mirror of
https://github.com/opsxcq/mirror-textfiles.com.git
synced 2025-08-30 20:10:02 +02:00
237 lines
13 KiB
Plaintext
237 lines
13 KiB
Plaintext
|
|
______
|
|
_/ \_ ____________________________
|
|
/ __ \/ \
|
|
| (__) Mastering the Masterlock /
|
|
\_ _/\________ ___ __ __ _/
|
|
\______/ \ / \/ \_/ \/
|
|
Written By: \/ The Gypsy
|
|
From: Dead On Arrival
|
|
|
|
|
|
This file will instruct you on how to build a master key for the type of locks
|
|
that are found in many school systems. These locks are locks that are generally
|
|
rented to the students for the school year. It is a combination lock on the
|
|
front, and each has a different combination that is given to the student with
|
|
the lock. On the back of these locks is a small keyhole. This keyhole can be
|
|
easily mastered once you have one. Also on the back of these locks as a number
|
|
that has been imprinted on by Masterlock, Inc. at the factory. The types I have
|
|
encountered and master are #53 and #69, both of which are popular in my school
|
|
area. The first step involved is to get one of these locks. The way best to
|
|
get one is to wait until you see one left unlocked. Then just take it and
|
|
leave. This is the best way, because they just think, "Damn... I left my lock
|
|
unlocked and someone stole it"... If you go around breaking them off, then the
|
|
school is wondering what is going on, even before you begin the master!
|
|
Once you have one, you must next remove the back cover. This can be done in
|
|
one of the following ways:
|
|
|
|
1. Place a screwdriver (flathead) into the place where the keyhole on the back
|
|
is. Not in the actual keyhole where the key is inserted, but on the side,
|
|
between the keyhole peice and the back cover. Then simply jam upward on the
|
|
screwdriver or hit it firmly with a hammer (sledge if available!).
|
|
|
|
2. Use a wheel-grinder to grind off the edge on the back of the lock all the
|
|
way around the lock. Then, simply pull off the back cover with a pair of
|
|
pliers. Note: the metal housing of the lock is very firm, and when using the
|
|
grinder on it, it will become red-hot and begin to glow before it is filed off.
|
|
|
|
3. Bang the lock around on the ground and stomp on it till it breaks open!
|
|
|
|
I used the 2nd method.
|
|
|
|
After the back cover is removed, you then find a thicker second plate. If
|
|
you used method #2 then you can simply use the grinder to grind off the small
|
|
peice of metal in the middle of that plate, which holds it on. (On some
|
|
versions of the lock, there may be other peices of metal from the main housing
|
|
holding on that plate, just grind them all off)... Once ground off, you must
|
|
then only use a screwdriver and pry the second plate off. If you didn't use the
|
|
grinder then this is still possible, but will be a lot harder to remove. If
|
|
when you finally get it open, peices of the lock fly all over, don't worry...
|
|
Unless you were planning to put the lock back together (yeah, right!) then you
|
|
do not need the parts together. The part you DO need (a lot!) is a small silver
|
|
-colored peice that contains the brass key-hole section inside. Just get this
|
|
part... It's all you need. You should also note the version number of the lock
|
|
which is on the back plate (which you've already taken off)... you will need
|
|
this number so you know what type of lock the master key goes to.
|
|
Now... the trickiest and actually the hardest part of this project is getting
|
|
the little brass peice out of its silver lining. The silver part is hard to
|
|
break apart, and hitting it or prying it can cause it to be dropped. The brass
|
|
peice contains pins that will fall out very easily. The best way I have found
|
|
to remove the brass portion without the risk of dropping it or losing the pins
|
|
is to melt off the silver-like portion. The complete peice looks something
|
|
like this:
|
|
___
|
|
/ K \ K represents the keyhole
|
|
| K |
|
|
\_K_/
|
|
| /___ Piece Mentioned
|
|
| \ Below...
|
|
|
|
The side opposite of the portion which sticks out the bottom is the part
|
|
which should be melted. Use a blow-torch to melt the portion away. It will melt
|
|
at a temperature slightly above normal solder with a soldering iron. Once you
|
|
have melted the portion away enough so that you could pull out the brass peice,
|
|
let it cool. After it has cooled, pick up both peices together (do not remove
|
|
the brass from the silver yet!). Turn both peices over (holding the brass in
|
|
the silver still!!). You will then have the brass portion in one hand below the
|
|
silver portion in your other hand... Carefully remove the silver portion,
|
|
making sure no pins fall out of the brass peice. The silver peice can then be
|
|
discarded. Place a peice of clear tape around the brass peice to hold the four
|
|
pins inside.
|
|
|
|
Now comes the key forming process. Go to your local K-Mart or Wal-Mart and
|
|
get a couple of key blanks. If you are then you may pay for the keys if you
|
|
like.) The key that works the best is model CO-10 made by CURTIS. You may or
|
|
may not later need to file a tiny amount off the TOP of that key. Anyways,
|
|
it is the best key I have come across that fits. Now use some form of a file
|
|
(I suggest using the grinding-wheel again) and file off about 2-3mm (Yes,
|
|
milimeters) from the bottom of the key. Now, remove the tape from your brass
|
|
peice (be sure the pins are up, so they do not fall out!!). Insert the key into
|
|
the brass peice key-hole. Push it in until it sticks out the other end about
|
|
0.5mm (or just... "not very far"). Starting at the far end of the key (the
|
|
fourth pin) look and see how much of the pin is sticking out of the brass
|
|
peice. Remember approx. that distance and remove the key. Take your file and
|
|
file down on the key a dip in the place where that pin (4) would line up on
|
|
the key. Do NOT file down too far. Every-so-often re-insert the key to see how
|
|
far the pin is getting closer to even with the brass peice. When the pin sticks
|
|
out none and is also NOT inside the brass peice at all, then move on to the
|
|
next pin doing the same thing. If you file down too far then the key is
|
|
worthless and must be re-done. After all four pins have been completed, they
|
|
should be perfectly even with the brass peice when the key is in place. Be sure
|
|
to re-tape the pins inside the brass peice. Finally your key is complete, try
|
|
it out on another lock (with the same version number on the back-plate)... You
|
|
may need to move the key around a little inside of the key-hole to make it
|
|
work. If it does work then turn the key back and forth inside the key-hole
|
|
about 10-20 times to 'break-in' the key to work better. If it doesn't work then
|
|
try the key in your brass portion again. If they are incorrect then try again.
|
|
Don't worry, with a little practice, you'll be able to file out a key in under
|
|
5 minutes! Well, that's it! My school also had normal master locks that they
|
|
used for other things (Stadium fence, power boxes, etc.) that I also mastered.
|
|
It's done in just about the same way, so you can experiment. Just a warning...
|
|
be sure NO ONE sees you using or just having the keys. Also, be sure not to
|
|
sell them to anyone unless you're sure they're not gonna give them to everybody
|
|
else. I say this because I was suspended from school for 14 days because the
|
|
kid that I worked on the keys with, sold one to another kid. So once people
|
|
found out he was selling them, others wanted one. He then had to tell people
|
|
no (so that not everyone in the fuckin' school would have one!). One of these
|
|
persons decided to be an asshole and narced on us. That, of course, is what
|
|
got me suspended. There also is a way to determine the combination of a lock
|
|
after taking it off and using the master key. This will be explained in the
|
|
next file. That's it for now... Thanx for reading this file intended for
|
|
ENTERTAINMENT purposes ONLY! hehehe...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Opening Master Locks
|
|
====================
|
|
|
|
By Mach Three
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you read the last file, "Opening Master Locks," and tried it out, you
|
|
probably have realized that it doesn't really work. When you turn the dial
|
|
with the lock closed, most of them will NOT stop at some number. Here is a
|
|
technique that does work to some degree, but it's not very powerful because you
|
|
need access to the open lock. Well, here it is:
|
|
|
|
1) You need to get access to the lock when it is open. If you just want to
|
|
impress your friends, this is usually pretty easy to do. Most people will open
|
|
up their locker or whatever, and leave the lock open while they are nearby
|
|
working on something. Then, when they are done, they'll lock the stuff up.
|
|
So when your friend is working, go up to the open lock and pull the shackle
|
|
(the horseshoe part that opens) up to the top. With the lock open and the
|
|
shackle pulled hard to the top, NOW turn the lock all the way c
|
|
lockwise until you can turn it no farther. Add five to the number it is on,
|
|
and you now have the first number.
|
|
|
|
2) Now, before you did step 1, what you should do is read the number on the
|
|
combination lock before turning the dial. 99% of the people will leave their
|
|
combination on the last number when they open it (You don't spin the dial to a
|
|
random number every time you open and close your lock, do you?) So just by
|
|
visually inspecting what the number is, chances are you have gotten the last
|
|
number.
|
|
|
|
3)
|
|
Okay, now that you have the first number and the last number, when your
|
|
friend has closed his lock and is gone, or whatever, you can open it up to get
|
|
the second number. Just try every possible second number, and try to open the
|
|
lock, which will not take too long because you only have 60 numbers to go
|
|
through.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Addendum: Are there really sixty numbers to try? No! Just because there are
|
|
sixty numbers on the dial does not mean you have to go through sixty numbers.
|
|
In reality, you can be off by 1 number. For example, if the combination is
|
|
10-20-30, you could spin to 9-19-31 and still open the lock. This means that
|
|
instead of 60 numbers, in effect there are really only 30 numbers. Cuts the
|
|
lock down pretty small huh?
|
|
|
|
So if you HAD to open the lock, you can use this technique of "fewer numbers"
|
|
to try every possible combination. For each number try 2-4-6-8...and so forth
|
|
until you get back to zero. This can be useful in case you can get only one of
|
|
the numbers (such as the last number, which you can just read off the dial, or
|
|
only the first number). In this case, when you have one number, there are only
|
|
two more to get. This means there are about 900 more combinations for you to
|
|
try....sure, it's a lot of combinations to spin through, but if you are good it
|
|
would take you about one hour to try them all. So on the average, it would
|
|
take a half an hour to open a combination lock, given one of the numbers.
|
|
|
|
Only a half hour...not bad, considering there might be some good stuff inside!
|
|
|
|
One final note is that many locks have a KEYHOLE in the back...I have no idea
|
|
why they do this, because it totally defeats the purpose of the combination
|
|
lock. These keyholes are usually pretty small - and if you are a decent
|
|
lockpicker you can open the lock up by picking it through the keyhole in around
|
|
10 minutes.
|
|
|
|
|
|
HOW TO PICK MASTER LOCKS
|
|
|
|
Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master
|
|
|
|
combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has
|
|
|
|
made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it
|
|
|
|
hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to
|
|
|
|
it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on.
|
|
|
|
1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get
|
|
the combination),
|
|
|
|
pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it
|
|
|
|
turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this
|
|
|
|
number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times,
|
|
|
|
then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st
|
|
|
|
number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it.
|
|
|
|
It will eventually fall into the groove and
|
|
lock. While in the groove pull on
|
|
|
|
it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you
|
|
|
|
got the second number.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers,
|
|
|
|
then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock
|
|
|
|
will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be
|
|
|
|
patient, it takes time.
|