially) shrapnel. + The "chamber" can has holes punched on top -- a LOT of holes -- and + a small hole at the bottom to ignite the cannon. + With a few drops of lighter fluid in the combustion chamber, shake + the cannon to help the fuel vaporize. This cannon is supposed to + fire about 100 yards. + + * Another pop can cannon: (submission) + This is similar to a v2.0 cannon. Cut the tops off of 4 cans, and + 1/2 the bottom on 3 of those cans. Securely glue and tape these + cans together, using the can with only the top removed as the base + for the cannon. Again, use plenty of tape on the sides. + Use a few drops of lighter fluid for fuel. No ranges given, but + it is claimed to have a "significant" kick. + + * Yet another pop can cannon: (submission) + Same as "Another pop can cannon" but a soup can was used for the + base. With ether as a fuel, this cannon is said to fire 200 yards. + + * Juice can cannon: (submission) + Simple construction. A 3-liter metal juice can with a 2-foot + length of natural gas pipe stuck in the top. A weighted 35mm film + canister was used as a projectile instead of a tennis ball. + + * Propane cylinder cannon: (submission) + This one certainly sounds sturdy! Cut the top off of two empty + propane cylinders, and the bottom off from one of them. These are + the thinner kind used for handheld torches, not the squat/fat ones + used for camping. Weld the two cylinders together, and weld a nut + over the ignition hole for a spark plug to screw into for remote + ignition. This cannon was used with acetylene gas. + + * Aerosol can cannon: (submission) + + Barrel: + Take a tall aerosol can of correct diameter. Most paint cans are + just right. The large Gunk engine cleaner cans are great. Make + sure the can is EMPTY. This means punch a hole in it in a + location that is to be discarded. This is to be sure there is no + pressure remaining. With a dremel tool or other grinder, cut off + the top completely. This includes removing the crimp. Leave a + smooth end. Then take a can opener and remove the bottom. Leave + the crimp ring on the bottom of the can. + + Chamber: + Smaller aerosol can of same diameter. Large WD40, etc. With same + dremel tool or similar cut off the very top of the dome. The hole + you cut will need to be about 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the can. + This will form a stop for the ball as it is loaded. Punch a small + hole in the side near the bottom. If you want more power, use a + tall can for the chamber. I'm quite pleased with the medium sized + can for a chamber. + + Ignition source and handle: + Get one of those trigger operated butane lighters that has a piezo + electric trigger. Zippo makes the one I use. The lighters I use + are red and white with a long chrome-plated steel extension for + lighting fireplace starters. Remove the coil thingie behind the + trigger. Unfortunately the coil thingie will vary quite a bit. + Some are not usable - they have a brass cap on the end. I was + unable to solder a wire to the brass cap. Solder a wire to each + post on this piezo thingie and insert it in a handle of sorts. + I made a pistol-shaped handle attached to a flat board like so: + + Crimp Rings + \ + -------------------------------=------------------ + | /| | + | Dome -> | | | + barrel -> | \| | <- chamber + -------------------------------=------------------ + ================== <- flat board + \ \ + piezo thingie trigger -> [####]=\== <- wires + \ \ + \ \ <- handle + ----- + Construction: + + Using duct tape, tape the ringed end of the barrel to the dome + end of the chamber. Be sure the fit is tight. Drill a hole in the + handle where you want the trigger. Arrange for the wires to go in + first and allow for an exit where you want it. Attach the handle + to the flat board with screws. Duct tape the handle to the + chamber. Run the wires around to the hole you punched. Twist the + ends of the wires together for about an inch so they will stay in + close proximity. Strip the ends about 1/8" and make a gap about + 1/8". Test the spark by pulling the trigger. Get as long a spark + as the piezo will make. Insert the wires into the hole such that + the gap is close to the center of the rear of the chamber. Test + spark with no fuel to make sure you get good ignition. If you + can, weld the cans together. The tape is slowly dissolved by + fuel. + Use: + Denatured alcohol is difficult to measure into a proper combustible + mixture. It is also much more powerful than naphtha and caused the + handle to be ripped off the chamber in our tests. Two layers of + duct tape solved this. We have had excellent repeatability with + the following fueling method with naphtha. If recently fired you + should sling the gun around in large arcs to get a fresh charge of + O2. Holding the barrel upright using a standard lighter filler + squirt for 1 second or a little less straight through the hole in + the dome of the chamber. Make sure that approximately 1 second's + worth goes through the hole in the dome. Fuel in the barrel is + useless. IMMEDIATELY insert a tennis ball into the barrel ALL THE + WAY to the dome. Wait about 5 seconds and pull the trigger. + Don't get in the way of the ball. I have a hole in the ceiling of + my garage from a shot. If you use alcohol, I'd stick to the + smaller chambers because it's a lot more powerful than naphtha. + +=== +3.3 Assorted Ideas + + * Try a nighttime firing. These cannons, especially with starting + fluid for a fuel, as supposed to produce a decent sized flame/flash. + * Aluminum powder sprinkled in the end of the barrel is supposed to + produce a bright flash. (Probably best viewed at night) + * Try using one of the infamous dry-ice bombs in the bottom of a + larger chamber instead of a fuel that is ignited. + * I'd really like to make a reliable system for remote ignition. Any + ideas on this? I've had no success using model-rocket igniters or + steel wool. (Steel wool will sortof burn when a current is passed + through it) A spark plug may work well... + * If you get a reliable remote ignition system, sealing off both ends + of the cannon would probably produce a rather loud bang. (And + probably shrapnel) diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..382bf49e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis.ana @@ -0,0 +1,24 @@ + +Courtesy Caeser's Palace 305 253 9869 _/\/\_\/\/_> The Federtion Presents: +The Tennis Ball Bomb Written By The /\/\aster-=November 24, 1984=-9:18pm + --------------------------------------------------- As we know, Tennis is +a popular sport around the world. In tennis you use these hollow round green +balls known as Tennis balls. What people do not know is that these wonderfull +little balls can used for other things(no not to jack off with). They can be +used as a handy explosive or noisemaker. You will need the following: 1. +A tennis ball (new if possible) 2. a knife 3. a box of matches +(the type that will strike on anything) 4. tape (strong) First you take +a knife and cut a small round hole on the tennis ball. Next you will cut off +the macth heads of each match and drop them into the hole until the tennis +ball is full of them. Make sure you do not drop the tennis ball because it +will not be too fun to stay in the hospital. Tape the hole up very well so +that it is air tight. Make a few of these and one day when a geek is walking +down the street or when you want to get a big bang or attention, throw the +ball. It is not too fun to be where the ball lands. To make the explosion more +powerfull, you can use gunpowder mixe[:%#CJ#1so. Have fun!!!! + The /\/\aster The Federation Call some of +these Federation systems: /\/\aster \/\/orld----213-478-5478 +Caesar's Palace-------305-253-9869 PHBI------------------612-699-5657 + Crystal Ship----------201-836-5010 and all the +others!!!!! --------------------------------------- +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS...... \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..963dabbd --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis.txt @@ -0,0 +1,77 @@ + !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! + ! PRESENTING ! + ! TENNIS BALL IMPACT BOMBS MADE ! + ! EASY! ! + ------------------------------- + + + OKAY, HERE IS WHAT YOU NEED FIRST: + + TENNIS BALLS - ONE FOR EACH BOMB + FUN SNAPS - ABOUT A BOX + MATCHES - ABOUT ONE LARGE BOX OF "SAFTEY" MATCHES - BOUT 500 + IF YOU DONT HAVE THESE WOODEN SAFTEY MATCHES, USE NORMAL MATCHES + AND BE SURE TO USE EXTRA FUN SNAPS. + DUCT TAPE + KNIFE + LIGHTER FLUID + FUNNEL + IF YOU DONT HAVE SOME OF THIS SHIT, JUST GO SNAKE IT FROM YOUR LOCAL + SAVE ON. + + OKAY, FIRST - GET THE KNIFE AND CUT ABOUT A 1 INCH BY 1 INCH CROSS - HOLE + IN THE TENNIS BALL. THEN (THIS IS THE HARD PART), CUT ALL THE HEADS + OFF THE MATCHES AND PUT THEM IN A CUP (THERE SHOULD BE ENOUGH TO + FILL THE INSIDE OF THE TENNIS BALL) NOW TAKE A FUNNEL AND DROP TWO + OR THREE FUN SNAPS IN THE TENNIS BALL. USE ABOUT TEN IF YOU DO + NOT HAVE SAFTEY TIP MATCHES (THESE ARE THE MATCHES THAT WILL IGNITE + IF YOU STRIKE THEM AGAINST ANYTHING.) NOW ONCE YOU HAVE THE FUN SNAPS + IN THE TENNIS BALLS, WITH THE FUNNEL STILL IN THE TENNIS BALL, FILL + THE TENNIS BALL WITH THE MATCH HEADS. **NOTE** YOU NEED THE + INSIDE VERY COMPRESSED AND ALSO BE VERY CAREFULL!! THE BALL CAN + EXPLODE AT ANY BUMP!! NOW DUCT TAPE THE HOLE OR SLIT YOU HAVE + IN THE FUNNEL. NOW COVER THE TENNIS BALL WITH LIGHTER FLUID + OR GAS! NOW YOU HAVE A PRESSURE ACTIVATED TENNIS BALL BOMB. + JUST GO TO YOUR NEIGBHOR AND ASK TO PLAY CATCH OR TENNIS. THERE + IS LOTS OF CREATIVE STUFF YOU CAN DO WITH THIS STUFF, GET CREATIVE + SWITCH IT WITH SOME LITTLE SHIT'S BALL AT YOUR LOCAL ELEMENTRY SCHOOL SO + WHEN THEY PLAY BUTT'S UP, SOME KID'S BUTS REALY DO GO UP! OR HOW ABOUT + PUTTING IT IN YOUR TENNIS CLASS'S BALL SHACK! + FOR SOME ADDED PHUN, ADD SOME GUN POWDER OR MAGNESIUM..THIS REALY + MAKES THIS BOMB EXPLODE! OR TOTALY SEAL THE BALL IN DUCT TAPE + THIS INCREASES THE PRESSURE EXERTED AND YOU GET A BIGGER + EXPLOSION! WELL, MORE TO COME. HAVE PHUN! + *** NOTE: THE AUTHORS ARE NOT*** + *** RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT LIVES*** + *** ARE LOST, OR WHAT HOUSES *** + *** ARE BURNT DOWN - ECT **** + + CALL THE PIT STOP: + (714)626-0747 + OVER 500 ANARCHY GFILES + CARDING HEAVEN! + + + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + + Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 + Salted Slug Systems Strange 408-454-9368 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 + Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 408-961-9315 + My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078 + + Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, + arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality, + insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. + + Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, + where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennisba.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennisba.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ced5af81 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennisba.txt @@ -0,0 +1,26 @@ +Tennis Ball Bomb + +Ingredients: + + * Tennis (or racquet) ball + * Strike Anywhere match heads + * Gunpowder (if you're really adventurous) + * Duct tape + +Instructions: + + * Cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. + * Cut off a bunch of match heads and fill the tennis ball with them + * Duct tape the tennis ball so that the match heads won't fall out, and + so the ball is secure. + * Throw it at something. When it hits, the match heads will ignite and + all burn. + +Modifications: + + * If you fill it 1/2 with gunpowder first, then add the match heads, it + will cause a massive explosion when it ignites! Be warned, if it is + shaken suddenly, the matches can ignite in your hand, thus exploding + the gunpowder early. I once dropped a box of strike anywhere matches + on a table and the all ignited within seconds. If gunpowder had been + in the box, it would not have been a pretty sight. diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomco.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomco.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ba87c10a --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomco.txt @@ -0,0 +1,675 @@ + + __________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________________________________________ +| \ +| By: The Mentor & The Dead Kennedy | +| | +| An Anarchists-R-Us Release | +| | +| Call these fine systems: | +| | +| The Lighthouse............504-291-5690 300/1200 AE 10Meg PW:Ocean | +| The Pitstop...............504-774-7126 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg | +| Pirate Chip...............206-735-7468 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg | +| Silent World..............318-357-0858 CF 10 meg | +| The Asylum................504-831-4348 PW:Sanity | +| | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + +Napalm +------ + Mix gasoline with dish washing detergent (Ivory Soap) untill the + solution is like honey. Use it in a bottle with a rag as molotov + cocktail or paint it on something and light it. It will burn alot + longer than regular gas. + +Land Mine #1 +------------ + Take a soup can and line the inside with Petroleum jelly (enough so + you won't have air between the cup and can. Place a Styrofoam cup + inside the can and f)lU it with gasoline. Cover the soup can with a + sheet of Aluminum foil and tape it down so it is air tight. Place can + in a freezer over night. Dig a small hole in the ground and place the + can in it foil side up. Cover it up with with dirt about one inch + thick. Carefully place a nail in the dirt (don't break the foil!). + When someone steps on the nail and pierces the foil, the mine will + go off and so will their foot. + +Land Mine #2 +------------ + Get a push button switch. Take the wires and connect one end to a + 9 volt battery connecter and the other to a Solar Igniter. Connect + the other wire of the battery to the other wire on the solar igniter. + Connect the solar igniter to the fuse of one of your favorite bombs + (M-80, pipe bomb, etc.). Dig a hole, not too deep, but enough to + cover up the whole thing. Plant the switch under a leaf or something + and plant the bomb about 5 feet away. When the person steps on the + switch, there should be a 3 second delay, then it will blow. + +Black Powder +------------ + Place 5 pints of alcohol in a bucket. In another bucket, put 3 cups + of granulated potassium nitrate, 2 cups powdered wood charcoal, and + 1/2 cup of powdered sulfur into the bucket. Add 1 cup of water and + stir well with a wooden stick. Place the bucket on a heat source and + add 2 more cups of water and wait for it to bubble but don't let it + boil. Remove the bucket from the heat and pour it into the alcohol + while stirring well. Let the alcohol stand for about 5 minutes. Strain + the liquid through cheesecloth to remove the powder. Wrap the cloth + around the powder and squeeze out the excess liquid. Place a piece + of screen on top of a bucket. Place a workable amount of black powder + (That black muddy looking stuff) on the screen and begin to workd it + through. Spread the end result on a piece of newspaper and let it dry + in the sunlight. Now you have black powder which can be used to make + other bombs. + +Impact Bomb +----------- + Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight + and pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance. + Let it dry untill it hardens up. To use it, put it in a bottle or + can and just drop it or throw it at something. + +Carbide Bomb +------------ + This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... + Obtain some calcium carbide. This stuff can be found at nearly any + hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) + and put it in a glass jar with some water. Cover the jar tightly. The + carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which + is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass + with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag + nearby, you will get a nice fireball. + +Exhaust Bomb +------------ + Install a spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail + pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. + Attach a wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the + switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached + to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply + hit the switch and watch the flames. + +Turn Signal +----------- + Detach the plastic running light (or turn signal) cover on someones + car. Break the bulb. Test the bulb with a voltage meter to make sure + it is not live. Pack the bulb with Flash Paper and replace the cover. + When the person starts his car or goes to turn, a quick burst of flame + will pop out of the back of his car making him think it is on fire. + + +Winger +------ + This is the ultimate in assault devices. It is a large, three person + sling-shot designed for hurling water baloons up to 100 yards. They + are supposed to leave the sling-shot at 240mph but through personal + experience, I've gotten some to go at least 150-200 yards. As for the + speed, I don't know. These are good for launching almost anything + that is not motion sensitive. You can get them at some boat shops + (that's where I got mine), or you can order them from: + + Winger Sports LTD. + 2167 Buhl Avenue + North St. Paul Minnesota 55109 + + __________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________________________________________ +| \ +| (C) 1985/86 By Anarchists-R-Us and The Mentor | +| | +| All Rights Reserved | +| | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + + ___________________________________________________________________________ + / _________________________________________________________________________ \ +/ / Terrorist Home Companion ][ | | Cool Boards \ \ +| | "The Day After" | | | | +| | | | Pitstop | | +| | By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | | 504-774-7126 | | +| | | | Silicon Valley | | +| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 | | 504-241-3452 | | +\ \______________________________________________________|_|________________/ / + \___________________________________________________________________________/ + +Intro: + + It's time for another file to be written. People tell me "From your + files, you don't look very much like an Anarchist, I mean, you use + fair grammar and all..". I would just like to say that I am an + Anarchist, not an illiterate (sounds pretty fake coming from some one + in New Orleans).. Also, as you can see, I'm running out of ideas. If + anyone has any good ideas or even thoughts about making bombs, tell + me. I can take a thought and turn it into a Cat Bomb for instance.. + On to the Bombs! + + +Shocking Experience +-------- ---------- + + Run a wire from spark plug #1 on your car (preferably 6 or 8 cylinder + engine) out to the bumper. Fix a rubber platform to the bumper (if you + have a metal one) and attach a coat hanger to the wire and prop it up + like a ram-rod. Next, pull up behind some fool outside of a shopping + mall waiting to pick someone up. Touch the coat hanger to the car and + rev up your engine a little. The next person to touch a metal part of + the car will get a 12 volt current through their whole body! Not enough + to kill (unless the guy has a pace maker), but enough to make them jump + and scare the shit out of 'em! + + +Cat Bomb +--- ---- + + Take a full can of tuna. Open it, remove all of the tuna and clean it + out real good. Drill a small hole in the side and then nail the can + down to a piece of plywood. Take a Champagne Party Popper and remove + the little explosive device on the string. Run this through the hole + (so the explosive in on the inside and the string on the outside) and + fill the can up with about 1/8 inch of gunpowder (Heavily salt-petered + for easy ignition). Place the lid back on and pack it down good. Use + Clay or Silicon to seal up the cracks on the sides. Put some of the + tuna back on top and place the bomb in the path of some soon to be + suprised feline! Tie a string to the igniter string and hide about + 20-30 feet away. When the cat stops to have a bite, pull the string! + And if all works well, the device should explode and scare or kill + the little furry bastard. + + +Loud Pipe Bomb +---- ---- ---- + + Mix Potassium Perchlorate with some 600 mesh Aluminum Powder in a + 2/1 ratio. Drill a small hole in a small piece of 1/4 in. copper + tubing. Place a fuse in the hole, pack the tube with the above + mixture, and close both ends of the tube. If you don't know what + to do from here, you shouldn't be reading this! + + +Bird Buster +---- ------ + + This isn't really a bomb, but it's fun anyway! Place some Alka-Seltzer + in someones bird feeder. When the bird eats it, it starts producing + gas. The bird can't release the gas and if he ate enough, he should + explode! + + +Tennis Ball +------ ---- + + Take a box of kitchen matches and saw all of the heads off (must be + white tips! The kind you can light on the ground!). Get a tennis ball + and pop a little hole in the top. Put the match heads in the tennis + ball untill it is full (this takes a while). Throw it at hard as you + can at your target. If the match heads were packed tight enough, it + should produce a nice sized explosion. + + +Time Delay +---- ----- + + These are the simplest forms of time delays for bombs that use fuses. + (1) Light a cigarette and break off the filter. Place the end of the + fuse in the end where the filter used to be. In about 10-15 minutes, + your device should go off. (2) Set up your bomb on a wooden platform + (When planting bombs, I always do so I don't have to waste time + setting up). Place a drop of glue on the wood and mount a party candle + on it. Lay the fuse of the bomb across the candle where it cannot move + and the flame cannot miss it. These "always" work and I have never had + any problem with either one. + +Drink Fun +----- --- + + If you want to have some fun and scare on of your friends, take a 9 + volt battery and drop it in his or her drink. When they go to take + a sip, they'll get a small shock and probably spill their drink all + over themselves. + +Locker Fun +------ --- + + If you would like to get revenge on someone in school, wait till before + a real long holiday (or a weekend if you can't wait). Take an apple and + grate it on the locker vents. If the person doesn't find out, in about + a day or so, his or her lcoker should be surrounded by fruit flies and + all of their belongings should stink pretty bad! + + ___________________________________________________________________________ + / _________________________________________________________________________ \ +/ / \ \ +| | Terrorist Home Companion ][ "The Day After" By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | | +| | | | +| | Original Name (Terrorist Home Companion) By: The Mentor | | +| | | | +| | Special Thanks to: BugByter, Soft Jock, Blue Max | | +| | | | +| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | | +| | | | +| | "Where there's a will, there's a dead person" -TDK | | +\ \________________________________________________________________________/ / + \__________________________________________________________________________/ + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + + _________________________________________________________________________ + / _______________________________________________________________________ \ +| / Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the Suburbs!" \ | +| | | | +| | By: The Dead Kennedy & Repo Man Call These: | | +| | Pitstop 10m AE/CF...504-774-7126 | | +| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 Silicon Valley......504-241-3452 | | +| | | | +| \______________________________________________________________________/ | +\__________________________________________________________________________/ + + + +Dept. Store Fun +--------------- + + Most department stores have those little clamp on deals that they stick + on clothes to keep people from stealing them. Do what you must do to + get one of these (a friend who is employed there, hold the place up, + whatever). Find some lady with 3-5 kids, a stroller, a huge purse and + lots of other stuff that would make her look suspicious. Stumble by and + plant this little devices in one of her pockets and wait by the exit. + when she walks out.. Bells! Cops! the works.. And to top it all off, + one embarrased lady! Another way is to take the thing home and rip the + little metal thing out of it (looks like a piece of card board with + metal wrapped around it). Place it deep in your wallet or in your pants + and wait around by the entrance. When you see the same type of person + going out, you go in! Same effects. Only problem is, you have to get + back out! I suggest just leaving the little prize on someone in the + store and leaving (don't hang around, or do it at the same store twice, + the Cops may get suspicious of you). + +Street Fun +---------- + + Take some fishing line and run it across the street. Next, hang rocks, + bolts, sinkers, etc. at windshield level. Find a telephone pole or a + tree to run it across on. Another thing to do is to use light string + to tie 2 garbage cans together and run the string across the street. + If you can't figure out what that does, you shouldn't be reading this + file! + +Bolt Bomb +--------- + + Take a bolt, 2 washers, and 2 nuts. Screw on the first bolt, place a + washer after it. Put gun powder on the washer, put the next washer on, + and screw on the last nut so that the nut is hanging out past the end + of the bolt and the 2 washers are pushed together. Drop the bolt on the + bottom nut and it will explode. Nothing big, but it is re-usable. Kinda + like the space shuttle. Uh, scratch that last part. + +Spoke Gun +--------- + + Take a bicycle spoke and that little nut that holds it onto the rim. + Screw the spoke into the the nut a little bit. Powderize a match head + and push it into the nut. Pack a wad of paper into the nut with another + spoke. Hold the device from the end that doesn't have the screw on it + and then hold a flame under the nut. When it gets hot enough, it will + blow up and send the paper flying. This is small scale. If you wanted + to, you could use a piece of threaded rod and a 1 1/2 inch long nut to + make the results a little more interesting. You can even add your own + projectiles. Just be sure that the paper is in tight enough to compact + the powder. + +Flour & Gas +----------- + + Take a new bag of ordinary household flour and pour gas on it. Light + it and drop it off of something high onto a hard surface. No explosion, + but it gives a nice efect. Kinda like an Atomic Bomb. + +PineSol & Cl +------------ + + Wrap some cholrine up in a paper towel and tie it up tight. Next, tape + it high on the inside of a Mayonaise jar (See illus. 'A'). Fill the + bottom of the jar up (don't touch the paper!) with PineSol. Screw the + top back on and place it on the ground. When ready, knock the jar over + and run like a bat out of hell (haul the mail, cruise, mobeelin', bust + ass, do what you have to do, just get away!). It will explode, and + release alot of chlorine gas. Don't breathe it in! It will kill you! + +( illustration A ) + /========\ <- Lid + | *| <- Chlorine + | *| <- + | | + |'.'.'.'.| <- PineSol + |.'.'.'.'| <- + \________/ <- + + +Hefty Gas +--------- + + Fill a hefty bag with gas from a gas stove. Tape a fuse to it and light it. Have a book of matches at the end of the fuse to insure ignition. + Woof! No more hefty bag! Or if you want to add some fun to it, forget + the fuse and just shoot bottle rockets at it. Same effect. + +Door Shock +---------- + + For this, you will need a 12 volt transformer. Strip about 1 inch off + of the end of each wire. Run the wires out of your bedroom door. Place + some electrical tape on the bottom of the outside door knob and then + tape the bare wires down so they won't touch. Disguise the wires so + they won't look suspicious. Turn on the transformer and wait for a + victim. This is the ultimate in privacy protection devices. Don't + use more than 12 volts. You can kill somebody. + + _____________________________________________________________________________ +/ _________________________________________________________________________ \ +| ! ! | +| | Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the suburbs" | | +| | | | +| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | | +| | | | +| | "If the shoe fits, try it on the other foot, and it will feel | | +| | different" -Repo Man | | +| | | | +| | Note: The Mentor in previous files with The Dead Kennedy is >NOT< the | | +| | same Mentor who turned in those people for Phreaking. -TDK | | +| !_________________________________________________________________________! | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + + _____________________________ +| Terrorist Home Companion IV |_______________________________________________ +| "More Creative Ideas" | +| qp Call These qp | +| By: The CPA and The Dead Kennedy / aRu db ---- ----- db | +| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp | +| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db | +|Some ideas by: Mr. Steroid and friends qp qp | +| Typed by: CPA, Edited & Title by: TDK db db | +|_____________________________________________________________________________| + + + +Doorstop Bomb +------------- + + Take a .22 caliber bullet and remove the lead. Pack a wad of paper + in the open cavity and make sure that the gunpowder is still firmly + packed in place. Now, take a BB and tape it to the firing cap. Go + to the door stop (the spring kind with the rubber tip work great!) + and remove the rubber cap and slip the shell into the hole in the + center of the spring. Pack it in there tightly, wrap tape around the + shell if it does not fit snuggly}~PNext, replace the rubber cap if you + can. You want the end with the BB taped to it sticking out of the + stopper. When someone opens the door into the stopper, bam! You can + leave the lead in the shell if you wanna risk killing the victim or + an innocent bystander. + + +Flashbulb Fun +------------- + + If you take a flashcube and pull out the little bulbs in it, you will + discover that when you smash the little power suckers, they go off! + They are real hot too! Just about hot enough to be an igniter. + Try taping one to a doorstop with a fuse of your favorite pyrotechnic + taped to it. Try taping one to the inside of a gas pump "Holster", + if you wish. Just make sure that the bulb will get a good smack and + it will go off. Don't try it in your hands or anything like that + because the magnesium in the bulb will burn the living hell out of + you. + + +House Bomb +---------- + + O.K. so this one is really sick. Go into the home of your victim + and tape or superglue a couple of kitchen matches to the bottom + of the door so that the tips will drag on the ground. Now tape or + glue some light grit sanding paper or emery cloth to the floor in + the path of the oncoming matches. That was easy, now you go around the + house and put out the pilot lights and crank up the gas. Get em all + out first or you may be part of the bomb. Now, get out of the house + before you sufficate! Stop!! DON'T USE THE SAME DOOR TO LEAVE!!!! + O.K. you can sit back and wait for the bar-b-que family to get home + and watch the fireworks or you can move away to the nearest friendly + neighboring country. If you do decide to stay, don't stand too close, + or you may end up a tater tot. + + +Wimp Startler +------------- + + Simple, cheap, safe. Blow up a clear balloon inside of a light fixture + so that it touches the lightbulb. If possible, have it on top of the + bulb because heat rises and will pop the balloon sooner (before the + geek says, "Gee, its kinda not as bright as it used to be." When the + light goes on, the balloon goes off. Nothing great but you won't go + to jail for it. + + +Light Igniter +------------ + + If you smash even a burned out light bulb and twist the ends of the + element together, it makes a beauty of a starter for any fire needed + explosion device. Just tape on the old fuse and leave. + + +Starter Startler +--------------- + + You can take a wire and run it from the coil in your pals car to the + steering wheel (if it's metal) or to the ignition key slot. When quizmo + goes to start his car- buzzzzzzzzzzzzzap! Nothing like smoking fingers! + This one has interesting side effects on pace maker patients. + + +Party Balloom +------------- + + Before your next party where smoking and drinking will occur (I do so + hate cigarette smoke), fill up a few balloms with natural gas from the + stove or bar-b-que. When you pals (or enemies) get loaded and start + popping the ballons, like they always will. Some dork will decide to + pop a few with his stogey. If all goes well, one of them might give him + a little surprise. + + +Auto Annihilator +---------------- + + You owners of pick up trucks are already in possesion of urban assault + vehicles. All you need is some nice size rollable objects, some cord, + and some duct tape. Tape over the latch that hold the tailgate shut. + Tie a cord from the inside of the cab to the tailgate to hold it + closed. Now, put a bowling ball, shopping cart, tire, large diameter + steel pipe, etc. in the bed of the truck. It must be large enough to + roll over the gap between the tailgate and the bed. So now your + cruising along the interstate at 65mph and some prick pisses you off. + Just pull ahead of him, floor it, and release the tailgate cord. + Now look in the rearview mirror. Where is the asshole? Oh, that's him + spinning out of control with a grocery cart stuck in his grill. Or + is that him over there in the ditch along side of the road. No! + wait! that's him speeding up to catch you! No problem. You were smart + enough to have a few more goodies tied to another cord, like a bowling + ball. Let her rip! Wham! Yeah, that's him with the broken steering + rods smashing into the divider. I knew he was back there somewhere. + Try it going up a steep hill or a bridge to take out more happy + motorists. + + +Flare Fun +--------- + + Take the glass off of a light bulb and fill it with the yellow + make from grinding up the inside of a road flare. Tape the glass + back on and screw it back into the socket. Give a new meaning to + the "Red Light" district. + + +Non-Handymans Bomb +------------------ + + Go to the nearest auto parts store and pick up a pack of road flares + and an aerosol can of starter fluid. Take the flare and duct tape it + to the can so that the first inch or so of the flare will burn with + out touching the side of the can. When you wanna blow it up, use the + handy little scratch-n-start piece of the flare and let it blow. + Not too difficult, eh? + + +Fun With Cyano +-------------- + + You call it superglue, we call it fun. Any Cyanoacrilate glue will + do the job. It is the best prankster material ever produced by a + manufacturer. Here are a few ideas to get you started. Glue the door + to the school shut. Glue car doors, car locks, and car trunks. Glue + money to the floor at the mall. On a busy day at the mall, put some on + a coin and roll it infront of some lozers. It won't dry until it hits + their skin because it needs moisture to dry. Spill some on your enemies + pants. Glue the dictionary shut. Glue books to the table at t8e# + library. Glue windsheild wipers down. Glue gaps caps on. The + possibilities are endless. Cyano takes a while to dry on metal + surfaces. When you put a few drops of cyano in baking soda or on saw + dust, it turns to a rock hard substance. Fill the desired spot with + the powder, and apply as much glue as necessary. + + _____________________________________________________________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion IV "More Creative Ideas" \ +| (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | +| "Lead us not into temptation.. Tell us where it is, we'll find it" -TDK | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + + _____________________________ +| Terrorist Home Companion V |_______________________________________________ +| "The day we make contact" | +| qp Call These qp | +| By: Soft Jock and The Dead Kennedy db ---- ----- db | +| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp | +| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db | +|This file written in remembrance of Bug qp both 3/12 10m BBS/AE/CF qp | +| Byter and Soft Jock (MCI, R.I.P.) db db | +|_____________________________________________________________________________| + + + With World War III knocking on our door, I feel it is every persons +right to be able to protect and defend his or her's investments. With the +Government making it almost impossible for the average person to have a decent +weapon, I guess that only means that you will have to make them yourself. So, +I've come back with a few more ideas, both serious and prank. + +Fire Grenade Launcher +--------------------- + + First, you will need a 12 or 16 gauge shotgun. You must mount two + T=ygs to it and make it like a tripod with the stock being the third + leg. Take a shell and hacksaw off the front part with the shot in + it. Place the modified shell in the chamber. Take a long piece of + circular wood (like a broomstick) and shove it in through the barell. + Make sure it is at least touching the shell (don't push too hard + unless you want a broomstick through your head!). Next, mount a + small rubber platform on the end of the stick. Securely fasten a + molotov cocktail the the platform (coke bottle filled with gas, + oil, detergent, and an oily rag in the top). Light the rag and pull + the trigger. With practice, you can shoot this thing wih amazing + accuracy. + + +Explosive Ideas +--------------- + + Everyone has made a bomb and just lit it and watched it go boom. + there are ways to get more out of your boom. If you take something + like sandbags or bags of cement and lay them on top or on the sides + of your bomb, the result will be much more damaging and will create + a smoke screen (if you use something like cement or flour and not + rocks or sand). + + +Itching Powder +-------------- + + I know this is no Anarchy, but ideas are running low. This, however, + makes a great practical joke! Get some fiberglass insulation (either + by punching a hole in your wall and removing it, or by going to a + construction sight and lifting it). Grind it up good (for large + amounts, I suggest something like a blender). Now just place this + pink powder anywhere you wish. This is better than the stuff you can + buy in the store. I got some asshole in the movies and he itched + all throughout the show. Don't ask me why I had itching powder in + the movies, but it did work. + + +Rain Detination +--------------- + + Here's an easy way to let mother nature help you set off a few bombs + (they must be ELECTRICAL). If it's raining out, place 2 test leads + into a cup (or 2 wires), each on opposite sides, so that they are + touching the bottom of the cup. Next place some metalic substance + (that DOES conduct electricity) in the bottom (not too much! Don't + connect the wires!). Wire up your favorite bomb around this leaving + the only break in the circuit in the bottom of the cup. When it rains + enough, the water will begin to fill cup, mix with the metal, and act + as a bridge for the electricity. If all was set up correctly, your + device should go off. In the event of no rain, just use one of those + Solar Cells (obtainable from Radio Shack) and connect it to a solar + igniter (this must be a FIRE type bomb with a fuse!). Connect the + igniter to the fuse, set the bomb in a shady place (that is soon + to be in the light), and leave. All should go as planned. + + +Whistler Bomb +------------- + + Do you have one of those asshole coaches in your school always + blowing that damn whistle at you? If so, here's an idea that will + shut his ass up for a while. First, make a small batch of your + favorite friction sensitive explosive (see early "Terrorist Home + Companion" files written by me and a few other aRu members). Fill + his whistle up with it (not a whole bunch or he'll notice. Just enough + so it will make a boom he will never forget. Now, go be an asshole on + the field and wait for his to give it a good blow. "Gee coach, how did + you get shrapnel in your face?" + + +Exploding Pipe +-------------- + + So you have that asshole teacher or mean old man on the block who + smokes a (cough, cough) pipe. Or maybe even your favorite weedhead. + Steal the guys pipe (like from his car). If it is a good pipe, you + should be able to pull it into 2 pieces. Clean it out (with a pipe + cleaner, they're cheap). Run a fuse from the bowl back to where the + pipe goes back together. Place a small explosive inside the tube + where the smoke comes through to the mouth and wire it up to the + fuse. Next, replace the burnt tobacco that was in the bowl and put + it back where you got it from. "What's wrong, not getting enough + drag? Maybe you should suck harder. Boom!" + + _____________________________________________________________________________ +/ _________________________________________________________________________ \ +| ! ! | +| | Terrorist Home Companion part V "The day we make contact" | | +| | | | +| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | | +| | | | +| | "Anarchists don't die, they just lose their cars and re-group" | | +| | -Soft Jock | | +| !_________________________________________________________________________! | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx1.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx1.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..34963804 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx1.ana @@ -0,0 +1,125 @@ + + __________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________________________________________ +| \ +| By: The Mentor & The Dead Kennedy | +| | +| An Anarchists-R-Us Release | +| | +| Call these fine systems: | +| | +| The Lighthouse............504-291-5690 300/1200 AE 10Meg PW:Ocean | +| The Pitstop...............504-774-7126 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg | +| Pirate Chip...............206-735-7468 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg | +| Silent World..............318-357-0858 CF 10 meg | +| The Asylum................504-831-4348 PW:Sanity | +| | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + +Napalm +------ + Mix gasoline with dish washing detergent (Ivory Soap) untill the + solution is like honey. Use it in a bottle with a rag as molotov + cocktail or paint it on something and light it. It will burn alot + longer than regular gas. + +Land Mine #1 +------------ + Take a soup can and line the inside with Petroleum jelly (enough so + you won't have air between the cup and can. Place a Styrofoam cup + inside the can and f)lU it with gasoline. Cover the soup can with a + sheet of Aluminum foil and tape it down so it is air tight. Place can + in a freezer over night. Dig a small hole in the ground and place the + can in it foil side up. Cover it up with with dirt about one inch + thick. Carefully place a nail in the dirt (don't break the foil!). + When someone steps on the nail and pierces the foil, the mine will + go off and so will their foot. + +Land Mine #2 +------------ + Get a push button switch. Take the wires and connect one end to a + 9 volt battery connecter and the other to a Solar Igniter. Connect + the other wire of the battery to the other wire on the solar igniter. + Connect the solar igniter to the fuse of one of your favorite bombs + (M-80, pipe bomb, etc.). Dig a hole, not too deep, but enough to + cover up the whole thing. Plant the switch under a leaf or something + and plant the bomb about 5 feet away. When the person steps on the + switch, there should be a 3 second delay, then it will blow. + +Black Powder +------------ + Place 5 pints of alcohol in a bucket. In another bucket, put 3 cups + of granulated potassium nitrate, 2 cups powdered wood charcoal, and + 1/2 cup of powdered sulfur into the bucket. Add 1 cup of water and + stir well with a wooden stick. Place the bucket on a heat source and + add 2 more cups of water and wait for it to bubble but don't let it + boil. Remove the bucket from the heat and pour it into the alcohol + while stirring well. Let the alcohol stand for about 5 minutes. Strain + the liquid through cheesecloth to remove the powder. Wrap the cloth + around the powder and squeeze out the excess liquid. Place a piece + of screen on top of a bucket. Place a workable amount of black powder + (That black muddy looking stuff) on the screen and begin to workd it + through. Spread the end result on a piece of newspaper and let it dry + in the sunlight. Now you have black powder which can be used to make + other bombs. + +Impact Bomb +----------- + Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight + and pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance. + Let it dry untill it hardens up. To use it, put it in a bottle or + can and just drop it or throw it at something. + +Carbide Bomb +------------ + This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... + Obtain some calcium carbide. This stuff can be found at nearly any + hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) + and put it in a glass jar with some water. Cover the jar tightly. The + carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which + is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass + with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag + nearby, you will get a nice fireball. + +Exhaust Bomb +------------ + Install a spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail + pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. + Attach a wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the + switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached + to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply + hit the switch and watch the flames. + +Turn Signal +----------- + Detach the plastic running light (or turn signal) cover on someones + car. Break the bulb. Test the bulb with a voltage meter to make sure + it is not live. Pack the bulb with Flash Paper and replace the cover. + When the person starts his car or goes to turn, a quick burst of flame + will pop out of the back of his car making him think it is on fire. + + +Winger +------ + This is the ultimate in assault devices. It is a large, three person + sling-shot designed for hurling water baloons up to 100 yards. They + are supposed to leave the sling-shot at 240mph but through personal + experience, I've gotten some to go at least 150-200 yards. As for the + speed, I don't know. These are good for launching almost anything + that is not motion sensitive. You can get them at some boat shops + (that's where I got mine), or you can order them from: + + Winger Sports LTD. + 2167 Buhl Avenue + North St. Paul Minnesota 55109 + + __________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________________________________________ +| \ +| (C) 1985/86 By Anarchists-R-Us and The Mentor | +| | +| All Rights Reserved | +| | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx2.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx2.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..5ebd3933 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx2.ana @@ -0,0 +1,132 @@ + ___________________________________________________________________________ + / _________________________________________________________________________ \ +/ / Terrorist Home Companion ][ | | Cool Boards \ \ +| | "The Day After" | | | | +| | | | Pitstop | | +| | By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | | 504-774-7126 | | +| | | | Silicon Valley | | +| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 | | 504-241-3452 | | +\ \______________________________________________________|_|________________/ / + \___________________________________________________________________________/ + +Intro: + + It's time for another file to be written. People tell me "From your + files, you don't look very much like an Anarchist, I mean, you use + fair grammar and all..". I would just like to say that I am an + Anarchist, not an illiterate (sounds pretty fake coming from some one + in New Orleans).. Also, as you can see, I'm running out of ideas. If + anyone has any good ideas or even thoughts about making bombs, tell + me. I can take a thought and turn it into a Cat Bomb for instance.. + On to the Bombs! + + +Shocking Experience +-------- ---------- + + Run a wire from spark plug #1 on your car (preferably 6 or 8 cylinder + engine) out to the bumper. Fix a rubber platform to the bumper (if you + have a metal one) and attach a coat hanger to the wire and prop it up + like a ram-rod. Next, pull up behind some fool outside of a shopping + mall waiting to pick someone up. Touch the coat hanger to the car and + rev up your engine a little. The next person to touch a metal part of + the car will get a 12 volt current through their whole body! Not enough + to kill (unless the guy has a pace maker), but enough to make them jump + and scare the shit out of 'em! + + +Cat Bomb +--- ---- + + Take a full can of tuna. Open it, remove all of the tuna and clean it + out real good. Drill a small hole in the side and then nail the can + down to a piece of plywood. Take a Champagne Party Popper and remove + the little explosive device on the string. Run this through the hole + (so the explosive in on the inside and the string on the outside) and + fill the can up with about 1/8 inch of gunpowder (Heavily salt-petered + for easy ignition). Place the lid back on and pack it down good. Use + Clay or Silicon to seal up the cracks on the sides. Put some of the + tuna back on top and place the bomb in the path of some soon to be + suprised feline! Tie a string to the igniter string and hide about + 20-30 feet away. When the cat stops to have a bite, pull the string! + And if all works well, the device should explode and scare or kill + the little furry bastard. + + +Loud Pipe Bomb +---- ---- ---- + + Mix Potassium Perchlorate with some 600 mesh Aluminum Powder in a + 2/1 ratio. Drill a small hole in a small piece of 1/4 in. copper + tubing. Place a fuse in the hole, pack the tube with the above + mixture, and close both ends of the tube. If you don't know what + to do from here, you shouldn't be reading this! + + +Bird Buster +---- ------ + + This isn't really a bomb, but it's fun anyway! Place some Alka-Seltzer + in someones bird feeder. When the bird eats it, it starts producing + gas. The bird can't release the gas and if he ate enough, he should + explode! + + +Tennis Ball +------ ---- + + Take a box of kitchen matches and saw all of the heads off (must be + white tips! The kind you can light on the ground!). Get a tennis ball + and pop a little hole in the top. Put the match heads in the tennis + ball untill it is full (this takes a while). Throw it at hard as you + can at your target. If the match heads were packed tight enough, it + should produce a nice sized explosion. + + +Time Delay +---- ----- + + These are the simplest forms of time delays for bombs that use fuses. + (1) Light a cigarette and break off the filter. Place the end of the + fuse in the end where the filter used to be. In about 10-15 minutes, + your device should go off. (2) Set up your bomb on a wooden platform + (When planting bombs, I always do so I don't have to waste time + setting up). Place a drop of glue on the wood and mount a party candle + on it. Lay the fuse of the bomb across the candle where it cannot move + and the flame cannot miss it. These "always" work and I have never had + any problem with either one. + +Drink Fun +----- --- + + If you want to have some fun and scare on of your friends, take a 9 + volt battery and drop it in his or her drink. When they go to take + a sip, they'll get a small shock and probably spill their drink all + over themselves. + +Locker Fun +------ --- + + If you would like to get revenge on someone in school, wait till before + a real long holiday (or a weekend if you can't wait). Take an apple and + grate it on the locker vents. If the person doesn't find out, in about + a day or so, his or her lcoker should be surrounded by fruit flies and + all of their belongings should stink pretty bad! + + ___________________________________________________________________________ + / _________________________________________________________________________ \ +/ / \ \ +| | Terrorist Home Companion ][ "The Day After" By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | | +| | | | +| | Original Name (Terrorist Home Companion) By: The Mentor | | +| | | | +| | Special Thanks to: BugByter, Soft Jock, Blue Max | | +| | | | +| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | | +| | | | +| | "Where there's a will, there's a dead person" -TDK | | +\ \________________________________________________________________________/ / + \__________________________________________________________________________/ + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx3.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx3.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d19596a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx3.ana @@ -0,0 +1,129 @@ + _________________________________________________________________________ + / _______________________________________________________________________ \ +| / Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the Suburbs!" \ | +| | | | +| | By: The Dead Kennedy & Repo Man Call These: | | +| | Pitstop 10m AE/CF...504-774-7126 | | +| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 Silicon Valley......504-241-3452 | | +| | | | +| \______________________________________________________________________/ | +\__________________________________________________________________________/ + + + +Dept. Store Fun +--------------- + + Most department stores have those little clamp on deals that they stick + on clothes to keep people from stealing them. Do what you must do to + get one of these (a friend who is employed there, hold the place up, + whatever). Find some lady with 3-5 kids, a stroller, a huge purse and + lots of other stuff that would make her look suspicious. Stumble by and + plant this little devices in one of her pockets and wait by the exit. + when she walks out.. Bells! Cops! the works.. And to top it all off, + one embarrased lady! Another way is to take the thing home and rip the + little metal thing out of it (looks like a piece of card board with + metal wrapped around it). Place it deep in your wallet or in your pants + and wait around by the entrance. When you see the same type of person + going out, you go in! Same effects. Only problem is, you have to get + back out! I suggest just leaving the little prize on someone in the + store and leaving (don't hang around, or do it at the same store twice, + the Cops may get suspicious of you). + +Street Fun +---------- + + Take some fishing line and run it across the street. Next, hang rocks, + bolts, sinkers, etc. at windshield level. Find a telephone pole or a + tree to run it across on. Another thing to do is to use light string + to tie 2 garbage cans together and run the string across the street. + If you can't figure out what that does, you shouldn't be reading this + file! + +Bolt Bomb +--------- + + Take a bolt, 2 washers, and 2 nuts. Screw on the first bolt, place a + washer after it. Put gun powder on the washer, put the next washer on, + and screw on the last nut so that the nut is hanging out past the end + of the bolt and the 2 washers are pushed together. Drop the bolt on the + bottom nut and it will explode. Nothing big, but it is re-usable. Kinda + like the space shuttle. Uh, scratch that last part. + +Spoke Gun +--------- + + Take a bicycle spoke and that little nut that holds it onto the rim. + Screw the spoke into the the nut a little bit. Powderize a match head + and push it into the nut. Pack a wad of paper into the nut with another + spoke. Hold the device from the end that doesn't have the screw on it + and then hold a flame under the nut. When it gets hot enough, it will + blow up and send the paper flying. This is small scale. If you wanted + to, you could use a piece of threaded rod and a 1 1/2 inch long nut to + make the results a little more interesting. You can even add your own + projectiles. Just be sure that the paper is in tight enough to compact + the powder. + +Flour & Gas +----------- + + Take a new bag of ordinary household flour and pour gas on it. Light + it and drop it off of something high onto a hard surface. No explosion, + but it gives a nice efect. Kinda like an Atomic Bomb. + +PineSol & Cl +------------ + + Wrap some cholrine up in a paper towel and tie it up tight. Next, tape + it high on the inside of a Mayonaise jar (See illus. 'A'). Fill the + bottom of the jar up (don't touch the paper!) with PineSol. Screw the + top back on and place it on the ground. When ready, knock the jar over + and run like a bat out of hell (haul the mail, cruise, mobeelin', bust + ass, do what you have to do, just get away!). It will explode, and + release alot of chlorine gas. Don't breathe it in! It will kill you! + +( illustration A ) + /========\ <- Lid + | *| <- Chlorine + | *| <- + | | + |'.'.'.'.| <- PineSol + |.'.'.'.'| <- + \________/ <- + + +Hefty Gas +--------- + + Fill a hefty bag with gas from a gas stove. Tape a fuse to it and light it. Have a book of matches at the end of the fuse to insure ignition. + Woof! No more hefty bag! Or if you want to add some fun to it, forget + the fuse and just shoot bottle rockets at it. Same effect. + +Door Shock +---------- + + For this, you will need a 12 volt transformer. Strip about 1 inch off + of the end of each wire. Run the wires out of your bedroom door. Place + some electrical tape on the bottom of the outside door knob and then + tape the bare wires down so they won't touch. Disguise the wires so + they won't look suspicious. Turn on the transformer and wait for a + victim. This is the ultimate in privacy protection devices. Don't + use more than 12 volts. You can kill somebody. + + _____________________________________________________________________________ +/ _________________________________________________________________________ \ +| ! ! | +| | Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the suburbs" | | +| | | | +| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | | +| | | | +| | "If the shoe fits, try it on the other foot, and it will feel | | +| | different" -Repo Man | | +| | | | +| | Note: The Mentor in previous files with The Dead Kennedy is >NOT< the | | +| | same Mentor who turned in those people for Phreaking. -TDK | | +| !_________________________________________________________________________! | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx4.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx4.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d2895ebd --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx4.ana @@ -0,0 +1,167 @@ + _____________________________ +| Terrorist Home Companion IV |_______________________________________________ +| "More Creative Ideas" | +| qp Call These qp | +| By: The CPA and The Dead Kennedy / aRu db ---- ----- db | +| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp | +| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db | +|Some ideas by: Mr. Steroid and friends qp qp | +| Typed by: CPA, Edited & Title by: TDK db db | +|_____________________________________________________________________________| + + + +Doorstop Bomb +------------- + + Take a .22 caliber bullet and remove the lead. Pack a wad of paper + in the open cavity and make sure that the gunpowder is still firmly + packed in place. Now, take a BB and tape it to the firing cap. Go + to the door stop (the spring kind with the rubber tip work great!) + and remove the rubber cap and slip the shell into the hole in the + center of the spring. Pack it in there tightly, wrap tape around the + shell if it does not fit snuggly}~PNext, replace the rubber cap if you + can. You want the end with the BB taped to it sticking out of the + stopper. When someone opens the door into the stopper, bam! You can + leave the lead in the shell if you wanna risk killing the victim or + an innocent bystander. + + +Flashbulb Fun +------------- + + If you take a flashcube and pull out the little bulbs in it, you will + discover that when you smash the little power suckers, they go off! + They are real hot too! Just about hot enough to be an igniter. + Try taping one to a doorstop with a fuse of your favorite pyrotechnic + taped to it. Try taping one to the inside of a gas pump "Holster", + if you wish. Just make sure that the bulb will get a good smack and + it will go off. Don't try it in your hands or anything like that + because the magnesium in the bulb will burn the living hell out of + you. + + +House Bomb +---------- + + O.K. so this one is really sick. Go into the home of your victim + and tape or superglue a couple of kitchen matches to the bottom + of the door so that the tips will drag on the ground. Now tape or + glue some light grit sanding paper or emery cloth to the floor in + the path of the oncoming matches. That was easy, now you go around the + house and put out the pilot lights and crank up the gas. Get em all + out first or you may be part of the bomb. Now, get out of the house + before you sufficate! Stop!! DON'T USE THE SAME DOOR TO LEAVE!!!! + O.K. you can sit back and wait for the bar-b-que family to get home + and watch the fireworks or you can move away to the nearest friendly + neighboring country. If you do decide to stay, don't stand too close, + or you may end up a tater tot. + + +Wimp Startler +------------- + + Simple, cheap, safe. Blow up a clear balloon inside of a light fixture + so that it touches the lightbulb. If possible, have it on top of the + bulb because heat rises and will pop the balloon sooner (before the + geek says, "Gee, its kinda not as bright as it used to be." When the + light goes on, the balloon goes off. Nothing great but you won't go + to jail for it. + + +Light Igniter +------------ + + If you smash even a burned out light bulb and twist the ends of the + element together, it makes a beauty of a starter for any fire needed + explosion device. Just tape on the old fuse and leave. + + +Starter Startler +--------------- + + You can take a wire and run it from the coil in your pals car to the + steering wheel (if it's metal) or to the ignition key slot. When quizmo + goes to start his car- buzzzzzzzzzzzzzap! Nothing like smoking fingers! + This one has interesting side effects on pace maker patients. + + +Party Balloom +------------- + + Before your next party where smoking and drinking will occur (I do so + hate cigarette smoke), fill up a few balloms with natural gas from the + stove or bar-b-que. When you pals (or enemies) get loaded and start + popping the ballons, like they always will. Some dork will decide to + pop a few with his stogey. If all goes well, one of them might give him + a little surprise. + + +Auto Annihilator +---------------- + + You owners of pick up trucks are already in possesion of urban assault + vehicles. All you need is some nice size rollable objects, some cord, + and some duct tape. Tape over the latch that hold the tailgate shut. + Tie a cord from the inside of the cab to the tailgate to hold it + closed. Now, put a bowling ball, shopping cart, tire, large diameter + steel pipe, etc. in the bed of the truck. It must be large enough to + roll over the gap between the tailgate and the bed. So now your + cruising along the interstate at 65mph and some prick pisses you off. + Just pull ahead of him, floor it, and release the tailgate cord. + Now look in the rearview mirror. Where is the asshole? Oh, that's him + spinning out of control with a grocery cart stuck in his grill. Or + is that him over there in the ditch along side of the road. No! + wait! that's him speeding up to catch you! No problem. You were smart + enough to have a few more goodies tied to another cord, like a bowling + ball. Let her rip! Wham! Yeah, that's him with the broken steering + rods smashing into the divider. I knew he was back there somewhere. + Try it going up a steep hill or a bridge to take out more happy + motorists. + + +Flare Fun +--------- + + Take the glass off of a light bulb and fill it with the yellow + make from grinding up the inside of a road flare. Tape the glass + back on and screw it back into the socket. Give a new meaning to + the "Red Light" district. + + +Non-Handymans Bomb +------------------ + + Go to the nearest auto parts store and pick up a pack of road flares + and an aerosol can of starter fluid. Take the flare and duct tape it + to the can so that the first inch or so of the flare will burn with + out touching the side of the can. When you wanna blow it up, use the + handy little scratch-n-start piece of the flare and let it blow. + Not too difficult, eh? + + +Fun With Cyano +-------------- + + You call it superglue, we call it fun. Any Cyanoacrilate glue will + do the job. It is the best prankster material ever produced by a + manufacturer. Here are a few ideas to get you started. Glue the door + to the school shut. Glue car doors, car locks, and car trunks. Glue + money to the floor at the mall. On a busy day at the mall, put some on + a coin and roll it infront of some lozers. It won't dry until it hits + their skin because it needs moisture to dry. Spill some on your enemies + pants. Glue the dictionary shut. Glue books to the table at t8e# + library. Glue windsheild wipers down. Glue gaps caps on. The + possibilities are endless. Cyano takes a while to dry on metal + surfaces. When you put a few drops of cyano in baking soda or on saw + dust, it turns to a rock hard substance. Fill the desired spot with + the powder, and apply as much glue as necessary. + + _____________________________________________________________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion IV "More Creative Ideas" \ +| (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | +| "Lead us not into temptation.. Tell us where it is, we'll find it" -TDK | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx5.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx5.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..dc7f217b --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx5.ana @@ -0,0 +1,121 @@ + _____________________________ +| Terrorist Home Companion V |_______________________________________________ +| "The day we make contact" | +| qp Call These qp | +| By: Soft Jock and The Dead Kennedy db ---- ----- db | +| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp | +| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db | +|This file written in remembrance of Bug qp both 3/12 10m BBS/AE/CF qp | +| Byter and Soft Jock (MCI, R.I.P.) db db | +|_____________________________________________________________________________| + + + With World War III knocking on our door, I feel it is every persons +right to be able to protect and defend his or her's investments. With the +Government making it almost impossible for the average person to have a decent +weapon, I guess that only means that you will have to make them yourself. So, +I've come back with a few more ideas, both serious and prank. + +Fire Grenade Launcher +--------------------- + + First, you will need a 12 or 16 gauge shotgun. You must mount two + T=ygs to it and make it like a tripod with the stock being the third + leg. Take a shell and hacksaw off the front part with the shot in + it. Place the modified shell in the chamber. Take a long piece of + circular wood (like a broomstick) and shove it in through the barell. + Make sure it is at least touching the shell (don't push too hard + unless you want a broomstick through your head!). Next, mount a + small rubber platform on the end of the stick. Securely fasten a + molotov cocktail the the platform (coke bottle filled with gas, + oil, detergent, and an oily rag in the top). Light the rag and pull + the trigger. With practice, you can shoot this thing wih amazing + accuracy. + + +Explosive Ideas +--------------- + + Everyone has made a bomb and just lit it and watched it go boom. + there are ways to get more out of your boom. If you take something + like sandbags or bags of cement and lay them on top or on the sides + of your bomb, the result will be much more damaging and will create + a smoke screen (if you use something like cement or flour and not + rocks or sand). + + +Itching Powder +-------------- + + I know this is no Anarchy, but ideas are running low. This, however, + makes a great practical joke! Get some fiberglass insulation (either + by punching a hole in your wall and removing it, or by going to a + construction sight and lifting it). Grind it up good (for large + amounts, I suggest something like a blender). Now just place this + pink powder anywhere you wish. This is better than the stuff you can + buy in the store. I got some asshole in the movies and he itched + all throughout the show. Don't ask me why I had itching powder in + the movies, but it did work. + + +Rain Detination +--------------- + + Here's an easy way to let mother nature help you set off a few bombs + (they must be ELECTRICAL). If it's raining out, place 2 test leads + into a cup (or 2 wires), each on opposite sides, so that they are + touching the bottom of the cup. Next place some metalic substance + (that DOES conduct electricity) in the bottom (not too much! Don't + connect the wires!). Wire up your favorite bomb around this leaving + the only break in the circuit in the bottom of the cup. When it rains + enough, the water will begin to fill cup, mix with the metal, and act + as a bridge for the electricity. If all was set up correctly, your + device should go off. In the event of no rain, just use one of those + Solar Cells (obtainable from Radio Shack) and connect it to a solar + igniter (this must be a FIRE type bomb with a fuse!). Connect the + igniter to the fuse, set the bomb in a shady place (that is soon + to be in the light), and leave. All should go as planned. + + +Whistler Bomb +------------- + + Do you have one of those asshole coaches in your school always + blowing that damn whistle at you? If so, here's an idea that will + shut his ass up for a while. First, make a small batch of your + favorite friction sensitive explosive (see early "Terrorist Home + Companion" files written by me and a few other aRu members). Fill + his whistle up with it (not a whole bunch or he'll notice. Just enough + so it will make a boom he will never forget. Now, go be an asshole on + the field and wait for his to give it a good blow. "Gee coach, how did + you get shrapnel in your face?" + + +Exploding Pipe +-------------- + + So you have that asshole teacher or mean old man on the block who + smokes a (cough, cough) pipe. Or maybe even your favorite weedhead. + Steal the guys pipe (like from his car). If it is a good pipe, you + should be able to pull it into 2 pieces. Clean it out (with a pipe + cleaner, they're cheap). Run a fuse from the bowl back to where the + pipe goes back together. Place a small explosive inside the tube + where the smoke comes through to the mouth and wire it up to the + fuse. Next, replace the burnt tobacco that was in the bowl and put + it back where you got it from. "What's wrong, not getting enough + drag? Maybe you should suck harder. Boom!" + + _____________________________________________________________________________ +/ _________________________________________________________________________ \ +| ! ! | +| | Terrorist Home Companion part V "The day we make contact" | | +| | | | +| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | | +| | | | +| | "Anarchists don't die, they just lose their cars and re-group" | | +| | -Soft Jock | | +| !_________________________________________________________________________! | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terrhbk.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terrhbk.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..b8ae7d80 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terrhbk.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3854 @@ +Name: The Anarchist CookBook +Date: 3/20/90 +Time: 8:28 pm + +The Terrorist's Cookbook +------------------------ + +Written BY: UNKNOWN AUTHOR +HEAVILY EDITED by: Kloey Detect of Five O +Special thanks to WordPerfect Corporation for their spelling +checker.......This file NEEDED IT! + +(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*) +SPECIAL THANX ALSO GOES OUT TO: + +Nitro Glycerine: For providing the files! +Xpax : For being patient while the cop was there! +The Producer : For getting the files to me.... +The Director : For getting the files to me.... +Mr.Camaro : For his BIG EGO!!! +The Magician : For ALL the Bernoulli carts he is gonna send!! + +(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*) + +This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is +the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown +author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be +merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then +spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not +spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell +check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors +which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience +to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little +error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!! + +This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi +.....Wherever you both may be..... + +.PN + + +THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK +------------------------ + + +1.0 INTRODUCTION + + Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is +proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First and +foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities +for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The purpose +of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this +and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social goals. +The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be +carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one all the more +frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this information, +and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques herein SHOULD NOT BE +CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM +ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS MERELY +FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! + +Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has some +idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is +the reason for the existence of this publication. + +.PA + + +1.1 Table of Contents + + +2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS +2.01 Black Powder +2.02 Pyrodex +2.03 Rocket Engine Powder +2.04 Rifle/Shotgun Powder +2.05 Flash Powder +2.06 Ammonium Nitrate + +2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS +2.11 Techniques for Picking Locks + +2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY + +2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS +2.31 Nitric Acid +2.32 Sulfuric Acid +2.33 Ammonium Nitrate + +3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES +3.01 Explosive Theory + +3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES +3.11 Ammonium Triiodide Crystals +3.12 Mercury Fulminate +3.13 Nitroglycerine +3.14 Picrates + +3.2 LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.21 Black Powder +3.22 Nitrocellulose +3.23 Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures +3.24 Perchlorates + +3.3 HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.31 R.D.X. (Cyclonite) +3.32 Ammonium Nitrate +3.33 ANFOS +3.34 T.N.T. +3.35 Potassium Chlorate +3.36 Dynamite +3.37 Nitrostarch Explosives +3.38 Picric Acid +3.39 Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) +3.40 Nitrogen Trichloride +3.41 Lead Azide + +3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" +3.51 Thermit +3.52 Molotov Cocktails +3.53 Chemical Fire Bottle +3.54 Bottled Gas Explosives + +4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES + +4.1 SAFETY + +4.2 IGNITION DEVICES +4.21 Fuse Ignition +4.22 Impact Ignition +4.23 Electrical Ignition +4.24 Electro - Mechanical Ignition +4.241 Mercury Switches +4.242 Tripwire Switches +4.243 Radio Control Detonators + +4.3 DELAYS +4.31 Fuse Delays +4.32 Timer Delays +4.33 Chemical Delays + +4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS +4.41 Paper Containers +4.42 Metal Containers +4.43 Glass Containers +4.44 Plastic Containers + +4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES +4.51 Shaped Charges +4.52 Tube Explosives +4.53 Atomized Particle Explosions +4.54 Lightbulb Bombs +4.55 Book Bombs +4.56 Phone Bombs + +5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS + +5.1 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) +5.11 Bow and Crossbow Ammunition +5.12 Blowgun Ammunition +5.13 Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition + +5.2 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) +5.21 Handgun Ammunition +5.22 Shotguns + +5.3 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) +5.31 .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition +5.32 .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition + +6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS + +6.1 ROCKETS +6.11 Basic Rocket-Bomb +6.12 Long Range Rocket-Bomb +6.13 Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs + +6.2 CANNONS +6.21 Basic Pipe Cannon +6.22 Rocket-Firing Cannon + +7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA +7.1 Smoke Bombs +7.2 Colored Flames +7.3 Tear Gas +7.4 Fireworks +7.41 Firecrackers +7.42 Skyrockets +7.43 Roman Candles + +8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION + +9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS + +10. USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY + +11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + + +2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS + + Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and +a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in +order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something +about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, +is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each +different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder +depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of +powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: +the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. + + +2.01 BLACK POWDER + + Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, +the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely +important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in +a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is +desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along +with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, +the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other +grades and uses are listed below: + + + GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN + ----- ---------- -------------- + F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles + FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles + FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers + + + The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has +more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger +grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of +black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected +by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer +grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be +ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to +absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic +spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would +apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of +strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is +about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of +device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough +powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black +powder since anyone can own black powder firearms in America. + + +2.02 PYRODEX + + Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes +in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound +container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black +powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, +and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will +not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined +to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the +same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried. + + +2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER + + One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is +the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are +composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by +a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube +lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the +grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is +usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally +hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the widest +setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, +the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to +all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder +Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly +powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come +in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are +perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they +can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder. + + +2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER + + Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle +standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be +referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the +action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is +then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When +dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of +black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly +compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder +burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. +Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants +is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any +idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the +U.S. + + +2.05 FLASH POWDER + + Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various +oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated +with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is +sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very +finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The +fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns +very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash", +hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold +in magic shops and theatre supply stores. + + +2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as +a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite +with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is +touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation +will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high +explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of +nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the +'Cold-Paks' or 'Instant Cold', available in most drug stores. The 'Cold Paks' +consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the +ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the +outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in +a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it +tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many +fertilizers. + + +2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS + + The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section +deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. +Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the +labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter +lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and +most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears +a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone +asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking +for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department +other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various +labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There +are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as +placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back +exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before +this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a +lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the +cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never +know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one +plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the +actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know +when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if +none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a +rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another +person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an +odd hour. + + +2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS + + If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's +most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are +unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these +methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. +These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, +but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule +here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several +devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental +tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket- +knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these +tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch +out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding +whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out +from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum +can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the ragged ends of the +can. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a +single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the +strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 +inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, +or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this: + + (1) + _________________________________________________________ v +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | + ^ + + Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of +aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped +device that looks like this: + + + __________________________________________ + /|________________________________________| + | | + | | L-shaped + | | + | | + | | + |_| + + + + _____________________________ + /|___________________________| + | | + | | J-shaped + | | + | |_________ + \|_______| + + + + _____________________ + /|___________________| + | | + | | + | | U-shaped + | | + | | + | | + | |____________________ + \|___________________| + + + All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and +pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between +the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made +properly. + + +2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY + + Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, +and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous +compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some +money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. + + +Chemical Used In Available at +-------- ------- ------------ + +_____________________________________________________________________________ +alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores + solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +ammonia + CLEAR household supermarkets, + ammonia 7 - Eleven +_____________________________________________________________________________ +ammonium instant-cold drug stores, +nitrate paks, fertilizers medical supply stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +nitrous oxide pressurizing party supply stores + drinks and whip cream +_____________________________________________________________________________ +magnesium firestarters surplus stores, + camping stores +____________________________________________________________________________ +lecithin vitamin? pharmacies, drug + stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket, + drug store +_____________________________________________________________________________ +mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets, + hardware stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sulfuric acid uncharged car automotive stores + batteries +_____________________________________________________________________________ +glycerine ? pharmacies, drug + stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sulfur gardening gardening store, + hardware stores? +_____________________________________________________________________________ +charcoal charcoal grills, supermarkets + gardening gardening stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store +_____________________________________________________________________________ +cellulose first aid drug stores, +(cotton) medical supply stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +strontium nitrate road flares surplus stores, + auto stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus stores, +(kerosene) camping stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +bottled gas propane stoves surplus stores, + camping stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +potassium permanganate water purification purification plants +_____________________________________________________________________________ +hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus stores +methenamine (camping) (camping stores?) +_____________________________________________________________________________ +nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops + plates photography stores? +_____________________________________________________________________________ +iodine & first aid drug stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores + for cutting torches +_____________________________________________________________________________ + +notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a + solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol + must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury + fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + + + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The + pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear + ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. + + @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They + may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in + mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores. + Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the + thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury + vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, + it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it + outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will ++ help prevent this. + + ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually + stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later + section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. + + & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline + form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. + To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's + prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the + means that terrorists result to. + + +2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS + + +2.31 NITRIC ACID + + There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for +explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once +again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! + +Materials: Equipment +---------- --------- + +sodium nitrate adjustable heat source + or + +potassium nitrate retort +distilled water ice bath +concentrated stirring rod +sulfuric acid + collecting flask with stopper + + +1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. + +2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium +nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, +carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. + +3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the + collecting flask in the ice bath. + +4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid + begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric + acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, + or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too + strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This + can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may + explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get + away from it. + + + Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, +simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur +and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to +dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter +the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the +liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder +are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to +evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. + + +2.32 SULFURIC ACID + + Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or +industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. +A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car +battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be +pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, +either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can +also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster +than clean motor oil. + + +2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order +explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large +flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask +and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have +stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place +until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. +There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must +be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from +the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY +gently to drive off the remaining water. + + +3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES + + Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE +ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS +TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT +OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. + + + These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual +could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually +scaled-down industrial procedures. + + +3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY + + An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, +undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that +is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down +into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece +of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are +displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater +than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the +mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order +explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which +may do both. + + High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high +order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes +through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart +the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately +equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high +explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks +apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses. +T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives. + + Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. +when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and +gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under +pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder, +which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they +are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn +much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions. +Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order +explosives. + + Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as +mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are +usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low +explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they +are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined, +they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. +Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, +a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently +used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by +the detonation of its primer. + + +3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES + + Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed +here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium +triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no +light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even +the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. + + +3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS + + Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals +that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they +are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such +crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks +across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps +and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or +heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine +gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that +the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine +in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It +leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. +Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the +ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on +the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously +washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, +a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw +several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly +injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that +not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide +crystals could be produced in the following manner: + + Materials Equipment + _________ _________ + + iodine crystals funnel and filter paper + paper towels + clear ammonia + (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars + for the suicidal) + + +1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars + must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. + +2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. + +3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. + The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic + chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle + is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved + side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone + into the funnel. + +4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the + solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. + +5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar + to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. + +6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, + and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that + they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could + well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about + eight chunks. + +7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of + duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape + together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. + Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and + store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of + about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be + thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which + gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One + possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight + containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them + where they will be stepped on or crushed. + + +3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE + + Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating +compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it +of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of +the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would +probably use the following procedure: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + _________ _________ + + mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod + concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2) + acid (35 ml) adjustable heat + ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source + distilled water blue litmus paper + funnel and filter paper + + + +1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, + using the glass rod. + +2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the + solution turns green and boils. + +3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully + add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes + should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. + +4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that + the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the + distilled water to the solution. + +5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid + solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive + and toxic. + +6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess + acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are + neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the + wet crystals + +7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from + any explosive or flammable material. + + + This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury +cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of +ethanol to every one volume of mercury. + + +3.13 NITROGLYCERINE + + Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not +the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. +Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to +make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the +all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is +converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts +to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: + + MATERIAL EQUIPMENT + ________ _________ + + distilled water eye-dropper + table salt 100 ml beaker + sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) + concentrated nitric ice bath container + acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) + concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer + acid (39 ml) + glycerine blue litmus paper + + +1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. + +2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about + a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate + dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some + remains undissolved. + +3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and + adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall + temperature. + +4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated + nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill + into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker + when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath + container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 + degrees centigrade or less. + +5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the + 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids + together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good + idea to start another ice bath to do this. + +6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop + at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed + acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 + DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN + LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the + temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a + thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to + make any explosive in small quantities. + +7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, + adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution + in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the + nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the + concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. + +8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 + degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine + and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The + nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid + solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the + acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine. + +9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it + into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate + much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less + likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine + with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if + necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. + +10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean + container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is + far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. + Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored + in a secure cool place. + + +3.14 PICRATES + + Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or +trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they +are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with +metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the +water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, +and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range +molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, +and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive. + + +3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in stores +and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise gun store +owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such +an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order +explosives. + + +3.21 BLACK POWDER + + First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first +used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, +but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is +converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine +burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by +static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be +made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could +manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + _________ _________ + + potassium clay grinding bowl + nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder + + or or + + sodium wooden salad bowl + nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon + sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) + charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) + distilled water coffee pot or heat source + + +1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl + and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or + sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. + +2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a + separate plastic bag. + +3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and + add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. + +4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium + nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no + more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. + +5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight + is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it + is hot enough to evaporate the water. + +6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. + Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black + powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static + electricity. + + +3.22 NITROCELLULOSE + + Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more +stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It +also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. +Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following +procedure: + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + _________ _________ + + cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers + concentrated funnel and filter paper + nitric acid + blue litmus paper + concentrated + sulfuric acid + distilled water + + +1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this + 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid. + +2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 + minutes. + +3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water + to wash it in. + +4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. + +5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to + be dried and stored. + + +3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES + + There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can +be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective +and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working +fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each +compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be +given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: + + +oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/ + + impact sensitive + + rather unstable +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow + charcoal 15% burning; + unstable +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely + magnesium or unstable! + aluminum dust 25% +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable + aluminum dust 33% +________________________________________________________________________________ + sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable + sulfur 5% burn rate +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before + ignition depends + WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable + magnesium or + aluminum dust 20% +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is + sulfur 10% black powder! +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot + or + magnesium 40% +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make + sesquisulfide 25% strike-anywhere + matches +________________________________________________________________________________ + ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for + + small amount of space shuttle + iron oxide +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder + sulfur 20% +________________________________________________________________________________ + barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate +potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder +________________________________________________________________________________ + barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate + aluminum dust 5% flash powder +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly + magnesium or unstable + aluminum dust 25% +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very +calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% unstable! + impact sensitive +_____________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; + aluminum or ignites if + magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! +________________________________________________________________________________ + potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable + sulfur 10% +________________________________________________________________________________ + + +NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium + perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. + + The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns +AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of +burning. + + As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures +that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), +different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of +the mixture. + + +3.24 PERCHLORATES + + As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid +will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or +sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can +be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium +perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or +potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated +with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react +explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium +hydroxide are ideal. + +3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + High order explosives can be made in the home without too much +difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high +explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is +made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) +molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a +material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the +nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in +a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based +explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, +several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. + + +3.31 R.D.X. + + R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with +plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is +because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to +detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too +severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, +but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the +surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the +home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium +nitrate. + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + _________ _________ + + hexamine 500 ml beaker + + or + + methenamine glass stirring rod + fuel tablets (50 g) + funnel and filter paper + concentrated + nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container + (plastic bucket) + distilled water + centigrade thermometer + table salt + blue litmus paper + ice + ammonium nitrate + + +1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully + pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. + +2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of + the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it + must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result. + Stir the mixture. + +3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice + and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium + nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is + put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below + zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes + +4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, + and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and + dispose of the corrosive liquid. + +5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter + the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 + until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable + and safe. + +6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely + using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. + +7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% + mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic + bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive. + +8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. + it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. + +9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should + be possible to desensitize the R.D.X., and increase its power, since ammonium + nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could + also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X. + +10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a + density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. + + +3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap- +hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, +since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive +to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a +drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium +nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather +powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The +diagram below will explain. + + _________________________________________ + | | | + ________| | | + | | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate | + |primer |booster| | + |_______| | | + | | | + |_______|_______________________________| + + + The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending +a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. + + +3.33 ANFOS + + ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO +solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick +up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate +when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) +ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium +nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large +shockwave to set it off. + + +3.34 T.N.T. + + T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high +explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known +high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is +the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known. +In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is designed +to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product. A +terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one-step method. +The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming) +sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming) +nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it is +filtered. + + +3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE + + Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be +obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of +vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the +material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, +however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making +such an explosive is outlined below: + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + _________ _________ + + potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag + (9 parts, by volume) + petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl + (vaseline) or + (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon + +1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, + until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is + powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. + +2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the + plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. + put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. + +3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium + chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, + add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. + +4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to + greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, + is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. + + +3.36 DYNAMITE + + The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. +Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was +made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided +individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) +would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various +materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large +weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate +could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase +the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. + + +3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES + + Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All +that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric +and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of +concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold +water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. +Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are +more readily detonated. + + +3.38 PICRIC ACID + + Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military +explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less +sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple +to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric +acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab +manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its +tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as +potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such +as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably +use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + _________ _________ + + phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask + + concentrated adjustable heat source + sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) + 1000 ml beaker + + concentrated nitric or other container + acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in + + distilled water filter paper + and funnel + + glass stirring rod + + +1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 + ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. + +2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and + bring the water to a gentle boil. + +3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling + water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty + minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for + about five minutes. + +4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to + cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, + steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice + bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the + mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When + the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. + +5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap + water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat + it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. + +6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice + bath until it is cold. + +7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution + through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it + in a safe place, since it is corrosive. + +8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the + filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. + +9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. + +10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will + react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode + spontaneously. + + +3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE + + + Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. +It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that +required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since +it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal +containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia. +All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and +dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in +excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should +be ammonium picrate. + + +3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE + + + Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow +liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or +when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to +produce. + +1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. + Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it + remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. + +2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric + acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass + pipe. + +3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the + beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers + together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow + droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down + to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. + + Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate + solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires + timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. + + The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently + heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes + from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating + flask in another flask that contains water. + +4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, + since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. + + +3.41 LEAD AZIDE + + Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for +other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive +explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it +is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is +simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. + + By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate +beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers +together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate +solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the +beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in +hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. + + If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put +lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. + + +3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" + + The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can +be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented +here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. + + +3.51 THERMIT + + Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous +amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react +nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely +powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from +the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a +combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by +an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited, +it is one of the most effective firestarters around. + + + MATERIALS + _________ + + powdered aluminum (10 g) + + powdered iron oxide (10 g) + + +1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply + mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as + possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and + be made in greater or lesser amounts. + +2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of + potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid + on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The + other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by + using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture + can be ignited. + + +3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS + + First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now +exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and +can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such +as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, +turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass +bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable +liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid +in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth +around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to +light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth +does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle +will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame. +Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more +volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture +such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, +and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this +must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown + + +3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE + + The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather +than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best +a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very +hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the +container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the +paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the +acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance +of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if +there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + _________ _________ + + potassium chlorate glass bottle + (2 teaspoons) (12 oz.) + + sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, + with plastic inside + + concentrated cooking pan with raised + sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges + + gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels + glass or plastic cup + and spoon + + +1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure + that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the + acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until + a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. + +2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. + +3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. + Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on + the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside + to dry. + +4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of + sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, + or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. + +5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold + the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium + chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to + dry. + +6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing + the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the + bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle + in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. + +7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct + liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution + on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, + simply throw it at any hard surface. + +8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH + COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, + CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. + +9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, + and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should + immediately burst into a white flame. + + +3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES + + Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane +stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To +make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be +to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other +gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and +on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to +the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas +would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large +fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container +often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By +using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition +are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the +canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would +probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, +since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the +gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, +hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely. + + +4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES + + Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to +apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism, +to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER +IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! + + The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would +be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had +to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would +also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine where +the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see if the +device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or moved. +Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive device. +These are some of the topics covered in the next section. + + +4.1 SAFETY + + There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak +in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. + + +4.2 IGNITION DEVICES + + There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic +'light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run' approach, and there are sensitive +mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation +systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more +appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical +detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device +with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide. + + +4.21 FUSE IGNITION + + The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite +type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in +a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is +extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is +available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for +a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because +of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. + + Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses +fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be +acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not +just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does +not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. +One such method is described below: + + MATERIALS + _________ + + strike-on-cover type matches + + electrical tape or duct tape + + waterproof fuse + + +1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a + 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the + start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when + the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and + you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown + below: + + Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time + of combustion is 20 seconds. + + 20 seconds + __________ = 2.5 seconds per inch. + 8 inches + + If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired + time by the number of seconds per inch: + + 10 seconds + ___________________ = 4 inches + 2.5 seconds / inch + + +NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, + AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA + INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! + +2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is + to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and + cut it off. + +3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not + pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard + base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one + to make a second igniter. + +4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches + touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not + to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling + on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move. + +5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making + sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces + the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. + Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave + enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. + +.PA + + ______________________ + \ / + \ / ------ match book cover + \ / + | M|f|M ---|------- match head + | A|u|A | + | T|s|T | + | C|e|C | + | tapeH|f|Htape | + | |u| | + |##### |s| #####|-------- striking paper + |##### |e| #####| + \ |f| / + \ |u| / + \ |s| / + \ |e| / + |ta|f|pe| + |ta|u|pe| + |s| + |e| + |f| + |u| + |s| + |e| + + The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. + The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the + matcheads when the match book is pulled. + +6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the + striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. + In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the + burning match heads. + + +4.22 IMPACT IGNITION + + Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous +terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it +must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being +transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a +removable impact initiator. + + The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory +made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such +primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such +a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples +are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a +package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes +all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the +cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: + + ________________ + | | + v | + | | | + ________ | |^^^^^^^^| | + |__________| | + | | | + no. 11 |_________| | + percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing + cap here | | | nipple onto bomb + | |__________| | + |_______| | + | |^^^^^^^^| | + |_| | + ^ | + | | + |________________| + + + When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into +whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed +into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed +on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount +before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The +only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must +strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small +parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, +should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with +mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it +strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person +carrying the bomb is bumped hard. + + +4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION + + Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and +most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition +work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools +of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", +comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get +hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device +will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less +than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or +if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters +are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction +also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost +about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two +wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, +but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run +through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs +can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium +chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black +powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order +explosive. + + +4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION + + Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of +mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of +switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person +who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it +explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed + + +4.241 Mercury Switches + + Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal +conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room +temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two +electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty +habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to +explain a mercury switch. + + ______________ + A / \ B + _____wire +______/__+ - \ + \ ( Hg ) | / + \ _(_Hg_)__|____/ + | + | + wire - + | + | + | + + When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both +contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in +its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can +touch both contacts in the horizontal position. + + B + + If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only + touch the + contact on the A side. A + +Current, then could not flow, since the mercury does not reach both contacts +when the switch is in the verticle position. + + This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in +the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door +would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. +This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to +touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the +igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it +slammed in your face by an explosion. + + +4.242 Tripwire Switches + + A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly +invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and +by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. +If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a +tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of +a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, +and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can +be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the +contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the +tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to +flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which +would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the contacts +to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to explode. + + __________________________________ + \_foil___________________________/ + (0) --------------------------spring + insert strip of --- _foil_____\_____________________ + wood with trip- /___________\____________________\ + wire between foil + contacts + + +Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since +the spring also conducts electricity. + + +4.243 Radio Control Detonators + + In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled +detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be +several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, +in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators +is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that +a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio +control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to +devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store +or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, +all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the +motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the +elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the +squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The +device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully +charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part +that used to move parts before the device became a detonator). + + +4.3 DELAYS + + A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is +set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would +cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with +the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to +be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it +does. + + +4.31 FUSE DELAYS + + It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for +ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average +cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, +the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker +than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to +go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in +a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a +fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen +to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often +test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit, +and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it +is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a cigarette +with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the +hole formed. + + +.PA + + |=| + | | ---------- filter + | | + |_| + | | + |o| ---------- hole for fuse + cigarette ----| | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + |_| ---------- light this end + + + A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet +of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with +powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a +fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused +with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with +powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of +charcoal briquettes can be used to delay a fuse by merely lining up a few bricks +of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first +brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply +store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse about +the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible. +Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By +dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling +water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton +string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it +must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the +slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or +gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning +fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow fuse can +be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring +it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted +up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry. + + +4.32 TIMER DELAYS + + Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who +wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location +and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place +if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. +By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, +and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be +made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than +an hour is desired. + + + ___________________________________ to igniter from igniter + | | + | 12 | ^ : + | 11 1 | : : + | | : : + | 10 2 | : v + | .................|......: : + | : | : + | 9 o 3 | : + | | | : + | | | : + | 8 | 4 | : + | V ..........|...... : + | 7 5 | : : + | 6 | :.........+ - + |_________________________________|__|_____|____ + | | + | battery | + o -contacts | | + ..... -wire | | + |___________| + + This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of the +clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit, +allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib. + + The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set + for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in +an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing +the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or +igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize +this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into. +All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, +connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic +watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the +watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer +could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would +be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from +the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib +would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that +would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or +electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would +not have to be stepped up. + + +4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS + + Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in +some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, +and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat +through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum +foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be +open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is +forming does not break the container. + + | | + | | + | | + |____________| + | | + |sulfuric | + | | + ||acid | | + || | |---------- aluminum foil + ||_________| | (several thicknesses) + |____________| + + + The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured +there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used +to ignite an explosive device in several ways. + + + 1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that + eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed + underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, + a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the + wires are immersed in the acid. + + 2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If + the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, + the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be + used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter + for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 + ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for + the rest of the thermit. + + 3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. + + +4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS + + This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to +a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which +are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. + + +4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS + + Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was +first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very +simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses +for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers +and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it +together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and +dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of +Mexican design. It is called a "paloma", meaning "dove". The process of their +manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet +of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so +that it looks like this: + + _______________________________________________________ + | |\ + | | \ + | | \ + |_____________________________________________________|___\ + + +and then fold it again so that it looks like this: + + ______________________________________________________ + | /| + | / | + | / | + |________________________________________________/___| + + + A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex, +flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel- +oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then +inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill +out any of the explosive. When the paloma is finished, it should be taped +together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container, +and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished +polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one +shown below: + + ^ + / \ ----- securely tape all corners + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \____________________________ + /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse + + +4.42 METAL CONTAINERS + + The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained +explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match +heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- +tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills +the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause +enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the +unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the +less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would +buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in +one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder +will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long +inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly, +possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then +pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take a +large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the +powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil +or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, he +would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help +prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe +cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder, +causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is presented in +fig. 2. + + _________ _______________ __________ + | vvvvvv| ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ |vvvvvv | + | | |___________________________| | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | ___________________________ | | + | | | | | | + | |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^ | + |_______| |________| + + + fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps. + +.PA + + ________ ________ + | _____|________________________________|_____ | + | |__________________________________________| | + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| + | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- + | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | fuse + | |__________________________________________| | + | |__________________________________________| | + |______| |______| + + endcap pipe endcap + w/ hole + + + fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. + + + This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, +he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a +piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable +position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding +it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper +pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb +out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. +First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure +not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded +over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be +drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. +Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack +it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other +end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this +slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which +could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: + + ________ + _______________________________________________/ | + | | + | o | + |______________________________________________ | + \_______| + + + fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) + +.PA + + ______ + ____________________________________________/ | | + | | | + | o | | + |_______________________________________________| | + \__|__| + + + fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) + + ____________ fuse hole + | + v + ________________________________________ ___ ______ + | \ |____ | + | \____| | + | ______| + | / + |___________________________________________/ + + + fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) + + _________________ fuse + / + | + ________ ______________________________|___ _______ + | ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - - -| - \ |____ | + | |_____/tissue | - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| | + |________ paper | - - - low order explosive - _______| + \ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - / + \_____________________________________/ + + + fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive + (side view) + + + A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for +a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming +to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge +with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the +CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel- +oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called +"crater makers". + + A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary +device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so +that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The +fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the +thermit. + + The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for +low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the +latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller +low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order +explosive would probably be used. It would look something like: + + _______________________ fuse + | + | + | + _________ | _________ + | ____|__________________________|___________|____ | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | + | | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | | + | | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | | + | | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | | + | | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | | + | | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | |______________________________________________| | + |_______| |_______| + + + If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, +then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, +which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. + + +4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS + + Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there +are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively +easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the +not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would +probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of +a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he +still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of +his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... + + Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by +a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal +detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill +the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly +in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. + +.PA + ________________________ fuse + | + | + | + _____|_____ + | ___|___ | + | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; + | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap + | > | < | + | | | + | | + | | + | | screw cap on bottle + | | + | | + V V + _________ + < > + < > + < > + / \ + / \ + / \ + | | fill bottle with low-order explosive + | | + | | + | | + | | + |____________| + + + Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, +since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive +that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger +than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for +high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand +the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was +able to detonate. + + +4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS + + Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since +they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping +can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones +used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with +plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not +detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by +heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be +glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used as +an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a drying +agent works best in this type of device. + + + || || + || || + ||\_____________/|| + || || + || epoxy || + ||_______________|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||** explosive **|| + ||***************|| + ||***********----------------------- fuse + ||***************|| + ||_______________|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + || || + || epoxy || + || _____________ || + ||/ \|| + || || + || || + + + One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the +device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue +paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe +works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an +inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used +int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. + + +4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES + + The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person +who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this +information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. Advanced +uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount +of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve high- +order explosives. + + +4.51 SHAPED CHARGES + + A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs +the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be +used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds +of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order +explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL +EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! + +.PA + + An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + + + wire ________ _______ - wire + | | + | | + | | + _ __________|____________|____________ + ^ | ________|____________|__________ | + | | | | | | | + | | | \ igniter / | | + | | | \______/ | | + | | | priming charge | | + | | | (mercury fulminate) | | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | / \ | | + 8 inches high | | / \ | | + | | / high \ | | + | | | / explosive \ | | + | | | / charge \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \ | | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | ----- 1/2 inch thick + | | | / \ | | steel pipe + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \ | | + | hole for | | | | hole for + | screw | | | | screw + | | | | | + V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ + |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| + + + |<------- 8 inches -------->| + + If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would +direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening +of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the +explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device +such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful +electromagnet. + + +4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES + + A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that +shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with +a sensitive high explosive such as R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive +container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced; +a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of +explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole. +The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever +it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like +this: + + || || + || || + ||\____/|| + || epoxy|| + ||______|| + || || + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||______|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || RDX || + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || ____ || + || | s| || + || | q| || + || | u| || + || | i| || + || | b| || + || | b| || + || |__| || + ||__||__|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||__||__|| + || || || + || epoxy|| + || || || + || _||_ || + ||/ || \|| + || || || + || || || + ||_______ + wire ______________ + | + |________ - wire ______________ + + + When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap +it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube +bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, +and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. + + +4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS + + If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small +particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion +similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The +tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, +pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and +ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push +the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle +explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly +flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, +or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be +extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon +jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge +was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this +occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely +occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish +this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T., or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead +of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high +explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion +does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material. + + +4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS + + An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the +light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead +light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes +with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the +lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a +lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must +be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue +gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other +bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or +oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked +in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case, +once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the +bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the +glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base +with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient +to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the +socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be +done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been +used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the +room for a bomb without first turning on the light. + + +4.55 BOOK BOMBS + + Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where +perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched +by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend +to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is +called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of +a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of +the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law +books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual +makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for +the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a +book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping +saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring +an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling +the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will +hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution +has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, +the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each +page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of +the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. +Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice +works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must +be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. +Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a +rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell +of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this: + + + ________________________ + | ____________________ | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |__________________| | + |______________________| + + (book covers omitted) + + + This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. +After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled +variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever +timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling +or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has +been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its +destination. + + +4.56 PHONE BOMBS + + The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past +to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the +person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high +explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the +current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the +high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is +acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece +cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. +Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver, +and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1. +Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whom +the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and +remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that +the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the +phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable +that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes... + + +5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS + + Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social +deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over +individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to +kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from crossbows +to shotguns. + + +5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS + + For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive +that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This +means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. + + +5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION + + Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is +extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter +to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum +piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire +segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates +upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tube +of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and +epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high- +order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece +of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making +sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and +secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical +or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting +goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: + + _____ + | | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap + ||*|| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| ----------- aluminum piping + |*| + |e| + |x| + |p| + |l| + |o| + |s| + |i| + |v| + |e| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + /|_|\ + / |t| \ + | |p| | + | |_| | + | |e| | -------- fins + | |p| | + | |y| | + |_|_|_| + |_| + + + tp: tissue paper + + epy: epoxy + + + When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap +explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive. + + +5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS + + The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. +A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive +or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile +is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use +of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. +Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the +capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional +high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, +if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would +be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end +containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive +struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch +long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this: + + + ____________________ + /mercury | \----------------------- + (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels + \________|___________/----------------------- + + +5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS + + A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter +marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well +be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the +relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the +wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. +A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device +by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe +could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would +be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse +was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it +reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that +are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for +wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of +their light weight. + +.PA + + +5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS + + When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and +rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with +a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be +difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There +is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition +is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the +slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For +this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. + + +.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS + + If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her +handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive +explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, +and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole +in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of +an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed +in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed +exploding bullet is shown below. + + + _o_ ------------ drop of wax + /|*|\ + | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive + | |_| | + |_____| + + + This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. + + +5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS + + Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create +some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun +shell is opened at the top, and the shot is removed, the shell can be re-closed. +Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to +the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of +shotgun-launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the +shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches +away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide +what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a +chemical fire bottle (see sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb +(sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to +the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or +incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device +has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile +is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun +projectile is shown below. + + ____ + || | + || | + || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel + || | + ||__| + || | + || |------- fuse + || | + || + || + || + || --------- dowel + || + || + || + || + || + || --------- insert this end into shotgun + + + +5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS + + This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for +compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, +and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids +toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. + + + +5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS + + + A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle +or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber +of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle +velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber +projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a +caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use +primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun +stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers +detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if +they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit +in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they +will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is +attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the +tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A +diagram of such a projectile appears below. + + _____ primers _______ + | | + | | + | | + V V + ______ ______ + | ________________________ |------------------- + | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or + | ________________________ |------------------- cotton + |_____ _____|------------------- + ^ + | + | + |_______ antenna tubing + + The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. +The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. +Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to +insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile +should be about 3/4 of an inch long. + + + +5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS + + A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at +close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be +adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in +section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. +Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have +to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since +there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, +but anything larger will do nicely. + + +6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS + + Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. +Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are +difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. +Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things. +A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear. + + +6.1 ROCKETS + + Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years +before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. +They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, +expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used +constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. +Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they +can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space +age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of +Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their +most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; +enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. +Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which +develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, +and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have +three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them. + + + __________________________________________________________ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing + \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| + _______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| + / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| + /________|______________________|_______|________|_|_______ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + casing + + + The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled +"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a +propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, +rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. +After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is +ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that +has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, +white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen +when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it +ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely +powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The +explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. +It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... + + Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine +labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an +indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" +engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The +number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. +the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust +period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a +3 second delay. + + +NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum + dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. + The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. + + +6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB + + A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered +to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device +would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa +wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a +basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 +cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of +the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge +of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb +should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. + + + ____________ rocket engine + | _________ crater maker + | | + | | + V | + _________________________________ V + |_______________________________| ______________________ + \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ + \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ + __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) + / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / + /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ + |_______________________________| + + thrust> - - - - - - + smoke> *** + ejection charge> :::: + + + Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket +engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge +Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such as +a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. + + Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure +that the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like this: + + + |\ + | \ + | \ + | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine + | \ + | \ + | \ + | | + | | + | | + leading edge | | + -------> | | + | | + | | trailing edge + | | <-------- + | | + | | + | | + | | + \_____/ + + + The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so +that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two +inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it +from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of +a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins +of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. + + | + | + | + fin | <------ fin + | | | + | | | + | __|__ | + V / \ V + ---------------| |--------------- + \_____/ + |o <----------- segment of plastic straw + | + | + | <------ fin + | + | + | + + By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a +launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is +simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic +straw. The rocket should slide easily along the coathanger. + + ____ + / \ + | | + cut here _____ | + | | + | | + | / \ + V / \ + _________________/ \________________ + / \ + / \ + /____________________________________________\ + ^ + | + | + and here ______| + + + Bend wire to this shape: + + _______ insert into straw + | + | + | + V + ____________________________________________ + \ + \ + \ + \ + \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle + | + | + | + | + | + | <---------- put this end in ground + | + + +.PA + + +6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB + + Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model +rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi- +stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an +engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge +explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" +engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning +particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. +This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of +weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as +travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat +differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly +straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is +accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the +center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the +rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears below: + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker + | | + | | + |___| + | | + | | + | | + | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine + /| 6 |\ + / | | | \ + / | 5 | \ + / |___| \ ---- fin + / /| |\ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | C | \ \ + | / | 6 | \ | + | / | | | \ | + | / | 0 | \ | + |/ |___| \| + | / \ | + \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin + | + | + | + | + C6-0 rocket engine + + The fuse is put in the bottom engine. + + + Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it +a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the +fin area gets larger. + + +6.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS + + "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is +simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be +done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers +and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a +rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive +devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like this: + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + |___| + ___| |___ + | | | | + | | T | | + / \ | U | / \ + / \| B |/ \ + | || E || | + | C || || C | + | M || || M | + | ||___|| | + \___/| E |\___/ + | N | + /| G |\ + / | I | \ + / | N | \ + / | E | \ + / |___|\ + / fin/ | \ fin\ + | / | \ | + \__/ | \__/ + ^ + |____ fin + + + The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape. +the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. +The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder. +Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted +in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that +its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom +engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the +coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it. + + +6.2 CANNON + + The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the +11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, +loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, +otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the +barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, +if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience. + + +6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON + + A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The +only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. +This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or +aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to +withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If +one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be +made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe +MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth +on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the +pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. +A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. +Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of +grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad +of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon +securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is +lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by +pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: + + __________________ fuse hole + | + | + | + v + __________ ______________________________________________________ + | |________ _____________________________________________________| + |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge + | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ + |_|______________________________________________________________| + + + An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 +cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and +construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the +cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for +a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue +paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, +and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in +about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this: + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + | | + | | + |\ /| + | | | ---- tape + |_|_| + | ------ fuse + + +6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON + + A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the +only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further +than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial +inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one +that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal +rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this: + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + | | + | | + |___| + | E | + | N | + | G | + | I | + | N | + | E | + |___| + + + the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not +be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before +the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. +Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon +will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high +velocity. + + +7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA + + There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of +violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large +military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines. +Finally, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display +rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the +ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which +consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running through +it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive high +explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the +sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large +crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. + + +7.1 SMOKE BOMBS + + One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in +many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, +or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to +produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a +building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the +military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, +such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. +Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. + + Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such +as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn +well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but +not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, +produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount +of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke +ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many +chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and +sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer +mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base +powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful +smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and +contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse +enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an +explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt +and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to +prevent an explosion. + + +7.2 COLORED FLAMES + + Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. +by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the +ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that +produce the different colors of flames appear below. + + +COLOR MATERIAL USED IN +_____ ________ _______ +_______________________________________________________________________________ +red strontium road flares, + salts red sparklers + (strontium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +green barium salts green sparklers + (barium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +yellow sodium salts gold sparklers + (sodium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +blue powdered copper blue sparklers, + old pennies +_______________________________________________________________________________ +white powdered magnesium firestarters, + or aluminum aluminum foil +_______________________________________________________________________________ +purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, + treating sewage +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + +7.3 TEAR GAS + + A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use +it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated +to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize +its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. + + EQUIPMENT + _________ + + 1. ring stands (2) + 2. alcohol burner + 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml + 4. clamps (2) + 5. rubber stopper + 6. glass tubing + 7. clamp holder + 8. condenser + 9. rubber tubing + 10. collecting flask + 11. air trap + 12. beaker, 300 ml + + + MATERIALS + _________ + + 10 gms glycerine + + 2 gms sodium bisulfate + + distilled water + + +1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms + of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. + +2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. + +3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. + +4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown + residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. Remove the + heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive. + +5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting + flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place. + + +7.4 FIREWORKS + + While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, +they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several +basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, profit, +or nasty uses. + + +7.41 FIRECRACKERS + + A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. +The instructions are below: + + 1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. + "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. + + 2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill + it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter + of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as + specified on the package. + + 3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and + insert a desired length of fuse. + + 4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash + powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, + nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures + will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top. + + 5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper + and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space + for more epoxy. + + 6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow + it to dry. + + 7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use + flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for + colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it + to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the + sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the + device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color + as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will + be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, + or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. + + Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode + with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, + I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material + inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely + powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this + material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER + MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND + EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of + 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler + material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil + I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight + outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't + react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount + of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the + firecracker. + + 8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, + professional to semi-professional displays can be produced. + + +7.42 SKYROCKETS + + An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from +model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. + + 1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering + that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) + + 2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly + fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper + and glue. + + 3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that + the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the + tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of + flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch. + + 4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, + various types of effects can be produced. + + 5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick + in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or + M.R.V.'s can be produced. + + 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with + the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. + + +7.43 ROMAN CANDLES + + Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult +to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are +well worth the trouble. + + 1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it + with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must + be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into + about 10 inch lengths. + + 2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy + and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. + + 3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, + and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that + the fuse fits tightly. + + 4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the + tube. + + 5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired + color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and + a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of + 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After + mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing + continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should + be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. + Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow + the ball to dry. + + 6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down + fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack + it gently against the ball with a pencil. + + 7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed + in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, + a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of + about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly + larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. + + 8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. + + 9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, + producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. + + +8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION + + Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained + through a public or university library. There are also many publications that +are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to +make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary +magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of +places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes +fireworks companies and the like. + + +COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS +________________________ __________________ + + +FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, +P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING +MURFREESBORO, TN +37133 + _______________________________________________________________________________ + +UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE +BOX 1378-SN +HERMISTON, OREGON +97838 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH +SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES +DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA +18328 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, +125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES +P.O. BOX 226 +PORT HURON, MICHIGAN +48060 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS +P.O. BOX 22927 +ROCHESTER, NEW YORK +14692 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, +316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES +RENO, NEVADA +89509 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS +BOX 1451 +JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN +53547 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS +P.O. BOX 3504 +STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT +06095 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS +BOX 581 +EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA +19028 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS +4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD +RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN +49878 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + +WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS +P.O. BOX 11 {GOOD PRICES!} +ROCHESTER, INDIANNA +46975 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + +BOOKS +_____ + +THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK + +THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL + +MILITARY EXPLOSIVES + +FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS + + +9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS + + In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she +wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the +chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order +of priority would probably resemble the following: + + LIQUIDS SOLIDS + _______ ______ + + ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate + ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate + ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) + ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate + ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium + ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum + ____ Potassium Permanganate + ____ Sulfur + ____ Mercury + ____ Potassium Nitrate + ____ Potassium Hydroxide + ____ Phosphorus + ____ Sodium Azide + ____ Lead Acetate + ____ Barium Nitrate + + +10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY + + In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic +ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge +of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following +reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school +chemistry book. + + +1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide + K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O + 4 4 2 + +2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide + " + HNO ----> KNO + " + 3 3 + +3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " + 3 4 3 4 + +4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " + 3 3 3 3 + +5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium + +A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H + 3 2 + +B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al + 3 2 + + The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container +which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and +sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high +explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess. + + +11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently attending +a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering. He was +raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school education +there. He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about eight years +of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was slightly +more powerful than a large firecracker. He continued to produce explosive +devices for several years. He also became interested in model rocketry, and has +built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets. While in high +school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became the +head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at age 18, he produced +his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an associate's +back yard. He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive ammunition, +and other pyrotechnic devices. While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro- +Technologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his hand; he +did not make the device. The author learned, however, and then decided to +reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive device, he +chooses to abstain from their production. An occasional rocket that produces +effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen in the +midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his favorite day +of the year. + + + Pax et Discordia, + + + the Author + + +HERE ENDS THE FIRST PUBLICATION OF THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK. THIS IS THE ONLY +AUTHORIZED PUBLICATION, AND THE SOLE PRODUCTION RIGHTS BELONG TO CHAOS +INDUSTRIES AND GUNZENBOMZ PYRO-TECHNOLOGIES. + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.1 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.1 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..0f8ec83a --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.1 @@ -0,0 +1,129 @@ + + + __________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion \_________________________________________________ +| \ +| By: The Mentor & The Dead Kennedy | +| | +| An Anarchists-R-Us Release | +| | +| Call these fine systems: | +| | +| The Lost City of Atlantis 703-327-6144 300/19.2 Amiga 45M | +| The Lighthouse............504-291-5690 300/1200 AE 10Meg PW:Ocean | +| The Pitstop...............504-774-7126 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg | +| Pirate Chip...............206-735-7468 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg | +| Silent World..............318-357-0858 CF 10 meg | +| The Asylum................504-831-4348 PW:Sanity | +| | +\____________________________________________________________________________/ + + +Napalm +------ + Mix gasoline with dish washing detergent (Ivory Soap) untill the + solution is like honey. Use it in a bottle with a rag as molotov + cocktail or paint it on something and light it. It will burn alot + longer than regular gas. + +Land Mine #1 +------------ + Take a soup can and line the inside with Petroleum jelly (enough so + you won't have air between the cup and can. Place a Styrofoam cup + inside the can and f)lU it with gasoline. Cover the soup can with a + sheet of Aluminum foil and tape it down so it is air tight. Place can + in a freezer over night. Dig a small hole in the ground and place the + can in it foil side up. Cover it up with with dirt about one inch + thick. Carefully place a nail in the dirt (don't break the foil!). + When someone steps on the nail and pierces the foil, the mine will + go off and so will their foot. + +Land Mine #2 +------------ + Get a push button switch. Take the wires and connect one end to a + 9 volt battery connecter and the other to a Solar Igniter. Connect + the other wire of the battery to the other wire on the solar igniter. + Connect the solar igniter to the fuse of one of your favorite bombs + (M-80, pipe bomb, etc.). Dig a hole, not too deep, but enough to + cover up the whole thing. Plant the switch under a leaf or something + and plant the bomb about 5 feet away. When the person steps on the + switch, there should be a 3 second delay, then it will blow. + +Black Powder +------------ + Place 5 pints of alcohol in a bucket. In another bucket, put 3 cups + of granulated potassium nitrate, 2 cups powdered wood charcoal, and + 1/2 cup of powdered sulfur into the bucket. Add 1 cup of water and + stir well with a wooden stick. Place the bucket on a heat source and + add 2 more cups of water and wait for it to bubble but don't let it + boil. Remove the bucket from the heat and pour it into the alcohol + while stirring well. Let the alcohol stand for about 5 minutes. Strain + the liquid through cheesecloth to remove the powder. Wrap the cloth + around the powder and squeeze out the excess liquid. Place a piece + of screen on top of a bucket. Place a workable amount of black powder + (That black muddy looking stuff) on the screen and begin to workd it + through. Spread the end result on a piece of newspaper and let it dry + in the sunlight. Now you have black powder which can be used to make + other bombs. + +Impact Bomb +----------- + Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight + and pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance. + Let it dry untill it hardens up. To use it, put it in a bottle or + can and just drop it or throw it at something. + +Carbide Bomb +------------ + This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... + Obtain some calcium carbide. This stuff can be found at nearly any + hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) + and put it in a glass jar with some water. Cover the jar tightly. The + carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which + is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass + with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag + nearby, you will get a nice fireball. + +Exhaust Bomb +------------ + Install a spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail + pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. + Attach a wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the + switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached + to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply + hit the switch and watch the flames. + +Turn Signal +----------- + Detach the plastic running light (or turn signal) cover on someones + car. Break the bulb. Test the bulb with a voltage meter to make sure + it is not live. Pack the bulb with Flash Paper and replace the cover. + When the person starts his car or goes to turn, a quick burst of flame + will pop out of the back of his car making him think it is on fire. + + +Winger +------ + This is the ultimate in assault devices. It is a large, three person + sling-shot designed for hurling water baloons up to 100 yards. They + are supposed to leave the sling-shot at 240mph but through personal + experience, I've gotten some to go at least 150-200 yards. As for the + speed, I don't know. These are good for launching almost anything + that is not motion sensitive. You can get them at some boat shops + (that's where I got mine), or you can order them from: + + Winger Sports LTD. + 2167 Buhl Avenue + North St. Paul Minnesota 55109 + + __________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion \_________________________________________________ +| \ +| (C) 1985/86 By Anarchists-R-Us and The Mentor | +| | +| All Rights Reserved | +| | +\____________________________________________________________________________/ + + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.2 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.2 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3167cb67 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.2 @@ -0,0 +1,142 @@ + + __________________________________________________________________________ + / ________________________________________________________________________ \ +/ / Terrorist Home Companion ][ | | Cool Boards \ \ +| | "The Day After" | | | | +| | | | Pitstop | | +| | By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | | 504-774-7126 | | +| | | | Silicon Valley | | +| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 | | 504-241-3452 | | +\ \______________________________________________________|_|________________/ / + \___________________________________________________________________________/ + +Intro: + + It's time for another file to be written. People tell me "From your + files, you don't look very much like an Anarchist, I mean, you use + fair grammar and all..". I would just like to say that I am an + Anarchist, not an illiterate (sounds pretty fake coming from some one + in New Orleans).. Also, as you can see, I'm running out of ideas. If + anyone has any good ideas or even thoughts about making bombs, tell + me. I can take a thought and turn it into a Cat Bomb for instance.. + On to the Bombs! + + +Shocking Experience +-------- ---------- + + Run a wire from spark plug #1 on your car (preferably 6 or 8 cylinder + engine) out to the bumper. Fix a rubber platform to the bumper (if you + have a metal one) and attach a coat hanger to the wire and prop it up + like a ram-rod. Next, pull up behind some fool outside of a shopping + mall waiting to pick someone up. Touch the coat hanger to the car and + rev up your engine a little. The next person to touch a metal part of + the car will get a 12 volt current through their whole body! Not +enough + to kill (unless the guy has a pace maker), but enough to make them +jump + and scare the shit out of 'em! + + +Cat Bomb +--- ---- + + Take a full can of tuna. Open it, remove all of the tuna and clean it + out real good. Drill a small hole in the side and then nail the can + down to a piece of plywood. Take a Champagne Party Popper and remove + the little explosive device on the string. Run this through the hole + (so the explosive in on the inside and the string on the outside) and + fill the can up with about 1/8 inch of gunpowder (Heavily salt-petered + for easy ignition). Place the lid back on and pack it down good. Use + Clay or Silicon to seal up the cracks on the sides. Put some of the + tuna back on top and place the bomb in the path of some soon to be + suprised feline! Tie a string to the igniter string and hide about + 20-30 feet away. When the cat stops to have a bite, pull the string! + And if all works well, the device should explode and scare or kill + the little furry bastard. + + +Loud Pipe Bomb +---- ---- ---- + + Mix Potassium Perchlorate with some 600 mesh Aluminum Powder in a + 2/1 ratio. Drill a small hole in a small piece of 1/4 in. copper + tubing. Place a fuse in the hole, pack the tube with the above + mixture, and close both ends of the tube. If you don't know what + to do from here, you shouldn't be reading this! + + +Bird Buster +---- ------ + + This isn't really a bomb, but it's fun anyway! Place some Alka-Seltzer + in someones bird feeder. When the bird eats it, it starts producing + gas. The bird can't release the gas and if he ate enough, he should + explode! + + +Tennis Ball +------ ---- + + Take a box of kitchen matches and saw all of the heads off (must be + white tips! The kind you can light on the ground!). Get a tennis ball + and pop a little hole in the top. Put the match heads in the tennis + ball untill it is full (this takes a while). Throw it at hard as you + can at your target. If the match heads were packed tight enough, it + should produce a nice sized explosion. + + +Time Delay +---- ----- + + These are the simplest forms of time delays for bombs that use fuses. + (1) Light a cigarette and break off the filter. Place the end of the + fuse in the end where the filter used to be. In about 10-15 minutes, + your device should go off. (2) Set up your bomb on a wooden platform + (Whe. planting bombs, I always do so I don't have to waste time + setting up). Place a drop of glue on the wood and mount a party candle + /. it. Lay the fuse of the bomb across the candle where it cannot move + and the flame cannot miss it. These "always" work and I have never had + any problem with dither one. + +Drink Fun +----- --- + + Ie inches of the tail + pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. + Attach a wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the + switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached + to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply + hit the switch and watch the flames. + +Turn Signal +----------- + Detach the plastic running light (or turn signal) cover on someones + car. Break the bulb. Test the bulb with a voltage meter to make sure + it is not live. Pack the bulb with Flash Paper and replace the cover. + When the person starts his car or goes to turn, a quick burst of flame + will pop out of the back of his car making him think it is on fire. + + +Winger +------ + This is the ultimate in assault devices. It is a large, three person + sling-shot designed for hurling water baloons up to 100 yards. They + are supposed to leave the sling-shot at 240mph but through personal + experience, I've gotten some to go at least 150-200 yards. As for the + speed, I don't know. These are good for launching almost anything + that is not motion sensitive. You can get them at some boat shops + (that's where I got mine), or you can order them from: + + Winger Sports LTD. + 2167 Buhl Avenue + North St. Paul Minnesota 55109 + + __________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________ | | +| | "Where there's a will, there's a dead person" -TDK | | +\ \________________________________________________________________________/ / + \__________________________________________________________________________/ + + _________________________________________________________________________ + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.3 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.3 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..20c7a2d8 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.3 @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ + _________________________________________________________________________ + / _______________________________________________________________________ \ +| / Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the Suburbs!" \ | +| | | | +| | By: The Dead Kennedy & Repo Man Call These: | | +| | Pitstop 10m AE/CF...504-774-7126 | | +| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 Silicon Valley......504-241-3452 | | +| | | | +| \______________________________________________________________________/ | +\__________________________________________________________________________/ + + + +Dept. Store Fun +--------------- + + Most department stores have those little clamp on deals that they +stick + on clothes to keep people from stealing them. Do what you must do to + get one of these (a friend who is employed there, hold the place up, + whatever). Find some lady with 3-5 kids, a stroller, a huge purse and + lots of other stuff that would make her look suspicious. Stumble by +and + plant this little devices in one of her pockets and wait by the exit. + when she walks out.. Bells! Cops! the works.. And to top it all off, + one embarrased lady! Another way is to take the thing home and rip the + little metal thing out of it (looks like a piece of card board with + metal wrapped around it). Place it deep in your wallet or in your +pants + and wait around by the entrance. When you see the same type of person + going out, you go in! Same effects. Only problem is, you have to get + back out! I suggest just leaving the little prize on someone in the + store and leaving (don't hang around, or do it at the same store +twice, + the Cops may get suspicious of you). + +Street Fun +---------- + + Take some fishing line and run it across the street. Next, hang rocks, + bolts, sinkers, etc. at windshield level. Find a telephone pole or a + tree to run it across on. Another thing to do is to use light string + to tie 2 garbage cans together and run the string across the street. + If you can't figure out what that does, you shouldn't be reading this + file! + +Bolt Bomb +--------- + + Take a bolt, 2 washers, and 2 nuts. Screw on the first bolt, place a + washer after it. Put gun powder on the washer, put the next washer on, + and screw on the last nut so that the nut is hanging out past the end + of the bolt and the 2 washers are pushed together. Drop the bolt on +the + bottom nut and it will explode. Nothing big, but it is re-usable. +Kinda + like the space shuttle. Uh, scratch that last part. + +Spoke Gun +--------- + + Take a bicycle spoke and that little nut that holds it onto the rim. + Screw the spoke into the the nut a little bit. Powderize a match head + and push it into the nut. Pack a wad of paper into the nut with +another + spoke. Hold the device from the end that doesn't have the screw on it + and then hold a flame under the nut. When it gets hot enough, it will + blow up and send the paper flying. This is small scale. If you wanted + to, you could use a piece of threaded rod and a 1 1/2 inch long nut to + make the results a little more interesting. You can even add your own + projectiles. Just be sure that the paper is in tight enough to compact + the powder. + +Flour & Gas +----------- + + Take a new bag of ordinary household flour and pour gas on it. Light + it and drop it off of something high onto a hard surface. No +explosion, + but it gives a nice efect. Kinda like an Atomic Bomb. + +PineSol & Cl +------------ + + Wrap some cholrine up in a paper towel and tie it up tight. Next, tape + it high on the inside of a Mayonaise jar (See illus. 'A'). Fill the + bottom of the jar up (don't touch the paper!) with PineSol. Screw the + top back on and place it on the ground. When ready, knock the jar over + and run like a bat out of hell (haul the mail, cruise, mobeelin', bust + ass, do what you have to do, just get away!). It will explode, and + release alot of chlorine gas. Don't breathe it in! It will kill you! + +( illustration A ) + /========\ <- Lid + | *| <- Chlorine + | *| <- + | | + |'.'.'.'.| <- PineSol + |.'.'.'.'| <- + \________/ <- + + +Hefty Gas +--------- + + Fill a hefty bag with gas from a gas stove. Tape a fuse to it and +light it. Have a book of matches at the end of the fuse to insure +ignition. + Woof! No more hefty bag! Or if you want to add some fun to it, forget + the fuse and just shoot bottle rockets at it. Same effect. + +Door Shock +---------- + + For this, you will need a 12 volt transformer. Strip about 1 inch off + of the end of each wire. Run the wires out of your bedroom door. Place + some electrical tape on the bottom of the outside door knob and then + tape the bare wires down so they won't touch. Disguise the wires so + they won't look suspicious. Turn on the transformer and wait for a + victim. This is the ultimate in privacy protection devices. Don't + use more than 12 volts. You can kill somebody. + + +Auto Annihilator +---------------- + + You owners of pick up trucks are already in possesion of urban assault + vehicles. All you need is some nice size rollable objects, some cord, + and some duct tape. Tape over the latch that hold the tailgate shut. + Tie a cord from the inside of the cab to the tailgate to hold it + closed. Now, put a bowling ball, shopping cart, tire, large diameter + steel pipe, etc. in the bed of the truck. It must be large enough to + roll over the gap between the tailgate and the bed. So now your + cruising along the interstate at 65mph and some prick pisses you off. + Just pull ahead of him, floor it, and release the tailgate cord. + Now look in the rearview mirror. Where is the asshole? Oh, that's him + spinning out of control with a grocery cart stuck in his grill. Or + is that him over there in the ditch along side of the road. No! + wait! that's him speeding up to catch you! No problem. You were smart + enough to have a few more goodies tied to another cord, like a bowling + ball. Let her rip! Wham! Yeah, that's him with the broken steering + rods smashing into the divider. I knew he was back there somewhere. + Try it going up a steep hill or a bridge to take out more happy + motorists. + + +Flare Fun +--------- + + Take the glass off of a light bulb and fill it with the yellow + make from grinding up the inside of a road flare. Tape the glass + back on and screw it back into the socket. Give a new meaning to + the "Red Light" district. + + +Non-Handymans Bomb +------------------ + + Go to the nearest auto parts store and pick up a pack of road flares + and an aerosol can of starter fluid. Take the flare and duct tape it + to the can so that the first inch or so of the flare will burn with + out touching the side of the can. When you wanna blow it up, use the + handy little scratch-n-start piece of the flare and let it blow. + Not too difficult, eh? + + +Fun With Cyano +-------------- + + You call it superglue, we call it fun. Any Cyanoacrilate glue will + do the job. It is the best prankster material ever produced by a + manufacturer. Here are a few ideas to get you started. Glue the door + to the school shut. Glue car doors, car locks, and car trunks. Glue + money to the floor at the mall. On a busy day at the mall, put some on + a coin and roll it infront of some lozers. It won't dry until it hits + their skin because it needs moisture to dry. Spill some on your +enemies + pants. Glue the dictionary shut. Glue books to the table at the + library. Glue windsheild wipers down. Glue gaps caps on. The + possibilities are endless. Cyano takes a while to dry on metal + surfaces. When you put a few drops of cyano in baking soda or on saw + dust, it turns to a rock hard substance. Fill the desired spot with + the powder, and apply as much glue as necessary. + + ____________________________________________________________________________ +/ Terrorist Home Companion IV "More Creative Ideas" \ +| (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | +| "Lead us not into temptation.. Tell us where it is, we'll find it" -TDK | +\____________________________________________________________________________/ + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.5 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.5 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d579c84a --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.5 @@ -0,0 +1,131 @@ + _____________________________ +| Terrorist Home Companion V |______________________________________________ +| "The day we make contact" | +| qp Call These qp| +| By: Soft Jock and The Dead Kennedy db ---- ----- db| +| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp| +| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db| +|This file written in remembrance of Bug qp both 3/12 10m BBS/AE/CF qp| +| Byter and Soft Jock (MCI, R.I.P.) db db| +|____________________________________________________________________________| + + + + With World War III knocking on our door, I feel it is every persons +right to be able to protect and defend his or her's investments. With the +Government making it almost impossible for the average person to have a decent +weapon, I guess that only means that you will have to make them yourself. So, +I've come back with a few more ideas, both serious and prank. + +Fire Grenade Launcher +--------------------- + + First, you will need a 12 or 16 gauge shotgun. You must mount two + T=ygs to it and make it like a tripod with the stock being the third + leg. Take a shell and hacksaw off the front part with the shot in + it. Place the modified shell in the chamber. Take a long piece of + circular wood (like a broomstick) and shove it in through the barell. + Make sure it is at least touching the shell (don't push too hard + unless you want a broomstick through your head!). Next, mount a + small rubber platform on the end of the stick. Securely fasten a + molotov cocktail the the platform (coke bottle filled with gas, + oil, detergent, and an oily rag in the top). Light the rag and pull + the trigger. With practice, you can shoot this thing wih amazing + accuracy. + + +Explosive Ideas +--------------- + + Everyone has made a bomb and just lit it and watched it go boom. + there are ways to get more out of your boom. If you take something + like sandbags or bags of cement and lay them on top or on the sides + of your bomb, the result will be much more damaging and will create + a smoke screen (if you use something like cement or flour and not + rocks or sand). + + +Itching Powder +-------------- + + I know this is no Anarchy, but ideas are running low. This, however, + makes a great practical joke! Get some fiberglass insulation (either + by punching a hole in your wall and removing it, or by going to a + construction sight and lifting it). Grind it up good (for large + amounts, I suggest something like a blender). Now just place this + pink powder anywhere you wish. This is better than the stuff you can + buy in the store. I got some asshole in the movies and he itched + all throughout the show. Don't ask me why I had itching powder in + the movies, but it did work. + + +Rain Detination +--------------- + + Here's an easy way to let mother nature help you set off a few bombs + (they must be ELECTRICAL). If it's raining out, place 2 test leads + into a cup (or 2 wires), each on opposite sides, so that they are + touching the bottom of the cup. Next place some metalic substance + (that DOES conduct electricity) in the bottom (not too much! Don't + connect the wires!). Wire up your favorite bomb around this leaving + the only break in the circuit in the bottom of the cup. When it rains + enough, the water will begin to fill cup, mix with the metal, and act + as a bridge for the electricity. If all was set up correctly, your + device should go off. In the event of no rain, just use one of those + Solar Cells (obtainable from Radio Shack) and connect it to a solar + igniter (this must be a FIRE type bomb with a fuse!). Connect the + igniter to the fuse, set the bomb in a shady place (that is soon + to be in the light), and leave. All should go as planned. + + +Whistler Bomb +------------- + + Do you have one of those asshole coaches in your school always + blowing that damn whistle at you? If so, here's an idea that will + shut his ass up for a while. First, make a small batch of your + favorite friction sensitive explosive (see early "Terrorist Home + Companion" files written by me and a few other aRu members). Fill + his whistle up with it (not a whole bunch or he'll notice. Just enough + so it will make a boom he will never forget. Now, go be an asshole on + the field and wait for his to give it a good blow. "Gee coach, how did + you get shrapnel in your face?" + + +Exploding Pipe +-------------- + + So you have that asshole teacher or mean old man on the block who + smokes a (cough, cough) pipe. Or maybe even your favorite weedhead. + Steal the guys pipe (like from his car). If it is a good pipe, you + should be able to pull it into 2 pieces. Clean it out (with a pipe + cleaner, they're cheap). Run a fuse from the bowl back to where the + pipe goes back together. Place a small explosive inside the tube + where the smoke comes through to the mouth and wire it up to the + fuse. Next, replace the burnt tobacco that was in the bowl and put + it back where you got it from. "What's wrong, not getting enough + drag? Maybe you should suck harder. Boom!" + + ____________________________________________________________________________ +/ ________________________________________________________________________ \ +| ! ! | +| | Terrorist Home Companion part V "The day we make contact" | | +| | | | +| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | | +| | | | +| | "Anarchists don't die, they just lose their cars and re-group" | | +| | -Soft Jock | | +| !________________________________________________________________________! | +\____________________________________________________________________________/ + + +Downloaded from.. + + The Lost City of Atlantis + . _ . __ |\ _ . +. .__ =| |[] |# |# ._ . + ...##.=|.|[].|#:|#.|=|... +- -- --- ------------ --- - - + 703 - 327 - 6144 + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..91a024c4 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4391 @@ + + + + The Terrorist's Handbook + ------------------------ + Written BY: UNKNOWN AUTHOR + +HEAVILY EDITED by: Kloey Detect of Five O and B.S. of Hardbodies + +Special thanks to WordPerfect Corporation for their spelling +checker.......This file NEEDED IT! + +(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*) +SPECIAL THANX ALSO GOES OUT TO: + +The Backstabber: For being the ULTIMATE pirate! +Nitro Glycerine: For providing the files! +Xpax : For being patient while the cop was there! +The Producer : For getting the files to me.... +The Director : For getting the files to me.... +Mr. Camaro : For his BIG EGO!!! +The Magician : For ALL the Bernoulli carts he is gonna send!! + + +This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is +the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown +author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be +merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then +spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not +spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell +check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors +which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience +to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little +error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!! + + +This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi +.....Wherever you both may be..... + + + THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK + ------------------------ + + +1.0 INTRODUCTION + + Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is +proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First and +foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities +for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The purpose +of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this +and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social goals. +The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be +carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one all the more +frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this information, +and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques herein SHOULD NOT BE +CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM +ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS MERELY +FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! + +Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has some +idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is +the reason for the existence of this publication. + + + + + + +1.1 Table of Contents + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + +2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS +2.01 ........ Black Powder +2.02 ........ Pyrodex +2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder +2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder +2.05 ........ Flash Powder +2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS +2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks +2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY +2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS +2.31 ........ Nitric Acid +2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid +2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES +3.01 ........ Explosive Theory +3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES +3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals +3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate +3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine +3.14 ........ Picrates +3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.21 ........ Black Powder +3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose +3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures +3.24 ........ Perchlorates +3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) +3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.33 ........ ANFOS +3.34 ........ T.N.T. +3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate +3.36 ........ Dynamite +3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives +3.38 ........ Picric Acid +3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) +3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride +3.41 ........ Lead Azide +3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" +3.51 ........ Thermit +3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails +3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle +3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives +4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES +4.1 ....... SAFETY +4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES +4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition +4.22 ........ Impact Ignition +4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition +4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition +4.241 ....... Mercury Switches +4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches +4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators +4.3 ....... DELAYS +4.31 ........ Fuse Delays +4.32 ........ Timer Delays +4.33 ........ Chemical Delays + + + + + + +4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS +4.41 ........ Paper Containers +4.42 ........ Metal Containers +4.43 ........ Glass Containers +4.44 ........ Plastic Containers +4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES +4.51 ........ Shaped Charges +4.52 ........ Tube Explosives +4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions +4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs +4.55 ........ Book Bombs +4.56 ........ Phone Bombs +5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS +5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) +5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition +5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition +5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition +5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) +5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition +5.22 ........ Shotguns +5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) +5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition +5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition +6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS +6.1 ....... ROCKETS +6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb +6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb +6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs +6.2 ........ CANNONS +6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon +6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon +7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA +7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs +7.2 ......... Colored Flames +7.3 ......... Tear Gas +7.4 ......... Fireworks +7.41 ........ Firecrackers +7.42 ........ Skyrockets +7.43 ........ Roman Candles +8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION +9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS +10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY +11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS + + Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and +a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in +order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something +about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, +is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each +different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder +depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of +powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: +the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. + + +2.01 BLACK POWDER + + + Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, +the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely +important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in +a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is +desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along +with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, +the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other +grades and uses are listed below: + + + GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN + ÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles + FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles + FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers + + + The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has +more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger +grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of +black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected +by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer +grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be +ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to +absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic +spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would +apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes +or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine +as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes +to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 +foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can +own black powder firearms in America. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +2.02 PYRODEX + + + Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes +in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound +container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black +powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and +it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will +not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined +to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the +same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried. + + +2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER + + One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is +the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are +composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by +a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube +lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the +grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is +usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally +hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the widest +setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, +the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to +all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. +Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly +powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come +in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are +perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they +can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder. + + +2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER + + Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle +standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be +referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the +action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is +then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When +dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of +black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly +compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder +burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. +Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants +is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any +idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the +U.S. + + +2.05 FLASH POWDER + + + Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various +oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated +with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is +sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very +finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The +fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. + + + + + + It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot +white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. +It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. + + +2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + + Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as +a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite +with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is +touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation +will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high +explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of +nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the +"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" +consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the +ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the +outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in +a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it +tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many +fertilizers. + + +2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS + + + The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section +deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. +Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the +labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter +lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and +most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears +a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone +asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking +for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department +other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various +labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There +are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as +placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back +exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before +this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a +lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the +cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never +know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one +plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the +actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know +when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if +none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a +rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another +person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an +odd hour. + + +2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS + + + If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's +most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are +unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these +methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. + + + + + +These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, +but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule +here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several +devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental +tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket- +knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these +tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch +out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding +whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out +from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum +can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged +ends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a +single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the +strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 +inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, +or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this: + + + (1) + + _________________________________________________________ v +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | + ^ + + Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of +aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped +device that looks like this: + __________________________________________ + / ________________________________________| + | | + | | L-shaped + | | + | | + |_| + + _____________________________ + / ___________________________| + | | + | | J-shaped + | | + | |________ + \________| + + _____________________ + / ___________________| + | | + | | + | | U-shaped + | | + | |____________________ + \____________________| + + + All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and +pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between +the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made +properly. + + + + + + +2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY + + Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, +and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous +compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some +money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. + + +Chemical Used In Available at +-------- ------- ------------ + +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- +alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores + solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, +nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- +nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- +magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores +---------------------------------------------------------------------------- +lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- +mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- +mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- +sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store +_____________________________________________________________________________ +charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store +_____________________________________________________________________________ +cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, +_____________________________________________________________________________ +fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, +_____________________________________________________________________________ +bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, +_____________________________________________________________________________ +potassium permanganate water purification purification plants +_____________________________________________________________________________ +hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores +methenamine (camping) +_____________________________________________________________________________ +nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops + plates photography stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +iodine & first aid drug stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores + for cutting torches +_____________________________________________________________________________ + + + + + +notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a + solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be + at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. + Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + + + + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The + pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear + ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. + + + @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They + may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury + switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a + hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or + mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will + cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea + not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not + get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. + + + ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually + stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later + section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. + + + & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline + form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. + To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's + prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the + means that terrorists resort to. + + +2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS + +2.31 NITRIC ACID + + + There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for + explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once + again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! + + Materials: Equipment: + --------- --------- + sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source + potassium nitrate + retort + distilled water + ice bath + concentrated + sulfuric acid stirring rod + + collecting flask with stopper + + +1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. + +2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium +nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, +carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. + + + + + + +3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the + collecting flask in the ice bath. + +4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid + begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric + acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, + or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too + strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This + can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may + explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get + away from it. + + + Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, +simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out +the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be +necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of +boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel +into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and +sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of +water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. + + +2.32 SULFURIC ACID + + Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or +industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. +A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car +battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be +pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, +either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can +also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster +than clean motor oil. + + +2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order +explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large +flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask +and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have +stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place +until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. +There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must +be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from +the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY +gently to drive off the remaining water. + + +3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES + + Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE +ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS +TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT +OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. + + These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual +could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually +scaled-down industrial procedures. + + + + + + + +3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY + + An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, +undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that +is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down +into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece +of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are +displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater +than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the +mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order +explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which +may do both. + + High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high +order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes +through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart +the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately +equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high +explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks +apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses. +T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives. + + Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. +when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and +gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under +pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder, +which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they +are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn +much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions. +Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order +explosives. + + Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as +mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are +usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low +explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they +are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined, +they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. +Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, +a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently +used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by +the detonation of its primer. + + +3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES + + Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed +here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium +triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no +light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even +the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. + + +3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS + + Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals +that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they +are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such +crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks +across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps +and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or + + + + + +heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine +gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that +the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine +in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It +leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. +Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the +ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on +the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously +washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, +a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw +several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly +injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that +not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide +crystals could be produced in the following manner: + + Materials Equipment + --------- --------- + + iodine crystals funnel and filter paper + + paper towels + clear ammonia + (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars + for the suicidal) + + +1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars + must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. + +2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. + +3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. + The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic + chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle + is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved + side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone + into the funnel. + +4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the + solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. + +5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar + to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. + +6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, + and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that + they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could + well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about + eight chunks. + +7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of + duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape + together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. + Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and + store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of + about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be + thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which + gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One + possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight + containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them + where they will be stepped on or crushed. + + + + + + +3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE + + + Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating +compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it +of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of +the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would +probably use the following procedure: + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + --------- --------- + + mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod + + concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2) + acid (35 ml) + adjustable heat + ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source + + distilled water blue litmus paper + + funnel and filter paper + + + +1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, + using the glass rod. + +2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the + solution turns green and boils. + +3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully + add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes + should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. + +4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that + the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the + distilled water to the solution. + +5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid + solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive + and toxic. + +6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess + acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are + neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the + wet crystals + +7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from + any explosive or flammable material. + + + This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury + cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of + ethanol to every one volume of mercury. + + + + + + + + +3.13 NITROGLYCERINE + + Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not +the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. +Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to +make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the +all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is +converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts +to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: + + + MATERIAL EQUIPMENT + -------- --------- + + distilled water eye-dropper + + table salt 100 ml beaker + + sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) + + concentrated nitric ice bath container + acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) + + concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer + acid (39 ml) + blue litmus paper + glycerine + + +1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. + +2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about + a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate + dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some + remains undissolved. + +3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and + adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall + temperature. + +4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated + nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill + into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker + when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath + container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 + degrees centigrade or less. + +5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the + 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids + together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good + idea to start another ice bath to do this. + +6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop + at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed + acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 + DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN + LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the + temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a + thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to + make any explosive in small quantities. + + + + + + +7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, + adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution + in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the + nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the + concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. + +8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 + degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine + and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The + nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid + solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the + acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine. + +9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it + into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate + much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less + likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine + with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if + necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. + +10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean + container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is + far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. + Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored + in a secure cool place. + + +3.14 PICRATES + + Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or +trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they +are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with +metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the +water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, +and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range +molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, +and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive. + +3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun +stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise +wise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking +individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making +his own low-order explosives. + + +3.21 BLACK POWDER + + + First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first +used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, +but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is +converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine +burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by +static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be +made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could +manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: + + + + + + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + --------- --------- + potassium clay grinding bowl + nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder + + or or + + sodium wooden salad bowl + nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon + + sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) + + charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) + + distilled water coffee pot or heat source + + +1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl + and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or + sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. + +2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a + separate plastic bag. + +3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and + add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. + +4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium + nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no + more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. + +5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight + is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it + is hot enough to evaporate the water. + +6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. + Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black + powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static + electricity. + + +3.22 NITROCELLULOSE + + Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more +stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It +also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. +Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following +procedure: + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + --------- --------- + cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers + + concentrated funnel and filter paper + nitric acid + blue litmus paper + concentrated + sulfuric acid + + distilled water + + + + + +1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this + 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid. + +2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 + minutes. + +3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water + to wash it in. + +4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. + +5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to + be dried and stored. + + +3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES + + There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can +be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective +and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working +fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each +compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be +given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: + + + + oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ + potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact + sensitive; unstable +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; + charcoal 15% unstable +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely + magnesium or unstable! + aluminum dust 25% +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable + aluminum dust 33% +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable + sulfur 5% burn rate +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before + ignition depends + WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable + magnesium or + aluminum dust 20% +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is + sulfur 10% black powder! +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot + or magnesium 40% + + + + + + oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ + potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- + sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for + and small amount of space shuttle + iron oxide +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder + sulfur 20% +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate + potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate + aluminum dust 5% flash powder +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly + magnesium or unstable + aluminum dust 25% +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable + calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; + aluminum or ignites if + magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable + sulfur 10% +================================================================================ + +NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium + perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. + + The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns +AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of +burning. + + As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures +that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), +different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity +of the mixture. + + +3.24 PERCHLORATES + + As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid +will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or +sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can +be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium +perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or +potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated +with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react +explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium +hydroxide are ideal. + + + + + +3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + High order explosives can be made in the home without too much +difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high +explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is +made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) +molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a +material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the +nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in +a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based +explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, +several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. + + + +3.31 R.D.X. + + R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with +plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is +because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to +detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too +severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, +but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the +surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the +home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium +nitrate. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + --------- --------- + + hexamine 500 ml beaker + or + methenamine glass stirring rod + fuel tablets (50 g) + funnel and filter paper + concentrated + nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container + (plastic bucket) + distilled water + centigrade thermometer + table salt + blue litmus paper + ice + + ammonium nitrate + +1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully + pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. + +2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of + the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it + must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result. + Stir the mixture. + +3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice + and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium + nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is + put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below + zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes + + + + + + +4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, + and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and + dispose of the corrosive liquid. + +5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter + the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 + until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable + and safe. + +6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely + using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. + +7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% + mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic + bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive. + +8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. + it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. + +9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should + be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium + nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could + also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X. + +10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a + density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. + + +3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap- +hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, +since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive +to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a +drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium +nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather +powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The +diagram below will explain. + + _________________________________________ + | | | + ________| | | + | | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate | + |primer |booster| | + |_______| | | + | | | + |_______|_______________________________| + + The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending + a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. + + +3.33 ANFOS + + ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO +solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick +up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate +when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) +ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium +nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large +shockwave to set it off. + + + + + +3.34 T.N.T. + + + T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high +explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known +high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It +is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well +known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is +designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the +product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one +step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very +strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very +strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, +and it is filtered. + + + +3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE + + + Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be +obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of +vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the +material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, +however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making +such an explosive is outlined below: + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + --------- --------- + + + potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag + (9 parts, by volume) + + petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl + (vaseline) or + (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon + + + +1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, + until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is + powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. + +2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the + plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. + put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. + +3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium + chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, + add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. + +4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to + greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, + is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. + + + + + + + + + +3.36 DYNAMITE + + The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. +Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was +made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided +individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) +would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various +materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large +weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate +could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase +the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. + + + +3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES + + + Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All +that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric +and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of +concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold +water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. +Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are +more readily detonated. + + + +3.38 PICRIC ACID + + + Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military +explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less +sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple +to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric +acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab +manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its +tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as +potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such +as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably +use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid. + + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask + + concentrated adjustable heat source + sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) + 1000 ml beaker + concentrated nitric or other container + acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in + + distilled water filter paper + and funnel + + glass stirring rod + + + + + + + +1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 + ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. + +2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and + bring the water to a gentle boil. + +3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling + water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty + minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for + about five minutes. + +4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to + cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, + steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice + bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the + mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When + the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. + +5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap + water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat + it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. + +6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice + bath until it is cold. + +7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution + through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it + in a safe place, since it is corrosive. + +8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the + filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. + +9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. + +10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will + react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode + spontaneously. + + +3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE + + + Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. +It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that +required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since +it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal +containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia. +All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and +dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in +excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should +be ammonium picrate. + + +3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE + + + Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow +liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or +when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to +produce. + + + + + + +1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. + Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it + remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. + +2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric + acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass + pipe. + +3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the + beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers + together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow + droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down + to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. + + Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate + solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires + timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. + + The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently + heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes + from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating + flask in another flask that contains water. + +4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, + since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. + + +3.41 LEAD AZIDE + + Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for +other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive +explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it +is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is +simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. + + By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate +beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers +together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate +solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the +beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in +hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. +If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead +metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. + + +3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" + + The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can +be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials +presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. + +3.51 THERMIT + + Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous +amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react +nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely +powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from +the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a +combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by +an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited, +it is one of the most effective firestarters around. + + + + + + MATERIALS + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + powdered aluminum (10 g) + + powdered iron oxide (10 g) + + +1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply + mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as + possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and + be made in greater or lesser amounts. + +2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of + potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid + on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The + other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by + using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture + can be ignited. + + +3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS + + + First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now +exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and +can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such +as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, +turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass +bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable +liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid +in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth +around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to +light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth +does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle +will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame. +Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more +volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture +such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, +and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this +must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown. + + + +3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE + + The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather +than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best +a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very +hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the +container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the +paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the +acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance +of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if +there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. + + + + + + + + + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + potassium chlorate glass bottle + (2 teaspoons) (12 oz.) + + sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, + with plastic inside + + concentrated cooking pan with raised + sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges + + gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels + + glass or plastic cup + and spoon + + + +1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure + that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the + acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until + a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. + +2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. + +3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. + Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on + the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside + to dry. + +4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of + sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, + or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. + +5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold + the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium + chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to + dry. + +6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing + the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the + bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle + in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. + +7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct + liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution + on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, + simply throw it at any hard surface. + +8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH + COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, + CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. + +9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, + and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should + immediately burst into a white flame. + + + + + + + + + +3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES + + + Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane +stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To +make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be +to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other +gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and +on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to +the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas +would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large +fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container +often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By +using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition +are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the +canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would +probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, +since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the +gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, +hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely. + + + +4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES + + + Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to +apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism, +to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER +IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! + The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would +be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had +to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would +also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine +where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see +if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or +moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive +device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section. + + +4.1 SAFETY + + There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak +in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. + + +4.2 IGNITION DEVICES + + There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic +"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive +mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation +systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more +appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical +detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device +with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide. + + + + + + + + + +4.21 FUSE IGNITION + + + The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite +type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in +a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is +extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is +available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for +a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because +of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. + Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses +fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be +acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not +just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does +not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. +One such method is described below: + + + MATERIALS + _________ + + strike-on-cover type matches + + electrical tape or duct tape + + waterproof fuse + +1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a + 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the + start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when + the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and + you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown + below: + + Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time + of combustion is 20 seconds. + + + + 20 seconds + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ = 2.5 seconds per inch. + 8 inches + + + If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired + time by the number of seconds per inch: + + 10 seconds + ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ = 4 inches + 2.5 seconds / inch + +NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, + AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA + INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! + + +2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is + to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and + cut it off. + + + + + + +3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not + pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard + base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one + to make a second igniter. + +4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches + touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not + to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling + on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move. + +5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making + sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces + the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. + Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave + enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. + + _____________________ + \ / + \ / ------ match book cover + \ / + | M|f|M ---|------- match head + | A|u|A | + | T|s|T | + | C|e|C | + |tapeH|.|Htape| + | |f| | + |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper + |#####|s|#####| + \ |e| / + \ |.| / + \ |f| / + \ |u| / + |ta|s|pe| + |ta|e|pe| + |.| + |f| + |u| + |s| + |e| + |.| + |_| + + + The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. + The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the + matcheads when the match book is pulled. + +6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the + striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. + In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the + burning match heads. + + + +4.22 IMPACT IGNITION + + Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous +terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it +must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being +transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a +removable impact initiator. + + + + + + The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory +made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such +primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such +a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples +are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a +package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes +all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the +cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: + + ________________ + | | + _ | + | | | + _______| |^^^^^^^^| | + | ___________| | + | | | + no. 11 |_______| | + percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing + cap here | | | nipple onto bomb + | |___________ | + |_______ | | + | |^^^^^^^^^| | + |_| | + | + |________________| + + + When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into +whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed +into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed +on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount +before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The +only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must +strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small +parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, +should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with +mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it +strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person +carrying the bomb is bumped hard. + +4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION + + Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and +most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition +work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools +of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", +comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get +hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device +will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less +than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or +if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters +are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction +also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost +about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two +wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, +but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run +through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs +can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium +chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black +powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order +explosive. + + + + + +4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION + + Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of +mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of +switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person +who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it +explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed + + +4.241 Mercury Switches + + Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal +conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at +room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with +two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's +nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help +to explain a mercury switch. + + ______________ + A / \ B + _____wire +______/___________ \ + \ ( Hg ) | / + \ _(_Hg_)__|___/ + | + | + wire - | + | + | + + When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both +contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in +its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can +touch both contacts in the horizontal position. + If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only +touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury +does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. + This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in +the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door +would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. +This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to +touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the +igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it +slammed in your face by an explosion. + + +4.242 Tripwire Switches + + A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly +invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and +by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. +If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a +tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of +a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, +and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can +be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the +contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the +tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to +flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, +which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between +the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it +it to explode. + + + + + + + __________________________________ + \_foil___________________________/ + Insert strip of ----------------------------spring + wood with trip- _foil__________________________ + wire between foil /_______________________________\ + contacts. + + +Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since +the spring also conducts electricity. + + +4.243 Radio Control Detonators + + + In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled +detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be +several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, +in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators +is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that +a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio +control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to +devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store +or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, +all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the +motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the +elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the +squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The +device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully +charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part +that used to move parts before the device became a detonator). + + +4.3 DELAYS + + A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is +set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would +cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with +the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to +be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it +does. + + +4.31 FUSE DELAYS + + It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for +ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average +cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, +the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker +than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to +go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in +a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of +a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough +oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses +will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure +they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate +is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way +through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing +the fuse for a device in the hole formed. + + + + + + + + + |=| + |=| ---------- filter + |=| + | | + | | + |o| ---------- hole for fuse + cigarette ------------ | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + |_| ---------- light this end + + + + A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet +of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with +powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a +fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused +with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with +powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of +charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks +of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first +brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply +store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse +about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible. + Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the +home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of +boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all +cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, +it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the +end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black +powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the +slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of +slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black +powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper +is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is +allowed to dry. + + + +4.32 TIMER DELAYS + + + Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who +wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location +and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place +if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. +By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, +and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be +made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less +than an hour is desired. + + + + + + + + + + ___________________________________ to igniter from igniter + | | + | 12 | : : + | 11 1 | : : + | | : : + | 10 2 | : : + | o................|......: : + | | : + | 9 3 | : + | | : + | | : + | 8 4 | : + | o.........|...... : + | 7 5 | : : + | 6 | :.+.....-.....: + |__________________________________| __|_____| + | | + | battery | + o - contacts | | + ..... - wire | | + |___________| + + This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of the +clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit, +allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib. + + The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set + for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in +an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing +the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or +igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize +this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into. +All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, +connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic +watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the +watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer +could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would +be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from +the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib +would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that +would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or +electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would +not have to be stepped up. + + +4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS + + + Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in +some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, +and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat +through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum +foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be +open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is +forming does not break the container. See diagram on following page. + + + + + + + + + + + _ _ + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |_____________| | + | | | | + | | sulfuric | | + | | | | + | | acid | | + | | | |---------- aluminum foil + | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) + |_________________| + + + The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured +there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used +to ignite an explosive device in several ways. + + 1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that + eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed + underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, + a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the + wires are immersed in the acid. + + 2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If + the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, + the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be + used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter + for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 + ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for + the rest of the thermit. + + 3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. + + + +4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS + + + This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to +a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which +are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. + + +4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS + + + Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was +first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very +simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses +for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers +and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it +together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and +dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of +Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their +manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet +of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so +that it looks like this: + + + + + + + ________________________________________________________ + | |\ + | | \ + | | \ + |______________________________________________________|___\ + + and then fold it again so that it looks like this: + + _______________________________________________________ + | /| + | / | + | / | + |__________________________________________________/___| + + A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex, +flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel- +oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then +inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill +out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped +together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container, +and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished +polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one +shown below: + + + ^ + / \ ----- securely tape all corners + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \____________________________ + /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse + + + + +4.42 METAL CONTAINERS + + + The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained +explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match +heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- +tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills +the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause +enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the +unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the +less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would +buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in +one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder +will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long +inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly, +possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then +pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take a +large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the +powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil +or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, he +would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help +prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe +cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder, +causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2. + + + + + + + _________ _______________ __________ + | | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | | + | |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | ___________________________ | | + | | | | | | + | |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| | + |_______| |________| + + fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps. + + + + ________ ________ + | _____|________________________________|_____ | + | |__________________________________________| | + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| + | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- + | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | |________|_________________________________| | + | |__________________________________________| | + |______| |______| + + endcap pipe endcap + w/ hole + + fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. + + + This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, +he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a +piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable +position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding +it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper +pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb +out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. +First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure +not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded +over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be +drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. +Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack +it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other +end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this +slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which +could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: + + ________ + _______________________________________________/ | + | | + | o | + |______________________________________________ | + \_______| + + fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) + + + + + + + + ______ + ____________________________________________/ | | + | | | + | o | | + |___________________________________________ | | + \__|__| + + fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) + + ____________ fuse hole + | + v + _________________________________________________ + | \ |____ | + | \____| | + | ______| + | / + |_____________________________/__________________ + + fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) + + _________________ fuse + / + | + ________ ______________________________|___ _______ + | ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ | + | |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| | + |________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______| + \ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - / + \_____________________________________/ + + + fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive + (side view) + + + + + A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for +a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming +to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge +with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the +CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel- +oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called +"crater makers". + + A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary +device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so +that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The +fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the +thermit. + The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for +low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the +latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller +low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order +explosive would probably be used. It would look something like: + + + + + + + + + + _______________________ fuse + | + | + | + _________ | _________ + | ____|__________________________|___________|____ | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | + | | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | | + | | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | | + | | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | | + | | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | | + | | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | |______________________________________________| | + |_______| |_______| + + + If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, +then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, +which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. + +4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS + + + Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there +are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively +easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the +not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would +probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of +a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he +still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of +his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... + + Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by +a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal +detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill +the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly +in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. + + + ________________________ fuse + | + | + | + _____|_____ + | ___|___ | + | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; + | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap + | > | < | + | | | + | | + | | + | | screw cap on bottle + | | + | | + V V + + + + + + _________ + < > + < > + < > + / \ + / \ + / \ + | | fill bottle with low-order explosive + | | + | | + | | + | | + |___________| + + + Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, +since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive +that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger +than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for +high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand +the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was +able to detonate. + + + +4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS + + + Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since +they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping +can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones +used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with +plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not +detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by +heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be +glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used +as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a +drying agent works best in this type of device. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + || || + || || + ||\_____________/|| + || || + || epoxy || + ||_______________|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||** explosive **|| + ||***************|| + ||***********----------------------- fuse + ||***************|| + ||ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + || || + || epoxy || + || _____________ || + ||/ \|| + || || + || || + + + One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the +device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue +paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe +works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an +inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used +int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. + + + + +4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES + + + The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person +who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this +information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. Advanced +uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount +of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve high- +order explosives. + + +4.51 SHAPED CHARGES + + + A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs +the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be +used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds +of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order +explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL +EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! + + + + + + An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + + + + wire ________ _______ - wire + | | + | | + | | + _ _________|_________|____________ + ^ | ________|_________|__________ | + | | | | | | | + | | | \ igniter / | | + | | | \_______/ | | + | | | priming charge | | + | | | (mercury fulminate) | | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | / \ | | + 8 inches high | | / \ | | + | | / high \ | | + | | | / explosive \ | | + | | | / charge \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch + | | | / \ | | thick steel + | | | / \ | | pipe + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | hole for | | | | hole for + | screw | | | | screw + | | | | | + V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ + |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| + + |<------- 8 inches -------->| + + If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would +direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening +of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the +explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device +such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful +electromagnet. + + + + + + + + + + +4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES + + + A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that +shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with +a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive +container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced; +a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of +explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole. +The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever +it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like +this: + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + || || + || || + ||\____/|| + || epoxy|| + ||______|| + || || + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||______|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || RDX || + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || ____ || + || | s| || + || | q| || + || | u| || + || | i| || + || | b| || + || | b| || + || |__| || + ||__||__|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||__||__|| + || || || + || epoxy|| + || || || + || _||_ || + ||/ || \|| + || || || + || || || + ||_______ + wire ______________ + | + |________ - wire ______________ + + + + + + + When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap +it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube +bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, +and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. + + + +4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS + + + If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small +particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion +similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The +tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, +pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and +ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push +the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle +explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly +flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, +or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be +extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon +jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge +was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this +occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely +occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish +this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead +of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high +explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion +does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material. + + + + +4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS + + + + An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the +light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead +light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes +with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the +lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a +lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must +be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue +gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other +bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or +oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked +in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case, +once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the +bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the +glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base +with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient +to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the +socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be +done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been +used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the +room for a bomb without first turning on the light. + + + + + + + + + +4.55 BOOK BOMBS + + + Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where +perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched +by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend +to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is +called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of +a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of +the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law +books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual +makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for +the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a +book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping +saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring +an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling +the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will +hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution +has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, +the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each +page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of +the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. +Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice +works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must +be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. +Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a +rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell +of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this: + + + ________________________ + | ____________________ | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |__________________| | + |______________________| + + (book covers omitted) + + + This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. +After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled +variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever +timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling +or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has +been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its +destination. + + + + + + + + + + +4.56 PHONE BOMBS + + + The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past +to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the +person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high +explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the +current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the +high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is +acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece +cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. +Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver, +and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1. +Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whom +the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and +remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that +the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the +phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable +that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes... + + +5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS + + + Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social +deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over +individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to +kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from crossbows +to shotguns. + + +5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS + + + For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive +that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This +means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. + + + +5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION + + + Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is +extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter +to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum +piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire +segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates +upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tube +of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and +epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high- +order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece +of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making +sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and +secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical +or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting +goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: + + + + + + + + + + _____ + | | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap + ||*|| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| ----------- aluminum piping + |*| + |e| + |x| + |p| + |l| + |o| + |s| + |i| + |v| + |e| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + /|_|\ + / |t| \ + | |p| | + | |_| | + | |e| | -------- fins + | |p| | + | |y| | + |_|_|_| + |_| + + + tp: tissue paper + + epy: epoxy + + When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap +explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive. + + +5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS + + + The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. +A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive +or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile +is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use +of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. +Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the +capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional +high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, +if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would +be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end +containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive +struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch +long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this: + + + + + + ____________________ + /mercury | \----------------------- + (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels + \________|___________/----------------------- + + + + +5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS + + + A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter +marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well +be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the +relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the +wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. +A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device +by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe +could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would +be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse +was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it +reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that +are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for +wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of +their light weight. + + + + +5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS + + + When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and +rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with +a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be +difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There +is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition +is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the +slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For +this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. + + +5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS + + + If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her +handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive +explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, +and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole +in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of +an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed +in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed +exploding bullet is shown below. + + _o_ ------------ drop of wax + /|*|\ + | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive + | |_| | + |_____| + + This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. + + + + + +5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS + + Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create +some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun +shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. +Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to +the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun- +launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the +shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches +away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide +what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a +chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb +(sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to +the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or +incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device +has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile +is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun +projectile is shown below: + + + + + ____ + || | + || | + || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel + || | + ||__| + || | + || | ------- fuse + || | + || + || + || + || --------- dowel + || + || + || + || + || + || --------- insert this end into shotgun + + + + +5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS + + + This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for +compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, +and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids +toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS + + + A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or +pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber +of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle +velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber +projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a +caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use +primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun +stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers +detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if +they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit +in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they +will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is +attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the +tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A +diagram of such a projectile appears below: + + + _____ primers _______ + | | + | | + | | + V V + ______ ______ + | ________________________ |------------------- + | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or + | ________________________ |------------------- cotton + |_____ _____|------------------- + ^ + | + | + |_______ antenna tubing + + The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. +The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. +Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to +insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile +should be about 3/4 of an inch long. + + + +5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS + + + A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at +close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be +adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in +section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. +Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have +to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since +there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, +but anything larger will do nicely. + + + + + + + + + + + + +6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS + + + Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. +Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are +difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. +Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things. +A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear. + + + +6.1 ROCKETS + + + Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years +before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. +They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, +expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used +constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. +Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they +can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space +age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of +Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their +most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; +enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. +Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which +develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, +and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have +three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them. + + + __________________________________________________________ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing + \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| + ______ _ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| + / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| + /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + casing + + + The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled +"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a +propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, +rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. +After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is +ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that +has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, +white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen +when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it +ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely +powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The +explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. +It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... + + + + + + + + + + + + Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine +labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an +indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" +engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The +number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. +the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust +period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a +3 second delay. + + +NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum + dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. + The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. + + + +6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB + + + A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered +to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device +would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa +wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a +basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 +cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of +the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge +of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb +should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. + + + ____________ rocket engine + | _________ crater maker + | | + | | + V | + _______________________________V_ + |_______________________________| ______________________ + \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ + \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ + __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) + / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / + /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ + |_______________________________| + + + thrust> - - - - - - + smoke> *** + ejection charge> :::: + + + Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket +engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge +Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such +as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. + + + + Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that +the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: + + + + + + |\ + | \ + | \ + | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine + | \ + | \ + | \ + | | + | | + | | + leading edge | + -------> | + | | + | | trailing edge + | | <-------- + | | + | | + | | + | | + \_____/ + + + The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so +that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two +inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it +from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of +a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins +of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. + + + + | + fin | <------ fin + | | | + | | | + | __|__ | + V / \ V + ---------------| |--------------- + \_____/ + |o <----------- segment of plastic straw + | + | + | <------ fin + | + | + + By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a +launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is +simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic +straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one +illustated on the following page: + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + ____ + / \ + | | + cut here _____ | + | | + | | + | / \ + V / \ + _________________/ \________________ + / \ + / \ + /____________________________________________\ + ^ + | + | + and here ______| + + + Bend wire to this shape: + + + _______ insert into straw + | + | + | + V + ____________________________________________ + \ + \ + \ + \ + \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle + | + | + | + | + | + | <---------- put this end in ground + | + + + +6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB + + + Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model +rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi- +stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an +engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge +explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" +engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning +particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. + This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of +weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as +travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat +differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly +straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is +accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the +center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the +rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: + + + + + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker + | | + | | + |___| + | | + | | + | | + | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine + /| 6 |\ + / | | | \ + / | 5 | \ + / |___| \ ---- fin + / /| |\ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | C | \ \ + | / | 6 | \ | + | / | | | \ | + | / | 0 | \ | + |/ |___| \| + | / \ | + \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin + | + | + | + | + C6-0 rocket engine + + + The fuse is put in the bottom engine. + + + Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it +a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the +fin area gets larger. + + + +6.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS + + + "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is +simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be +done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers +and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a +rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive +devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the +following page: + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + |___| + ___| |___ + | | | | + | | T | | + / \ | U | / \ + / \| B |/ \ + | || E || | + | C || || C | + | M || || M | + | ||___|| | + \___/| E |\___/ + | N | + /| G |\ + / | I | \ + / | N | \ + / | E | \ + / |___| \ + / fin/ | \ fin\ + | / | \ | + \__/ | \__/ + + ^ + |____ fin + + + The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape. +the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. +The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder. +Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted +in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that +its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom +engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the +coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it. + + + +6.2 CANNON + + + The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the +11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, +loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, +otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the +barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, +if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON + + + A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The +only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. +This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or +aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to +withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If +one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be +made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe +MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth +on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the +pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. +A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. +Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of +grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad +of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon +securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is +lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by +pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: + + __________________ fuse hole + | + | + V + ________________________________________________________________ + | |______________________________________________________________| + |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge + | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ + |_|______________________________________________________________| + + + An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 +cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and +construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the +cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for +a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue +paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, +and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in +about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this: + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + | | + | | + |\ /| + | | | ---- tape + |_|_| + | + | ------ fuse + + + + + + + + + + + + +6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON + + + A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the +only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly +further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the +initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further +than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble +a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this: + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + | | + | | + |___| + | E | + | N | + | G | + | I | + | N | + | E | + |___| + + + the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not +be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before +the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. +Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon +will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high +velocity. + + + +7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA + + + There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of +violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large +military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines. +Also, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display +rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the +ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which +consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running +through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive +high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful +to the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over +a large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +7.1 SMOKE BOMBS + + + One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in +many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, +or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to +produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a +building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the +military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, +such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. +Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. + + Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such +as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn +well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but +not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, +produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount +of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke +ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many +chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and +sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer +mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base +powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful +smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and +contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse +enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an +explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt +and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to +prevent an explosion. + + +7.2 COLORED FLAMES + + Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. +by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the +ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that +produce the different colors of flames appear below. + + +COLOR MATERIAL USED IN +ÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ +_______________________________________________________________________________ +red strontium road flares, + salts red sparklers + (strontium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +green barium salts green sparklers + (barium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +yellow sodium salts gold sparklers + (sodium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +blue powdered copper blue sparklers, + old pennies +_______________________________________________________________________________ +white powdered magnesium firestarters, + or aluminum aluminum foil +_______________________________________________________________________________ +purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, + treating sewage +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + + + + +7.3 TEAR GAS + + A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use +it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated +to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize +its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. + + EQUIPMENT + _________ + + 1. ring stands (2) + 2. alcohol burner + 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml + 4. clamps (2) + 5. rubber stopper + 6. glass tubing + 7. clamp holder + 8. condenser + 9. rubber tubing + 10. collecting flask + 11. air trap + 12. beaker, 300 ml + + + MATERIALS + _________ + + 10 gms glycerine + + 2 gms sodium bisulfate + + distilled water + + +1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms + of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. + +2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. + +3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. + +4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown + residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. Remove the + heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive. + +5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting + flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place. + + +7.4 FIREWORKS + + + While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, +they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several +basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, profit, +or nasty uses. + + + + + + + + + + +7.41 FIRECRACKERS + + + A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. +The instructions are below: + + 1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. + "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. + + 2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill + it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter + of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as + specified on the package. + + 3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and + insert a desired length of fuse. + + 4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash + powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, + nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures + will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top. + + 5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper + and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space + for more epoxy. + + 6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow + it to dry. + + 7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use + flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for + colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it + to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the + sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the + device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color + as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will + be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, + or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. + + Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode + with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, + I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material + inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely + powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this + material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER + MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND + EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of + 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler + material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil + I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight + outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't + react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount + of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the + firecracker. + + 8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, + professional to semi-professional displays can be produced. + + + + + + + + + +7.42 SKYROCKETS + + + An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from +model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. + + 1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering + that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) + + 2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly + fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper + and glue. + + 3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that + the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the + tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of + flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch. + + 4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, + various types of effects can be produced. + + 5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick + in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or + M.R.V.'s can be produced. + + 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with + the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. + + +7.43 ROMAN CANDLES + + Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult +to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are +well worth the trouble. + + 1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it + with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must + be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into + about 10 inch lengths. + + 2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy + and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. + + 3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, + and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that + the fuse fits tightly. + + 4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the + tube. + + 5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired + color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and + a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of + 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After + mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing + continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should + be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. + Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow + the ball to dry. + + + + + + + + 6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down + fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack + it gently against the ball with a pencil. + + 7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed + in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, + a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of + about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly + larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. + + 8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. + + 9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, + producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. + + + +8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION + + + Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained + through a public or university library. There are also many publications that +are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to +make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary +magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of +places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes +fireworks companies and the like. + + +COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS +ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ + + FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, + P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING + MURFREESBORO, TN + 37133 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE + BOX 1378-SN + HERMISTON, OREGON + 97838 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH + SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES + DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA + 18328 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, + 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES + P.O. BOX 226 + PORT HURON, MICHIGAN + 48060 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS + P.O. BOX 22927 + ROCHESTER, NEW YORK + 14692 + + + + + +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, + 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES + RENO, NEVADA + 89509 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS + BOX 1451 + JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN + 53547 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS + P.O. BOX 3504 + STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT + 06095 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS + BOX 581 + EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA + 19028 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS + 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD + RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN + 49878 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS + P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) + ROCHESTER, INDIANNA + 46975 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + +BOOKS +ÄÄÄÄÄ + +THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK + +THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL + +MILITARY EXPLOSIVES + +FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS + + In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she +wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the +chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order +of priority would probably resemble the following: + + LIQUIDS SOLIDS + _______ ______ + + ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate + ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate + ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) + ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate + ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium + ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum + + ____ Potassium Permanganate + ____ Sulfur + ____ Mercury + ____ Potassium Nitrate + ____ Potassium Hydroxide + ____ Phosphorus + ____ Sodium Azide + ____ Lead Acetate + ____ Barium Nitrate + + +10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY + + In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic +ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge +of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following +reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school +chemistry book. + + +1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide + K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O + 4 4 2 + +2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide + " + HNO ----> KNO + " + 3 3 + +3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " + 3 4 3 4 + +4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " + 3 3 3 3 + +5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium + +A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H + 3 2 + +B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al + 3 2 + + + + + + + The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container +which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and +sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high +explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess. + + +11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + + The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently attending +a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering. He was +raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school education +there. He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about eight years +of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was slightly +more powerful than a large firecracker. He continued to produce explosive +devices for several years. He also became interested in model rocketry, and has +built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets. While in high +school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became the +head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at age 18, he produced +his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an associate's +back yard. He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive ammunition, +and other pyrotechnic devices. While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro- +Technologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his hand; he +did not make the device. The author learned, however, and then decided to +reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive device, he +chooses to abstain from their production. An occasional rocket that produces +effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen in the +midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his favorite day +of the year. + + + Pax et Discordia, + + the Author + + +HERE ENDS THE FIRST PUBLICATION OF THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK. THIS IS THE ONLY +AUTHORIZED PUBLICATION, AND THE SOLE PRODUCTION RIGHTS BELONG TO CHAOS +INDUSTRIES AND GUNZENBOMZ PYRO-TECHNOLOGIES. diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/texasins.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/texasins.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..592f39f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/texasins.txt @@ -0,0 +1,123 @@ +< .cj +NITRIC ACID +.LJ + Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures, and acid delay timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid. +.cj +MATERIALS +.lj + Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume). + CONCENTRATED sulfuric acid (1 part by volume.) + Two bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks are preferable.) + Pot or frying pan. + Heat source (wood, coal, or charcoal.) + Tape (paper, electrical, masking, etc., but not cellophane.) + Paper or rags. + +Sources: Drug Store. Motor vehicle batteries, Industrial plants. + IMPORTANT: If sulfuric acid is obtained from a motor vehicle battery, concentrate it by boiling it until white fumes appear. DO NOT INHALE FUMES. + NOTE: The amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate. Thus, for 2 tablespoonsful of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoonsful of potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoonful of concentrated sulfuric acid. + +PROCEDURE: + 1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste is formed. + +CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. + + 2. Wrap paper or rages around necks of the 2 bottles. Securely tape necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that there are no air spaces. + + Paper and tape -\ +|------------\ | /------------| +| \___=======___/ | +| bottle A ___|||||||___ bottle B | +|=============/ ======= \ | +----------|--/ \------------| +|||||||| \-- Sulfuric acid |||||||| +||| ||| & Potassium Nitrate ||| ||| + \------ Supports ----------/ + +Bottle B should be slightly lower than bottle A, but not so low as to let the +paste to flow from A to B. + + 3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is SLIGHTLY lower that bottle containing past so that nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other bottle. + + 4. Build fire in pot or frying pan. + + 5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As red fume begin to appear periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle. + +CAUTION: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As an added precaution, place bottle to be heated in a heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel. Heat this outer container to produce nitric acid. + + /----------\ /- Tape Seal + | |-\ | /------------| + | | \___=======___/ | + | Can | ___|||||||___ bottle B | + ^| |==/ | ======= \ | + ^^| |-/ \-Bottle A \------------| + ^^^\----------/ |||||||| + FIRE ||||||| \-- Heat resistant |||rock| +\----/|| ||| container filled with ||| ||| + sand or gravel + + 6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat Steps 2-6. + + +CAUTION: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. + +Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a SEALED CERAMIC OR GLASS container. 03-31 +Cellulose Nitrate is known as smokeless powder. It doesn't take much time or +effort to make it and can be useful for use indoors where you don't want any +smoke left floating around the room. + +Materials +--------- +Concentrated Sulfuric Acid +Concentrated Nitric Acid +Absorbent Cotton +Sodium Bicarbonate +A 250ml Beaker +Ice Bath +Paper Towels +Tongs + +Procedure +--------- +Put the beaker in the ice bath. Add 70ml of Sulfuric Acid, and 30ml of +Nitric Acid. +Divide the cotton into 7/10 gram pieces. Use the tongs to submerge each +piece of the cotton into the acid solution for 1 minute. +Rinse each piece of cotton in 3 successive baths of water, each bath +containing 500ml of water. Use fresh water for each piece. +Now, immerse the cotton into 250ml of Sodium Bicarbonate. If it bubbles +rinse it in fresh water once more and contiue the procedure until no bubbling +occurs. +Squeeze each piece dry and put it on paper towels overnight. + +You already know what you are supposed to do with it now. Have fun... + +[bad boy in black] + +Have fun with this.. iI included the nitric ascid recipe because it is so hare d to get normally.. Alpine Kracker + + +Downloaded from Just Say Yes. 2 lines, More than 500 files online! + Full access on first call. 415-922-2008 CASFA + + + + + Another file downloaded from: + + ! + -$- & the Temple of the Screaming Electron + ! * Walnut Creek, CA + + /^ | + ! | |//^ _^_ 2400/1200/300 baud (415) 935-5845 + /^ / @ | /_-_ Jeff Hunter, Sysop + |@ _| @ @|- - -| + | | | /^ | _ | - - - - - - - - - * + |___/____|_|_|_(_)_| Aaaaaeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! / + + Specializing in conversations, E-Mail, obscure information, + entertainment, the arts, politics, futurism, thoughtful discussion, + insane speculation, and wild rumours. An ALL-TEXT BBS. + + "Raw data for raw minds." + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thandbook.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thandbook.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d8cd5d0e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thandbook.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4393 @@ + THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + +1.0 INTRODUCTION + + Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is +proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First and +foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities +for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The purpose +of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this +and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social goals. +The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be +carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one all the more +frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this information, +and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques herein SHOULD NOT BE +CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM +ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS MERELY +FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!! + +Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has some +idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is +the reason for the existence of this publication. + + + + + + +1.1 Table of Contents + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + +2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS +2.01 ........ Black Powder +2.02 ........ Pyrodex +2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder +2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder +2.05 ........ Flash Powder +2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS +2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks +2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY +2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS +2.31 ........ Nitric Acid +2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid +2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES +3.01 ........ Explosive Theory +3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES +3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals +3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate +3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine +3.14 ........ Picrates +3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.21 ........ Black Powder +3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose +3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures +3.24 ........ Perchlorates +3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES +3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) +3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate +3.33 ........ ANFOS +3.34 ........ T.N.T. +3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate +3.36 ........ Dynamite +3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives +3.38 ........ Picric Acid +3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) +3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride +3.41 ........ Lead Azide +3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" +3.51 ........ Thermit +3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails +3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle +3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives +4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES +4.1 ....... SAFETY +4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES +4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition +4.22 ........ Impact Ignition +4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition +4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition +4.241 ....... Mercury Switches +4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches +4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators +4.3 ....... DELAYS +4.31 ........ Fuse Delays +4.32 ........ Timer Delays +4.33 ........ Chemical Delays + + + + + + +4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS +4.41 ........ Paper Containers +4.42 ........ Metal Containers +4.43 ........ Glass Containers +4.44 ........ Plastic Containers +4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES +4.51 ........ Shaped Charges +4.52 ........ Tube Explosives +4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions +4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs +4.55 ........ Book Bombs +4.56 ........ Phone Bombs +5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS +5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) +5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition +5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition +5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition +5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) +5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition +5.22 ........ Shotguns +5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) +5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition +5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition +6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS +6.1 ....... ROCKETS +6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb +6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb +6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs +6.2 ........ CANNONS +6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon +6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon +7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA +7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs +7.2 ......... Colored Flames +7.3 ......... Tear Gas +7.4 ......... Fireworks +7.41 ........ Firecrackers +7.42 ........ Skyrockets +7.43 ........ Roman Candles +8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION +9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS +10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY +11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS + + Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and +a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in +order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something +about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, +is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each +different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder +depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of +powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: +the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. + + +2.01 BLACK POWDER + + + Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, +the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely +important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in +a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is +desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along +with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, +the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other +grades and uses are listed below: + + + GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN + ŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles + FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles + FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers + + + The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has +more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger +grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of +black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected +by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer +grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be +ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to +absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic +spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would +apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes +or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine +as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes +to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 +foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can +own black powder firearms in America. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +2.02 PYRODEX + + + Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes +in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound +container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black +powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and +it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will +not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined +to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the +same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried. + + +2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER + + One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is +the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are +composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by +a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube +lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the +grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is +usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally +hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the widest +setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, +the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to +all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. +Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly +powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come +in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are +perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they +can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder. + + +2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER + + Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle +standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be +referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the +action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is +then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When +dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of +black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly +compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder +burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. +Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants +is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any +idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the +U.S. + + +2.05 FLASH POWDER + + + Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various +oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated +with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is +sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very +finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The +fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. + + + + + + It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot +white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. +It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. + + +2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + + Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as +a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite +with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is +touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation +will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high +explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of +nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the +"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" +consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the +ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the +outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in +a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it +tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many +fertilizers. + + +2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS + + + The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section +deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. +Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the +labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter +lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and +most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears +a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone +asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking +for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department +other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various +labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There +are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as +placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back +exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before +this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a +lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the +cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never +know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one +plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the +actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know +when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if +none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a +rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another +person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an +odd hour. + + +2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS + + + If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's +most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are +unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these +methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. + + + + + +These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, +but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule +here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several +devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental +tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket- +knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these +tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch +out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding +whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out +from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum +can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged +ends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a +single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the +strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 +inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, +or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this: + + + (1) + + _________________________________________________________ v +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | +1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | + ^ + + Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of +aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped +device that looks like this: + __________________________________________ + / ________________________________________| + | | + | | L-shaped + | | + | | + |_| + + _____________________________ + / ___________________________| + | | + | | J-shaped + | | + | |________ + \________| + + _____________________ + / ___________________| + | | + | | + | | U-shaped + | | + | |____________________ + \____________________| + + + All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and +pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between +the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made +properly. + + + + + + +2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY + + Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, +and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous +compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some +money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. + + +Chemical Used In Available at +________ _______ ____________ + +_____________________________________________________________________________ +alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores + solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven +_____________________________________________________________________________ +ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, +nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores +____________________________________________________________________________ +lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store +_____________________________________________________________________________ +charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store +_____________________________________________________________________________ +cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, +_____________________________________________________________________________ +fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, +_____________________________________________________________________________ +bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, +_____________________________________________________________________________ +potassium permanganate water purification purification plants +_____________________________________________________________________________ +hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores +methenamine (camping) +_____________________________________________________________________________ +nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops + plates photography stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +iodine & first aid drug stores +_____________________________________________________________________________ +sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores + for cutting torches +_____________________________________________________________________________ + + + + + +notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a + solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be + at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. + Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + + + + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The + pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear + ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. + + + @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They + may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury + switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a + hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or + mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will + cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea + not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not + get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. + + + ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually + stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later + section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. + + + & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline + form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. + To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's + prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the + means that terrorists result to. + + +2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS + +2.31 NITRIC ACID + + + There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for + explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once + again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! + + Materials: Equipment: + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source + potassium nitrate + retort + distilled water + ice bath + concentrated + sulfuric acid stirring rod + + collecting flask with stopper + + +1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. + +2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium +nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, +carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. + + + + + + +3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the + collecting flask in the ice bath. + +4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid + begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric + acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, + or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too + strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This + can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may + explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get + away from it. + + + Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, +simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out +the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be +necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of +boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel +into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and +sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of +water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. + + +2.32 SULFURIC ACID + + Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or +industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. +A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car +battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be +pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, +either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can +also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster +than clean motor oil. + + +2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order +explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large +flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask +and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have +stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place +until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. +There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must +be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from +the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY +gently to drive off the remaining water. + + +3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES + + Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE +ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS +TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT +OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. + + These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual +could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually +scaled-down industrial procedures. + + + + + + + +3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY + + An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, +undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that +is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down +into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece +of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are +displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater +than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the +mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order +explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which +may do both. + + High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high +order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes +through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart +the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately +equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high +explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks +apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses. +T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives. + + Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. +when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and +gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under +pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder, +which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they +are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn +much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions. +Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order +explosives. + + Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as +mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are +usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low +explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they +are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined, +they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. +Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, +a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently +used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by +the detonation of its primer. + + +3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES + + Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed +here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium +triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no +light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even +the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. + + +3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS + + Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals +that decompose under the slightest + +amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they +are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such +crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks +across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps +and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or + + + + + +heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine +gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that +the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine +in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It +leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. +Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the +ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on +the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously +washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, +a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw +several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly +injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that +not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide +crystals could be produced in the following manner: + + Materials Equipment + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + iodine crystals funnel and filter paper + + paper towels + clear ammonia + (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars + for the suicidal) + + +1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars + must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. + +2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. + +3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. + The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic + chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle + is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved + side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone + into the funnel. + +4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the + solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. + +5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar + to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. + +6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, + and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that + they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could + well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about + eight chunks. + +7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of + duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape + together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. + Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and + store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of + about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be + thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which + gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One + possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight + containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them + where they will be stepped on or crushed. + + + + + + +3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE + + + Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating +compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it +of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of +the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would +probably use the following procedure: + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod + + concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2) + acid (35 ml) + adjustable heat + ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source + + distilled water blue litmus paper + + funnel and filter paper + + + +1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, + using the glass rod. + +2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the + solution turns green and boils. + +3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully + add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes + should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. + +4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that + the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the + distilled water to the solution. + +5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid + solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive + and toxic. + +6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess + acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are + neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the + wet crystals + +7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from + any explosive or flammable material. + + + This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury + cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of + ethanol to every one volume of mercury. + + + + + + + + +3.13 NITROGLYCERINE + + Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not +the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. +Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to +make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the +all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is +converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts +to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: + + + MATERIAL EQUIPMENT + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + distilled water eye-dropper + + table salt 100 ml beaker + + sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) + + concentrated nitric ice bath container + acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) + + concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer + acid (39 ml) + blue litmus paper + glycerine + + +1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. + +2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about + a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate + dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some + remains undissolved. + +3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and + adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall + temperature. + +4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated + nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill + into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker + when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath + container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 + degrees centigrade or less. + +5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the + 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids + together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good + idea to start another ice bath to do this. + +6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop + at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed + acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 + DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN + LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the + temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a + thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to + make any explosive in small quantities. + + + + + + +7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, + adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution + in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the + nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the + concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. + +8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 + degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine + and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The + nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid + solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the + acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine. + +9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it + into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate + much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less + likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine + with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if + necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. + +10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean + container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is + far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. + Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored + in a secure cool place. + + +3.14 PICRATES + + Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or +trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they +are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with +metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the +water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, +and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range +molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, +and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive. + +3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun +stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise +wise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking +individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making +his own low-order explosives. + + +3.21 BLACK POWDER + + + First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first +used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, +but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is +converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine +burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by +static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be +made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could +manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: + + + + + + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium clay grinding bowl + nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder + + or or + + sodium wooden salad bowl + nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon + + sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) + + charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) + + distilled water coffee pot or heat source + + +1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl + and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or + sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. + +2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a + separate plastic bag. + +3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and + add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. + +4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium + nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no + more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. + +5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight + is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it + is hot enough to evaporate the water. + +6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. + Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black + powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static + electricity. + + +3.22 NITROCELLULOSE + + Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more +stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It +also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. +Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following +procedure: + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers + + concentrated funnel and filter paper + nitric acid + blue litmus paper + concentrated + sulfuric acid + + distilled water + + + + + +1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this + 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid. + +2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 + minutes. + +3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water + to wash it in. + +4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. + +5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to + be dried and stored. + + +3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES + + There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can +be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective +and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working +fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each +compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be +given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: + + + + oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ + potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact + sensitive; unstable +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; + charcoal 15% unstable +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely + magnesium or unstable! + aluminum dust 25% +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable + aluminum dust 33% +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable + sulfur 5% burn rate +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before + ignition depends + WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable + magnesium or + aluminum dust 20% +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is + sulfur 10% black powder! +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot + or magnesium 40% + + + + + + oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes +================================================================================ + potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- + sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for + and small amount of space shuttle + iron oxide +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate +(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder + sulfur 20% +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate + potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate + aluminum dust 5% flash powder +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly + magnesium or unstable + aluminum dust 25% +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable + calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; + aluminum or ignites if + magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable + sulfur 10% +================================================================================ + +NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium + perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. + + The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns +AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of +burning. + + As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures +that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), +different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity +of the mixture. + + +3.24 PERCHLORATES + + As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid +will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or +sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can +be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium +perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or +potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated +with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react +explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium +hydroxide are ideal. + + + + + +3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES + + High order explosives can be made in the home without too much +difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high +explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is +made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) +molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a +material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the +nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in +a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based +explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, +several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. + + + +3.31 R.D.X. + + R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with +plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is +because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to +detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too +severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, +but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the +surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the +home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium +nitrate. + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + hexamine 500 ml beaker + or + methenamine glass stirring rod + fuel tablets (50 g) + funnel and filter paper + concentrated + nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container + (plastic bucket) + distilled water + centigrade thermometer + table salt + blue litmus paper + ice + + ammonium nitrate + +1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully + pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. + +2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of + the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it + must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result. + Stir the mixture. + +3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice + and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium + nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is + put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below + zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes + + + + + + +4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, + and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and + dispose of the corrosive liquid. + +5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter + the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 + until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable + and safe. + +6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely + using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. + +7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% + mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic + bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive. + +8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. + it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. + +9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should + be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium + nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could + also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X. + +10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a + density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. + + +3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE + + Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap- +hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, +since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive +to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a +drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium +nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather +powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The +diagram below will explain. + + _________________________________________ + | | | + ________| | | + | | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate | + |primer |booster| | + |_______| | | + | | | + |_______|_______________________________| + + The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending + a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. + + +3.33 ANFOS + + ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO +solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick +up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate +when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) +ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium +nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large +shockwave to set it off. + + + + + +3.34 T.N.T. + + + T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high +explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known +high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It +is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well +known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is +designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the +product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one +step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very +strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very +strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, +and it is filtered. + + + +3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE + + + Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be +obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of +vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the +material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, +however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making +such an explosive is outlined below: + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + + potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag + (9 parts, by volume) + + petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl + (vaseline) or + (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon + + + +1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, + until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is + powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. + +2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the + plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. + put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. + +3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium + chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, + add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. + +4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to + greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, + is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. + + + + + + + + + +3.36 DYNAMITE + + The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. +Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was +made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided +individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) +would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various +materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large +weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate +could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase +the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. + + + +3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES + + + Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All +that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric +and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of +concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold +water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. +Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are +more readily detonated. + + + +3.38 PICRIC ACID + + + Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military +explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less +sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple +to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric +acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab +manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its +tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as +potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such +as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably +use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid. + + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask + + concentrated adjustable heat source + sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) + 1000 ml beaker + concentrated nitric or other container + acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in + + distilled water filter paper + and funnel + + glass stirring rod + + + + + + + +1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 + ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. + +2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and + bring the water to a gentle boil. + +3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling + water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty + minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for + about five minutes. + +4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to + cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, + steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice + bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the + mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When + the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. + +5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap + water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat + it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. + +6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice + bath until it is cold. + +7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution + through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it + in a safe place, since it is corrosive. + +8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the + filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. + +9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. + +10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will + react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode + spontaneously. + + +3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE + + + Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. +It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that +required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since +it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal +containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia. +All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and +dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in +excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should +be ammonium picrate. + + +3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE + + + Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow +liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or +when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to +produce. + + + + + + +1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. + Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it + remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. + +2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric + acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass + pipe. + +3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the + beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers + together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow + droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down + to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. + + Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate + solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires + timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. + + The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently + heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes + from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating + flask in another flask that contains water. + +4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, + since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. + + +3.41 LEAD AZIDE + + Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for +other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive +explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it +is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is +simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. + + By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate +beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers +together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate +solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the +beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in +hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. +If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead +metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. + + +3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" + + The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can +be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials +presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. + +3.51 THERMIT + + Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous +amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react +nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely +powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from +the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a +combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by +an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited, +it is one of the most effective firestarters around. + + + + + + MATERIALS + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + powdered aluminum (10 g) + + powdered iron oxide (10 g) + + +1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply + mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as + possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and + be made in greater or lesser amounts. + +2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of + potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid + on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The + other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by + using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture + can be ignited. + + +3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS + + + First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now +exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and +can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such +as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, +turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass +bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable +liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid +in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth +around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to +light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth +does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle +will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame. +Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more +volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture +such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, +and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this +must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown + + + +3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE + + The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather +than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best +a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very +hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the +container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the +paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the +acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance +of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if +there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. + + + + + + + + + + + + MATERIALS EQUIPMENT + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + potassium chlorate glass bottle + (2 teaspoons) (12 oz.) + + sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, + with plastic inside + + concentrated cooking pan with raised + sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges + + gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels + + glass or plastic cup + and spoon + + + +1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure + that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the + acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until + a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. + +2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. + +3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. + Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on + the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside + to dry. + +4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of + sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, + or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. + +5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold + the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium + chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to + dry. + +6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing + the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the + bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle + in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. + +7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct + liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution + on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, + simply throw it at any hard surface. + +8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH + COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, + CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. + +9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, + and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should + immediately burst into a white flame. + + + + + + + + + +3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES + + + Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane +stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To +make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be +to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other +gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and +on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to +the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas +would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large +fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container +often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By +using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition +are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the +canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would +probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, +since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the +gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, +hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely. + + + +4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES + + + Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to +apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism, +to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER +IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! + The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would +be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had +to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would +also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine +where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see +if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or +moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive +device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section. + + +4.1 SAFETY + + There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak +in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. + + +4.2 IGNITION DEVICES + + There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic +"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive +mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation +systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more +appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical +detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device +with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide. + + + + + + + + + +4.21 FUSE IGNITION + + + The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite +type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in +a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is +extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is +available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for +a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because +of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. + Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses +fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be +acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not +just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does +not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. +One such method is described below: + + + MATERIALS + _________ + + strike-on-cover type matches + + electrical tape or duct tape + + waterproof fuse + +1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a + 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the + start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when + the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and + you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown + below: + + Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time + of combustion is 20 seconds. + + + + 20 seconds + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ = 2.5 seconds per inch. + 8 inches + + + If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired + time by the number of seconds per inch: + + 10 seconds + ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ = 4 inches + 2.5 seconds / inch + +NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, + AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA + INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! + + +2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is + to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and + cut it off. + + + + + + +3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not + pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard + base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one + to make a second igniter. + +4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches + touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not + to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling + on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move. + +5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making + sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces + the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. + Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave + enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. + + _____________________ + \ / + \ / ------ match book cover + \ / + | M|f|M ---|------- match head + | A|u|A | + | T|s|T | + | C|e|C | + |tapeH|.|Htape| + | |f| | + |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper + |#####|s|#####| + \ |e| / + \ |.| / + \ |f| / + \ |u| / + |ta|s|pe| + |ta|e|pe| + |.| + |f| + |u| + |s| + |e| + |.| + |_| + + + The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. + The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the + matcheads when the match book is pulled. + +6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the + striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. + In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the + burning match heads. + + + +4.22 IMPACT IGNITION + + Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous +terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it +must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being +transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a +removable impact initiator. + + + + + + The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory +made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such +primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such +a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples +are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a +package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes +all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the +cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: + + ________________ + | | + _ | + | | | + _______| |^^^^^^^^| | + | ___________| | + | | | + no. 11 |_______| | + percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing + cap here | | | nipple onto bomb + | |___________ | + |_______ | | + | |^^^^^^^^^| | + |_| | + | + |________________| + + + When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into +whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed +into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed +on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount +before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The +only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must +strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small +parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, +should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with +mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it +strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person +carrying the bomb is bumped hard. + +4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION + + Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and +most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition +work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools +of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", +comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get +hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device +will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less +than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or +if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters +are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction +also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost +about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two +wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, +but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run +through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs +can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium +chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black +powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order +explosive. + + + + + +4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION + + Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of +mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of +switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person +who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it +explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed + + +4.241 Mercury Switches + + Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal +conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at +room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with +two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's +nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help +to explain a mercury switch. + + ______________ + A / \ B + _____wire +______/___________ \ + \ ( Hg ) | / + \ _(_Hg_)__|___/ + | + | + wire - | + | + | + + When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both +contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in +its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can +touch both contacts in the horizontal position. + If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only +touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury +does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. + This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in +the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door +would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. +This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to +touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the +igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it +slammed in your face by an explosion. + + +4.242 Tripwire Switches + + A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly +invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and +by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. +If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a +tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of +a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, +and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can +be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the +contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the +tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to +flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, +which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between +the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it +it to explode. + + + + + + + __________________________________ + \_foil___________________________/ + Insert strip of ----------------------------spring + wood with trip- _foil__________________________ + wire between foil /_______________________________\ + contacts. + + +Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since +the spring also conducts electricity. + + +4.243 Radio Control Detonators + + + In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled +detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be +several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, +in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators +is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that +a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio +control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to +devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store +or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, +all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the +motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the +elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the +squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The +device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully +charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part +that used to move parts before the device became a detonator). + + +4.3 DELAYS + + A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is +set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would +cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with +the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to +be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it +does. + + +4.31 FUSE DELAYS + + It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for +ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average +cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, +the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker +than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to +go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in +a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of +a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough +oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses +will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure +they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate +is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way +through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing +the fuse for a device in the hole formed. + + + + + + + + + |=| + |=| ---------- filter + |=| + | | + | | + |o| ---------- hole for fuse + cigarette ------------ | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + | | + |_| ---------- light this end + + + + A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet +of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with +powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a +fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused +with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with +powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of +charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks +of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first +brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply +store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse +about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible. + Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the +home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of +boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all +cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, +it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the +end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black +powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the +slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of +slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black +powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper +is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is +allowed to dry. + + + +4.32 TIMER DELAYS + + + Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who +wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location +and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place +if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. +By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, +and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be +made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less +than an hour is desired. + + + + + + + + + + ___________________________________ to igniter from igniter + | | + | 12 | : : + | 11 1 | : : + | | : : + | 10 2 | : : + | o................|......: : + | | : + | 9 3 | : + | | : + | | : + | 8 4 | : + | o.........|...... : + | 7 5 | : : + | 6 | :.+.....-.....: + |__________________________________| __|_____| + | | + | battery | + o - contacts | | + ..... - wire | | + |___________| + + This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of the +clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit, +allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib. + + The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set + for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in +an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing +the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or +igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize +this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into. +All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, +connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic +watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the +watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer +could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would +be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from +the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib +would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that +would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or +electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would +not have to be stepped up. + + +4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS + + + Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in +some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, +and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat +through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum +foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be +open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is +forming does not break the container. See diagram on following page. + + + + + + + + + + + _ _ + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |_____________| | + | | | | + | | sulfuric | | + | | | | + | | acid | | + | | | |---------- aluminum foil + | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) + |_________________| + + + The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured +there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used +to ignite an explosive device in several ways. + + 1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that + eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed + underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, + a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the + wires are immersed in the acid. + + 2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If + the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, + the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be + used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter + for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 + ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for + the rest of the thermit. + + 3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. + + + +4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS + + + This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to +a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which +are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. + + +4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS + + + Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was +first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very +simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses +for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers +and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it +together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and +dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of +Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their +manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet +of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so +that it looks like this: + + + + + + + ________________________________________________________ + | |\ + | | \ + | | \ + |______________________________________________________|___\ + + and then fold it again so that it looks like this: + + _______________________________________________________ + | /| + | / | + | / | + |__________________________________________________/___| + + A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex, +flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel- +oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then +inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill +out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped +together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container, +and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished +polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one +shown below: + + + ^ + / \ ----- securely tape all corners + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \ + / \____________________________ + /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse + + + + +4.42 METAL CONTAINERS + + + The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained +explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match +heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- +tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills +the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause +enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the +unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the +less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would +buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in +one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder +will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long +inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly, +possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then +pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take a +large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the +powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil +or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, he +would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help +prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe +cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder, +causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2. + + + + + + + _________ _______________ __________ + | | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | | + | |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | ___________________________ | | + | | | | | | + | |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| | + |_______| |________| + + fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps. + + + + ________ ________ + | _____|________________________________|_____ | + | |__________________________________________| | + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| + | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- + | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse + | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | + | |________|_________________________________| | + | |__________________________________________| | + |______| |______| + + endcap pipe endcap + w/ hole + + fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. + + + This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, +he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a +piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable +position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding +it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper +pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb +out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. +First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure +not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded +over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be +drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. +Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack +it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other +end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this +slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which +could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: + + ________ + _______________________________________________/ | + | | + | o | + |______________________________________________ | + \_______| + + fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) + + + + + + + + ______ + ____________________________________________/ | | + | | | + | o | | + |___________________________________________ | | + \__|__| + + fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) + + ____________ fuse hole + | + v + _________________________________________________ + | \ |____ | + | \____| | + | ______| + | / + |_____________________________/__________________ + + fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) + + _________________ fuse + / + | + ________ ______________________________|___ _______ + | ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ | + | |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| | + |________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______| + \ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - / + \_____________________________________/ + + + fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive + (side view) + + + + + A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for +a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming +to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge +with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the +CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel- +oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called +"crater makers". + + A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary +device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so +that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The +fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the +thermit. + The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for +low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the +latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller +low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order +explosive would probably be used. It would look something like: + + + + + + + + + + _______________________ fuse + | + | + | + _________ | _________ + | ____|__________________________|___________|____ | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | + | | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | | + | | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | | + | | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | | + | | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | | + | | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | + | |______________________________________________| | + |_______| |_______| + + + If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, +then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, +which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. + +4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS + + + Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there +are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively +easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the +not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would +probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of +a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he +still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of +his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... + + Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by +a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal +detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill +the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly +in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. + + + ________________________ fuse + | + | + | + _____|_____ + | ___|___ | + | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; + | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap + | > | < | + | | | + | | + | | + | | screw cap on bottle + | | + | | + V V + + + + + + _________ + < > + < > + < > + / \ + / \ + / \ + | | fill bottle with low-order explosive + | | + | | + | | + | | + |___________| + + + Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, +since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive +that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger +than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for +high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand +the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was +able to detonate. + + + +4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS + + + Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since +they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping +can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones +used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with +plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not +detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by +heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be +glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used +as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a +drying agent works best in this type of device. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + || || + || || + ||\_____________/|| + || || + || epoxy || + ||_______________|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||***************|| + ||** explosive **|| + ||***************|| + ||***********----------------------- fuse + ||***************|| + ||ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ|| + || || + || tissue || + || paper || + ||_______________|| + || || + || epoxy || + || _____________ || + ||/ \|| + || || + || || + + + One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the +device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue +paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe +works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an +inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used +int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. + + + + +4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES + + + The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person +who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this +information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. Advanced +uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount +of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve high- +order explosives. + + +4.51 SHAPED CHARGES + + + A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs +the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be +used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds +of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order +explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL +EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! + + + + + + An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + + + + wire ________ _______ - wire + | | + | | + | | + _ _________|_________|____________ + ^ | ________|_________|__________ | + | | | | | | | + | | | \ igniter / | | + | | | \_______/ | | + | | | priming charge | | + | | | (mercury fulminate) | | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | / \ | | + 8 inches high | | / \ | | + | | / high \ | | + | | | / explosive \ | | + | | | / charge \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | | | ^ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | + | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch + | | | / \ | | thick steel + | | | / \ | | pipe + | | | / \ | | + | | |/ \| | + | hole for | | | | hole for + | screw | | | | screw + | | | | | + V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ + |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| + + |<------- 8 inches -------->| + + If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would +direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening +of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the +explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device +such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful +electromagnet. + + + + + + + + + + +4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES + + + A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that +shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with +a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive +container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced; +a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of +explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole. +The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever +it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like +this: + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + || || + || || + ||\____/|| + || epoxy|| + ||______|| + || || + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||______|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || RDX || + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + ||******|| + || ____ || + || | s| || + || | q| || + || | u| || + || | i| || + || | b| || + || | b| || + || |__| || + ||__||__|| + ||tissue|| + || paper|| + ||__||__|| + || || || + || epoxy|| + || || || + || _||_ || + ||/ || \|| + || || || + || || || + ||_______ + wire ______________ + | + |________ - wire ______________ + + + + + + + When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap +it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube +bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, +and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. + + + +4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS + + + If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small +particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion +similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The +tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, +pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and +ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push +the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle +explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly +flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, +or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be +extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon +jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge +was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this +occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely +occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish +this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead +of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high +explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion +does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material. + + + + +4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS + + + + An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the +light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead +light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes +with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the +lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a +lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must +be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue +gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other +bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or +oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked +in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case, +once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the +bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the +glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base +with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient +to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the +socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be +done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been +used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the +room for a bomb without first turning on the light. + + + + + + + + + +4.55 BOOK BOMBS + + + Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where +perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched +by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend +to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is +called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of +a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of +the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law +books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual +makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for +the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a +book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping +saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring +an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling +the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will +hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution +has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, +the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each +page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of +the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. +Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice +works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must +be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. +Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a +rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell +of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this: + + + ________________________ + | ____________________ | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | | + | |__________________| | + |______________________| + + (book covers omitted) + + + This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. +After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled +variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever +timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling +or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has +been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its +destination. + + + + + + + + + + +4.56 PHONE BOMBS + + + The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past +to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the +person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high +explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the +current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the +high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is +acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece +cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. +Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver, +and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1. +Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whom +the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and +remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that +the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the +phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable +that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes... + + +5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS + + + Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social +deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over +individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to +kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from crossbows +to shotguns. + + +5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS + + + For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive +that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This +means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. + + + +5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION + + + Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is +extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter +to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum +piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire +segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates +upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tube +of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and +epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high- +order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece +of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making +sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and +secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical +or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting +goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: + + + + + + + + + + _____ + | | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap + ||*|| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| ----------- aluminum piping + |*| + |e| + |x| + |p| + |l| + |o| + |s| + |i| + |v| + |e| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + |*| + /|_|\ + / |t| \ + | |p| | + | |_| | + | |e| | -------- fins + | |p| | + | |y| | + |_|_|_| + |_| + + + tp: tissue paper + + epy: epoxy + + When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap +explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive. + + +5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS + + + The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. +A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive +or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile +is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use +of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. +Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the +capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional +high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, +if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would +be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end +containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive +struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch +long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this: + + + + + + ____________________ + /mercury | \----------------------- + (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels + \________|___________/----------------------- + + + + +5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS + + + A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter +marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well +be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the +relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the +wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. +A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device +by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe +could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would +be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse +was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it +reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that +are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for +wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of +their light weight. + + + + +5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS + + + When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and +rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with +a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be +difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There +is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition +is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the +slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For +this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. + + +5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS + + + If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her +handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive +explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, +and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole +in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of +an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed +in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed +exploding bullet is shown below. + + _o_ ------------ drop of wax + /|*|\ + | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive + | |_| | + |_____| + + This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. + + + + + +5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS + + Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create +some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun +shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. +Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to +the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun- +launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the +shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches +away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide +what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a +chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb +(sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to +the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or +incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device +has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile +is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun +projectile is shown below: + + + + + ____ + || | + || | + || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel + || | + ||__| + || | + || | ------- fuse + || | + || + || + || + || --------- dowel + || + || + || + || + || + || --------- insert this end into shotgun + + + + +5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS + + + This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for +compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, +and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids +toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS + + + A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or +pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber +of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle +velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber +projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a +caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use +primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun +stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers +detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if +they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit +in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they +will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is +attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the +tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A +diagram of such a projectile appears below: + + + _____ primers _______ + | | + | | + | | + V V + ______ ______ + | ________________________ |------------------- + | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or + | ________________________ |------------------- cotton + |_____ _____|------------------- + ^ + | + | + |_______ antenna tubing + + The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. +The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. +Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to +insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile +should be about 3/4 of an inch long. + + + +5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS + + + A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at +close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be +adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in +section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. +Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have +to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since +there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, +but anything larger will do nicely. + + + + + + + + + + + + +6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS + + + Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. +Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are +difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. +Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things. +A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear. + + + +6.1 ROCKETS + + + Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years +before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. +They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, +expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used +constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. +Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they +can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space +age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of +Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their +most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; +enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. +Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which +develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, +and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have +three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them. + + + __________________________________________________________ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing + \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| + ______ _ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| + / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| + /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ + |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard + casing + + + The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled +"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a +propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, +rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. +After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is +ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that +has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, +white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen +when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it +ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely +powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The +explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. +It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... + + + + + + + + + + + + Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine +labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an +indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" +engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The +number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. +the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust +period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a +3 second delay. + + +NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum + dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. + The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. + + + +6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB + + + A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered +to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device +would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa +wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a +basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 +cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of +the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge +of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb +should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. + + + ____________ rocket engine + | _________ crater maker + | | + | | + V | + _______________________________V_ + |_______________________________| ______________________ + \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ + \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ + __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) + / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / + /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ + |_______________________________| + + + thrust> - - - - - - + smoke> *** + ejection charge> :::: + + + Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket +engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge +Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such +as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. + + + + Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that +the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: + + + + + + |\ + | \ + | \ + | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine + | \ + | \ + | \ + | | + | | + | | + leading edge | + -------> | + | | + | | trailing edge + | | <-------- + | | + | | + | | + | | + \_____/ + + + The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so +that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two +inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it +from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of +a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins +of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. + + + + | + fin | <------ fin + | | | + | | | + | __|__ | + V / \ V + ---------------| |--------------- + \_____/ + |o <----------- segment of plastic straw + | + | + | <------ fin + | + | + + By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a +launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is +simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic +straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one +illustated on the following page: + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + ____ + / \ + | | + cut here _____ | + | | + | | + | / \ + V / \ + _________________/ \________________ + / \ + / \ + /____________________________________________\ + ^ + | + | + and here ______| + + + Bend wire to this shape: + + + _______ insert into straw + | + | + | + V + ____________________________________________ + \ + \ + \ + \ + \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle + | + | + | + | + | + | <---------- put this end in ground + | + + + +6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB + + + Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model +rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi- +stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an +engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge +explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" +engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning +particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. + This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of +weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as +travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat +differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly +straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is +accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the +center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the +rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: + + + + + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker + | | + | | + |___| + | | + | | + | | + | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine + /| 6 |\ + / | | | \ + / | 5 | \ + / |___| \ ---- fin + / /| |\ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | | \ \ + / / | C | \ \ + | / | 6 | \ | + | / | | | \ | + | / | 0 | \ | + |/ |___| \| + | / \ | + \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin + | + | + | + | + C6-0 rocket engine + + + The fuse is put in the bottom engine. + + + Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it +a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the +fin area gets larger. + + + +6.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS + + + "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is +simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be +done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers +and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a +rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive +devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the +following page: + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + |___| + ___| |___ + | | | | + | | T | | + / \ | U | / \ + / \| B |/ \ + | || E || | + | C || || C | + | M || || M | + | ||___|| | + \___/| E |\___/ + | N | + /| G |\ + / | I | \ + / | N | \ + / | E | \ + / |___| \ + / fin/ | \ fin\ + | / | \ | + \__/ | \__/ + + ^ + |____ fin + + + The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape. +the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. +The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder. +Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted +in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that +its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom +engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the +coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it. + + + +6.2 CANNON + + + The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the +11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, +loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, +otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the +barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, +if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON + + + A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The +only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. +This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or +aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to +withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If +one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be +made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe +MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth +on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the +pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. +A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. +Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of +grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad +of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon +securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is +lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by +pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: + + __________________ fuse hole + | + | + V + ________________________________________________________________ + | |______________________________________________________________| + |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge + | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ + |_|______________________________________________________________| + + + An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 +cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and +construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the +cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for +a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue +paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, +and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in +about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this: + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + | | + | | + |\ /| + | | | ---- tape + |_|_| + | + | ------ fuse + + + + + + + + + + + + +6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON + + + A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the +only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly +further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the +initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further +than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble +a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this: + + + ___ + / \ + | | + | C | + | M | + | | + | | + |___| + | E | + | N | + | G | + | I | + | N | + | E | + |___| + + + the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not +be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before +the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. +Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon +will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high +velocity. + + + +7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA + + + There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of +violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large +military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines. +Also, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display +rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the +ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which +consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running +through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive +high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful +to the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over +a large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +7.1 SMOKE BOMBS + + + One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in +many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, +or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to +produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a +building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the +military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, +such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. +Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. + + Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such +as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn +well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but +not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, +produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount +of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke +ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many +chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and +sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer +mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base +powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful +smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and +contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse +enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an +explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt +and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to +prevent an explosion. + + +7.2 COLORED FLAMES + + Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. +by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the +ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that +produce the different colors of flames appear below. + + +COLOR MATERIAL USED IN +ŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ +_______________________________________________________________________________ +red strontium road flares, + salts red sparklers + (strontium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +green barium salts green sparklers + (barium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +yellow sodium salts gold sparklers + (sodium nitrate) +_______________________________________________________________________________ +blue powdered copper blue sparklers, + old pennies +_______________________________________________________________________________ +white powdered magnesium firestarters, + or aluminum aluminum foil +_______________________________________________________________________________ +purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, + treating sewage +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + + + + +7.3 TEAR GAS + + A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use +it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated +to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize +its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. + + EQUIPMENT + _________ + + 1. ring stands (2) + 2. alcohol burner + 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml + 4. clamps (2) + 5. rubber stopper + 6. glass tubing + 7. clamp holder + 8. condenser + 9. rubber tubing + 10. collecting flask + 11. air trap + 12. beaker, 300 ml + + + MATERIALS + _________ + + 10 gms glycerine + + 2 gms sodium bisulfate + + distilled water + + +1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms + of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. + +2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. + +3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. + +4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown + residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. Remove the + heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive. + +5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting + flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place. + + +7.4 FIREWORKS + + + While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, +they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several +basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, profit, +or nasty uses. + + + + + + + + + + +7.41 FIRECRACKERS + + + A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. +The instructions are below: + + 1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. + "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. + + 2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill + it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter + of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as + specified on the package. + + 3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and + insert a desired length of fuse. + + 4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash + powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, + nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures + will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top. + + 5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper + and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space + for more epoxy. + + 6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow + it to dry. + + 7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use + flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for + colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it + to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the + sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the + device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color + as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will + be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, + or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. + + Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode + with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, + I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material + inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely + powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this + material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER + MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND + EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of + 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler + material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil + I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight + outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't + react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount + of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the + firecracker. + + 8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, + professional to semi-professional displays can be produced. + + + + + + + + + +7.42 SKYROCKETS + + + An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from +model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. + + 1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering + that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) + + 2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly + fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper + and glue. + + 3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that + the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the + tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of + flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch. + + 4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, + various types of effects can be produced. + + 5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick + in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or + M.R.V.'s can be produced. + + 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with + the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. + + +7.43 ROMAN CANDLES + + Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult +to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are +well worth the trouble. + + 1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it + with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must + be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into + about 10 inch lengths. + + 2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy + and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. + + 3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, + and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that + the fuse fits tightly. + + 4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the + tube. + + 5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired + color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and + a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of + 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After + mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing + continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should + be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. + Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow + the ball to dry. + + + + + + + + 6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down + fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack + it gently against the ball with a pencil. + + 7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed + in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, + a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of + about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly + larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. + + 8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. + + 9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, + producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. + + + +8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION + + + Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained + through a public or university library. There are also many publications that +are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to +make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary +magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of +places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes +fireworks companies and the like. + + +COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS +ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ ŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸŸ + + FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, + P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING + MURFREESBORO, TN + 37133 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE + BOX 1378-SN + HERMISTON, OREGON + 97838 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH + SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES + DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA + 18328 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, + 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES + P.O. BOX 226 + PORT HURON, MICHIGAN + 48060 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS + P.O. BOX 22927 + ROCHESTER, NEW YORK + 14692 + + + + + +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, + 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES + RENO, NEVADA + 89509 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS + BOX 1451 + JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN + 53547 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS + P.O. BOX 3504 + STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT + 06095 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS + BOX 581 + EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA + 19028 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS + 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD + RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN + 49878 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS + P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) + ROCHESTER, INDIANNA + 46975 +_______________________________________________________________________________ + + +BOOKS +ŸŸŸŸŸ + +THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK + +THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL + +MILITARY EXPLOSIVES + +FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS + + In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she +wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the +chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order +of priority would probably resemble the following: + + LIQUIDS SOLIDS + _______ ______ + + ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate + ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate + ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) + ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate + ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium + ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum + + ____ Potassium Permanganate + ____ Sulfur + ____ Mercury + ____ Potassium Nitrate + ____ Potassium Hydroxide + ____ Phosphorus + ____ Sodium Azide + ____ Lead Acetate + ____ Barium Nitrate + + +10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY + + In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic +ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge +of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following +reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school +chemistry book. + + +1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide + K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O + 4 4 2 + +2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide + " + HNO ----> KNO + " + 3 3 + +3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " + 3 4 3 4 + +4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide + NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " + 3 3 3 3 + +5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium + +A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H + 3 2 + +B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al + 3 2 + + + + + + + The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container +which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and +sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high +explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess. + + +11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR + + + The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently attending +a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering. He was +raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school education +there. He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about eight years +of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was slightly +more powerful than a large firecracker. He continued to produce explosive +devices for several years. He also became interested in model rocketry, and has +built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets. While in high +school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became the +head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at age 18, he produced +his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an associate's +back yard. He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive ammunition, +and other pyrotechnic devices. While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro- +Technologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his hand; he +did not make the device. The author learned, however, and then decided to +reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive device, he +chooses to abstain from their production. An occasional rocket that produces +effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen in the +midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his favorite day +of the year. + + + Pax et Discordia, + + the Author + + +HERE ENDS THE FIRST PUBLICATION OF THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK. THIS IS THE ONLY +AUTHORIZED PUBLICATION, AND THE SOLE PRODUCTION RIGHTS BELONG TO CHAOS +INDUSTRIES AND GUNZENBOMZ PYRO-TECHNOLOGIES. + + + + The Terrorist's Handbook + ------------------------ + Written BY: UNKNOWN AUTHOR + +HEAVILY EDITED by: Kloey Detect of Five O and B.S. of Hardbodies + +Special thanks to WordPerfect Corporation for their spelling +checker.......This file NEEDED IT! + +(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*) +SPECIAL THANX ALSO GOES OUT TO: + +Nitro Glycerine: For providing the files! +Xpax : For being patient while the cop was there! +The Producer : For getting the files to me.... +The Director : For getting the files to me.... +Mr.Camaro : For his BIG EGO!!! +The Magician : For ALL the Bernoulli carts he is gonna send!! + + +This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is +the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown +author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be +merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then +spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not +spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell +check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors +which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience +to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little +error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!! + + +This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi +.....Wherever you both may be..... + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thedestr.1 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thedestr.1 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4173bcc5 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thedestr.1 @@ -0,0 +1,135 @@ + + [][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][] + [] [] + [] ___ |\ [] + [] / he |/estructors [] + [] [] + [] by Dragon Master [] + [] [] + [][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][] + + + + Have you ever tried to make a bomb, something that actually goes BOOM!? +Then find out that it only flares up? The Destructor is a simple yet powerful +bomb to make, using general components found at most hobby stores. + + The following is all you need to make one Destructor: + +1 CO2 Cartridge - Used in BB guns - come in a pack of five - Target sells em + for $1.50 a pack. + +2 Size D Estes model rocket engines - found in most hobby stores where model + rockets are sold. (Any size will work but + D's have the most powder) + +2 Solar ignitors - usually come with the engines - used to ignite the bomb + +1 Bottle of fastdrying model glue + +1 Scissors + +1 Funnel + +1 roll of masking tape + +1 hammer + +1 container (jar, cup, glass) + +1 20 foot wire (+ and -) + +1 6 volt (or 12 volt) lantern battery + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + Procedure: + + The CO2 cartridge is the body of the bomb and when it explodes will fragment +scraple.. so stand back.. Metal flies!! + + If you have a CO2 BB gun then you will have many empty cartridges. For those +of you who have never bought CO2 cartridges you will have to find some other +way of emptying them. I have done this on accident before, simply insert a nail +in the top of the cartridge and watch the CO2 gas come out!! Very cold if you +let it touch you. I do not suggest doing it this way, so if possible, ask a +friend who has a CO2 BB gun for their empty CO2 cartridges. + + Make the hole bigger: + Once you have an empty cartridge you have to make the hole bigger, otherwise +it is very difficult to get the explosive compounds into the cartridge. Take a +nail and pound the hole bigger. The size of the hole is very important. If it +is too big the cartridge will act as a rocket instead of a bomb. + + Prepare the explosive ingrediants: +Unroll the model rocket engines with a pocket knife, until you have the black +chunck of boosting compound. Throw away the unrolling paper. You may remove the +block of clay since this is not explosive. Powder the chunk with the hammer +until you have fine powder. To make the fine powder, lay down some wax paper +on the floor. Find a screen mesh, and filter the powder, leaving the big pieces +on top and the fine powder on the wax paper. Then pour the powder on the wax +paper into a container. After you have the two size D engines powdered and in +the container you are ready to put the powder into the CO2 cartridge. + + Get the ingrediants in the cartridge: + Make a funnel out of paper (a floppy disk jacket works well, with the end +clipped off) and tape it around the end of the cartridge. Slowly pour the +powder from the container into the funnel. You may have to use a toothpick to +help the powder through the funnel and into the cartridge. If your powder is +not fine enough it might jam in the hole and you will have to remove the funnel +and clear the passage. Shake the cartridge every so often until you can't hear +the powder in there. The cartridge is now full of explosive powder. + + Prepare the ignitor: + Clip the paper protector of the ignitor with a scissors and bend the wires so +they are relatively straight. (Be careful not to break the ignitor when bending +the wires) Coat the ignitor with glue except for the ends, and let it dry for a +few minutes. Then insert the ignitor into the cartridge leaving the ends +exposed. The tip of the ignitor must touch the powder for the powder to ignite. +This should be no problem if you have enough powder in the cartridge. Put glue +around the ignitor and the tip of the cartridge and let dry. + + Connecting the bomb: + Then bend the end wires of the ignitor and connect to your 20 foot wire. +Put tape around the end wires and cartridge. The Destructor is now ready to +detonate. + Detonating the bomb: + When you have found a place to detonate The Destructor, stretch the +wire the full 20 feet and then touch both wires to the two negative and postive +connectors. This will send a 6 volt charge through the wire and to the ignitor. +The ignitor will ignite the explosive compounds in the cartridge and in a +matter of seconds........ BOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!! + + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + There are many, many uses for The Destructor and I'm sure you have one.. + +Detonating it under water and watch the fish float to the top. (It actually +does explode under water, if ya put enuff tape around it) + +Putting it in someones mailbox.. hehe.. + +Putting it in a glass jar and watch the glass fly 50 feet up in the air. + +Burying it a foot under ground and watch the sand and rocks fly 50 feet up in +the air. (hand grenade simulation) heh.. + +Lowering it into a manhole and hear it echo all over the city.. manholes +actually jump up from the force.. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + THE WRITER OF THIS FILE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DESTRUCTION CAUSED BY THE +DESTRUCTOR. YOU AND YOU ALONE ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE USE OF THIS INFORMATION. + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thefunbo.1 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thefunbo.1 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..1e9abb69 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thefunbo.1 @@ -0,0 +1,98 @@ + +******************************************************************************* +* * +* + C A R B I D E E X P L O S I V E S + * +* * +* Just Like Mama Used to Make * +* * +* 08/03/87 By Pax Daronicus DINC/PDKS * +* * +******************************************************************************* + Formatted for 80 columns + + Written Exclusively for Lunatic Labs, Unltd. + 415-278-7421 + + + You've seen the headlines where they say "Carbide bomb wipes out entire +building complex." Well now, you can be the guy behind the scenes who gives +newspaper journalists a chance to keep their jobs. The chemical behind all of +this is calcium carbide. + + Calcium carbide; is a chemical that when mixed with water, releases an +ugly cloud that smells like the day Godzilla farted, and will explode violently +on contact with an open flame. Calcium carbide should be purchased from garden +supply stores in the form of Go-Fer-Gas;. It is best to buy it in a gopher- +infested area like San Lorenzo, California, the Gopher Capital of the World. +Go-Fer-Gas is calcium carbide. It gases out all the gophers, which is a cruel +thing to do. If you know where the guy who invented the stuff lives, blow up +his house for me, will you? Thanks. + +And now, the bombs: + +Stink Bomb + + To make a stink bomb, you take a few ounces of calcium carbide and put +it into a plastic bag. Take a piece of sponge and put it in the top of the +plastic bag, then tie a string or baggie tie around it, the tightness depending +on the delay that you want. You fill a tin can half way with water, and when +the time comes, you put the plastic bag, sponge end down, into the bag. The +water will seep through the sponge eventually and react with the carbide. A gas +and heat reaction will disintegrate the plastic bag and an ugly, stinking cloud +will come forth. + + It is a good idea to do this in a movie theater, because it is dark, +and probably no one will be smoking. You smuggle in the tin can of water, and +the bag of carbide. It is a good idea to cover the can with a piece of plastic +wrap, held on with a rubber band, so it won't spill everywhere. Also, you may +just want to ask for a glass of water at the refreshment stand (or at least a +cup, and fill it up at a drinking fountain), and use that instead, however the +bag may not fit. There are many other uses for this stink bomb, and I'm sure +many places you have in mind, so go to it, and have fun. + +Carbide Bomb + + To make a carbide bomb, you take a few pounds of calcium carbide and +put it into a plastic bag, as in the stink bomb. You drop the bag into a toilet +and get the hell out of the building or house. Any cigarette, pilot light or +other open flame will blow the crap out of everything. And once the reaction +begins, it absolutely can not be stopped. If some jerk tries to pull a heroic +act and flush the toilet, it would probably make things worse. + + The whole area is quickly filled with gas, and the entire place will be +blown to hell if the gas is lit. If there is a guy in the stall next to you who +is smoking a cigarette, and if he won't extinguish it at your request, drop the +bomb in the toilet and get out of the building. That always takes care of rude +people. + + To demolish an entire apartment or office building, simply pour a +couple pounds of carbide into the toilet while it is being flushed. The buildup +of gas would make the pipe system back up and every apartment or office on that +line would fill up with the gas. Whew! Wouldn't that be exciting? This would be +completely catastrophic to a house. The pilot light on the water heater or +furnace would ignite the gas, and enough pressure might be there to knock down +the walls! + + Keep in mind also that calcium carbide is a fairly safe chemical to +work with, nothing like nitroglycerine or nitrogen triiodide, but do not avoid +exercising caution when handling chemicals or detonating anything. + + Most of the research for this article was done from the book, The Poor +Man's James Bond, by Kurt Saxon, made available for $19.95. + + Upload this to any board you can find! This article may be reproduced +in any literature, electronic, written, or otherwise, without consent of the +authors, as long as it is reproduced in whole with full credit to the authors +and Lunatic Labs. + +And now, the Bullshit: + +============================================================================== +DISCLAIMER: The contents of this article are for the informational purposes to + the readers only. Any damages, injuries, or problems resulting + from this file is not the fault of the author. +============================================================================== + + + DINC + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/therm.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/therm.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3ba1473e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/therm.txt @@ -0,0 +1,61 @@ +------------------------------------- + + THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE +WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY +ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS +ESPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK +OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW +YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE. + THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS +TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS, +HEMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS +A GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES +OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL +ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL +NEED A SOURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN +ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT. +ATTATCH THEROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. + ^^^^^^^^ +THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE +WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR +FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT +IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT +CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE +SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, +THERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE +JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE +WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. +NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT +IT IN AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS +A NICE LIGHT RED. + THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED +IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER +FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS +I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT +YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY +THE BAR USE NO LESS THAN 94% PURE +ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.) + THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER +THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE +RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER +3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S +THERMITE! + NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF +MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE +THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM +LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE +STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL +SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) +THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE + THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE +MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T +WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO +LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING +MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT +WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, +GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN +VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES +WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH. +--------------------------------------- + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite new file mode 100644 index 00000000..a3bb933e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite @@ -0,0 +1,59 @@ +******************************************************************** +* Thermite * +* * +* By: * +* Phobos and Demos * +* of The Lunatic Phringe BBS * +* 312-965-3677 300/1200 Baud * +******************************************************************** + + + + + The following is for informational purposes only. + + + + + Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through + almost anything, even tungsten, and here is how to make it...... + + First, you need hematite. Hematite is Iron Oxide, in rock form. + If you don't want to buy it, you can make it by electrolizing a + nail. (An iron nail). + to electrolyze the iron nail, place it in a jar of water which + has a couple teaspoons of salt dissolved in it. Then, get a DC power + source, like a train transformer, and attatch the positive wire to + the nail, and attatch the negative wire to another nail and place that + in the glass of water, as far from the positive nail as possible. Let + this run overnight. + + While that is going, you have to get some Aluminum filings or + Aluminum powder. You can get this by filing an Aluminum bar. You also + might be able to find this at a hardware store. It is called Duralumin. + If you choose to use the bar, it has to be more than 90% pure. + (The bar method is easier and 90% is not hard to find.) + + In the morning, get the jar and you will see a dark, red shit in + The glass of water. Filter the water through a coffe filter and + collect all the red stuff. This is RUST!! Throw the water away. + Get an iron pot or pan and heat the red stuff until it is a + light red and dry. + + When it is cool, mix the two together. There should be 8 + grams of rust to 3 grams of Aluminum, and that's thermite. + + Now, how to set it off. + You must get a length of Magesium Ribbon. You have to put the + Magnesium into the pile of thermite. The Magnesium is a kind of wick, + which burns white hot!! You can get them from Chemical Supply houses. + All you have to do is light the Magnesium. This + can be done with a small torch like they sell at Radio Shack. The + ribbon should be at least 9 inches long. You can try rocket wick, + but it usually is not hot enough to set off the thermite. + + When the Magnesium burns down to the Thermite, it will ignite + and burn the shit out of anything around it. KEEP BACK!!! + Thermite can vaporize Carbon Steel. Think what it would do + to your skin?? Fucking OUCH!!!! + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..fd309dab --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite.ana @@ -0,0 +1,37 @@ + THERMITE BY THE RESEARCHER/PIRATE-80 + +THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY ANYTHING, +SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS ESPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. +NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE. + +THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS +,HEMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS A GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIE +S OF RUST. YOU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL +NEED A SOURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT. +ATTACH THEROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. + +THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR +FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT +CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, THERE +WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR +JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT IN AN +IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS A NICE LIGHT RED. + +THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER FILE +DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT YOUR LOCAL +HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THAN 94% PURE ALUMINUM. IT IS +CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER THE RUST AND ALUMINUM +FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER 3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. + +THAT'S THERMITE! + +NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE THERMITE. +EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE. IF NOT, +ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK + INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. +(DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE +BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, +GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON +HUMAN FLESH. +Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..7841bca9 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite.txt @@ -0,0 +1,42 @@ + + MAKING THERMITE + (Uploaded by Ninja Master) + +THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH +PRACTICALLY ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS ESPECIALLY OF USE IN +TRYING TO CRACK OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW TO MAKE IT. +IT IS VERY SIMPLE. + +THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S +TERMS, HEMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS A GOOD METHOD OF +MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES OF RUST. YOU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METER +ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL NEED A SOURCE OF DC POWER AS +WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT. ATTATCH THE ROD +TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE WIRE +IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE +SALT IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A +TEASPOON). LET THE SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, THERE +WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF +THE WATER OF JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO +DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT IN AN IRON POT UNTIL IT ALL TURNS A NICE +LIGHT RED. + +More [Y/n/=]?                   +THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN +EITHER FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY +ALUMINUM FILINGS AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE +BAR, USE NO LESS THAN 94% PURE ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED +DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER THE RUST AND +ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER 3 +GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE! + +NOT, TO LIGHT IT. STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE +OF THE THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT +YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY +HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE +THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM WITH A +BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY, THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE +THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT +WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT +STUFF CAN VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH. + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite3.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite3.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..52c96f0e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite3.ana @@ -0,0 +1,36 @@ + MAKING THERMITE + BY X CALIBUR + + THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY +ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS SPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK +OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE. + THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS, +EMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES +OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL +NEED A SURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT. +ATTATCH THE ROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE + ^^^^^^^^ +WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT +IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE +SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, HERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE +JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. +NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT I AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS +A NICE LIGHT RED. + THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER +FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT +YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THN 94% PURE +ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER +THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER +3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE! + NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE +THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE +STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) +THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE +MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO +LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT +WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN +VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH. + +THIS FILE UPLOADED BY THE MYSTIC +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS 304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermitep.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermitep.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..2b1a4c3d --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermitep.ana @@ -0,0 +1,194 @@ + PrimoPyro1990 + + + .... Thermite Incendiaries and Formulas .... + + + +DISCLAIMER : The making and possesion of the following devices and mixtures + is probably illegal in most communities. The incendiaries are + capable of burning in excess of 5400 degrees F. and are next + to impossible to extinguish. If you make them you accept all + responsibility for their possesion and use. You also accept + all responsibility for your own stupidity and carelessness. + This information is intended solely to educate. + + All Formulas are by Weight + + Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures in which a reactive metal +reduces oxygen from a metallic oxide. This produces a lot of heat, slag and +pure metal. The most common themite is ferroaluminum thermite, made from +aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide (metal oxide). When it burns it +produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure iron. +Thermite is usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3lb. brick +of thermite was placed on an aluminum engine block. After the thermite was +done burning, only a small portion of block was melted. However, the block +was very warped out of shape plus there were cracks all through the block. +Ferro-thermite produces about 930 calories per gram +The usual proportions of ferro-thermite are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide +The iron oxide usually used is not rust (Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4).Rust +will work but you may want to adjust the mixture to about 77% rust. +The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow down the burning rate. +The chemicals are mixed together thoroughly and compressed into a suitable +container. A first fire mix is poured on top and ignited. + +NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are not shock +or friction sensitive and ignite at about 2000 degrees F. + +A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns +hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very good one is : + Potassium Nitrate 5 parts + Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts + Sulfur 2 parts + +Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely +powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse +and burns intensely. + + +One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum +and the oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the thermite +useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals to +each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses +sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite +must be heated to melt the sulfur. + Iron Oxide 70 % + Aluminum 23 % + Sulfur 7 % + +Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325 degrees +F. and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle the +sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes +to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is +still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the +diasite to hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix. +When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide +when in contact with water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting +efforts. +Thermite can be made not to separate by compressing it under a couple of +tons pressure. The resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite +powder. + +CAST THERMITE: This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens +into a solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite +, but it makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as +follows. + Plaster of Paris 2 parts + Fine and Coarse Mixed Aluminum 2 parts + Iron Oxide 3 parts +Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a +mold and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Pour off any extra water that seperates +out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in the sun +for one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours. +Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry. + +THERMITE BOMB: Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite +formula and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. +Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum +foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around +the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two- +piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the +inside of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the +mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center +of the filled mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and +assemble mold. The mold will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick +out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball +of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse +sticking out of the ball. Dry the ball in the sun for about a week. +DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN ! +The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite. +Since the thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the +thermite and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion. +The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag +around. Use this carefully ! + +THERMITE WELL: To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and +drill a 1/4 in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel +over the hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite +and insert a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the +crucible. This should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well +over your target and ignite the first fire. The well works this way. +The thermite burns, making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes +to the bottom of the well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet. +This produces a small delay which gives the iron and slag more time to +separate fully. The molten iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of +the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the +crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target. +A 2 lb. thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with +different configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a +flower pot coated with a magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks +however. Take the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it. +This produces a fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag. + +THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION: This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself +if you really truly want to make it before you do any work on it. +It is next to impossible to give any dimensions of containers or weights +of charges because of the availability of parts changes from one person to +the next. However here is a general description of this device affectionately +known as a HELLHOUND. + Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be +electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor +side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz. +Drill a small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor +through the hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement. +Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of +the end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe. +This gives you a thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the +thermite is electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other +finally setting of the flash powder charge. +Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal container which is +sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to keep the device away +from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the wires out through +the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel proof epoxy. +Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline works +great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap and it is done. + +The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires. When +the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the container +is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When the +thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container +and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and +making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot +thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix. +The result is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel. +For the pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may +dissolve the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long. +But ask yourself, do you really want to make this? + + +EXOTIC THERMITES: Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal +flourides-magnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of flouride compound +in the mixture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely +corrosive and reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into +flames by mere contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium +A strong first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the +teflon and the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any +smoke from the burning mixture. +If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides of low energy +metals. Lead flouride is a good example. Try using 90% lead flouride and +10% aluminum. +Warning: Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately +equal to cyanide compounds. +Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and aluminum. When this +burns,it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts water releases hydrogen +phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air. +Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as white- +lockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have +to be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and +don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but +it is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent +of magnesium works well. + +Fighting thermite fires: Two ways to fight thermite fires are either +smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put out the thermite but it +does help contain it and block some of the heat. +The other way is to flood the thermite with a great amount of water. This +helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small +amount of water, an explosion may result as the thermite may reduce the water +and release hydrogen gas. +Thermite can start fires from the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby +flammable substances can catch fire even though no sparks or flame touch +them. + + *** Kilroy was here *** + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thevanda.2 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thevanda.2 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..80449f3c --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thevanda.2 @@ -0,0 +1,142 @@ +/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\\ +/ The \ / /\ /\ / /\ /\ \ /_ \ +/ \/ /--\ / \/ /_/ /--\ \__ / (vandals) HandBook \ +//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\///\///\///\//\//\//\/\ +By Capt. Chaos Re-Type by Scourge + +>>>>>C02 Cartridge Bombs<<<<< + + You will have to use up a new cartridge by either shooting it in a C02 +BBGun or use it in a C02 car or what ever else you might figure out to do +with it. Using a nail force the hole in it bigger so as to allow the powder +and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it +in there by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface..Insert a +fuse, light and run..this does wonders for a row of mailboxes. Be careful +however, this little beauty thrown shrapnel and can be quite a hazard. + +>>>>>Thermite Incendiary-Bomb<<<<< + + The first step in the construction of a thermite bomb is to get some +iron-oxide (rust). Here is a good way to make large quanitys in a short +time: First you will need a d.c. convertor, whitch can be found on a race +track or train track. Cut the connector off, seperate the two wires, and +strip them both. You will secondly need a jar of water that has been +diluted with salt, this makes the water a conductor. Use about a tabelsp- +oon of salt. Next insert both wires into the solution, and determine witch +one bubbles the most. You will need to tie a common iron nail to the one +that bubbles the most (the positive wire), if you don't you will get the +oposite of rust, Rust-Acid! Put the two wires into the jarr on opposite +sides of the jar, untill both sides are completely submerged. Let that +sit over night, and remove the crusty stuff of the nail, and both wires. +Remove the excess water and poor the crusty solution on a cookie sheet, +let it dry out in the sun for a few hours or over night. It should be a +orange-brown colour, don't work if its not though..Crush into a fine +powder, on heat in a cast iron pot untill it turns red. Now mix the +Iron-Oxide with Aluminum filings whitch can be bought, or made by filed +down of an aluminum bar (Note: you can buy the aluminum filings at an +autoparts store, it stops radiator leaks. Scourge.) The ration should be +8/3 the 8 being the rust and the 3 being the aluminum. Get some Magnesium +either strips of powder, and put it on the Thermite. The Mag. is the bombs +fuse, light the magnesium with a lighter or blow torch, and get away..It +makes a volcano..heh..This stuff is damn hot, it'll melt through a payfone +with ease.. + +>>>>>Touch Explosives<<<<< + + This is sorta a mild explosive, but can be dangerous in large quanties. +To make touch explosive (such as the kind in 'whipper snappers, but more +potent) mix Iodine crystals in amonia until the iodine won't disolve any +more (make a saturated solution). Let it sit untill you get a white percip- +itate at the bottom..pour off the excess amonia and dry out the crystals the +same way you did the Thermite..Becarefull now cause these dried crystals +are your touch explosives! (note: this is Nitrogen-Tri-Iodine, in its purest +form this stuff is sensitive to light wind or a feathers touch! Since there +is no filteration it is less lensitive..Scourge) + +>>>>>Letter Bombs<<<<< + + + You will first need to make a mild version of thermite as mentioned above, +however you will use just plain iron filings, instead of rust. Mix the Iron +and Aluminum, at a ratio of 75% Aluminum and 25% Iron. This mixture will burn +violently in an enclosed space (Wow! Like ohh..an Envelope!), witch brings us +to our next ingredient. Go to the post office or buisness supply store and buy +an insulated (padded) envelope. The double layered kind. Seperate the layers +and place the mild thermite in the main/middle section, where the letter would +go. In the outer layer place ample magnesium powder..Thats your bomb..to light +it... + This is the tricky part and is hard to explain in writing, expirement with +it untill you have it right. Ok, the fuse is just that touch sensitive explos- +ive placed where the letter would be torn open. You may want to wrap it like a +long cigerette and place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer, +on top of the powdered magnesium. When the envelope is riped it ignights the +magnesium (in a flash), the magnesium ignights the thermite.there you have it, +a person with verry bad burns... + +>>>>>Paint Bombs<<<<< + + To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal can with a fastenable lid, +a nice bright coloured paint, and a quanity of dry ic. place the paint in the +can and drop the ice in. Quickly place the lid on tightly and then run (duh).. +Whith some testing you can get it down so that you have a timer that works on +how much ice you have compared with the quanity of paint you have. If your +really pissed at someone, you could place it on a doorstep, knock, and then +run!!! Nuff' said about bombs..lets work on cars.. + +>>>>>Send A car to Hell!<<<<< + + As I'm sure you know there are a thousand and one ways to destroy a car, +but I'll just cover the funnest and less known ones.. + Place Thermit on the hood, light it, it'll burn though the hood, engine +block, and Axel. Tape a C02 bomb to anywere (axel, wheel, muffler, ect.), +Burn Magnesium on the hood or roof..Put tampon, sugar, water, salt, dirt, +ping-pong ball, anything in the gas-tank..Bannas in the tail pipe (Bev. Hills +Cop)..put a long rang deep into the gas-tank, light it and run like hell.. +Make a JIMMEY (shown below) out of a long thin metal ruler, and get in the car +, rip up the seats, steal the radio, radar detector, whatever + +Diagram Of A JIMMEY: + _______________________________________________________ ___ +| |__| \ +| __ | +|_______________________________________________________| |___/ + + + + + + +>>>>>Hate School???<<<<< + + + Call in a bomb threat, or better yet also leave a fake (real?) bomb in a +locker (not yours)..No School that day, Put tons of jello in the toilett, +and in a few hours..watch it wiggle see it jiggle..heh..Flush gelletin +capletts filled with sodium down the 'twalett and they'll explode, rupturing +a watter pipe..Put tons of crystal drano (Lye Brand), I mean bottles, in +your toilette..add a roll or two of aluminum foil in it..it creates hydrogen, +then drow in a match..the school has ts own olympic flame. Get inside the +schools computers ( most likely Apple's) and steal, add, or modify the boards +in any particular way..Super/Crazy Glue lock dials.. + +>>>>> Phone Related Vandalism<<<<< + + + If you live where there are underground lines then you can ruin some one's +life with ease...All you must do is go to their houseand find the green junction +box that interfaces with their line (possibly other lines also) with +major lines. These can be found underneath the nearest pole, take a socket +wrench and loosed the nut or the right. Then take a wire clippers and clip a +few wires, or sledge hamer it, or even bomb it..No phones for a week..Auto +Dial them (use an extender...or they'll trace you) and dial them for a week.. +Call the Phone Company and ask for call waitig, forwording, party line,ect.. +Or get it disconnected... + +>>>>>Misc.<<<<< +Get a persons mail held while their 'on vacation' for a month, get it +forwarded to a neighbors house..Go to target and set all the alarms for +the same time + + + +/ diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timebomb b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timebomb new file mode 100644 index 00000000..1d3ff693 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timebomb @@ -0,0 +1,58 @@ +*************************************** + HOW TO MAKE A TIMEBOMB +*************************************** + + MAKING A TIMER IS EASIER THAN MANY PEOPLE MAY THINK. THE ONLY THINGS YOU WILL + +NEED ARE: + + 1. A CLOCK WITH HANDS + 2. WIRE + 3. A BATTERY + 4. SOME FILAMENT WIRE + + + PHIRST, IF THE CLOCK HAS A PLASTIC COVER OVER THE PHACE, BREAK IT OFF. WHAT +YOU DO NOW IS TAKE TWO LONG WIRES AND ATTACH ONE TO THE MINUTE HAND OR HOUR HAND + +(NOT BOTH) AND THE OTHER PERPENDICULAR TO THE PHACE. THE PURPOSE HERE IS TO +SHORT OUT THE WIRES AS THE HANDS SWING AROUND TO THE DESIRED TIME. + + ONCE YOU HAVE THIS DONE, SOLDER ONE WIRE TO THE POSITIVE (+) END OF THR +BATTERY, FILAMENT WIRE TO THE NEGATIVE (-) END OF THE BATT. AND THE OTHER WIRE +TO THE OTHER END OF THE FILAMENT WIRE. + + NOW, WHEN THE DESIRED TIME COMES UP, THE WIRES WILL SHORT OUT, HEATING THE +FILAMENT WIRE AND BURNING WHATEVER FUSE YOU MAY HAVE ON IT LEADING TO THE +EXPLOSION OF YOUR PHAVORITE BOMB. + + NOTE: IF YOU CAN'T FIND FILAMENT WIRE, YOU CAN USE SOMETHING ELSE, LIKE STEEL + +WOOL. REMEMBER IN SURVIVAL TRAINING WHEN THEY SHOWED YOU HOW TO BURN STEEL WOOL + +WITH JUST A PHEW BATTERIES? SAME PRINCIPLE. + + ***** ATTENTION: BE JUST LIKE YOUR PHAVORITE HOLLYWOOD ACTOR: SEND E-MAIL +FOR A SCHEMATIC OF A FULLY ELECTRONIC VERSION OF THIS TIMER!! + +E-MAIL, SUBPOENAS, ETC.. SHOULD BE ADDRESSED TO: + +///// // // + / / // / + / HE / / ASTER + + + Note from Mortician: + + This is a very good meathod. I have used it a couple of times. You can do +the same thing with an egg timer, except an egg timer has a max. time limit of +an hour. Make sure that the filiment wire will ignite the fuse before you set +it all up because a lit of the time the wire will not heat up. Your best bet +for batteries is two nine volt one with the neg from the first hooked up to the +pos from the second. Then use the two remaining terminals. + + A good meathod, also pretty safe. + +--------------------------------------- +Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timedela.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timedela.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..864db8ae --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timedela.txt @@ -0,0 +1,200 @@ +Time Delay Devices +------------------ + + There are three different types of time-delay devices: + +1) Metal strip under tension till it breaks. + +2) Chemical action that will, after a period of time, produce + enough heat to detonate the explosive charge. + +3) An alarm clock set for a certain time, so that when it rings + it will complete and electrical circuit, thus detonating an + electrical blasting cap. + + The first method, metal under tension until breakage, I will +not discuss, since it is extremely hazardous and unreliable. You +can have little or no control over timing, and such devices are +notorious for backfiring. + + The chemical-action time-delay methods have proven to be pretty +reliable. Most of this action incorporates the amount time taken +by certain solution of acid to eat its way through another +substance. The time length can be determined by the +concentration of the acid and by the substance to be eaten +through. + + +Nipple Time Bomb +---------------- + An example of this type of chemical action is the Nipple Time +Bomb, which is very effective. One must obtain a short section +of steel pipe and cap each end accordingly. Place inside the +steel pipe a stick of dynamite, and drill a quarter-inch hole at +on end of the cap. Now, into this hole you must place a small +amount of potassium chlorate and gunpowder. Now, seperatly from +the pipe, take a small glass vial and fill it with a concentrated +sulfuric acid solution, then stop up the end with a paper or cork +stopper. To arm the bomb, place the vial of acid upside down in +the hole at the top of the pipe. Now, when the acid has eaten +its way through the stopper, it will come in contact with the +potassium chlorate and gunpowder. The mixture of these chemicals +will cause a minor explosion, but it will be large enough to +produce the heat necessary to detonate the dynamite. The +detonation time is usually between three and six hours. If a +solution of sulfuric acid and glycerin is used, rather than just +a pure sulfuric acid, the time delay will be up to five or six +days. + +Here is a diagram: + +$ = Vial with Sulfuric Acid Mixture +% = Potassium Chlorate +# = Gunpowder + + +--+$+--+ + ! !$! ! + C ! !$! ! + A ==> ! !%! ! + P ! !#! ! + ! +-+ ! + +-+---+-+ + ! ! + ! D ! + ! Y ! + P ! N ! + I ==> ! A ! + P ! M ! + E ! I ! + ! T ! + ! E ! + ! ! + +-+---+-+ + C ! ! + A ==> ! ! + P ! ! + ! ! + ! ! + +-------+ + +Vial of Sulfuric Acid: + + +---+ + A ! ! + I ==> ! ! + R ! ! + !%%%! + SULFURIC !%%%! + ==> !%%%! + ACID !%%%! + !%%%! + !%_%! + STOPPER ==> !/ \! + +---+ + +Place the vial upside down in the top of the bomb as shown. + + +Incendiary Time Bomb +-------------------- + This next one is an incendiary time bomb. This is very +similiar to the Nipple Time Bomb, in that it relies on the same +chemical action, but without the dynamite. The procedure is very +simple. A cardboard box or iron tube is filled with a mixture of +three-quarters potassium chlorate and one-quarter sugar, and then +sealed. At one end a hole is made. Into that hole is placed an +inverted vial of sulfuric acid, with a paper or cork stopper, it +will come into contact with the potassium chlorate-sugar mixture. +This will result in a very hot, powerful fire. + +Illustration: + +% = Vial of Sulfuric Mixture as in the + above bomb +$ = Cork or Paper Stopper +# = Mixture of Potassium Cholrate and + Sugar + + +---+ +---+ + ! !%! ! + ! !%! ! + ! !%! ! + ! !%! ! + ! !$! ! + ! +-+ ! + !#########! + !#########! + !#########! + !#########! + !#########! + !#########! + +---------+ + + +Magnifying-Glass Bomb +--------------------- + The Magnigying-Glass Bomb is effective, but it has many +disadvantages. The procedure is very simple. Take a tin can and +fill three-quarters of it with highly coompressed gunpowder. Now +attach to the top of the can a small magnifying glass, so that +the sun's light, when magnifyed through the glass, will cause the +heat necessary to detonate the charge. This works very well, as +long as it doesn't rain. + +Illustration: + + + Magnifying Glass + ! + +-----+ + +------! !------+ + ! +-----+ ! + ! ! + ! ! + ! ! + !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! + !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! + !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! + !%%%%%GUNPOWDER%%%%%! + !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! + !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! + !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! + +-------------------+ + + +Alarm-Clock Time Bomb +--------------------- + The alarm-clock detonation method is the most accurate device, +in that a person can the the exact time he wishes the bomb to +explode. It is connected in the same fashion as the other +eletrical-circuit booby traps. Wires are connected to the hammer +of the bell and to the bell itself, via the blasting cap, to a +dry cell. The clock should be set to go off before the booby +trap is built. When the alarm goes off, the hammer and bell +connect completing the electrical circuit and detonating the +explosive. + +Illustration: + + %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + % +---++---+ % DYNAMITE % + % ! +!!+ ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + % ! !DC! ! % DYNAMITE % + % ! !re! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + % ! !yl! ! % DYNAMITE % + % ! ! l! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + % ! +--+ +-- Blasting Cap % + %%!%%%%%%%%!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + % ! ! % DYNAMITE % + % +-+----+-+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + % !oooo! % DYNAMITE % + % !oooo! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + % !oooo! % DYNAMITE % + % +----+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + % Clock % DYNAMITE % + %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + + + + ************************************************ + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timeprim.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timeprim.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..df20ace7 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timeprim.txt @@ -0,0 +1,37 @@ + +INSTRUCIONS FOR TIMERS AND PRIMERS FOR EXPLOSIVES. + + + TIMERS: + + Timers for explosives are much more readily availible now + than several years ago. The watch companies have seen to this + To make a simple timing device all you need is any digital watch + with alarm and some wire. Digital watches with alarms are the + perfect timer for a bomb. They can be modified very easily. To do + this, simply open the watch and disconect the buzzer. Solder some + wires to the buzzer leads and you are all set. This devise must + be conected to a primer. + + PRIMERS: + + Primers are a small explosive devise to set off a larger + explosion. An example would be an atomic bomb used to detonate a + hydrogen bomb. The primers I will be discussing are for much + smaller devises though. You will need these parts: the above + timer, a 6-12volt battery, a low volt coil relay, and a solar + egniter. Take the timer and solder the buzzer leads to the coil + of the relay. The relay coil must be below 1.5v,.02amps. These + are availible at any Radio Shack store. Wire the battery in a + curcuit with the relay and solar egniter. The solar egniter + should be the type used in model rockets. Set the timer alarm to + go off whenever desired. the solar egniter can the be inserted in + many types of explosives such as plastique, dynamite, m-80's or + the like. The solar egniter provides enough of an explosion to + set these substances off. Since you never want to be around when + an explosion goes off, this is a very easy way not to be there. + + Note: This devise is never intended for actual use! This + information is merely for your personal knowledge. + + Captain Corcoran diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timer.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timer.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4bc45380 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timer.txt @@ -0,0 +1,69 @@ + +INSTRUCIONS FOR TIMERS AND PRIMERS FOR EXPLOSIVES. + + + TIMERS: + + Timers for explosives are much more readily availible now + than several years ago. The watch companies have seen to this + To make a simple timing device all you need is any digital watch + with alarm and some wire. Digital watches with alarms are the + perfect timer for a bomb. They can be modified very easily. To do + this, simply open the watch and disconect the buzzer. Solder some + wires to the buzzer leads and you are all set. This devise must + be conected to a primer. + + PRIMERS: + + Primers are a small explosive devise to set off a larger + explosion. An example would be an atomic bomb used to detonate a + hydrogen bomb. The primers I will be discussing are for much + smaller devises though. You will need these parts: the above + timer, a 6-12volt battery, a low volt coil relay, and a solar + egniter. Take the timer and solder the buzzer leads to the coil + of the relay. The relay coil must be below 1.5v,.02amps. These + are availible at any Radio Shack store. Wire the battery in a + curcuit with the relay and solar egniter. The solar egniter + should be the type used in model rockets. Set the timer alarm to + go off whenever desired. the solar egniter can the be inserted in + many types of explosives such as plastique, dynamite, m-80's or + the like. The solar egniter provides enough of an explosion to + set these substances off. Since you never want to be around when + an explosion goes off, this is a very easy way not to be there. + + Note: This devise is never intended for actual use! This + information is merely for your personal knowledge. + + Captain Corcoran + + + + /////////////////////////////////////////////////////// + // The PIRATES' HOLLOW // + // 415-236-2371 // + // over 12 Megs of Elite Text Files // + // ROR-ALUCARD // + // Sysop: Doctor Murdock // + // C0-Sysops: That One, Sir Death, Sid Gnarly & Finn // + // // + // "The Gates of Hell are open night and day; // + // Smooth is the Descent, and Easy is the way.." // + /////////////////////////////////////////////////////// + + + + + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699 + The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK + The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674 + Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560 + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timers.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timers.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..7bab8c9e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timers.ana @@ -0,0 +1,69 @@ + + + +[>:/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:<] +[\ A Black September Presentation /] +[/ How to make Electrical Timers \] +[\ /] +[/ Written By: \] +[\ /] +[/ Fletch \] +[\ /] +[/ Special Thanks to: \] +[\ Lightning Phantom /] +[/ 02/27/88 \] +[>:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:<] + + +File 01:Dripping Tap Timer +========================== +This type of timer is made for a sink/faucet of some sort, where you can +control the rate of water dripping out of the nozzle. The most convenient way +of doing this is to place the whole thing in the sink, but the charge (bomb) +can be placed elsewhere, depending on how much wire you have. What you're +gonna have to do is get a glass jar (or any other non-conducting container), +size doesn't matter (depending on how much time you need). Hook two wires to +aluminum foil (Steel wool may also be used), placing the strips of aluminum +over the mouth of the jar. Connect one wire directly to the detonator. +Connect the second wire directly to the battery. Run a third wire from the +battery directly to the detonator. Now place the glass jar under the dripping +tap (if not already placed), and turn faucet on (adjust the rate according to +how much time you need). When the water level in the jar reaches the aluminum +foil contacts, the electrical circuit is closed, thus detonating the bomb. + + +File 02:Relay Timer +=================== +This type of timer is best used when long delays are required. You will need +two batteries (A & B respectively). Hook battery A to a relay. Battery A +gives the power to the relay's electromagnet. When battery A fails, the +circuit running through the relay closes. Battery B is hooked so that when the +relay closes, it fires the charge. Experiment with various batteries till you +find the best type of battery to use for the desired delay. + + +File 03:Hourglass Timer +======================= +What you're gonna have to do is take out all the sand in the hourglass, +replacing it with metal filings. Now make two small holes into one end of +the hourglass. Hook one wire from the battery directly to the detonator. +Hook a wire from the detonator to the top hole in the hourglass, and hook the +last wire from the battery to the bottom of the hourglass. The metal filings +flowing into the bottom of the hourglass will close the electrical circuit and +detonate the bomb. + + +File 04:Thermometer Timer +========================= +Make a small hole in the bulb of the thermometer, inserting the first wire from +the battery directly into the bulb. Next make a hole into the stem of the +thermometer (Making sure it's above the mercury levelhe second wire directly +from the detonator to the stem. Insert the third wire from the battery to the +detonator. When the thermometer is exposed to heat, the mercury will rise and +close the electrical circuit, detonating the bomb. Delay time can be adjusted +by varying the intensity of the heat source and the thermometer's proximity to +it. + + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timers.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timers.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..251272d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timers.txt @@ -0,0 +1,77 @@ +[>:/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:<] +[\ A Black September Presentation /] +[/ How to make Electrical Timers \] +[\ /] +[/ Written By: \] +[\ /] +[/ Fletch \] +[\ /] +[/ Special Thanks to: \] +[\ Lightning Phantom /] +[/ \] +[>:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:<] + + +File 01:Dripping Tap Timer +========================== + This type of timer is made for a sink/faucet of some sort, where you can control +the rate of water dripping out of the nozzle. The most convenient way of doing this +is to place the whole thing in the sink, but the charge (bomb) can be placed else +where, depending on how much wire you have. What you're gonna have to do is get a glass +jar (or any other non-conducting container), size doesn't matter (depending on how much +time you need). Hook two wires to aluminum foil (Steel wool may also be used) +, placing the strips of aluminum over the mouth of the jar. Connect one wire directly +to the detonator. Connect the second wire directly to the battery. Run a third wire +from the battery directly to the detonator. Now place the glass jar under the dri +pping tap (if not already placed), and turn faucet on (adjust the rate according to how +much time you need). When the water level in the jar reaches the aluminum foil +contacts, the electrical circuit is closed, thus detonating the bomb. + +File 02:Relay Timer +=================== + This type of timer is best used when long delays are required. You will need +two batteries (A & B respectively). Hook battery A to a relay. Battery A gives the +power to the relay's electromagnet. When battery A fails, the circuit running throu +gh the relay closes. Battery B is hooked so that when the relay closes, it fires the +charge. Experiment with various batteries till you find the best type of battery to +use for the desired delay. + +File 03:Hourglass Timer +======================= + What you're gonna have to do is take out all the sand in the hourglass, +replacing it with metal filings. Now make two small holes into one end of the +hourglass. Hook one wire from the battery directly to the detonator. Hook a wire from +the deto +nator to the top hole in the hourglass, and hook the last wire from the battery to the +bottom of the hourglass. The metal filings flowing into the bottom of the hourglass +will close the electrical circuit and detonate the bomb. + +File 04:Thermometer Timer +========================= + Make a small hole in the bulb of the thermometer, inserting the first wire from +the battery directly into the bulb. Next make a hole into the stem of the thermometer +(Making sure it's above the mercury levelhe second wire directly from the detona +tor to the stem. Insert the third wire from the battery to the detonator. When the +thermometer is exposed to heat, the mercury will rise and close the electrical circuit, +detonating the bomb. Delay time can be adjusted by varying the intensity of the h +eat source and the thermometer's proximity to it. + +Disclaimer +========== + If you fuck someone over, it ain't my fault. + +Ending Note +=========== + If you need/want hand drawn schematics of any/all of these electrical timers, +leave me mail on one of the following boards. + +[>:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:<] +[\ Give these boards a call: /] +[/ \] +[\ Dragonfire..........[609] 424/2606 /] +[/ Hard Rock Cafe......[201] 362-6304 /] +[>:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:<] + + +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS...... + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tipsanar.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tipsanar.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ec32c8e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tipsanar.ana @@ -0,0 +1,174 @@ +[ File Taken from Silicon Valley (504)-241-3452 10mBBS 300/1200 ] + + _____________________________ +/ Tips for Creative Anarchists\_______________________________________________ +| \ +| An Anarchists-R-Us / Private Anarchy Limited release | +| | +| Written by: The Dead Kennedy and The CPA | +| | +| Silicon Valley............504-241-3452 300/1200/10meg | +| The Pitstop...............504-774-7126 300/1200/10Meg | +| | +\_____________________________________________________________________________/ + + +Phone Ringer +------------ + This will only work if you have an old desk type phone with the bell, + not one that beeps. Remove the various screws that you need to to take + the phone apart. If you see 2 bells with a little knocker in the + middle, you are in luck. If the bells are made of some non-electricity + conducting metal, cover them, along with the knocker, with tin foil. + Connect a wire to the knocker and one to the bell. This is your "gap" + for the electrical current. Wire up some type of electrical device + to the "gizmo" you have created by wiring the negatives direct, and + by splitting the positives with the bell and knocker. Since the contact + will only be for a millisecond, I suggest that you do not use a Solar + igniter. Instead, use a mini lightbulb that only requires something + like a 9-volt to make it light. Break the very top of the bulb off and + fill the remainder with gunpowder or flash powder. Place the fuse in + the powder and tape it up real good. When the phone rings, if all has + gone well, whatever you have connected will blink, blow up, or do + whatever it is supposed to. + + .:'"':. <> Knocker .:'"':. + : Bell : \ : Bell : + ':...:' \ ':...:' + |wire |\ + | #1 |wire + | | #2 fuse + | |___ | ++--------+ | | __.:'"':. \ / +------------+ +| 9 volt |=+ +--:__ bulb=======| explosive | +| |=-________________|':...:' +------------+ ++--------+/ \ + + and - terminals + + +Matchbox +-------- + Take a matchbox (sliding type, preferably white tip matches) and remove + all of the matches. Get a piece of light sandpaper approximately the + size of the box and glue it to the roof of the box housing (not the + little drawer part). Take one or two matches and cut the wood off so + you will have just the tip and enough stick to push it up against the + roof of the box. Use heavy glue or air hardening clay to glue the + sawed-off matches to the floor of the drawer. Fill the drawer up with + some type of explosive or other device (salt-peter -n- sugar for a real + small, inexspensive smoke bomb. Just enough to scare somebody and + maybe burn their hands a little). Push on the sides of the box to + make to roof lift up from the rest of the box and slide the drawer in + slowly and carefully. Now, just place the boom-box somewhere where it + is sure to be found (on a table in a mall) and watch for some dude + who wants to light up a smoke! + +Christmas gift +-------------- + Is there alot of holiday thefts in your town? If there is, this is + for you. First, build a small pipe bomb with heavily salt-petered + black powder or some other powder that is easy to ignite. Instead of + a fuse, insert one of those little kid toys that you pull the 2 + strings apart and it pops, or even a popper from a champagne party + popper that shoot out streamers or confetti. Next, poke a small hole + in the side of a nice sized box. tape the bomb to the wall of the box + so the popper hole is right next to the hole in the box. Run the + string through and tie an even longer one to the end. Tie the very + end (not the bomb end) to something in your car, roll down the window, + place the "prize" on the seat, and go for a little cruise through the + problem areas in your town. Just wait for one of those little bastards + to reach in, grab the box, and run. Looks like you're at the end of + your rope there son. This could even be placed / tied down to a park + bench or something like that. The only problem is, when it blows, + he/she/it will be quite pissed if they can still move. I've seen people + get everything from school bags to purses ripped off in this manner. + You can't call that anarchy, that is just plain being an asshole! + +Highway Messages +---------------- + You see everyone painting stuff like "Ozzy Rules" and "Dick loves Jane" + on highway overpasses. You may think it is a cool idea yourself by + painting something as simple as an anarchy symbol up there. Well, why + be normal? Try painting it on the cement where the cars go! Just steal + a few road barricades (ones with blinking lights on them) and set them + up around the road to be painted. Get out your can of paint, do the + job, and go! Make the letters tall. You'll have to remember that the + motorists will be reading it from an angle! + +Police Radar Stopper +-------------------- + Have you ever gotten nailed by the cops in one of those speed-radar + traps? Well, if you put a burnt out flourescent lightbulb on your + dash, it will absorb the energy from the air and not sent them back + a response! A cop said it works, but I would still slow down if I + were you. Personally, I think it's tacky looking to drive around + with a lightbulb on the dash of my Porsche! Ha! + +Radio Control +------------- + Obtain an old remote control vehicle (very cheap, like the kind radio + shack sells for $20, you probably have 3 or 4 in your attic). It + doesn't have to be complex, just the kind that will make the wheels + turn when you hit a button. Remove the "servo" from the car. Make + a small box that will hold the receiver, servo, and battery. Run a + wire from the + terminal on the battery to the servo. Next, find where + the servo will stop rotating and place a small piece of sheet metal + there (preferably somewhere on the wall of the box). Run a wire from + one side of a solar ingiter to the sheet metal. Wire the other side + of the igniter directly to the negative terminal on the battery. + Now, just tape the fuse from an explosive directly to the igniter. + You're machine is ready to roll. This can be used in devices like + the christmas gift bomb. It should have about a 50 foot range. + When you want it to go, just hit the switch! + +School Stink Bomb +----------------- + Take a mayonnaise jar and fill the bottom with sulfur. Next, take + some flimsy aluminum foil and make a leak-proof bowl out of it that + will cover the top of the jar (test it first or get busted!). Place + the bowl over the top of the jar. Obtain some medium strength + Hydrochloric acid and pour enough of it to do a good job in the bowl. + Place your little jar near one of the air conditioning unit's intake + vents and leave (preferably one in a janitor's closet or where no + students go). In good time, the HCL will eat through the aluminum + and drop onto the sulfur. The air intake will suck up the smoke and + fumes and take out the whole building, and they'll probably close + school for a day or so. + +Where do I get it? +------------------ + I know what you're thinking.. "Where do I get the chemicals I need to + make all of these explosive devices I would need to use some of these + ideas?" Well, I've been asked that question many of times. The only + answers I have are: 1) Make your own black powder (See Terrorist Home + Companion series), 2) Buy some Pyrodex and cannon fuse from your local + sporting goods shop (Tell them you have a house on a lake with a small + cannon and you need it for a family reunion), or (drumroll please), + for the chemicals, tubes, fuses, and everything else you would ever + need, send $13.50 for a subscription to AM Fireworks News (address + below). It has ads for companies that sell everything you would + ever need. + + AM Fireworks News + SR - Box 30 + Dingman's Ferry, PA + 18328 + +[ Warning ] +----------- + The tips in this file and other files written by myself are somewhat + incomplete. This leaves a margin for you to use your own creativity. + All tips have either been tested or just plain "have to work". I + suggest that unless you know what you are doing, don't try too many + of these. And if you do, do it small scale first. + + _____________________________________________________________________________ +/ \ +| Special thanks to: Sammy the God and The Gray Elf | +| | +| "I'm as dazed and confused as a clubbed baby seal" - Gray Elf | +| | +| Please leave all titles intact. "(C) 1986/87 By Anarchists-R-Us" | + \____________________________________________________________________________/ + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..e3fb6656 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt @@ -0,0 +1,57 @@ +][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ +][ HOW TO MAKE TNT ][ +][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ + + +Probably the most important explosive +compound in use today is TNT +(trinitrotoluene). This and other very +similar types of high explosives ar all +used by the military, because of their +fantastic power- about 2.25 millions +pounds per square inch, and there +great stability. TNT also has the +great advantage of being able to be +melted at 82 degrees F., so that it +can be poured into shells, mortars, +or any other projectiles. Military +TNT comes in containers which +resemble drycell batteries, and are +usually ingnited by an electrical +charge, coupled with an electical +blasting cap, although there are +other methods. + +Preparation of TNT + +1. Take two beakers. In the first +prepare a solution of 76 percent +sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid +and 1 percent water. In the other +beaker, prepare another solution of 57 +percent nitric acid and 43 percent +sulfuric acid (percentagess are on a +weight ratio rather than volume). + +2. Ten grams of the first solutions +are poured into an empty beaker and +placed in an ice bath. + +3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir +for several minutes. + +4. remove this beaker from the ice bath +and gently heat until it reaches 50 +degrees C. The solution is stirred +constantly while being heated. + +5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, +from the first beaker, are added and +the temperature is held for the next +ten minutes, and an oily liquid will +begin to form on the top of the acid. + +6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the ou too will have to take +a nice long shower. + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..f9465603 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt.ana @@ -0,0 +1,73 @@ + + HOW TO MAKE TNT + THE ANARCHIST COOKBOOK + +PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT EXPLOSIVE COMPOUND IN USE TODAY IS TNT +(TRINITROTOLENE). THIS AND OTHER VERY SIMILAR TYPES OF HIGH EXPLOSIVES ARE ALL +USED BY THE MILITARY, BECAUSE OF THEIR FANTASTIC POWER - ABOUT 2.25 MILLION +POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH, AND THEIR GREAT STABILITY. TNT ALSO HAS THE GREAT +ADVANTAGE OF BEING ABLE TO BE MELTED AT 82 DEGREES F., SO THAT IT CAN BE +POURED INTO SHELLS, MORTARS, OR ANY OTHER PROJECTILES. MILITARY TNT COMES +IN CONTAINERS WHICH RESEMBLE DRY CELL BATTERIES, AND ARE USUALLY IGNITED BY AN +ELECTRICAL CHARGE, COUPLED WITH AN ELECTRICAL BLASTING CAP, ALTHOUGH THERE ARE +OTHER METHODS. + +PREPARATION OF TNT +1. TAKE TWO BEAKERS. IN THE FIRST, PREPARE A SOLUTION OF 76% SULFURIC ACID, 23% + NITRIC ACID, AND 1% WATER. IN THE OTHER BEAKER, PREPARE ANOTHER SOLUTION OF + 57% NITRIC ACID AND 43% SULFURIC ACID (%'S ARE ON A WEIGHT RATIO RATHER THAN + VOLUME). + +2. TEN GRAMS OF THE FIRST SOLUTION ARE POURED INTO AN EMPTY BEAKER AND PLACED + IN AN ICE BATH. + +3. ADD TEN GRAMS OF TOLUENE, AND STIR FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. + +4. REMOVE THIS BEAKER FROM THE ICE BATH AND GENTLY HEAT UNTIL IT REACHES 50 + DEGREES C. THE SOLUTION IS STIRRED CONSTANTLY WHILE BEING HEATED. + +5. FIFTY ADDITIONAL GRAMS OF THE ACID, FROM THE FIRST BEAKER, ARE ADDED AND THE + TEMPERATURE IS ALLOWED TO RISE TO 55 DEGREES C. THIS TEMPERATURE IS HELD FOR + THE NEXT TEN MINUTES, AND AN OILY LIQUID WILL BEGIN TO FORM ON THE TOP OF + THE ACID. + +6. AFTER 10 OR 12 MINUTES, THE ACID SOLUTION IS RETURNED TO THE ICE BATH, AND + COOLED TO 45 DEGREES C. WHEN REACHING THIS TEMPERATURE, THE OILY LIQUID WILL + SINK AND COLLECT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BEAKER. AT THIS POINT, THE REMAINING + ACID SOLUTION SHOULD BE DRAWN OFF, BY USING A SYRINGE. + +7. FIFTY MORE GRAMS OF THE FIRST ACID SOLUTION ARE ADDED TO THE OILY LIQUID + WHILE THE TEMPERATURE IS SLOWLY BEING RAISED TO 83 DEGREES C. AFTER THIS + TEMPERATURE IS REACHED, IT IS MAINTAINED FOR A FULL HALF HOUR. + +8. AT THE END OF THIS PERIOD, THE SOLUTION IS ALLOWED TO COOL TO 60 DEGREES C. + , AND IS HELD AT THIS TEMPERATURE FOR ANOTHER FULL HALF HOUR. AFTER THIS, + THE ACID IS AGAIN DRAWN OFF, LEAVING ONCE MORE ONLY THE OILY LIQUID AT THE + BOTTOM. + +9. THIRTY GRAMS OF SULFURIC ACID ARE ADDED, WHILE THE OILY LIQUID IS GENTLY + HEATED TO 80 DEGREES C. ALL TEMPERATURE INCREASES MUST BE ACCOMPLISHED + SLOWLY AND GENTLY. + +10. ONCE THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE IS REACHED, 30 GRAMS OF THE SECOND ACID + SOLUTION ARE ADDED, AND THE TEMPERATURE IS RAISED FROM 80 DEGREES C. TO 104 + DEGREES C. , AND IS HELD FOR THREE HOURS. + +11. AFTER THIS THREE-HOUR PERIOD, THE MIXTURE IS LOWERED TO 100 DEGREES C. AND + IS HELD THERE FOR A HALF HOUR. + +12. AFTER THIS HALF HOUR, THE OIL IS REMOVED FROM THE ACID AND WASHED WITH + BOILING WATER. + +13. AFTER THE WASHING WITH BOILING WATER, WHILE BEING STIRRED CONSTANTLY, THE + TNT WILL BEGIN TO SOLIDIFY. + +14. WHEN THE SOLIDIFICATION HAS STARTED, COLD WATER IS ADDED TO THE BEAKER, SO +THAT THE TNT WILL FORM INTO PELLETS. ONCE THIS IS DONE, YOU HAVE A GOOD QUALITY +TNT. + +NOTE: THE TEMPERATURES USED IN THE PREPARATION OF TNT ARE EXACT, AND MUST BE + USED AS SUCH. DO NOT ESTIMATE OR USE APPROXIMATIONS. BUY A GOOD + CENTIGRADE THERMOMETER. +Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..181e999d --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt.txt @@ -0,0 +1,57 @@ +How To Make TNT +--------------- + + Probably the most inportant explosive compound in use today is +TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other types of high explosives are all used by +the military, because of their fantastic power--about 2.25 million pounds per +square inch, and their great stability.TNT also has the great advantage of +being able to be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells, +mortars, and any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which +resemble dry-cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an electrical charge, +coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although there are different methods. + Preperation of TNT: + 1. take two beakers. In the first, prepare a solution of 76 percent sulferic +acid (battery acid), 23 percent nitric acid, and 1 percent water. In the other +beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent +sulferic acid (percentages on a weight ratio rather than volume). + 2. Ten grams of the first solution are poured into an empty beaker and +placed in an ice bath. + 3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. + 4. Remove thebeaker from the ice bath and gently heat it untill it reaches +50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. + 5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and +the temperature is allowed to rise to 55 degrees C. This temperature is heald +for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of +the acid. + 6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, +and cooled to 45 degrees C. When reaching this temperature, the oily liquid +will sink to the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acid +should be drawn off, by using a syringe. + 7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid +while the temperature is *slowly* being raised to 83 Degrees C. After this +temperature is reached, it is maintained for a whole half hour. + 8. At the end of this period, the solution should be allowed to cool to 60 +degrees C., and is heald at this temperature for another full half hour. After +this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving only the oily liquid at the bottom. + 9. Thirty grams of sulferic acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently +heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accomplished slowly +and gently. + 10. Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second +solution of acid are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 degrees C to +104 degrees C., and is heald for three hours. + 11. After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. +and is heald there for a half an hour. + 12. after this half hour, the oil is removed from the acid and washed with +boiling water. + 13. After the washing with boiling water, while being stirred constantly, +the TNT will begin to solidify. + 14. When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, +so that the TNT will form into pellets. +Once this is done, you have a good quality of TNT. + +***NOTE***: the temperatures used in this preperation of TNT are exact, and +must be used as such.Do not estimate or use approximations. Buy a good +centigrade thermometer. + + ************************************************* + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt2.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt2.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..9cc8a55a --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tnt2.ana @@ -0,0 +1,82 @@ +(>READ> HOW TO MAKE TNT +How to make TNT + +By THE SCREAMER +*s*c**re*a***m**e**r* + +Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT +(trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high explosives are +all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25 +millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability. TNT also has +the great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it +can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT +comes in containers which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually +ingnited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electical blasting cap, +although there are other methods. + +Preparation of TNT + +1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric +acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, +prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric +acid (percentages are on a weight ratio rather than volume). + +2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and +placed in an ice bath. + +3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. + +4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches + 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. + +5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and +the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will +begin to form on the top of the acid. + +6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, +and cooled to 45 begrees C> when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid +will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the +remaining acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe. + +7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid +while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this +temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour. + +8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to +60 degrees C>, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. +After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily +liquid at the bottem. + +9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently +heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished +slowly and gently. + +10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid +solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 degrees C> +to 104 degrees C., and is held for three hours. + +11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. +and held there for a half hour. + +12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with + boiling water. + +13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the +TNT will begin to solidify. + +14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, +so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a +good quality TNT. + +NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, +and must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. +Buy a good centigrade thermometer and be sure it is calibrated. +This mixture is not forgiving to screw-ups! + +The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for +this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY. + +***s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r* +(>*s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r* +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS...... + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/toilbomb.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/toilbomb.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..5e09fa9e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/toilbomb.ana @@ -0,0 +1,26 @@ + +****************************************************************************** +* * +* The Toilet Bomb * +* * +* By Angus Young * +* * +* Call the.. * +* * +* The Cemetary BBS 300/1200 * +* 312/848-3394 * +* * +* Ripco International 300/1200/2400 * +* 312/528-5020 * +* * +****************************************************************************** + + +DISCLAIMER: Why the hell do people always write these stupid things??? If some dumb fuck gets hurt while he trys to make this thats there problem not mine. If they want to they can spend a half a year trying to find out my name and address and then spend a couple hundred dollars to sue me, I dont care. + + +Ok, now that we got that out of the way I can tell you what all this is about. +Now that the end of the year is coming and many people are graduating from High School there will be a lot of people making pranks at school. So i decided to do the same. The first thing you will need is some water proof wick, the stuff that i bought was $2.00 (Get it at any hobby store that sells rockets and stuff like that) and i got 10 ft. of it and the wick burns at 30 sec/ft. which is pretty slow for wicks. The second thing you will need is a water proof container. I used a little bottle of Carmex and just took all the shit out of it and made a little hole in the metal top. Just about any glass or metal container will work. If you find that the container has a little hole in it or that water slowly leaks through the lid then just use some wax to seal the holes. The last thing you need is some explosives. A good explosive that can be easly made is that shit that they put in the model rocket engines. Just go to the store and buy some rocket engines (not bottle rockets) and make sure you get the big ones (they cost about $3 for two or three). Then just take a screwdriver or something sharp and scrap out all the black powder shit from it. Now take they black shit and grind it up into a fine powder. It is important that you do this because if you just use the big chunks it wont work as good. You can always use firecrakers too. Just crack them in half and and squeeze and twist them at the same time and the silvery stuff will come out. You will be surprised at how much powder there is in some firecrackers. Of course a home brewed explosive of your own kind can also be used. + +Now for the construction of the toilet bomb. First thing to do is fill up the container with your explosive and if you want a crack toilet put some BB's or small rocks in there too. Now take about 3 feet of the wick (or enough wick to make it burn for a minute or two) and stick it all the way down into the explosive. Now take the cap and make a hole in it and screw it on. Now get a candle and get some wax and seal up any holes in the container and put some wax around where the wick goes through the cap. After you do this and the wax dries be careful not to move the wick around too much cause it will crack the wax and tCall The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/toilet.bom b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/toilet.bom new file mode 100644 index 00000000..c3e8caad --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/toilet.bom @@ -0,0 +1,63 @@ +****************************************************************************** +* * +* The Toilet Bomb * +* * +* By Angus Young * +* * +* Call the.. * +* * +* The Cemetary BBS 300/1200 * +* 312/848-3394 * +* * +* Ripco International 300/1200/2400 * +* 312/528-5020 * +* * +****************************************************************************** + + +DISCLAIMER: Why the hell do people always write these stupid things??? If some dumb fuck gets hurt while he trys to make this thats there problem not mine. If they want to they can spend a half a year trying to find out my name and address and then spend a couple hundred dollars to sue me, I dont care. + + +Ok, now that we got that out of the way I can tell you what all this is about. +Now that the end of the year is coming and many people are graduating from High School there will be a lot of people making pranks at school. So i decided to do the same. The first thing you will need is some water proof wick, the stuff that i bought was $2.00 (Get it at any hobby store that sells rockets and stuff like that) and i got 10 ft. of it and the wick burns at 30 sec/ft. which is pretty slow for wicks. The second thing you will need is a water proof container. I used a little bottle of Carmex and just took all the shit out of it and made a little hole in the metal top. Just about any glass or metal container will work. If you find that the container has a little hole in it or that water slowly leaks through the lid then just use some wax to seal the holes. The last thing you need is some explosives. A good explosive that can be easly made is that shit that they put in the model rocket engines. Just go to the store and buy some rocket engines (not bottle rockets) and make sure you get the big ones (they cost about $3 for two or three). Then just take a screwdriver or something sharp and scrap out all the black powder shit from it. Now take they black shit and grind it up into a fine powder. It is important that you do this because if you just use the big chunks it wont work as good. You can always use firecrakers too. Just crack them in half and and squeeze and twist them at the same time and the silvery stuff will come out. You will be surprised at how much powder there is in some firecrackers. Of course a home brewed explosive of your own kind can also be used. + +Now for the construction of the toilet bomb. First thing to do is fill up the container with your explosive and if you want a crack toilet put some BB's or small rocks in there too. Now take about 3 feet of the wick (or enough wick to make it burn for a minute or two) and stick it all the way down into the explosive. Now take the cap and make a hole in it and screw it on. Now get a candle and get some wax and seal up any holes in the container and put some wax around where the wick goes through the cap. After you do this and the wax dries be careful not to move the wick around too much cause it will crack the wax and the water will get in. If you really want to be sure that no water gets in you can some aluminum foil and make a hole in it and place in inside the container on top of the explosive and then make sure the wick is already in there and fill up the rest of the container with wax and then put the cap on. + + + \ wick + \ + \ + +\+ put wax here around wick + -------\------- + !+++++++\+++++! + !+++++++/+++++! + /*******/*******\ + /%%%%%%%/%%%%%%%%%\ + /%%%%%%%/%%%%%%%%%%%\ + !%%%%%%%%\%%%%%%%%%%%%! + !%%%%%%%%%\%%%%%%%%%%%! + !%%%%%%%%%%\%%%%%%%%%%! + !%%%%%%%%%%%\%%%%%%%%%! + !---------------------! + + + + = WAX + * = FOIL + % = EXPLOSIVE + + +USAGE: + + Now that its all done take the little fucker to school and get out of a study period or any other class about 1 or 2 minutes before the passing bell rings. Go to on of the stalls and place the bomb in the water (make sure some of the wick doesnt get wet so you can start the bitch on fire). Now pull out your trusty lighter and light the bitch and get the fuck out of there. + +WHAT SHOULD HAPPEN: + + Since i did this 3 times (only 1 time in school) i basicly know what should happen. Your results may vary since you will probably use a diffrent container or a diffrent explosive. The first time i didnt use any rocks or anything and the bitch just blew up and the water went flyin all over and it was louder then hell. The second time i put some BB's and rocks and other shit in it and it cracked the toilet and put about 20 dents in the stall walls. The third time i did it i used the same stuff as before except the bomb slid down the pipe after i lit it and all the water came out of the toilet but it didnt crack. + + +Call the Cematary:312/848-3394 + Ripco: 312/528-5020 + Inner Space:403/963-0658 +If you have any questions or have any suggestions just let me know. Just call any of those BBS and tell me your results + +Brought to you bye Angus Young diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tpbomb.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tpbomb.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..0930ce38 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tpbomb.txt @@ -0,0 +1,27 @@ + +Toilet Paper Bomb by The Unicorn + +Materials: + +matches +a used,clean toilet paper roll +some toilet paper +some plastic coated playing cards + +1. Go outside, unless you have really extensive home insurance +2. Make sure toilet paper roll is clean (has no toilet paper on it.) +3. Rip four playing cards (It will not work if they're not plastic-coated) +4. Stuff shredded cards inside middle oftoilet paper roll +5. Shred a little toilet paper +6. Place toilet paper equally on both sides in roll +7. Light toilet paper inside roll +8. Run + +Note: of course, this will work better if you have soaked cards in gasoline. +This is not necessary, but it will blow up better! + +SysOp note: This doesn't work with some playing cards. The reason is that +when the RED and BLACK ink combine, they would form nitroglycerin. MOST card +manufacturers are no longer using the same ink formulas as they used to. Like +they say, "they don't make them like they used to..." + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/traps.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/traps.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..871629c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/traps.txt @@ -0,0 +1,221 @@ +Booby Traps +----------- + +[Road Trap] +This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. It +is extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered around +the house. The great advantage to this particular device is that the +explosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring +maximum destruction. To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holes +across a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and into +the third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from the +negative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in each +charge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The +clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to a +thin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire is +pulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing the +clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connect +the electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges. + +[Walk Trap] +This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the road +trap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussion +detonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavy +firing pin. The heat created from the detonator's explosion will be +sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effective +in dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see figure). + + ###### + ######## + #[TREE]# + ######## + ###### + || + || + /|| + !:!.;!.!.;!:;.! / || + !:;[Tall Grass];! Wire->/ || + !;::!;;.;!.;;!.;! / || + !.;..!;..;.:!.;!! / || + ______________________!.!!;.!:..!..:!.!______/_____||_________________ + -----[Board]----- / + | ______ | / + |----|heavy |---|---/ <-Safety Pin + | |firing| | + | \pin / | + | \ / | + | \/ | + | | + | | + |------####-----| <---[### = Detonator] + |///////////////| + |/////[TNT]/////| + |///////////////| + |_______________| + +[Bangalore Torpedo] +This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks of +dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus +permitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have +a small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted. +It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, and +steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, and +even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a +substitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with +electric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many +layers of each. + +[Homemade Hand Grenade] +This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a +wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the +dynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second +fuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can is +full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse. + + / + ====|==== + =.:.|.:.= + =:.:|.:.= <--[:.: = Iron Scraps] + =.:.|:.:= + =---|---= + =///+///= + =///+///= <--[+ = Non-electric Blasting Cap] + =///+///= + =///////= + =///////= <--[/// = Dynamite] + ========= + ||| + ||| <-- Wooden Handle + ||| + ||| + +[Anti-Personnel Grenade] +This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end, +either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly +with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the +detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch +tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached +to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated +with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another +piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be +hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron, +which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece +of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron or +wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the +sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will +cause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If +this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the +enemy army, there is a good change it will be set off - either by a kick or +by curiosity. + +[Book Trap] +To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The +book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place, +put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two +metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a +wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must +be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the +shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical +circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge. + +[Loose Floorboard Trap] +This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on +two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath +the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with a +metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the +loose floorboard. + +[Gate Trap] +This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To +cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and +place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure +necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure +will be released and the grenade detonated. + +[Chimney Trap] +Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a +nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape the +dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse +hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up +the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat +generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the +chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by +the very structure of the chimney. + +[Car Trap] +It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry +your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself. +Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical +ignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned, +it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good place +to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since then +the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the +front seat. + +[Pipe Trap] +There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very +similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker's +head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of +the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to +a point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the +pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the +explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker's head off. + The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A +very sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an +activated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will +attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing the +stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint. +The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the +explosives. + +[Cacodyal] +Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen, you will have to be +satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the oxygen +from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal +arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is +C4 H5 AR. Now, this new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous +inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the air. Therefore it can be put +into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown, it will +explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a +dense white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One +inhalation will probably cause death in a matter seconds. + +[Molotov Cocktail] + This is an incendiary bomb, which bursts into flame on breaking. A +quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A fuse is made of an +old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle. The +bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it +will burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with +water. These were used with varying degree of success in the struggle +in Hungary. According to some reports they can disable a tank. + +[Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices] + + A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the +pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the +metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by +steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction- +sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small +ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When +the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creating +enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge. + An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full +of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction +of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through +a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive +damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass. + An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of +matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon +combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches, +and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger +combustible material. + Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle, +friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The +candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle +burns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can +usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device. + + ************************************************ + + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tt.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tt.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8129b379 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tt.ana @@ -0,0 +1,129 @@ + + %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + %% %% + %% ============================ %% + %% How to Make Ammonium Nitrate %% + %% ============================ %% + %% %% + %% A file from THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND by: Kurt Saxon %% + %% %% + %% Plagerized by: %% + %% --==**>>THE REFLEX<<**==-- %% + %% [Member: Omnipotent, Inc.] %% + %% %% + %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + +Disclaimer: I, THE REFLEX, will accept full responsibility for any damages +=-=-=-=-=-= caused by information obtained from this text-file. As a matter + of fact, I'll let you sue me and I'll pay. All you have to do is + tell your lawyer, "It's all THE REFLEX's fault." I'll see you + when you get out of the institution. + + + Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This +can be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer. + + Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It is +roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro. + + The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of +one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated +with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to find +another file about that crap.]. + + Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap. +The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade +can be purified with distilled wood alcohol. + + Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in +enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until a +lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the +impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium nitrate. + + Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry ice +can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Locker +companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts. + + The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done +carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate +behind. + + The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the +solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed from +the alcohol. + + The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve +any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes the +solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When the +last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused. + + The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless +unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with your +bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold +will cause blisters. + + In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it +must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun. When +completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + You got here on just the right day! For a limited time only, we will be +offering this *BONUS* file to you free with the above file. That's right! Two +files for the price of one! And only from Omnipotent! + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + So you don't know what to do with your ammonium nitrate once you've made +it. You're saying to yourself, "Great! Now I have a chemical that is supposed +to blow things up, but I don't want to destroy anything [ahem?]." Well... + + LAUGHING GAS + =-=-=-=-=-=- + [snicker!] + + As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammonium +nitrate has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how to +make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. + + Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while +of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't +keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. + + Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is +because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were +inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. + + The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of +the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag +under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! + + To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply +house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. + + First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you +evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy +brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when a +drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. + + When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break +it up and store it in a bottle. + + A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube +leading into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. + + When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If +white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. + + When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + Well, there you have two files in one. No need to thank us. Just send +all "donations" to... [In this business, a since of humor is necessary!] + +Until the next one...THE REFLEX signing off as I am getting tired. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------------- +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS......304-744-2253 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/typh0001.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/typh0001.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..01065eb4 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/typh0001.txt @@ -0,0 +1,55 @@ + ACCOUNT OF THE USE OF A FORCE GRENADE + ************************************* + by + ** + TYPHON + ****** + + + This text file is the account of my first attempt at making and +using a Force Grenade as detailed in Anarchy et Discordiae's Book of +Terror (section 4.86) and written by Garbled User. + I used an empty (500ml) Jolt bottle, filled to the top of the +label with malt vinegar and added the baking soda. + The baking soda consisted of three little folded pockets of +paper towel which held about a teaspoon of baking soda each. They were +fastened with sticky tape. + I wandered over to a nearby park, waited until there was no one +around and added the final touches to the Force Grenade. That is, I +took the lid off, inserted the three paper pockets, screwed the lid on +tightly and ran away. + Bear in mind that one of these things made in a 2 litre plastic +bottle is supposed to shatter windows up to a hundred feet away. + Nothing happened. + I went back to it and had another look, I don't think the towels +had soaked through properly. I picked it up, shook it and threw it +away. Then I ran again. + Still nothing happened so I wandered over to it and kicked it, +it only appeared that the soda pockets were soaked and had expanded. + Nothing happened. + I waited a while and eventually something did happen: a guy +started doing laps of the oval. + I got bored. + I put the grenade in the hollow part of a tree and left. I'll +check on it later, but I somewhat doubt that anything happened to it +(unless someone has found it and put it in the bin. + Basically this so called "Force Grenade" is a waste of time, +though the theory is O.K. (reaction of baking soda and vinegar to +produce enough pressure to cause the bottle to explode). + White (clear) vinegar might work better, but there wasn't enough +in the house to use in even a small Jolt bottle, let alone a full 2 +litre bottle. It is also possible that the Jolt bottle is stronger and +more able to withstand the pressure created by the baking soda/vinegar +reaction. Another possible solution is to add something like thumb +nails (tacks) so that they will rip through the paper pockets if you +shake it hard enough, but that's just a theory. + This all occurred on the 18th of April, 1995. + I checked on it shortly after midnight on the 20th of April, +1995, approximately thirty-five or thirty-six hours after the event. +Still there was no change in the device's status. I carefully unscrewed +the cap and it frothed a bit as it would when one just adds the two +ingredients. + + Later, + Typhon + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..5c84c385 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw.ana @@ -0,0 +1,138 @@ +/-------------------------------------\ +[ THE BOOK OF THE ] +] UNLAWFULS [ +[ ] +] CREATED BY: [ +[ --==>>><<<==-- ] +] -SHADOWSPAWN-- [ +[ --==>>><<<==-- ] +\-------------------------------------/ + VOLUME: I + + +Welcome! To the world of Unlawful ideas. + +*THE AUTHOR IS IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR THE ACTIONS OF THE PEOPLE...THIS IS +INTENDED FOR EDUCATIONAL PERPOSES ONLY* + + -=] Section I [=- + -=] Bombs [=- + --- ----- --- + +House Hold equivalants +----- ---- ----------- + +Name Equivalant +---- ---------- +acetic acid vinegar +aluminum oxide alumia +aluminum potassium sulfate alum +aluminum sulfate alum +ammonium hydroxide ammonia +carbon carbonate chalk +carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid +calcium hypochloride bleaching powder +calcium oxide lime +calcium sulfate plaster of paris +carbonic acid seltzer +ethylene dichloride dutch fluid +ferric oxide iron rust +glucose corn syrup +graphite pencil lead +hydrochloric acid muriatic acid +hydrogen peroxide peroxide +lead acetate sugar of lead +lead tetrooxide red lead +magesium silicate talc +magesium sulfate Epsom salts +naphthalene mothballs +phenol carbolic acid +potassium bicarbonate cream of tarter +potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum +potassium nitrate saltpeter +sodium dioxide sand +sodium bicarbonate baking soda +sodium borate borax +sodium carbonate washing soda +sodium choride salt +sodium hydroxide lye +sodium silicate water glass +sodium sulfate glaubers' salt +sodium thiosulfate photographers hypo +sulferic acid battery acid +sucrose cane sugar +zinc choride tinner's fluid +------------ -------------- + + -=] Smoke Bomb [=- + --- ----- ---- --- + +Mix: + 4 parts sugar + - ----- ----- + 6 parts potassium nitrate + +Heat: +over low flame till melts stir well, then pour into container. Before it sold- +ifies, put a few matches in for fuses. + +*One pound of this stuff will fill a block nicely with a thick cloud of white +smoke* + + + + -=] Generic bomb [=- + --- ------- ---- --- + +1) Aquire a glass container +2) Put in a few drops of gasoline +3) Cap the top +4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates +5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff from a snake + bite kit) +6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object. + + *AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN* + *LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS* + *ABOUT 1/2 STICK OF DYNAMITE* + + + -=] Section II [=- + -=] Hacking [=- + --- ------- --- + + -=] Conferance calls [=- + --- ---------- ----- --- +*I recomend that you do this local* + +To make a conference call with as many people you want, just call the operator +("0") and say "Hello, I'd like to make a conference call." Then give the +(first) Names (not pirate names, ether) and the phone #'s of the people you +want to call And she'll do it.(hint: make sure that the people you are callin +are expecting it. because its damn annoying to be talking to 3 people and +having the third be busy for the whole time + ----- ---- + + -=] Charge-a-call phones [=- + --- ------------- ------ --- + +On a charge-a-call phone (there blue but dont have any coin slots) take a hex +wrench (with a hole in the middle) and remove the screw in the middle for an +extention! + + -=] Free calls [=- + --- ---- ----- --- + +From a pay phone, (the kind that gives yo a dial tone AFTER you put in the +dime) and drop in your dime. Then dial the #, then put another dime in! It'll +come back out when you finish your call. + +Until next time...... + + + Comming soon to a bbs near you.. + + -=] Book of the Unlawfuls II [=- + +--------------------------------------- + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw1.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw1.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..6f60e082 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw1.txt @@ -0,0 +1,166 @@ + + /----------------------------\ + [ THE BOOK OF THE ] + ] UNLAWFULS [ + [ ] + ] CREATED BY: [ + [ ] + [ --==>>><<<==-- ] + ] -SHADOWSPAWN-- [ + [ --==>>><<<==-- ] + ] [ + [ Distrubuted by: ] + ] [ + ] ---------> |``````````| [ + ] |Hawaiian | [ + ] | Heat | ] + ] |__________| [ + ] ] + \----------------------------/ + + VOLUME: I + + + WELCOME! TO THE WORLD OF UNLAWFUL IDEAS. + +* THE author is in no way responsible for the actions of the people... This + is intended for educational purposes only * + + + + -=] SECTION I [=- + -=] BOMBS [=- + --- ----- --- + + + House Hold Equivalants + ----- ---- ----------- + + +Name Equivalant +---- ---------- +Acetic Acid Vinegar +Aluminum Oxide Alumia +Aluminum Potassium sulfate Alum +Aluminum Sulfate Alum +Ammonium Hydroxide Ammonia +Carbon Carbonate Chalk +Carbon Tetrachloride Cleaning Fluid +Calcium Hypochloride Bleaching Powder +Calcium Oxide Lime +Calcium Sulfate Plaster of Paris +Carbonic Acid Seltzer +Ethylene Dichloride Dutch Fluid +Ferric Oxide Iron Rust +Glucose Corn Syrup +Graphite Pencil Lead +Hydrochloric Acid Muriatic Acid +Hydrogen Peroxide Peroxide +Lead Acetate Sugar of Lead +Lead Tetrooxide Red Lead +Magesium Silicate Talc +Magesium Sulfate Epsom Salts +Naphthalene Mothballs +Phenol Carbolic Acid +Potassium Bicarbonate Cream of Tarter +Potassium Chromium Sulfate Chrome Alum +Potassium Nitrate Saltpeter +Sodium Dioxide Sand +Sodium Bicarbonate Baking Soda +Sodium Borate Borax +Sodium Carbonate Washing Soda +Sodium Choride Salt +Sodium Hydroxide Lye +Sodium Silicate Water Glass +Sodium Sulfate Glaubers' Salt +Sodium Thiosulfate Photographers Hypo +Sulferic Acid Battery Acid +Sucrose Cane Sugar +Zinc Choride Tinner's Fluid +------------ -------------- + + + + -=] Smoke Bomb [=- + --- ----- ---- --- + +Mix: + + 4 Parts Sugar + - ----- ----- + 6 Parts Potassium Nitrate + +Heat: + +Over low flame till melts stir well, then pour into container. Before it +soldifies, put a few matches in for fuses. + + * One pound of this stuff will fill a block nicely with a thick cloud of white + smoke * + + + + + -=] Generic Bomb [=- + --- ------- ---- --- + +1) Acquire a glass container +2) Put in a few drops of gasoline +3) Cap the top +4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates +5) Add a few drops of Potassium Permanganate (<-get this stuff from a snake + bite kit) +6) The by throwing aganist a solid object. + + * after throwing this thing run * + + * like hell this thing packs * + + * about 1/2 stick of dynamite * + + + + + -=] Section II [=- + + -=] Hacking [=- + --- ------- --- + + + -=] Conferance Calls [=- + --- ---------- ----- --- + + *** It is recommended that this only be done locally *** + + To make a conference call with as manypeople you want, just call the +operator ("0") and say "Hello, I'd like to make a conference call." Then give +the (first) names (not pirate names, either) and thephone #'s of the people you +want to call and she'll do it. (Hint: make sure that the people you are +calling are expecting it. Because its damn annoying to be talking to 3 people +and having the third be busy for the whole time. + + + -=] Charge-A-Call Phones [=- + --- ------------- ------ --- + + On a charge-a-call phone (there blue but don't have any coin slots) take a +hex wrench (with a hole in the middle) and remove the screw in the middle for +an extention! + + + -=] Free Calls [=- + --- ---- ----- --- + + From a pay phone, (the kind that gives youa dial tone after you put in the +dime) and drop in your dime. Then dial the #, then put another dime in! It'll +come back out when you finish your call. + +:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-: +| Galaxy One Spacestation ][ Dirty Bird's Nest | +| 91 Megs 150 Megs | +| (618) 234-6632 (618) 397-7687 | +:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-: +| The Donut Hole ][ -- 120 Megs -- 300/1200/2400 -- (314) 947-6326 -- 24 hrs | +:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-: + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw2.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw2.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..c40fc6ee --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlaw2.txt @@ -0,0 +1,54 @@ + + + OTHER UNLAWFULS + Written by: The Hoe Hopper + +Carbide Bomb +------------ + + This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... + + Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide +lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this +stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a +lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acedylene +carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the +glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag +nearby, you will get a nice fireball! + + +Portable Grenade Launcher +------------------------- + + If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an +aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it +burns easy) and then glue a shot shell primer into the hole left where the +ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! + + Make sure no one is nearby. Little shreds of aluminum go everywhere. + + +Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower +-------------------------- + + For this one, all you need is a car, a spark plug, ignition wire and a +switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the +tail pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. + + Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch +and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the +positive terminal on the battery. + + With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! +Again be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames +go 20 feet!!! + +:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-: +| Galaxy One Spacestation ][ Dirty Bird's Nest | +| 91 Megs 150 Megs | +| (618) 234-6632 (618) 397-7687 | +:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-: +| The Donut Hole ][ -- 120 Megs -- 300/1200/2400 -- (314) 947-6326 -- 24 hrs | +:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-: + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlawbo1.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlawbo1.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8d9dc194 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlawbo1.ana @@ -0,0 +1,172 @@ +/----------------------------\ +[ THE BOOK OF THE ] +] UNLAWFULS [ +[ ] +] CREATED BY: [ +[ --==>>><<<==-- ] +] -SHADOWSPAWN-- [ +[ --==>>><<<==-- ] +\----------------------------/ + VOLUME: I + + +Welcome! To the world of Unlawful ideas. + +*THE AUTHOR IS IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR + THE ACTIONS OF THE PEOPLE...THIS IS + INTENDED FOR EDUCATIONAL PERPOSES ONLY* + + -=] Section I [=- + -=] Bombs [=- + --- ----- --- + +House Hold equivalants +----- ---- ----------- + +Name Equivalant +---- ---------- +acetic acid vinegar +aluminum oxide alumia +aluminum potassium sulfate alum +aluminum sulfate alum +ammonium hydroxide ammonia +carbon carbonate chalk +carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid +calcium hypochloride bleaching powder +calcium oxide lime +calcium sulfate plaster of paris +carbonic acid seltzer +ethylene dichloride dutch fluid +ferric oxide iron rust +glucose corn syrup +graphite pencil lead +hydrochloric acid muriatic acid +hydrogen peroxide peroxide +lead acetate sugar of lead +lead tetrooxide red lead +magesium silicate talc +magesium sulfate Epsom salts +naphthalene mothballs +phenol carbolic acid +potassium bicarbonate cream of tarter +potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum +potassium nitrate saltpeter +sodium dioxide sand +sodium bicarbonate baking soda +sodium borate borax +sodium carbonate washing soda +sodium choride salt +sodium hydroxide lye +sodium silicate water glass +sodium sulfate glaubers' salt +sodium thiosulfate photographers hypo +sulferic acid battery acid +sucrose cane sugar +zinc choride tinner's fluid +------------ -------------- + + -=] Smoke Bomb [=- + --- ----- ---- --- + +Mix: + 4 parts sugar + - ----- ----- + 6 parts potassium nitrate + +Heat: + over low flame till melts + stir well, then pour into + container. Before it sold- + ifies, put a few matches in + for fuses. + *One pound of this stuff will fill + a block nicely with a thick cloud + of white smoke* + --- ----- ------ + + -=] Generic bomb [=- + --- ------- ---- --- + +1) Aquire a glass container +2) Put in a few drops of gasoline +3) Cap the top +4) Now turn the container around to + coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates +5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get + this stuff from a snake bite kit) +6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object. + + *AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN* + *LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS* + *ABOUT 1/2 STICK OF DYNAMITE* + + + -=] Section II [=- + -=] Hacking [=- + --- ------- --- + + -=] Conferance calls [=- + --- ---------- ----- --- +*I recomend that you do this local* + +To make a conference call with as many +people you want, just call the operator +("0") and say "Hello, I'd like to make a +conference call." Then give the (first) +Names (not pirate names, ether) and the +phone #'s of the people you want to call +And she'll do it.(hint: make sure that the +people you are callin are expecting it. +because its damn annoying to be talking to +3 people and having the third be busy for the +whole time +----- ---- + + -=] Charge-a-call phones [=- + --- ------------- ------ --- + +On a charge-a-call phone (there blue but +dont have any coin slots) take a hex wrench +(with a hole in the middle) and remove the +screw in the middle for an extention! +----- -- --- ------ --- -- ---------- + + -=] Free calls [=- + --- ---- ----- --- + +From a pay phone, (the kind that gives yo +a dial tone AFTER you put in the dime) and +drop in your dime. Then dial the #, then +put another dime in! It'll come back out +when you finish your call. +---- --- ------ ---- ---- + + + + -=] Call these awsome boards [=- + /--- ---- ----- ------ ------ ---\ + | Cpu................xxx-xxx-xxxx| + | The south pole.....xxx-xxx-xxxx| + \--- ---- ------ ----- ------ ---/ + +I, Shadowspawn would like to thank the +following people for there help..... +Wez The Warz man +Grey Wolf +Happy Hacker +Irate Pirate + +Thanx Dudes! + +Until next time...... + + + Comming soon to a bbs near you.. + + -=] Book of the Unlawfuls II [=- + + +CALL INFINITY'S EDGE: xxx-xxx-xxxx (300/1200 BAUD 10 MEGS) + +CRACKER JACK + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlawbo2.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlawbo2.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4c18b79b --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/unlawbo2.ana @@ -0,0 +1,66 @@ + + OTHER UNLAWFULS  + Written by: The Hoe Hopper  + Distributed by The Blue Buccaneer  + [> Call the EXODUS AE Line <]  + + + +Carbide Bomb +------------ + + This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exer- +cise extreme caution.... + Obtain some calcium carbide. This +is the stuff that is used in carbide +lamps and can be found at nearly any +hardware store. Take a few pieces of +this stuff (it looks like gravel) and +put it in a glass jar with some water. +Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will +react with the water to produce acedy- +lene carbonate which is similar to the +gas used in cutting torches. Eventually +the glass with explode from internal +pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! + + +Portable Grenade Launcher +------------------------- + + If you have a bow, this one is foryou. Remove the ferrule from an aluminumarrow, and fill the arrow with black +powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into +the hole left where the ferrule went. +Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you +are ready to go! + Make sure no one is nearby. Littleshreds of aluminim go everywhere. + + +Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower +-------------------------- + + For this one, all you need is a +car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a +switch. Install the spark plug into the +last four or five inches of the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can +screw into easily. + Attach the wire (this is regular +insulated wire) to one side of the +switch and to the spark plug. The other +side of the switch is attached to the +positive terminal on the battery. + With the car running, simply hit +the switch and watch the flames fly!!! +Again be careful that no one is behind +you! I have seen some of these flames +go 20 feet!!! + + +====================================== + + + +CALL INFINITY'S EDGE: xxx-xxx-xxxx (300/1200 BAUD 10 MEGS) + +CRACKER JACK + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/us-dynam.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/us-dynam.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8274b09c --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/us-dynam.txt @@ -0,0 +1,45 @@ + + XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX + Xx xX + Xx American Dynamite xX + Xx xX + Xx By The Rocker xX + Xx of xX + Xx Metallibashers Inc. xX + Xx xX + Xx for: ==Phrack Inc.== xX + Xx xX + XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX + +Recipe: + +Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid. The acid made of 2 parts of 70% +nitric and 3 parts of 100% sulfuric. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for +30 min. and let it separate. Take the mononitrotolulene and mix 100 part of it +with 215 parts of acid. This acid is 1 part pure nitric and 2 parts pure +sulfuric. Keep the temperature at 60- 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed. +Raise temp to 90-100 and stir for 30 min. The dinitrotoluene is separated and +mix 100 parts of this stuff with 225 parts of 20% oleum which is 100% sulfuric +with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid. Heat at +95 degrees for 60 min. Then at 120 degrees for 90 min. + +Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the +powder by soaking it in benzyne. + + Presto! American Dynamite! + +Thanx to S.A. for the idea! Thanx to Phrack Inc. for just being a sponsor! + +Don't forget to call these systems after you obliterate someone's house with +that T.N.T... + ======================================= + Speed Demon Elite..........415/522-3074 + High Times.................307-362-1736 + Metalland South............404-576-5166 + Brainstorm Elite...........612-345-2815 + Atlantis...................215-844-8836 + ======================================= + +Metallizing, + The Rocker/MBI + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/usebomb.bgr b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/usebomb.bgr new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4f5e91bb --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/usebomb.bgr @@ -0,0 +1,37 @@ + + BGR presents: + Saftey for using explosives + By: Abigwar + + +1. When opening case, do not use crow bar or wedge. Use a wooden wedge or +nonmetalic tool. + +2. Do not smoke, or allow smokers or other sorces of heat around explosives. + +3. Do not place explosives where they mite be exposed to flame, excessive +heat, sparks or shock. + +4. Replace cover or replace top of container after use. + +5. Do not carry explosives on you. Keep in a saperate container. + +6. When making primars or crimping blasting caps, do not do it near other +explosives, High or low. + +7. Blasting caps arnt toys. + +8. Never insert any thing but a fuse into a blasting cap. + +9. Never tamper with a blasting cap. + +10. When using explosives the only people around should be those absoultly +neseicary to it. + +11. Do not be near explosives during a electrical storm. + +12. Inspect all equitment before use. + +13. Never try to use a soaked explosive. + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vandal.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vandal.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..4f7fcb5c --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vandal.txt @@ -0,0 +1,228 @@ + + + +READ: the vandals handbook vol. i + + + +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +Ý Ý +Ý T H E Ý +Ý Ý +Ý \ / ^ Ý\ Ý Ý\ ^ Ý Ý--- Ý +Ý \ / /_\ Ý \ Ý Ý > /_\ Ý Ý___ Ý +Ý V / \ Ý \Ý Ý/ / \ Ý__ ___Ý Ý +Ý Ý +Ý H A N D B O O K Ý +Ý Ý +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +Ý Ý +Ý BY: CAPT. CHAOS Ý +Ý Ý +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +>>>>>> C02 CARTRIDGE BOMBS <<<<<< + + YOU WILL HAVE TO USE UP THE NEW CARTRIDGE BY EITHER SHOOTING IT IN A C02 +B-B GUN OR USE IT IN A C02 CAR OR WHAT EVER ELSE YOU MIGHT FIGURE OUT TO DO +WITH IT. WITH A NAIL, FORCE THE HOLE BIGGER SO AS TO ALLOW THE POWDER AND +WICK TO FIT IN EASILY. FILL THE CARTRIDGE WITH BLACK POWDER AND PACK IT IN +THERE REAL GOOD BY TAPPING THE BOTTOM OF THE CARTRIDGE ON A HARD SURFACE. +INSERT A FUSE (I RECOMMEND GOOD WATER PROOF CANNON FUSE, BUT I'VE USED FIRE- +CRACKER FUSES.) LIGHT IT AND RUN!!! IT DOES WONDERS FOR A ROW OF MAIL BOXES. +BE CAREFUL HOWEVER, THIS LITTLE BEAUTY THROWS SHRAPNEL AND CAN BE QUITE A +HAZARD. + +>>>>>>THERMITE BOMBS<<<<<< + + THE FIRST STEP IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF A THERMITE BOMB IS TO GET SOME +IRON-OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS A GOOD WAY TO MAKE SARGE QUANTITIESIN A SHORT +TIME: FIRST YOU WILL NEED A DC CONVERTER WHICH CAN BE FOUND ON A RACE TRACK +OR TRAIN TRACK. CUT THE CONNECTOR OFF, SEPERATE THE TWO WIRES, AND STRIP THEM +BOTH. YOU WILL SECONDLY NEED A JAR OF WATER WHICH HAS BEEN DILUTED WITH SALT +TO MAKE THE WATER A CONDUCTOR (USE ABOUT A TABELSPOON.) THEN INSERT BOTH +WIRES INTO THE SOLUTION AND DETERMINE WHICH BUBBLES THE MOST. YOU THEN NEED +TO TIE A COMMON IRON NAIL TO THE ONE THAT BUBBLES THE MOST (THE POSITIVE WIRE) +, IF YOU DONT YOU WILL GET THE OPPOSITE OF RUST...RUST ACID! PUT THE NAIL +TIED TO THE POSITIVE WIRE AND THE NEGATIVE WIRE IN THE JAR ON OPPOSITE SIDES +UNTILL THEY ARE BOTH COMPLETELY SUBMERGED. LET THAT SET OVER NIGHT AND THEN +REMOVE THE (CRUSTY) STUFF OFF THE NAIL AND REMOVE THE WIRES. LET THIS SET +UNTILL A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF THE CRUST IS AT THE BOTTOM. REMOVE THE EXCESS +WATER AND POUR THE CRUSTY SOLUTION IN A COOKIE SHEET AND LET IT DRY OUT IN THE +SUN FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS, OR OVER NIGHT. IT SHOULD BE A ORANGE-BROWN COLOR, +THOUGH I'VE HAD IT MANY DIFFEREN'T COLORS. CRUSH THE RUST IN TO A FINE POWDER +AND HEAT IT IN A CAST IRON POT UNTILL ITS READ (IM NOT SURE WHAT THAT DOES.) + NOW MIX THE IRON-OXIDE WITH PURE ALUMINUM FILINGS WITCH CAN BE BOUGHT OR +FILED DOWN BY HAND FROM AN ALUMINUM TUBE OF BAR. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS +OF RUST PER 3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM. THATS THERMITE!!! + NOW, TO LIGHT IT YOU MUST GET SOME MAGNESIUM WHICH IS SORTA HARD TO GET +FOR ME CAUSE MY HARDWARE STORE DONT HAVE IT. I FINALLY FOUND THAT I COULD GET +A PERFECT PIECE OF MAGNESIUM RIBON FROM THE CHEMISTRY LAB! THIS RIBBON IS THE +FUSE OF THE BOMB. IT TAKES THE HEAT FROM THE BURNING MAGNESIUM TO LIGHT THE +THERMITE...BUT TO LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM YOU NEED A BLOW TORCH, (DONT WORRY, THE +BLOW TORCH IS NOT HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE THERMITE). WELL KEEP YOUR THERMITE +IN A BAG AND THEN WHEN YOU SEE AN INOCENT CAR...POUR A SMALL AMOUNT OF +THERMITE ON THE HOOD, STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM IN IT AND THEN LIGHT THE +MAGNESIUM WITH THE BLOW TORCH AND WATCHIT BURN RIGHT THROUGH THE HOOD, THE +BLOCK, THE AXEL, AND SPARK AND FLARE ON THE PAVEMENT. BE CAREFUL...THE IDEAL +MIXTURES CAN VAPORIZE CARBONIZED STEEL (WHICH IS DAMN HOT!) HAVE FUN! + +>>>>>>TOUCH EXPLOSIVE<<<<<< + + THIS IS SORT OF A MILD EXPLOSIVE, BUT CAN BE DANGEROUS IN LARGE QUANTIES. +TO MAKE TOUCH EXPLOSIVE (SUCH AS THAT FOUND IN A SNAP AND POP, BUT MORE +POTENT) MIX IODINE CRYSTALS INTO AMONIA UNTIL THE IODINE CRYSTALS WILL NOT +DISOLVE INTO THE AMONIA ANY MORE. LET IT SET UNTIL YOU GET A WHITE +PERCIPITATE AT THE BOTTOM...POUR OFF THE EXCESS AMONIA AND DRY OUT THE +CRYSTALS THE SAME WAY AS THE THERMITE. BE CAREFULL NOW CAUSE THESE DRIED +CRYSTALS ARE YOUR TOUCH EXPLOSIVES! I HAVEN'T FOUND A GOOD USE FOR IT YET, +BUT ITS FUN TO THROW AT PEOPLE OR LEAVE IT IN THEIR CHAIRS AT SCHOOL...IT +CAN GET PAINFUL IF APPLIED PROPERLY! + + +>>>>>>LETTER BOMBS<<<<<< + + YOU WILL FIRST HAVE TO MAKE A MILD VERSION OF THERMITE AS MENTIONED +ABOVE, HOWEVER YOU WILL USE JUST PLAIN IRON FILINGS INSTEAD OF RUST. MIX THE +IRON FILING WITH THE ALUMINIUM FILINGS IN A RATIO OF 75% ALUMINUM WITH 25% +IRON. THIS MIXTURE WILL BURN VIOLENTLY IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE (SUCH AS AN +ENVELOPE,) WHICH BRINGS US TO THE NEXT INGREDIENT. GO TO THE POST OFFICE OR +BUSINESS SUPPLY STORE AND BUT AN INSULATED (PADDED) ENVELOPE. THE TYPE THAT +IS DOUBLE LAYERED. SEPERATE THE LAYERS AND PLACE THE MILD THERMITE IN THE +MAIN SECTION, WHERE THE LETTER WOULD GO. THEN PLACE MAGNESIUM POWDER IN THE +OUTTER LAYER. THERES YOUR BOMB...NOW TO LIGHT IT! + THIS IS THE TRICKY PART AND IS HARD TO EXPLAIN IN WRITING, EXPERIEMENT +WITH THIS IDEA UNTIL YOU HAVE GOT IT RIGHT. OK, THE FUSE IS JUST THAT TOUCH +EXPLOSIVE PLACED WHERE THE LETTER WOULD BE TORN OPEN. YOU MAY WANT TO WRAP IT +LIKA A LONG CIGERETTE AND THEN PLACE IT AT THE TOP OF THE ENVELOPE IN THE +OUTTER LAYER (ON TOP OF THE POWDERED MAGNESIUM.) WHEN THE TOUCH EXPLOSIVE IS +TORN OR EVEN SQUEEZED HARD IT WILL IGNIGHT THE POWDERED MAGNESIUM (SORT OF A +FLASH LIGHT) AND THEN IT WILL BURN THE MILD THEMITE. I'VE NEVER SENT ONE OF +THESE SO I DONT REALLY KNOW IF IT WORKS GOOD. I DO KNOW THAT THE THERMITE +BURNS REAL HOT AND IF IT DIDNT BLOW UP IT WOULD GIVE SOME ONE A BAD BURN +(THERMITE DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH!!) + + +>>>>>>PAINT BOMBS<<<<<< + + TO MAKE A PAINT BOMB YOU SIMPLY NEED A METAL CAN WITH A FASTENABLE LID, +A NICE BRIGHT COLOR PAINT, AND A QUANTITY OF DRY ICE. PLACE THE PAINT IN THE +CAN AND THEN DROP THE DRY ICE IN. QUICKLY PLACE THE LID ON TIGHTLY AND THEN +RUN. WITH SOME TESTING YOU CAN GET IT DOWN SO YOU HAVE A TIMER THAT WORKS ON +HOW MUCH ICE YOU HAVE COMPARED WITH HOW MUCH PAINT YOU HAVE. IF YOU'RE REALLY +PISSED AT SOMEONE, YOU COULD PLACE IT ON THEIR DOORSTEP, NOCK ON THE DOOR, AND +THEN RUN!!! ENOUGH BOMBS....LETS WORK ON CARS. + +>>>>>>WAYS TO SEND A CAR TO HELL<<<<<< + + THERE ARE A THOUSAND AND ONE WAYS TO DESTROY A CAR BUT I WILL ONLY COVER +THOSE WHICH ARE MOST FUN AND HARDEST TO FIND OUT ABOUT. + PLACE THERMITE ON THE HOOD AS MENTIONED ABOVE, PLACE BURNING MAGNESIUM +ON THE HOOD, TAPE A Co2 BOMB TO THE (AXEL, HOOD, WHEEL, MUFFLER, ALL), PUT +A TAMPON, DIRT, SUGAR, A PING PONG BALL, JUST ABOUT ANYTHING) IN THE GAS TANK. +PUT (POTATOES, BANANAS, ROCKS, OR ANYTHING THAT WILL FIT) IN THE EXAUST PIPE. +PUT A LONG RAG IN THE GAS TANK AND CATCH IT ON FIRE (RUN REAL FAR). MAKE A +JIMMEY AND PICK THE LOCK AND THEN STEAL THE STEREO....ILL TRY TO DRAW A +PICTURE...CUT ONE OF THOSE THIN METAL RULERS IN THE PATTERN GIVEN BELOW: + +____________________________________________________ ____ + Ý__Ý \ + Ý + Ý--Ý / +---------------------------------------------------- ---- + +THE IMPORTANT PART ARE THE NOTCHES ON THE SIDES WHICH ARE USED TO PULL UP ^ ON +THE CABLE WHICH PULLS UP THE LOCK! GET STEREOS, EQUILIZERS, RADAR DETECTORS, +CAR GUNS, AND THEN DESTROY THE INSIDE ( A KNIFE IS HANDY FOR THE SEATS.) + + +>>>>>>HATE SCHOOL???<<<<<< + + ONE OF MY FAVORITES FOR GETTING OUT OF A CLASS OR TWO IS TO CALL IN A BOMB +THREAT...TELL THEM ITS IN A LOCKER, THEN THEY HAVE TO CHECK THEM ALL AND THAT +TAKES AND HOUR AT OUR SCHOOL...I'VE EVEN PLACE A FAKE BOMB IN A LOCKER (NOT +MINE), CALLED IT IN, AND THEY CALLED OFF SCHOOL FOR THE WHOLE WEEK!! (LITTLE +DID I KNOW THAT WE HAD TO MAKE IT UP DURING THE SUMMER). OR YOU COULD GET +SOME PURE POTASSIUM OR PURE SODIUM, PUT IN A CAPSULE AND FLUSH IT DOWN A +TOILET.....FLOpdQtS[Ý3ÛpUAU@Ýxggm ÝÀlyfaÜl Àe +h ddkc+ER....ON A TEACHERS +CAR, ON A DOOR NOB, OR ON A SCHOOL COMPUTER. USE A SMOKE GRENADE IN THE +CAFETERIA, HALLS, OR BATHROOMS. STEAL KEYS OFF THE SCHOOL COMPUTERS, STEAL +THE 80COL CARDS INSIDE, OR ANY OF THE CARDS! PUT A LARGE MAGNET ON THE +MONITORS. MAKE FRIENDS WITH STUDENT ASSISTANTS IN THE COUNCELING OFFICE +AND HAVE THEM CHANGE YOUR GRADE WHEN TEACHERS HAND IN THEIR BUBBLE SHEETS +FOR THE REPORT CARDS. SPIT YOUR GUM OUT ON THE CARPETED FLOOR AT SCHOOL, AND +WATCH THE JANITORS CRY. DRAW ON LOCKERS OR WRITE ON THE BUILDING THAT THE +PRINCIPAL IS A FACIST...OURS OFFERED A 1000.00 REWARD AFTER I DID THAT!! I +WANTED TO TURN MYSELF IN!! USE YOUR IMAGINATION! + + +>>>>>>PHONE RELATED VANDALISM<<<<<< + + IF YOU LIVE WHERE THERE ARE UNDERGROUND LINES THEN YOU WILL BE ABLE TO +RUIN SOMEONES PHONE LIFE VERY EASILY. ALL YOU MUST DO IS GO TO THEIR HOUSE +AND FIND THE GREEN JUNCTION BOX THAT INTERFACES THEIR LINE (AND POSSIBLY +SOME OTHERS IN THE NEIGHBOR HOOD) WITH THE MAJOR LINES. THESE CAN BE FOUND +JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE BUT THEY ARE USUALLY UNDERNEATH THE NEAREST PHONE POLE. +TAKE A SOCET WRENCH AND LOSEN THE NUT ON THE RIGHT. THEN JUST TAKE CLIPPERS +OR A SLEDGE HAMMER OR A BOMB AND DESTROY THE INSIDES AND PULL UP THEIR PHONE +CABLE....CUT IT INTO SEGMENTS SO IT CANT BE FIXED BU MUST BE REPLACED...THERES +A WEEK OF WORK!!! OR YOU CAN DO MY FAVORITE, CALL THEM WITH A DIRECTORY +DIALER FOR ABOUT A WEEK...THEY WONT GET ANOTHER CALL BESIDES YOURS FOR THAT +ENTIRE WEEK! HOW A BOUT CALLING THE PHONE COMPANY AND HAVIG IT DISCONECCTED +FOR A WHILE, OR HAVE THEIR MAIL HELD FOR A MONTH OR TWO (SAY YOUR GOING ON +VACATION AND GIVE THEM THEIR ADDRESS.) + + +>>>>>>MISC.<<<<<< + + HOW ABOUT GOING INTO TARGET AND SETTING THE ALARMS ON THE RADIOS AND +THEN CRANK THE VOLUME....FIVE MINUTES LATER...WHILE YOU FAR FAR AWAY IN +ANOTHER PART OF THE STORE....YOU HEAR RADIOS CRANKED GOING OFF AND PEOPLE +FRANTICALLY TRYING TO TURN IT OFF....DO SOME PRICE SWITCHING, FOR YOURSELF +OR TO GET SOMEONE ELSE IN TROUBLE. BE CREATIVE...THERES ALWAYS A WAY TO BE +OBNOXIOUS AND ANNOYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! + +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +Ý Ý +Ý WATCH FOR: THE VANDALS HANDBOOK VOLUME ][ Ý +Ý INCLUDING: BOX PLANS, EXPLODING ARROWS, AND HAND GRENADES! Ý +Ý Ý +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ + /'\ THANX TO: The I/O ERROR /'\ + (THOUGH HE DIDN'T DO MUCH) +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ + + + I WOULD LIKE TO CLOSE BY SAYING THAT CAPT. WUSS SHOULD BE BLACK BOOKED +FOR LYING AND GENERALLY MAKING AN ASSHOLE OF HIMSELF...... + + + -CAPT. CHAOS + +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ + +%> +(> +A> +(> + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + + Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 + Rat Head Ratsnatcher 510-524-3649 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 + + Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, + arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality, + insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. + + Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, + where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vandhand.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vandhand.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..a6beceae --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vandhand.ana @@ -0,0 +1,197 @@ +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +| | +| T H E | +| | +| \ / ^ |\ | |\ ^ | |--- | +| \ / /_\ | \ | | > /_\ | |___ | +| V / \ | \| |/ / \ |__ ___| | +| | +| H A N D B O O K | +| | +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +| | +| BY: CAPT. CHAOS | +| | +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +>>>>>> C02 CARTRIDGE BOMBS <<<<<< + + YOU WILL HAVE TO USE UP THE NEW CARTRIDGE BY EITHER SHOOTING IT IN A C02 +B-B GUN OR USE IT IN A C02 CAR OR WHAT EVER ELSE YOU MIGHT FIGURE OUT TO DO +WITH IT. WITH A NAIL, FORCE THE HOLE BIGGER SO AS TO ALLOW THE POWDER AND +WICK TO FIT IN EASILY. FILL THE CARTRIDGE WITH BLACK POWDER AND PACK IT IN +THERE REAL GOOD BY TAPPING THE BOTTOM OF THE CARTRIDGE ON A HARD SURFACE. +INSERT A FUSE (I RECOMMEND GOOD WATER PROOF CANNON FUSE, BUT I'VE USED FIRE- +CRACKER FUSES.) LIGHT IT AND RUN!!! IT DOES WONDERS FOR A ROW OF MAIL BOXES. +BE CAREFUL HOWEVER, THIS LITTLE BEAUTY THROWS SHRAPNEL AND CAN BE QUITE A +HAZARD. + +>>>>>>THERMITE BOMBS<<<<<< + + THE FIRST STEP IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF A THERMITE BOMB IS TO GET SOME +IRON-OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS A GOOD WAY TO MAKE SARGE QUANTITIESIN A SHORT +TIME: FIRST YOU WILL NEED A DC CONVERTER WHICH CAN BE FOUND ON A RACE TRACK +OR TRAIN TRACK. CUT THE CONNECTOR OFF, SEPERATE THE TWO WIRES, AND STRIP THEM +BOTH. YOU WILL SECONDLY NEED A JAR OF WATER WHICH HAS BEEN DILUTED WITH SALT +TO MAKE THE WATER A CONDUCTOR (USE ABOUT A TABELSPOON.) THEN INSERT BOTH +WIRES INTO THE SOLUTION AND DETERMINE WHICH BUBBLES THE MOST. YOU THEN NEED +TO TIE A COMMON IRON NAIL TO THE ONE THAT BUBBLES THE MOST (THE POSITIVE WIRE) +, IF YOU DONT YOU WILL GET THE OPPOSITE OF RUST...RUST ACID! PUT THE NAIL +TIED TO THE POSITIVE WIRE AND THE NEGATIVE WIRE IN THE JAR ON OPPOSITE SIDES +UNTILL THEY ARE BOTH COMPLETELY SUBMERGED. LET THAT SET OVER NIGHT AND THEN +REMOVE THE (CRUSTY) STUFF OFF THE NAIL AND REMOVE THE WIRES. LET THIS SET +UNTILL A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF THE CRUST IS AT THE BOTTOM. REMOVE THE EXCESS +WATER AND POUR THE CRUSTY SOLUTION IN A COOKIE SHEET AND LET IT DRY OUT IN THE +SUN FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS, OR OVER NIGHT. IT SHOULD BE A ORANGE-BROWN COLOR, +THOUGH I'VE HAD IT MANY DIFFEREN'T COLORS. CRUSH THE RUST IN TO A FINE POWDER +AND HEAT IT IN A CAST IRON POT UNTILL ITS READ (IM NOT SURE WHAT THAT DOES.) + NOW MIX THE IRON-OXIDE WITH PURE ALUMINUM FILINGS WITCH CAN BE BOUGHT OR +FILED DOWN BY HAND FROM AN ALUMINUM TUBE OF BAR. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS +OF RUST PER 3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM. THATS THERMITE!!! + NOW, TO LIGHT IT YOU MUST GET SOME MAGNESIUM WHICH IS SORTA HARD TO GET +FOR ME CAUSE MY HARDWARE STORE DONT HAVE IT. I FINALLY FOUND THAT I COULD GET +A PERFECT PIECE OF MAGNESIUM RIBON FROM THE CHEMISTRY LAB! THIS RIBBON IS THE +FUSE OF THE BOMB. IT TAKES THE HEAT FROM THE BURNING MAGNESIUM TO LIGHT THE +THERMITE...BUT TO LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM YOU NEED A BLOW TORCH, (DONT WORRY, THE +BLOW TORCH IS NOT HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE THERMITE). WELL KEEP YOUR THERMITE +IN A BAG AND THEN WHEN YOU SEE AN INOCENT CAR...POUR A SMALL AMOUNT OF +THERMITE ON THE HOOD, STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM IN IT AND THEN LIGHT THE +MAGNESIUM WITH THE BLOW TORCH AND WATCHIT BURN RIGHT THROUGH THE HOOD, THE +BLOCK, THE AXEL, AND SPARK AND FLARE ON THE PAVEMENT. BE CAREFUL...THE IDEAL +MIXTURES CAN VAPORIZE CARBONIZED STEEL (WHICH IS DAMN HOT!) HAVE FUN! + +>>>>>>TOUCH EXPLOSIVE<<<<<< + + THIS IS SORT OF A MILD EXPLOSIVE, BUT CAN BE DANGEROUS IN LARGE QUANTIES. +TO MAKE TOUCH EXPLOSIVE (SUCH AS THAT FOUND IN A SNAP AND POP, BUT MORE +POTENT) MIX IODINE CRYSTALS INTO AMONIA UNTIL THE IODINE CRYSTALS WILL NOT +DISOLVE INTO THE AMONIA ANY MORE. LET IT SET UNTIL YOU GET A WHITE +PERCIPITATE AT THE BOTTOM...POUR OFF THE EXCESS AMONIA AND DRY OUT THE +CRYSTALS THE SAME WAY AS THE THERMITE. BE CAREFULL NOW CAUSE THESE DRIED +CRYSTALS ARE YOUR TOUCH EXPLOSIVES! I HAVEN'T FOUND A GOOD USE FOR IT YET, +BUT ITS FUN TO THROW AT PEOPLE OR LEAVE IT IN THEIR CHAIRS AT SCHOOL...IT +CAN GET PAINFUL IF APPLIED PROPERLY! + + +>>>>>>LETTER BOMBS<<<<<< + + YOU WILL FIRST HAVE TO MAKE A MILD VERSION OF THERMITE AS MENTIONED +ABOVE, HOWEVER YOU WILL USE JUST PLAIN IRON FILINGS INSTEAD OF RUST. MIX THE +IRON FILING WITH THE ALUMINIUM FILINGS IN A RATIO OF 75% ALUMINUM WITH 25% +IRON. THIS MIXTURE WILL BURN VIOLENTLY IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE (SUCH AS AN +ENVELOPE,) WHICH BRINGS US TO THE NEXT INGREDIENT. GO TO THE POST OFFICE OR +BUSINESS SUPPLY STORE AND BUT AN INSULATED (PADDED) ENVELOPE. THE TYPE THAT +IS DOUBLE LAYERED. SEPERATE THE LAYERS AND PLACE THE MILD THERMITE IN THE +MAIN SECTION, WHERE THE LETTER WOULD GO. THEN PLACE MAGNESIUM POWDER IN THE +OUTTER LAYER. THERES YOUR BOMB...NOW TO LIGHT IT! + THIS IS THE TRICKY PART AND IS HARD TO EXPLAIN IN WRITING, EXPERIEMENT +WITH THIS IDEA UNTIL YOU HAVE GOT IT RIGHT. OK, THE FUSE IS JUST THAT TOUCH +EXPLOSIVE PLACED WHERE THE LETTER WOULD BE TORN OPEN. YOU MAY WANT TO WRAP IT +LIKA A LONG CIGERETTE AND THEN PLACE IT AT THE TOP OF THE ENVELOPE IN THE +OUTTER LAYER (ON TOP OF THE POWDERED MAGNESIUM.) WHEN THE TOUCH EXPLOSIVE IS +TORN OR EVEN SQUEEZED HARD IT WILL IGNIGHT THE POWDERED MAGNESIUM (SORT OF A +FLASH LIGHT) AND THEN IT WILL BURN THE MILD THEMITE. I'VE NEVER SENT ONE OF +THESE SO I DONT REALLY KNOW IF IT WORKS GOOD. I DO KNOW THAT THE THERMITE +BURNS REAL HOT AND IF IT DIDNT BLOW UP IT WOULD GIVE SOME ONE A BAD BURN +(THERMITE DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH!!) + + +>>>>>>PAINT BOMBS<<<<<< + + TO MAKE A PAINT BOMB YOU SIMPLY NEED A METAL CAN WITH A FASTENABLE LID, +A NICE BRIGHT COLOR PAINT, AND A QUANTITY OF DRY ICE. PLACE THE PAINT IN THE +CAN AND THEN DROP THE DRY ICE IN. QUICKLY PLACE THE LID ON TIGHTLY AND THEN +RUN. WITH SOME TESTING YOU CAN GET IT DOWN SO YOU HAVE A TIMER THAT WORKS ON +HOW MUCH ICE YOU HAVE COMPARED WITH HOW MUCH PAINT YOU HAVE. IF YOU'RE REALLY +PISSED AT SOMEONE, YOU COULD PLACE IT ON THEIR DOORSTEP, NOCK ON THE DOOR, AND +THEN RUN!!! ENOUGH BOMBS....LETS WORK ON CARS. + +>>>>>>WAYS TO SEND A CAR TO HELL<<<<<< + + THERE ARE A THOUSAND AND ONE WAYS TO DESTROY A CAR BUT I WILL ONLY COVER +THOSE WHICH ARE MOST FUN AND HARDEST TO FIND OUT ABOUT. + PLACE THERMITE ON THE HOOD AS MENTIONED ABOVE, PLACE BURNING MAGNESIUM +ON THE HOOD, TAPE A Co2 BOMB TO THE (AXEL, HOOD, WHEEL, MUFFLER, ALL), PUT +A TAMPON, DIRT, SUGAR, A PING PONG BALL, JUST ABOUT ANYTHING) IN THE GAS TANK. +PUT (POTATOES, BANANAS, ROCKS, OR ANYTHING THAT WILL FIT) IN THE EXAUST PIPE. +PUT A LONG RAG IN THE GAS TANK AND CATCH IT ON FIRE (RUN REAL FAR). MAKE A +JIMMEY AND PICK THE LOCK AND THEN STEAL THE STEREO....ILL TRY TO DRAW A +PICTURE...CUT ONE OF THOSE THIN METAL RULERS IN THE PATTERN GIVEN BELOW: + +____________________________________________________ ____ + |__| \ + | + |--| / +---------------------------------------------------- ---- + +THE IMPORTANT PART ARE THE NOTCHES ON THE SIDES WHICH ARE USED TO PULL UP ^ ON +THE CABLE WHICH PULLS UP THE LOCK! GET STEREOS, EQUILIZERS, RADAR DETECTORS, +CAR GUNS, AND THEN DESTROY THE INSIDE ( A KNIFE IS HANDY FOR THE SEATS.) + + +>>>>>>HATE SCHOOL???<<<<<< + + ONE OF MY FAVORITES FOR GETTING OUT OF A CLASS OR TWO IS TO CALL IN A BOMB +THREAT...TELL THEM ITS IN A LOCKER, THEN THEY HAVE TO CHECK THEM ALL AND THAT +TAKES AND HOUR AT OUR SCHOOL...I'VE EVEN PLACE A FAKE BOMB IN A LOCKER (NOT +MINE), CALLED IT IN, AND THEY CALLED OFF SCHOOL FOR THE WHOLE WEEK!! (LITTLE +DID I KNOW THAT WE HAD TO MAKE IT UP DURING THE SUMMER). OR YOU COULD GET +SOME PURE POTASSIUM OR PURE SODIUM, PUT IN A CAPSULE AND FLUSH IT DOWN A +TOILET.....FLOOpdQtS[|3{pUAU@|}xggm |`lyfa}l `e +h ddkc+ER....ON A TEACHERS +CAR, ON A DOOR NOB, OR ON A SCHOOL COMPUTER. USE A SMOKE GRENADE IN THE +CAFETERIA, HALLS, OR BATHROOMS. STEAL KEYS OFF THE SCHOOL COMPUTERS, STEAL +THE 80COL CARDS INSIDE, OR ANY OF THE CARDS! PUT A LARGE MAGNET ON THE +MONITORS. MAKE FRIENDS WITH STUDENT ASSISTANTS IN THE COUNCELING OFFICE +AND HAVE THEM CHANGE YOUR GRADE WHEN TEACHERS HAND IN THEIR BUBBLE SHEETS +FOR THE REPORT CARDS. SPIT YOUR GUM OUT ON THE CARPETED FLOOR AT SCHOOL, AND +WATCH THE JANITORS CRY. DRAW ON LOCKERS OR WRITE ON THE BUILDING THAT THE +PRINCIPAL IS A FACIST...OURS OFFERED A 1000.00 REWARD AFTER I DID THAT!! I +WANTED TO TURN MYSELF IN!! USE YOUR IMAGINATION! + + +>>>>>>PHONE RELATED VANDALISM<<<<<< + + IF YOU LIVE WHERE THERE ARE UNDERGROUND LINES THEN YOU WILL BE ABLE TO +RUIN SOMEONES PHONE LIFE VERY EASILY. ALL YOU MUST DO IS GO TO THEIR HOUSE +AND FIND THE GREEN JUNCTION BOX THAT INTERFACES THEIR LINE (AND POSSIBLY +SOME OTHERS IN THE NEIGHBOR HOOD) WITH THE MAJOR LINES. THESE CAN BE FOUND +JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE BUT THEY ARE USUALLY UNDERNEATH THE NEAREST PHONE POLE. +TAKE A SOCET WRENCH AND LOSEN THE NUT ON THE RIGHT. THEN JUST TAKE CLIPPERS +OR A SLEDGE HAMMER OR A BOMB AND DESTROY THE INSIDES AND PULL UP THEIR PHONE +CABLE....CUT IT INTO SEGMENTS SO IT CANT BE FIXED BU MUST BE REPLACED...THERES +A WEEK OF WORK!!! OR YOU CAN DO MY FAVORITE, CALL THEM WITH A DIRECTORY +DIALER FOR ABOUT A WEEK...THEY WONT GET ANOTHER CALL BESIDES YOURS FOR THAT +ENTIRE WEEK! HOW A BOUT CALLING THE PHONE COMPANY AND HAVIG IT DISCONECCTED +FOR A WHILE, OR HAVE THEIR MAIL HELD FOR A MONTH OR TWO (SAY YOUR GOING ON +VACATION AND GIVE THEM THEIR ADDRESS.) + + +>>>>>>MISC.<<<<<< + + HOW ABOUT GOING INTO TARGET AND SETTING THE ALARMS ON THE RADIOS AND +THEN CRANK THE VOLUME....FIVE MINUTES LATER...WHILE YOU FAR FAR AWAY IN +ANOTHER PART OF THE STORE....YOU HEAR RADIOS CRANKED GOING OFF AND PEOPLE +FRANTICALLY TRYING TO TURN IT OFF....DO SOME PRICE SWITCHING, FOR YOURSELF +OR TO GET SOMEONE ELSE IN TROUBLE. BE CREATIVE...THERES ALWAYS A WAY TO BE +OBNOXIOUS AND ANNOYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! + +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +| | +| WATCH FOR: THE VANDALS HANDBOOK VOLUME ][ | +| INCLUDING: BOX PLANS, EXPLODING ARROWS, AND HAND GRENADES! | +| | +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ + /'\ THANX TO: The I/O ERROR /'\ + (THOUGH HE DIDN'T DO MUCH) +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ + + + I WOULD LIKE TO CLOSE BY SAYING THAT CAPT. WUSS SHOULD BE BLACK BOOKED +FOR LYING AND GENERALLY MAKING AN ASSHOLE OF HIMSELF...... + + + -CAPT. CHAOS + +/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\/'\ +Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vulcan.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vulcan.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ab03354b --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/vulcan.txt @@ -0,0 +1,260 @@ + + + + The Vulcan Bomb + ---------------- + + Concieved and Designed by the SysOp of... + Starbase 2000, The Void. + (215) 493 - 4492 3/12/2400 baud, 24 hours + 40 Megs OnLine, Handles Allowed! + ----------------------------------------- + + Intro + ===== + + This is the Ultimate Molitov Cocktail. It burns longer + and hotter than US Army Napalm, and is intended to be used + only in matters of revenge, self defense, or in the destruction + of the Federal Government of the United States of America. + Hail Anarchy, Manson Lives!! + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + Requirements: + -------------- + + A) 1-2 gallons of Gasolene of K-1 Kerosene. Gasolene is best! + B) Approximately 2 cubic feet of packing styrofoam, the kind + that comes in the box when you buy computer equipment, etc. + C) Approximately 12 oz. of candle wax, that you can get from + an ordinary candle. + D) Fuse. I recommend just going to a hobby shop and buying the + fuse they sell, it's reliable and burns at a constant + 3 seconds : Inch. + E) One large Tupperware-style plastic container to put this stuff + in. + F) A well-ventilated and cool place to build this bomb. + +----------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + How To Make It + + The "Vulcan Bomb" is essentially a miniature supernova. It + will burn, burn, BURN, **BURN** for about 10 minutes or longer, + and will generate tremendous amounts of heat and light while doing + so. Basically, whatever you put on top of this or pour this on + will be destroyed. + + Take your gasolene/kerosene and pour it into your plastic container. + I recommend plastic, and not metal. But if you are going to be storing + this bomb for any length of time, use a metal or plaster container + because the plastic will begin to dissolve after awhile. + + Now take your styrofoam and grind it up as best you can, using a saw or + a file. An electric sander would be the best tool to use if you have + one! Grind it up as finely as you can, and when you're done grinding it + up, pour the ground styrofoam into the container with the gasolene. + Stir it for about 2 minutes, and then let it sit. The gas/kerosene + will react with the materials in the styrofoam, and in about an hour + or so you'll have a very combustible soup. If the gasolene has begun + to dry up after the hour, add a few ounces more and stir it as best + you can. + + Now take your candles and grind them up with a hammer or file. Break + the wax into small pieces, but they do not have to be as finely ground + as the styrofoam did before. Just dump the wax on top of your + mixture, and try to coat it as evenly as possible on the top, since + eventually this wax will dissolve and help form a top layer over the + bomb to keep it from breaking down over time. + + Before everything totally solidifies, take your fuse or detonator + (terrorist's choice!) and insert it several inches deep into the bomb + so that it won't fall out during combat conditions. If you are using + fuse, make sure you have enough! Know how long it burns and how long + you will need! + + Wait another hour or two for everything to completely settle down, + and now your Vulcan Bomb is all set for the battle ground. + + There are several ways to use this bomb. + +---------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + Uses + ==== + + #1 Super Nova! Take the entire Bomb and place it underneath/on top + of or next to whatever you want destroyed. Cars, small houses + (or even big houses!), government buildings, police headquarters, + etc., etc., and light the fuse and run! Be sure to hide + somewhere and laugh while your bomb does what it was designed + to do...destroy property!! It's best to dump this mixture + onto the walls of the building if you want to burn a house/ + building down totally. Throw it on the walls like gasolene and + then light it. Otherwise you'll just have a huge bonfire + that might not totally burn down the place. + + #2 Selective Anarchy! Take a cup full of the Vulcan Bomb and + insert the fuse. Use heavy-duty electrical masking tape to + hold the fuse inside the cup. Find a tight-fitting lid that + won't fall off when you throw it. Light the fuse, throw it + as hard as you can, and you've got yourself an inexpensive + incindiary grenade! + + #3 Fire Perimeter! Take the entire Vulcan Bomb mixture, and pour + it slowly around the perimeter of your Anarchy Headquarters. + A full mixture as written above should give you a circle about + 20 yards in diameter. But you may need more. Increase the + size of the Vulcan Bomb mixture if needed. Anyway, after + you have surrounded your campsite with the bomb mixture, strike + a match and light it! This is particularly usefull if the FBI + pigs are coming in to get you. Just sit tight in the middle of + your circle and laugh while the Government Pigs burn! It + might get a little hot, so it might be wise to dig yourself + a small fox hole before you are forced to do this last-ditch + defense. + + + I hope you enjoyed this little file. Use this bomb! + Destroy the US Government, once and for all! Then we will + go out and free our Leader, Charles Manson. Manson + is God. Hail Anarchy. + + --------------------------------------------------------- + + This File was written on the 20th Anniversary of the + Sharon Tate Murders commited by the Manson Family, + August 8th, 1969. + + --------------------------------------------------------- + Call Starbase 2000 BBS at 215/493-4492 + 300/1200/2400 baud, 40+ Megs. 24 hours + !Anarchy Text Files in Sub Menu! + SysOp: The Vulcan + --------------------------------------------------------- + + + + + The Vulcan Grenade + ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ + + Concieved, Designed and Tested by + The System Operator of... + Starbase 2000, The Void + (215) 493 - 4492 300/1200/2400 + TONS of gfiles,xfers,and great msg bases! + ------------------------------------------------------------ ---------- + + Intro: + ~~~~~~ + + This is a very simple explosive device that does the most + damage out of any bomb in it's class. It's easy enough to build + and it's actually practical to make about a dozen of them in + a few hours, put them in your Anarchy Bag, and go and attack + the local police station, all in the same night! + Disclaimer: + ~~~~~~~~~~~ + + Unfortunately there are alot of biffwhacked people out there + who are bound to blow off parts of their anatomy with this + device, so I'm forced to drop all responsibility for this file + and this explosive weapon. Pity, I kind of liked this bomb and + I think it's really cute. Well, I also think Charles Manson is + cute but anyway... + + ------------------------------------------------------------ ------------ + + Materials: + ~~~~~~~~~~ + + 1. CO2 bottles (for BB guns) that you can buy at + any Woolworth or store that sells pellet guns. + 2. Fuse. Good old fuse. Don't be cheap, get the + good stuff. They sell it at most hobby shops that + carry parts for model rockets. + 3. Black Powder, aka Gun Powder. This might be + difficult for some people, especially those who + are deprived and don't have any guns at home. + Personally I would die if I didn't have any guns + at home but... anyway back to the gunpowder. + Use either FFF or FFFF. If you can't get ahold + of black powder, you're screwed and can't use this + bomb. In the future if I feel like it I'll write + a file on how to make black powder. It's real easy + but *VERY* dangerous. So if you don't have any + black powder sit tight and wait for my next file. + - If you have smokeless powder, don't use it. It + HAS to be black powder because black powder explodes, + which is what you want. Smokeless powder like the + kind you use for reloading won't build up enough + pressure and your Vulcan Grenade won't do anything. + 4. Rubber Cement or model glue. You only need a very + small amount. Even Elmer's Glue is good in a pinch. + ------------------------------------------------------------ ------------- + The Fun Stuff + ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ + + Take one of your CO2 bottle and empty it out. You can + pop the cartridge in one of your BB guns and shoot holes in + the neighbors windows like I used to or you can just take an + electric drill and drill a hole in the top of the bottle and + get the CO2 out that way. If you use the drill, be carefull + because when the CO2 comes out very fast the bottle becomes + supercooled and you could get frostbite on your hand. Wear + mittens or better yet a pot holder. You should be in a well + ventilated area when you do this as well because you'll have + a cloud of CO2 floating around which isn't poisonous but + could suffocate you because only plants breate CO2 not people. + + After you have an empty CO2 bottle, take a funnel like you + would use for changing oil in your car, put the small end on + the neck of the empty CO2 bottle, and pour as much black + powder into the bottle are you can fit. Stuff it in there. + + Now take your fuse, which should be slightly smaller in + diameter than the hole in the neck of the CO2 bottle. Insert + the fuse into the bottle. If the fuse won't fit, take your + electric drill and use a larger drill bit and make the hole + just big enough for the fuse to fit in. Don't worry if it's + not a perfectly airtight fit, it never is. Make sure the fuse + goes inside the bottle at least 3/4 an inch, preferrably + even deeper. It should be in well enough so that you don't + have to worry about it falling out. If you have to spill out + a LITTLE bit of black powder, that's okay. + + Now we'll make finish everything up. Take the rubber cement + or model glue, and put a few drops around the opening of the + CO2 bottle. Don't use tons and tons of it, just 3 or 4 drops. + Use enough just to give you a good seal around the edge of the + fuse where it enters the bottle. It doesn't have to be a super + tight indestructable seal. Just enough to keep the black powder + from pouring out while you're carrying it. + + *KNOW HOW MUCH FUSE YOU NEED*. Commercial hobby shop fuse + burns ABOUT 3 seconds to the inch. Use at LEAST 8 to 10 inches + of fuse. This bomb is small but it will kill EVERYTHING within + a radius of about 10 to 15 yards. I buried one in the ground and + lit it and it blew chunks of mud about 10 feet high and made + a crater about 4 feet in diameter. This is a shrapnel explosive, + which means itsey bitsey pieces of steel come flying towards + you at speeds of up to 500 miles per hour which then bury + themselves into your flesh and cause great traumatic damage + leaving you and your friends dead and scattered all over the + ground. This bomb is very LOUD. We're talking MEGA LOUD. + Basically you don't want to be within 1/2 mile of this thing when + it explodes if you're in a quiet neighborhood becase EVERYONE + within about 1/4 mile or more will hear it go off. This is a + good bomb to stick inside the muffler of a police car, light the + fuse and TAKE OFF. The pigs will be delighted to know that + yet another one of their vehicles has been the target of + a Vulcan Device. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + ** Stamp Out Cops ** + This has been a public service announcement + of the Starbase 2000 BBS at 215/493-4492 300/1200/2400baud + ** Free Charles Manson ** + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warhead.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warhead.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..9dbf20c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warhead.txt @@ -0,0 +1,118 @@ + (((((((((((())The Kid, Lewd Po8, and Thermite Special Present(())))))))))))) + )( )( + )( M I N I - W A R H E A D )( )( + )( )( + )( Design : Thermite Special )( + )( Text File/Distribution : The Kid )( + )( Lazy Ass : Lewd Po8 )( + (((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))(((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))) )( + )(Home Board : Hidden Mansion [Node 1] )( + )( 916/481.2954 )( + )()))))))))))))))))(((((((((((((((((((()( + How many times have you wanted to napalm the shit outta someone with plenty +of time to get away????? That's why Thermite Special came up with this +prototype Warhead.. Targeting's a bitch, the Mini-WArhead is basically +hit-n-run... Enough of the intro shit, here's the warhead... + + + +Supplies +--------- + +(1) Skillet (Electric) +(Shitloads) Salt Peter +(A Few) Pounds of Granulated Sugar +(1) PVC Pipe +(1) Inch or so of Fuse +(2) Test Tubes (Opt, but makes it easier) +(4) Or so Model Rocket Fins +(1) Model Rocket Nosecone +(1) Model Rocket Launcher (opt.) + +Step 1 +------- + + Put the salt peter in your eletric skillet (or a pan on an ELECTRIC stove, or +a double boiler) Cook until `gooey'. + +Step 2 +------- + +Mark those two test tubes into tenths, the salt peter should reach the sixth +mark, the granulated sugar to the fourth. (don't put em in the same tubes +idiot) + +Step 3 +------- + + Making the rocket: + Take the pvc pipe. Put the nosecone on top. Glue on the fins. ( Refer + to the diagram before putting the rocket together.) + +Step 4 +------- + + Dump both tubes into the PVC pipe, then mix well. Repeat steps 1 & 2 until +the pipe is full. + +Step 5 +------- + + Launching : + Stand the rocket on the launching pad, light the 1/2 or so of cannon + fuse and run like hell (I shoot a rocket into the air. Where it lands I + know not where) + + + +Diagram Of Warhead : +--------------------- + Trigger / Nosecone + -------- \ / --------- + m80 or \ /^\ / Fill with explosives, napalm, + m100 \ /+++\ / chlorine, etc. etc. etc. + \|+++++| / + |\+!++| / + Fuse \ |+\!++| + ----- \ |++!++| + Cannon \ |++!++| + Fuse \| ( | + |\ ) | + | \( | + Rocket Fuel | ) | Fins + ------------ \ |@@(@@| / ----- + The salt peter \ |@@@@@| / Four, one + and sugar \ |@@@@@| / each side.. + mixture |@@@@@| / + /|@@@@@|\ / + / |@@@@@| \ / + / |@@@@@| \ / + / |@@@@@| \ / + / |@@@@@| \ + / |@@@@@| \ + /------|@@@@@|------\ + ) + ( + ) Fuse + ( / ----- + ) / 'Bout a half inch of cannon fuse or + ( / whatever. + ) + ( + + (ASCII art by The Kid ... ) + +---------------------------- + + Subsitute for bottle rockets. + Launch into picnics, off bridges, etc. etc. etc. + Have fun! + +---------------------------- + +Coming Soon : CO2 Gas Laser, Locking, and a short story by Lewd Po8 + +Call The Hidden Mansion [Node 1] 916/481.2954 + Sysop : Laser Eye + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warvoli.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warvoli.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..754ecc94 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warvoli.txt @@ -0,0 +1,130 @@ +**************************************** +* * +* WAR! * +* * +* A helpful series of philes * +* * +* by: * +* * +*========>The Spirit Of Radio<=========* +* * +* Call Speed Demon! * +* (415) 522-3074 * +* * +**************************************** + + +[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] +[ ] +[ VOLUME I ] +[ ] +[ Gathering information ] +[ ] +[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] + + In the course of phreaking, many conflicts may arise. These may be small +scuffles among individuals, or large scale wars between phreak groups. This +series of philes was intended to assist those persons to help the wise to win +and triumph over the poor and foolish. However, I shall claim NO +RESPONSIBILITY WHATSOEVER for whatever mischief that may arise from the actions +as described in this series, nor for mistakes appearing hereafter. With this +in mind, welcome to the mighty world of phreak war! + + +============ += VOLUME I = +============ + + Gathering information may be the most enjoyable, or the most aggravating +of a phreak war depending upon the way in which it is approached. It basically +involves the real world identification of an individual by his alias. The +order in which this info. should be attained is: + + I. Alias + II. Phone Number + III. Name + IV. Address + + In this volume, I will discuss all ways known to me (that I choose to +disclose) used to obtain the preceeding information. + + +Phone Number +------------ + Once you have the name of the phreak you are going to destroy, getting his +phone number should be of little trouble. Many phreaks will disclose others' +phone numbers at request, but if this person is powerful and threatening and +others choose to refrain from openly disclosing his phone number, then it is +time to turn around and call up your friendly neighborhood sysop. Knowing +sysops can be very helpful, for if the individual is a validated member of the +sysop's board it is very probable that the phreak's phone number was required +(and recorded) for validation. + If you do not know the sysop of the local board, getting his phone number +should be rather simple. Call up your local CN/A bureau and say, "Hello. This +is Jim Reynolds from the local business office and I'd like the name of the +customer who is at xxx-xxx-xxxx" [xxx-xxx-xxxx should be the board number] +(some CN/A's service more than one area code). The operator will return +shortly with the name and residing city of the person who owns the line (this +works for unlisted numbers, as most boards are unlisted anyway). Then, just +crosscheck the sysop's last name in the phone book. Then, eliminate all those +listings that are from cities that the SYSOP doesn't live in. Call the +remaining numbers (about 3-4) and ask for the sysop BY HANDLE. Then, once you +get the correct number, write it down and tell the sysop who you are (by +handle) and tell him the handle of the guy who you're trying to destroy. If +he's nice and helpful (as most sysops are) he'll go check his userlist and find +the guy's number (amazing as it is, a lot of people these days still use their +real numbers when calling a board). + +Name +---- + When you have his number, his name should be relatively easy to get. Just +CN/A him and take down the city and last name. Then, call him up and ask for +him by handle. When he comes to the phone, tell him you're some dude (like The +Pirate or something) and say you'd like to trade some wares. Talk about games +for awhile and say "By the way, my name's John. What's yours?" Write his +first name down, and continue to talk for a little while. Then, suddenly say, +"My mom has to make a call. I'll call you back in 5 minutes. Bye." Whatever +you do, make sure he doesn't convince you to give him your phone number and for +him to call you back. If this happens, it is more than likely for you to +become the target. + +Address +------- + When you have his name and phone number, address is a breeze. If his +phone number is listed in the book, this part is no sweat. Just call the +library and tell them you want to do a crisscross by phone number. Give them +the dude's # and presto! If the librarian speaks English, he'll have the +address for you in a flash! (Illegal aliens may take a bit longer). Another +simple method is just looking him up in the phone book (if his last name is +sorta uncommon) and you can manually scan through it. + + +This is the end of Part I. Coming up in Part II: Striking your enemy from home. + + +THE SPIRIT OF RADIO +Neon Knights + + + + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + + Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 + Rat Head Ratsnatcher 510-524-3649 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 + + Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, + arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality, + insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. + + Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, + where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warvolii.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warvolii.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8452ed87 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/warvolii.txt @@ -0,0 +1,175 @@ +**************************************** +* * +* WAR! * +* * +* A helpful series of philes * +* * +* by: * +* * +*========>The Spirit Of Radio<=========* +* * +* Call Speed Demon! * +* (415) 522-3074 * +* * +**************************************** + + +[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] +[ ] +[ VOLUME II ] +[ ] +[ Attacking from home ] +[ ] +[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] + + In the course of phreaking, many conflicts may arise. These may be small +scuffles among individuals, or large scale wars between phreak groups. This +series of philes was intended to assist those persons to help the wise to win +and triumph over the poor and foolish. However, I shall claim NO +RESPONSIBILITY WHATSOEVER for whatever mischief that may arise from the actions +as described in this series, nor for mistakes appearing hereafter. With this +in mind, welcome to the mighty world of phreak war! + + +============= += VOLUME II = +============= + + This part of warring is the one I enjoy most--being able to sit back at +your desk, sip a cool glass of lemonade, and congratulate yourself on totally +causing a cloud of doom to make your enemy tremble as he tries to evade the +attacks of someone--someone whose identity remains unknown! Most of these +involve the use of the phone, but there are some that don't even do that! +Anyway, for the most part, make sure you have the most phun in the process. +One word of caution: make sure you NEVER EVER disclose your true identity to +anyone! I suggest you always use fake names/phone #'s for validation +information on all boards. In fact, don't let your victim even know your +handle. Even your best friends might reveal your identity when he tries to +strike back at you! + + +The Retail World +---------------- + Most of the stuff from home involves the annoyance of vendors to your +victim. I will do my best to categorize them, but for the most part they kind +of blend together from one to the next. + +Mail Order: CC Fraud +-------------------- + If you want to really cause a total pain in the ass for this jerk off, get +a VISA/MC #. Then just go on a carding spree, using his REAL name and REAL +address. However, just don't order pointless shit. Make it meaningful! +Either get him stuff that he can use (so it looks like he fucked the whole +thing up) or stuff to give him a definite message. Hard drives make nice +items, and when the feds come around in a couple of months, they might decide +to use his computer as evidence and confiscate it for awhile. Books and +records are good to give the guy hidden messages (Once I carded a guy on the +Compuserve mail order section 300 copies of Slayer's Hell Awaits!). Books like +"Sweet Revenge" or "Never Too Young To Die" are neat too. + +Mail Order: Phone Books +----------------------- + As you may know, you can order practically any phone book in the world by +calling a simple 800 number found in your phone book. Out of state books cost +money (around $10 ea.) and out of country ones cost even more (sometimes in +excess of $40) so this would be a really neat way to rack up his phone bill +(the charges are directly added to his monthly bill). I once ordered a guy a +whole bunch of directories spanning four continents adding to his bill a fee in +excess of $2000! It's really funny if you live nearby to check his house every +day until they come and then finding his porch, front lawn, walkway, and +driveway, piled high with mailbags and mailbags full of phone books in Greek, +Arabic, Swahili, and Chinese! It's also not fun nor easy explaining to the +phone company how it is that you accidentally got sent megga phone books! + +Mail Order: Magazines +--------------------- + This one doesn't even require a phone. The next time you go to the +dentist just rip all those business reply cards out of his magazines. When you +get home, spend an hour or two filling a nice thick stack of them out. Your +victim over the next couple of weeks will then begin to receive publishers' +bills up the butt, and have to cancel a subscription to each of them! That +isn't fun! + +Phone Order: Advertisement +-------------------------- + Call the newspapers, and advertise an article similar to this: "You too +can make calls free through MCI, GTE Sprint, and other long distance services +just by making a local call. For more information, send a self-addressed +stamped envelope to: (fill in the name and address of your victim)" After this +has appeared in the papers, inform your local FBI agent or police officer of +this ad. You can also advertise an ad like this: "128k Apple //e, Amdek Color +IV monitor, Hayes Smartmodem 2400, and much more. $200/best offer. (victim's +phone number). + +Phone Order: Miscellaneous +-------------------------- + This one causes the most hassles for your victim. Try ordering pizzas to +be delivered at midnight. Funeral wreaths (carded of course from your local +FTD florist) sent to his house with his name on the enclosed sympathy cards +make nice touches as well. For really annoying shit call up 24 hrs. plumbing +or electric services at 3 a.m. and tell them you need a rush job. Wake up +calls at his house at that time are just as bothersome. The old taxi cab +routine works nicely, as do outcall escorts somewhat late at night. Also try +exterminators, caterers, towing services, moving services, singing/striptease +telegrams, locksmiths, or family photographers. Call real estate agents and +put the house up for sale, call the cable TV company, gardeners, house +painters, window cleaners, maid services, or lawn sprinkler installers. Also, +try signing him/her up for the Sierra Club, the KKK, Neo-Nazi groups, the PLO, +the Army, Navy, Air Force, Marines, or French Foreign Legion. Always remember +to let your fingers do the walking in the yellow pages. + +Modemizing +---------- + Another nice one is involving fellow phreaks/hackers to join in the phun. +Get them to call your enemy at all times of the night, and post on all BBS's +that a new elite BBS is going up at his number. + +Phone Orders: Downright Dirty +------------------------------ + These last two are in a separate class simply because they are really +royal pains in the ass (but they aren't that hard). You can call up the +PacBell (or whatever) order office and ask to have his phone disconnected. All +you need to do is say that you're the person to whom the bill is sent and the +billing address. Other neat things are putting call waiting on Data (BBS) +lines or having phone numbers changed to unlisted numbers without a referral +(that way he might not even know his new number!). + This last one is the worst: Besides 911, each local police department has +its own 7 digit (non-tracing) emergency number. Just call that baby up +(through a PBX if you're scared, although there's really no need to) and say +"There's an intruder in my house. I live at __________. Oh no! He's coming! +Aaaaaaah!" and hang up. My friend once did this and six sheriffs with guns +drawn busted into this guy's house in the middle of the night! Also, reporting +fires in an identical manner is just as fun. + +Well, that's it for now. Next volume: Direct interaction, involving more +terrorist-oriented activities for really pissing someone off. Until then, +Later. + +THE SPIRIT OF RADIO +Neon Knights + +Note: Some of the previous ideas inspired by "How to get Revenge on Someone" +by Black Fire and Captain Cloner. + + + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + + Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm) + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845 + Rat Head Ratsnatcher 510-524-3649 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102 + + Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives, + arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality, + insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS. + + Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are, + where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother. + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/watermel.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/watermel.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..861f415c --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/watermel.txt @@ -0,0 +1,59 @@ ++-------------------------------------+ +! The Grain Alcohol Watermelon ! +! Written and created by ! +! Bullwinkle Moose ! +! Call 312-724-0807..BW's Bar BBS! ! ++-------------------------------------+ + +Welcome to the first in an endless series of Bullwinkle Moose creations... + +The Grain Alcohol Watermelon +--- ----- ------- ---------- +Concept: This creation will allow you to get drunk, without the bad taste of +alcohol, and best of all, you can safely tranport it in a car without worrying +about a cop nailing you for transporting alcohol. + +Materials Required +--------- -------- +1 watermelon (the smaller it is, the less you have to eat) +1 flask of Grain Alcohol (198 proof, or 99% alcohol) +1 small knife + +Ok, this is really simple. Get your flask of grain alcohol. Measure how +wide the mouth of the bottle is. Then, take the knife, and cut a hole in the +side of the watermelon (make it a bit smaller than the mouth of the bottle to +prevent leakage..also make sure it is pretty much ROUND). Take the cap off the +flask, and jam it in to the hole in the watermelon. *NOTE* keep the part of +the watermelon you cut out if you intend to transport the watermelon. +Ok, prop up the watermelon so the bottle is upside down. Watch for leakage. +Leave it sit for a while, and when the flask is empty, your watermelon is +ready. If you want to transport the watermelon, put the plug of watermelon +back in the hole. Then just cut the watermelon up and eat! You will be drunk +in no time. Also, if a cop sees it in your car, he will never suspect it. +The alcohol will be absorbed by the watermelon, and then will get you wasted +when you eat it. **WARNING** Keep the watermelon away from sparks or flames. +Grain alcohol is very flammable. I have never tried making a watermelon bomb, +but I'm sure it would at least burn quite a bit. Also, it is hard to tell how +much alcohol you are 'eating'. Space apart the peices you eat so you can tell +how wasted you are getting. + +Next file's subject:> Trashing phone lines, cable boxes, water meters, and + Electricity Meters. +Call Bullwinkle's Bar BBS - 312-724-0807 +_ +|his file was created by Bullwinkle Moose May 16, 1986. + + +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X + Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven + + & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845 + Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766 + realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662 + Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699 + The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK + The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674 + Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560 + + "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" +X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/wheretob.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/wheretob.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..df4672f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/wheretob.txt @@ -0,0 +1,101 @@ + +_______________________-Where to Buy Fireworks-___________________________ + + By: Red Barron + + Included in this file is a list of fireworks suppliers from around +the U.S. I have tried to include all necessary information to receive your +order with almost %100 success. In most of the cases it necessary +to send away for a catalog before you can order (I have included the price +of the catalog [if any]). + Shipment:it is advisable not to order between the months of April-August. +It is during these months that UPS hires postal inspecters who will +confiscate your order. Some companys will not ship to California however, +most only say this to avoid legal problems. You order usually arives in +about two weeks depending on where the company is located. If you use +check an order will take up to four weeks because of check verfication. +___________________________________________________________________________ + +<*> represents no shipping to California + + Eagle Fireworks Mountain States Novelty + P.O. Box 800 P.O. Box 90007 + Clackamas, OR 97015 Casper, WY 82609 + 1-503-657-8138 #-Unkown + Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $1.00 + + + Ace Fireworks North Central Industries Inc. +P.O. Box 221 DEPT. F P.O. Box 2623 +Conneaut, OH 44030 Muncie,IN 47302 + #-Unknown 317-284-7122 +Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $1.00 + + + Great Lakes Fireworks CO. Sparks Fireworks + P.O. Box 5324 8689 Lake Rd. + Cleveland, OH 44101 Seville,OH 44273 + #-Unknown #-Unknown + Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $2.00 + + + B.J. Alan Co. Fireworks Friendly Fireworks + 3800-W Southern Blvd. 1377 "K" St. N.W. + Youngstown,Oh 44507 Suite 803 + 1-800-321-9071 Washington, D.C. 20005 + Catalog: $2.00 #-Unknown + Catalog/Sample Pak: $2.00 + + + Tall Paul Inc. Spartan Fireworks + 402(HP) Washington P.O. Box 792(AH) + Chillicothe, MO 64601 Tiffon, OH 44883 + #-Unknown 1-800-821-2483 + Catalog: 7901 + Catalog: $0.50 + + + Neptune Fireworks Co. Inc. Blue Angel Company Inc.* + P.O. Box 398 P.O. Box 26, 12900 + 1320 Stirling Rd. #B Columbiana-Canfield Rd. + Dania, Florida 33004 Columbiana, OH 44408 + 1-305-920-6771 1-800-321-9071 + 1-800-835-5236 Catalog: $2.00 + Catalog: $2.00 + + + Fireworks Unlimited* China Importers Wholesalers + 8550 Route 224 P.O. Box 347212 + Deerfield, OH 44411 Parma, OH 44134 + 1-800-321-2400 #-Unknown + Catalog: $2.00 Catalog: $1.00 + + + Pyro Sonic Devices Corporation A&W Sales* + P.O. Box 711 P.O. Box 1-G + Grand Haven, Michigan 49417 Muncy, PA 17756 + 616-842-9226 #-Unknown + Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $2.00 + + +__________________________________________________________________________ + + For more information write to.. + Pyrotechnics + Box 230 A: RFD #1 + Mystic, CT 06355 + $3.50 for "Where to buy Pyrotechnics" +__________________________________________________________________________ + + Make your own Fireworks + + Norstarr + P.O. 5585 + Pocatello, ID 83202 +___________________________________________________________________________ + + + + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/woolfuse.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/woolfuse.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..75a7813e --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/woolfuse.ana @@ -0,0 +1,63 @@ +********************************** +* T R I P W I R E S * +* By * +* The Mortician * +********************************** + + + + Well first of all I reccommend +that you read the file on my board +about landmines... If you can't then +here is the conecpt. You can use an +m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other +type of elxplose that will light with +a fuse. Now the way this works is +if you have a 9volt batery, from a +radio ctlred car or what ever and +get either a solor igniter (preferably) +or some steel wool you can create +a remote ignition system. What you +do it set up a schematic like this. + + ------------------>+ batery + steel || ->- batery + wool || / + :==:--- <--fuse \ + || / + ---- spst switch--\ + +So when the switch is on the currnet +will flow through the steel wool or +igniter and heat up causing the fuse +to light. + Note: For use with steel wool +try it first and get a really thin +peice of wire and pump the current +through it to make sure it will heat +up to light the explosive. + +********************************** +Now the thing to do is plant your +explosive whereever you want it to +be but bury it and cover the wires +obviously... Now take a this wire +fishing line is good about 20 lb. +test and tie one end of the wire +to a secure object. Have your switch +secured to seomthing to and make a +loop on the other end on the line. +Put the loop around the switch such +that when pulled it will pull the +switch and set off the explosive. + +to ignite the explosive... The thing +to do is to experiment with this +and find your best method... Let me +know on any good kills, or new +techniques... On my board... + (201)376-4462 +********************************** +CALL MORDOR AE..201-528-6467 PW:ZANDAR + +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS...... \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/x-target.ana b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/x-target.ana new file mode 100644 index 00000000..ac21509c --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/x-target.ana @@ -0,0 +1,94 @@ +Exploding Target. + + +Patented 12 February 1985, US patent number 4,498,677. The patents +abstract is as follows: An explosive target for firearm marksmanship +has a hollow rectangular block-shaped body assembly including an +internal bore containing an explosive charge which detonates upon +projectile impact. A charge retaining disc forcibly inserted within the +bore retains the charge adjacent the rear wall of the body assembly. A +target imprinted on the front wall of the body assembly is coaxially +aligned with the bore. + +The patent provides that: "Any suitable stable explosive compound which +will detonate upon projectile impact may be used in practicing the +invention and there are many well-known commercially available +explosive compositions which should be suitable for this purpose. +However, I have found the following formula to be most satisfactory. + +Potassium chlorate 18 Parts by weight +Sulphur 6 do +black fine powdered aluminum (400 mesh) 6 do +Bran 2-2.5 do + +The aforementioned dry ingredients which include discrete loosely +associated granular components are preferably mixed in dry form to +produce the explosive charge." + +This 60/20/20 - 3/1/1 combination of Chlorate/Sulphur/Aluminum is +similar to formula in Shimizu's Fireworks, Thunder #3 (43/26/31), and +Tenny Davis (2/1/1) page 117. Perhaps the increased percentage of the +chlorate is to make the mixture more sensitive. + +It should be noted that the actual device may differ greatly from the +device described in its associated patent as the patent filing date is +22 March 1983, and changes/improvements may have been made since then. + +The patents cites five other patents as references, they are as +follows: + +727,419. 1903. Flying target. A round target comprising three discs, +the inner disc one being a "fulminate" one. "By the term 'fulminate' I +do not mean only an explosive or detonating substance, since material +which when hit or pierced will smoke, ignite, or burn more or less +slowly may be included by such term." There are no suggestions in the +patent as to what these substance may be composed of. + +1,091,116. 1914. Impact illuminated target for pleasure shooting. "My +invention consists in a target having its impact-surface treated with a +flash-light composition igniting on the impact of the bullet to produce +a circumscribed illumination of the target about the point of impact of +the bullet upon its surface." "As an example of such a preparation, I +may instance a composition of chlorate of potash, magnesium and +collodin applied with an ordinary brush." + +1,145,585. 1915. Target. Small animal figure &c. covered with a "paint +having therein a small proportion of explosive material, such for +instance as well-known match-making chemicals, with a component of +explosive chlorates or the like incorporated therein." The following +compositions are suggested: + +Yellow flashing + +Red phosphorus 3 Parts. +Potassium nitrate 2 do +Antimony sulfid (sic) 1 do +Glue (5% solution) 1 do + +Red flashing + +Red phosphorus 3 Parts +Strontium nitrate 1 1/2 +Lithium carbonate 1 +Antimony sulfid 1 +Glue (5% solution) 1 + +Green flashing + +Red phosphorus 3 Parts +Barium nitrate 3 +Antimony sulfid 1 +Glue (5% solution) 1 + +If you are thinking of reproducing any of the above composition, make +me a beneficiary of your life insurance policy first, I could use the +money! + +4,243,228. 1981. Remotely-perceptible impact-indicating projectile +target. There are no pyrotechnics involved in this patent. + +These targets are advertised in the Shotgun news, $26.50 per 40 targets +post paid, form Proven Products, POB 731, Higganum, CT. 06441. The add +also states that they are "Legal and safe for public use." Lots-of-luck +trying to convince the local PD your not shooting off fireworks + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/xpldpens.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/xpldpens.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..1ed8a244 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/xpldpens.txt @@ -0,0 +1,143 @@ + EXPLOSIVE PENS + + + + Here are the instructions for building a device no agent should be + +without. From the mind of "Q" himself, a device for your evaluation. + + + +Materials...... + + + + [1]-(1) "Felt" Tip Pen + + [2]-(1) "Ball" Point Pen + + [3]-(1) High quality firecracker! + + [4]-(1) 8 gram measure potassium parmagranite (optional) + + [5]-(x) Scotch Tape + + [6]-(1) Large Paper Clip + + [7]-(2) Packages of matches + + [8]-(1) Pair of scissors + + [9]-(1) Length of Beige thread + + + +Assembly...... + + + +[1]- Use thread to friction saw the felt tip pen in half at the point + + where the cap "snaps" onto the pen. (about mid-section) +[2]- Remove the innerts of the felt tip pen, and throw them away. + +[3]- Pull the innerts out of a bic ball point pen and remove the ball + + point assembly at the front of the pen. + +[4]- Use scissors to widen the hole in the "felt" end of the pen. Insert + + the ball assembly and make sure it is a tight fit. It should now + + look as if the felt tip pen was constructed as a ball point pen. + +[5]- Cut off abrasive strips from the packs of matches. It is best if they + + have not been used. Tape these to the top of the firecracker near + the fuse, the strips should run parallel to the outstreched fuse. + + Wrap fuse over the top of one strip and tape down so fuse runs parallel + + to abrasive strips. + +[6]- Unbend paperclip and tape a match to the metal rod, the match should + + be parallel to the rod and it should be taped tight using as little + + tape as possible. + +[7]- Insert the match head 1/5 of the way between the abrasive strips + + and wrap tape around the assembly. It should now look like this. + + + + ------______----- + + [][][]a[][][]-----------------(b) + + (())--------------------- + + ______------_____ |(c) + + |(d) + + (a)-Explosive/(b)-Fuse/(c)-Match attached to metal rod/(d)-Abrasives + + The entire assembly should be thin enough to slip into the case of + + the felt tip pen. + +[8]- Using scissors drill a small hole in the "non-tip" end of the felt + + tip pen case. Insert the assembly so the metal rod fits through the + + hole in the end of the pen case. + +[9]- The assembly will not quite fit properly. The firecracker will + + protrude from the cut half of the felt tip case. Slip the removed + + end of the case over the firecracker. (join the halfs together over + + the firecracker in the center) and mount the cap of the felt tip pen + + on the end of the metal rod. Glue any loose parts. You are done! + + + +To Detonate... + + + + Simply hit the cap (mounted at end of pen permanently) and throw + +it at your target, or hand it to your target. My favourite is to say + +"Think Fast" and throw them your felt tip pen. (make it a easy throw) + +Your victim will catch it, and it will then explode. Cutting off many + +small appendages if you coat the firecracker with potassium parmagranite. + +Or killing your target if you use contact poison in place of the potassium. + + + +Theory of operation... + + + + Quite simple, by hitting the cap you are ramming the match head at + +the end of the metal rod between the tight abrasive strips causing + +combustion. Or the "Orgasm" effect. (the term Axis Agents use!) The + +fire lights the fuse and from there, the pen is history! (pardon the pun) + +After hitting the cap you have a average time limit of 2.5 seconds to + +rid yourself of the pen. (plenty of time actually...) + + Edited by : Quasimoto diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/yogurt.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/yogurt.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..2bb828c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/yogurt.txt @@ -0,0 +1,19 @@ + The Nihilist Presents + + "Yogurt Bombs" + +You'll Need: +------------ +M-60 or higher explosive +A thing of yogurt + + 1.Most yougurt tases like shit and is useless... untill now. + Yogurt usualy comes with foil seal make a hole in it with your fingers. + 2.Insert the explosive in the hole(kind of kinky dontcha think?) + 3.Light. + 4.Run. + + School janitors will have fun with this one! + + + ---The Nihilist----- diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/zonesfir.1 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/zonesfir.1 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8eb4a159 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/zonesfir.1 @@ -0,0 +1,232 @@ + + + +============================================================= + + + -=- An Official ZoNE Anarchy Phile -=- + + +------------------------------------------------------------- + +ZoNE's Guide To Altering Fireworks 01/25/90 + +------------------------------------------------------------- + +Written And Discovered By : N Sult of The Drop Site - ZoNE #5 + +------------------------------------------------------------- + + + This phile has come from many, MANY Fourth Of July's + +experiance... All of the fireworks used in this text file + +can be purchased at just about EVERY fireworks stand there + +is.. C'mon... You've all bought Ground Bloom Flowers, + +Whisteling Petes, and Sparklers... And I'm sure many of you + +have boughten TOO many of them, so you just light them off + +more than one at a time and paying little to no attention to + +them. Well, from now on, you'd better believe you're gonna + +pay attention to them! I mean, lighting a Ground Bloom + +Flower and expecting it to spin around on the ground, and the + +next thing you know, it launches straight up into the air, + +and you will very rarely see it ever again... Now that's + +quite a sight! So, I guess I'll get on with the file... + + +------------------------------------------------------------- + +========================== + +Part 1 - Sky Bloom Flowers + +========================== + + + Items Needed : + + + 1) Ground Bloom Flowers + + 2) A Power Drill + + 3) A Moderately Sized Bit + + + Steps Taken: + + + 1) Take your Ground Bloom Flower, turn it upside down, and + + drill straight down the middle until you get roughly + + 1/4 of an inch from the top. + + + 2) Get some matches, light it up, and run you pyromaniac + + ass off! + + + What It SHOULD Do: + + + What this should do is begin to spin and then take + +flight. It will fly so high, that you will not be able to + +see it again. + + +------------------------------------------------------------- + +======================= + +Part 2 - Nigger Chasers + +======================= + + + Items Needed : + + + 1) 1 Whisteling Pete + + + Steps Taken : + + + 1) Break about 1/4 of the end off (The side WITHOUT the + + fuse) + + + 2) Unwrap the paper surrounding the insides of it until + + there is very little left. + + + 3) Lay the baby down, light it, and watch the fucker go! + + + What It SHOULD Do : + + + What it should do is begin to move at a very fast rate + + in the direction you pointed the front of it. After going + + in that direction for a little while, it will then turn + + and start going, basically, where ever the fuck it wants! + + And if you unrapped enough of it, it will even take + + flight! So, I would recommend to keep your ass back! + + +------------------------------------------------------------- + +=========================== + +Part 3 - Sparklers No More! + +=========================== + + + Items Needed : + + + 1) About 15 Sparklers + + 2) Electrical Tape + + + Steps Taken : + + + 1) Get all your sparklers and hold them in your hand, then + + make a tight fist. + + + 2) While making the fist, beging to tape all the sparlers + + tightly together, leave about 1 inch un-taped at the + + top so you can light it. + + + 3) Once you have it tighly wrapped in tape, light the + + fucker! Ka-Ka-Ka-BOOOOM!!! + + + What It SHOULD Do : + + + What this should do, is once you light the 1 inch you + + left for a fuse, you run like hell... Then, when the + + heat/sparks get under the tape, it starts being + + pressurized. Once it get's far enough under the tape, it + + just says 'FUCK IT!' and blows up EVERYWHERE! And you + + thought M-80's were loud... + + +------------------------------------------------------------- + + This Has Been A ZoNE Presentation - Have Phun! - N Sult + +------------------------------------------------------------- + + +Word goes out to: + + +Mr. FerrarI, Dr. Claw (Foodstamp Carlos), The Silver Surfer, + + King Little T, Sir Shawn & Ludwig (Thanks for the codez!), + + My Homeboy Harry, and all the members of ZoNE, MAD, MCC, + + and PCH... Thanx, Guyz! + + +------------------------------------------------------------- + + +For More ZoNE Philes, Call: + + +The FerrarI BBS - [305] 386-6219 - ZoNE Home + +The Unholy Temple - [408] 249-5405 - ZoNE Site #1 + +The Order Of Kamikazee - [514] 358-1987 - ZoNE Site #2 + +The Death Star - [607] 754-7743 - ZoNE Site #3 + +Northern Phreakers Alliance - [416] 889-4978 - ZoNE Site #4 + +The Drop Site - [213] 924-9563 - ZoNE Site #5 + + +============================================================= + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER.1 b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER.1 new file mode 100644 index 00000000..c0f0c132 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER.1 @@ -0,0 +1,199 @@ + +T E X T F I L E S + +

Anarchy and Explosives : Jolly Roger's Cookbook

+

+

+ +Before you waste one entire second even considering mixing, +creating, or otherwise implementing the instructions in these files, be +aware that people have died from some of these very texts, attempting +wholescale explosives and dangerous chemical reactions based on some flimsy +text file written by god knows who for god knows what. It's just way +too easy for someone to have typed a 5 instead of a 4 years and years +ago when they were copying out of a badly photocopied pamphlet written +by someone entirely different. Your life is too precious to take such an +idiotic risk. If you're going to blow things (and yourself) up, at least +go the route of learning with experts, where you'll become aware of risks +and fun far beyond soaking tennis balls in gasoline and lighting them. OK?! + +
+

+ + + + + +
+
Filename
Size
Description of the Textfile
000.jrc 9337
 Introduction by The Jolly Roger +
001.jrc 4984
 Counterfeiting Money +
002.jrc 8400
 Credit Card Fraud +
003.jrc 3055
 Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach +
004.jrc 1607
 Picking Master Locks +
005.jrc 6608
 The Arts of Lockpicking I +
006.jrc 2680
 The Arts of Lockpicking II +
007.jrc 1677
 Solidox Bombs +
008.jrc 7058
 High Tech Revenge.jrc The Beigebox (NEW Revision 2.0) +
009.jrc 928
 CO2 Bombs +
010.jrc 2622
 Thermite Bombs +
011.jrc 910
 Touch Explosives +
012.jrc 1389
 Letter Bombs +
013.jrc 721
 Paint Bombs +
014.jrc 1356
 Ways to send a car to HELL +
015.jrc 1215
 Do ya hate school? +
016.jrc 787
 Phone related vandalism +
017.jrc 2432
 Highway police radar jamming +
018.jrc 431
 Smoke Bombs +
019.jrc 654
 Mail Box Bombs +
020.jrc 454
 Hotwiring cars +
021.jrc 400
 Napalm +
022.jrc 450
 Fertilizer Bomb +
023.jrc 553
 Tennis Ball Bomb +
024.jrc 938
 Diskette Bombs +
025.jrc 1538
 Unlisted Phone Numbers +
026.jrc 1440
 Fuses +
027.jrc 2254
 How to make Potassium Nitrate +
028.jrc 1445
 Exploding Lightbulbs +
029.jrc 1330
 Under water igniters +
030.jrc 3411
 Home-brew blast cannon +
031.jrc 3340
 Chemical Equivalency List +
032.jrc 4700
 Phone Taps +
033.jrc 1530
 Landmines +
034.jrc 623
 A different kind of Molitov Cocktail +
035.jrc 9148
 Phone Systems Tutorial I +
036.jrc 9086
 Phone Systems Tutorial II +
037.jrc 8535
 Basic Alliance Teleconferencing +
038.jrc 6826
 Aqua Box Plans +
039.jrc 494
 Hindenberg Bomb +
040.jrc 4222
 How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands +
041.jrc 12436
 Phone Systems Tutorial III +
042.jrc 2115
 Black Box Plans +
043.jrc 5563
 The Blotto Box +
044.jrc 1618
 Blowgun +
045.jrc 1679
 Brown Box Plans +
046.jrc 680
 Calcium Carbide Bomb +
047.jrc 1606
 More Ways to Send a Car to Hell +
048.jrc 1929
 Ripping off Change Machines +
049.jrc 2134
 Clear Box Plans +
050.jrc 2706
 CNA Number Listing +
051.jrc 3510
 Electronic Terrorism +
052.jrc 1456
 How to Start a Conference w/o 2600hz or M-F +
053.jrc 5774
 Dynamite +
054.jrc 688
 Auto Exhaust Flame Thower +
055.jrc 3209
 How to Break into BBs Express +
056.jrc 575
 Firebomb +
057.jrc 528
 Fuse Bomb +
058.jrc 531
 Generic Bomb +
059.jrc 1859
 Green Box Plans +
060.jrc 507
 Portable Grenade Launcher +
061.jrc 1776
 Basic Hacking Tutorial I +
062.jrc 7367
 Basic Hacking Tutorial II +
063.jrc 6796
 Hacking DEC's +
064.jrc 2030
 Harmless Bombs +
065.jrc 1043
 Breaking into Houses +
066.jrc 9145
 Hypnotism +
067.jrc 16448
 Remote Informer Issue #1 +
068.jrc 3485
 Jackpotting ATM Machines +
069.jrc 425
 Jug Bomb +
070.jrc 2469
 Fun at K-Mart +
072.jrc 20127
 How to Grow Marijuana +
073.jrc 512
 Match Head Bomb +
074.jrc 4631
 Terrorizing McDonalds +
075.jrc 3559
 "Mentor's" Last Words +
076.jrc 6059
 The Myth of the 2600hz Detector +
077.jrc 8343
 Blue Box Plans +
078.jrc 1096
 Napalm II +
079.jrc 3333
 Nitroglycerin Recipe +
080.jrc 5385
 Operation.jrc Fuckup +
081.jrc 4541
 Stealing Calls from Payphones +
082.jrc 2068
 Pool Fun +
083.jrc 3446
 Free Postage +
084.jrc 334
 Unstable Explosives +
085.jrc 1711
 Weird Drugs +
086.jrc 9375
 The Art of Carding +
087.jrc 1458
 Recognizing Credit Cards +
088.jrc 7309
 How to Get a New Identity +
089.jrc 14742
 Remote Informer Issue #2 +
090.jrc 12731
 Remote Informer Issue #3 +
091.jrc 11101
 Remote Informer Issue #4 +
092.jrc 10675
 Remote Informer Issue #5 +
093.jrc 4120
 Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines +
094.jrc 18943
 Ma-Bell Tutorial +
095.jrc 2191
 Getting Money out of Pay Phones +
096.jrc 5070
 Computer-based PBX +
097.jrc 13640
 PC-Pursuit Port Statistics +
098.jrc 2970
 Pearl Box Plans +
099.jrc 10867
 The Phreak File +
100.jrc 936
 Red Box Plans +
101.jrc 4012
 RemObS +
102.jrc 1582
 Scarlet Box Plans +
103.jrc 3543
 Silver Box Plans +
104.jrc 3718
 Bell Trashing +
105.jrc 1689
 Canadian WATS Phonebook +
106.jrc 1823
 Hacking TRW +
107.jrc 7243
 Hacking VAX & UNIX +
108.jrc 1805
 Verification Circuits +
109.jrc 1551
 White Box Plans +
110.jrc 1459
 The BLAST Box +
111.jrc 3364
 Dealing with the Rate & Route Operator +
112.jrc 5085
 Cellular Phone Phreaking +
113.jrc 1358
 Cheesebox Plans +
114.jrc 2645
 How to Start Your Own Conferences +
115.jrc 2897
 Gold Box Plans +
116.jrc 4550
 The History of ESS +
117.jrc 5700
 The Lunch Box +
118.jrc 2828
 Olive Box Plans +
119.jrc 1446
 The Tron Box +
120.jrc 2592
 More TRW Info +
121.jrc 21362
 "Phreaker's Phunhouse" +
122.jrc 35132
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 27 (Intro to MIDNET) +
123.jrc 8774
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 27 (The Making of a Hacker) +
124.jrc 30044
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Network Miscellany) +
125.jrc 5122
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Pearl Box Schematic) +
126.jrc 4831
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Snarfing Remote Files) +
127.jrc 12832
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (Western Union, Telex, +
128.jrc 15861
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (Hacking & Tymnet) +
129.jrc 22696
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (The DECWRL Mail Gateway) +
130.jrc 2560
 Sodium Chlorate +
131.jrc 2844
 Mercury Fulminate +
132.jrc 2086
 Improvised Black Powder +
133.jrc 2744
 Nitric Acid +
134.jrc 2330
 Dust Bomb Instructions +
135.jrc 1828
 Carbon-Tet Explosive +
136.jrc 2484
 Making Picric Acid from Aspirin +
137.jrc 1515
 Reclamation of RDX from C-4 Explosives +
138.jrc 3873
 Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels +
139.jrc 2283
 Clothespin Switch +
140.jrc 1817
 Flexible Plate Switch +
141.jrc 3937
 Low Signature Systems (Silencers) +
142.jrc 1311
 Delay Igniter From Cigarette +
143.jrc 1599
 Nicotine +
144.jrc 1975
 Dried Seed Timer +
145.jrc 1646
 Nail Grenade +
146.jrc 8927
 Bell Glossary +
147.jrc 1514
 Phone Dial Locks -- How to Beat'em +
148.jrc 1068
 Exchange Scanning +
149.jrc 4308
 A Short History of Phreaking +
150.jrc 92661
 "Secrets of the Little Blue Box" (story) +
151.jrc 8348
 The History of British Phreaking +
152.jrc 4435
 "Bad as Shit" (story) +
153.jrc 3075
 Telenet +
154.jrc 2654
 Fucking with the Operator +
155.jrc 3216
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 1, Issue 1 (The Phone Preak's Fry-Um Guide) +
156.jrc 5250
 International Country Code Listing +
157.jrc 16745
 Infinity Transmitter Schematic and Plans +
158.jrc 3346
 LSD +
159.jrc 1579
 Bananas +
160.jrc 6115
 Yummy Marihuana Recipes +
161.jrc 407
 Peanuts +
162.jrc 3074
 Chemical Fire Bottle +
163.jrc 1694
 Igniter from Book Matches +
164.jrc 2529
 "Red or White Powder" Propellant +
165.jrc 1831
 Pipe Hand Grenade +
166.jrc 5536
 European Credit Card Fraud (Written by Creditman) +
jr-cb-3.txt 872170
 Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version III (November 9, 1990) +
jrcookii.txt 433958
 Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version 2.0 (April 10, 1990) +

There are 168 files for a total of 2,153,744 bytes.

+ + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/.windex.html b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/.windex.html new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8466c5d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/.windex.html @@ -0,0 +1,199 @@ + +T E X T F I L E S + +

Anarchy and Explosives : Jolly Roger's Cookbook

+

+

+ +Before you waste one entire second even considering mixing, +creating, or otherwise implementing the instructions in these files, be +aware that people have died from some of these very texts, attempting +wholescale explosives and dangerous chemical reactions based on some flimsy +text file written by god knows who for god knows what. It's just way +too easy for someone to have typed a 5 instead of a 4 years and years +ago when they were copying out of a badly photocopied pamphlet written +by someone entirely different. Your life is too precious to take such an +idiotic risk. If you're going to blow things (and yourself) up, at least +go the route of learning with experts, where you'll become aware of risks +and fun far beyond soaking tennis balls in gasoline and lighting them. OK?! + +
+

+ + + + + +
+
Filename
Size
Description of the Textfile
000.jrc 9337
 Introduction by The Jolly Roger +
001.jrc 4984
 Counterfeiting Money +
002.jrc 8400
 Credit Card Fraud +
003.jrc 3055
 Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach +
004.jrc 1607
 Picking Master Locks +
005.jrc 6608
 The Arts of Lockpicking I +
006.jrc 2680
 The Arts of Lockpicking II +
007.jrc 1677
 Solidox Bombs +
008.jrc 7058
 High Tech Revenge.jrc The Beigebox (NEW Revision 2.0) +
009.jrc 928
 CO2 Bombs +
010.jrc 2622
 Thermite Bombs +
011.jrc 910
 Touch Explosives +
012.jrc 1389
 Letter Bombs +
013.jrc 721
 Paint Bombs +
014.jrc 1356
 Ways to send a car to HELL +
015.jrc 1215
 Do ya hate school? +
016.jrc 787
 Phone related vandalism +
017.jrc 2432
 Highway police radar jamming +
018.jrc 431
 Smoke Bombs +
019.jrc 654
 Mail Box Bombs +
020.jrc 454
 Hotwiring cars +
021.jrc 400
 Napalm +
022.jrc 450
 Fertilizer Bomb +
023.jrc 553
 Tennis Ball Bomb +
024.jrc 938
 Diskette Bombs +
025.jrc 1538
 Unlisted Phone Numbers +
026.jrc 1440
 Fuses +
027.jrc 2254
 How to make Potassium Nitrate +
028.jrc 1445
 Exploding Lightbulbs +
029.jrc 1330
 Under water igniters +
030.jrc 3411
 Home-brew blast cannon +
031.jrc 3340
 Chemical Equivalency List +
032.jrc 4700
 Phone Taps +
033.jrc 1530
 Landmines +
034.jrc 623
 A different kind of Molitov Cocktail +
035.jrc 9148
 Phone Systems Tutorial I +
036.jrc 9086
 Phone Systems Tutorial II +
037.jrc 8535
 Basic Alliance Teleconferencing +
038.jrc 6826
 Aqua Box Plans +
039.jrc 494
 Hindenberg Bomb +
040.jrc 4222
 How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands +
041.jrc 12436
 Phone Systems Tutorial III +
042.jrc 2115
 Black Box Plans +
043.jrc 5563
 The Blotto Box +
044.jrc 1618
 Blowgun +
045.jrc 1679
 Brown Box Plans +
046.jrc 680
 Calcium Carbide Bomb +
047.jrc 1606
 More Ways to Send a Car to Hell +
048.jrc 1929
 Ripping off Change Machines +
049.jrc 2134
 Clear Box Plans +
050.jrc 2706
 CNA Number Listing +
051.jrc 3510
 Electronic Terrorism +
052.jrc 1456
 How to Start a Conference w/o 2600hz or M-F +
053.jrc 5774
 Dynamite +
054.jrc 688
 Auto Exhaust Flame Thower +
055.jrc 3209
 How to Break into BBs Express +
056.jrc 575
 Firebomb +
057.jrc 528
 Fuse Bomb +
058.jrc 531
 Generic Bomb +
059.jrc 1859
 Green Box Plans +
060.jrc 507
 Portable Grenade Launcher +
061.jrc 1776
 Basic Hacking Tutorial I +
062.jrc 7367
 Basic Hacking Tutorial II +
063.jrc 6796
 Hacking DEC's +
064.jrc 2030
 Harmless Bombs +
065.jrc 1043
 Breaking into Houses +
066.jrc 9145
 Hypnotism +
067.jrc 16448
 Remote Informer Issue #1 +
068.jrc 3485
 Jackpotting ATM Machines +
069.jrc 425
 Jug Bomb +
070.jrc 2469
 Fun at K-Mart +
072.jrc 20127
 How to Grow Marijuana +
073.jrc 512
 Match Head Bomb +
074.jrc 4631
 Terrorizing McDonalds +
075.jrc 3559
 "Mentor's" Last Words +
076.jrc 6059
 The Myth of the 2600hz Detector +
077.jrc 8343
 Blue Box Plans +
078.jrc 1096
 Napalm II +
079.jrc 3333
 Nitroglycerin Recipe +
080.jrc 5385
 Operation.jrc Fuckup +
081.jrc 4541
 Stealing Calls from Payphones +
082.jrc 2068
 Pool Fun +
083.jrc 3446
 Free Postage +
084.jrc 334
 Unstable Explosives +
085.jrc 1711
 Weird Drugs +
086.jrc 9375
 The Art of Carding +
087.jrc 1458
 Recognizing Credit Cards +
088.jrc 7309
 How to Get a New Identity +
089.jrc 14742
 Remote Informer Issue #2 +
090.jrc 12731
 Remote Informer Issue #3 +
091.jrc 11101
 Remote Informer Issue #4 +
092.jrc 10675
 Remote Informer Issue #5 +
093.jrc 4120
 Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines +
094.jrc 18943
 Ma-Bell Tutorial +
095.jrc 2191
 Getting Money out of Pay Phones +
096.jrc 5070
 Computer-based PBX +
097.jrc 13640
 PC-Pursuit Port Statistics +
098.jrc 2970
 Pearl Box Plans +
099.jrc 10867
 The Phreak File +
100.jrc 936
 Red Box Plans +
101.jrc 4012
 RemObS +
102.jrc 1582
 Scarlet Box Plans +
103.jrc 3543
 Silver Box Plans +
104.jrc 3718
 Bell Trashing +
105.jrc 1689
 Canadian WATS Phonebook +
106.jrc 1823
 Hacking TRW +
107.jrc 7243
 Hacking VAX & UNIX +
108.jrc 1805
 Verification Circuits +
109.jrc 1551
 White Box Plans +
110.jrc 1459
 The BLAST Box +
111.jrc 3364
 Dealing with the Rate & Route Operator +
112.jrc 5085
 Cellular Phone Phreaking +
113.jrc 1358
 Cheesebox Plans +
114.jrc 2645
 How to Start Your Own Conferences +
115.jrc 2897
 Gold Box Plans +
116.jrc 4550
 The History of ESS +
117.jrc 5700
 The Lunch Box +
118.jrc 2828
 Olive Box Plans +
119.jrc 1446
 The Tron Box +
120.jrc 2592
 More TRW Info +
121.jrc 21362
 "Phreaker's Phunhouse" +
122.jrc 35132
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 27 (Intro to MIDNET) +
123.jrc 8774
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 27 (The Making of a Hacker) +
124.jrc 30044
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Network Miscellany) +
125.jrc 5122
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Pearl Box Schematic) +
126.jrc 4831
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 28 (Snarfing Remote Files) +
127.jrc 12832
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (Western Union, Telex, +
128.jrc 15861
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (Hacking & Tymnet) +
129.jrc 22696
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 3, Issue 30 (The DECWRL Mail Gateway) +
130.jrc 2560
 Sodium Chlorate +
131.jrc 2844
 Mercury Fulminate +
132.jrc 2086
 Improvised Black Powder +
133.jrc 2744
 Nitric Acid +
134.jrc 2330
 Dust Bomb Instructions +
135.jrc 1828
 Carbon-Tet Explosive +
136.jrc 2484
 Making Picric Acid from Aspirin +
137.jrc 1515
 Reclamation of RDX from C-4 Explosives +
138.jrc 3873
 Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels +
139.jrc 2283
 Clothespin Switch +
140.jrc 1817
 Flexible Plate Switch +
141.jrc 3937
 Low Signature Systems (Silencers) +
142.jrc 1311
 Delay Igniter From Cigarette +
143.jrc 1599
 Nicotine +
144.jrc 1975
 Dried Seed Timer +
145.jrc 1646
 Nail Grenade +
146.jrc 8927
 Bell Glossary +
147.jrc 1514
 Phone Dial Locks -- How to Beat'em +
148.jrc 1068
 Exchange Scanning +
149.jrc 4308
 A Short History of Phreaking +
150.jrc 92661
 "Secrets of the Little Blue Box" (story) +
151.jrc 8348
 The History of British Phreaking +
152.jrc 4435
 "Bad as Shit" (story) +
153.jrc 3075
 Telenet +
154.jrc 2654
 Fucking with the Operator +
155.jrc 3216
 Phrack Magazine - Vol. 1, Issue 1 (The Phone Preak's Fry-Um Guide) +
156.jrc 5250
 International Country Code Listing +
157.jrc 16745
 Infinity Transmitter Schematic and Plans +
158.jrc 3346
 LSD +
159.jrc 1579
 Bananas +
160.jrc 6115
 Yummy Marihuana Recipes +
161.jrc 407
 Peanuts +
162.jrc 3074
 Chemical Fire Bottle +
163.jrc 1694
 Igniter from Book Matches +
164.jrc 2529
 "Red or White Powder" Propellant +
165.jrc 1831
 Pipe Hand Grenade +
166.jrc 5536
 European Credit Card Fraud (Written by Creditman) +
jr-cb-3.txt 872170
 Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version III (November 9, 1990) +
jrcookii.txt 433958
 Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version 2.0 (April 10, 1990) +

There are 168 files for a total of 2,153,744 bytes.

+ + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/000.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/000.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..e2e71936 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/000.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,178 @@ + + + ##################################################################### + #~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~# + #~<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>~# + #~<>->>Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version III Dated 11/09/1990!!!<<-<>~# + #~<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>~# + #~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~# + ##################################################################### + + +Hello! Welcome to the Jolly Roger's Cookbook III! I hope that +this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers +busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather +information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home +base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files, +and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with. + +Thanks for taking the time to read this file, by the way. There are +a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook. + +1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from +anywhere in these files withoutmy expressed permission, then I +will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your +name to as many boards that I can find, urging them to put you on +their Black List. I also, will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from +the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess +the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In +other words, be careful who you give this collection to. Of, +course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write +viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people +or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this +treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can +TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself, because I still have +all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates, and you will +NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So +think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably +have a helluva time finding elsewhere!), then STAY COOL with it. + +2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from +within an encrypted program. However, I have decided against that +for these reasons: + + a) It would then be machine-exclusive + b) It would show that I don't trust you. + c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it. + +So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII +files can now read these. + +3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never +know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal +with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this. + +4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you +people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or +Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up +either (or your credit cards used for tha matter). So I have to +stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!! + +That is all for now. If I ever have to update this, it will just be +in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one. + +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= +-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=Notes for Version 2.0=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +Ok... here it is... long awaited v2.0.... what a bitch it was for me to +put this shit together. Hell, over 6 months to put the update shit +together. Anyway, response was cool, nobody fucked with the rulez above. +I am glad. This allows me to continue the updates. You should find it +worth the wait. + +God, there is so much more to do. As you can probably see, this database +is getting quite huge. And I have not even begun to tap the resources I +have available to me. I can easily over the next year or so make this +thing grow to 1600k or more..... so as long as I DON'T find this on a +p/d bbs, and I DO see it being spread around the proper channels, as +LONG as you guys keep bugging me for an update, and finally, as long as +the rulez above are kept,I shall continue. + +What you have in your disk drive right now is some of the most dangerous +knowledge ever unleashed on the computer underground. Use it wisely. +The really JUICY stuff will come in Cookbook v3.0, but let's see how +this one goes across, shall we? The Blotto box should be enough to see +how responsible you all are..................... + +Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!! + +Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -----------The Jolly Roger + +note to all warring pirates and the so-called "groups" +(You know who you are...): + +FUCK YOU! You are all assholes. Acting like fucking babies like trading +software was your fucking life or something. Like you have some big name +or something. Do you realize that nobody gives a flying fuck about you +in the real world? I have been a pirate for over 10 years, and have over +4000 ST programs, over 2000 IBM programs, over 2500 Macintosh programs, +and over 500 Amiga programs (& I do not even own an Amiga!).... and you +do not see me kissing ass on the bbs's, or making a deal out of someone +not "liking" me..... boo-fucking-hoo!! I really do not care. You see, +the difference between you and me is that I do this for fun. I see no +other reason to pursue a "hobby" but FOR fun. I hate the fucking +politics & shit. I give my stuff freely. It all comes back to me. +It just makes me sick when I am on the bbs's and I see these little baby +games about who did what, and who stole what loader, or re-crack, or +whatever. I AM AN original pirate. 1st generation. Not anything like you +baby-shit assholes. Excuse me but I had this boiling in me for a long +time. The ST world is so small that what little we do have we destroy +from within. And we blame Jack for it. Fuck, maybe that is the only +thing we agree on. Anyway, where is the hacking spirit? The giving? The +free will? Why all of the fucking ego's? It should be obvious by now +that I have no interest whatsoever in ego-tripping. You can like me or +hate me. But I will always be here. --------------Jolly Roger + +***************************************************************** +******************** Notes for Version III! ********************* +***************************************************************** + +Ah..version III. Well, I never thought for a minute that version +II would turn out to be so popular! Well, I am proud to announce +version III, and can assure you that a version IV is in the works! +As a student, however, I cannot say when it will be ready...but +what the hell...it will be a long time, I am sure, before you run +out of "toys" to play with. + +Lots of interesting new reading for you in this version! A Special +thanks to CREDITMAN, who lives in the UK and contributed an +excellent article on carding in the UK. It is great reading. + +Now, I would like to say a few words to those who insist on +yanking my chain (or is it dick?) in the message bases here in the +U.S.: "Whatever, dudes!" + +Now that was a few words, eh? Ok, I am debating on a new format +for Cookbook IV...something with easier access. Hell, this index +idea worked just fine when the cookbook was small, but now it is +getting quite large and the articles are getting quite +numerous...and--who knows? My laziness tells me to stick with it. +I just might do that! + +Well, the files spilled over onto two disks, so I figured I would +include some ST-specific "goodies". They are in a file on disk B +called "Goodie.Bag" and contain a few rarities and a few +essentials. Some will find most interesting, most will find some +interesting, a few may find none interesting. Oh, well. + +If anybody has any comments (there always is a few slags--take +your best shot!) then drop me a line in the usual places that one +can find me. If you do not know where those places are, then I am +sorry. It just wasn't meant to be. Ha Ha! + +All who oppose me and my ideas and/or the group that I participate +in can bugger off. Sure, yeah, I steal a lot of things--I am a +pirate after all. but so do you, and don't forget it. It is +ridiculous to call a thief a thief when it is a thief doing the +accusing. Grow up. This Cookbook is done for no other reason but +to share with EVERYONE ELITE some of the underground and often +illegal as hell information that I have gathered, researched, and +labored to locate, type, and write/compose. At least give me +credit for that. Anyone whom I call asshole deserves it in my eyes +for only one reason: there is not ONE DAMN THING redeeming that I +can find to compliment them on!! For example, Automation slagged +me for the R.C.A Slag Show II, I turned around and told them to +piss off on that, and then said that their cd's are getting +better. What kind of "kid" (a 24 year old one) would do that +anyway? Certainly not the TOI, that's for sure! Oh, well, fuck it +anyways. We are all going to die in Iraq soon enough anyway....- + +Enjoy and spread! Contribute if you can! Information should be +free (that's why I turned down an offer to publish portions of +this thing!)!! + + ----------------------Jolly Roger + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/001.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/001.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..83b229b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/001.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,87 @@ +Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger + +Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a +book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in +counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method +of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you. + +Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which +involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is +impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the +process. + +Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency +with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking +material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, +commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate +with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then +developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, +these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. + +The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick +360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of +the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take +them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, +touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. +The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all +one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered +(lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you +need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, +cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from +the flat replacing it with the new one. + +Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: +black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created +by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a +lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must +be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. +Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and +place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the +edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and +cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and +do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. +Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate +plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images +on each plate with an equal space between each bill. + +The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for +most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. +By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does +the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure +to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the +black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it +around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more +than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while +that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back +side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the +serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. +Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print +the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or +serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another +and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different +numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a +paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by +now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To +dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea +bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment +with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine +US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. +Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, +wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. + +As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset +printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly +hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset +printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is +about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of +showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The +Poor Man's James Bond". + +If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other +method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser +copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, +including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in +counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck! + -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/002.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/002.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..e40865d2 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/002.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,185 @@ +Credit Card Fraud brought to you by The Jolly Roger + +For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now: + +With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is +easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have +always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is +worth it. + +Step One: Getting the credit card information + +First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit +card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take +the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local +department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can +next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage +dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit +card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction +sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your +phone comes in handy. + +First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much +information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, +call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from +the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have +been informed that your credit card may have been used for +fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers +appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use +your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for +this ploy and give out their credit information. + +Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you +should be able to decipher the information given. + +Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies + +Card examples: + +[American Express] +XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX +MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 +JOE SHMOE + +[American Express] +XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX +MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 +JOE SHMOE + +Explanation: + MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the + expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers + XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, + even if the card holder is broke. + +[Mastercard] +5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX +XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY +JOE SHMOE + +Explanation: + XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering + process. The first date is when the card was new, and the + second is when the card expires. The most frequent number + combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of + these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted + lists, so check these first. + +[Visa] +4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) +MM/YY MM/YY*VISA +JOE SHMOE + +Explanation: + Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost + everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or + followed with a special code. These codes are as follows: + + [1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card + [2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card + [3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card + + Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to + use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with + decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred + coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 + XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards + are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although + they are usually covered for large purchases. + +Step Three: Testing credit + +You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express +credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone +number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, +most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is +a special number you call that will give you an address from a +phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the +balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run +out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't +stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that +businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you +go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a +credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, +give the credit information, and then give what is called a +"Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or +around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and +copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they +dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you +call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, +merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau +will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization +number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it +back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it +serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank +removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was +supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the +operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided +not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember +at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to +check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with +a customer when he/she "cancels". + +Step Four: The drop + +Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the +package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are +typical drop sites: + + [1] An empty house + +An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the +package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work +days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door +step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by +telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list +of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the +area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs. + + [2] Rent A Spot + +U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and +signed for. End your space when the package arrives. + + [3] People's houses + +Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. +Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the +package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you +keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep +calm when talking to the people. + +Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not +deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in +the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have +determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious +characters and cars that have not been there before. + +Step Five: Making the transaction + +You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the +necessary billing information, and a good drop site. + +The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. +It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay +phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, +don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the +salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are +trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own +voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears +on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of +shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next +day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an +order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of +a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. +Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. +Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage +investigation on the order. + +If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of +charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be +careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, +UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention +that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as +credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a +couple of years. Good luck! diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/003.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/003.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..491c9ce6 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/003.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,68 @@ +Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger + +Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, +and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in +grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as +France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small +amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the +procedure that follows. + +First off, you must obtain: + +[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.) +[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer +[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh + chemicals) +[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and + nutrition stores) + +Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin +heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of +potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. +Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, +and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery +hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge. + +Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it +is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the +crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again +and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. + +Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with +distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 +milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils +and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that +form upon cooling. This process of purification is called +"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively +pure potassium chlorate. + +Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to +drive off all moisture. + +Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this +in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on +90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) +into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium +chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate. + +Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid +friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This +explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 +grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block +type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a +blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used. + +The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, +etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive +and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You +should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME +caution at all times while performing the processes in this +article. + +You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by +writing: + + Information Publishing Co. + Box 10042 + Odessa, Texas 79762 + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/004.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/004.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..6ffa62a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/004.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,39 @@ +Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger + +Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those +Master combination locks and failed? + +The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a +protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will +not turn. That was their biggest mistake. + +The first number: + +Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. +While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get +the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will +not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now +have the first number of the combination. + +The second number: + +Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first +number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first +number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start +pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will +eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, +pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the +next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of +the combination. + +The third number: + +After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two +numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, +pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the +process right. + +This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. +Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new +mechanism that is foolproof (for now). + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/005.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/005.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..837be60d --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/005.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,157 @@ +The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The Jolly Roger + +Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks + +While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not +changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and +techniques have appeared on the scene. + +Automobiles: + +Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of +opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered +fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell +III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the +lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim +will not work. So: + +American Locksmith Service +P.O. Box 26 +Culver City, CA 90230 + +ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and +3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new +car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 +postage and handling. + +Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to +people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit +they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate +matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a +Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: + +Lock Technology Corporation +685 Main St. +New Rochelle, NY 10801 + +LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock +cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter +and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 +for postage and handling. + +The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of +lockout tools offered by: + +Steck MFG Corporation +1319 W. Stewart St. +Dayton, OH 45408 + +For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout +tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around. + +Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security +locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick +and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder +installed door lock. So: + +A MFG +1151 Wallace St. +Massilon, OH 44646 + +Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and +the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by +using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool. + +If you are too lazy to pick auto locks: + +Veehof Supply +Box 361 +Storm Lake, IO 50588 + +VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since +there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are +group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about +$20.00 a set. + +Updated Lockpicking: + +For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for +most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they +are as follows: + +Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, + until the shear line is set and the lock opens. + +Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a + series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks + are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). + With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and + stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of + an effort than standard picking. + +Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of + years ago and has found application with many + locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a + needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the + "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action + snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is + slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped + up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will + strike each other and separate at the shear line + for a split second. When this happens the lock + will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% + successful, but when it does work, the results are + very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock + with one snap of the trigger. + +Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an + electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect + will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly. + +There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very +short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in +appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of +the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by: + +Fed Corporation +P.O. Box 569 +Scottsdale, AR 85252 + +The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less +noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for +different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, +on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks +(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in +the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds +more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at +all. It will also open group two locks (including government, +high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time +longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is +about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy +that will open most locks in seven seconds? + +$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling. + +For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will +open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack +model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy +aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software. + +If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always +fall back on the magic thermal lance... + +The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from +3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot +length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on +one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a +matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an +oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a +standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible +amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even +rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few +seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is +available from: + +C.O.L. MFG +7748 W. Addison +Chicago, IL 60634 diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/006.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/006.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3060ec45 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/006.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,49 @@ +The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The Jolly Roger + +So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James +Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, +because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even +experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if +they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look +elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the +"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick. + +First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get +him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you +to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't +give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access +to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever). + +The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These +should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend +the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90 +degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth +the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. +Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will +slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver +comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used +in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the +coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of +a lock: +______________________________ + \ K + | | | | | | / E + | | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin + ^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin + ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall + / L (This is a greatly simplified + \ E drawing) +______________________________/ + +The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the +upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, +if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? +That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver +into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins +from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to +the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the +screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open. + +Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take +you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, +you will quickly improve with practice. diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/007.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/007.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8cbebc2f --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/007.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ +Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger + +Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive +chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox. + +Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can +be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around +$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing +agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active +ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many +military applications in the WWII era. + +Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you +must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and +readily available energy source is common household sugar, or +sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source, +but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose. + +Making the mixture: + +[1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by + one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar + and pestle) into the finest powder possible. +[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so + weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount + of sugar. +[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 + ratio. + +It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful +substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word +of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid +friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew +blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. +You have been warned! diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/008.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/008.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3c8c8a51 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/008.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,133 @@ +High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox rev.2 by The Jolly Roger + + -------------Introduction------------- +Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at +least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching +unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build +one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color +of ours. +The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a +phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To +fabricate a beigebox, follow along. + + ---------Construction and Use--------- +The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of +the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green, +yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: +the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary +for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and +the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There +should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black) +leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip. +To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow +and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so +that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your +telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular +model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses +common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight, +and does not require the destruction of a phone. + + ------------Beige Box Uses------------ +There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, +you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be +of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. +remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell +Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver +(or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also). +This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store. +With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately +1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked, +then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. +However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have +opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to +terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T" +(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if +not labeled, usually on the right). + +Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to +remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip +(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal. +Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal. + +Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator +clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure +they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. +Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use +your own). Here are some practicle aplications: + + > Eavesdropping + > Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends + > Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static) + > Phucking people over + > Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself + > Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught + > Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line. + +Eavesdropping +------------- +To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This +eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore +reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, +it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone +dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the +receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete +their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you +will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who +you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number. + +Dialing Long Distance +--------------------- +This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before +the NPA. + +Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing +------------------------------------------ +Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there. +I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception +and are more dificult to come by. + +Phucking People Over +-------------------- +This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics +described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will +not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition, +since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your +phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls. +This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause +of the problem. +Bothering the Operator +---------------------- +This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment. +Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced +to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section, +Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to? +He he he... + +Blue Boxing +----------- +See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice +feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once +again, not traced to your line... + +---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING---- +Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo, +and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you: + + > Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing, + > Use more than one output device + > Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real + name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments) + > In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output + device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over + the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is + opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and + you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded + on your teritory. + +Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for +that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the +operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an +enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content. + + ---------Jolly Roger + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/009.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/009.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3bc0fae8 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/009.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,17 @@ + How to make a CO2 bomb by the Jolly Roger + +You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it +or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the +powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black +powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the +cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. +I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse, +but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs +from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run +like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones +in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a +picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right +under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws +shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/010.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/010.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..b0d899ff --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/010.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,54 @@ +Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite by Jolly Roger + +Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. +The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is +a good way to make large quantities in a short time: + +- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the +connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both. + +- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium +chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water +conductive. + +- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you +plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes. +One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the +POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final +product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST +ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!). + +- Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now +put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight +and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until +you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous +with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of +making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right? + +- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a +cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside +overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have +seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked +up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!) + +- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot +until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum +filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum +tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 +grams. + +- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it... + +- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to +ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find.. +call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the +burning magnesium to light the thermite. + +- Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile +onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with +the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, +the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal +mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use +thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/011.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/011.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..984bb882 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/011.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,19 @@ +Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger + +This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in +large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a +snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe: + +- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will +not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia +and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you +dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!). + +- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch +explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully! +Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh? +They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to +them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds, +football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun! -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/012.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/012.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..a3aeb083 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/012.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,30 @@ +Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger + +- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my +recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust. + +- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum +to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space +(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient... + +- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. +You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers +and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter +would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is +your bomb!! + +- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. +Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The +fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another +one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long +cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the +outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch +explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the +powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn +the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at +least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human +flesh!). + +NOW that is REVENGE! -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/013.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/013.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..fbb2dcf2 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/013.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,15 @@ +Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger + +To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a +refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple, +or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place +the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place +the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time +this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to +the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed +off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the +door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!! + -Jolly Roger- + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/014.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/014.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..f383ca5c --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/014.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,42 @@ +Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger + +There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only +the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive +(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops). + +- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the +way through the pavement! + +- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler, +etc.) + +- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball, +or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank. + +- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into +the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the +tailpipe. + +- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it... + +- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo. + +- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like +this: + ---- + | | + | | + | | + | < + ---- + +Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until +you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device +is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar +detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders +on the seats!) + +Have Fun! -Jolly Roger- + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/015.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/015.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..c38b5b12 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/015.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,32 @@ +Do ya hate school? by The Jolly Roger + +- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call +in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have +to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. +You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They +might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course, +you will probably have to make it up in the summer...). + +- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and +flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!). + +- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway. + +- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards + inside if they are (gag) IBM. + +- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your +grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report +cards. + +- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and +grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry! + +- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal +is a fascist. + +- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car. + +- USE YOUR IMAGINATION! -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/016.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/016.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..0ee3f3fa --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/016.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,16 @@ +Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger + +If you live where there are underground lines then you will be +able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is +go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces +their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the +major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are +usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench +and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a +sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their +phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but +must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!) + -Jolly Roger- + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/017.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/017.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..97776e60 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/017.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,42 @@ +Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger + +Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will +invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this +device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the +radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his +sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow +down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a +radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the +cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random +numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make +a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called +a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to +10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An +8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a +car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of +the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement +equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz. +Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder +alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in +supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type +transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts +at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you +cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in +Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers' +for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a +plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the +PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The +unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go +speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will +notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using +detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs +and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and +triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN! + -Jolly Roger- + +P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of +POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can +get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds +of neat things! + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/018.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/018.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..1744878f --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/018.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,13 @@ +Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger + +Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb! + +4 parts sugar +6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter) + +Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well. +Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a +few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this +stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke! + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/019.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/019.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d69a16ab --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/019.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,18 @@ +Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger + +(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate) + + Small amount of sugar + + Small amount of water + + +Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the +bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to +believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox +in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, +though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person +whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city. + -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/020.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/020.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..20bbfcaf --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/020.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +The easiest way to hotwire cars by the Jolly Roger + +Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it +unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the +ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two +red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look +for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take +off! -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/021.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/021.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..3a9b4857 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/021.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,13 @@ +How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger + +- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container. + +- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't +eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup. + +- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused +stuff lasts a long time! + -Jolly Roger- + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/022.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/022.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..32fc05a2 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/022.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,16 @@ +How to make a fertilizer bomb by Jolly Roger + +Ingredients: + +- Newspaper +- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO) +- Cotton +- Diesel fuel + +Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. +Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and +run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet +so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger- + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/023.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/023.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..f873236b --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/023.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,17 @@ +Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger + +Ingredients: + +- Strike anywhere matches +- A tennis ball +- A nice sharp knife +- Duct tape + +Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis +ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't +fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is +real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the +street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!! + -Jolly Roger- + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/024.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/024.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..90fffc73 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/024.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,32 @@ +Diskette Bombs by the Jolly Roger + +You need: + + - A disk + - Scissors + - White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!) + - Clear nail polish + +- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!) + +- Remove the cotton covering from the inside. + +- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, +metal might spark the matchpowder!) + +- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk. + +- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture + +- Let it dry + +- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish +to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart). + +- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read +the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK +DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try +and fix THAT!!! -Jolly Roger- + + + diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/025.jrc b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/025.jrc new file mode 100644 index 00000000..105d9f60 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/JOLLYROGER/025.jrc @@ -0,0 +1,26 @@ +Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger + +There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if +this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated +to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices +are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are +installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service +rep would call the customer service number for billing information +in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get +the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go +something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown +business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of +town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if +the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER, +no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on +the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!) +When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a +listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC +DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if +you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might +want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists +phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux, +but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two +numbers down! -Jolly Roger- + +