diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rsg.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rsg.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..7324322f --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rsg.txt @@ -0,0 +1,90 @@ +****************************************** +****- T H E U N D E R G R O U N D ! -**** +****************************************** +****-- P R E S E N T A T I O N ! ! --**** +*** *** +** HOME-MADE STUFF V2 ** +* ================== * +****************************************** +** H O W T O M A K E A STUN GUN! ** +****************************************** +** CALL THE METAL AE (201)-879-6668 ** +** PASSWORD=KILL ** +****************************************** +** T H I S H A S B E E N W R I T E N ** +** ------------------------------------ ** +** B Y T H E G R E E N D E A N!!!! ** +** ------------------------------------ ** +** 4/05/1988-23:14:00 PST ** +****************************************** + + +So you want to ZaaaaaaP the shit out of someone. Well I have the thing just for +you. It delivers a nice Shock of 75,000 Volts and causes muscle spasms. A word +of caution don't try this on your self (Dumb Shit). Well you be need'n to go +down to your local RADIO-SHACK. Yes that is what I said RADIO-SHACK where they +sell shitty computers. Just for a joke tell'em you want to buy a TANDY 2000 to +use for a clock (HA! HA!) , and watch'em turn red. Then say "just kidding(dick) +", under your breath of course. Well enough of that shit, Here is what you +need. + +PARTS +===== +All resistors are 1/2 watt.Abbrv. as R1 or R2. +---------------------------------------------- +R1 & R2 100,000 ohm's resistors! +R3 & R4 500,000 ohm's resistors! +---------------------------------------------- +DIODES:D1-D4 +Use a 75 PIV BRIDGE RECTIFIER or 4 1N9004's 300 VOLTS. +---------------------------------------------- +Capacitors: +C1&C2 4700uF electrolytic +---------------------------------------------- +TR1-STEP UP TRANSFORMER 55 uH AUDIO +---------------------------------------------- +2 250 volt AC DPST switch +---------------------------------------------- +A 9volt RECHARGEABLE/100 volt Neon lamp =L +---------------------------------------------- +A 9volt battery clip/MALE-FEMALE RCA JACKS +---------------------------------------------- +Some perf board,wire,solder +---------------------------------------------- + 9volts in + - + + / to RCA JACK / +|---* *-------------| Use RCA JACK TO HOOK TO A RECHARGER. +| sw2 | Run JACK FROM 9V. +|----|<-----|<------| +| d1 d2 | When battery runs down Recharge it! +|----|<-----|<------| +| d3 d4 | +| | +\ / +/ R1 \ R2 +\ / +| + | +|----|(-------------| +| c1 | +\ \ +/ / +\ \ +| R3 - | R4 +|----|(-------------| +| c2 L Neon charge light/ Push sw1 to fire when light is on +|/ | +* *---------| | + sw1 | | + + n - + ======= + /\/\/\/ TR1 + ======= + | | needles or prods + | | + \|/ \|/ + +When this is built hold down sw2 until neon lamp lights. Then Stick "THE +VICTIM" And press SW1 ,He will get a jolt. + +DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS 304-744-2253 diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rugermk2.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rugermk2.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..b5e93c17 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rugermk2.txt @@ -0,0 +1,611 @@ + THE UNOFFICIAL OPERATOR MANUAL + + for the + + RUGER MK II + + by + + Richard M. Bash + + Combat Arms + 2869 Grove Way + Castro Valley, California 94546 + Telephone (415) 538-6544 + + September, 1988 + - MANDATORY USE OF FACTORY MANUAL WARNING - + + We live in an age when lawyers are suing everyone for almost +anything under the sun. Therefore, it is necessary to advise you, +the reader, that this manual in no way replaces or supersedes +information or instructions from Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc. In the +event of a conflict between the information contained herein and +the information in official Ruger publications, it is the Ruger +publication which takes precedence. Combat Arms will be happy to +answer any questions you may have but the final authority is always +the information from Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc. + + Assembly and Disassembly + of + The Ruger Mark II Pistol + +APPLICABILITY + The following applies to all models of the Ruger Mark II .22 +caliber pistol, including the Government Model, as manufactured by +Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc. (hereinafter referred to as "Ruger"). + +INITIAL INSPECTION + Upon initial receipt of the pistol, it should be inspected and +cleaned to assure complete, undamaged delivery and reliable, safe +functioning. + +DESCRIPTION + The Ruger Mark II automatic pistol is a .22 caliber rimfire, +10 shot magazine fed, semiautomatic, recoil (also called +"blowback") operated weapon, chambered for the .22 caliber Long +Rifle (LR) cartridge. This model includes the following features +with which the user should be thoroughly familiar. + +BOLT + The bolt can be manually retracted to chamber a cartridge from +a loaded magazine or to clear the pistol by pulling the bolt ears +to their rearmost position. Releasing the bolt ears will cause the +bolt to fly forward under spring pressure. + +BOLT STOP ASSEMBLY + The bolt stop assembly holds the bolt in a rearward position. +It may be actuated either manually or automatically. Whenever there +is an empty magazine assembly in the pistol, and the bolt moves to +its rearmost position, the magazine follower button automatically +actuates the bolt stop to hold the bolt rearward. This will occur +regardless of whether the bolt is moved rearward when the last +round is fired or by manual retraction. If there is a loaded +magazine in the pistol or if there is no magazine in the pistol, +the user may actuate the bolt stop by manually retracting the bolt +and pushing up on the bolt stop thumbpiece. To release the bolt +from the bolt stop when there is a loaded magazine or no magazine +in the pistol, merely pull the bolt ears to the rearmost position +and release. If there is an empty magazine in the pistol, the bolt +can be released by pulling the bolt ears rearward and manually +depressing the bolt stop thumbpiece to allow the bolt to return to +its forward position. + + - LOADED MAGAZINE WARNING - + +The bolt stop is spring loaded to move downward. Therefore, when +there is a loaded magazine in the pistol and the pistol is jarred +to the extent that the bolt moves rearward, the bolt will fly +forward and chamber a cartridge. For this reason the safety of the +pistol should always be in the on ("S") safe position except when +the user is positioned to fire the pistol at a selected target. + +SAFETY + When the safety assembly is in its uppermost ("S") safe +position, the sear is locked and the pistol will not fire. When the +safety is in its lower ("F") fire position, the pistol will fire! +The safety can only be moved to its safe ("S") position when the +hammer is cocked. Therefore, the safety serves as a cocking +indicator. The bolt can be manually retracted and released when the +safety is on ("S"). This feature allows the pistol to be loaded or +unloaded and allows a cartridge to be chambered when the safety is +on ("S"). The safety should be on ("S") at all times except when +the user is deliberately positioned to fire at a selected target. + +TARGET MODEL TRIGGER SCREW + The trigger assembly contains an overtravel screw on the +target models. This screw is adjusted at the Ruger factory for +proper functioning and should not need adjustment. The purpose of +the overtravel screw is to limit the distance the trigger moves +after the hammer falls. Improper adjustment of this screw results +in either (a) the screw being screwed out so far that the hammer +will not fall or (b) the screw will not be screwed in far enough +and thereby allowing excess overtravel to the detriment of +accuracy. Adjustment of this trigger overtravel screw, if required, +should only be performed by a qualified armorer. + +MAGAZINE + The 10 shot magazine assembly is readily identified by the +removable plastic base decorated with a silver "eagle" and is +designated by Ruger as the M10 magazine. This is the only Ruger +factory magazine that should be used with the Mark II pistol +because it is the only Ruger magazine which will correctly function +the bolt stop. Use of non-factory magazines is not recommended by +Ruger. However, the experience at Combat Arms has been that the 12 +round magazine from Ram-Line, Inc. (part number MAK 1210) has shown +that this magazine is the ONLY non-factory magazine that +consistently works in the Ruger MK II pistol. The Ram-Line, Inc. +MAK 1210 magazine also has a life time warranty! It costs $12.95 +(as of this writing) and is a stock item at Combat Arms. However, +use of a magazine made by other than Ruger may void Ruger's +warranty. + + + - MAGAZINE USE WARNING - + +Do not use the Ruger 9 shot magazines (identified by their +non-removable bases) designed for earlier model Ruger pistols (Mark +I, etc.) in Mark II pistols. Do not use Ruger 10 round M10 +magazines in Ruger pistols other than the Mark II. + + + - MAGAZINE FOLLOWER USE CAUTION - + +Never lower the magazine follower button on the magazine and then +permit it to snap upward. Always "ride" the button up and down with +your thumb to avoid damage to the magazine and possible discharge +of .22 caliber rimfire cartridges in the magazine. + + - WARNING - + +The Mark II pistol will fire when a live round is chambered, +regardless of whether or not a magazine is installed in the pistol. +Removing the magazine does not unload the pistol. To unload the +pistol, FIRST REMOVE THE MAGAZINE, THEN PULL THE BOLT FULLY TO THE +REAR AND EJECT THE CARTRIDGE. DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE CHAMBER IS +EMPTY; ALWAYS VISUALLY INSPECT THE CHAMBER EVERY TIME YOU HANDLE +THE PISTOL. THE SAFETY SHOULD ALWAYS BE ON ("S") WHEN UNLOADING THE +PISTOL. + +Ammunition + The Ruger Mark II automatic pistol is chambered for the +caliber .22 Long Rifle cartridge, standard or high velocity. Use +only ammunition manufactured to U.S. industry standards or to U.S. +military specifications. Do not attempt to load .22 Long, .22 Short +or any other type of .22 caliber ammunition into the magazine or +the chamber of the Ruger Mark II pistol. + + + - AMMUNITION WARNING - + +The Ruger Mark II pistol may be damaged and death or serious injury +may occur to the user or other persons from any condition which +contributes to the generation of excessive pressure or the +uncontrolled release of gas within the Mark II pistol. These +conditions can be caused by barrel or chamber obstructions, +propellant powder overloads or by defective, incorrect or +improperly loaded and assembled cartridge components. The +relatively thin, soft metal used in .22 caliber rimfire cartridges +makes burst cartridge case heads a common occurrence in firearms +of this caliber. Therefore shooting glasses should ALWAYS be worn +when firing the Mark II pistol. + + + - BARREL OBSTRUCTION WARNING - + +Before loading or firing the pistol, examine the barrel to be +certain that it is clear and unobstructed. Firing the Mark II +pistol with any obstruction in the barrel - even a heavy coating +of oil or even drops of water - may result in damage to the pistol +and injury to the user or persons nearby. A misfire or unusual +report on firing is always a signal to cease firing immediately +and examine the chamber and bore. If there is any type of +obstruction - even a partial obstruction - the user must clear the +obstruction with a cleaning rod and bore brush before firing the +Mark II pistol. + + SPECIFICATIONS + +Weight + Without magazine 2.7 pounds + With empty magazine 2.8 pounds + With full M10 magazine 2.9 pounds +Length + Overall 11.125 inches + Barrel 6.875 inches +Sights + Sight radius (on 6.875 inch barrel) 9.281 inches + Adjustment ซ inch per click + at 25 yards +Mechanical features + Rifling 6 grooves + Twist 1 turn in 15 inches + (right hand twist) + Trigger pull Approximately 50 + ounces +Magazine capacity + Ruger M10 magazine 10 cartridges + Caliber .22 Long Rifle only + + + Disassembling the Ruger Mark II + + - LOADED WEAPON WARNING - + +Never clean, lubricate, disassemble, assemble or work on the Mark +II pistol while it is loaded. Keep all loaded ammunition away from +the cleaning area. + + + - MUZZLE SAFETY WARNING - + +Keep the muzzle of the Ruger Mark II pistol pointed in a safe +direction at all times during the disassembly and assembly of this +pistol. + + +REMOVAL OF THE MAGAZINE + Place the safety on ("S"). With the thumb of either hand, push +the knurled magazine catch rearward and pull the magazine assembly +down out of the lower receiver by its grooved base. Remove all +cartridges from the magazine by pushing them forward and allowing +them to pop out. + +CHECK CHAMBER FOR NO CARTRIDGES + With the pistol pointed in a safe direction and YOUR FINGER +OFF THE TRIGGER, grasp the bolt ears with the thumb and index +finger and pull the bolt fully rearward. Make certain the Ruger +Mark II is empty! Visually verify that no ammunition is in the +chamber. Release the bolt ears and allow the bolt to fly forward. + +UNCOCK THE HAMMER + The safety must be off ("F") and the pistol uncocked to +disassemble the Mark II. Point the weapon in a safe direction and, +with the pistol unloaded, pull the trigger. The hammer must be +uncocked to relieve the pressure on the mainspring before the +weapon can be disassembled. + +UNLATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING + The perfect "tool" to use for raising the mainspring housing +latch is a lady's bobby pin. Combat Arms has found nothing better +for disassembling the Ruger Mark II than this. Using your +fingernails will just result in broken nails. If you use a +screwdriver, you risk scratching the pistol. Some users have +reported that they use a piece of string looped over the latch. +Using the bobby pin, lift the mainspring housing latch UP out of +the handgrip as far as it will go, much like opening the blade of +a pocket knife. This will bring the latch to an approximate 90๘ +angle to the handgrip. + +INITIALLY POSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT + Point the empty pistol straight up and pull the trigger in +order to make the hammer fall to its rearmost position. + +REMOVE THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY + Pull straight DOWN on the mainspring housing until the +mainspring housing pin clears its hole in the top of the receiver. +With new pistols it may be necessary to lightly tap (with a +plastic, rubber or wooden hammer) on the end of the mainspring +housing pin which protrudes through the top of the upper receiver +assembly while pulling downward on the mainspring housing. The +mainspring housing is now able to be removed from the pistol. + +POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD + Point the Mark II muzzle DOWN and pull the trigger. + +REPOSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT + Now raise the empty pistol vertically and point it straight +up until you hear a click. This click tells you that the hammer +strut has fallen back. If you do not hear the click, go back to the +previous step, entitled POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD. + +REMOVAL OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY + You can now pull the bolt out of the receiver by pulling on +the bolt ears while continuing to point the pistol at the ceiling. +If the bolt will not come out, then the hammer is not positioned +aft; go back two steps to POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD. + +REMOVAL OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY + Grasp the lower receiver and hold the bolt stop thumbpiece UP. +Hold the pistol over a padded work surface which will receive the +upper receiver when it is removed. Tap the rear of the upper +receiver with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer to disengage the +upper receiver from the lower receiver. + +DISASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT + Lift the recoil spring assembly UP out of its slot in the bolt +assembly. NOTE: no further disassembly of the bolt should be needed +for routine cleaning. For further disassembly, push out the firing +pin stop. This will allow the firing pin, firing pin spring and the +firing pin spring support to drop free. With a pointed object, such +as a punch of the proper size, push the extractor plunger rearward +until the extractor can be lifted out of the side of the bolt. +Slowly release the extractor plunger, allowing the plunger and +extractor spring to fall free of the bolt. + +DISASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE + Hold the Ruger M10 magazine assembly upside down, keeping the +base of the magazine pointed away from people or objects. Insert +a 1/16" drift punch through the hole in the base and depress the +magazine base plunger approximately ฌ". Slide the base forward +very slowly, being very careful to keep the plunger and mainspring +under control at all times. If not contained, these parts will fly +out with considerable force. With the base fully removed, slowly +relax the pressure on the plunger and spring and remove them. Hold +the magazine flat with the magazine follower button up. Align the +magazine follower button with the circular opening near the lower +end of the magazine tube. Lift out the button. The magazine +follower can now be removed. + +CLEAN THE PISTOL + Gather together the proper sized cleaning rod with a .22 +caliber brass or bronze bristle bore brush and a slotted tip into +which a cleaning patch can be inserted. Also needed are clean cloth +patches and clean soft cloths. Do not use stainless steel brushes +on the weapon unless the Mark II is constructed of stainless steel. +Stainless steel brushes will remove the bluing on blued pistols. +A bronze or brass "toothbrush" is especially helpful for scrubbing +parts. Do not use the bore brush for scrubbing anything except the +barrel and magazine housing. + + Combat Arms and the United States military recommend that you +use Break-Free (CLP)(tm). Under no circumstances should you ever +use WD-40(tm) on any weapon! If you need a solvent, Combat Arms +recommends that you use Shooter's Choice(tm) followed by CLP. The +Ruger Mark II should be cleaned at least every 400 rounds and after +each firing period. + + Using a cleaning rod with a slotted tip, run a CLP wetted +patch through the full length of the barrel from the chamber end +several times to remove loose material. Then attach a bronze or +brass bristle bore brush to the cleaning rod and wet it in CLP. +Run the bore brush back and forth through the full length of the +barrel at least a dozen times. Make sure that the rod is pushed all +the way through the barrel until the entire bore brush clears the +muzzle end. Do not reverse the direction of the brush until it has +completely exited from the muzzle end of the barrel or the bore +brush may bind up inside the barrel. + + Using the toothbrush soaked in CLP, scrub the area around the +chamber until it is clean. Remove the bore brush from the cleaning +rod and attach the slotted tip again. Run several dry patches +through the barrel until they come out clean. If necessary, attach +the bore brush to the cleaning rod again and scrub the barrel with +a CLP soaked bore brush. Continue the process until the barrel is +clean. + + Failing to do this consistently and properly will cause +fouling of the barrel with a natural loss of accuracy. Grease +accumulation in the chamber area can interfere with the proper +feeding of cartridges from the magazine. + + Using a loose clean patch soaked with CLP, remove all powder +residue from all components of the mechanism. If grease or dirt +cannot be removed by merely wiping with the patch, then use your +brass toothbrush soaked with CLP. After using the brass toothbrush, +wipe all of the scrubbed areas with a clean CLP wetted patch. After +cleaning the bore, run a clean dry patch through the barrel and +then follow it with a patch that has a light coat of CLP on it. +This will put a light coat of CLP on the inside of the barrel and +protect it from corrosion. + + Wipe all surfaces with a clean cloth that has a light coat of +CLP on it. If the lower receiver and its mechanism is especially +dirty, flood it with CLP, leave it sit soaking for 2 hours and then +flush it out with more CLP. Remove the grip panels before soaking +or flushing the pistol and make certain that all foreign matter is +removed after cleaning. Lightly lubricate the lower receiver with +CLP after cleaning. + + When cleaning the bolt face, breech areas, etc. with the +toothbrush, work carefully so as not to damage components. + + Reassemble the pistol as detailed later in this manual. If the +Ruger Mark II pistol is to be stored for an extended period, the +final wiping should be done with a heavier coat of CLP. + + Clean the internal and external parts of the disassembled +magazine with CLP. The inside of the magazine can be scrubbed with +a bore brush soaked in CLP. After scrubbing, remove all loose +material with several clean patches, just like you did with the +cleaning of the barrel. Leave a very light coat of CLP on the +inside of the magazine and on the magazine spring. + + + - MAGAZINE CLEANING CAUTION - + +Be careful not to scratch the interior and exterior of the Ruger +M10 magazine, particularly along the front section where the bullet +tips ride. Be very careful not to bend the magazine lips. + + Only a very small amount of CLP is needed to provide adequate +lubrication of all moving parts in the Ruger Mark II and to prevent +rust. Accumulation of CLP can attract particles of dust and dirt +which can interfere with the safe and reliable function of the +pistol. Do not, therefore, apply excess CLP unless storing the +weapon for an extended period of time. If storing the weapon and +using a heavy coating of CLP, the weapon should be disassembled and +re-cleaned and lubricated with a light coating of CLP before +firing. + + - STORAGE WARNING - + +If the pistol has been stored, before firing it again, completely +disassemble it as detailed elsewhere in this manual, remove all +grease and lubricant, apply a light coating of CLP to all parts as +described in the section on cleaning and be sure to run a dry patch +through the barrel after cleaning with a bore brush soaked in CLP. +Do not keep the pistol stored in a leather holster or leather case. +Leather attracts moisture, even though the holster or case may +appear to be perfectly dry. Never store the Mark II pistol in such +a manner as it may be dislodged. Always store the Mark II securely +and unloaded. + + + - LUBRICATION WARNING - + +Firing the pistol with oil, grease or any other material even +partially obstructing the barrel may result in damage to the pistol +and death or injury to the user and those persons nearby. Never +spray or apply any lubricants directly to the ammunition. If the +powder charge of a cartridge is affected by the lubricant, it is +possible that the charge will not ignite but the energy from the +primer in the cartridge case may be sufficient to push the bullet +into the barrel where it may be lodged. Firing a subsequent bullet +into the obstructed barrel may damage the pistol and cause death +or injury to the user and persons nearby. Use all lubricants +properly and according to the lubricant manufacturer's suggestions +and recommendations. + + + Reassembling the Ruger Mark II + + +ASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE + Assemble the magazine in the reverse order of its disassembly, +being especially careful to contain the spring and plunger as the +base is being locked into place. After assembly of the magazine, +test the follower to ensure that it has free movement. + +ASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT + The bolt is assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly. +When installing the firing pin spring, make certain that the front +of the support curves DOWN into the bolt. After assembly, test the +extractor and firing pin for free movement. Put the recoil spring +assembly back into the bolt. + +INSTALLATION OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY + Grasp the lower receiver in a natural shooting position. Point +the pistol upward vertically and pull the trigger to pivot the +hammer backward to a cocked position. Lower the pistol to a +horizontal position. Place the upper receiver about ฌ" ahead of +its final position and press it backward and downward so that the +trigger guard lug engages the front recess on the bottom of the +upper receiver. The upper receiver is properly aligned when the +rear end of the upper receiver is approximately even with the rear +end of the lower receiver. If proper alignment is not achieved by +mere hand pressure then it is necessary to strike the muzzle with +a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer. Inspect the inside of the +receiver to see if the hammer is up. If the hammer is up, the bolt +will not go into the receiver. If the hammer is up, point the +pistol up vertically and pull the trigger to make the hammer go to +the cocked position and ensure that the hammer strut is free. + +INSTALLATION OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY INTO THE RECEIVER + With the muzzle still pointing slightly upward, insert the +bolt into the receiver SPRING SIDE UP. If you put it straight in, +the bolt will easily slide right into the receiver. + + - FIRING PIN STOP WARNING - + +When sliding the bolt assembly into the receiver, be certain that +the firing pin stop is in the bolt. If the bolt is assembled +without the firing pin stop in place, the first time the Mark II +pistol is dry fired (no live cartridge in the chamber), the firing +pin will be free to move forward to the extent that it will dent +the rear face of the chamber, thus rendering the upper receiver +useless and beyond repair. + +INSTALLATION OF THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY + Point the empty pistol downward and pull the trigger until the +hammer falls forward to its vertical (fired) position. Grasp the +mainspring housing and insert the mainspring housing into the +receiver by positioning the mainspring housing pin into the bottom +of the hole in the lower receiver and push it straight up through +the hole in the upper receiver. As the mainspring housing pin is +pushed upward through the receivers, it passes through the slot in +the bolt and also passes by the rear end of the recoil spring +guide, camming the recoil spring guide forward to put initial +tension into the recoil spring. Continue pressing the mainspring +housing pin upward through the receivers until the mainspring +housing pin protrudes about 1/8 inch above the top of the upper +receiver. During this step, be certain that the rear of the bolt +is flush with the rear of the receiver and that the hammer is in +its fired (forward) position. When the hammer is in the forward +position, it is then possible to observe the hammer strut. The +mainspring housing pin will snap into place when it has traveled +to its correct position. + +VERIFY THAT THE HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD + Point the empty pistol down towards the floor and pull the +trigger. This will cause the hammer to fall forward. Release the +trigger and do not touch it again! + +REPOSITION THE HAMMER STRUT + Point the MARK II straight up until you hear the hammer strut +fall back with a slight click. You will have to raise the pistol +rapidly to cause the hammer strut to fall back. Do not pull the +trigger. Keep the Mark II pointing upward. + +LATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING + The mainspring housing is now ready to be swung shut but it +is essential that the hammer strut comes to rest on the mainspring +plunger as the housing is closed. The mainspring plunger lies +inside the mainspring housing and may be seen through the slot in +the upper end of the housing. If the hammer strut does not contact +the mainspring plunger as the housing is swung shut, it will either +be impossible to complete the closure of the housing or the housing +may be closed but it will be impossible to draw the bolt all the +way back. It is also essential that the hammer itself be in its +uncocked forward position (resting against the firing pin) as the +mainspring housing is swung shut. With the MARK II still pointing +up vertically and tilted at a slight angle to cause the hammer +strut to drop into the correct position to meet the mainspring +plunger in the mainspring housing, close and latch the mainspring +housing by pushing the latch into its original position with the +heel of your hand. + +TESTING FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT + When proper engagement is achieved, closure is complete +against the tension of the mainspring, which can be felt as the +mainspring housing is pushed into the recess in the back strap. To +find out if you did everything correctly, grasp the bolt ears and +pull the bolt back. If the bolt comes all the way back, you +reassembled the Ruger Mark II correctly. If the bolt fails to come +back, it is because the hammer strut is improperly positioned. If +the hammer strut is improperly positioned, then open the mainspring +housing again and go back to the step entitled VERIFY THAT THE +HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD. + + - USE OF FORCE CAUTION - + +It isn't the amount of force that does the job but how that force +is applied. If all else fails, bring the pistol into Combat Arms +and we'll show you how to do it at no charge if you purchased the +Mark II here. Otherwise there is a $5.00 fee. Everyone agrees that +the Ruger factory manual for the Mark II pistol leaves a lot to be +desired. Sorry, but the only thing that will change that is if you, +the consumer, write to Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc. and complain. +Combat Arms has spare factory manuals if you need one ($1.00). + + - RECALL NOTICE - + +If your serial number is 210-92816 to 210-94772 or 211-28500 to +211-40000, Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc. advises that two (2) pistols in +the aforementioned serial number range have been discovered to fire +if the trigger is pulled when the safety is on S and then the +safety is moved to the F position. If, with an empty pistol, you +cock the pistol, put the safety to S and pull the trigger and then +put the safety to F and pull the trigger, you should hear a click +as the hammer falls in a properly functioning pistol. If you do NOT +hear the click, the pistol can fire simply by moving the safety to +the F position. Do not use the pistol if it does this! Ship it at +once via UPS to Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc., Dept. MKII, Lacey Place, +Southport, CT 06490. If you prefer, Combat Arms can insure and ship +the weapon for you for $10.00. Ruger will repair the pistol without +charge to you. + - About the Author - + + Born in Indianapolis, Indiana on March 6, 1945, Richard M. +Bash (known to his friends as Dick) graduated from Purdue +University and did graduate work at the University of Southern +California. For approximately 10 years Dick flew as a flight +engineer aboard Boeing 707, Boeing 727 and Lockheed C-130 aircraft. +After having traveled to 108 different countries, Dick settled in +the San Francisco Bay area where he opened Combat Arms in 1983. He +lives with his wife, Flora, in Hayward, California and enjoys +shooting, computers, ham radio (KL7IHP) and reading. He is a +Heckler & Koch factory trained armorer and a graduate of the Law +Enforcement Armorer School at Lassen College in Susanville, +California. A perennial student, he presently taking courses at +Chabot College in Hayward. Dick wrote this manual because so many +users had questions about the proper way to disassemble, clean and +assemble the Ruger Mark II and there was a severe lack of +information available. Written suggestions for improvement of this +manual are also welcomed. + - Acknowledgment of Trademarks - + + Combat Arms wishes to acknowledge the trademarks of the +following products along with their respective companies. + + +Mark I, Mark II, Ruger Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc. + +Break-Free, CLP San-Bar Corp. + +WD-40 WD-40 Company + +Shooter's Choice Venco Industries Inc. + + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rugerp85.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rugerp85.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..b3b84e90 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/rugerp85.txt @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ + Combat Arms + 2869 Grove Way + Castro Valley, California 94546-6709 + Telephone (415) 538-6544 + + Update on Ruger P-85 9mm Pistol + December 8, 1988 + + The December, 1988 issue of the American Rifleman (the National Rifle +Association's publication) has an article on pages 38 - 40 + 80 relating to +Ruger's P-85 9mm pistol. The following is a summary of that article. This +material is of interest to potential buyers of this $300.00 pistol and to +others interested in Ruger's progress in producing the weapon. For a copy +of the original article, please contact: + + The National Rifle Association + 1600 Rhode Island Avenue, N.W. + Washington, DC 20036 + Telephone (202) 828-6000 +๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ ๐ + Ruger established a plant in Prescott, Arizona to build the P-85 and +moved into this 10,000 square foot facility in 1986. There they began +producing and testing the gun. In January, 1989 the company expects to move +to a 200,000 square foot facility near Prescott Airport. This is an +increase of 20 times the original size. + + There are presently 60 employees at the Prescott plant and when Ruger +moves to its larger location near the airport there will obviously be more +employees added to its staff. + + The Ruger P-85 was not built in time for the original U.S. military +tests that Beretta USA won for the M-9 9mm pistol. Beretta was awarded a +contract to build approximately 320,000 M-9 pistols. The M-9 is the +military version of the Beretta 92-F. Beretta USA has delivered about +175,000 pistol so far and has about two years to go on the original +contract. + + The military has decided to offer an additional contract for 142,292 +pistols to be designated the M-10. Beretta has stated that since they +already won the M-9 contract they will not go through the expense of +re-testing but will let their previous record stand. Beretta, Ruger and +Smith & Wesson (and possibly others) will compete for the M-10. Weapons +were to be delivered for evaluation to the U.S. Army's testing facility at +Aberdeen Proving Ground, Maryland by August 17, 1988. Once again, it is my +understanding from Beretta that Beretta will not submit a gun but will +compete on the basis of their previous test results. + + I have test fired the Ruger P-85 and find that the accuracy of the +pistol is adequate for military operations but inadequate for the typical +civilian demands and law enforcement requirements. The article in the +American Rifleman states about the same thing. + + However, Ruger is trying to improve the accuracy and reliability of +their P-85. The plant manager of the Arizona operation is William Atkinson +and he has extensive experience as a barrel maker. + + The article mentions that changes made include making the barrel and +its locking block one piece. Previously the locking block had been welded +to the barrel. The firing pin block has been moved and the slide stop arm +of the P-85 has been re-designed. + + A newer design has been incorporated into the muzzle area of the slide +which permits a more adequate lock up of the pistol in battery. This makes +the barrel return to the same position when the round is fired. Naturally, +accuracy will be improved by this. + + The article speaks of some tests that were performed on the gun. These +are generally destructive tests involving plugging the barrel, firing the +gun and seeing where the stress results appear in the frame. Another test +involved cutting away parts of the slide below and forward of the ejection +port and then firing the pistol. + + During Ruger's tests, the article says they used PMC 9mm ammunition. I +personally do not like PMC ammo because it is inconsistent. The reader is +better advised to shoot Winchester USA brand of 9mm 115 grain full metal +jacket ammunition. + + The article states that the NRA conducted firing tests on three +randomly selected pistols. The NRA used the PMC 9A 115 grain full metal +jacket, Winchester 115 grain Silvertips and Remington R9MM1 115 grain +jacketed hollow point ammunition. Both of these latter rounds produced +better accuracy out of the gun than did the PMC 9A 115 grain full metal +jacket ammunition. Naturally, the best results were with the Silvertips +(super ammunition for all 9mm pistols in my opinion). + + Here are the results that the NRA got during their firing test. The +results speak for themselves. + + Test 1 +Fire five 5 shot groups from 25 yards with a Ransom Rest using PMC 9A 115 +grain full metal jacket ammunition. + + Smallest Largest Average 25 shot + Group Group Group Group + (Inches) (Inches) (Inches) (Inches) +Gun #1 2.78 4.69 3.89 5.78 +Gun #2 3.80 5.01 4.37 6.50 +Gun #3 2.67 5.11 4.05 5.93 +Average group size for all three guns was 4.10 inches. + + + Test 2 +Fire five 5 shot groups from 25 yards from a sandbag (without a Ransom +Rest) using a variety of 9mm ammunition. + + Smallest Largest Average 25 shot + Group Group Group Group + (Inches) (Inches) (Inches) (Inches) +PMC 9A 2.90 4.75 3.80 5.91 +115 gr. FMJ +Vel.: 1143 fps +SD: 18 +Remington R9MM1 2.51 3.38 2.95 4.21 +115 gr. JHP +Vel.: 1165 fps +SD: 10 +Win. Silvertips 0.93 4.28 2.40 4.28 +115 gr. JHP +Vel.: 1179 fps +SD: 18 +Average group size for all three types of ammo was 3.05 inches using Gun +#1. + + The "standard deviation" (SD) for the latter test needs explanation. +Standard deviation, when applied to the velocities given, means that two +thirds of the shots fired were within the specified variance. For example, +using the Winchester Silvertips data, the velocity (measured at 15 yards) +was 1179 fps ๑18 fps SD. Two thirds of the Silvertips rounds fired were +between 1161 fps (1179 - 18) and 1197 fps (1179 + 18). Thus, a third of the +Silvertips rounds had velocities outside this boundary (meaning below 1161 +fps or above 1197 fps). I offer this explanation because I see the +increased use of standard deviation in ballistic reports. + + If you had additional questions on this material, please do not +hesitate to contact me. The P-85 has a retail price of $325.00 for the +pistol in a deluxe box with an extra magazine and $295.00 for the pistol +with one magazine in a cardboard box. It is difficult at this time to get +P-85's. Hopefully that will change in 1989. + + + +Richard Bash +c/o Combat Arms +Castro Valley, California + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/sansilen.hac b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/sansilen.hac new file mode 100644 index 00000000..8671b609 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/sansilen.hac @@ -0,0 +1,47 @@ + Homemade Silencers + + This is a phile on building a firearm noise suppresser. It can be made simply out of cardboard and glue. First, a word on "silencers." The term +is a nice one, but very inaccurate. Anyone with more than a layman's knowledge of guns would call them a firearm noise suppresser, but that is also +somewhat misleading. They both sound as if they are a device that either eliminates or muffles the sound of a gun being fired. It really changes the +way it sounds. A "silenced" shot can also make sounds of up to 110 dB, but, if someone shot a gun near you, you wouldn't think,"That sounds like a +muffled gunshot," you'd think "I wonder what that sound was?" The sound that it makes depends upon the suppresser, the weapon, the caliber, and the +ammunition. Basically, there are 3 ways suppressers are made. Either with baffles (little washer-type things spaced at regular intervals along the +body of the silencer), screen (wire mesh wound around the inside walls of the tube), or a combination of the two. For simplicity, this one will use +baffles only, but anyone could adapt it to screen or a combination. + First, you need a tube. A roman candle casing would do the trick nicely, or any parallel wound casing of sufficient length, or you could use good, +sturdy PVC piping. I wouldn't use metal, cause the tube will turn into lethal shrapnel if there is a problem. You can use metal washers, or just +cardboard ones, but you should use the sturdiest type you can find. you can also use copper or steel scrubbing pads if you want to make a screen +version. Optimally, the tube should friction-fit snugly around the gun barrel, but you may not have a convieniently sized tube around, so you can +just wrap some duct tape around the barrel of your gun until it fits right. DO NOT TAPE THE SUPPRESSER TO THE GUN BARREL! Wrap the barrel with tape +evenly until the outside diameter is wide enough to hold the suppresser on. You should use cardboard baffles for your first try, and center them as +well as you can. If a bullet hits a carboard baffle, it will just keep going at a reduced speed. If it hits a metal washer, it will probably +ricochet off and leave the tube through the side, if at all, so you should be extra careful when using metal parts. Now, here's how to make it. + Make some baffles out of cardboard. This is a little tricky, cause a badly placed baffle could be dangerous, and would destroy the silencer. +These can be made either as circles or as circles with flaps to hold them on. The second type will make for a more durable and longer lived +suppresser. Then glue them onto the tube spaced regularly, 3/8" to 1/2" should do it. The tube should be from 8" to 10" long. Leave about 1 1/2" to +2" on one end to go over the barrel. If you have a sight on the gun, you'd be better off removing it, but you can cut a channel with an exacto knife +for it. The baffles should have a hole in them slightly larger than the diameter of the ammunition. Here's the diagram: + + ------------------------------------------- + -------------- I I I I I I I I I I I + ============== + -------------- I I I I I I I I I I I <---baffles + ^ ------------------------------------------- + I ^ + I I + gun barrel I + cardboard tube or + PVC pipe + + BTW, don't build this. Firearm Noise Suppressers are legal in some states, but they require a serial number and a $200 tax for each of them. Even +still, it is dangerous to make something like this, and I strongly suggest you don't try it. If you absolutely HAVE to, at least use a low charge 22 +pistol or, better, rifle. I suppose this design would even have an effect on a pellet or BB gun, because it suppresses the sound of the expanding +gasses coming out of the barrel. I take no responsibility for what you do with this info, etc., etc. That's about it. Watch for more by, + + The Gaurdian + +===================================================================== +----------------------=======SANctuary==============----------------- +===================================================================== + +Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253 diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/schools.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/schools.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..36d9df87 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/schools.txt @@ -0,0 +1,248 @@ +Edition: February 6, 1993 + +The following is a list of nationally known schools that specialize in +firearms training. Some of them hold classes at various locations +around the country while others only hold classes at their home +location. Contact each school directly for complete information on +course offerings, schedule, locations, etc. 36 schools listed. + +Please contact me at one of the addresses below for additions, +corrections, and/or updates to this list. + +Ray Terry (rterry@cup.hp.com) +P.O. Box 110841 +Campbell, CA 95011-0841 + +Standard disclaimers apply. +_______________________________________________________________________ + +Academy of Self-Defense +P.O. Box 1278 +Seattle, WA 98111 +206-523-8642 +Bradley J. Steiner, Instructor + +American Pistol Institute (API) +P.O. Box 401 +Gunsite Ranch +Pauldin, AZ 86334 +602-636-4565 Fax: 602-636-1236 +Richard Jee and Jeff Cooper, Instructors + +American Pistol & Rifle Association +(APRA members only) +Firearms Academy Staff +Box USA +Benton, Tennessee 37307 +615-338-2328 + +American Small Arms Academy +P.O. Box 12111 +Prescott, AZ 86304 +602-778-5623 +Chuck Taylor, Instructor + +Burton's Firearm Instruction +(for women only) +P.O. Box 6084 +Lynnwood, WA 98036-0084 +206-774-7940 +Gale Burton, Instructor + +Calibre Press +(law enforcement and military personnel training) +666 Dundee Road +Ste. 1607 +Northbrook, IL 60062-2760 +708-498-5680 + +Chapman Academy of Practical Shooting +4350 Academy Road +Hallsville, MO 65255 +314-696-5544 +Ray Chapman, Instructor + +Chelsea Gun Club of New York City, Inc. +c/o West Side Range +20 W. 20th Street +New York, NY 10011 +212-929-7287 +James D. Surdo, Instructor + +Cirillo's Tactical Handgun Training +1211 Venetian Way +Panama City, FL 32405 +Jim Cirillo, Instructor + +Defensive Training, Inc. +P.O. Box 917 +LaPorte, CO 80536 +303-482-2520 +John Farnam, Instructor + +Firearms Academy of Seattle +P.O. Box 6691 +Lynnwood, WA 98036-6691 +206-827-0533 +Marty Hayes, Instructor + +Glock, Inc. +(law enforcement and military personnel training) +P.O. Box 369 +Smyrna, GA 30081 +404-432-1202 +Al Bell, Director of Training +Frank DiNuzzo, Assistant Director of Training + +InSights Training Center, Inc. +240 NW Gilman Blvd. +Issaquah, WA 98027 +206-391-4834 +Greg Hamilton, Instructor + +International Shootists Inc. +Closed effective 1/1/93 after 12 years in operation +Mickey Fowler and Mike Dalton, Instructors + +Lethal Force Institute (LFI) +P.O. Box 122 +Concord, NH 03301 +603-224-6814 +Massad Ayoob, Instructor + +Midwest Tactical Training Institute +(law enforcement training) +11311 S. Skunk Hollow Road +Mt. Carroll, IL 61053 +815-244-2815 + +Mid-South Institute of Self-Defense Shooting +(law enforcement and military personnel training) +2170 Springmeade Cove +Germantown, TN 38138 +601-781-1112 +John Shaw, Instructor + +National Rifle Association +1600 Rhode Island Avenue, N.W. +Washington, D.C. 20036-3268 +202-828-6281 for info on NRA basic training classes in your local area +202-828-6167 (Rhea Barnes) for info about instructor schools +202-828-6177 (Mary Panepucci) for info about schools for police only + +OffShoots Training Institute +(law enforcement and military personnel training) +P.O. Box 719 +Kennesaw, GA 30144 +404-422-0158 +Jerry and Cathy Lane, Instructors + +Personal Protection Strategies +(specializing in women's training) +9903 Santa Monica Blvd. +Suite 300 +Beverly Hills, CA 90212 +310-281-1762 +Paxton Quigley, Instructor + +Personal Protections Systems, Ltd. +(tactical submachine gun training for law enforcement, civilian +owners of class 3 weapons, and class 3 weapons dealers) +Aberdeen Rd R.D. #5, Box 5027 A +Moscow, PA 18444 +717-842-1766 Fax: 717-842-2702 +Aron Lipman and Ken Hackathorn, Instructors + +Plaxco Academy +21621 Roland Cut-Off Rd +Roland, AR 72135 +501-868-9787, 501-868-9767 +J. Michael Plaxco, Instructor + +Police Training Division +(law enforcement and military personnel training) +2 Edgebrook Lane +Monsey, NY 10952 +Peter Tarley, Instructor + +Practical Shooting Academy, The +P.O. Box 319 +Yampa, CO 80483 +303-638-4685 +Ron Avery, Instructor + +Serious Sportsman, Inc. +100 Middletown Road +Pearl River, NY +914-735-7722 +John Perkins, Instructor + +Shoot-N-Iron, Inc. +17205 Gaddy Road +Shawnee, OK 74801 +405-273-4822 or 273-4180 +Paul Abel, Instructor + +Smith & Wesson Academy +(law enforcement training) +2100 Roosevelt Avenue +Springfield, MA 01102-2208 +800-331-0852 extension 255/265 + +Sturm, Ruger & Company +Law Enforcement Division +Lacey Place +Southport, CT 06490 +203-259-7843 + +Tactical Training Center +(some courses are law-enforcement only) +574 Miami Bluff Ct. +Loveland, OH 45140 +513-677-8229 + +Talons Firearms Training, Inc. +11645 North Highway 287 +LaPorte, CO 80535 +303-493-2221 +Ron Phillips and Kyle Caffey, Instructors + +Threat Management Institute (TMI) +800 West Napa St. +Sonoma, CA น5476 +707-939-0303 Fax: 707-939-8684 BBS: 707-935-1713 +Internet: tmi@netcom.com, tmi@well.sf.ca.us +Peter Kasler and Peggi Bird, Instructors + +Thunder Ranch, Inc. +HCR 1, Box 53 +Mountain Home, Texas 78058 +210-640-3138 Fax: 210-640-3183 +Clint Smith, Instructor + +Universal Shooting Academy +14715 S. W. 46th Lane +Miami, FL 33185 +305-688-0262 +Frank and Judy Garcia, Instructors + +US Marksmanship Academy +P.O. Box 30126 +Phoenix, AZ 85046 +602-220-0750 +James Jarrett, Instructor + +White Feather Inc. +(law enforcement training) +600 Raff Road +Virgina Beach, VA 63462 +804-499-6659 +GYSGT Carlos N. Hathcock II, U.S.M.C. (Ret.), Instructor + +Yavapai Firearms Academy +P.O. Box 27290 +Prescott Valley, AZ 86312 +602-772-8262 +Louis Awerboch, Instructor + +[end] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/scopes.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/scopes.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..d4f4d9c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/scopes.txt @@ -0,0 +1,372 @@ + Combat Arms + 2869 Grove Way + Castro Valley, California 94546-6709 + Telephone (415) 538-6544 + BBS Phone: (415) 537-1777 + + + ษออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออป + บ บ + บ Scopes for Dopes บ + บ บ + ศออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออออผ + + + I have compiled and written the following to help the reader learn +something about rifle and pistol scopes. Since rifle and pistol scopes are +the same for our purposes (and since I do not sell 3 pistol scopes a year), +this talk will remain limited to rifle scopes mounted on .223 and .308 +weapons such as the Colt AR-15, HK-91, SSG and FN-LAR. The information is +also valid if you mount the scope on your typical hunting gun but I do not +sell that kind of weapon and know little about them. + + First of all, let's discuss FIXED POWER scopes. If your shooting +conditions do not vary a great deal (meaning that you are generally +shooting at the same distance most of the time), you should choose a scope +with a fixed magnification. A high quality fixed power scope in 4 to 6 +power will cover everything you need to do out to 500 yards without having +to fiddle with things and readjust the power setting on a variable power +scope. I recommend that you consider a 6 power scope with about a 42 +millimeter objective and a 4 power scope with a 32mm objective. + + VARIABLE POWER scopes are useful at low power in order to provide you +with a wide field of view for close distances or wooded areas. The higher +magnifications are used for longer distances in open areas for greater +detail. Variable power scopes range from a 1ฌ to 4 power scope to 2ซ to 10 +power scope. The problem with variable power scopes is with the user. If +you constantly shoot using the high power setting there you are wrong to +buy the more expensive variable power scope. If that's the case, a fixed +power scope is less expensive and is the right tool for the job. + + Another consideration with variable power relates to the field of +view. Field of view is the measurement of the diameter of the field of +vision seen by the observer while looking through the optical device. This +measurement is determined at different distances from the instrument, +depending on whether the product is a riflescope, spotting scope or set of +binoculars. As a general rule, the higher the magnification of a particular +instrument and the smaller the diameter of the objective lens, the more +restricted the field of view will be. If the power gets too great, the +field of view will be too small. At higher powers, a slight movement of the +instrument results in a radical change in the viewing area. + + The field of view may also be influenced by several practical, rather +than optical, considerations. Any time the distance from the eyepiece to +the eye (called "eye relief") is extended, there is a corresponding +narrowing of the field of view. This may be necessary in products such as +riflescopes in order to prevent the riflescope from contacting the eyebrow +during the recoil of the gun. + + In pistol scopes or other extended eye relief applications, the field +of view will be further reduced. Riflescope field of view is determined at +100 yards (or meters if a European scope), while both spotting scopes and +binoculars have their fields of view measured at 1,000 yards (or meters). + + Why do some scopes cost so much more than others? The secret is in the +optics. Higher quality scopes use the very best optical glass to make the +lens. The best raw glass blanks are then polished by skilled craftsmen into +lenses of very close tolerances. The very best glass lenses are made in +Europe. + + The accuracy with which any optical instrument registers an image +depends on the quality of lens grinding and polishing. The primary silica +glass material must be free of all impurities and the lens surface finish +and curvature must be absolutely precise. The ability of the instrument to +distinguish fine detail will be in direct proportion to the care taken in +lens manufacture. Since lens quality is something that cannot be properly +judged by the human eye, one should not expect to purchase a quality optic +at a bargain basement price. Simply put, the more a lens manufacturer must +put into the production of its products, the greater must be the price. +Because optical lenses are highly polished, it is a fact of optical science +that approximately five percent of the light that enters or leaves that +lens will be reflected back upon itself. Should a particular optical device +contain 10 or 12 different lens elements (like a rifle scope), the total +reflected light could conceivably be as much as 50-60 percent. + + To prevent this loss of image, lens manufacturers coat their lenses +with a special anti-reflective coating especially formulated for maximum +light transmission of over 90 percent. This coating is of a specific type +and thickness. The process involves molecular bombardment of the coating +material in a vacuum onto the lens surface. This coating greatly reduces +internal reflection and increases image contrast, which enhances the detail +that the eye can see. + + It is impossible for 100% of the light entering the front of the scope +to reach your eye. A cheap scope will have a darker image than one with a +great refractive coating job done to the lenses. Also, the better scopes +will enable you to have a brighter image and to continue to see under +poorer lighting conditions, such as at dawn and dusk. One trick to help you +in shopping for a scope is to look at the objective (the front end of the +scope that gathers the light). The poorer the coating put on the lenses, +the more the lens will act as a mirror and reflect your image. The better +manufacturers use a magnesium fluoride coating on the lenses. Good scopes +have a poorer mirror image, thus transmitting more light and a sharper, +brighter image of the target to your eye. + + This coating material is easily discerned by its color, which is often +seen as purple, straw or a faint green. The most common type of coating is +magnesium fluoride but more exotic multi-layer coatings provide enhanced +image transmission. The time, cost and quality control involved in the +coating process seriously affects the final price of the unit. Since it is +impossible to determine the coating's thickness or the type of coating used +without laboratory instruments, you must trust the manufacturer's +reputation. Bear in mind, that below a certain retail price line, the +quality of the lens grinding, polishing and coating are unknown quantities +and are generally inferior. + + Color fidelity is important and is related to lens quality and coating +preciseness. Looking through a cheap scope, the colors will not appear +true. This is critical in a wooded or jungle environment which already has +reduced light. + + You want a scope which will withstand the recoil of the weapon and has +its reticles ("crosshairs") centered. The scope should be dust proof and +moisture proof. There must be very precise click adjustments to the scope. +It is best if the scope has ฌ, 1/3, or ซ minute of arc adjustments per +click. Thus, one click on a scope with ฌ minute of arc adjustment with +change the point of impact ฌ inch at 100 meters (109.36 yards). This fine +adjustment becomes important at longer distances. If your shooting +regularly includes distances greater than 500 meters, choose a scope with ฌ +minute of arc adjustments, unless the precision is unimportant. + + Beware of the overuse of the term "twilight factor" in a scope's +description. It is arrived at by a simple formula which only takes +magnification and objective lens diameter into account. This is misleading +because it leaves out important information about the lens coating, the +quality of the scope tube, and the quality of the blackness inside the +tube. Optical data say nothing about the quality of the scope! Just as the +caliber and magazine capacity of a weapon tell you nothing about the +accuracy of the piece, optical data does not necessarily equate with +quality. If a salesman starts pitching numbers at you regarding optical +data, walk away in a hurry because he simply does not know what the hell +he's talking about but has merely memorized some data to impress you. + + The way to correctly use the twilight factor is to understand that the +pupil of the human eye during daylight conditions will be open to +approximately 2 to 5 millimeters and will increase its opening to 7mm in +dark conditions to allow more light to enter the eye. A rifle scope will +"funnel" light into an exit area for the eye to view the target. This exit +area, referred to as the "exit pupil" by optical engineers, should +correspond to the pupil of the human eye in dark conditions. The exit pupil +of the scope can best be understood by holding the scope about two feet +away from your eye. The small disk of light that appears in the rear ocular +lens (the engineering term for the eyepiece) is the actual area your eye +looks into the scope, not the entire rear eyepiece - only that small pupil +area of light. The pupil of the human eye and the exit pupil discussed +above should correspond very closely. so that the full amount of light +concentrated at the exit pupil of the scope will enter the eye of the +shooter. + + For example, a 6x42 scope (6 power magnification with a 42mm +objective) will "funnel" its 42mm of light gathered from its 42mm objective +six times (the power of the scope). The resulting final image is then +concentrated into the 7mm exit pupil. To find the size of the exit pupil +image in millimeters, simply divide the size of the objective in +millimeters by the power; in our example 42 ๖ 6 = 7. This 7mm exit pupil is +equivalent to the maximum normal opening of the pupil of the human eye +(forget about the pupil diameter caused by opiates!). A 8x56 scope will +"funnel" more light because of its 56mm diameter and will therefore appear +brighter then the 6x42 scope. Extending this theory to its illogical +conclusion, a 10x70 scope would be even brighter still, but how the hell +could you mount a scope with a 70mm objective? Thus we can see that a 8x56 +scope or a variable power scope with a 56mm objective set at 8 power is +about the brightest we can expect. Such a scope will enable you to see your +target under rather unfavorable dark conditions. + + + Now that you know all of that, we can define twilight factor as the +square root of the product of the magnification and the objective in +millimeters. For example, a fixed 6 power scope with a 42mm objective has a +twilight factor of: + _______ ___ + ๛ x 42 = ๛52 = 15.9 + + Zeiss says the twilight factor can give you some measurement of the +visibility of details in twilight. The higher the twilight factor, the +better the visibility in poor light, with all other conditions the same. +But this says nothing about the quality of the glass, the lens coating, the +tube strength, etc. So, the better manufacturers suggest that you do not +rely on the twilight factor when comparing scopes, especially when +comparing different brand names. + + Early optical instruments had bodies made of brass but this material +proved too heavy and tarnished easily. Modern optical devices use bodies +constructed of steel, aluminum or synthetics. + + Should the scope tube be aluminum or steel? Steel offers strength and +resistance to thermal expansion but can rust and requires a higher level of +maintenance unless it is specially coated. Steel weighs more but it is +stronger. Many gunsmiths will tell you that there is no substitute for +steel. + + Aluminum has widespread usage in the optics field because it is +lightweight, rustproof and resistant to wear. Aluminum expands more than +steel when heated. This must be compensated for by a more rigid mounting +system for the lenses so they will not more when subjected to variations in +temperature. + + Synthetic materials offer lower weight, lower maintenance, high damage +resistance and total thermal stability. The use of synthetic is found more +in binoculars and spotting scopes. Expect to see riflescope tubes made from +graphite and other materials. + + The modern scope mount clamping assembly places a high demand on the +stability of the sight. On the other hand, the better manufacturers have a +line of aluminum tubes that can withstand the pressures put upon them by +the clamps. There are various grades of steel and aluminum and the simple +truth is that the cheaper scopes use cheaper materials. Choose steel if +ruggedness, stability and absolute accuracy are the criteria. If weight is +the consideration, choose the alloy tube. The tube should be finished with +several layers of plating and a baked enamel outside finish. This protects +your investment in the scope. You don't want a finish that will wear and +expose bare metal to the air. + + Who makes the better scopes? The Rolls Royce of scopes is made by Carl +Zeiss of West Germany. They are in first place. There is a tie for second +place, in my opinion, held by Swarovski, Schmidt & Bender, Hensoldt, +Kahles, Steiner, and Nikon. These are all European manufacturers. The tie +for third place goes to Leupold, who makes all of their scopes in America, +and to Nikon, who makes its scopes in Japan. The higher priced Leupold +scopes edge them towards second place. There is no sense in wasting your +time discussing the quality of Nikon except to say that they are new to the +rifle scope business. The Nikon scopes I have sold have been good value for +the money and are priced affordably. The Nikon 3-9X scope has a 40 mm +objective, ฌ minute of arc adjustment for windage and elevation, weighs +only 16.06 ounces (455 grams), is 12.32 inches in length and has a field of +view of 11ซ to 34ซ feet at 100 yards (as a function of the power setting). +These values for the Nikon are included because they are typical of those +found in the better scopes. In my considered opinion, Redfield is in fourth +place and Bushnell and Tasco are in fifth. Somewhere farther down the line +is Simmons. If you are putting a scope on the AR-15, consider Tasco's +armored scope. Believe it or not, it is perfect for the job and is one of +Tasco's finest scopes. It is also Colt's choice for the Delta HBAR and +retails for $129.95 plus the $59.95 mount, thus saving you considerable +money. I am amazed at Tasco's quality in this one particular scope (called +their World Class series). Too bad it does not extend across their entire +line. + + My suggestions are to choose a fixed power, lower magnification scope +for use in the brush. The maximum power scope you can really quickly shoot +off hand is 6 power, so a 6x42 scope is an excellent choice. Some people +feel that magnifications higher than six power simply magnify the shooter's +errors and make the shooter reluctant to fire a quick shot without support. +The 8x56 style fixed power scope really should be used with support. The +variable power scope in the 3-9 power category generally has a 42mm +objective and there are quality variable power scopes with 56mm objectives. +The 3 to 9 power variable should be set to 6 power at dusk and during dark +shooting conditions. Remember that 42mm ๖ 6 = 7mm and 7mm is the magic +number for the maximum normal opening of the pupil of the human eye! Use +the 8 power setting if your variable power scope goes up to 12 power. The +lower power settings of the variable permit better offhand shots while the +higher powers make target identification easier. Select a scope with a 56mm +objective only if you intend to shoot under dusk or dim light conditions, +such as in a wooded area or under a jungle canopy and need such light +gathering capability. + + A note regarding Zeiss scopes. All Zeiss scopes have a 30 year +warranty, multiple layer lens coatings. Diatal indicates a fixed power +scope while Diavari means a variable power scope. The Zeiss scope will +withstand 1,000 g's in recoil forces with very negligible change in the +point of impact. The scopes all have ฌ minute of arc adjustment for windage +and elevation. There is no change in the point of impact with changes in +magnification on variable power Zeiss scopes. All are fog free and sealed +for protection from weather. Scopes with a 1" tube have their calibration +in ฌ inch at 100 yards. Their 26 and 30mm scopes are calibrated for 1 cm at +100 meters.The 1" tube scope are more compact than the metric scopes. + + It would hardly be fair to have explained all of this and say nothing +about binoculars, so let's turn our attention to them for a moment. +Binoculars are really two separate monoculars, hinged along a central axis, +about which the separate monocular halves can rotate to accommodate the +varying separation between individual eyes so that the binoculars will fit +any person. + + Center focus binoculars feature a central focus knob that moves both +halves of the binocular simultaneously to adjust the focus of the +instrument. Usually, one eyepiece has an individual plus or minus +adjustment to make up for the slight differences in eye focus. Individual +focus knobs eliminate the central focus knob and each half of the binocular +is focused separately. + + The major difference between binoculars is in their basic prism system +design. Traditional binocular configuration is the offset "z" shape of the +individual binocular halves. These are called "porro prism" designs. The +porro prism method of making binoculars gives the manufacturer a rather +wide tolerance in fabrication without sacrificing optical quality. This +means theat porro prism style binoculars generally cost less. The drawback +is that porro prism systems are heavier and physically bigger binoculars. + + Another design method is called the "roof prism" style of binocular +construction. They eliminate much of the porro prism design's bulk. Because +both lenses of a roof prism binocular are in a straight line, the usual "z" +shapped binocular tube associated with the porro prism method is +eliminated. This results in a sleeker, straighter tube. Very precise +toleerances are necessary when building a roof prism instrument and this +results in higher costs. A negative aspect of the roof prism design is that +it results in an overall loss 10 to 12 percent of the light transmission +due to the nature of the prism system used. For the vast majority of +people, this loss is inconsequential and is more than compensated for by +the reduced weight and bulk of the more compact roof prism design. + + Here are the prices of the Zeiss and Schmidt & Bender scopes. This +will give you some feel for what a truly good scope costs. If quality is +important to you then stick with one of the better European manufacturers. +Quality costs money. If you think you can get high quality at a low price, +your parents lied to you. It ain't possible! + + ZEISS RIFLE SCOPES + +Fixed power - 1" tube +5210909920 4 power with 32mm objective 600.00 +5210919920 6 power with 32mm objective 650.00 +5210929920 10 power with 36mm objective 770.00 +Fixed power - 26mm or 30mm tube +5210819908 4 power with 32mm objective 600.00 +5210839908 6 power with 42mm objective 700.00 +5210859908 8 power with 56mm objective 900.00 +Variable power - 1" tube +5210979920 3 to 9 power with 36mm objective 1050.00 +5210069920 1.5 to 4 power with 18mm objective 900.00 +Variable power - 26mm or 30mm tube +5210979920 1.5 to 6 power with 42mm objective 1000.00 +5210069920 2.5 to 10 power with 52mm objective 1160.00 + + SCHMIDT & BENDER RIFLE SCOPES + +Fixed power steel scopes: + 001515 1ซ power with 15mm objective 690.00 + 043600 4 power with 36mm objective 730.00 + 064200 6 power with 42mm objective 770.00 + 085600 8 power with 56mm objective 870.00 + 124200 12 power with 42mm objective 890.00 + +Variable power alloy scopes: + 014200 1ฌ to 4 power with 20mm objective 930.00 + 016420 1ซ to 6 power with 42mm objective 1020.00 + 021056 2ซ to 10 power with 56mm objective 1230.00 + 01642S 1ซ to 6 power with 42mm objective - Sniper grade 1680.00 + 04025S 4 power Sniper with 25mm objective 1360.00 + +*** *** *** *** *** *** *** SPECIAL OFFERING *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** + + Because the better line of scopes described above are really new to +the San Francisco Bay area, Combat Arms is offering a special 20% discount +to any BBS customer on any Zeiss or Schmidt & Bender scope if paid in +advance in cash. A discount of 15% applies if paid by credit card. This +offers expires December 31, 1989. + + + + ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS + + + I am grateful to Zeiss and Schmidt & Bender for the material they +provided. Also thanks go to Durwood Hollis for his article called "The +Clear Picture on Optics" in the September/October, 1988 issue of Shooting +Sports Retailer magazine. + + +Richard M. Bash - Owner +Combat Arms +Castro Valley, California +January 14, 1989 + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/selfdefense.txt b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/selfdefense.txt new file mode 100644 index 00000000..33e60865 --- /dev/null +++ b/textfiles.com/anarchy/WEAPONS/selfdefense.txt @@ -0,0 +1,680 @@ +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += STREETWISE SELF DEFENCE = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += This TEXT file was entirely typed by RENEGADE [RAF] = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += CONTENTS: = += = += PART I : THE BASICS = += PART II : BEST TECHNIQUES = += PART III : DEFENCE AGAINST GRABBING AND HOLDING = += PART IV : DEFENCE AGAINST WEAPON ATTACK = += PART V : EVERYDAY ARTICLES AS WEAPONS = += PART VI : DISCLAIMER = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +Self defence becomes more important every year. Yet the traditional Martial +Arts demand a physical fitness and understanding of complex techniques which +are beyond most of us. + +HERE IS A NEW AND PRACTICAL SYSTEM WHICH RECOGNISES OUR LIMITATIONS. + +It is quick and easy to learn because it is based on adopting one move to a +variety of defensive situations. + +The system assumes that the defence will be against a more powerful attacker. + +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += PART I : THE BASICS = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +INTRODUCTION : +-------------- + +This file has been written for those of us who do not want to take up the +martial arts as a sport, but who would like to be able to defend ourselves in +a potentially dangerous situation. + +This course is intended to teach you to cope with practical situations, i.e. +circumstances in which you may actually find yourself. You may not aspire to +a black belt, but you will learn how to defend yourself effectively in a +emergency. You don't have to be particularly fit or well co-ordinated to use +these techniques, which have also been designated for the not-so-strong. +They are simple and easy to learn. They are also highly effective. + +PRACTICE : +---------- + +"Practice makes perfect" they say, and this is true. Practise what you would +do in a serious situation, so that you are sure of your moves. Try to do +this with a partner, to help you practise the timing of these moves. Try to +choose moves which you find easier and which come more naturally to you. +It is advisable to practise in your everyday clothes, as these are what you +are most likely to be wearing in the event of an attack. + +Practise punching, kicking and jabbing as described in the PART II firstly and +very slowly. When you have mastered the moves slowly, build up your speed and +power, but without a partner. Finally, practise your self defence techniques +with a partner, so that you can put what you have learned into practice and +get used to body contact. + +SOME GENERAL GROUND RULES : +--------------------------- + +There are some important rules on how to react if attacked. If you bear +these in mind, you already have the advantage over your attacker. + +If at all possible, avoid a confrontation. Try to engage your assailant in +a conversation. This way you gain time to calm yourself down and work out +an effective strategy to fight off your attacker. +If you cannot avoid a fight : + +1. Breathe slowly and deeply to calm your nerves. +2. ALWAYS look your attacker in the eyes. +3. Turn sideways to make it harder for your attacker to grab you. +4. Only use techniques you have really mastered. DON'T hesitate. +5. Be careful not to let yourself be cornered, and don't allow yourself to be + backed up into a doorway or against a wall. + +THE LAW AND SELF DEFENCE : +-------------------------- + +Section 3(1) of the Criminal Law Act 1967 states : + + " .... a person may use reasonable force in the prevention of crime ...." + +Obviously " prevention of crime " covers a wide range, but this may include + +1. Defence of yourself +2. Defence of another +3. Defence of property + +What is considered reasonable depends on the circumstances and is, ultimately, +a matter for a jury to decide. That is, if you have been slapped, it would be +unreasonable to defend yourself with a knife. If you use more force than is +reasonable in the circumstances, you could be prosecuted. + +SHOCK TACTICS. THE ELEMENT OF SURPRISE : +---------------------------------------- + +Surprise is an important factor in self defence. If used properly it throws +your assailant off balance and may give you valuable time. There are many +types of shock tactics but I shall restrict myself to a few simple ones which +will distract or confuse your attacker. + +1. Sudden, loud screaming +2. Spitting in the attacker's face +3. Smiling while looking behind of the attacker + +THE MOST VULNERABLE AREAS OF THE HUMAN BODY : +--------------------------------------------- + +The eyes and groin are your MAIN TARGETS. A hard kick or punch in the groin +will quickly put men out of action, and can even render them unconscious. +This is a very sensitive part of the body and very vulnerable to injury, no +matter how big and strong a man can be. You can achieve similar results by +jabbing your assailant in the eyes with your fingers, which is one of the +best methods of self defence. Your attacker will be helpless if he cannot see. + +Of course, the human body can be attacked in other areas like nose, chin, +knee, shin and bridge of the foot. These are your SECONDARY TARGETS. + +DIRECT YOUR PUNCHES AND KICKS, AS DESCRIBED, ONLY AT THE MARKED POINTS OF THE +BODY, AS OTHERWISE THEY MAY NOT AFFECT YOUR ATTACKER. + +THE RIGHT STANCE : +------------------ + +Correct stance is essential as a basis for all defence movements. In order to +achieve maximum mobility, balance your weight equally on both legs, keeping +your knees slightly bent. Do not tense up; relax and be prepared to react +quickly on all sides. Your shoulders should be diagonal to your assailant, so +that you present the least surface area for your attacker to grab. Protect +your chest and your chin by keeping your arms up at an angle. Clench your +fists to minimise any damage to your fingers when defending or blocking. This +is NOT a static position, quite the opposite, and you should be constantly +moving, like a boxer in the ring. Do not keep your arms still, but remember to +keep up your guard. This behaviour will confuse your attacker, leaving him no +time to recognise the defensive action you may be taking. Try to stay out of +reach of your attacker, but remember to maintain eye contact. + +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += PART II : BEST TECHNIQUES = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +USING YOUR HANDS : +------------------ + +In this part of the course you will learn techniques in which you can use your +hands, arms, elbows or fingers as weapons with which to disable your attacker. +The difference between a punch and a slap is the way in which the arm or hand +movement is carried out. When pushing or punching, the arm movement is always +straight ahead, towards the attacker, whereas, when slapping, the arm movement +is circular or semi-circular (a swing or a hook). + +In self defence it's very important to learn how to use your hands as weapons. +A well-targeted punch, using the heel of your hand or elbow, is easily carried +out and highly effective if your FULL body weight is behind it. + +It is NOT necessary to harden the skin on your hands or elbows on order to +make'em less sensitive to pain; they have been designated by nature to resist +knocks and punches. + +Making a fist in the correct way is very important to prevent any finger +injuries when punching your assailant or using blocking techniques. When your +fist is clenched correctly, the thumb should lie in front of your index and +middle finger, and NOT be covered by them. + +Move 1 : JABBING WITH THE HEEL OF THE HAND + +Bend the fingers up, hold your palm upright and bend it back as far back as +you can. Take up the correct stance and push your hand forward with as much +force as possible. The palm will connect with the target area. Remember to +swivel your hips and follow through in the same direction. The best effects +can be achieved if you hit your attacker just under the nose + +Move 1 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. Your opponent is about to aim a punch at your head. +2. Take evasive action by moving one step diagonally forward from the normal + position. +3. Block the punch and, at the same time, jab the heel of your hand under your + attacker's nose. + +Move 2 : THE FINGER JAB + +This techniques is highly effective but may also cause severe eye injury. For +this reason, the finger jab should only be used in life-threatening attacks. +Bend your index and middle fingers slightly. Stand in the correct basic stance +and move forwards to carry out the finger jab. + +Move 2 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. Your assailant is trying to strangle you with both hands. +2. Hunch your shoulders and pull your chin in to protect your neck. +3. Now jab your assailant in the eyes with your fingers, taking a step + backwards at the same time. + +Move 3 : ELBOW PUNCH + +The most important thing to remember here is to bend your arm very sharply. +You can elbow forwards or backwards. Your assailant is then hit by the hard +little bone of elbow. If you elbow forwards, your arm moves in a semi-circle, +hitting the side of your attacker's face or his chin. If you elbow backwards, +stretch your arm out forwards, with the back of your clenched fist facing +downwards, and then bring your arm backwards sharply and with as much force as +you can muster. In both cases, your fists should stay clenched and you should +follow through with your shoulders. + +Move 3 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. Your attacker grabs your arm. +2. You step forward, bringing your arm up in a semi-circle. +3. As you set your foot down, elbow your attacker in the face. This way you + have the FULL force of your body weight behind you. + +USING YOUR FEET : +----------------- + +Using your legs gives you the advantage of greater reach, coupled with the +fact that your legs are considerably stronger than your arms. If you react +quickly enough, there is a good chance that you will be able to stop the +attack in its initial stages. All the kicks are easy to learn. Good balance +and speed are important. A quick, powerful kick to a sensitive part of the +body is one of the best methods of self defence. Aim your kicks below the belt +and always kick with as much speed and force as possible. + +Move 1 : FRONT KICK + +Start with your kicking foot behind you. Then raise your knee until your thigh +is almost horizontal and kick sharply upwards with the lower half of your leg. +Then bring your leg back quickly to the starting position, with your kicking +foot behind you. This kick is carried out in one movement, with the bridge of +your foot hitting your attacker's groin. Imagine you are kicking a foot ball +with all your might. + +Move 1 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. The attacker grabs you with both arms. +2. You set your kicking foot behind you and spread your arms out. +3. Now lift your leg and shoot your lower leg forwards + +Move 2 : SIDE KICK + +When you use the side kick, you hit either your attacker's knee or shin with +the outside edge of your foot, or the sole of your foot. Lift your front foot +up to knee height and then, using your hip, kick sideways with as much force +as you can, keeping your leg extended. By pivoting on your balancing foot, you +will be able to use full force of your hips and follow the movement through. +If carried out correctly, the heel fo your extended foot will point towards +your assailant. Bring your leg back to the starting position immediately. To +add power to your technique, lean a plank of wood against a wall and practise +the hip movement, by kicking the plank until you can break it. Remember to +keep your shoes on when practising this techniques (if you are VERY stupid you +can try that with your shoes OFF !!!!!) + +Move 2 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. Your attacker grabs your arm. +2. Lift your front knee up. +3. Keeping your leg extended sideways, kick your attacker in the knee. +4. Then wrench your arm free. + +Move 3 : HEEL STAMP + +The heel stamp is used solely to distract your opponent, before you follow it +up with another defence technique or action. From your basic position, bring +your knee up as high as possible and then stamp down sharply with the heel of +your foot. Your heel should hit the bridge of your assailant's foot. Remember +to keep your toes pointing upwards, so that your heel is in the correct +position. If you are carrying out a heel stamp to the rear, keep your toes +pointing downwards, to make sure you connect with your target. You should hit, +rather than his thumb, the weakest point, i.e. the little finger. + +Move 3 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. Your assailant grabs your arm. +2. Lift your foot and stamp on your assailant's foot with all your might. +3. Then wrench your arm free. + +Move 4 : KNEEING YOUR OPPONENT + +This is a technique used in close combat and therefore ideally suited to self +defence. Speed and power are essential for this move to be effective. The top +of your knee should connect with your assailant's groin. + +Move 4 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. Your assailant grabs you in a body hold with both arms. +2. Grab your assailant by the hips, push yourself away from him, at the same + time stepping back with one leg. +3. Pull your opponent down and bring your knee up sharply into his groin, with + as much force as you can. + +BLOCKING OR DEFENSIVE TACTICS : +------------------------------- + +As you would expect, it is defence and not attack, which is the cornerstone of +self defence. The object is to divert or deflect any blows or punches your +assailant may be aiming to you, and to protect your own body from severe +injury. It is only possible to attack your opponent if you first deflect his +attack on you. First, we should distinguish between the upward block, which +deflects attacks to the head and shoulders, and the downward block, which +prevents attacks on the chest and abdomen. When defending yourself, never +carry out only a blocking movement, without following it up with a counter +move. Only by doing both, will you be able to prevent any renewed attack, and +also protect yourself. + +Move 1 : UPWARD BLOCK FIGURE.1 + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + = = +Block the attacking arm with = / / \ \ = +the area of the forearm = /**/ \**\ = +shwon in the figure.1 = / / \ \ = +( * = BLOCK HERE ) = \ \___________/ \__________/ / = + = \ RIGHT LEFT / = + = \___ ARM ARM ___/ = + = \ / = + =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +Move your rear leg diagonally forward from the basic stance, bringing your arm +up in front of your face. The power of any attack on you can be further +diluited by stepping to the side or rear with other leg. + +Move 1 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. You are in the basic defence stance. +2. Your attacker tries to throw a punch to your head. You move diagonally + forwards, deflecting the power of the blow. +3. The underside of your forearm immediately blocks your attacker's striking + arm. + +Move 2 : DOWNWARD BLOCK + +Here, again, you should move diagonally forward from the basic position and +bring your arm down to protect the lower part of the body. + +Move 2 : DEMONSTRATION + +1. Your assailant attemps to punch you in the abdomen. +2. From the basic stance, move diagonally forward, slamming your arm down + sharply on your opponent's wrist. +3. Now deflect your assailant's striking arm to the side, weakening the + potential force of the blow. + +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += PART III : DEFENCE AGAINST GRABBING AND HOLDING = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +Wrenching free from a body hold is not always easy. This is why it is crucial +to react as quickly as possible if an assailant tries to grab and hold you, so +that the attack can be stopped in its initial stages. However, if your +attacker has already managed to get you in a body hold, the next few pages +should help you to deal with this. By using the following techniques, with as +much power as you can, you will probably be able to break free. + +FINGER WRENCH : +--------------- + +This can be extremely painful if properly carried out. The pain can be +maximised by pulling and twisting the finger joints. Pull the fingers away +from the joints: in this case it is up and back across the back of the hand. +Pull the little finger if possible, because this is the weakest joint. + +COMPRESSION BLOW: +----------------- + +Cup your hands over your assailant's ears, and then slam your hands very +sharply into the side of the head, so that the compressed air in your hands +creates pressure in the ears of your adversary. This creates a balance +distrubance and temporarily disables your attacker. + +HEAD BUTT: +---------- + +Use your forehead, or the back of your head, to butt your opponent. This move +has the advantage of the element of surprise and will not injure you, +providing you hit your attacker's nose. You will be considerably more sure to +hit nose if you can grip your attacker's head. + +OTHER VARIOUS TECHNIQUES: +------------------------- + +* GETTING OUT OF A ONE-ARM HOLD + You are leaning against a fence. A man tries to force his attentions on you, + placing an arm around your shoulders. Elbow him sharply in the ribs and + follow up with a powerful punch to the nose. + +* DEALING WITH AN AMBUSH + You are walking along the street. Suddenly someone grabs you and tries to + force his attentions on you. Raise your knee and, using the front kick + technique, kick your assailant in the groin. + +* DEALING WITH A SHOULDER HOLD FROM BEHIND + A man is following you. He grabs you by the shoulder and tries to pull you + towards him. Spin round as fast as you can and jab his nose with the heel of + your hand. + +* DEFENDING YOURSELF WHILST SEATED + You are sitting on a bench. A man sits down next to you and puts his hand + on your knee. Stay seated, swivel round and jab him in the nose with the + heel of your hand. + +* WHEN YOUR BAG IS GRABBED FROM BEHIND + You are standing in the street. Suddenly someone grabs your bag from behind. + Bend your arm inwards to hold on tight to your bag and follow up with a side + kick to the knee. + +* IF YOUR HAIR IS PULLED FROM THE SIDE + An assailant approaches from behind and then pulls your hair from the side. + Grab your opponent's arm and turn inwards to face him. Then jab your + attacker on the nose with the heel of your hand. + +* IF YOUR HAIR IS PULLED FROM THE FRONT + Your assailant pulls your hair from the front. Grab him by the hips, pull + him down and slam your knee into his groin. + +* DEALING WITH A DIAGONAL HAND HOLD + Your assailant grabs you by the forearm. Step towards your assailant. Jab + him in the nose with the heel of your hand and wrench your arm away. + +* IF YOU ARE ATTACKED GETTING OUT OF YOUR CAR + Your attacker opens your car door and tries to pull you out of the car. Lean + back across the passenger seat and slam your foot heel into opponent's face + or groin. If you do NOT have time to carry out the above move, you may still + be able to defend yourself with a finger jab to the eyes. + +* UNDERARM HOLD FROM BEHIND + You are about to open your car door. At that moment you are grabbed from the + rear. You raise your knee and stamp hard on your opponent's foot. Then grab + your assailant's little finger and pull it right back. Your assailant will + loosen his grip and you will be able to break free. Then jab his nose with + the heel of your hand. + +* OVERARM HOLD FROM BEHIND + Your attacker grabs you from behind with both arms. Raise your knee and + stamp hard on your assailant's foot. Now pull your arm forward and snap it + back sharply into your assailant's ribs. Turn to face your attacker and jab + him in the nose with the heel of your hand. + +* GETTING OUT OF A DOUBLE NELSON + Your opponent has got you in a double Nelson. You react with the utmost + speed and raise your knee. Stamp with all your weight, keeping your heel + well down. Then move your arms up and pull your attacker's little finger + wrenching it to the side. Once you have broken free, slam your elbow back + into your attacker. + +* UNDERARM HOLD FROM THE FRONT + You are walking along a path. Suddenly you are grabbed from the front by + someone walking towards you. Hit your attacker on both ears using a + compression blow and break free, jabbing your assailant's nose with the + heel of your hand. + +* OVERARM BODY HOLD FROM THE FRONT + Your opponent grabs you with both arms. Raise your knee and stamp hard on + your attacker's foot so that he will loosen his grip. Then knee your + assailant in the groin. + +* GETTING OUT OF A HEAD HOLD + Your attacker has your head in a firm hold. Hit your attacker in the groin + with the heel of your hand. At the same time, use your other hand to pull + your attacker's hair and pull hime backwards away from you. Then jab your + attacker on the chin with the heel of your hand. + +* STRANGLE HOLD FROM BEHIND + Your assailant approaches from behind and begins to strangle you. Tense your + neck muscles and stretch your arms out in front and then elbow your + assailant in the ribs, as hard as you can. At the same time, use the other + hand to free yourself from the strangle hold. Then turn around and jab your + attacker with the heel of your hand. + +* STRANGLE HOLD FROM THE FRONT + You are just about to get into your car. You are attacked and your assailant + tries to strangle you with both hands. From the basic position, jab your + assailant in the nose with the heel of your hand, following through with + your hips to help you hit with more strenght. If this does NOT work, use a + finger jab to help you break free. + +* FOREARM STRANGLE HOLD FROM BEHIND + You are sitting down when you are grabbed from behind. Tense your neck + muscles immediately and pull your attacker's hair forwards. If your + attacker's grip becomes too tight, use a finger jab. + +* IF YOU ARE ATTACKED IN THE CAR + The attacker tries to strangle you through the car window. Tense your neck + muscles and finger jab your attacker in the eyes. + +* IF YOU ARE THROWN TO THE GROUND #1 + Your attacker tries to strangle you after having thrown you to the ground. + Jab him in the eyes with your fingers then pull your assailant's hair with + one hand and take hold of his chin with the other. Pull your attacker's head + downwards, twisting it at the same time, using your other hand (neck twist). + Pull your leg up and roll over sideways, freeing yourself from your + attacker. + +* IF YOU ARE THROWN TO THE GROUND #2 + Your assailant has brought you down and is approaching you again. He is + about to kick you. Raise your knee and then kick your opponent on the shin, + using the side kick technique. + + NOTE: If attacked when lying down, make sure your legs and feet are facing + your assailant, as this gives him the least possible opportunity to + grab you. + +* FIST PUNCH FROM BEHIND + You are leaning over the boot of the car. Your assailant grabs hold of your + right shoulder and tries to throw a right-hand punch to your head. Turn + round to face your attacker and block the punch with your left arm, then jab + your assailant's nose with the heel of your hand. + +* FIST PUNCH FROM THE FRONT + You are about to open the door of a telephone box. Without warning someone + tries to punch you. You block the punch and jab your assailant's nose with + the heel of your hand. + +* IF PUNCHED WHEN SITTING + Your attacker approaches you while you are sitting down and tries to punch + you. Turn sideways away from your attacker then jab your attacker in the + groin with the heel of your hand. Your fingers should be pointing towards + the ground. + +* IF GRABBED BY THE LAPEL + Your attacker grabs hold of your lapel with his left hand and tries to punch + you with his right. You take evasive action to the right, blocking the punch + at the same time. Slam your left knee into your attacker's groin and then + jab your attacker's ear with the heel of your hand. + +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += PART IV : DEFENCE AGAINST WEAPON ATTACK = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +How to defend yourself if you are threatened with a weapon is one of the most +difficult chapters in this course. If you have not FULLY mastered the +techniques, your situation is a hazardous one. The best advice is to try to +avoid this type of confrontation in the first place. If this is not possible, +be as determinated as you can and do NOT show any hesitation. + +IF THREATENED WITH A GUN: +------------------------- + +Try to lull your attacker into a sense of security. Show that you are +frightened and distract your assailant by trying to engage him in a +conversation. Any offensive action you may take has to start with a diversion. +One old, but surprisingly effective, ruse is to look over your assailant's +shoulder, for example, and act as if you have seen something important or +surprising. Do NOT make a move until your assailant has fallen in the trick. +The element of surprise is very important, so you must act with the utmost +speed. + +DEMONSTRATION + +Your assailant is holding a gun to your chest. After you have distracted your +attacker, take evasive action sideways, grab the assailant's gun hand and push +it away from you. Then, if the gun should go off, the bullet will not hit you. +Keep hold of the attacker's hand until he has let go of the gun. After taking +evasive action - always keep the assailant's gun hand blocked - jab your +attacker in the eyes with your fingers. Hold the assailant's gun hand with one +hand and grab hold of the gun from the outside with the other. Now wrench the +gun free and pull it away backwards. You must always disarm your opponent in +order to prevent a further attack. + +IF THREATENED WITH A STICK: +--------------------------- + +If you are threatened with a stick, make sure you dodge out of your attacker's +way, then come in as close as possible, leaving him no room to raise the stick +or put any power into a blow. + +DEMONSTRATION + +Your opponent is facing you, armed with a stick: he tries to hit you. From the +basic stance, take one step sideways and reach up to block the blow, thus +deflecting its force. After this evasive action, jab your assailant in the +eyes with your fingers. Now grab the stick and pull it downwards out of your +assailant's hand. + +IF THREATENED WITH A KNIFE: +--------------------------- + +This is a very dangerous situation. Again, try to distract or disable your +attacker, by throwing keys or spitting in his face for example. + +DEMONSTRATION + +Stand in the basic position. Your opponent tries to stab you. You block his +arm and take a step diagonally forward at the same time, then lean forward +and jab your opponent in the eyes with your fingers. Keep hold of your +assailant's arm until you have removed the weapon. + +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += PART V : EVERYDAY ARTICLES AS WEAPONS = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +This chapter shows how everyday articles can become weapons. Umbrellas, keys, +books, newspapers and other objects, which you may be carrying, can be used in +self defence. Any sprays, such as deodorant, hairsprays or perfume can also be +extremely useful, as you can spray this into your attacker's eyes. + +USING A KEY: +------------ + +Your assailant grabs hold of your collar with both hands. With a key in your +hand stab your assailant in the side of the face. Follow this up by jabbing +your assailant's nose with the heel of your hand to free yourself completely. + +USING A ROLLED-UP NEWSPAPER: +---------------------------- + +Your attacker grabs your arm from behind. Turn and face your attacker and jab +him under the nose with the rolled-up newspaper. + +USING A BOOK AGAINST ATTACK FROM THE FRONT: +------------------------------------------- + +Your attacker grabs you fron the front and prepares to punch you. You step +forward and block the punch with your forearm and jab the book under your +assailant's nose. + +USING A BOOK AGAINST ATTACK FROM THE SIDE: +------------------------------------------ + +Your attacker approaches from the side and grabs your shoulder. You turn away +sideways and jab the book under your assailant's nose with both hands. + +USING AN UMBRELLA: +------------------ + +You are strolling along the street. Your attacker grabs you from behind and +tries to force his attentions upon you. You immediately swivel your hips away +and slam your umbrella into your assailant's groin. + +USING A HANDBAG: +---------------- + +You are walking along the park. Your assailant pesters you and tries to stop +you. Without hesitating, you take your handbag from the shoulder and hit your +attacker in the face with it, distracting him for a moment. The you can use a +front kick to kick your assailant in the groin. + +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= += = += PART VI : DISCLAIMER = += = +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= + +That's all folks. I spent 6 hours to type this file but now it's finished, +thanx to God. I hope you'll enjoy my work. But DO NOT forget, I say, DO NOT +forget following main points: + +* THIS COURSE IS DESIGNATED FOR SELF DEFENCE ONLY AND NOT FOR STREET FIGHTING. + ENOUGH SAID. ^^^^ + +* SPREAD IT AROUND AS MUCH AS YOU CAN !!!! + +* THIS COURSE IS GREETWARE, THAT MEANS IF YOU LIKE IT YOU MUST GREET TO THE + WRITER OF THIS FILE (I.E. ME!!!!) + +* YOU CAN CONTACT ME IN THE FOLLOWING MANNER : + - CALL VIA TYMNET OR TELENET FRENCH CHAT CALLED QSD (NUA 0208057040540) + - GO IN MAIL AND LEAVE A MESSAGE TO RENEGADE [RAF] + + - ITALIAN USERS CAN ALSO CONTACT ME JOINING VANESSA OR SAMANTHA CHAT ! + + +