info/mirror-textfiles.com
1
0
Fork 0
mirror of https://github.com/opsxcq/mirror-textfiles.com.git synced 2025-08-10 09:04:07 +02:00
Code Issues Releases Wiki Activity

update

Browse Source
This commit is contained in:
OPSXCQ
2017-11-17 08:35:49 -03:00
parent 333bda8f9a
commit 516ac0afc4
158 changed files with 60124 additions and 0 deletions
Download Patch File Download Diff File Expand all files Collapse all files

488
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/selfignt.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,488 @@
[Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit]
PYRO2.TXT Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives
This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious
stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you
kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your
body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't
treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.
Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read
'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules
that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about
the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly
before starting anything.
Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable,
and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear
understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of
ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided.
Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following:
1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at
most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for
bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale
pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of
water before weighing the next ingredient.
3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the
workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open
containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage
or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and
replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.
4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
another ingredient.
5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should
also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass
also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an
accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the
top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some
mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in
a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform.
In all cases, point the open end of the container away from
yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any
stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
sparks or static.
Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on
a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them
across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.
6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the
material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
contents down.
7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be
stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an
accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
locked away.
8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber
or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture
caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the
friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any
procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.
9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES.
Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure
lenses and frames are not flammable.
10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there.
They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.
11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.
12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.
13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.
14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.
15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot
lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode
dust floating in the air.
16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.
17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
hose, etc.)
18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or
put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have
been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,
please do not use metal in any circumstance.
19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
Some information will be included in each file, but look for
whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.
20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't
forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload
or reuse any dud.
22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
doing and leave until it settles.
23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.
24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,
Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't
drop them, or even handle them roughly.
These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one
example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the
good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got
out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the
green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man
got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor
we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these
chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable
of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take
this stuff lightly.
We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite
dangerous. Please read the following information carefully.
Sodium Azide - NaN
3
This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it
gently.
Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO )
3 2
This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will
absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints
and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in
your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless
with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one
afternoon.
Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO
4 3
Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large
quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this
material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it
decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use
it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off
with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here.
Potassium Nitrate - KNO
3
Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals.
It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is,
when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture
burn.
Potassium Potassium
Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen
2KNO ---> 2KNO + O
3 2 2
Potassium Chlorate - KClO
3
A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only
yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic
mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn
more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be
useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like.
Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium
Chlorate is also poisonous.
Potassium Potassium
Chlorate Chloride Oxygen
2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O
3 2
Aluminum Dust
Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a
solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can
seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any
clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an
open flame.
Zinc Dust
Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still
worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled.
Lampblack
This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other
manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures
than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they
stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you
should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using
this.
Sulfur
A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy
this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these
will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself.
Potassium Permanganate
An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here.
Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less
effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just
the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine.
If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up
with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be
thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!!
Gum Arabic
A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful
for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass.
Sodium Peroxide
A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it
touch your skin.
Glycerine
A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get
burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff.
Iodine Crystals
Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses
poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches
and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and
notice the odor, you should leave the area.
Touch Paper
This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is
ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by
soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated
solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have
dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up
to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a
small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary
paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite
gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else.
Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to
make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the
fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained
from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere.
Self Igniting Mixtures
Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an
asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall
onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then
flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is
oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated.
Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to
catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off
some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE
MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I
know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done.
Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn.
This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of
poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine
crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound
and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into
flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is
very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off
by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately
before you plan to use it.
Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium
peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep
Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your
skin, for example.)
Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these
SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of
water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the
quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc.
Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this
mixture.
Percussion Explosives
This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting
possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing
Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT
more sensitive than the ones shown here.
Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be
ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any
pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one
gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a
loud report.
Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above,
Potassium Chlorate 6
Lampblack 4
Sulfur 1
Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only.
Lead Azide Pb(N )
3 2
Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and
others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in
open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny
dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The
same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In
larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it
off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already
mentioned. It is very easy to make.
Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not
to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about
3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it
to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead
Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while
stirring, until no more Lead Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use
it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you
have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You
need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms.
The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water.
It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this
way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it
in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of
an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the
mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the
shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged
between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed
the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make
the filter paper explosive.
Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a
couple of grams at one time.
Reaction Equations
Lead Sodium Lead Sodium
Nitrate Azide Azide Nitrate
Pb(NO ) + 2NaN ---> Pb(N ) + 2NaNO
3 2 3 3 2 3
Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the
water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and
this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff.
Dump it out.
To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of
touch paper in the following shape
-----------------------------
! !
! !
! ---------------
! !
! ---------------
! !
! !
-----------------------------
Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and
the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet
Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry
thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the
very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will
produce a fairly loud explosion.
A Lead Azide Booby Trap
Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A
couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece
depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the
center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z"
should be about one inch long.
-------------------------------------.
.
.
.
--------------------------------------------------
Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z
Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it
unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely
together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2
tries to show what this will look like.
-------------//////////////////-----------------
Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly
Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The
Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut
out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted
portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two
inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure
3.
-------------------------
! !
----------! !-------------------
! !
-------------------------
Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap
You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the
Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by
heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in
the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be
attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation
that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much
Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting
soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope,
and set it off from a distance.
The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead
Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get
set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so
store these separately and keep them padded well.
Getting The Chemicals
As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab
supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when
mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates,
nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind,
and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply
houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the
things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the
multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs
to cover your tracks. DO it!
[Ripco] Which 1-281 ?=menu,<CR>=abort:

45
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shavingcream.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,45 @@
Shaving Cream Bomb --------EXODUS
-This may not really be what we would consider a bomb, but it is a
helluva great idea to phuck someone over. You will need:
(1)-person you hate who has a car
(1)-container of liquid nitrogen (try a science shop, or Edmund
Scientific, mentioned in several places in this Cookbook)
(6-10)-cans of generic shaving cream
(1)-free afternoon (preferably in FREEZING temperatures outside)
(1-or more)-pairs of pliars, for cutting and peeling
some phriends
Directions:
Find someone who owns a small compact car, and manage to find out
where he keeps it at night (or while he is away!) Be able to open
the car repeatedly.. Place a can in the liquid nitrogen for about 30
sec. Take it out and carefully and QUICKLY peel off the metal
outside container, and you should have a frozen "block" of shaving
cream. (It helps to have more than one container, and more phriends)
Toss it into the car and do the same with all the cans. A dozen or
more "blocks" like this can fill and lightly PRESSURIZE a small
car. When he opens the door (hopefully he doesn't realize the mess
inside due to the foggy windows), he will be covered with lbs of
shaving cream that is a bitch to get out of upholstry.
PS!- Try to get one is his glove compartment!!!!!
Have Phunn.... ------007


32
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shitbomb.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,32 @@
Shit Bomb
----------
Materials:
1)Fresh feces(a.k.a. SHIT)
(looser the better).
2)M-80.
3)Large baggie.
4)Lightbulb.
5)Solar ignitor (optional).
Instructions:
Put the fresh feces in a large baggie. Gently break the covering of a
large wattage lightbulb, but DO NOT disturb the filament inside. More gently
still, attach the fuse of the M80 to the filament and screw the lightbulb
carefully back into the ceiling socket. Finally, move the bag of feces up and
around the light fixture. Make sure the shit does not touch the filament, and
the M80 should should be well into the 'feces'. Tape the bag to the ceiling.
If the filament breaks, or if you prefer, a solar ignitor can be used to replace
the filament. This could take more time though due to the process of attaching
the ignitor to the 2 wires to complete a circuit.
MAKE SURE THE LIGHT IS TURNED OFF BEFORE REPLACING THE BULB!!!
If not...you have about 4 seconds to run your ass off!
When the victim turns on the light switch.....well, let's just say:
"The shit's gonna hit the fan."
(and probably everything else!)

42
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shockbomb.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,42 @@
ubmitted by: FOTBAL12
Instuctions on how to make a Shock Bomb:
Materials:
Get a Package of Granulated Shock. (Chlorine pool treatment) It's only a
couple bucks at your local grocery store.
Sugar
2 Liter Bottle
Water
Instructions:
Get an empty 2 liter bottle (Or you can use almost anysize plastic Bottle)
and make sure that the inside is dry and free of any other residue.
Fill the bottom of the bottle (put in enought just to cover the bottom;
Probably about 1/2 an inch.) Next, put in a little less amount of Sugar,
probably about 2/5 inch. Shake the bottle to mix the two chemicals.
Next, dump in about a cup or so of water, put in enough to make the reaction
happen.
Next, Cap the bottle, shake for about 2 seconds, and throw it. Between 1-4
minutes, it should blow up. Its REALLY loud. They are great to place in
pumpkins!
Note: I know this real big fuck up who tried to make one. He did, but he
didnt wait long enough. It was about to explode, and he picked it up and
started to shake it somemore. Next thing you know, it blew up in his face
and he went to the hospital. He was ok, but everyone at school made fun of
him... Whats even funnier is this: He got busted by the FBI...
Be Patient! Pressure bombs are unpredictable when it comes to time.
Note: 20 oz Coke bottles for some reason tend to react when the shock is
first innitailly dropped in. I recomen the coke 2 liter bottle or a pepsi 1
liter bottle.

60
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shotshel.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,60 @@
////////////////////\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
:::: ::::
:::: "SHOTGUN SHELL BOMBS" ::::
:::: from ::::
:::: The Poor Man's James Bond ::::
:::: by Kurt Saxon ::::
:::: ::::
:::: typed in by --] Man-Tooth [-- ::::
:::: ::::
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\////////////////////
These little goodies are affectionately known as "nut busters." They are
simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with cardboard fins put on.
On the primer end of the shell is glued a small cork with a hole drilled
through it. A roofing nail fits in the hole snugly enough to stay in, but
loose enough to plunge into the primer upon impact.
Since the shell is not confined in the chamber of the gun, it will
naturally not cause the same amount of damage. But if it goes off between a
fellow's legs he can look forward to becoming a soprano.
These bombs are thrown singly or by the handful into the air over milling
crowds. The weight of the shell and stabilization by the fins causes the nut
buster to head straight downward.
It has tremendous effect as its presence is usually a suprise. The threat
of more coming is guaranteed to route any mob.
Not only does it go off on the pavement but it will also explode on
contact with a person's head or shoulder. At night it is impossible to trace
its point of origin.
-----
! \
/> ! \ /- Cork
Fins ! ! v
--------------------!\
! \ ! !-----! ! \ !
! \> !------ ! ! !---! <-- Roofing nail
! ! !-----! ! / !
\ --------------------!/
\ ! ! ^
\-> ! / ^ \
! / ! \
----- ! Shell
!
!
Close fitting 3-1/2 inch Aluminum Tubing Glued on Shell.
SHOTGUN SHELL BOMB
A clever use for a plain shotgun shell is as a muffler bomb. The shell is
simply shoved up a car's exhaust pipe with a length of stiff wire until it
drops into the muffler. After a few minutes on the road the shell explodes,
totalling out the muffler and treating the driver to a sick kind of panic.

74
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/shotshell.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,74 @@
Submitted by: Zero
Dear Camdyman,
I have figured out how to take apart a shotgun shell I will
show you how later in the letter so people who nead it can use it!!
I would like to take back what I have said it the last 2 or 3 letters
about the sale of explosives. I dont support that and now wont take in
anypart of selling thanx candyman.
How to take apart a shotgun shell without loseing a hand or so!!
materials>>
Shotgun shell 12gage or 21gage
A Sheet of paper
and Two Cups!>
Procedure:
-Put the ShootGun shell in the center of the paper.
take the knife and cut through the ShootGun shell about one cenameter
from the top end. It will look like this.
| ____________________
| | : ]
| | : ]
| _____|___________:__]
| | Cut across this{ : }
|
metal
NOW LISSEN UP THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!
If you are useing a 12gage there WILL NOT BE ANY WHITE POUDER IN THE
SECTION YOU JUST CUT!! But if you are using a 21gage there will be
a type of white gunpouder in the section you just cut so cut carefuly!!
You CAN use the pouder for whatever!!
For the 21 just put the pouder away for now in a plastic bag!!
-then take out the round sheets of wadding if you see them.
-Then you take out the iron balls! IF you are using a 12gage
there will be 50 or so small balls!! {ouch} If it's a 21gage
then there will be six big iron ball. [now that's painful!!]
-Next you will want to make another cut right befor the metal peice
then take out the wadding again from the metal part and there will
be a huge batch of small balls of gunpouder!! or a finely grained
batch of gunpouder {VAREYS WITH THE TYPE OF SHELL}then put the
gunpouder in one of the empty cup and if your smart you will know
not to play with the littel round thing sticking out the
back of the shell!!! **SHESH**
Ok with the shit of a shell left you can put it in a plastic bag or
the cup and burry it toss it in a river or come up with something
to do with it just rember if you hit the back end after you are done
IT CAN STILL GO OFF!!
Thanx for lissning I have done this and it is safe BUT I dont sugest
you try this because I am not responible for what mite happen if you
get caught or blow your fuckin hand off!!
so have phunn..
this has been brought to you by
Zero!! [there can be only one!]
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
> -=-Zero-=- <
> http://www.geopages.com/WallStreet/2006/ <
> http://www.geopages.com/TimesSquare/2008/ <
> Jon.Zalk@ix.netcom.com <
> <
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\

79
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/skoolfun.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,79 @@
<RiP>
Copyright (c) 1991
MtK SHx
Pyromaniacal Activities at ShCooL
One simple, but effective trick is to apply the simplest of
plastiques to an outlet and blow it out.
<PrOcEdUrE>
First take two paperclips and bend them straight. Next, | |
you take a pencil with an eraser and insert them like this:
<HaNdY LiTtLe DrAwInG ThInGiE>
Paperclips --* |_|-|_|
Eraser----------* |_
| |
Pencil----------* | |
| |
<MoRe Of DaT HoW-To StUfF>
Hopfully you should be able to figure out my quite awkward
drawing. Anywayz, now you spread your plastique all over the socket
(making sure none acually gets inside the outlets)(this should be done
in a bathroom). And finally, as you probably guessed, you stick your
psychotic-looking "tool" into the socket, so that each paperclip goes
into each outlet. This step should be done with extreme care, making
sure you have not put too much plastique on unless you are planning to
have finger fricasee for supper. As you now should have noticed,
there is a bright flare of light, and a popping sound. This is an
electric explosion, and it ignites the plastique, sending flaming
Bits 'O' Jelly everywhere. This makes for quite a mess, and I'm sure
you will feel most proud of yourself. If at all possible, make sure
to get a look at the custodian's face after going in there!
<PlAsTiQuE MeThOd>
For those amateurs who do not know how to make plastique, here is
a simple method:
<InGrEdIaNtS>
1. 2 parts petrollium jelly (vasoline)
2. 1 part gasoline
Simply mix these ingrediants in a container (not one you have to
eat in). This substance usually has to be ignited electricly, so
don't go lighting it with matches, and then come bitching to me that
it doesn't work.
<OnE Of ThOsE ThInGiEs ThAt MeAn ThAt YoU CaN't BlAmE Or SuE Us>
Metallikat and Shadow Hawk, can not be held responsible for any
damages done to your beautiful school, OR yourself!!! This document is
for informational purposes only, sound familiar? HeHeHe
If you and your Pyro-Buddies happen to get caught during you
humorous activities, Metallikat and Shadow Hawk can not be held
responsible for any Detentions, Suspensions, Expellations, or
Beatings by your teacher, principle, vice principle, or student
advisor.
<P.S.>
If you get caught, then my condolences. A little bit of
advice, plead temporary insanity <Even if it is actually
permanent>...
<20> 3 3
3HADOW 3<>3AWK.../\/\etaLLiKaT
<20> 3 3
Another file from RiP (c)1991

128
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/skreen.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,128 @@
SKREEN.TXT - how to make smokescreens
*****************************************************************************
* *
* The Ninja Warrior *
* Presents: *
* Smoke Screen #1 *
* *
*****************************************************************************
THIS IS THE SECOND OF THE NINJA009 SERIES, THE FIRST BEING THE ISSUE: POISON
#1. I HOPE YOU ENJOYED THE FIRST BULLETIN AND I'M SURE YOU'LL ENJOY THIS ONE
AS WELL...
***WARNING***
AS I KNOW, IN CALIFORNIA, THERE IS A LAW THAT PROHIBITS SMOKE SCREENS. IF
YOU GET CAUGHT SCREENING UP THE STREETS, DON'T MENTION YOUR MENTOR TO THE
COPS. AND IF YOU WANT TO BE A NINJA, OR JUST A RAD DUDE, DON'T FUCK AROUND
IN THE WRONG PLACES, AT THE WRONG TIME...
BACKGROUND ON SMOKE SCREENS:
----------------------------
SMOKE SCREENS WERE USED BY THE NINJA FOR A WAY OF ESCAPING IN TIGHT SITUA-
TIONS. THE NINJA HAD TWO TYPES OF SMOKE SCREENS. ONE THAT REQUIRES A FLINT
AND STONE, AND ONE THAT DOESN'T REQUIRE ANY HEAT. I WILL DESCRIBE THE ONE
WHICH REQUIRES A LITTLE HEAT. ALL I KNOW IS THAT A HOT DAY IN L.A. ON TOP
OF A BLACK CAR CAN IGNITE THIS SMOKE BOMB. THE NINJA USED TO CALL THE SMOKE
SCREENS, 'REI SEI NO KIRI', OR SPIRITUAL FOG, OR 'NAGE DAMA' OR HURLED SMOKE.
I WILL BE DISCUSSING THE 'REI SEI NO KIRI' OR SPIRITUAL FOG. PEOPLE HAVE
THOUGHT OF THE NINJA AS MAGICAL BEINGS, MOST AMERICANS THINK THEY ARE MYTH-
ICAL, BECAUSE THEY HAVE HEARD STORIES FROM FICTIONAL BOOKS. THE NINJA DON'T
JUST DISAPPEAR INTO THIN AIR OR WALK THRU WALLS, THEY SPRAY SOME SMOKES TO
HIDE SOME WHERE TEMPORARILY UNTIL THE OPPONENT IS PUZZLED AND LEAVES. I WILL
DISCUSS SOME OF THESE TECHNIQUES IN THIS ISSUE.
REI SEI NO KIRI
---------------
THE OLD WAY OF PREPARING THE SMOKE SCREEN IS NOT POSSIBLE IN THE PRESENT DAY
THEREFORE, I CANNOT REALLY TELL YOU HOW TO MAKE IT THE OLD WAY. THE INGRE-
DIENTS OF THE OLD RECIPE IS IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND. BUT I DO HAVE THE ANCIENT
RECIPE AND THE INGREDIENTS. SINCE I KNOW THAT NONE OF YOU, I REPEAT, NONE
OF YOU CAN GET THE INGREDIENTS TO THE OLD RECIPE, WHICH INCLUDES, AGED AND
FINE POWDERED WOLF DUNG (WHICH MAY BE OBTAINABLE BY SHIPPING VIA CHINA), I
KNOW AS A FACT, THAT IN JAPAN, THEY DO NOT SELL THOSE THINGS, ALSO THE BONES
THE SEA EEL IN POWDERED FORM (WHICH CAN BE OBTAINED IN CHINA, SINCE IT IS
USED FOR MEDICINE DOWN THERE), AND MANY OTHER ODD INGREDIENTS WHICH IS TOTAL-
LY INOBTAINABLE.
-----------
INGREDIENTS
-----------
THIS IS THE INGREDIENTS OF THE NEW RECIPE WHICH DOESN'T WORK AS GOOD AS THE
OLD RECIPE, BUT WORKS GOOD ENOUGH TO COVER YOURSELF IN THE SMOKE WITH ENOUGH
TIME TO DISAPPEAR INTO THIN AIR.
- POWDERED SUGAR <- EASILY OBTAINED AT THE LOCAL GROCER'S
- SODIUM NITRATE (SALT PETER) <- CAN BE OBTAINED AT THE DRUG STORE
- SULFER (OPTIONAL) <- IF POSSIBLE, BUT NOT NECESSARY
- CHARCOAL OR FINE POWDERED CARBON (OPTIONAL) <-CRUSHED CHARCOAL WILL DO
- A FIRE CRACKER WICK OR OTHER TYPES OF HEATING DEVICE
--------------
HOW TO MAKE IT
IT IS QUITE SIMPLE TO MAKE THE SMOKE SCREEN IF YOU DON'T INCLUDE THE OPTIONAL
INGREDIENTS. JUST MIX THE SUGAR WITH THE SALT PETER, IN THE RATIO OF 3 PARTS
SUGAR, 2 PARTS SALT PETER. YOU HAVE TO MIX IT GOOD SO THAT THE SALT PETER IS
DISTRIBUTED WELL WITH THE SUGAR. THEN YOU CAN STORE IT IN SOME MEDICINE
BOTTLE OR A BEER CAN. IF YOU LIGHT THE CONTENTS IN THE MEDICINE BOTTLE IN A
ROOM, IT WILL FILL A ROOM OF ABOUT 12 FEET BY 12 FEET ENOUGH SO THAT YOU CAN
ESCAPE ANY SITUATION. IF YOU PUT IT IN A BEER CAN, (NOTE: THE BEER CAN DOES
NOT HAVE TO BE DRIED OUT FOR THIS TO WORK.) IT CAN FILL A STREET WITH SMOKE
AND LAST FOR ABOUT 3 MINUTES, WHICH IS PLENTY OF TIME TO GET YOUR ASS OUT OF
ANY SITUATION. WELL I THINK ENOUGH IS SAID ABOUT THE EASY SMOKES.
**OPTIONAL**
IF THE EASY WAY CREATES ALL THAT SMOKE, THEN WHY IS THERE AN OPTIONAL ONE,
RIGHT? WELL I INCLUDED THE OPTIONAL ONE SINCE THE OPTIONAL ONE CAN DAMAGE
THE ENTRAPPED VICTIM IN THE SMOKE PRETTY BAD. I MEAN BAD ENOUGH SO THAT THE
VICTIM CAN PASS OUT AND DIE, IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH OF IT GOING IN A HOUSE OR
SOMETHING. I'D ADVISE YOU TO STICK WITH THE EASY ONE, BUT I KNOW SOMEONE
OUT THERE IS CURIOUS ENOUGH TO BE A KILLER SO I WILL INCLUDE THE OPTIONAL
VERSION.
YOU MUST FIRST CRUSH THE CHARCOAL. YOU NEED A LUMP OF CHARCOAL PER OUNCE OF
SUGAR USED. I WILL TEACH YOU HOW TO MAKE THE 3 OUNCE OF SUGAR VERSION OF THE
SMOKE SCREEN. YOU CAN ALTER THE MEASUREMENTS FOR LARGER QUANTITIES.
THE CHARCOAL IS BETTER THAN POWDERED CARBON, ESP. IF THE CHARCOAL IS MATCH-
LIGHT. (NOTE: IF YOU HAVE PLAIN CHARCOAL, YOU SHOULD USE LIGHTER FLUID WITH
THE CHARCOAL.) MAKE SURE THAT THE CHARCOAL IS VERY FINE. NEXT MAKE YOUR
3:2 MIXTURE OF THE SUGAR AND THE SODIUM NITRATE. 3 OZ. OF SUGAR TO 2 OZ. OF
SODIUM NITRATE. THEN, MIX THE 3 LUMPS OF CRUSHED CHARCOAL INTO THE 3:2 MIX-
TURE, AND MIX VERY WELL. MIX THE POWDERS UNTIL THE MIXTURE IS A DARK GREY
NEAR GREY, MIXTURE. THEN GET AN OUNCE OF SULFER AND MIX THE CONTENTS CARE-
FULLY. DON'T SPILL THE SULFER OR THE MIXTURE ON THE FLOOR OR CARPETING SINCE
IT CAN DAMAGE IT. WHEN YOU MIX IT WELL ENOUGH, YOU HAVE FINISHED!!! IF YOU
DO LIGHT THIS SCREEN, BEWARE...YOU ARE RISKING YOUR OWN LIFE. GET YOUR ASS
OUT OF THERE BUT TRY NOT TO BE SEEN. TIME THE WICK IF POSSIBLE. IF YOU HAVE
ENOUGH OF IT GOING IN A ROOM WITH YOUR FAVORITE ENEMY IN IT, IT CAN KILL THE
DUDE WITH 5 MINUTES OF THIS SHIT. THE THING IS IT'S PRETTY EASY TO GET HIS
ASS OUT OF THERE, TOO. SO JUST KNOCK HIM OUT COLD BEFORE YOU IGNITE THE
SMOKES. IF HE DOES AWAKE, AFTER THE SMOKE DISSIPATES, HE WILL MOST LIKELY
DIE OF SOME LUNG PROBLEMS. ANYWAYS, IF YOU WANT HIM TO DIE QUICK WHO GIVES A
DAMN. BUT, MAKE SURE IF YOU DO THIS DON'T GET YOUR ASS BUSTED.
--------------
WAYS OF ESCAPE
--------------
I WON'T GO INTO DETAIL ON THIS ISSUE BUT HERE IS ONE WAY OF EVASION. FIRST
MOST LIKELY WHEN A PERSON GETS IN SOME HEAT NOWADAYS, IT'S GONNA BE ON THE
STREETS. SO...LOOK FOR A PLACE WHERE YOU KNOW YOU CAN HIDE OUT FOR A WHILE.
LIGHT ONE NEARBY AND WHEN THE SMOKE GOES UP, LOOK DIRECTLY AT YOUR OPPONENT
UNTIL HE IS VERY DIM AND FAINT, THEN MAKE YOUR MOVE. GO TO YOUR HIDING
PLACE. AND STAY THERE FOR A WHILE. WHEN YOU THINK THE COAST IS CLEAR, JAM
WHEREVER YOU WANT TO KEEP YOUR ASS SAFE.
WELL...I HAVE SAID ENOUGH ABOUT THIS TOPIC. WELL...HAVE FUN!!!
DATED: 01-16-1985
PLEASE DO NOT ALTER THIS PHILE IN ANY WAY. I WANT THIS PHILE TO BE COMPLETE
AND STAY COMPLETE AS IT IS OFFERED TO MANY CURIOUS MINDS. YOU MAY SHARE THIS
PHILE WITH ANYONE AND EVERYONE. BUT THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THE SECRETS TO
YOUR SELF.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

25
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/slingshot.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,25 @@
Fun Shit To Do With A Wrist-rocket (sling-shot)
well, scince these things have a bunch of power u can take out those damn birds that wake u up at 6 in the morning when u are trying to sleep
u can shoot out windows from a reasonable distance if u have good aim..if not go in closer but run fast
you can shoot shotgun primers taped to marbles into crowed areas
that damn dog that awaly barks at me when im walking by really piss me off next time rover barks at me im shooting him in the ass!
if u shoot paint balls u can really create som art on buildings or glass
light an m-60 and shoot it into someones open garage
shoot the heads of .22 bullets at shit they work real good
dont u hate those guys that always yell at you when they go by in their cars if you shoot their window out they wont yell ne more (they might wanna kick your ass though!!)
im sick of typing now so look for more files by me cow_tipper
mail me if u liked this crazyskater@hotmail.com
------cow_tipper
p.s. my fav ammo is marbles

22
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/slpowder.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,22 @@
How To Make Smokeless Powder
----------------------------
[1> Boil cotton for 30 minutes, in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide.
[2> Wash the cotton in hot water and allow it to dry.
[3> Mix slowly and carefully at 25 degrees Centigrade, 250 cc. of concentrated
sulfuric acid, 150 cc. of concentrated nitric acid, and 20 cc. of
water. They must be kept at 25 degrees C.
[4> Next place the dried cotton in the acid solution, and stir well with
either a glass or porcelain rod (do not use metal). This should be
done for 35 minutes.
[5> After nitration, the acids are washed away, and the cotton is washed in
boiling water five times, each time for 25 minutes. The cotton is
given several tests with litmus paper. If the litmus test proves
that there is still some acid present, a 2% solution of sodium
bicarbonate should neutralize whatever is left. This is important,
since any remaining acid acts as an impurity to make the explosive
more unstable.
************************************************

84
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smkgen.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,84 @@
..............................................................................
......... ..........
......... Formulas for different-colored smoke screens ..........
......... by: Sour Apple ..........
......... Typed for The Kingdom of the Dead BBS ..........
......... (509) 927-9120 ..........
...............................................................................
An interestiong aspect of explosives is the extra ingredients which can be
added to give the explosion characteristics it would not normally have. A smoke
bomb is like this, in sense that it is not only useful to create confusion and
chaos, but also for smoking persons out of an enclosed area, as well as
signaling.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Formulas for the preparation of a black smoke screen:
1) magnesium powder 19 2) magnesium powder 20
hexachloroethane 60 hexachloroethane 60
naphthalene 21 naphthalene 20
3) hexachloroethane 55.8 4) black powder FFF 50
alpha naphol 14 potassium nitrate 10
athracene 4.6 coal tar 20
aluminum powder 9.3 powdered charcoal 15
smokless powder 14 paraffin 5
naphthalene 2.3
_______________________________________________________________________________
Formulas for the preparation of a white smoke screen:
1) potassium chlorate 44 2) zinc dust 28
sulfur flour 15 zinc oxide 22
zinc dust 40 hexachloroethane 50
sodium bicarbonate 1
3) zinc dust 66.67
hexachloroethane 33.33
_______________________________________________________________________________
Formulas for the preparation of a yellow smoke screen:
1) potassium chlorate 25 2) potassium chlorate 30
paranitraniline 50 naphthalene azodimethyl
lactrose 25 aniline 50
powdered sugar 20
3) potassium chlorate 21.4
naphthalene 50
azodimethyl aniline 2.7
auramine 38
sodium bicarbonate 28.5
_______________________________________________________________________________
Formulas for the preparation of a green smoke screen:
1) potassium nitrate 20
red arsenic 20
sulfer flour 20
antimony sulfide 20
black powder FFF 20
_______________________________________________________________________________
Formulas for the preparation of a red smoke screen:
1) potassium chlorate 20 2) potassium chlorate 26
lactose 20 diethylaminorosindone
paranitraniline red 60 48
powdered sugar 26
3) potassium chlorate 27.4 4) potassium
methylaminoanthra- perchlorate 25
quinone 42.5 antimony sulfide 20
sodium bicarbonate 19.5 rhodamine red 50
sulfur flour 10.6 dextrin 5
_______________________________________________________________________________
I will NOT be held responsible by the actions of the people that try this stuff
and I present this as information only.
______________________________ _______________________________
-______________________________ April 27, 1988 _______________________________-
[Mother Earth BBS]

118
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smobomb.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,118 @@
Smoke Bombs
-----------
Materials:
----------
Sugar
Potassium Nitrate (Salt Peter)
Pan (soup, etc..)
Matches (paper)
Aluminum caj<61>
Scissors
Procedure:
----------
1) Mix 4 parts sugar with 6 parts
Potassium nitrate.
LY (in pan) until melted,
stirring ALL OF THE TIME!
3) Cut top off of can with scissors.
4) Pour mixture into can (minus top)
5) Imbed 5-10 matches into mixture
before it drys...
6) After it dries, light matches/SMoke
bomb.
1 Lb. nicely smokes up a city block.
Enjoy!
"Draino Bomb"
--------------
A Draino Bomb is most commonly used for the complete destruction of cars.
It is very easy to make, and is totally kitchen improvised.
Components:
[1] Plastic film container (nothing else will work)
[2] Comet
[3] Draino crystals
Procedure:
Fill the film container a little more than 3/4 of the way with Comet.
Fill the rest with the Draino crystals.
Put the lid on the container.
Use:
Take lid from gas tank of victim's car.
Put film container (pre-prepared) in
tank RUN LIKE HELL!!!!!
You will have about 10 minutes to get away after dropping the container into
the gas tank before the entire car blows up just like on TV.
This mixture is easy to make, and very safe to store, but it is extremely
effective. I have seen it tested many times, and have never been let down.
U S E W I T H C A U T I O N !
It is a crime to blow up cars!
( In case you didn't know....)
Enjoy!!
"Gunpowder"
-----------
How to make gunpowder
---------------------
Gunpowder is:
75% (or 15 parts) Potassium Nitrate(salt peter)
15% (3 parts) Sulfer (can be taken from
the ends of matches...Chop into a FINE
powder)
(2 parts) CharcoaR (Yes, the shit you put in the Bar-B-Q...also chop finely)
and mix it.......voila! (Easy, huh?)
"Impact Explosives!"
--------------------
Impact Explosives are VERY dangerous, so use with caution!
Petroleum jelly (Vaseline, etc..) and Potassium chlorate
mixed in a 50-50 ratio produces an impact explosive that is safe when wet,
but after it dries is HIGHLY shock-sensitive.
---------------------------------------
Mix 3 grams Potassium Iodide and 5 grams liquid Iodine in 50 ml of water,
d(Ammonia water 10%). This mixture, after it dries, is known as Nitrogen
Triiodide, and is so sensitive (when dry) it has occasionally been set off
by a loud shout in the vicinity. Keep in liquid form until ready to use,
then "paint" it over the area or item you want to trap, and when it is
touched.......BOOM! A fun use for this is to "paint" it on driveways... When a
car comes up.... Or on the driveway on Halloween night... or on car tires..

39
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokbomb Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,39 @@
************************************
* S-M-O-K-E B-O-M-B-S *
* For the *
* Lunatic Phringe BBS *
* (312)-965-3677 300/1200 *
************************************
(1) MATERIALS
[1] 6 Table Spoons of Potassium Nitrate
[2] 5 Table Spoons of Sugar
[3] Something to melt them together
[4] Something to pore the shit into
[5] about 10 ohio Blue tip match heads
(2) THE MIXTURE
[1] Measure 6 parts Potassium Nitrate and
5 parts Sugar and put them in the can
that you are going to heat them in and
blend them together.
[2] Put the can over the stove and heat the
mixture together (make sure that you dont
ignight the stuff in the can- to prevent
this form happening make sure you stur and
have it under a low flame)
[3] When you notice that the two solids have become
a liquid then take the can off of the stove
and pour the shit into the thing you want it in
and imbed the 10 blue tip matches into the shit
( the batches should be the kind tht you can
scratch on anything and it will light )
[4] one pound of this shit will engolph a hole chicago
block as long as there is no wind

377
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke-mi.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,377 @@
From: hmg@alkymi.unit.no (Hilde Margrethe Grande)
This is an attempt to answer a question that seems to be popping up ever
so often on this group, namely how to make smoke.
I have been reading this group for a while, and collected earlier answers to
that question. I have only collected reciepes that has not been pointed out as
wrong or dangerous by others on the net. Still, I have not had time to test
any of these reciepes by myself, so I can not vouch for their safety. My
suggestion to those of you that want to use these reciepes is to wait for a
while and see if anyone more knowledgeable out there has any corrections,
and then try small batches in the beginning. I would be very grateful if those
of you who try the reciepes could email me comments about the results.
Be careful!
Hilde (hmg@alkymi.unit.no)
How to make smoke and smokebombs:
Stage use:
For "Stage" use, you almost certainly want to stay far away from pyrotechnic
devices, in favor of "smoke machines" (which can be rented), dry-ice and hot
water (fog creator).
Smokebombs:
****************************
There is a very easy to make, simple, safe compound that you can make to
produce a dense light gray smoke. Only two chemicals are required to make
this compound, Potassium Nitrate (Salt Peter) and everyday refined sugar.
For the optimal yield slowly heatand mix together 5 parts Potassium Nitrate
with 3 parts sugar (parts are by mass) until a yellow liquid forms
(continually stir the mixture through the entire heating process) pour the
liquid into whatever container you are going to be using (aluminum foil
works well) and place a blasting fuse in athe liquid as it dries.
I have had alot of success with this compound, and it is very easy and quick
to make. the only major problem that you can have while making it is if you
heat it too much and it ignites in your lab (kitchen).
hope this helps,
brett
************************
A way to make a really potent smoke maker is to GENTLY melt a
60%/40% KNO3/Sugar mixture, and pour the resulting fluid into a suitable
container (soup can works well). Insert a fuse, and let the fluid s
solidify. Watch out for the column of flame that shoots out!!!
I'd be interested to know what kinds of gasses are being produced. I
imagine CO, CO2, H2O, and maybe NO, NO2, but I'm not skilled enought
to know for sure. :-)
I can't imagine anything that burns being much safer than this...
however, you should ALWAYS be careful with anything that burns (god
knows enough people are killed by matches, cooking oil, smoking, etc).
I don't know how suitable this will be for rockets. It tends to
produce a lot of crap (incompletely burned sugar, melted KNO3, etc)
which might clog up a nozzle. Perhaps if the proportions were just
right you might have some luck.
As you might suspect, it burns much faster when ignited in a liquid
state. Eight or ten years ago I was melting about two pounds of this
stuff in my fathers woodworking shop in a tin can over an open
flame... The setup was on a workbench at about chest level and I was
stirring the stuff quickly to keep it from over-heating on the bottom.
Luckily, back then my reflexes (if not my judgement) were good. I saw
a tiny flash of light on the edge of the can, I jumped back, and the
can erupted like a volcano! An orange and black column of smoke and
flame shot out of the can and burning particles of the mixture sprayed
all over the shop. My parents were away for the afternoon, and I
spent the next two or three hours cleaning up. The eruption charred
the rafters and some wood stored overhead (I planed the rafters and
hid the wood). The burning particles left burned spots on everything
they landed on. I guess I cleaned up well enough, since they never
said anything. And luckily the neighbors didn't call the fire
department when clouds of white smoke were billowing out of the
windows of the shop.
Actually, with a little common sense this stuff is extremely safe... just
make it in reasonable sized batches (say, one cup or less at a time), use it
un-melted, or melt it outside on a hot plate, don't lean over the
top of the container as you are heating it, wear eye/face
protection... etc. The ingredients are non-toxic (but strongly
diuretic I believe).
Greg Hamlin
hamlin@ral.rpi.edu
************************************************
A completely other way to make smoke is the "Berger mixture", which smokes
by emitting large amounts of Zinc chloride to the air. If the air has
significant moisture, as f.i. on rainy days, it works best.
The mix is made from Zinc dust, wood meal or a comparable filling stuff,
and a chlorine donator, f.i. tetrachlormethan or copper chloride.
Tetra, easily available some years ago, may be hard to get today because
it's now known to be very toxic.
The classic smoke/fog device was made by mixing zinc dust with some
amount of wood meal and adding tetra until it is wet. Then, fill the stuff
into a pot/tube of cardboard or similar, and ignite it with a pyrotechnical
setup (fuse and powder, or sparkler). It's sometimes hard to ignite, but
works great. Once upon a time we set the whole floor of our school into
dense fog with only a mortar of Berger.
**********************************************
My standard smoke (which is actually an U.S. military smoke) consists of:
45 parts zinc oxide (available as a pigment)
45 parts hexachloroethane
10 parts aluminium (any grade)
This mixture is quite difficult to ignite. I recommend using a sparkler
as a fuse.
Hexachloroethane (which is not exactly an essential vitamin, and which
may be hard to find) can be replaced with 72 parts PVC. This, however,
makes the mixture yet harder to ignite.
The zinc oxide can be replaced with titanium dioxide (2 parts ZnO
replaced by 1 part TiO2). The titanium dioxide is also available as
a pigment (and very likely originates from Finland! - so use it ;-).
In theory, this smoke could be colored yellowish brown by adding
iron oxide (any of them) and preferably some other oxidizer
(KClO4 should do the job just fine) to burn the carbon from the smoke.
I once tried this, but the results were not very promising. With
enough imagination and good will, the smoke _was_ yellowish, though.
These smokes are slightly irritating and not suitable for indoor use.
Karri
*******************************************
As far as smokebombs are concerned, I have used this recipie several times, and
have gotten mixed results. It originally came from PMJB2.
By weights:
75% Ammonium Nitrate
10% Sulfur
15% Charcoal
The AN must be a fairly fine powder, which is tough to get because it is
hydroscopic. Everything is mixed together and then packed into a used rocket
engine. PMJB2 suggested that you put a few paper match heads at the nozzle of
the rocket, insert a fuse, and then load the mixture a little at a time.
After each layer, pack it down with the eraser on a pencil. Doing it like this
helps to give you a more uniform density, and gives you better control on the
density. After it is packed in, seal the open end up with a few layers of
newspaper, then a melted wax plug. The reaction is sped up a bit if you
add around 5% black powder to the mixture. (I didn't want to suggest using
match heads in a rocket engine...but that is the way the book says to do it.
You only need about 5 heads at most. You can use other containers other than
rocket engines, but I have a few emptys at my disposal. NO C02 cannisters
PLEASE!!!! :-) ) I have done a little bit of experimenting with melting the
AN/Sulfur mixture then adding the charcoal/Black powder to it. I melted the
mixture into the bottom of a pop (I'm from Pittsburgh, soda for the rest of
"yunz" :-) ) can, added the charcoal, let it cool to solid disk and then ground
it finely. Then I would add the black powder, right before loading it. I
haven't tried making it into one pellet yet. So far the main problem I've had
was ignition. Oh, and a C or D sized engine can burn up to 10 minutes,
depending on your composition. I used the AN that you can get out of
Instant Ice Packs, very finely ground charcoal briquets, and sulfur from
a chem kit.
Also the 5% black powder is substituted in for about 5% of the
AN.
Schrec.
PS. I'll mention it again, this stuff is by weight.
**************************************
Ok, seeing all the posts about making smoke bombs, I thought I would
throw in my version of the smoke bomb.
If you are familiar with the group of Japanese executioners from 400 years
ago, formerly called Ninja, then you are aware of some of their diversion
tactics. One such tactic was to make a throwing motion toward the ground
and a flash of fire and a bellow of smoke would rise from the ground and
when the smoke cleared the Ninja would have vanished.
This will help explain what was used in this simple little device. This
secret is revealed for your reading enjoyment and had been tested by
myself under controlled conditions.
NINJA SECRET
Items Needed:
1 - 3/4" chrome steel ball
1 - box of toy roll caps
1 - envelope of SHEET flash paper
1 - bottle of white or silver flash powder
Take the ball and scratch up its surface with sandpaper. This gives the
ball a better gripping surface when wrapping the caps. Next, unroll a
roll of caps all around the ball making several turns so the ball is
covered completely. Roll the caps tightly around the ball with the
cap-heads facing outward. Use about 1/2 of a roll and tape the end with a
small piece of scotch tape. The caps are a small form of contact
explosive and this is what causes the ignition on sudden impact. Next,
roll the ball up in the center of a 4" X 4" sheet of flash paper forming a
tube. Tape the center with a small piece of tape. Now take this tube
assembly and add a 1/2 teaspoonful of white flash powder into each end of
the tube. Do each end separately, folding and taping ends securely or
simply twisting the ends closed. The user must be very careful when
working with the finished product as it could explode in his/her hands if
they press too hard. Use extreme care after the powder is added.
The principle of this entire effect is very simple. The weight of the
steel ball causes the bottom cap to explode when dropped and, in turn, the
explosion causes the flash paper to ignite thus lighting the flash powder.
This chain reaction happens very quickly and it should be noted that
certain factors are very important in order to obtain a finished product
that is 100% surefire.
These factors are:
1) Size and weight of the ball
2) Too much flash powder can cause a cushion effect
3) Too many caps can also cause a cushion effect
4) Not enough caps can cause a misfire
The finished ball should be tested outdoors until you perfect the item.
Do this on a hard flat surface. The ball should be thrown in a downward
motion landing about 4 feet away from you.
Any other questions, feel free to leave a post here, or E-Mail me at:
witninja@crl.com
Lates.....
--------------------
From: sheye@daimi.aau.dk (Simeon Falk Sheye)
Date: 7 Jan 94 16:28:21 GMT
A couple of weeks ago, there was one or two articles on the
subject of smokebombs.
The idea was to use sugar, and some oxidizing agent to produce alot of
smoke (mostly vaporized water!).
I've done this myself a couple of years ago (using sodiumchlorate (NaClO3)
and sugar) with a fairly good result.
But what worked *alot* better was to add Ammoniumchloride (NH4Cl) to
the previous compound. The idea is that NH4Cl sublimates due to the high
temperature, and when cooled in air, re-crystalizes into very fine
particles, like a dust cloud.
In EC, NH4Cl is classified as slihgtly toxic, but still it's used in
candy here in Denmark (Tastes good actually), so i don't think the smoke
is very harmfull.
To make a smokebomb yourself, you need to get a heatsource (gunpowder
works fine, but i believe almost anything from thermite to dynamite can
do. Then mix as much NH4Cl into the heat source as possible, so that
it still is able to burn. (for 100g NaClO3/sugar i used 40g NH4Cl).
A version i've seen in school is to pour knoc. HCl i one bowl, and konc.
NH4OH in another bowl nearby. The fumes combine in air to solid NH4Cl.
This isn't very impressive thoug (boiling the two solutions works *alot*
better), but the unreacted fumes of HCl and NH4OH are rather unpleasant.
Cautions: NaClO3 is a powerful oxidzer, but unfortunatly, shock-sesitive
when mixed with any sort of fuel (including sugar).
Therefore i recommend *not* to use it if you are unfammiliar
with it.
NH4Cl is listed as slightly toxic, and although i myself haven't
sufferd any harm from inhaling the smoke, i cannot guarantee
that you won't do so. (Check with your chemistry teacher or
someone else who know about the substance).
As to the Ari Jarmala's article on Hydrogen bombs, what i user to do when i
was a kid; was to fill a 10-25l plastic container (those used for gasoline,
oil etc. just can't remeber the english name) with 2 parts H2 and one part O2.
I got the hydrogen from aluminium flakes and HCl, bubbeling i trough water to
reduce acid fumes. (This gets *hot*). And the oxygen was supplied from 30%
H2O2 and dirt (MnO2 from the inside of a battery actually, but ordinary dirt
works fine too). This also gets *hot*.
A 10L container can be filled in 5 to 10 minutes.
To fill the container, i first filled it with water, then turned it upside
down in a big tank also full of water. then i lead Hydrogen/Oxygen in trough
a rubber pipe. This approach makes easy to get the correct mix of H2 and O2, if
you fill it with one at a time.
|------------|
Surface inside | ----- H2 + O2
| container __|_________*__| |== <- H2 / O2 |
| | * | || |
| Water| | * | || |
| | | * | || |
|______|_______| * * |____________||_____________|
| | | * *| || |
| |--------__ *| || |
| |_______| |*| || |
| *==============| |
---------------------------------------------------------
To set the thing of, i used to drill a hole in the screwcap, where i fitted
a set of wires connecting at thin iron-wire (from those steelsponges that are
used to clean pots and pans in the kitchen) like this:
----
| -----
| / |
======#=== | Thin iron
/| \ |
/ | -----
/ ----
Hole tihgtend with chewing gum ore whatever is at hand.
The bomb could be set of through 20 m of ordinary 220V wire (110V in the US?),
with a 9V battery.
The report is compareble to a pipebomb containing ~100g NaClO3/Sugar (a small
handgrenade!), but is alot safer, as the explosion is located a large spot,
thus reducing the effect at a single point.
This sort of thing isn't capabel of tearing of your fingers/hands/arms/head, as
the above mentioned pipebomb is, and it doesn't produce shrapnel flying at
high speeds, but i can still cause severe burns, and it is sensibel to static
electricity.
Preferably do these things out in the open, as it is hard to control whereto
the excess hydrogen flow. Just so that you don't blow up the bathroom.....
No need to mention: The container is *not* reusable.
----- Simeon Falk Sheye -----
------------------
From: carl@kbss.bt.co.uk (Carl Reid)
Date: 13 Jan 94 08:52:34 GMT
Heres my alternative to the Potassium Nitrate/Sugar smoke mix, that is safe to mix
indoors:
Buy some parafin wax from a local hobby shop. Get a glass heatproof bowl and stand it
in a pan of boiling water. Add enough wax until you have approx 2cm of molten wax in
the bottom of the glass bowl. Now add Sugar and Potassium Nitrate (or Sodium Nitrate)
in the ratio 50:50 by mass, a table spoonful at a time. Stir well. Keep adding this mix
until all the wax is absorbed, keep stiriing and then leave for a few mins. You should
notice a thin layer of molten wax on top of the mix (if not add more mix). Now remove
pan from heat source and either a) pour mix into containers (toilet roll tubes) and add
fuse OR b) pour onto a warm tray and spread into a thin layer. Leave to cool.
You should now have a hard crystalline substance that can be ground OR re melted into
whatever shape you want. You can use Sodium Nitrate as the wax over comes its
hydroscopic tendancies.
This mix burns very slowly and very hot, and produces 2 - 3 X more smoke than the
normal Potass/Sugar mix!!!
Have fun!!
_________________________________________
|The views expressed here are not those of|
|British Telecommunications PLC. They are |
|just mine, and I'm just plain insane.... |
|_________________________________________|

156
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke-~4.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,156 @@
******** Colored fire mixtures ********
The following was copied (without permission) from an old book published
in 1964 - Magic With Chemistry, by Edward L. Palder. It is from a sub-chapter
entitled "colored fires".
The following is provided for informational purposes only. Some of these
mixtures may NOT be safe or stable. Many contain chlorates, and even
mixtures of chlorates and sulfur. Perhaps the adventurous could start
with these formulas, and possibly alter them by replacing chlorates with
perchlorates, etc. Some mixtures have mercury compounds, which should NOT
be used where people could inhale the smoke!!
The book warns that you should never store any of these mixtures for later
use - they should be prepared at the time of use only!
You've been warned, so here they are....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
All mixtures are parts by weight.
WHITE: ************************************************************
------------------
KNO3..6
Sb2S3..1
S..1
-----------------
KNO3..24
S..7
charcoal.1
----------------
K2S..35
S..11
charcoal.1
----------------
YELLOW: ************************************************************
----------------
KNO3..4
S..1
charcoal.2
NaCl..3
----------------
KClO3..5
Na Oxalate.2
KNO3..1
charcoal.2
S..1
-----------------
KClO3..9
Na oxalate.3
S..3
shellac powder.1.5
-----------------
S..2
Na2CO3..3
KClO3..8
----------------
RED: ************************************************************
----------------
S..1
charcoal.1
Sr(NO3)2.5
KClO3..2
----------------
KClO3..1
CaCO3..11
Sr(NO3)2.11
S..4
charcoal.1
----------------
KClO3..29
SrCO3..6
orange shellac powder.5
----------------
Sr(NO3)2.4
orange shellac powder.1
----------------
Sr(NO3)2.4
KClO3..13
Hg2Cl2..4
S..2.5
shellac powder.1
charcoal.1
----------------
PURPLE: ************************************************************
----------------
CuSO4..1
KClO3..1
S..1
-----------------
GREEN: ************************************************************
----------------
Ba(NO3)2.7
S..2
KClO3..3
----------------
KClO3..3
Ba(NO3)2.8
S..3
----------------
Ba(ClO3)2.9
orange shellac powder.1
----------------
Ba(NO3)2.3
KClO3..4
orange shellac powder.1
---------------
Ba(NO3)2.18
KClO3..9
S..4.5
shellac powder.1.5
Hg2Cl2..3
charcoal.1.5
----------------
BLUE: ************************************************************
---------------
KClO3..7
CuS..2
S..4
----------------
CuO..1
KNO3..1
Hg2Cl2..1
charcoal.1
---------------
KClO3..20
CuSO4..4
rosin powder.3
---------------
Sb2S3..2
S..4
KNO3..12
----------------
S..7
K2SO4..7
KNO3..7.5
KClO3..14
----------------
KClO3..8
Hg2Cl2..4
CuSO4..5
shellac powder.3
--------
For information about this Usenet posting service, send mail to
remailer@soda.berkeley.edu, with Subject: remailer-info.
Please, don't throw knives.

35
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
S-M-O-K-E B-O-M-B-S
(1) MATERIALS
[1] 6 Table Spoons of Potassium Nitrate
[2] 5 Table Spoons of Sugar
[3] Something to melt them together
[4] Something to pore the shit into
[5] about 10 ohio Blue tip match heads
(2) THE MIXTURE
[1] Measure 6 parts Potassium Nitrate and
5 parts Sugar and put them in the can
that you are going to heat them in and
blend them together.
[2] Put the can over the stove and heat the
mixture together (make sure that you dont
ignight the stuff in the can- to prevent
this form happening make sure you stur and
have it under a low flame)
[3] When you notice that the two solids have become
a liquid then take the can off of the stove
and pour the shit into the thing you want it in
and imbed the 10 blue tip matches into the shit
( the batches should be the kind tht you can
scratch on anything and it will light )
[4] one pound of this shit will engolph a hole chicago
block as long as there is no wind.

96
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke1.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,96 @@
SMOKE1.TXT - Smoke bombs I
Name: Shadow Lord's smoke bomb formulas. Thanx 408 again!
Date: 3/8/90
%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%
/% %/
%/ Smoke Formulas /%
/% %/
%/ Written By: /%
/% %/
%/ The Shadow Lord /%
/% %/
%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%/%
So, you want a smoke screen? Well, in this article I will discuss how to
make Black, White, and Grey, as well as colores Smoke.
Here is a somewhat explosive composition uses by the Germans in WWII for
black
smoke:
Hexachloroethane - 60%
Anthracene - 20%
Magnesium(powder)- 20%
Brown Smoke:
Pitch - 29.2%
Pottasium Nitrate- 47.4%
Borax - 10.6%
Calcium Carbonate- 4.9%
Sand - 4.0%
Sulpher - 3.9%
Note: You may substite pitch by soaking liquid tar in sawdust. This has better
effect.
Grey Smoke:
A:
Hexachloroethane - 50%
Zinc Powder - 25%
Zinc Oxide - 10%
Pottasium Nitrate- 10%
Colophony Resin - 5%
B:
Hexachloroethane - 45.5%
Zinc Oxide - 45.5%
Calcium Silicide - 9.0%
Note: Because of the high vapor presure of HC, HC smokes must be sealed in
and artight container. Also the Zinc Powder one may react with water so
be carefull.
White Smok:
Potassium Chlorate- 20%
Ammonium Chloride - 50%
Naphthalene - 20%
Charcoal - 10%
Pottasium Nitrate - 48.5%
Sulpher - 48.5%
Realgar - 3.0%
Pottasium Nitrate - 50%
Sugar - 50%
Yellow Smoke:
Potassium Nitrate - 25%
Sulpher - 16%
Realgar - 59%
Other Black Smoke:
This one make the most beautifull black smoke but is expensive.
Potassium Perchlorate - 44%
Antimony Trisulphide - 24%
Naphthalene -26%
Solunle Glutinous Rice Starch - 6%
Potassium Perchlorate - 56%
Sulpher - 11%
Anthracene - 33%
Hexachloroethane - 62%
Magnesium - 15%
Naphtalene (or Antracene) - 23%
Red Smoke:
Potassium Chlorate - 25%

33
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smoke2.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,33 @@
How to make Smoke Bombs
Ingredients- Saltpeter (Potassium Nitrate)
Sugar
Alcohol (100% is best, but plain rubbing alcohol will work)
Gunpowder (or some ground-up rocket engines)
Matches (Get a box of 50 packs -they can be very useful.)
Coffee can
Cigarette
Instructions:
------------
Combine the sugar and saltpeter in a 3:1 ratio (Sugar:saltpetre) and heat
over a low flame until the mixture has thoroughly melted together. (It will
look like sticky white lumps when ready) You need to stir this continually
while heating, and remove it from the flame at the very first sign of smoke.
It is safer to work with smaller batches.
Now, dump all of this "smoke powder" into a coffee can, add some match
heads, moisten it with a little alcohol, and add gunpowder until all
the smoke powder is coated. Now tape a cigarette between the match
heads in an unopened book. Imbed the book into the mixture.
Light the butt, and walk casually away to find a nice alibi within 5 minutes.
Notes:
You should be able to find some Saltpeter in a local drug store.
All of the gunpowder, match heads, and alcohol is simply to insure good
ignition. You can omit them, but if you have them, mix them in for
reliability's sake. For the fuse, you can either use the one listed,
or either some cannon fuse, or a rocket igniter and an electrical system.

86
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokepot.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,86 @@
SMOKSCRN.DOC TEXTpZIP  <20>  <20>
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
%% Formulas for Colored Smoke screens %%
%% %%
%% By: Mr. Crue %%
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Black smoke screen--
1) Magnesium powder 19 2) Magnesium powder 20
Hexachloroethane 60 Hexachloroethane 60
Naphthalene 21 Naphthalene 20
3) Hexachloroethane 55.8 4) Black powder FFF 50
Alpha naphol 14 Potassium nitrate 10
Athracene 4.6 Coal tar 20
Aluminum powder 9.3 Powdered charcoal 15
Smokless powder 14 Paraffin 5
Naphthalene 2.3
White smoke screen--
1) Potassium chlorate 44 2) Zinc dust 28
Sulfur flour 15 Zinc oxide 22
Zinc dust 40 Hexachloroethane 50
Sodium bicarbonate 1
3) Zinc dust 66.67
Hexachloroethane 33.33
Yellow smoke screen--
1) Potassium chlorate 25 2) Potassium chlorate 30
Paranitraniline 50 Naphtalene azodimethyl
Lactrose 25 aniline 50
Powdered sugar 20
3) Potassium chlorate
naphthalene 21.4
Azodimethyl aniline 2.7
Auramine 38
Sodium bicarbonate 28.5
Sulfur flour 9.4
Green smoke screen--
1) Potassium nitrate 20
Red arsenic 20
Sulfur flour 20
Antimony sulfide 20
Black powder FFF 20
Red smoke screen--
1) Potassium chlorate 20 2) Potassium chlorate 26
Lactose 20 Diethyaminorosindone 48
Paranitraniline red 60 Powdered sugar 26
3) Potassium chlorate 27.4 4) Potassium
Methylaminoanthraqu- perchlorate 25
inone 42.5 Antimony sulfide 20
Sodium bicarbonate 19.5 Rhodamine red 50
Sulfur flour 10.6 Dextrin 5
These are cool as hell, for they really do work WELL!
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// The PIRATES' HOLLOW //
// 415-236-2371 //
// over 12 Megs of Elite Text Files //
// ROR-ALUCARD //
// Sysop: Doctor Murdock //
// C0-Sysops: That One, Sir Death, Sid Gnarly & Finn //
// //
// "The Gates of Hell are open night and day; //
// Smooth is the Descent, and Easy is the way.." //
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////

144
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokes.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,144 @@
PrimoPyro1990
.... SMOKE FORMULAS ....
DISCLAIMER: The following file contains information of harmful or illegal
nature. Neither the BBS or author providing this information
can be considered responsible for the use of this file.
The person using this knowledge is solely responsible for
it's use or misuse. This file is intended to educate only.
Smokes are used mainly for screening purposes, so with this in mind this
file will concern itself mainly with white smoke. Smokes are mists or part-
icles suspended in the air. They remain suspended there until through envir-
omental conditions or static charge, they begin to attract each other or are
dispersed.
There are three ways to produce smokes: 1) Vaporizing oil, 2) Spraying a
reactive chemical in the air, 3) Burning a pyrotechnic mixture that releases
a smoke forming chemical.
1) When oil is used to make smoke the oil is sprayed into a device that heats
it up in a flash. The resulting oil vapor is exhausted to the air and when it
cools down it condenses into a mist. Remember the kerosene or propane fueled
insect fogger? This works on the same principal.
2) Certain chemicals react with the water in the air to produce a fog. As an
example there are Titanium Tetrachloride, Tin Tetrachloride, Chlorosulfonic
Acid, and Silicon Tetrachloride.
Perhaps the easiest to secure of these is titanium tetrachloride. If these
chemicals are used, keep in mind that they are corrosive so any spraying
equipment must be constructed of stainless steel or suitable material. You
can use titanium tet. by simply taping a small explosive charge onto a
bottle of the stuff. Just watch out for the glass fragments. Titanium tet.
usually comes in a sealed bottle that if opened cannot be sealed again.
3) Pyrotechnic formulas are made that either through a chemical reaction form
a smoke producing chemical or the heat released from burning the mixture
vaporizes a smoke producing chemical.
The first type of mixture forms chemicals such as aluminum chloride, zinc
chloride, zinc oxide, or sulfur dioxide. The second type of mixture uses
chemicals such as ammonium chloride, napthalene, or anthracene which are
vaporized without decomposition. When using mixtures containing a hydrocarbon
such as napthalene, care must be taken that the hot vapor does not catch fire
when it hits the open air. This will cause the amount of smoke to decrease
or cease alltogether. For this reason a chemical that produces carbon dioxide
when heated is added to the mixture. Following are some formulas of both
type 1 and 2. Also volatile chemicals such as napthalene oe hexachloroethane
can sublimate from these mixtures so they must be sealed airtight.
ALL FORMULAS BY WEIGHT
Type 1 formulas: Potassium Chlorate 20 - 30%
Ammonium Chloride 50%
Napthalene 20%
Charcoal 0 - 10%
Usually it is not safe to use an ammonium salt and a chlorate together in a
mixture but in this case this mixture is usually pretty stable with a storage
life of about 10 years if kept dry. If there is a problem with flaming when
this formula is used, decrease the ammonium chloride by about 5% and add
5% sodium bicarbonate.
Potassium Chlorate 60%
Lactose 20%
Ammonium Chloride 20%
This is a fairly good formula but may not give as much as smoke as the first.
Potassium Nitrate 60%
Sugar 40%
Combine these 2 chemicals in a small amount of boiling water. Pour the mix
out onto a sheet of plastic and while it dries, start breaking it into small
pieces. When it is dry, grind it into a powder in a non-sparking mortar and
pestle. Add to it 80% by weight of ammonium chloride. I have had some success
with this mix. You can decrease the amount of chloride for better burning.
Type 2 formulas: Sulfur 55%
Potassium Nitrate 40%
Fine Charcoal 5%
Mix these chemicals together well and be sure the mixture is free of sulfur
chunks. This is slow burning and the smoke consists of sulfur trioxide,
sulfur dioxide and vaporized sulfur.
Hexachloroethane 45%
Zinc Oxide 45%
Fine Aluminum 10%
This mixture was used in the american armed forces and is known as HC. A
charge with a weight of about 8 oz. can produce over 100,000 cu. ft. of a
dense gray white smoke. If the aluminum is not a fine powder it will be
almost impossible to ignite.
Hexachloroethane 53%
Zinc Dust 44%
Magnesium Oxide 3%
This formula is similar to HC. The smoke consists of zinc chloride.
Hexachloroethane 45%
Zinc Oxide 45%
Calcium Silicide 10%
This is an interesting formula. In addition to producing a zinc chloride
smoke, it also forms silicon tetrachloride which reacts with moisture in the
air to produce silicic acid which is a smoke agent in itself.
Hexachloroethane 40 - 45%
Zinc Oxide 20 - 40%
Ammonium Perchlorate 35 - 10%
Powdered Charcoal 5%
This is a newer formula and is mixed after being dampened with a 5% PVC
solution (use PVC pipe primer as a solvent). The rate of burning depends on
the amount of ammonium perchlorate. The smoke consists of ammonium chloride,
and zinc chloride.
Magnesium Powder 8%
Red Phosphorous 51%
Manganese Dioxide 35%
Zinc Oxide 3%
Linseed Oil 3%
This formula which contains red phosphorous is very good as phosphorous is
the best masking smoke agent. Red phosphorous is very easily ignited so mix
this chemical when dampened with a small amount of alcohol. It produces a
complex smoke of phosphorous anhydride which reacts with moisture in the air.
These formulas are usually contained in a stout cardboard cylinder which has
a number of vent holes. A tube with a 1" I.D. 5" long and 1/4'walls is a
good starting point for any of these formulas. Holes can be drilled in the
sides of the tube then covered over with tape. A smoke pot is a large can
that contains at least 2 lbs. of a smoke mixture. These can put out over
500,000 cu. ft. of smoke.
Although the above mixtures are not outright poisonous, do not breathe in
too much of the smoke if possible. Do not use these indoors and be careful of
accidental fires the smoke bombs can cause.
*** Kilroy was here ***
Downloaded From P-80 International Information Systems 304-744-2253

137
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokes.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,137 @@
PrimoPyro1990
.......
.... SMOKE FORMULAS ....
..
DISCLAIMER: The following file contains information of harmful or illegal
nature. Neither the BBS or author providing this information
. can be considered responsible for the use of this file.
. The person using this knowledge is solely responsible for
. it's use or misuse. This file is intended to educate only.
.
.
.
Smokes are used mainly for screening purposes, so with this in mind this
file will concern itself mainly with white smoke. Smokes are mists or part-
icles suspended in the air. They remain suspended there until through envir-
omental conditions or static charge, they begin to attract each other or are
dispersed.
There are three ways to produce smokes: 1) Vaporizing oil, 2) Spraying a
reactive chemical in the air, 3) Burning a pyrotechnic mixture that releases
a smoke forming chemical.
1) When oil is used to make smoke the oil is sprayed into a device that heats
it up in a flash. The resulting oil vapor is exhausted to the air and when it
cools down it condenses into a mist. Remember the kerosene or propane fueled
insect fogger? This works on the same principal.
2) Certain chemicals react with the water in the air to produce a fog. As an
example there are Titanium Tetrachloride, Tin Tetrachloride, Chlorosulfonic
Acid, and Silicon Tetrachloride.
Perhaps the easiest to secure of these is titanium tetrachloride. If these
chemicals are used, keep in mind that they are corrosive so any spraying
equipment must be constructed of stainless steel or suitable material. You
can use titanium tet. by simply taping a small explosive charge onto a
bottle of the stuff. Just watch out for the glass fragments. Titanium tet.
usually comes in a sealed bottle that if opened cannot be sealed again.
3) Pyrotechnic formulas are made that either through a chemical reaction form
a smoke producing chemical or the heat released from burning the mixture
vaporizes a smoke producing chemical.
The first type of mixture forms chemicals such as aluminum chloride, zinc
chloride, zinc oxide, or sulfur dioxide. The second type of mixture uses
chemicals such as ammonium chloride, napthalene, or anthracene which are
vaporized without decomposition. When using mixtures containing a hydrocarbon
such as napthalene, care must be taken that the hot vapor does not catch fire
when it hits the open air. This will cause the amount of smoke to decrease
or cease alltogether. For this reason a chemical that produces carbon dioxide
when heated is added to the mixture. Following are some formulas of both
type 1 and 2. Also volatile chemicals such as napthalene oe hexachloroethane
can sublimate from these mixtures so they must be sealed airtight.
ALL FORMULAS BY WEIGHT
Type 1 formulas: Potassium Chlorate 20 - 30%
Ammonium Chloride 50%
.. Napthalene 20%
.. Charcoal 0 - 10%
Usually it is not safe to use an ammonium salt and a chlorate together in a
mixture but in this case this mixture is usually pretty stable with a storage
life of about 10 years if kept dry. If there is a problem with flaming when
this formula is used, decrease the ammonium chloride by about 5% and add
5% sodium bicarbonate.
Potassium Chlorate 60%
.. Lactose 20%
.. Ammonium Chloride 20%
This is a fairly good formula but may not give as much as smoke as the first.
Potassium Nitrate 60%
.. Sugar 40%
Combine these 2 chemicals in a small amount of boiling water. Pour the mix
out onto a sheet of plastic and while it dries, start breaking it into small
pieces. When it is dry, grind it into a powder in a non-sparking mortar and
pestle. Add to it 80% by weight of ammonium chloride. I have had some success
with this mix. You can decrease the amount of chloride for better burning.
..
Type 2 formulas: Sulfur 55%
.. Potassium Nitrate 40%
.. Fine Charcoal 5%
Mix these chemicals together well and be sure the mixture is free of sulfur
chunks. This is slow burning and the smoke consists of sulfur trioxide,
sulfur dioxide and vaporized sulfur.
Hexachloroethane 45%
Zinc Oxide 45%
.. Fine Aluminum 10%
This mixture was used in the american armed forces and is known as HC. A
charge with a weight of about 8 oz. can produce over 100,000 cu. ft. of a
dense gray white smoke. If the aluminum is not a fine powder it will be
almost impossible to ignite.
Hexachloroethane 53%
.. Zinc Dust 44%
.. Magnesium Oxide 3%
This formula is similar to HC. The smoke consists of zinc chloride.
Hexachloroethane 45%
.. Zinc Oxide 45%
.. Calcium Silicide 10%
This is an interesting formula. In addition to producing a zinc chloride
smoke, it also forms silicon tetrachloride which reacts with moisture in the
air to produce silicic acid which is a smoke agent in itself.
Hexachloroethane 40 - 45%
.. Zinc Oxide 20 - 40%
Ammonium Perchlorate 35 - 10%
Powdered Charcoal 5%
This is a newer formula and is mixed after being dampened with a 5% PVC
solution (use PVC pipe primer as a solvent). The rate of burning depends on
the amount of ammonium perchlorate. The smoke consists of ammonium chloride,
and zinc chloride.
Magnesium Powder 8%
.. Red Phosphorous 51%
. Manganese Dioxide 35%
.. Zinc Oxide 3%
.. Linseed Oil 3%
This formula which contains red phosphorous is very good as phosphorous is
the best masking smoke agent. Red phosphorous is very easily ignited so mix
this chemical when dampened with a small amount of alcohol. It produces a
complex smoke of phosphorous anhydride which reacts with moisture in the air.
These formulas are usually contained in a stout cardboard cylinder which has
a number of vent holes. A tube with a 1" I.D. 5" long and 1/4'walls is a
good starting point for any of these formulas. Holes can be drilled in the
sides of the tube then covered over with tape. A smoke pot is a large can
that contains at least 2 lbs. of a smoke mixture. These can put out over
500,000 cu. ft. of smoke.
Although the above mixtures are not outright poisonous, do not breathe in
too much of the smoke if possible. Do not use these indoors and be careful of
accidental fires the smoke bombs can cause.

74
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokescr.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,74 @@
*****************************************************************************
* *
* The Ninja Warrior *
* Presents: *
* Smoke Screen #1 *
* *
*****************************************************************************
THIS IS THE SECOND OF THE NINJA009 SERIES, THE FIRST BEING THE ISSUE: POISON
#1. I HOPE YOU ENJOYED THE FIRST BULLETIN AND I'M SURE YOU'LL ENJOY THIS ONE
AS WELL...
***WARNING***
AS I KNOW, IN CALIFORNIA, THERE IS A LAW THAT PROHIBITS SMOKE SCREENS. IF
YOU GET CAUGHT SCREENING UP THE STREETS, DON'T MENTION YOUR MENTOR TO THE
COPS. AND IF YOU WANT TO BE A NINJA, OR JUST A RAD DUDE, DON'T FUCK AROUND
IN THE WRONG PLACES, AT THE WRONG TIME...
BACKGROUND ON SMOKE SCREENS:
----------------------------
SMOKE SCREENS WERE USED BY THE NINJA FOR A WAY OF ESCAPING IN TIGHT SITUA-
TIONS. THE NINJA HAD TWO TYPES OF SMOKE SCREENS. ONE THAT REQUIRES A FLINT
AND STONE, AND ONE THAT DOESN'T REQUIRE ANY HEAT. I WILL DESCRIBE THE ONE
WHICH REQUIRES A LITTLE HEAT. ALL I KNOW IS THAT A HOT DAY IN L.A. ON TOP
OF A BLACK CAR CAN IGNITE THIS SMOKE BOMB. THE NINJA USED TO CALL THE SMOKE
SCREENS, 'REI SEI NO KIRI', OR SPIRITUAL FOG, OR 'NAGE DAMA' OR HURLED SMOKE.
I WILL BE DISCUSSING THE 'REI SEI NO KIRI' OR SPIRITUAL FOG. PEOPLE HAVE
THOUGHT OF THE NINJA AS MAGICAL BEINGS, MOST AMERICANS THINK THEY ARE MYTH-
ICAL, BECAUSE THEY HAVE HEARD STORIES FROM FICTIONAL BOOKS. THE NINJA DON'T
JUST DISAPPEAR INTO THIN AIR OR WALK THRU WALLS, THEY SPRAY SOME SMOKES TO
HIDE SOME WHERE TEMPORARILY UNTIL THE OPPONENT IS PUZZLED AND LEAVES. I WILL
DISCUSS SOME OF THESE TECHNIQUES IN THIS ISSUE.
REI SEI NO KIRI
---------------
THE OLD WAY OF PREPARING THE SMOKE SCLT PETER IS
DISTRIBUTED WELL WITH THE SUGAR. THEN YOU CAN STO DAMAGE IT. WHEN YOU MIX IT WELL
ENOUGH, YOU HAVE FINISHED!!! IF YOU
DO LIGHT THIS SCREEN, BEWARE...YOU ARE RISKING YOUR OWN LIFE. GET YOUR ASS
OUT OF THERE BUT TRY NOT TO BE SEEN. TIME THE WICK IF POSSIBLE. IF YOU HAVE
ENOUGH OF IT GOING IN A ROOM WITH YOUR FAVORITE ENEMY IN IT, IT CAN KILL THE
DUDE WITH 5 MINUTES OF THIS SHIT. THE THING IS IT'S PRETTY EASY TO GET HIS
ASS OUT OF THERE, TOO. SO JUST KNOCK HIM OUT COLD BEFORE YOU IGNITE THE
SMOKES. IF HE DOES AWAKE, AFTER THE SMOKE DISSIPATES, HE WILL MOST LIKELY
DIE OF SOME LUNG PROBLEMS. ANYWAYS, IF YOU WANT HIM TO DIE QUICK WHO GIVES A
DAMN. BUT, MAKE SURE IF YOU DO THIS DON'T GET YOUR ASS BUSTED.
--------------
WAYS OF ESCAPE
--------------
I WON'T GO INTO DETAIL ON THIS ISSUE BUT HERE IS ONE WAY OF EVASION. FIRST
MOST LIKELY WHEN A PERSON GETS IN SOME HEAT NOWADAYS, IT'S GONNA BE ON THE
STREETS. SO...LOOK FOR A PLACE WHERE YOU KNOW YOU CAN HIDE OUT FOR A WHILE.
LIGHT ONE NEARBY AND WHEN THE SMOKE GOES UP, LOOK DIRECTLY AT YOUR OPPONENT
UNTIL HE IS VERY DIM AND FAINT, THEN MAKE YOUR MOVE. GO TO YOUR HIDING
PLACE. AND STAY THERE FOR A WHILE. WHEN YOU THINK THE COAST IS CLEAR, JAM
WHEREVER YOU WANT TO KEEP YOUR ASS SAFE.
WELL...I HAVE SAID ENOUGH ABOUT
DATED: 01-16-1985
PLEASE DO NOT ALTER THIS PHILE IN ANY WAY. I WANT THIS PHILE TO BE COMPLETE
AND STAY COMPLETE AS IT IS OFFERED TO MANY CURIOUS MINDS. YOU MAY SHARE THIS
PHILE WITH ANYONE AND EVERYONE. BUT THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THE SECRETS TO
YOUR SELF.
T H E N I N J A W A R R I O R
NEXT SERIES: HOW TO MAKE A SHURIKEN AND HOW TO USE ONE.
Downloaded From P-80 International Information Systems 304-744-2253

44
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokin.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,44 @@
SMOKE BOMB (3 VERSIONS)
INGREDIENTS (Version 1):
Salt peter (available at almost any drug store)
Sugar (granulated works best)
METHOD:
Mix 4 parts salt peter with 1 part sugar
Shake Well
Heat at a VERY low heat until the mixture resembles caramel
Note: You do not have to heat the mixture, but it is hard to work
with in a powder form
Shape the mixture and insert a fuse (a match will do it too)
Note: It helps to add a few match heads to the caramel mixture to
even out the burning
WARNING: This burns VERY hot. Do not set it off near highly flammable
areas. Concrete is the safest place to burn them (and it still leaves a
lasting impression on the surface).
INGREDIENTS (Version 2):
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
METHOD:
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
Pour it intoa future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
few matches to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up
a whole block with thick, white smoke!
INGREDIENTS & METHOD (Version 3):
Simple somke/stink bomb - you can purchase sulphur at a drugstore under
the name: flowers of sulphur. Now when sulphur burns it will give off a very strong odour
and plenty of smoke. Now all you need is a fuse from a firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur.
Fill the can with sulphur (pack very lightly), put aluminum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into the foil, insert the wick,
and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. You can find many uses for this!
BACK TO THE LIST

47
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smokpowd.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,47 @@
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++ ++
++ How To make Smokeless Powder ++
++ ++
++ By: Meter Totin of the D.P.C. ++
++ ++
++ Call the Promblaster BBS/ae ++
++ HQ of the DPC 303-422-3759 ++
++ ++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Smokeless powder is the strongest of the so called low power explosives and is
also one of the most stable. It is much stonger black powder. It is also rela-
tively easy to make. Which makes it one of the most popular explosives today.
Instructions : Making Smokeless Powder
1. Boil cotton for 30 minutes, in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide.
2. Wash the cotton in hot water and allow to dry.
3. Mix slowly and carefully at 25 de- grees centigrade, 250 cc. of concen-
trated sulfuric acid, 150 cc. of con- centrated nitric acid, and 20 cc. of
water. They must be kept at 25 degrees C.
4. Next place the dried cotton in the acid solution, and stir well with
either a glass or porcelain rod. DO NOT use a metal one! This should be done
for 35 minutes.
5. After nitration the acids are washed away, and the cotton is wahed in
boiling water 5 times, each time for 25 minutes. The cotton is given several
tests with litmus paper. If any of the acids are present, a 2% sloution of
sodium bycarb- onate shoud take care of what ever is left. This is important
since any acids left act as an impurity to the explo- sive making it more
unstable.
Use : Of Smokeless Powder
Well that is up to you. I should mention that you need to be careful when
using this since it is extremely powerful and very dangerous. If you have not
had any experience in these matters do not attempt to make it.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++ Join the Denver Pirate's Club ++
++ Call the Promblaster for Info. ++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


55
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/smpipebm.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,55 @@
Small Pipe Bombs typed and invented by
12/20/92 Fire and Brimstone
SMPIPEBM.DOC &
Lex
Here's what you need.
PVC pipe (a relativly small in diameter, and sort of thin.)
3-5 in. long HOW/WHERE .. hardware stores, off of construction
sites, around the house, maybe
Flash Powder/Gun Powder/Black Powder .. generally any base powder for this
HOW/WHERE .. gun shops, make it yourself, out of model rocket
engines, etc
Hot glue gun & glue sticks .. a little less than on glue stick is used per
bomb HOW/WHERE .. Hardware stores. You can buy glue sticks at your
nieghborhood Walgreens.
Fuse .. We have some nice waterproof fuse for this. HOW/WHERE We got this
at a store called "SPY HEADQUARTERS".. you might be able to make
it youself, with another doc. You can also mail-order from a
fireworks supply house. Tell them you need it for your artwork,
or something.
Drill .. to make holes for the fuses
..
Okay. Saw off a portion of your plastic pipe. Drill a hole in it
so that the fuse can fit. Be sure to drill before your put in the
powder. Put a piece of paper underneath the pipe, and squeeze about
two cm.'s of glue into the bottom. Now dip this into some water, to
cool it off faster. When it's cool enough, pull off the paper, and
pour your base powder into it. Insert the fuse in the pre-drilled
hole. Pour another 2 cm. or so of glue over the top, sealing it off.
If you have some waterproof fuse, pour some around it to seal it
off very nicely. If you had the waterproof fuse, then dip the
whole thing into the water to cool it down. Drape some of the hot
glue on the top caps you made and down around the tube body. This
will strenghthen it more. If you have enought glue, then cover the
whole goddamned thing in it.
Light, run, and watch. They're really great, we've done these, and
they work!
(Watch out for flying pieces of PVC pipe, by the way. If you put one
side with less glue, you can also make a rocket. Make a launcher
out of a bigger piece of steel pipe, and there ya go!)

64
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/snkbom.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,64 @@
How to make the Smelliest stink-Bomb of ALL!
By The HitMen, Vito and Vinnie
(Whose last names end in a vowel)
Iron-sulfide stink solution is sold for 98 cents for a 1/8 ounce bottle in
joke shops but for about $1.00 a quart you can make your own with little
problem. The active ingredient is ammonium sulfide which stinks to high
heaven like rotten eggs or a full outhouse in summertime especially if it is
spilled on the floor or vaporized by an explosion or sprayer.
To make some, you mix four ounces of sulfur with eight ounces of hydrated lime
in a stew pot (at least half-gallon capacity). A quart of water is added and
the mess is heated and stirred until the sulfur has completely blended. The
hydrated lime will sink to the bottom of the pan and yellow liquid is then
poured off into a bucket.
Take the bucket outside, if you have any sense, and add one pound of sulfate
of ammonia. Stir it a minute and hold your nose. Then cover the bucket with
plastic wrap and let it set for about a half hour. Then pour off the liquid
slowly through a cloth filter into a bottle. If you don't have an outside you
can use your bathroom. Just hope no one has to go for an hour or so. The
liquid is vile but it is not poison.
Sulfur may be obtained from rose dust (an insecticide) which is very high
grade and makes excellent gunpowder. Rose dust has 10% inert ingredients so
10% more should be added to any formula requiring sulfur. Rose dust and
sulfate of ammonia (a fertilizer) may be purchased in the garden department of
a home improvement/hardware store. Hydrated lime is obtained in the building
supply department where cement is sold. The total cost of the ingredients is
less than ten dollars.
Stinkum is either poured on the floor, shot from a water pistol, thrown in a
bottle (or light bulb) or vaporized by a firecracker in a plastic bottle. A
fun method in a crowded public restroom is to go into a toilet stall and shut
the door. Hold your breath and pour a large quantity on a loose wad of toilet
paper. Toss the wad on the floor behind the toilet and quickly exit the
restroom.
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm)
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845
Salted Slug Systems Strange 408-454-9368
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102
Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 408-961-9315
My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078
Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives,
arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality,
insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS.
Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are,
where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother.
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X

103
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sobultra.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,103 @@
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><>͸ <20><>͸ <20><>͸ <20><>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> T<>H<EFBFBD>E <20><>͸<EFBFBD><CDB8> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>͵ U<>L<EFBFBD>T<EFBFBD>R<EFBFBD>A<EFBFBD>S<EFBFBD>O<EFBFBD>N<EFBFBD>I<EFBFBD>C H<>E<EFBFBD>L<EFBFBD>L <20><><EFBFBD>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><>; <20><>; <20><>; D<>E<EFBFBD>V<EFBFBD>I<EFBFBD>C<EFBFBD>E <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> A production by: Loki [SOB] <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
DISCLAIMER:
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
The information contained in this file is for informational purposes only. The
Servants of Babuska take no responsibility for any injuries or damages incurred
by the use of the device plans given in this file.
PRINCIPLE:
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
The Ultrasonic Hell Device emits a very high (approx. 14-22kHz) sound which is
almost unheard by most people. However, it is still very loud and although
almost nothing is heard, it causes discomfort and a headache if the sound is
sustained for a period of time (approx. 1 minute)
PARTS:
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
(1) 555 timer chip (NE555, LM555, or any other 555 variant will do)
(1) 8-pin socket (optional)
(1) 470 ohm resistor
(1) 1k PCB-mount potentiometer
(1) .01uf capacitor (.01mfd is the same thing)
(1) Perfboard/Breadboard/whatever to put it on (about 1.5"x1.5" should do)
(1) 9v battery clip
(1) 9v battery
(1) 8 ohm speaker (the bigger the better!)
(1) SPST push-on/push-off switch
SCHEMATICS:
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
+9v +------------> Speaker -
^ |
470 | |
+---------/\/\-+------+-------+
| |8 |
| +------+------+ |
| 7| |4 |
+-------+ +-------+
| | |
| \ | |3
This right --> +>/ | 555 +--------------> Speaker +
here is the \ 6| |
1k pot. +-+---+ |2
| | +-----+
| | | |
| +------+------+ |
| 1| |
| +-----|(-----+
| | .01uf |
| v |
| -9v (GND) |
+-----------------------+
Note: The numbers next to the 555 connections are the corresponding pins.
FURTHER CONSTRUCTION:
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
Cut one of the battery cords in half and attach the switch to the ends. This
will make it easier to turn off and on.
To make the device even easier to operate, put it in a case. Plastic, metal,
cardboard, whatever. Just make sure there's a place for the sound to come out
(drill a few holes in front of the speaker.)
PHYSICAL LAYOUT:
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
The conventional layout of this device is the switch installed in the top of
the case, with the circuit board attached to the bottom, the battery next to
the circuit board, and the speaker over the battery. This is a handy way to
lay it out and looks pretty inconspicuous.
Another way is the miniaturized version. No perfboard is needed for this, just
the components. Instead of a 9v battery, lithium battery(s) may be used. The
best speaker to get for this is a 1" tweeter- expensive but SMALL and LOUD.
Attach the components directly to the chip, thus making an extremely small
circuit. A good way to do this is to put the 470ohm resistor and the 1k pot
on the top side, the .01uf cap on the bottom side, and to attach jumper wires
between the 4&8 pins and the 2&6 pins. Then simply attach the battery & speaker
connections to where they belong.
FINAL NOTES:
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
With parts purchased from Radio Hack, this circuit (not including case) should
cost you around $4. With mail-order/surplus prices you should be able to
assemble it for around $1.50.
This device works extremely well in a quiet environment with a lot of people
(i.e. SAT test, exams.) When operated for a full thirty minutes it causes people
within about a 10' radius to develop intense headaches.
Make sure that when you are using it that you wear some sort of ear protection
as you will be at the center of the sound.
Have fun....

28
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodabomb.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,28 @@
Soda Bombs
(Typed up by the Dread Pirate Roberts)
Supplies Needed: Granulated Pool Chlorine
(At least 75% calcium hypochlorite)
Sugar
Water
2 Liter Soda Bottle
DIRECTIONS:
Take a quarter cup of chlorine and place it in an empty and
dry 2 liter bottle. Put the same amount of sugar and place it in
the bottle too. Add enough water to make the mixture soupy.
Put the cap on and throw it away!!! (It splatters all kinds of
blinding and noxious chemicals when it goes off) As the sugar and
chlorine dissolve in the water they will react with each other.
The bomb is about as loud as an M-80. The bomb will take anywhere
from 30 seconds to 5 minutes to go off so if it doesn't explode
still stay away and come back the next day to examine it. If it doesn't
work try adjusting the amounts of sugar and chlorine.
NOTE: I've never personally made one of these soda bombs, so just
be careful when you decide to make them. I'd be interested
in knowing the results and what mixture you used.
-DPirateR-

47
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodaboom.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,47 @@
THE SOUTH POLE..........[312] 677-7140
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$ $
$ SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB $
$ ---- ----- --- ---- $
$ $
$ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $
$ $
$ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $
$ BY KURT SAXON $
$ $
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a
soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other
explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is
then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.
After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine
is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will
not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will
then have a shattering effect on passersby.
It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's
soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb
he would break a nasty habit fast!
!!
!!
!! <-chemical ingiter
---------
! !1! !
! ===== !
!*! !"!
! ! ! !
! ! ! !<- big firecracker
! ! !%!
! ==== !
! !
! # !
! --- !
! ! ! <- nuts & bolts
! / !
! !
---------


72
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sodabulb.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,72 @@
- S O D A B U L B B O M B S -
These are an excellent starter project for all the would-be
anarchists out there, and I know many a people who have started up
through these. Soda bulb bombs are also quite handy with experienced
anarchists as they can be employed as quite a nice distractor.
EQUIPMENT:
Soda Bulbs (you can buy these from Safeway or Coles for about $3 for 10)
Sparklers (from Supermarkets, for 70c you can get 2 boxes that come with
5 sparklers in each box, they must be the silver, Electric type
sparklers)
Aluminium Foil (duhhhh?!)
METHOD:
1. Get a piece of tin foil about the size of a five and a quarter inch
disk.
2. Crush off the powder from three sparklers and throw away the wire.
3. Place a soda bulb in the middle of the foil and dump the sparkler
powder on top.
4. Take a sparkler and cut off the section of wire that isn't covered in
powder, then place it so one end is touching the pile of crushed-up
sparkler powder and the other end is protruding about two inches over
the edge of the tin foil (see diagram).
________________________________
| |
| |
| ; . . sparkler |
| ;. .. .; ; ; powder |
| soda /-------\_ . | sparkler
| bulb \_______/~===========================
| ;;..; ;;.;... |
| . . : |
| |
| tin foil |
|________________________________|
5. Now simply scrunch up the tin foil around the contents so it holds it
all together in a neat bundle. Take care not to compress the foil around
the place where the sparkler goes into the bundle.
6. Now all you have to do is light the end of the protruding sparkler
and walk off.
HINTS & TIPS:
* These are beautiful for taking apart letter boxes! A while back I use
to do a paper delivery (I dumped the papers most of the time), and a
lady from the newspaper company called up and said that the people at
such and such a house had rang her up and told her that their paper wasn't
being delivered. So that Friday night a mate and I went to this house
and put a soda bulb bomb in their letter box. Although the letter box
was bloody sturdy (1 inch thick wood), the explosion caused huge cracks
to appear on all the sides and it also blew the top off it. :)
* After lighting the sparkler WALK OFF, don't run, as it will look very
suspicious if you run off. There is quite a delay between actually
lighting it to when it goes off. More then sufficient to get the hell
out of there.
* The way these things actually work, is that inside the soda bulbs
there is a compressed gas (carbon dioxide), and when the sparkler powder
around it starts to burn, the intense heat causes the gas inside the
soda bulb to expand, thus blowing out the metal container.
.\\orbid .\ngel
=MAIM=
[DiE Trial]

227
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/softlaun.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,227 @@
softlaun.txt
Additional instructions for Soft Drink Can Launcher
This file is intended to accompany the file softlaun.gif, which
graphically details the device described herein.
Overview:
~~~~~~~~~
This is a very short "mortar" constructed for the express purpose of
launching soft drink cans straight up into the air. It is crude, prone to
rupture during use, and consumes rather inordinate amounts of Pyrodex.
But it sure is fun, and it makes an incredible amount of noise when it
goes off!
Construction Materials:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Large coffee can, empty, no lid
- Concrete mix, admixture, water, etc. (driveway repair mix okay)
- Steel reinforcing wire
- Full soft drink can (non-carbonated, if possible)
- Paper or thin flexible plastic sheeting
- Tape
- Vaseline
- Drill and drill bit to fit fuze wire
Construction Procedures:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Tape either paper or plastic around the soft drink can, enclosing the
bottom of it as smoothly and consistently as possible. Try to avoid any
kinds of seams, and make a fairly tight fit with whatever size can you
intend to launch the most. This wrapped-up can will be used to form the
inside of the barrel (I refer to this as the barrel mandrel), so its
diameter is important. Some cans are slightly different diameters, so
make sure you choose one that is similar to the types of cans you intend
to launch. When wrapping the can, you may leave the top part open, but
the bottom must be sealed up smoothly.
When you have smoothly wrapped the full soft drink can in paper or
plastic, coat the sides of it with a smooth, thin layer of vaseline. This
will ensure easy removal after the concrete has set.
Construct a basket out of the steel wire. This basket will sit inside the
coffee can and be encased in the concrete, providing tensile
reinforcement. Concrete is strong for compressive uses, but this is a
tensile use, and the addition of a reinforcing basket will greatly extend
the life and maximum loads of this mortar.
If you are unsure how close to space the wires of this basket, then
experiment, or ask someone who has experience with reinforcing concrete.
As a rule of thumb, the more reinforcing wire you have, the stronger it
will be, but only to a point. I would recommend a mesh of no closer than
1/2", and optimally I would recommend spacing the wires 1" (one inch)
apart from each other.
The inner portion of the basket must be large enough to handle the
displacement of the soft drink can barrel. Test this by putting the
reinforcing basket into the coffee can, then holding the barrel mandrel
approximately where it will go. Adjust the shape of the reinforcing
basket to accommodate the barrel mandrel.
When you are sure of the shape of your reinforcing basket, then tape it in
place inside the coffee can. This is only to hold it in place while the
concrete is poured.
Mix the concrete as directed. The stronger concrete you have the better,
but it's still probably going to end up blowing up after some amount of
use. :) It is better to err on the side of a little extra moisture in
the concrete mixture, to aid in the removal of air bubbles.
Pour the concrete into the coffee can, allowing it to flow smoothly around
the reinforcing basket. Do not fill the coffee can yet! When it is close
to full, press the barrel mandrel into the wet concrete right in the
center. Seat the mandrel to the required depth for your barrel length.
Add any more concrete mix you might need to fill the coffee can
completely.
Once everything is poured and the mandrel is straight and true (vertical),
shake the can, even banging it on a hard surface (this is where a non-
carbonated soda can comes in handy!) or rapping on the side of it with
your hands to try and settle the concrete and remove any air bubbles that
might weaken the structure.
After the concrete has completely set (anywhere up to a week or so),
carefully pull the barrel mandrel out and inspect your work. It may help
to rotate the mandrel as you withdraw it from the concrete. You should
have a perfectly-shaped shallow mortar made out of reinforced concrete.
If you wish, you may wipe the vaseline out of the barrel. It is not
necessary to remove the vaseline, as it will burn off within a few
launches. Before using this mortar, it is important to allow the concrete
to fully set. Depending on the brand of concrete, this could require up
to a full month! Don't jump the gun (pun intended), because incompletely
set concrete is far weaker, and will easily explode during launch.
When the concrete has fully set, use the drill bit to drill a flash hole.
Measure your barrel "depth" carefully and drill straight in from the side,
right into the very bottom part of the combustion chamber. Choose a drill
bit that is approximately the diameter of the fuzewire you intend to use,
and drill carefully to make sure it goes in straight. A drill press or
drill jig may be helpful to drill accurately.
Launch Materials:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Pyrodex
- Green hobby fuze
- Soft drink can
- Some type of load/filler for can
- Match or lighter
Launch Procedures:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Carefully review the safety notes contained at the bottom of this document
before you attempt a launch.
Choose an area of soft grass or dirt to place the mortar. It is best not
to place it on a hard surface, since there is nothing to absorb the launch
shock, and this will greatly reduce the useful life of the mortar. If you
must place it on a hard surface, then place it on a stack of old
newspapers or a telephone book to help cushion the launch shock.
A keen feature of this device is that you will be launching the contents
of a soda can. When starting out, you may want to just launch an empty
aluminum can, as this is very lightweight and will be a good first test of
your mortar-building skills. Later you may want to add some water or sand
to the can to increase its weight, and therefore its ultimate range.
When you have selected and filled up your projectile, slip it into the
barrel to ensure a good fit. Slightly loose is fine (less than 1/10th of
an inch diameter), but make sure it does NOT bind or stick firmly on the
way down to seat against the bottom of the barrel. When you are satisfied
with the smooth operation of the projectile within the barrel, remove the
projectile from the barrel.
Insert a length of fuze into the fuze hole, pushing out any remains of
burned fuze from a previous launch. Make sure some significant length of
the fuze reaches into the combustion chamber to ensure positive ignition.
For fire safety, put a small piece of tape over the fuze right where it
enters the side of the can.
Add a small amount of Pyrodex RS powder into the launch tube. When I say
"start small," a good amount is a teaspoon or less. You can always work
up to more if the mortar is holding together well. The powder should pile
up at the bottom of the barrel, and be touching the fuze wire enough to
ensure positive ignition.
WITHOUT placing the projectile into the barrel yet, position your mortar
at the launching site. I recommend keeping it nearly vertical, or at
least tipped no more than about 20 degrees from vertical. If the mortar
falls to one side after launch, it can damage itself. If the mortar falls
over during fuze burn, there is NO TELLING where that projectile is going
to go sideways!
When you are ready to launch, slip the projectile into the barrel, again
testing to make sure it doesn't bind or scrape too badly on the way in.
Light the fuze and go and run really, really far away and hide behind a
LARGE SOLID OBJECT! Boulders are great places to hide behind, but make
sure the projectile doesn't come down on your head afterwards. :)
To reuse this mortar, remove any unburnt or partially burnt fuze and/or
gunpowder. Make sure no embers remain. It is usually not necessary to
clean the mortar between launches, unless enough grease builds up that it
becomes difficult to insert the fuze or load the powder.
BEFORE re-use, carefully inspect the mortar, looking particularly at the
concrete for signs of structural failures, cracks, chips, bulges, etc.
If the mortar becomes cracked, THROW IT AWAY! DO NOT CONTINUE USING A
CRACKED MORTAR. THE NEXT TIME IT WILL MOST LIKELY EXPLODE!
Theory of Operation:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The ignition of the gunpowder will generate gas pressure inside the
combustion chamber, and hopefully the weak link will be the soft drink
can, which should go skyrocketing out of the mortar. If you load too much
powder or weight into the can, you may rupture the mortar. This brings me
to Load Notes.
Load Notes:
~~~~~~~~~~~
The more powder you put in the mortar, the more total expanded gas might
be generated during ignition. I say "might" because if you choose a very
light projectile (an empty soda can), then it will leave the barrel long
before the powder has burned fully, thereby relieving pressure on the
mortar.
Conversely, if you choose too heavy a projectile, it will not have left by
the time the powder fully burns, and depending on the amount of powder and
gasses generated, it could exceed the structural strength of the mortar.
Remember that every time you make the projectile heavier, that means when
the powder burns it has to press a bit harder against the projectile to
get it to move. It also means that the projectile will tend to stay in
the barrel longer, allowing more of the powder to burn under pressure,
generating higher and higher chamber pressures. As all handloaders and
black powder enthusiasts know, a TINY increase in projectile weight or
powder load can result in a DRASTIC increase in chamber pressure, and
rapidly lead to structural failure.
IF YOU MAKE TOO MUCH PRESSURE INSIDE THIS MORTAR, IT WILL STRUCTURALLY
FAIL AND THEN EXPLODE LIKE A GRENADE!!!!
Lighter loads will extend the useful life of your mortar. Heavy loads
will stress the concrete more and cause it to crack earlier. But they
sure are fun!
Safety Notes:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This device can KILL! Do not attempt any of this without careful
supervision from someone who has experience with constructing explosive
devices. Do not attempt this without proper eye, hearing and hand
protection, in case of accidental detonation or mortar rupture. Do NOT
smoke while operating this device, as accidental detonation may occur.
When the projectile leaves the barrel mouth, there will be a fairly
impressive blast wave emanating from the device, so be sure to wear
hearing protection.
The coffee can around the concrete MAY aid in the capture and retention of
concrete shrapnel should the mortar fail, but don't count on it. Big
pieces of high-speed concrete can quickly ruin your day. :)
As always, have fun, and please report to me your successes, your
failures, your improvements, etc. My address is <kwd@netcom.com>, and you
may find updates to this project via anonymous FTP:
ftp.netcom.com
/pub/kw/kwd/pyro

481
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sp.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,481 @@
Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives
This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious
stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you
kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your
body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't
treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.
Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read
'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules
that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about
the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly
before starting anything.
Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable,
and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear
understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of
ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided.
Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following:
1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at
most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for
bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale
pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of
water before weighing the next ingredient.
3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the
workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open
containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage
or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and
replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.
4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
another ingredient.
5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should
also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass
also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an
accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the
top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some
mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in
a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform.
In all cases, point the open end of the container away from
yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any
stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
sparks or static.
Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on
a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them
across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.
6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the
material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
contents down.
7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be
stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an
accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
locked away.
8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber
or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture
caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the
friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any
procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.
9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES.
Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure
lenses and frames are not flammable.
10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there.
They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.
11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.
12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.
13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.
14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.
15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot
lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode
dust floating in the air.
16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.
17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
hose, etc.)
18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or
put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have
been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,
please do not use metal in any circumstance.
19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
Some information will be included in each file, but look for
whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.
20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't
forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload
or reuse any dud.
22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
doing and leave until it settles.
23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.
24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,
Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't
drop them, or even handle them roughly.
These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one
example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the
good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got
out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the
green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man
got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor
we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these
chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable
of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take
this stuff lightly.
We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite
dangerous. Please read the following information carefully.
Sodium Azide - NaN
3
This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it
gently.
Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO )
3 2
This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will
absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints
and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in
your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless
with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one
afternoon.
Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO
4 3
Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large
quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this
material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it
decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use
it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off
with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here.
Potassium Nitrate - KNO
3
Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals.
It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is,
when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture
burn.
Potassium Potassium
Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen
2KNO ---> 2KNO + O
3 2 2
Potassium Chlorate - KClO
3
A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only
yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic
mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn
more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be
useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like.
Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium
Chlorate is also poisonous.
Potassium Potassium
Chlorate Chloride Oxygen
2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O
3 2
Aluminum Dust
Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a
solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can
seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any
clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an
open flame.
Zinc Dust
Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still
worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled.
Lampblack
This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other
manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures
than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they
stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you
should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using
this.
Sulfur
A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy
this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these
will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself.
Potassium Permanganate
An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here.
Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less
effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just
the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine.
If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up
with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be
thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!!
Gum Arabic
A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful
for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass.
Sodium Peroxide
A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it
touch your skin.
Glycerine
A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get
burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff.
Iodine Crystals
Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses
poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches
and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and
notice the odor, you should leave the area.
Touch Paper
This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is
ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by
soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated
solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have
dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up
to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a
small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary
paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite
gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else.
Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to
make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the
fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained
from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere.
Self Igniting Mixtures
Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an
asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall
onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then
flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is
oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated.
Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to
catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off
some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE
MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I
know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done.
Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn.
This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of
poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine
crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound
and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into
flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is
very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off
by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately
before you plan to use it.
Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium
peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep
Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your
skin, for example.)
Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these
SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of
water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the
quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc.
Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this
mixture.
Percussion Explosives
This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting
possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing
Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT
more sensitive than the ones shown here.
Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be
ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any
pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one
gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a
loud report.
Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above,
Potassium Chlorate 6
Lampblack 4
Sulfur 1
Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only.
Lead Azide Pb(N )
3 2
Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and
others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in
open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny
dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The
same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In
larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it
off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already
mentioned. It is very easy to make.
Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not
to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about
3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it
to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead
Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while
stirring, until no more Lead Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use
it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you
have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You
need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms.
The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water.
It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this
way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it
in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of
an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the
mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the
shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged
between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed
the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make
the filter paper explosive.
Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a
couple of grams at one time.
Reaction Equations
Lead Sodium Lead Sodium
Nitrate Azide Azide Nitrate
Pb(NO ) + 2NaN ---> Pb(N ) + 2NaNO
3 2 3 3 2 3
Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the
water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and
this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff.
Dump it out.
To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of
touch paper in the following shape
-----------------------------
! !
! !
! ---------------
! !
! ---------------
! !
! !
-----------------------------
Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and
the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet
Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry
thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the
very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will
produce a fairly loud explosion.
A Lead Azide Booby Trap
Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A
couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece
depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the
center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z"
should be about one inch long.
-------------------------------------.
.
.
.
--------------------------------------------------
Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z
Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it
unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely
together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2
tries to show what this will look like.
-------------//////////////////-----------------
Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly
Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The
Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut
out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted
portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two
inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure
3.
-------------------------
! !
----------! !-------------------
! !
-------------------------
Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap
You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the
Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by
heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in
the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be
attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation
that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much
Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting
soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope,
and set it off from a distance.
The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead
Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get
set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so
store these separately and keep them padded well.
Getting The Chemicals
As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab
supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when
mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates,
nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind,
and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply
houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the
things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the
multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs
to cover your tracks. DO it!
DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS......

232
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sp.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,232 @@
Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives
This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious
stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you
kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your
body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't
treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.
Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read
'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules
that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about
the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly
before starting anything.
Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable,
and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear
understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of
ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided.
Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following:
1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at
most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for
bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale
pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of
water before weighing the next ingredient.
3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the
workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open
containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage
or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and
replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.
4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
another ingredient.
5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should
also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass
also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an
accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the
top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some
mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in
a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform.
In all cases, point the open end of the container away from
yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any
stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
sparks or static.
Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on
a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them
across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.
6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the
material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
contents down.
7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be
stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an
accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
locked away.
8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber
or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture
caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the
friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any
procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.
9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES.
Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure
lenses and frames are not flammable.
10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there.
They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.
11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.
12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.
13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.
14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.
15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot
lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode
dust floating in the air.
16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.
17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
hose, etc.)
18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or
put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have
been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,
please do not use metal in any circumstance.
19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
Some information will be included in each file, but look for
whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.
20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't
forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload
or reuse any dud.
22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
doing and leave until it settles.
23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.
24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,
Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't
drop them, or even handle them roughly.
These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one
example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the
good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got
out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the
green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man
got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor
we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these
chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable
of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take
this stuff lightly.
We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite
dangerous. Please read the following information carefully.
Sodium Azide - NaN
3
This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it
gently.
Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO )
3 2
This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will
absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints
and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in
your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless
with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one
afternoon.
Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO
4 3
Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large
quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this
material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it
decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use
it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off
with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here.
Potassium Nitrate - KNO
3
Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals.
It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is,
when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture
burn.
Potassium Potassium
Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen
2KNO ---> 2KNO + O
3 2 2
Potassium Chlorate - KClO
3
A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only
yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic
mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn
more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be
useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like.
Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium
Chlorate is also poisonous.
Potassium Potassium
Chlorate Chloride Oxygen
2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O
3 2
Aluminum Dust
Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a
solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can
seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any
clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an
open flame.
Zinc Dust
Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still
worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled.
Lampblack
This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other
manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures
than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they
stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you
should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using
this.
Sulfur
A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy
this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these
will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself.
Potassium Permanganate
An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here.
Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less
effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just
the

18
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sparkler.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,18 @@
Sparkler Bomb
Materials:
* 12-20 sparklers
* duct tape
Procedure:
* Bunch sparlers together so that all ends are even, except one sticking
out of the middle of the pack about 2".
* Cover the whole thing with a lot of duct tape, leaving the middle
sparkler bare as a fuse.
* After lighting the end sparkler, it burns to the others, all igniting
at the same time, causing a decent explosion.
It really works better than it sounds. Maybe you already know about it, but
we'd just thought we'd check.

35
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sparklers.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
Sparkler Bomb
BY
HeD-w0uNd
Items needed:
===== =======
1. Some Sparklers (green work best)
2. Duct Tape or Black Plastic Electrician's Tape (latter is better)
3. Lighter, Matches (How the fuck do you think you're gonna light it)
Procedure:
==========
1. Group some sparklers together. Extend one out to act as a fuse:
------------=====================
------------=====================
------------=====================
------------=====================
2. Wrap the assembly TIGHT with the tape. Leave some of the "fuse"
exposed. The tighter you wrap it, the louder the blast.
3. Light the fuse and run like hell. After a small delay, ignition
will result in a bright flash, loud report, and large amounts
of fucking HOT, flaming sparklers to be scattered in all directions.
HAVE FUN! (And don't blow off you're fucking fingers)

71
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spi-abf1.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,71 @@
Software Pirates Incoporated
"PyroTechny - The Art Of Making Fireworx! Vol.#1"
Well, this month I decide to write a file like everybody else. Since
I don't know much about anarchy, I can write about what I do know. It's not
REAL anarchy but it's pretty interesting. And that's how to build fireworx
making different effects...
To basically start off, the three principle materials employed in this
art are sulpher, charcoal, and saltpetre combined with the fillings of copper,
zinc or steel. Or you could also combine those same three materails with
camphor or resin. Either worx fine and is used adjust the combustion duration,
and the effects of the firework. This next part is basically how to build
rockets....
1. How To Build A Plain Rocket...
The casing of the rocket should be made of stout catridge paper,
rolled on a rod whose thickness should be equal to the desired diameter of
the bore. The rod should be slightly tapering, to allow of it's easy removal
after the case is rolled and pasted. The narrower end of the casse is choked;
that means you should indent a neck in it.
The compostion as stated above should then be rammed tightly into
the casing which is is supported by a closely fitting mould of during this
operation. You should then finidh it off with a small charge of gunpowder
to explode when the rocket goes out. The top of the casing should then be
stopped with clay and a conical cap fastened on. (this is to decrease the
resistance of air while it is in flight.). The bottom or choked end of casing
should be finished with priming and finergain sand paper(touchpaper).
The whole casing should then be attached to the end of a willow stick. Having
a long and straight stick is preferable cause it is this stick that directs
the course of the rocket in the air....
2. Composition For Rockets...
For 2 ounce rockets: Mix 54 1/2 parts nitre [saltpetre], 18 parts sulpher,
and 27 1/4 of charcoal, all in fine grain powder. Sift through lawn.
4 ounce rockets: 64 parts nitre, 16 parts sulpher, and 20 parts charcoal.
For 8 ounce to 1 pound rockets: 64 parts nitre, 15 3/4 parts sulphur, and
21 1/2 partss charcoal.
3. To charge rocket cases...
In charging rocket cases, in order to increase the rapidity of it's
discharge, a wire is sometimes driven into the center of the charge, the
rammer being constructed with a small bore through it's length, to recieve
this wire when ramming the charge. This wire is withdrawn when the charge
is complete, and the space it has left is filled witha quick match, which
then sets fire to the entire charge at once. This central space is called
the "soul" of the rocket, and the adoption of this arangement is neccessary
for large rockets, especially those having heavy pots.
Well, hope that tfile made sense to you guys. Took me a while to
learn that myself when I started off. This tfile hasn't finished yet.
I will release one or two more next month on how to create various colors
and other awesome tricks that will make you the kid to hang with on
July 4th...
ACOUSTiK
[SPi.ACiD]
-EOF;)-

46
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spi-tg.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,46 @@
Software Pirates Incorporated
"Tear Gas"
If you've ever seen a mailman carrying a little red can on his belt
and said to yourself "Gee, what's that red thing on his belt?" Well, its an
irritant to save him from man's best friend; also know as tear gas or in this
case, oleoresin capsicum. Capsicum is the hot essence of red peppers.
Oleoresin is the process for extracting it.
To extract the capsium, grind up four ounces of red pepper seeds in a
blender or with a mortar and pestle. Red pepper seeds can be found at any
grocery store. The dry, ground seeds are then put into a coffee percolator
in which there is about 16 ozs. of alcohol, preferably with the water
distilled out. The seeds are then percolated for about a half hour.
The alcohol is then distilled off until there are only a couple of
tablespoons of red liquid left in the flask. The red liquid is then added to
a half pint of light mineral oil, bought at a drug store.
It can be sprayed from a nasal sprayer, this is a great little sprayer
since no one knows whats inside. It should be shaken before each use.
Just make sure that none of your friends gets the sniffles and borrows it
from you...lets just say he wont be talkin to you for a while.
Formaldehyde is another excellent repellent, and it can easily be
bought at any pharmacy, just tell the guy you're doing a school project
involving the preservation of mice. This stuff smells horrible, hurts the
eyes and nose, and upon exposure to air it vaporizes, make a (class)room
uninhabitable for hours.
It can be squirted from a water gun, nasal inhaler, or vaporized by
a bomb. If this shit gets on someones skin it would feel something like if
their skin was peeling off...what a mess. :)
Comatose [SPi]
"Anarachy Columnist"
SysOp: PMSi
I'd like to say sorry out there to all the people who read this
stuff. I'm currently in India and well... if you were there, I don't think
you'd be able to send T-files over to the US either!

4759
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/spook1.txt Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

216
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sq-0112.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,216 @@
______________
/ ___________ \ __ __ __
/ / _________\_/ {_<> / <20>7 | | <20><> / <20>_
/ /__/ __ ___ \ _ <20>)(_ _<>(_ _)||(_ <20>7
/______/ / / \ \ <20><><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20><>
_________/ /____/ / (SQUIG)
/ _______ _____ / Gives to you:
/ / / / / /
\ \_____/ /____/ / Improved KNO3 + sugar
\______________/ version 1.2
Version 1.2
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
How to read and understand the filename:
SQ-0112.doc
SQ- Identifier... (SQ is short for Squig)
01 Textnr. in HEX ie. 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F 10
12 Versionnr. also this in HEX. (12 means 1.2)
.doc Tells you that this is a document.
Introduction
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
This is a low-order explosive that is easily made from
household chemicals, but it doesn't mean that it's
harmeless. The only dangerous stage is the manufacture,
but if you follow my hints and tips it will be relatively
safe.
Two of my friends tried once to produce this 'explosive'
when I just had discovered it a couple of years ago.
They didn't understand exactly when I told them to do.
So they cooked all the wather away and it almost melted
their micro, and somehow they managed to get it out but
then dropped it and got a real black nasty stain on their
floor, luckily nothing worse happened and nobody got hurt.
Ok, but I will tell you how to do, and remember, you're
doing this on your own risc!
HINT: Read it all through before you start.
Improved KNO3 + sugar by Squig
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
Hardware you need:
cooking pan, frying pan or a tin can
heat source
bakingsheet
spoon
[ thick alumineum foil ]
Chemicals you need:
All measured by weight.
5 parts sugar (ordinary white sugar)
6 parts potassium nitrate (also known as salt peter)
could be bought from any standard shop in Sweden
as 'salpeter' or 'kalisalpeter' (Swedish)
[1/2 parts ferrum oxide (rust) ]
wather (any clear wather)
Procedure:
(1) Mix the KNO3 and sugar well (it should be white,
if not, you have done something REALLY wrong,
you better go and play some videogames)
(2) Add the powder to the wather, everything should
be solved. (It should be in the pan now)
HINT: Start with a small amount of wather, when
nothing more will be solved, add some more.
(3) Let it boil and stir ie. every 5 minutes until
skin is forming on the surface.
Then stir once, if the skin reforms in less
than a second it's ready.
HINT: Be careful so nothing comes on the
hot heatsource, cause then it will
start burning.
You can let it cook until it's a sticky syrup,
but I usually do like this.
(4) If you let it continue to boil then add the
rust now (if you want to)
(5) Pour the liquid (semi-liquid atleast) on the
baking sheet (preferrably om alumineum foil)
(6) Let the wather evaporate, 'stir' 2 times every
day until it's totally dry.
(7) Put it in a mortar and smash it to a fine powder.
It has never reacted on friction for me, so I
suppose it's not so dangerous now.
(8) If you haven't added the rust (and still want to)
do it now.
(9) It should be ready to use now. (see later in doc
for examples)
Uses (bombs and fireworks)
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
Simple firecracker:
Just take a plastic or paper container and fill it with
your newly made powder. If your doing a _small_ firecracker
you can just insert a fuse in one end ond pour som glue
that woun't dissolve the fuse to seal the container.
If you're doing something bigger, make a hole in the
box (tube or wathever you wish) and insert the fuse before
you fill it. see diagram below:
SIMPLE FIRECRACKER DIAGRAM 1
|*GLUE*I
I%%%%%%I
IPOWDERI
I%%%%%%I
I%%%%%%---------- FUSE
I%%%%%%I
I%%%%%%I
I%%%%%%I
I******I
Simple firecracker 2:
Take a small container with a lid which can easily be
'popped' off, thus NO lid that you'll have to screw off!
(preferrably the one you store films for cameras in)
Make a small hole with a needle cloose to the bottom with
a needle. If your fuse doesn't fit just make the hole
bigger with a ballpoint pen.
Now, insert the fuse, atleast 1 or 2 cm of the fuse must
be inside the container.
Mixture:
3 parts coal.
4 parts fine crushed KNO3-sugar mixture.
1 part KNO3-sugar grains. (See 'Smoke corridors' if
you already have grinded all you mix.)
Just mix it all together and put it in the container,
and it will burn well, even if you only fill half the
tin. (container)
This one is great scaring people with =) Just put it
somewhere there nobody will expect it. And ofcource,
don't put it anywhere it can start a fire because
first the lid will pop off, then it will smoke a lot
and emit hot sparks. And if you use a small light
container it will certainly NOT stay in the same place
for very long. So be careful!
Rocket engines:
Mix your powder with some coal to make it burn slower.
Take a carboard tube and seal one end (however you want)
Mix some powder with a small amount of alcohol so it
become a (sticky) paste and fill the tube with it.
It should be quite compact. Insert a fuse (and glue it
in place if necessary). Let it dry.
Put the thing on a stick (you now how a rocket i built)
Light the fuse, and if you're lucky it might fly away.
Smoke corridors:
If you're just going to use it as a smoker, don't mash
the powder. And if you've alreade done so, just mix it
with a SMALL amount of wather so it will become a bit
sticky. Then let it dry.
And add any rust, 'cause the rust makes the smoke smell
like wather (a bit like oxygene too) and the smoke
disappear much faster. Not much else to say.
Smelly smoke:
Mix the powder with a small amount of butter (with extra
salt) A bit inspiration from The Library, see end of doc.
You could also take a small amount of iodine chrystals,
you should get a purple smoke, which is not very healthy.
You could do alot with this, just use your imagination.
Excuses
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
Sorry 'bout my rather bad English and selection of words,
but I'm quite young and havn't studied English for so
many years.
And I'm not a chemestry genius, but I find it entertaing
with pyrotechnics and explosives =)
I hope there isn't any errors in this texfile and hope
you find it entertaining. (Also hope you don't kill or
hurt yourself or anybody else)
You probably find this textfile very 'basic' but I don't
want any misunderstandings, and those silly hints, I only
write them in case you should suffer from a blackout or
just didn't think of them.
Duh, couldn't figure out an aproative headline
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
How it works (I think atleast):
The sugar burns (you can test it yourself) and extracts
oxygene from the salt peter (it is KNO3 and O=Oxygene if
you didn't know)
The End
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
Some greets to people I admire:
Thallion and The Effacer of Swedish Infomania, HeXOr
And some I know:
Josh / TwD, Ajax / TwD, Parch / X-Trade
Not many, ehh..
Recomended reading:
The Library by Swdish Infomania (Swedish)
Advancerad kemi and (Swedish)
Svensk Standard by HeXOr (Swedish)
Phone:
Synchron City.. +46(0)431-17506
TwD BBS.. +46(0)63-31108
'Bugs come in through open windows'
EOF

113
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sq-lunch.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,113 @@
______________
/ ___________ \ __ __ __
/ / _________\_/ {_<> / <20>7 | | <20><> / <20>_
/ /__/ __ ___ \ _ <20>)(_ _<>(_ _)||(_ <20>7
/______/ / / \ \ <20><><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20><>
_________/ /____/ / (SQUIG)
/ _______ _____ / Gives to you:
/ / / / / /
\ \_____/ /____/ / Build yer own rocketlauncher
\______________/ version 1.0
This is probably not the best rocketlauncher ever made,
but I hope it will work properly and don't blow you
apart. =)
You need:
Big pipe, anykind of pipe you find suitable.
preferrably plastic but drainpipe might work.
Pipe cap that fits the pipe very good.
Tiny vent that fits your gas can. (lighter)
Alot of gas cans that fits your vent. (alround gas
for lighters)
Spark plug.
Battery to the spark plug.
Switch, the kind that pops back when you release it.
Cables.
Strong tape.
Something to fire with the same diameter as the pipe.
(that fits exactly in the pipe!)
[Something small that stops the projectile from sliding]
[ over to the end of the pipe. ]
Drill with two drills, one the same diameter as the vent
and the other as the spark plug.
Epoxy glue.
About the pipe
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
* It should be quite thick so it woun't break.
* It should still be light enough to carry. (and aim)
* It should not be to wide, becuse it will take longer time
to reload. I think 5 cm would be good.
* It shold not be to short, atleast 1 meter.
* The ammo must fit very tightly in the pipe.
The construction
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
First, take the pipe and drill two holes in it, one for the
vent and the other for the spark plug. I think it would be best
if you put the refill hole (vent) on the top within 5 cm of
the back edge, and the spark plug hole on the pipe cap.
Screw the cap on the pipe and glue so it will stay in place.
Put the spark plug in the hole you made for it and glue well
with epoxy. Mount the vent in its hole.
Make the following circuit:
---
I _
I +-----------o------ (+)
<==I
| +------------------ (-)
|
---
<==I Spark plug mounted in pipe
- or + Cable
(+) and (-) Battery poles
_
--o-- Switch
You can attach the electronics to the pipe with some tape.
Let the glue dry.
Now you can try it by filling it with some gas and then
pressing your button and the gas should go <POFF!>
(Swedish sound) and you can see some flames (don't put your
face above the nozzle when firing)
If you want to, you can attach a small plastic or metal piece
inside the pipe that prevents the ammo from blocking the vent.
VENT
-------------------------O--
II I
I SPARK PLUG
<==I
I
I
----------------------------
You can also make grips on the pipe or something else that
stops it from flying away when fired. =)
This file is not one of my most serious!
The End
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
Some greets to people I admire:
Thallion and The Effacer of Infomania, HeXOr
And some I know:
Josh / TwD, Parch / X-Trade
Not many, ehh..
Recomended reading:
The Library by Infomania (Swedish)
Advancerad kemi by HeXOr (Swedish)
The Jolly Rogers cookbook by The Jolly Roger
Phone:
Synchron City.. Good BBS
TwD BBS.. +46(0)63-31108.. Good normal BBS
EOF

207
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sr1.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,207 @@
----------------------
-- --
-- How to make --
-- Sugar Rockets --
-- --
--Written & Typed by--
-- Cloaked Warrior --
-- --
----------------------
Combine these 3 substances in the following proportions by weight:
Potassium Nitrate.......63%
Sugar...................27%
Sulfur..................10%
(you can by this stuff at the drug store)
Note: use a diet scale or a gun reloading scale to measure the ingredients
What to do with the chemicals
-----------------------------
Put the 3 combined chemicals into a plastic refrigerator container with a very
tight lid (use a soft margarine container). Now be sure that the lid is on
TIGHT. Shake the container for about three minutes. You just made the rocket
propellant! This should be a yellowish powder...
Making the Casing(s)
-------------------
Items needed:
2 inch wide gummed, brown paper packaging tape
Scotch tape
1 foot length of 1/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel
single edged razor blade
wet sponge
Cover the hardwood dowel with several strips of Scotch tape (layed lengthwise
onto the dowel). Now cut a strip of gummed paper packaging tape (8 in. long)
and lay it, gummed side DOWN, on a flat surface. Dampen all but the last inch
of the back of the tape with a wet sponge. Turn the tape over and start at the
dampened end, start rolling it up around the Scotch-tape-covered dowel. After
having one layer of tape around the dowel, moisten the GUMMED side of the rest
of the tape and roll it up around the dowel as tightly as possible.
Problem(s):
Many times the paper tape will start to run off to one side or the other. You
can correct it like this (example-run off to the LEFT):
Use a single edged razor blade to the unrolled portion of the tape right next
to the roll. Start the slit at the LEFT edge of the tape and cut across the
tape to within 1/4/ of an inch of the RIGHT edge. Once the tape has been
partially cut, pull it to the RIGHT and correct the mistake. (Or vice-versa)
LAST STEP IN MAKING THE CASING: when done rolling a casing, hold the last edge
of the tape against a flat surface for a few moments; then slide the casing off
the dowel and ALLOW IT TO DRY...you can also bake the casing(s) in your kitchen
oven at 160 degrees (F) for about 30 minutes...
Making the Nozzles
------------------
Items needed:
Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty
Epoxy Glue (part A and part B)
'Six Penny' (3/32") Ungalvanized finishing nails
(quantity: amount of casings made)
one length of 1/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel
a 7/64 inch diameter drill bit
a 1/8 inch diameter drill bit
'Six Penny' finishing nails are about 3/32 inch in diameter. You will now make
the core of your rocket(s). Instead of using finishing nails you may use piano
wire that have the same diameter. You must pack the propellant down around the
finishing nails or piano wire., then removing it when you're finished.
Problem(s):
The finishing nails have a little row of grooves right near the head. This
will cause problems as you pull the finished rockets of the nail, so piano
wire is prefered.
The nozzle is made of the putty. To one you are first going to form a little
1/4 inch long plug of putty in one end of each casing. You MUST only form a
1/4 inch long plug of putty otherwise...
We are now going to tell you how to make a gauge (in case you use too much
putty or too little than required). Cut off a six inch length of the 1/4 inch
hardwood dowel that you bought to use the casing with. Wrap about a dozen
layers of masking tape around it so that one edge of the masking tape is
EXACTLY 1-3/4 inches from one end of the dowel. Slide a casing over the dowel
and run the end of it up against this edge of the tape. If you look in the
open end of the casing, you will see a cavity exactly 1/4 of an inch deep.
Pack this cavity full of putty (not yet).
Mix the putty with water in a small tuna can to the appproximate consistency
of stiff bread dough. You can pack each cavity by simply pressing a wad of
putty into the end of the casing with your finger and wiping the excess of with
your thumb. Try to avoid creating air pockets or bubbles. After your done
with this, SLOWLY remove the dowel depth gauge. Then let it sit to dry for
a day or lay them on a cookie cheet in the oven and heat them at 140-160
degrees (F), depending on how many you made, for an hour to an hour and 30 min.
After the putty is hard and dry, drill a 7/64 inch diameter hole completely
through the center of each putty plug. If I were you, I would use a power
drill. But a hand drill is okay if you are careful and patient.
Now I will show you how to make a jig to hold the casings upright so drilling
a hole in each putty plug won't be a tough job. Get a thick block of wood and
drill 3/8 inch diameter holes in it and stand the casings, putty ends UP, in
the holes in the block. Mount your 7/64 inch drill bit in your drill press,
and start drillin' a hole in each putty plug. Get each hole well entered, so
work CAREFULLY.
Loading the Propellant
----------------------
The sugar rocket that you are making are core-burners. To make a core-burner,
simply pack the propellant down around a dowel or mandrel. When the mandrel
is removed, it leaves behind a hollow core. The mandrel I used was a short
length of 3/32 inch diameter piano wire (well you can use a finishing nail or
piano wire). The core has to be about 1-1/4 inch long. The core starts at the
inside edge of the nozzle plug and extends to the inside edge of the forward
bulkhead plug. The nozzle plug is 1/4 of an inch thick, so the mandrel should
be 1-1/2 inch long. To make a mandrel, use a small hammer to pound on a six
penny finishing nail into a block of wood. Then use a pair of wire cutters to
snip it off to a length of exactly 1-1/2 inches. If you are using piano wire
and not finishing nails then do this:
Drill a 3/32 inch diameter hole in the block. Roughen up one end of the wire
with sandpaper or a file and glue the roughen end of the wire into the hole
in block with epoxy glue. When the glue is completely hard, grind the wire
to length with a grinding wheel.
X = Quanity of
If you made X rockets, make X mandrels on ONE block of wood (or a few blocks
if you made about 100 rockets). To use this, set each rocket casing, drilled
end DOWN, over each mandrel (you're ready to load them).
LOADING THE ROCKETS:
Step One
--------
To load the propellant, you must pack it down around the mandrel(s), so the
tamp that you use must have a hole drilled right in its center and deeper than
the length of the madrel wire inside the paper casing. Here is how to make the
tamp. Cut a 4 inch length of 1/4 inch hardwood dowel, sand the ends square,
stand it upright under the drill press, and drill a 1/8 inch diameter hole
right down the center of the dowel to a depth of 1-1/2 inches. You can also
use a brass or aluminum rod to make a nicer tamp instead of using the dowel.
But DO NOT USE STEEL! It is for your safety.
Note: If you have access to a machine lathe, the job will be much easier...
Step Two
--------
Next, make a paper funnel and place it over the open rocket casing, and fill it
with about 1/8 teaspoon of sugar-based rocket propellant. Use a small stick or
wire and poke it down into casing. Remove the funnel and insert the tamp you
made (drilled end DOWN) into the end of the casing. Pack the propellant down
around the wire mandrel by striking the tamp with a small hammer. Repeat this
step (3) until the tamped powder reaches the top of the mandrel. Wad up some
tissue paper, or paper towel, and pound it in on top of the powder. This
plug keeps the epoxy glue used to plug the front of the rocket from running
down and sticking to the madrel. Once the tissue plug is in place, fill the
rest of the casing with epoxy glue. After it has hardened, twist and pull
each rocket casing off of the mandrel.
Priming and Firing
------------------
Go to a gun shop and buy a can of FFFF Fine black powder.
Priming the Rocket(s)
---------------------
To prime or fuse one these rockets stand it on end, nozzle-UP, and use a small
paper trough to fill the entire core hole up to the top with the black powder
you bought. Now you must cap it. Put about a teaspoon of the powder into a
jar and add water a few drops at a time, stirring with a stick as you go, until
the mixture is about the consistency of toothpaste. Then you take a small dab
of this powder paste on the tip of your finger and smear it over the nozzle
hole of the rocket that you just fused (primed). Make sure that the hole is
completely covered. Now just set the rocket(s) aside to allow the paste (cap)
to dry for about 30 minutes or so.
Firing the Rocket(s)
--------------------
The easiest way to launch the rocket(s) is to glue it onto a guide stick. You
can use hibachi sticks or shish kabob skewers. You can use a drop of instant
cyanoacrylate model cement or just use white glue and masking tape to glue on
the sticks. To ignite the rocket(s), you can use an electric igniter or just
tape a filament of wire from a piece of coarse steel wool over the priming cap,
attach each end to an electrical lead or alligater clips. Attach leads to a
strong battery (6-9 volts or a car battery), and fire by closing a switch to
complete the circuit. The current will make the steel wool wire glow red hot,
causing it to burn and ignite the priming cap...
How 'bout an Option:
A slow lift off: Prime or fuse with pyrodex or don't fill the core all the way
to the top with black powder. Put a little in....
DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS 304-744-2253

120
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sr2.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,120 @@
-------------------
-- --
--Cloaked Warrior--
-- --
--P r e s e n t s--
Improving your Rocket
-- --
-----------------
Cloaked Warrior
Be sure that you have read the file 'How to Make Sugar Rockets' before reading
this file. This file is actually Part II of that File....
------------
ENHANCEMENTS
------------
Time Delays & Special Effects
-----------------------------
In order to provide room for time delays (et cetera), you will need a longer
rocket casing. So go out to the store again and buy wider brown packaging tape
(3 in. instead of 2 in.). But the thing is that this type of tape is not sold
in most stores, so go look in a phone book for large paper suppliers that sell
packaging supplies. To make a rocket casing with a time delay, you just have
to follow the instructions in Part I (How to Make Sugar Rockets) except (there
are some changes):
1> Use the 3 in. packaging tape to make a 3 in. casing.
2> When loading the propellant, instead of stopping at the top of the mandrel,
continue working, using the flat, undrilled end of the tamp, and pack an
extra 1/2 inch of propellant in on top of the mandrel.
3> You will need to form a tiny hole through the epoxy glue plug, to do this,
(after packing the propellant) stick a large sewing needle into the
propellant right at the edge of the rocket casing, you then press it into
the delay powder to a depth of 1/8 of an inch, now firmly pack in your wad
of tissue paper or paper towel and then pour in the front plug of epoxy.
4> After the glue dries and hardens, use a pair of small pliers to twist and
pull the needle out of the epoxy, leaving a tiny pin-hole through the plug.
Now you're all ready to go...
Making a 'Pop' sound and smoke
------------------------------
To make a 'pop' and some smoke at the end of the rocket's flight is easy.
All you have to do is fill up the pin hole with black powder or Pyrodex powder
and add another 1/19 of a gram (1/2 as much as you used to prime the rocket).
Press in a another wad of tissue paper (or towel) and pour another epoxy cap on
top of that. When the falme inside the rocket reaches the front of the time
delay powder, it will flash through the pin hole and ignite the powder. This
is how to make a fire cracker like 'pop' and a puff of smoke at the end of its
flight. Making the flames a certain color is also desirable. Well, it is very
simple. If you want a green flame when it is lauched, this is what you do:
Go out and buy some Copper Sulfate (powder). Then you glue the powder on
to the rocket casing(s) at the ends all the way around. Use Elmer's glue to
do this. And that's it! When the rocket is ignited, it will be launched as
the Copper Sulfate burns (Elmer's glue melts), causing green flames. You may
use other chemicals to produce different colors. But be sure to use the slow
lift-off option that was explained in the Part I (so that you can observe it).
Making a Nose Cone for better Performance
-----------------------------------------
To make your rocket(s) fly better, you will need to make a nose cone. Make
something like a witch's hat out of paper and masking tape and glue it onto
the nose of each rocket. This should not require any assistance (I assume
that you must know how to make a nose cone. It shaped like a funnel.)
Using the Time Delay to Pop a Parachute
---------------------------------------
To pop a parachute, fill the pin hole with black powder and add a very SMALL
amount of powder on top of this. Then cut a disk of stiff paper from a
3 x 5 inch file card about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, and using on end of
your powder tamp, press the paper disk into the nose of the rocket on top of
the loose powder (be sure that you have not made a nose cone and have glued
it onto the rocket).
Second Stage Rocket
-------------------
If you want to have your rocket ignite a second stage, then use a single edged
razor blade to cut the excess length of the cassing off right at front of the
front plug. Then fill the pin-hole with loose powder and cap the FRONT of the
rocket with the powder ppaste just as you did to the back end when priming it
for firing. Make sure the front of the rocket is marked, once te ends are
capped, you won't be able to tell which end is which. When igniting a second
stage, place the priming cap of the second stage engine in contact with the
front end cap or first stage motor. When the flame in the first stage motor
reaches the front of the time delay powder, it will ignite the cap at its
front, which in turn will light the priming cap of the second stage engine.
Making a Second Stage Stick Rocket
----------------------------------
When you make a second stage stick rocket, you will need a longer stick to
balance the extra weight and you will have to connect the two stages so that
the second stage can slide easily away from the first after the first is spent.
Wrap a single layer of paper tape around the fron of the booster engine (first
stage motor), so that the tape is glued to the front of the booster but sticks
1/2 an inch out in from of the finished, capped engine. After the glue dries,
you can slide the tail of the second stage into this paper sleeve off the first
until the priming cap of the second stage mmotor touches the front cap of the
first. Glue or tape the longer guide stick to the second stage engine, leaving
the first stage engine and its paper sleeve free. (Note: This two stage stick
rocket is 2 rocket casings connected to a longer stick. This is an easier
explaination.)
Substitutions & Misc.
---------------------
You can mix white baking flour with epoxy glue if you cannot get the water
putty. Instead of getting flowers of sulfur, you can get dusting sulfur at
a nursery or fertilizer supplier. Dusting sulfur will result in a better
rocket. Never put the 3 chemicals (sulfur, saltpetre, and sugar) in a blender,
if you do, you'll get a real big kick out of it...
DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS 304-744-2253

213
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/srocket1.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,213 @@
----------------------
-- --
-- How to make --
-- Sugar Rockets --
-- --
--Written & Typed by--
-- Cloaked Warrior --
-- --
----------------------
Combine these 3 substances in the following proportions by weight:
Potassium Nitrate.......63%
Sugar...................27%
Sulfur..................10%
(you can by this stuff at the drug store)
Note: use a diet scale or a gun reloading scale to measure the ingredients
What to do with the chemicals
-----------------------------
Put the 3 combined chemicals into a plastic refrigerator container with a very
tight lid (use a soft margarine container). Now be sure that the lid is on
TIGHT. Shake the container for about three minutes. You just made the rocket
propellant! This should be a yellowish powder...
Making the Casing(s)
-------------------
Items needed:
2 inch wide gummed, brown paper packaging tape
Scotch tape
1 foot length of 1/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel
single edged razor blade
wet sponge
Cover the hardwood dowel with several strips of Scotch tape (layed lengthwise
onto the dowel). Now cut a strip of gummed paper packaging tape (8 in. long)
and lay it, gummed side DOWN, on a flat surface. Dampen all but the last inch
of the back of the tape with a wet sponge. Turn the tape over and start at the
dampened end, start rolling it up around the Scotch-tape-covered dowel. After
having one layer of tape around the dowel, moisten the GUMMED side of the rest
of the tape and roll it up around the dowel as tightly as possible.
Problem(s):
Many times the paper tape will start to run off to one side or the other. You
can correct it like this (example-run off to the LEFT):
Use a single edged razor blade to the unrolled portion of the tape right next
to the roll. Start the slit at the LEFT edge of the tape and cut across the
tape to within 1/4/ of an inch of the RIGHT edge. Once the tape has been
partially cut, pull it to the RIGHT and correct the mistake. (Or vice-versa)
LAST STEP IN MAKING THE CASING: when done rolling a casing, hold the last edge
of the tape against a flat surface for a few moments; then slide the casing off
the dowel and ALLOW IT TO DRY...you can also bake the casing(s) in your kitchen
oven at 160 degrees (F) for about 30 minutes...
Making the Nozzles
------------------
Items needed:
Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty
Epoxy Glue (part A and part B)
'Six Penny' (3/32") Ungalvanized finishing nails
(quantity: amount of casings made)
one length of 1/4 inch diameter hardwood dowel
a 7/64 inch diameter drill bit
a 1/8 inch diameter drill bit
'Six Penny' finishing nails are about 3/32 inch in diameter. You will now make
the core of your rocket(s). Instead of using finishing nails you may use piano
wire that have the same diameter. You must pack the propellant down around the
finishing nails or piano wire., then removing it when you're finished.
Problem(s):
The finishing nails have a little row of grooves right near the head. This
will cause problems as you pull the finished rockets of the nail, so piano
wire is prefered.
The nozzle is made of the putty. To one you are first going to form a little
1/4 inch long plug of putty in one end of each casing. You MUST only form a
1/4 inch long plug of putty otherwise...
We are now going to tell you how to make a gauge (in case you use too much
putty or too little than required). Cut off a six inch length of the 1/4 inch
hardwood dowel that you bought to use the casing with. Wrap about a dozen
layers of masking tape around it so that one edge of the masking tape is
EXACTLY 1-3/4 inches from one end of the dowel. Slide a casing over the dowel
and run the end of it up against this edge of the tape. If you look in the
open end of the casing, you will see a cavity exactly 1/4 of an inch deep.
Pack this cavity full of putty (not yet).
Mix the putty with water in a small tuna can to the appproximate consistency
of stiff bread dough. You can pack each cavity by simply pressing a wad of
putty into the end of the casing with your finger and wiping the excess of with
your thumb. Try to avoid creating air pockets or bubbles. After your done
with this, SLOWLY remove the dowel depth gauge. Then let it sit to dry for
a day or lay them on a cookie cheet in the oven and heat them at 140-160
degrees (F), depending on how many you made, for an hour to an hour and 30 min.
After the putty is hard and dry, drill a 7/64 inch diameter hole completely
through the center of each putty plug. If I were you, I would use a power
drill. But a hand drill is okay if you are careful and patient.
Now I will show you how to make a jig to hold the casings upright so drilling
a hole in each putty plug won't be a tough job. Get a thick block of wood and
drill 3/8 inch diameter holes in it and stand the casings, putty ends UP, in
the holes in the block. Mount your 7/64 inch drill bit in your drill press,
and start drillin' a hole in each putty plug. Get each hole well entered, so
work CAREFULLY.
Loading the Propellant
----------------------
The sugar rocket that you are making are core-burners. To make a core-burner,
simply pack the propellant down around a dowel or mandrel. When the mandrel
is removed, it leaves behind a hollow core. The mandrel I used was a short
length of 3/32 inch diameter piano wire (well you can use a finishing nail or
piano wire). The core has to be about 1-1/4 inch long. The core starts at the
inside edge of the nozzle plug and extends to the inside edge of the forward
bulkhead plug. The nozzle plug is 1/4 of an inch thick, so the mandrel should
be 1-1/2 inch long. To make a mandrel, use a small hammer to pound on a six
penny finishing nail into a block of wood. Then use a pair of wire cutters to
snip it off to a length of exactly 1-1/2 inches. If you are using piano wire
and not finishing nails then do this:
Drill a 3/32 inch diameter hole in the block. Roughen up one end of the wire
with sandpaper or a file and glue the roughen end of the wire into the hole
in block with epoxy glue. When the glue is completely hard, grind the wire
to length with a grinding wheel.
X = Quanity of
If you made X rockets, make X mandrels on ONE block of wood (or a few blocks
if you made about 100 rockets). To use this, set each rocket casing, drilled
end DOWN, over each mandrel (you're ready to load them).
LOADING THE ROCKETS:
Step One
--------
To load the propellant, you must pack it down around the mandrel(s), so the
tamp that you use must have a hole drilled right in its center and deeper than
the length of the madrel wire inside the paper casing. Here is how to make the
tamp. Cut a 4 inch length of 1/4 inch hardwood dowel, sand the ends square,
stand it upright under the drill press, and drill a 1/8 inch diameter hole
right down the center of the dowel to a depth of 1-1/2 inches. You can also
use a brass or aluminum rod to make a nicer tamp instead of using the dowel.
But DO NOT USE STEEL! It is for your safety.
Note: If you have access to a machine lathe, the job will be much easier...
Step Two
--------
Next, make a paper funnel and place it over the open rocket casing, and fill it
with about 1/8 teaspoon of sugar-based rocket propellant. Use a small stick or
wire and poke it down into casing. Remove the funnel and insert the tamp you
made (drilled end DOWN) into the end of the casing. Pack the propellant down
around the wire mandrel by striking the tamp with a small hammer. Repeat this
step (3) until the tamped powder reaches the top of the mandrel. Wad up some
tissue paper, or paper towel, and pound it in on top of the powder. This
plug keeps the epoxy glue used to plug the front of the rocket from running
down and sticking to the madrel. Once the tissue plug is in place, fill the
rest of the casing with epoxy glue. After it has hardened, twist and pull
each rocket casing off of the mandrel.
Priming and Firing
------------------
Go to a gun shop and buy a can of FFFF Fine black powder.
Priming the Rocket(s)
---------------------
To prime or fuse one these rockets stand it on end, nozzle-UP, and use a small
paper trough to fill the entire core hole up to the top with the black powder
you bought. Now you must cap it. Put about a teaspoon of the powder into a
jar and add water a few drops at a time, stirring with a stick as you go, until
the mixture is about the consistency of toothpaste. Then you take a small dab
of this powder paste on the tip of your finger and smear it over the nozzle
hole of the rocket that you just fused (primed). Make sure that the hole is
completely covered. Now just set the rocket(s) aside to allow the paste (cap)
to dry for about 30 minutes or so.
Firing the Rocket(s)
--------------------
The easiest way to launch the rocket(s) is to glue it onto a guide stick. You
can use hibachi sticks or shish kabob skewers. You can use a drop of instant
cyanoacrylate model cement or just use white glue and masking tape to glue on
the sticks. To ignite the rocket(s), you can use an electric igniter or just
tape a filament of wire from a piece of coarse steel wool over the priming cap,
attach each end to an electrical lead or alligater clips. Attach leads to a
strong battery (6-9 volts or a car battery), and fire by closing a switch to
complete the circuit. The current will make the steel wool wire glow red hot,
causing it to burn and ignite the priming cap...
How 'bout an Option:
A slow lift off: Prime or fuse with pyrodex or don't fill the core all the way
to the top with black powder. Put a little in....
Have fun! This text file was written and typed by Cloaked Warrior...
August 4, 1986 2:25 (pacific)....Watch for 'Improving your Socket'
Coming soon to AE near you!

128
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/srocket2.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,128 @@
-------------------
-- --
--Cloaked Warrior--
-- --
--P r e s e n t s--
Improving your Rocket
-- --
-----------------
Cloaked Warrior '86!
This text file was written on an Apple ][e with 192K and in 80-col. August 8,
1986 9:00 PM (pacific). Be sure that you have read the file 'How to Make Sugar
Rockets' before reading this file. This file is actually Part II of that
File....
------------
ENHANCEMENTS
------------
Time Delays & Special Effects
-----------------------------
In order to provide room for time delays (et cetera), you will need a longer
rocket casing. So go out to the store again and buy wider brown packaging tape
(3 in. instead of 2 in.). But the thing is that this type of tape is not sold
in most stores, so go look in a phone book for large paper suppliers that sell
packaging supplies. To make a rocket casing with a time delay, you just have
to follow the instructions in Part I (How to Make Sugar Rockets) except (there
are some changes):
1> Use the 3 in. packaging tape to make a 3 in. casing.
2> When loading the propellant, instead of stopping at the top of the mandrel,
continue working, using the flat, undrilled end of the tamp, and pack an
extra 1/2 inch of propellant in on top of the mandrel.
3> You will need to form a tiny hole through the epoxy glue plug, to do this,
(after packing the propellant) stick a large sewing needle into the
propellant right at the edge of the rocket casing, you then press it into
the delay powder to a depth of 1/8 of an inch, now firmly pack in your wad
of tissue paper or paper towel and then pour in the front plug of epoxy.
4> After the glue dries and hardens, use a pair of small pliers to twist and
pull the needle out of the epoxy, leaving a tiny pin-hole through the plug.
Now you're all ready to go...
Making a 'Pop' sound and smoke
------------------------------
To make a 'pop' and some smoke at the end of the rocket's flight is easy.
All you have to do is fill up the pin hole with black powder or Pyrodex powder
and add another 1/19 of a gram (1/2 as much as you used to prime the rocket).
Press in a another wad of tissue paper (or towel) and pour another epoxy cap on
top of that. When the falme inside the rocket reaches the front of the time
delay powder, it will flash through the pin hole and ignite the powder. This
is how to make a fire cracker like 'pop' and a puff of smoke at the end of its
flight. Making the flames a certain color is also desirable. Well, it is very
simple. If you want a green flame when it is lauched, this is what you do:
Go out and buy some Copper Sulfate (powder). Then you glue the powder on
to the rocket casing(s) at the ends all the way around. Use Elmer's glue to
do this. And that's it! When the rocket is ignited, it will be launched as
the Copper Sulfate burns (Elmer's glue melts), causing green flames. You may
use other chemicals to produce different colors. But be sure to use the slow
lift-off option that was explained in the Part I (so that you can observe it).
Making a Nose Cone for better Performance
-----------------------------------------
To make your rocket(s) fly better, you will need to make a nose cone. Make
something like a witch's hat out of paper and masking tape and glue it onto
the nose of each rocket. This should not require any assistance (I assume
that you must know how to make a nose cone. It shaped like a funnel.)
Using the Time Delay to Pop a Parachute
---------------------------------------
To pop a parachute, fill the pin hole with black powder and add a very SMALL
amount of powder on top of this. Then cut a disk of stiff paper from a
3 x 5 inch file card about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, and using on end of
your powder tamp, press the paper disk into the nose of the rocket on top of
the loose powder (be sure that you have not made a nose cone and have glued
it onto the rocket).
Second Stage Rocket
-------------------
If you want to have your rocket ignite a second stage, then use a single edged
razor blade to cut the excess length of the cassing off right at front of the
front plug. Then fill the pin-hole with loose powder and cap the FRONT of the
rocket with the powder ppaste just as you did to the back end when priming it
for firing. Make sure the front of the rocket is marked, once te ends are
capped, you won't be able to tell which end is which. When igniting a second
stage, place the priming cap of the second stage engine in contact with the
front end cap or first stage motor. When the flame in the first stage motor
reaches the front of the time delay powder, it will ignite the cap at its
front, which in turn will light the priming cap of the second stage engine.
Making a Second Stage Stick Rocket
----------------------------------
When you make a second stage stick rocket, you will need a longer stick to
balance the extra weight and you will have to connect the two stages so that
the second stage can slide easily away from the first after the first is spent.
Wrap a single layer of paper tape around the fron of the booster engine (first
stage motor), so that the tape is glued to the front of the booster but sticks
1/2 an inch out in from of the finished, capped engine. After the glue dries,
you can slide the tail of the second stage into this paper sleeve off the first
until the priming cap of the second stage mmotor touches the front cap of the
first. Glue or tape the longer guide stick to the second stage engine, leaving
the first stage engine and its paper sleeve free. (Note: This two stage stick
rocket is 2 rocket casings connected to a longer stick. This is an easier
explaination.)
Substitutions & Misc.
---------------------
You can mix white baking flour with epoxy glue if you cannot get the water
putty. Instead of getting flowers of sulfur, you can get dusting sulfur at
a nursery or fertilizer supplier. Dusting sulfur will result in a better
rocket. Never put the 3 chemicals (sulfur, saltpetre, and sugar) in a blender,
if you do, you'll get a real big kick out of it...
Well, good luck and look out for more files in the future...
Cloaked Warrior '86...

565
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/star.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,565 @@
This file was originally intended for teachers of chemistry as a short
introduction to pyrochemical demonstrations. However, the compositions and
the methods of preparation are indeed general, and the stars prepared here
can be used for most pyrotechnical applications, including starmines and
bombshells.
Enjoy.
Pyrochemical reactions in chemical education - Part I:
Coloured smokes, coloured flames and sparklers
A. Introduction
As an assistant leader of our chemistry club, I've often been asked to
perform some chemistry magic tricks before the audience. I know from
personal experience that probably the most interesting demonstrations
are those demonstrating the true magic of chemistry - that is, chemical
reactions. Those who have a fume cupboard (hood) for demonstration
purposes can broaden their spectrum of useful demonstrations by including
the most beautiful effects known to mankind to their demonstration sets -
namely, pyrochemical reactions.
Many demonstration manuals (notably Shakhashiri's Chemical Demonstrations)
include several reasonably safe "flash'n'boom" demonstrations. However,
while these demonstrations are relatively easy to perform and do not
require any special equipment, they still fail quite often and unexpectedly.
This is often due to high sensitivity of the compositions, which prevents
the demonstrators from making accurate preparations.
The thermite demonstration looks great, but it is usually performed in a very large scale. If you haven't tried it before, or if you change anything, try
it first (preferably outside) without any audience before performing it live.
Also, make sure it will go off when you want it. I suggest using a good fuse
and black powder instead of the methods presented in the manuals. Magnesium ribbon burns with a dazzling flame, but it is neither a fuse nor a match.
The demonstrations presented here are based on tiny pellets of the
composition held together with a binder. They are also called stars.
These are not as rapidly prepared as the usual demonstration compositions,
but contrary to these, the stars can be safely stored in metal cans. They
are at least as safe as matchheads. A 50-gram lot of stars is good for
tens of demonstrations.
Binders are organic compounds designed to keep the star in one piece. They
may be ordinary resins or gums (like shellac), carbohydrates (dextrin),
plastics (polyvinyl chloride, Parlon rubber) or thermosetting resins
(polyurethane, epoxy resin).
Chlorine donors are compounds designed to add chlorine or hydrochloric acid
to the flame. In coloured flames, they serve three main functions:
1) They aid in evaporation of the emitters (colour-producing substances).
2) Usually, the emitters are themselves chlorides (or diatomic species
containing chlorine) of the colour-giving elements. Metal chlorides cannot
be added directly, since they usually attract moisture.
3) In magnesium-containing compositions, the chlorine donors reduce the
disturbing background radiation of magnesium oxide and makes the flame
transparent. The chlorine donors also cool the flame.
The most common chlorine donors are polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and Parlon
rubber. The latter is richer in chlorine (ca 70%). They can both be used as
binders, too. Ammonium perchlorate is the only practicable oxidiser which
simultaneously acts as a chlorine donor.
Preparation of dextrin:
Spread some flour or potato starch on a plate and heat at 220 oC in an oven
for 15...30 minutes. Avoid overheating - when the product is brownish and
readily soluble in water, it's ready. Dextrin can be used either as a mere
fuel or also as a binder. Water is used as a solvent in this case. Sometimes
dextrin is mixed dry with the other ingredients and water is added
afterwards. However, see instructions below for a safer alternative.
Shellac and red gum may also be mixed with the other ingredients (if they
are powdered) and ethanol used as a solvent. Red gum is also called accroides resin. Shellac and red gum are also good fuels.
Parlon rubber is soluble in acetone.
Notes on using PVC:
PVC is available in two forms, hard (unplasticised) PVC and plasticised,
flexible PVC. Unplasticised PVC is available from PVC manufacturers.
Plasticised PVC is the form used for practical purposes. It contains some
high-boiling organic liquids (plasticisers) to keep it flexible.
It is very useful in pyrotechnics, too. Plasticised PVC tubing or hose
can be cut into pieces and dissolved in tetrahydrofuran (THF).
This solution can be used as such. It can contain up to 18% of PVC (w/v),
but give a week or two for the PVC to dissolve. A solution of hard PVC is
rather messy to handle. It is advisable to add 2 parts of dibutyl phtalate,
dioctyl phtalate or tricresyl phosphate to the solution per 100 parts of PVC
as a plasticiser. Instead of cutting the wet star composition into pellets
with a knife (as described below), you can just let a PVC-bound mass alone
on a plate until it's dry, carefully remove it and cut it into stars with
a pair of scissors. Easy. But only with plasticised PVC.
Unfortunately, THF is the only practically useful solvent for PVC. It is
really expensive, and if you want to reduce costs, use some other
binder and powdered PVC.
Tetrahydrofuran, ethanol and acetone are all narcotic if inhaled. Work in
a fume cupboard (hood). Stains of the binders are sometimes hard to
remove. Plasticised PVC is the easiest, but shellac requires hot ethanol
and probably some detergent for successful removal.
The stars are normally prepared as follows (this is probably the safest
method):
1. Dissolve the binder in the solvent used (usually water or ethanol). Pour
the solution into a flat plastic bowl and mix in the other ingredients.
Make sure all the ingredients are thoroughly moistened before adding the
next one. This will almost entirely exclude any accidental friction between
the fuels and the oxidisers. You can use glass or stainless steel tools for
mixing. Grind all the ingredients _separately_ in a mortar before weighing
and mixing them.
2. After you've arrived in a more or less homogenous mix, allow the excess of the solvent to evaporate (care! do not allow the mix to become too dry, since you'll have to moisten it again!) and press the mass into a flat cake, about 8 mm thick. With a pizza cutter, cut the cake into cubes 8 mm each side. A knife or a ruler may also be used. Best results are achieved by keeping the cutter clean. Allow the mass to dry (in a safe place; you may use a fridge fan to aid in drying) and remove the stars by bending and twisting the bowl. This is why we used plastic. However, see note on using PVC above.
3. Sometimes it is necessary to coat the stars with an igniting composition.
This can be done by moistening the stars with a suitable solvent in a bowl
and sprinkling the igniting composition on the stars. Give the stars a good
shake before adding more solvent or powder. It is advisable to mix
a little binder into the igniting composition before using it for coating.
For example, if you're going to coat the stars with black powder, you should
add some (say, 5%) dextrin to the black powder and moisten the stars with
water. Do not use _too much_ solvent - the stars will stick into each other,
and you'll get only large lumps! Use a dropper for adding the solvent.
You can mix your own powder for coating. It isn't actually true black powder,
not even "meal powder" (mixed and ball-milled powder), but it serves this
purpose well.
75 parts of fine, sieved potassium nitrate
10 parts of fine sulfur (preferably flour)
15 parts of fine, sieved charcoal
This mix can be stored in small plastic containers.
Specific procedures are described below if they are needed. The above
procedure is usually appropriate.
B. Coloured smokes
These formulas contain volatile organic pigments, which will partially
evaporate (sublime) from the heat of the main composition (lactose/potassium chlorate). Dextrin is used as a binder. The stars are usually coated with black powder to ensure ignition. It is advisable to use these stars in a cardboard tube to prevent the smoke from catching fire, which will destroy the effect. The easier alternative is to use a wire gauze (as usual) and to blow the flame out.
Note that the low flame temperatures of these stars aid in formation of
possibly toxic by-products (comparable to campfire smoke). The dyes
themselves are quite safe, although Rhodamine B should be handled with care
- it stains everything and contact should be avoided.
1. Blue smoke
40 parts of copper phtalocyanine (Phtalo Blue)
25 parts of lactose (milk sugar)
33 parts of potassium chlorate
2 parts of dextrin (a water-soluble binder)
Add water and proceed as above. Coat the stars with black powder/dextrin
or a simple ignition composition consisting of
4 parts of potassium chlorate
1 part of sucrose (cane sugar)
1 part of dextrin
This time you'll have to mix the chemicals in a dry state, ie, as plain
powders. Use a small plastic bowl and a glass rod for mixing. Do not grind.
Do not store the composition. Sprinkle it on the moistened stars. Use at
least 20% of the weight of the stars.
2. Yellow smoke
43 parts of quinoline yellow (quinophtalone yellow, Chinolingelb)
24 parts of potassium chlorate
16 parts of lactose
6 parts of sodium hydrogen carbonate (sodium bicarbonate)
2 parts of dextrin (as a binder)
Add water, proceed as above. Like the blue smoke stars, these stars should
be coated either with black powder or the igniting composition described
above.
3. Red smoke
40 parts of Rhodamine B (C.I. Basic Violet 10, C.I. 45170)
24 parts of potassium chlorate
16 parts of lactose
4 parts of sodium hydrogen carbonate
2 parts of dextrin
Add water and proceed as usual. Coat the stars as above.
Many other organic pigments and dyes can be used in coloured smokes.
The dyes should volatilise (sublime) readily between about 300...450
degrees oC, which excludes almost all dyes containing -NO2 (nitro) or -SO3H
(sulfonic acid) groups. Unfortunately, the leftovers are usually the
malicious azo or anthraquinone dyes, with known toxic properties. The dyes
suggested here are all safer than them.
If you wish to develop your own formula for a dye you think should work,
just substitute the dye with Rhodamine B in the previous formula. Every
dye would require a formula of its own, but the third formula is a good
starting point. If the dye you're using is evaporates near or slightly
above 300 oC, use a) 45 parts of the dye instead of 40 parts and b) 8
parts of sodium hydrogen carbonate instead of 4 parts.
C. Coloured flames
These are both easier to prepare and use than the coloured smokes. The
colours result mainly from atomic and molecular emissions in the flame.
For the yellow colour, the emitter is atomic Na (two lines near 589 nm).
For the red, both SrO and SrCl (radical) act as emitters, the former
giving a series of bands around 610 nm, and the latter emitting near 660
nm. Green comes from the molecular emission of BaCl radical (a number of
bands in the 510...535 nm range), but the colour is often disturbed by
BaO, which emits a series of bands mainly in the 530...600 nm range
(yellow). Moreover, BaCl is unstable at above 2000 oC. Finally, blue can
be obtained from the emission of CuCl below 1200 oC. The temperature of
a typical Bunsen flame is about 1800 oC, and the primary emitter at that
temperature is CuOH, which gives a green flame. The secret of a vivid blue
is a cool flame.
If you use the stars for demonstration purposes, it is not necessary to coat
the stars, since they will readily take fire anyway. The chlorate
compositions are generally more sensitive than the perchlorate compositions.Avoid sparks and static electricity. Do not grind!
1. Red stars
20 parts of potassium chlorate
60 parts of strontium nitrate
20 parts of shellac (binder)
Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol. Add the other ingredients and proceed
as described in the introduction. The stars take unexpectedly long to dry.
They can be dried in the sun or in a vacuum, but do not try any heating! The
smaller the stars are, the faster they'll dry.
65 parts of potassium chlorate
15 parts of strontium carbonate
20 parts of shellac
Proceed as above.
44 parts of potassium perchlorate
31 parts of strontium nitrate
8 parts of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) _or_ 7 parts of saran (PVDC)
15 parts of red gum (accroides resin)
5 parts of shellac (binder)
Proceed as above.
30 parts of ammonium perchlorate
35 parts of potassium perchlorate
18 parts of strontium carbonate
2 parts of hexamine
2 parts of fine charcoal
16 parts of red gum (accroides resin)
4 parts of dextrin
Add water, proceed as above; _but_ do not coat these stars with black powder! Ammonium perchlorate and potassium nitrate (from black powder) react to produce ammonium nitrate and potassium perchlorate. Ammonium nitrate is hygroscopic; the stars will never be dry in ambient humidity.
The following coating composition can be used:
80 parts of potassium perchlorate
15 parts of fine charcoal
4 parts of red gum (accroides resin)
9 parts of manganese dioxide (optional!)
4 parts of fine aluminium (preferably fine flake or pyro grade; optional!)
2 parts of dextrin
Aluminium and manganese dioxide aid in ignition, but are not necessary.
2. Green stars
A simple but nice (somewhat yellowish) green can be made from
7 parts of barium nitrate
7 parts of potassium chlorate
2 parts of shellac
Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol and proceed as described above for red
stars.
Dazzling green:
50 parts of barium nitrate
32 parts of lab grade magnesium powder
18 parts of Parlon (chlorinated isoprene rubber)
or 18 parts of PVC (corresponding amount of the solution in tetrahydrofuran)
Mix Parlon with magnesium. Add 50 volume parts of acetone, mix well and
mix in the other ingredients.
If PVC is used, add the correct amount of the solution in THF to the other ingredients and proceed as described above for PVC.
The composition leaves lots of ash. Ammonium perchlorate improves it:
56 parts of barium nitrate
32 parts of lab grade magnesium powder
17 parts of Parlon rubber (or PVC, solvent: THF)
25 parts of ammonium perchlorate
Proceed as described for the previous composition. Use 60 volume parts of
acetone for Parlon. If you use PVC, use the procedure above for using it.
Greens can also be based on aluminium:
65 parts of barium nitrate
10 parts of very fine aluminium (preferably dark pyro grade (sic!))
20 parts of Parlon rubber
4 parts of sulfur
2 parts of boric acid
Add acetone and proceed as usual. Coat with black powder.
An improved, fierce-burning formula with ammonium perchlorate:
65 parts of barium nitrate
20 parts of saran (or parlon, but saran is better in this case)
3 parts of red gum (accroides resin)
7 parts of sulfur
10 parts of very fine aluminium, preferably dark pyro
15 parts of ammonium perchlorate
2 parts of boric acid
2 parts of dextrin
Beautiful green, without magnesium:
50 parts of ammonium perchlorate
35 parts of barium nitrate
15 parts of shellac
Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol and proceed as usual.
Twinkling green (wow!)
23 parts of magnesium powder (use any lab grade powder)
60 parts of ammonium perchlorate
17 parts of barium sulfate
Binder solution: Dissolve 3 parts of nitrocellulose (smokeless powder or
celluloid film) into 30 parts (w/v) of boiling acetone. If you're going to
prepare these stars more than once, prepare more of the solution,
since nitrocellulose dissolves slowly even in refluxing acetone. Approx.
30 parts of the solution (v/w) is used each time.
Mix the ingredients into the binder solution in the order they appear above.
Proceed as usual. Note that acetone evaporates very rapidly and the stars
usually dry within a few hours.
Magnesium reacts slowly with ammonium perchlorate producing ammonia and magnesium perchlorate, especially in the presence of moisture. Thus, the
twinklers cannot be stored for more than 6 months, and they must be kept
in a closed bag.
During the smoulder phase, magnesium reacts with ammonium perchlorate
in the dark. In the flash phase, magnesium reacts with barium sulfate,
producing hot MgO and creating a green flame. The flash is followed by
another cycle, since the flash rapidly consumes the reactants in the flash
zone.
Nitrocellulose is used as a binder, since other binders tend to interfere
with the twinkling.
3. Blue stars
60 parts of ammonium perchlorate
17 parts of sulfur
20 parts of copper(II) oxide CuO
6 parts of red gum (accroides resin) _or_ shellac (powdered)
3 parts of dextrin (binder)
Add 25 volume parts of water to dextrin and mix in the other ingredients.
Use more water if necessary. Proceed as described above for stars in
general.
63 parts of potassium perchlorate
13 parts of copper oxide
14 parts of Parlon rubber (binder) or PVC (solution in THF)
10 parts of red gum or shellac (powdered)
Mix red gum or shellac powder with Parlon. Add 50 volume parts of acetone,
mix well and mix in the other ingredients. Proceed as usual.
65 parts of potassium perchlorate
16 parts of cuprous chloride (CuCl)
10 parts of sulfur
11 parts of Parlon rubber (or 12 parts of PVC)
7 parts of red gum (accroides resin)
Use either Parlon or PVC as a binder.
60 parts of ammonium perchlorate
20 parts of copper(II) oxide CuO
10 parts of sulfur
10 parts of dextrin
12 parts of polyvinyl chloride PVC (use a solution in THF)
Add the PVC solution to the other ingredients. Allow some THF to evaporate,
form a cake 1 cm thick and allow it to dry on a plastic plate (check that it
doesn't dissolve in THF!). Remove the dry cake and cut it into stars with a
pair of scissors.
4. Yellow stars
6 parts of potassium chlorate
2 parts of sodium hydrogen carbonate
2 parts of dextrin
Mix dextrin with 4 volume parts of water and mix in the other ingredients.
Proceed as described above for stars in general.
D. Sparklers, silver rains
Sparks are produced whenever hot liquid or solid particles are expelled
from the flame. In pyrotechnics, charcoal and aluminium are the most
common sources of sparks. Magnesium does not produce good sparks,
since it evaporates at 1100 oC and usually burns completely in the flame.
Charcoal and iron sparks are often orange or golden yellow, whereas Al
sparks are whiter. The colour of a glowing solid or liquid particle is almost
completely determined by its surface temperature. The intensity distribution often obeys the Planck's black-body radiation curve, although the actual intensities are usually lower than the theory predicts. This has sometimes been called grey-body radiation. The intensity maximum shifts towards shorter wavelengths (blue endof the visible spectrum) as the temperature increases. At the same time, the overall intensity is markedly increased.
The sparkler composition must generate enough gases in order to expel
the hot particles. Moreover, if the burning proceeds mainly through liquid
phases, it reduces the amount of sparks remarkably. Thus, ammonium
perchlorate is ideal for sparklers and silver rains. Potassium perchlorate
and potassium chlorate are generally not used, except with potassium
nitrate. The particle size of the materials may also have a profound effect
on the quality and quantity of sparks, especially with aluminium. Fine
flakes are best.
Dextrin and shellac are usually used as binders. Epoxy resin and polyurethane
can also be used.
The spark compositions are safer to prepare than coloured stars, since they
don't usually contain chlorates. Still, we are using fine metal powders here,
and the unpelletised compositions may be powerful explosives, though not
especially sensitive. Powdered aluminium is most sensitive to static
electricity. When in doubt, use metal cups and wear cotton clothing. Or,
even better, add all the ingredients to a solution of a binder one at a time.
This will exclude any danger in the preparation. The dried stars are not
as dangerous as the plain powders.
Furthermore, the stars may be hazardous to use, due to their very nature.
Have a fire extinguisher handy and wear cotton clothing. I also advise you
to protect your face and eyes. As always, remember not to test the stars
the first time before the audience. The shelf life of the stars is quite
long.
The stars are prepared as usual. Since fine powders are used, the stars are
easy to cut.
1. Gold flitter
16 parts of fine potassium nitrate
3 parts of sulfur
2 parts of powdered charcoal
4 parts of sodium oxalate (or 2 parts of ultramarine)
11 parts of fine, grey aluminium powder (preferably pyro aluminium)
5 parts of flake aluminium or medium aluminium powder (Al bronze works well)
4 parts of dextrin (binder)
Add water and proceed as usual. The particle sizes of aluminium powders
will markedly affect the result. If Al bronze is available, you can use all
16 parts of it instead of the two different Al powders.
2. Silver shower I
35 parts of potassium nitrate
8 parts of fine charcoal
2 parts of boric acid
7 parts of sulfur (flowers of sulfur)
60 parts of potassium perchlorate
20 parts of fine pyro aluminium (atomised aluminium, 0.1 um)
25 parts of fine flake aluminium (Al bronze)
15 parts of coarse flake aluminium
10 parts of dextrin
Add water and proceed as above. As before, the particle size and surface
area of the reactants has a profound effect on the results.
3. Silver shower II
65 parts of ammonium perchlorate
22 parts of fine aluminium powder or flake aluminium (not too coarse)
18 parts of shellac
Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, mix in the other ingredients and
proceed as usual. Shellac stars take a long time to dry; try drying in the
sun. The particle size of aluminium is not as critical as in the above
formulas.
4. Simple silver shower
15 parts of flitter (or any grade except the finest pyro grades) aluminium
55 parts of potassium nitrate
2 parts of boric acid
10 parts of fine charcoal
5 parts of dextrin (binder)
Add water and proceed as usual.
If you don't want to obtain N+1 grades of unspecified Al powders, feel free
to experiment with the grades you have. Both stabilised and unstabilised
Al powders will work. Just substitute the powder you have with the Al
powder suggested in the formula. (Use small batches.) If the composition
burns too fast and emits only a few sparks, you have to add coarser
grades. If you have enormous difficulties with ignition as well as a poor
result with regard to sparks, your Al is too coarse.
E. Uses
The stars should be used in a fume cupboard (hood), since they emit large
quantities of irritating smoke. There are several alternatives for ignition.
My own method is to place the stars on a wire gauze and ignite them with
a Bunsen burner. Use only a few stars at a time. The twinkling green stars
should be used one at a time for the best effect.
The stars will burn for a few seconds. They usually leave very little
residue. Clean up with a wet cloth and wash the gauze with water.
The effects can be used for demonstrating a variety of principles:
thermochemistry (the heats of reactions), kinetics and activation energies
(why don't the stars go off at once?), electronic spectroscopy (atomic
and molecular emissions), the chemistry of chlorine compounds (chlorates
vs. perchlorates), phase changes (evaporation of dyes) and even complex
kinetics (oscillations), if you can use the magnificent twinkling stars.
F. Hazards
The preparation and use of pyrotechnic compositions is not free from danger.
The smoke compositions are relatively safe, since they contain many inert
materials. Coloured flames, on the other hand, are more hazardous to
prepare. Follow the instructions carefully and avoid all grinding or static
electricity. Do not prepare too large batches (20...50 grams is ideal for
a beginner). Dry and store the stars in a safe place and label them. Do not
store any powdered compositions.
The stars won't explode, but the loose powders may have a good chance of
doing that, especially when confined. The stars merely burn (and are a fire
hazard if they are accidentally ignited) and generate noxious smoke.
By following the instructions, the preparation and use of ready-made stars
is at least as safe as the pyrotechnic demonstrations described in
Shakhashiri's great demonstration manual (Chemical Demonstrations: A hand-book for Teachers of Chemistry, part 1.)
Disposal: The best way of disposing old stars is to burn them. They can be
safely burned in small batches (no more than 50 grams at a time) if you use
a safety fuse and some igniting composition. Do this _outside_. If this is
not possible, do it in smaller batches in a fume cupboard. It is advisable
to have a fire extinguisher handy, as always.
G. Pyrotechnic literature
John A. Conkling: Chemistry of Pyrotechnics (Marcel Dekker, New York, NY
1986)
A great textbook for anyone, especially for those who are interested in the
chemistry beyond the fireworks.
See also Conkling's great articles in Scientific American (July 1990, pp
96-102) and Chemical & Engineering News (June 29, 1981, pp 24-32).
T.Shimizu: Fireworks - The Art, Science and Technique, 2nd ed. (Pyrotechnica
Publications, 1988)
This book is a must for any professional, either for a pyrotechnist or a
teacher. A comprehensive treatise of commercial fireworks and the underlying science.
More references can be found in Books in Print (in most libraries).
--> End 'o File

122
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stench.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,122 @@
Stenches For All
by Kurt Saxon
Typed by Mach Three from The Weaponeer
The Sound Barrier 916-758-9540, 9600 Baud
===========================================================================
In these days of fear of offending, people have gotten used to nothing
but good smells. So when a stench that can move mountains assails the
pampered nostril, the poor baby just can't deal with it. He she, or it must
go home, or if already at home, move. A good job done on the family or
company car gets the vehicle junked.
I once had an experience with Mercaptan, an oil distillate, when a
friend threw some into the car of a woman I was staying with (She had
had his child aborted and he had wanted badly to be a daddy).
I was awakened by the most horrible odor of garlic and skunks. It
was hard to trace to its source ad it seemed to be all over the house. I
finally traced it to her car parked outside in the open air. He'd opened
the car door, poured about an ounce in the back and closed the door.
Since it was that strong in the house and outside, from a closed
car, I wondered if the neighbors would notice. I looked and saw a
sheriff's car parked at the curb a full block away. I walked down there and
sure enough, the woman had called the law. Naturally, I didn't know a
thing, but can you imagine, a full block away?
As soon as I could I got a pint of it and I don't know of a
present source but maybe Aardvark has access to it.
The stuff is so volatile that the bottle I have is dipped in wax
and stored in a paint can stuffed with paper and the lid banged on tight.
Even so, a sniff at the can's edge tells me it's still in there.
I meant to foul a printing corporation in Dallas and hoped to carry
it in a wax-dipped hypo. The stench came through the plastic and the wax
something fierce so I couldn't carry it that way. Then I put it in a 4 cc
vaccine bottle with a rubber cap, the kind hypos are filled from. Not good
enough. I finally put the vaccine bottle in a 4 oz. glass vitamin bottle filled
with rubbing alcohol with a tightly screwed on plastic cap. That's what it
took to block the smell.
I mean to tell how to make it at home, and should be in the next
volume.
The first stench that is easy to make is the smell of rotten eggs. The
best way to get the smell of rotten eggs is to rot eggs. Break two eggs in a
jar and add an equal volume of urine. The uric acid gives it that special
something.
Stir well and leave the jar uncapped for about 24 hours. Then cap and
set it in a warm, dark place for a couple weeks. Actually it takes a long time
for eggs to rot and if the proper bacteria isnt there to settle in it the
result could be disappointing.
I had a batch going for a month before it really turned. But when it
did it was a horrific wonder. Just a sniff made me gag and that room stank
until the next day, even though I'd only had the jar open for a few
seconds.
When the stench is at its height, the next step is to remove the
solids. Cut a piece of cotton cloth 12 by 16 inches. Take everything outside
put the cloth across a plate and pour the mess in its middle. Quickly (it'll
smell worse than any shit you've ever smelled in your life) roll the cloth
into a loose tube and holding both ends, twist it until all the fluid has
run into a jar. Any fluid on the plate can also be poured in. Dispose of
the cloth.
Rotten meat is another really disgusting smell. Put a quarter pound
of hamburger in a jar and let it set for 24 hours uncovered. Then break
it up and cover it with its own volume of water and let it set for a couple
of weeks with the lid on tight. Refine the finished product the same way as
with the rotten eggs.
The same process goes for fish. Rotting fish will drive anyone up
the wall or out into the street.
The fact that these stenches can take several weeks to generate
shouldn't bother you. Actual working time is only a few minutes, and,
considering the small cost and the effect it has, makes it the cheapest
way to emotionally devastate an opponent.
If you mean to dispense the stench with a hypodermic you'll want
it to be clear of foreign matter so it doesnt clog the needle. For this
you'll need a coffee filter and holder. Put the filter in the holder over
a small jar which will accommodate its opening. Help the filter along by
giving its surface as much room as possible between it and the holder.
To do this, put toothpicks of straws around the inside of the holder.
Do all this outside and dont let it set there after its filtered.
You dont want the smell to be wasted in the open air.
Aside from just slopping the stench at the target, its best to use a hyp
o. This will enable you to squirt it, covering a wider area and with less
chance of being noticed. Also, with the inch long needle, you can squirt it
into locked buildings through double doors or under the door, into locks, in
cracks of walls, and all sorts of otherwise inaccessable places. Another way
is to stick it through backrests of couches, car seats, etc. They have to be
burned as there is no way to remove the stench.
If you're going to a bar or theater and anticipate some loud-mouth
slob, casually walk behind him and squirt some stench on his back. He'll be
forced to leave.
Although hypos are the easiest and least noticeable way of delivering
stenches, if your stench is worth using, the hypo won't block the odor for
more than a few minutes. You'll need a vaccine bottle to carry it around in.
These block all but the most volatile stenches, such as Mercaptan. In this
way, you can carry stenches or poisons around safely and draw them out with
the hypo just before use.
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm)
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845
Rat Head Ratsnatcher 510-524-3649
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102
Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives,
arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality,
insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS.
Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are,
where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother.
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X

74
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stink.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,74 @@
13 ?
THE GOODIES
-----------
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING
THAT IS DONE WITH THESE FILES.
1] LETTER BOMBS
2] FLAMETHROWER
3] CHEMICAL IGNITERS
4] STINKUMS
5] TNT
6] PIPE BOMBS
7] TEAR GAS
8] CAN BOMB
9] FLASHLIGHT BOMBS
10] PLASTICS EXPLOSIVES I
11] PLASTICS EXPLOSIVES II
12] KITCHEN EXPLOSIVES I
13] KITCHEN EXPLOSIVES II
14] THERMITE
15] SPY TEST
16] TRAILING PEOPLE
17] TV SURVEILLENCE
18] CONTACTING THE SERVICE
19] BASIC FIREWORKS
20] NASTIES
MORE COMING
(?=MENU,1-20) ->: 4 4
=======================================
-PRESS SPACEBAR TO QUIT-
STINKUM FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND
BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN
IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY
1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND
JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50
A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS
TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO
ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT
HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPOR-
IZED BY AN EXPLOSION.
TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFE
R WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME
IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS
ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND
STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFER HAS COMPLETE-
LY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW
LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A BUCKET
TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE
ANY SENSE,
(?=MENU,1-20) ->: 2
=======================================
-PRESS SPACEBAR TO QUIT-
ONLY TWO FILES PER CALL.
=======================================
<ENTER ORDERS><?=HELP> JEDISAYS-=+>K


32
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stink.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,32 @@
------------->Stink Bombs<--------------
I'm not quite sure of the proportions, but a very effective stink bomb
can be made from Ammonia and Sulfer, making Ammonium Sulfide. If somebody
can figure out the proportions, post a response. Until then, just try mixing
the two together liberally, and in a very wide open space. When you have
the yellowish fluid this produces, fill an eye dropper's worth into a small
glass container with a lid. You may use more than an eye dropper, but that
amount was all it took to completely evacuate the boy's locker room at my
school and get me suspended for 3 days (plus 2 Sat. Campus Corps, but that
was fun, because I got to raid lockers all day long!). A Coke bottle full
of it would be more than enough to completely evacuate a large building.
Note that even though there is no fire involved, most cities still consider
it fire-works, so if you take it to a public place (school, the subway,
etc.), don't let anyone know about it. I did, and they narked. The store I
got them from got busted too. Oh well, have phun and be careful!
RESULTS OF A STINK BOMB
-----------------------
A while back, I posted a formula for a righteous stink bomb, but I
wasn't sure if it worked. Well, I have news. It does, and how!!! A friend
of mine took a Coke bottle, filled it 3/4 full of ammonia, and added some
sulfur powder and corked it. Next, he shook it up, and I think some gas
might have escaped, but anyway the fluid separates into two layers: a yellow
layer and a clear layer. Pour off the clear layer. He then crept up to a
neighbor's house who had his windows open since it was such a nice day, and
he poured the entire bottle in the kitchen window. About 5 min. later, the
entire family including the dog was out in the backyard!


33
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkbmb.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,33 @@
------------->Stink Bombs<--------------
I'm not quite sure of the proportions, but a very effective stink bomb
can be made from Ammonia and Sulfer, making Ammonium Sulfide. If somebody
can figure out the proportions, post a response. Until then, just try mixing
the two together liberally, and in a very wide open space. When you have
the yellowish fluid this produces, fill an eye dropper's worth into a small
glass container with a lid. You may use more than an eye dropper, but that
amount was all it took to completely evacuate the boy's locker room at my
school and get me suspended for 3 days (plus 2 Sat.Campus Corps, but that
was fun, because I got to raid lockers all day long!). A Coke bottle full
of it would be more than enough to completely evacuate a large building.
Note that even though there is no fire involved, most cities still consider
it fire-works, so if you take it to a public place (school, the subway,
etc.), don't let anyone know about it. I did, and they narked. The store I
got them from got busted too. Oh well, have phun and be careful!
RESULTS OF A STINK BOMB
-----------------------
A while back, I posted a formula for a righteous stink bomb, but I
wasn't sure if it worked. Well, I have news. It does, and how!!! A friend
of mine took a Coke bottle, filled it 3/4 full of ammonia, and added some
sulfur powder and corked it. Next, he shook it up, and I think some gas
might have escaped, but anyway the fluid separates into two layers: a yellow
layer and a clear layer. Pour off the clear layer. He then crept up to a
neighbor's house who had his windows open since it was such a nice day, and
he poured the entire bottle in the kitchen window. About 5 min. later, the
entire family including the dog was out in the backyard!

71
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkbom.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,71 @@
***********************************
* How to make a REALY smelly *
* Stink Bombs *
* By: *
* aPOCOLyPSE *
* From: *
* A.W.O.L. INC *
* *
***********************************
Materials
********************
*Sulfer *
*Hydrated Lime *
*Sulfate of ammonia*
*Chili Powder *
*Water *
*2 large stew pots *
*1 Water gun *
*1 large bucket *
********************
Procedure
***********
1) In the first pan mix 4 ounces of sulfer with 8 ounces of hydrated
lime.
2) Add a quart of water to the first bucket.
3) Heat and stir the liquid until the sulfer has completely blended.(The
hydrated lime will sink to the bottom of the pan and a yellow liquid is
poured off the into the bucket.)
4) TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE and add 1 pound of sulfate of ammonia.
5) Stir it for a minute or until it begins to smell.
6) Cover the bucket with some plastic wrap and let it sit for about a
half an hour.
7) Pour out the liquid into a bottle so the bottle is half full.
8) Fill the second pan three quarters of the way up with water.
9) Add 1/2 a pound of chili powder to the water and mix until all of the
powder has disolved.
10) Fill the rest of the bottle with the mixture in the second pan.
Note:
Sulfer can be obtained in a chemistry set. Sulfate of ammonia
(a fertilizer) can be purchased at the garden section of a home
improvement/hardware store. Hydrated lime can be obtained in the
building supply department where cement is sold. And chili powder can be
bought at any grocery store.
To Use
********
Pour your fart formula in to your squirt gun. Be careful because if you
get on your hand you will smell for a long time! Now pretend you are the
terminater on blow everthing away!
Or you could leave it in the bottle and put it some where (ie. Your
neighbors back yard) and put a salute in it and run!
ASTA LA VISTA BABIE!
03/27/93

68
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkum.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,68 @@
STINKUM: FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN
IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND
JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS
TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT
HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION.
TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFE R WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME
IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND
STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFER HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A
BUCKET
TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF SULFATE
OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER THE BUCKET WITH
PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID
SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE
YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE
LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON.
A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFATE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GARDEN
STORE
AND GARDEN SULFER IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT GUN POWDER. IT HAS
10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED TO ANY FORMULA REQUIR-
ING SULFER. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10
A POUND.
STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL, THROWN IN A
BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE SAME GOES FOR THE
FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS
USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE
CAN
BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS BOUGHT
AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION. TO
KEEP
THE FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO MELTED
WAX. ENOUGH GOODY IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT FULL WHEN THE
FIRECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS FILLED AS SOON AS
POSSIBLE BEFORE USING.
IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A MATCH OR
CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT THAT MIGHT INJURE
SOMEONE.
! <- FUSE
---
! ! <- BRASS TUBE
! !
! !
(^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE
-------
! !1! !
! / !
! / !
!-----! <- WAX
! 1 !
! 1 !
! === !
! ! ! !
! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER
! ! ! !
! ! ! !
! === !
!-----!
Edited by : Quasimoto
---------------------------------------

98
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/stinkums.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,98 @@
****************************************************************************
* STINKUMS *
****************************************************************************
IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 188TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND
JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS
TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT
HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION.
TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFER WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME
IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND
STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFER HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A BUCKET
TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF SULFATE
OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER THE BUCKET WITH
PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID
SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE
YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE
LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON.
A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFATE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GARDEN STORE
AND GARDEN SULFER IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT GUN POWDER. IT HAS
10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED TO ANY FORMULA REQUIR-
ING SULFER. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10
A POUND.
STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL, THROWN IN A
BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE SAME GOES FOR THE
FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS
USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE CAN
BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS BOUGHT
AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION. TO KEEP
THE FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO MELTED
WAX. ENOUGH CHEMICAL IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT FULL WHEN THE FI
RECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS FILLED AS SOON AS
POSSIBLE BEFORE USING.
IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A MATCH OR
CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT THAT MIGHT INJURE
SOMEONE.
! <- FUSE
---
! ! <- BRASS TUBE
! !
! !
(^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE
-------
! !1! !
! !
! !
-- more --
!-----! <- WAX
! 1 !
! 1 !
! === !
! ! ! !
! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER
! ! ! !
! ! ! !
! === !
!-----!
ALSO, AN EASY WAY IS TO SIMPLY GET BUTERIC ACID FROM ANY CHEMICAL SUPPLY
STORE. LEAVE A SMALL UNCAPPED BOTTLE BEHIND A DOOR, WHEN A PERSON ENTERS
THE DOOR WILL PUSH OVER THE BOTTLE AND SPILL THE ACID...DO NOT GET ON
YOUR CLOTHING AS IT IS HARD TO UN-STINK...A COUPLE OUNCES CAN GO A
LONG WAY...
A HOMEMADE STINK BOMB CAN BE MADE BY MIXING A BATCH OF EGG WHITES, DRANO
(SODIUM HYDROXIDE) AND WATER. LET THE MIXTURE SIT FOR A FEW DAYS BEFORE
USING.
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm)
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845
Salted Slug Systems Strange 408-454-9368
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102
Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 408-961-9315
My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078
Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives,
arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality,
insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS.
Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are,
where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother.
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"

64
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tactics.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,64 @@
---------------------------------------
>> War Tactics <<
---------------------------------------
I don't know if these will be of any use to you, being the civilized, cult-
ured human beings we are, but I've been known to use them.
***How to kill using bamboo rods***
Well take a bamboo stick or better yet a knife and put any type of animal
excrements (shit) on the knife or the sharpened bamboo rod... Plant the knife
or rod in the ground firmly... When someone steps on it they most likely will
die of blood loss or the foriegn elements(shit) which been put in they're blood
stream will definetly kill him.
---> hand to hand combat <---
Get an 2 ace bandages and 2 knifes with blades on both sides... wrap the
knife to the top of you hand using the ace bandage, be sure to be able to
clench your fist so you can climb & punch. This is sick to do... So I
wouldn't suggest doing it unless we are under a russian attack.
===> The bog trap <===
When in a bog... You can remove the stumps in the bog and be left with a
large hole... Now throw the stump away and cover the pit with the dry grass
which be found anywhere in the bog most likely... You can even put this grass
on top of a still pond as long as it is still! If it moves forget it!
And lastly remember that when either having a pretend war or a gang war use
the bogs to your best advantage... They are usually warm water and hide you
quickly and easily... Trees are never to be used! They can be fatal to the
climber... think of how you can be surrounded in seconds and not be able to
get back down...
Here are the plans to make a nice bomb that is sure to impress your friends.
It's relatively safe too! This is an original creation, developed and tested
exclusively by Cesspool Computing. This beauty is known as...
"The Johnny (Fatman) Campo Bomb"
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Ingredients:
* A large explosive such as an M-80 or H-100.
* A large cylindrical cardboard container, such as the kind Planters
Cheese Balls or Kool-Aid drink mix, comes in.
* Several cans of Comet Cleanser. Don't use Ajax, it's not as good.
* Roll of electrical tape.
Plans:
Fill the container half full of the Comet cleanser. Poke a one eigth inch
hole in the side of the container at the halfway point. Insert the explosive
charge in the center of the container and run the fuse through the hole. (You
may have to lenghten to fuse.) Pour more Comet over the explosive charge to the
top of the container. Pack down well. Put lid back on container. Reinforce
the lid and base with the tape. Add the "Johnny (Fatman) Campo Bomb" name to
the device and your done.
When you light this, run like mad (unless you love to inhale Comet), because
when it goes off it produces a huge explosion and a massive green cloud that
drifts & drifts & drifts. Have fun.
---------------------------------------
Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open


47
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tamping.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,47 @@
Tamping
-------
Tamping is nothing more than an operation performed before the
explosion, to regulate and direct the destructive power of the explosion. In
other words, if a pound of black powder is ignited with a match, the explosion
will occur but most of the destructive force will take the path of the least
resistance - into the atmosphere. Now, if the same pound of black powder was
placed within a steel pipe, and sealed at both ends, except for a tiny hole
for the fuse, the explosion could be regulated with ease. This tamping
operation is necessary for any forms of demolitions in order that the
operation be successful. A stick of dynamite placed on a concrete roadway
untamped, when exploded will create a very small crater, perhaps a few inches.
If this same stick of dynamite were tamped, by placing several sandbags on
top of if and around it, the explosion would create a much greater crater.
This tamping operation is absolutely necessary for the demolition of a large
structure or building.
[1> When attempting to sever a steel rod or pole, through the use of
explosives, place a charge on each side, leaving a small gap between the butts
of the explosives.
[2> When cutting a chain, place the explosive charge on one side and tape it
securely into place.
[3> When cutting any odd-shaped object, the best explosive to use is plastique
because of its flexibility. It is especially usefull and effective when
cutting heavy metal cables. The compound should be placed around the side of
the cable that is to be cut, about a half-inch thick.
When sabotaging railroad tracks with explosive, use plastique if
available, since this is the easiest substance to use when trying to sever
objects or irregular shapes. The most common way of cutting train tracks is by
placing a charge of high explosives on either side of the "I" beam track, so
as to have the forces of the two explosions act upon each other, thus causing
the middle object maximum destruction.
Another method which has proven equally effective is placing a charge
between the rail and the switch. The switch is one of the weakest points along
the line, and a relatively small charge will not only sever the switch and
rail, but will also rip up the ties and the railroad bed. Tamping with
sandbags can and should be used if at all possible, since the extent of the
damage is multiplied several times by the addition of the sandbags. Tamping
can be useless if you are on a silent lightning-fast mission. In this case,
a two-pound charge of TNT carefully placed between the switch and rail will
almost certainly do the trick without tamping. The best procedure when
engaged in this type of sabotage is to repeat the acts every three-quarters
of a mile or so, so as to delay the repairmen and create confusion.
************************************************

35
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbar.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
Bad Ass Retards Presents
-"Plastic Tube Bombs"-
by
Trillion
I came a across this idea while looking around
a Rockaway Sales hardware store for a suitable pipe for a pipe
bomb. I came across this plastic tubing. It was bendable, yet
was not too thin. I decided to see what I could do with it.
I decided that this would be suitable for a bomb that
could get into "hard to reach places" and bend around corners
for tight fighting spaces. I got about 6 inches of it. I yanked
a fuse out of a pipe bomb because I didn't feel like making them,
but virtually any fuse would be fine. I melted some wax from
the bottom of a candle onto the "mouth" of the tube. This formed
a half circle.
TTTTTT T - Tube TTTTTT
T T w - Wax TwwwwwwT
TwwwwwwwwT F - Fuse TwwwFFwwwT
TwwwwwwT TwwwwwwT
TTTTTT TTTTTT
Then I placed the fuse on top of the half circle and
melted a little more wax onto it to seal it. I left about 1 1/2
inches of fuse in the tube. Then I sealed of the rest of the opening.
Then I poured some blackpowder into the other end. Until it was about
halfway full. Then I stuffed tissue paper into it until it was pretty
tight. Then I could have either used more wax or sealed a cap onto it.
You could have also sealed a cap onto the fuse section, but I was too
lazy. Now this cannot bend at 90 degree andgles but it is still
good for a fair curve. Just remember to pack it tightly and to have
sturdy endcaps. Have fun!
- /Trillion\
BAR '93

6596
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom11.ana Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

5529
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom13.ana Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

5539
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom13.txt Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

5538
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom1_3.txt Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

3726
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tbbom1_5.txt Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

34
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,34 @@
*************************************************************
* How To Make Tear Gas *
* *
* By: *
* Phobos and Demos *
* of The Lunatic Phringe BBS *
* 312-965-3677 300/1200 Baud *
*************************************************************
The following is for informational purposes only.
The process I am about to describe is called Oleoresin.
The compuond I am about to describe is called Oleoresid Capsicum.
First, get some red pepper seeds, you can find them in a food
store or in a nursery for plants. You will need 4 ounces of them.
The next step is to grind them up in a blender or in a mortar
Put the seeds into a coffe percolator with 16 ounces of distilled
alcohol and percolate for 1/2 hour.
After the 1/2 hour is up, you remove the alcohol liquid and what you
have left if a couple table spoons of red liquid.
The red liquid is added to 1/2 pint of mineral oil. You can get
mineral oil at any drug store. Once mixed, you have one nasty eye
irritant!
The way you use it is to put in a spray bottle and spray
it on your favorite enemy, or whatever!!! You could use the
top from a Windex bottle, cut the tube short enough and put it
in a medicine bottle. That way it is smaller.

45
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,45 @@
(=)=(=)=(=)=(=)=(=)=(=)=(=)=(=)=(=)=(=)
TEAR GAS FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND
BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN-1
THERE ARE SEVERAL EYE AND NOSE IRRITANTS ON THE MARKET WHICH CAN BE EASLIY
DUPLICATED. A GOOD IRRITANT IS FORMALDEHYDE, BETTER KNOWN AS EMBALMING FLUID,
IT SMELLS HORRIBLE AND HURTS THE EYES AND NOSE. IT ALSO VAPORIZES ON CONTACT
WITH AIR TO MAKE A ROOM UN- INHABITABLE FOR HOURS. IT CAN BE SQUIRTED FROM A
WATER PISTOL OR NASAL INHALER, POURED ON THE FLOOR OR VAP- ORIZED BY A BOMB
DESCRIBED IN THE STINKUM FILE. FORMALDEHYDE CAN BE BOUGHT AT THE DRUG STORE
UNDER THE PRETEXT OF WANTING IT TO PRESERVE MICE OR OTHER LAB SPECIMENS.
THE IRRITANT MAILMEN USE AGAINST DOGS AND WHICH IS SOLD WIDELY FOR SELF
DEFENSE IS OLEORESID CAPSICUM. CAPSICUM IS HOT ESSENCE OF RED PEPPERS.
OLEORES- IN IS THE PROCESS FOR EXTRACTING IT. TO EXTRACT THE CAPSICUM, GRIND
UP FOUR OUNCES OF RED PEPPER SEEDS IN A BLENDER OR WITH A MORTAR AND PESTLE.
RED PEPPER SEEDS ARE BOUGHT AT THE GROCER'S.
THE DRY, GROUND SEEDS ARE THEN PUT INTO A COFFEE PERCOLATOR IN WHICH THERE IS
ABOUT 16 OUNCES OF ALCOHOL, PREFERABLY WITH THE WATER DISTILLED OUT. THE SEEDS
ARE THEN PERCOLATED FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. THE ALCOHOL IS THEN DISTILLED OFF
UNTIL THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF TABLE SPOONS OF RED LIQUID LEFT IN THE FLASK.
THE RED LIQUID IS THEN ADDED TO A HALF PINT OF LIGHT MINERAL OIL, BOUGHT AT A
DRUG STORE.
IT CAN BE SPRAYED FROM A NASAL SPRAY. ANOTHER GOOD WAY IS WITH A WINDOW
CLEANING SPRAYER BOUGHT AT ANY DIME STORE. THE TUBE OF THE SPRAYER IS CUT TO
FIT IN A TWO OUNCE MEDICINE BOTTLE. THIS WAY YOU HAVE ENOUGH OF THE GOODY TO
LAST THROUGH A WHOLE DEMONSTRATION, NO MATTER WHICH SIDE YOU'RE ON. IT IS ALSO
NICE TO KEEP BY THE DOOR OR BY YOUR COMPUTER TO REPEL INTRUDERS. INTRUDERS =
BELL SECURITY!
BROUGHT TO YA BY
-=>JIM MORRISON<=-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the Progressive Underground
Although I haven't ||||||\\ ||| ||| |||||\\ Dissidents
heard from him, ||| )))||| ||| ||| \\\ 3 1 3 - 4 3 3 - 3 1 6 4
maybe this file's ||||||// ||| ||| ||| ))) Running: Citadel v2.17
author would =WANT= you ||| ||| ||| ||| /// About 20 Megs of TextFiles
to call... ||| \\|||// ||||||/ and the SysOp is Mr. Pez.


BIN
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas.txt Normal file
View File

Binary file not shown.

174
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargas2.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,174 @@
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$ $
$ TEAR GAS $
$ ---- --- $
$ $
$ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $
$ $
$ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $
$ BY KURT SAXON $
$ $
$ $
$ Typed and Uploaded by: $
$ $
$$$$$$$$$$$$-=>Lex Luthor<=-$$$$$$$$$$$
$ $
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
There are several eye and nose
irritants on the market which canb be
easily duplicated.
A good irritant is formaldehyde.
Better known as embalming fluid, it
smells horrible, hurts the eyes and
nose, andb on exposure to the air it
vaporizes, making a room uninhabitable
for hours.
It can be squirted from a water
pistol or nasal inhaler, poured on the
floor or vaporized by a bomb described
in the STINKUM PHILE.
Formaldehyde can be bought at the
drug store under the pretext of wanting
it to preserve mice or other lab
specimen.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
The irritant mailmen use against
dogs and which is sold widely for self
defense is oleoresid capsicum. Capsicum
is the hot essence of red peppers.
Oleoresin is the process for extracting
it. To extract the Capsicum, grind up
four ounces of red pepper seeds in a
blender or with a mortar andb pestle.
Red pepper seeds are bought in the
grocers's.
The dry, ground seeds are then put
into a coffee percolator in which there
is aobut 16 ounces of alohol,preferably
with the water distilled out. The seeds
are then percolated for about a half
hour. The alcohol is then distilled off
until there are only a couple of table
spoons of red liquid left in the flask.
The red liquid is then added to a half
pint of light mineral oil, bought at a
drug store.
It can be sprayed from a nasal spray
. Another good way is with a window
cleaning sprayer bought at any dime
store. The tube of the sprayer is cut
to fit in a two ounce midicine bottle.
This way you have enough of the goody
to last through a whole demonstration,
no matter which side you're on. It is
also nice to keep by the door or by
your computer to repel intruders.
intruders. (Bell Security!)
Before using, the container should
be given a phew shakes. Under laborat
ory conditions all the oil is extracted
from the seeds. But with my Mickey
Mouse method a lot of oil is left in so
the residue is quite potent. Just be
sure you strain out any larger bits
so the sprayer hole is not clogged.
The ground seeds left in the
percolator are dried and saved. They
are great for throwing into the faces
of people in a mob. If you really want
a laugh, throw some broadcast from a
theater balcony during the death scene
in "Love Story".
The goody called MACE is probably
only acrolein. If not, it works just
as well as MACE and is simple and fun
to produce. It is the same product as
described on pages 104 through 106 of
the ANARCHIST COOKBOOK. Mine however,
is broken down and simplified.
Acrolein is not toxic but causes
horrible pain in the nose and copious
tears, andb irritates the skin. A shot
in the face from a water pistol or
some other sprayer will put anyone out
of the game for at least half an hour.
Acrolein is best made anb ounce at
a time. Put in the flask 2 1/2 ounces
of glycerine and 3/4 ounce of sodium
bisulfate (Sani-Flush), both of which
can be bought at any grocery store.
The still is set up with the outside
tube connected as the fumes are bad.
When the mixture starts to bubble it
must be watched constantly to make sure
it does not bubble up into the neck of
the flask. If it starts for the neck
of the flask, remove the lamp until it
settles down. If the lamp is too hot,
the tin can is raised on small blocks
until the right heat is gotten.
Distill off an ounce of acrolein
and take away the lamp. An ounce is
all this size batch is good for. Let
the flask cool for anb hour before
opening and cleaning. Pour the residue
down the sink and put your face over
the drain to get a sample of the
vapor. Then cap the receiving bottle
and wash everything the acrolein was
in contact with. The best squirter
for the three irritants above is a
water pistol. Most water pistol. Most
water pistols leak badly so they mustt
be tranbsported barrel up so the goody
won't ooze out around the trigger. It
will leak when you use it so it is
best to put in the plastic sandwhich
bag with the opening held around the
barrel with the rubberband. If the is
pistol has a trigger guard it should be
cut off and then it can be used just as
easily in a plastic bag as otherwise.
For casual carrying around, you cant
beat a nasal spray. The best ones can
be screwed open so the goody can be
poured in. If not, you have to squeeze
it and put its nozzle into the goody.
When the pressure is released the
irritant will be sucked up.
Such irritants are illegal to carry
in some states. that's one of the
reasons the nasal spray is best. If you
are searched and it is found, there
is little chance it will be recognized
for what it is. I don't know what
advice to give you if the cop has the
sniffles and goes to use some of your
goody.
thats all pholks
----------------------------------------
***Call The Morgue at:(201)376-4462***
*** The Armoury at:(201)267-1207***
***Two Great BBS's***
DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS......

64
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/teargasp.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,64 @@
PrimoPyro1990
... TEARGAS AND RELATED ITEMS ...
DISCLAIMER: This file contains information on making substances which are
illegal or harmful. Neither the BBS carrying this file nor its
author can be considered responsible for making this information
available. This file is intended for information only.
CAPSTUN: Capstun (capsaicin) is the active oil in red pepper. If you don't
think something derived from pepper can be as good as CN or CS tear gas,
think. Even if a person is maced, he can still can still function if he is
motivated enough. Capstun is an irritant which causes nasal passages to swell
, making the affected person breathe through their mouth which in turn causes
them to inhale the capstun which affects the throat causing choking. It's
effect in the eyes is extreme tearing and pain. In addition it causes a
burning sensation on any exposed skin. Capstun does not cause permanent
damage.
Capstun is easy to make. The only drawback is you have to heat up ethyl
alcohol which is flammable.
Obtain 1 lb. of dried red or green hot peppers. The hotter the better. Chop
them up in a blender and put them into a large jug. Add denatured ethyl
alcohol to the peppers until they are covered by an inch or two of alcohol.
Put the jug into a pot of water on an electric burner and bring the alcohol
almost to a simmer. Be very careful as the alcohol fumes can ignite. Don't
use a flame to heat the water. Let the alcohol cool a bit then filter it off.
Repeat this 3 times. Throw out the peppers and put all the alcohol into a
large mouthed jar. Take the water pot/heater outside and heat up the alcohol.
Evaporate the alcohol down to about 100 mls. Filter off the alcohol again
and let it evaporate to leave a thick reddish oil. If you are adventurish
take a minute amount of the oil and taste it. Have plenty of water on hand
though.
Capstun is usually used as a 1% to 5% solution. Cut it down with mineral oil
or another suitable carrier.
CAPSTUN BOMB: Take a 12 gauge shotgun shell and open the crimp. Pour out the
shot and seal the shot cup with a thin layer of epoxy. The seal must be oil-
proof. Take a 1 in. long piece of broomhandle and drill a small hole through
it's center. Epoxy it onto the brass end of the shell so that the hole is
over the primer. Now fill the shell with a 5% solution of capstun. Close the
crimp up again and epoxy the end shut. Take a cloth streamer about 1 1/2 in.
wide by 2 ft. long and epoxy one end of it to the crimp end of the shell.
When all is ready take a short nail and insert it through the hole up against
the primer. Hold it in place with 2 pieces of tape. To use this, fold the
streamer up in your palm and place the shell on top of the streamer. Throw
the shell in a high arc. The streamer will cause the shell to land nail end
first setting off the primer. When the shell goes off it will spray the
capstun into the air. Two of these can clear the street.
If you have problems with the capstun leaking, try loading it first into a
small plastic bag. Heat seal the open end of the bag then load it in the
shotgun shell without the shot cup.
Even though the capstun won't cause damage, the carrier it is dissolved in
can, so chose it carefully.
*** Kilroy was here ***


64
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tears.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,64 @@
******* ***** * **** *** * ***
* * * * * * * * * * *
* *** * * **** * * * ***
* * ***** * * * ** ***** *
* * * * * * * * * * *
* ***** * * * * *** * * ***
By: VIPER
________________________________________________________________________________
I have thought of two easy ways to make tear gas. The first one works, but I
have yet to try the second.
**************
MATERIALS *
Chili Powder *
Vinegar *
Squirt gun *
**************
PROCEDURE
1. Mix the powder and vinegar untill it has a consistancy like water. The color
should be kinda brown.
2. Place the mixture in an airtight container untill use.
3. At the time of use get a squirt gun that doesn't leak (if it DOES leak, wear
rubber gloves) and fill the gun with the tear gas.
*****BE CAREFULL!!! IF THIS SHIT GETS IN YOUR EYES OR IN A CUT IT WILL HURT*****
I thought of this next way after my friend accidentally got sprayed in the
eye with hot sauce at TACO BELL.
**************
MATERIALS *
Hot Sauce *
Viegar *
Chili Powder *
(the powder *
is optional) *
**************
The procedure is like the first but instead of useing the chili powder you
use the hot sauce. OR, for a more powerfull mixture, USE BOTH!!!
Once again BE CAREFULL WITH THIS SHIT!!!!!
I AM NOT RESONSIBLE IF SOME IDIOT USES THIS SHIT AND BLINDS SOMEONE!! EVEN
I DON'T KNOW HOW POWERFULL THIS SHIT IS!! THIS FILE IS HERE SO YOU CAN HAVE FUN
READING IT, NOT SO YOU CAN GO BLIND SOMEONE!!
* * * **** **** ****
* * * * * * * *
* * * **** *** ****
* * * * * * *
* * * **** * *


560
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis-b.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,560 @@
From: jdolske@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Justin H Dolske)
Date: 26 Jul 93 19:26:06 GMT
--------------------------------
The Ancient Art of Cannonry v1.0
by
jdolske@andy.bgsu.edu
7/23/93
--------------------------------
===
0.0 Index
Section Title
0.0 Index
1.0 Introduction and Disclaimer
1.1 Equipment list
1.2 Credits
2.0 Tennis Ball Cannon v1.0
2.1 Tennis Ball Cannon v2.0
2.2 Tennis Ball Cannon v2.5
3.0 Other Designs and Ideas
3.1 Alternative Fuels
3.2 Alternative Designs
3.3 Assorted Ideas
===
1.0 Introduction and Disclaimer
So you wanna build a cannon? I think nearly everybody is familiar with the
basic idea of the Tennis Ball Cannon -- some type of device that, when
ignited, fires a tennis ball out one end. This sounds simple enough, but
making a cannon that can shoot long distances (E.g., 100+ yards) can be a bit
tricky. The purpose of this document is to guide the reader through the
production of a number of different types of cannons.
Section 2.0, 2.1, and 2.2 deal with the three types of cannons I've
built to date. If you just want to build a cannon, these are the sections
for you. These cannons are probably not the most powerful that can be made,
but they have all been built and tested. They're easy to build and easy to
fire, unlike some of the vague net-info I've seen floating around. Hopefully
I've been precise enough that anyone with some a little talent and time can
successfully build a cannon that can fire impressive distances. If you're
interested in theory or experimentation with unproven designs (by this
author, at least), check out later sections.
While I've never had any serious accidents with my cannons, I recognize
that this it *not* a harmless sport! I feel that although the simpler cannons
are fairly safe (assuming standard precautions are taken), the more advanced
models can generate TREMENDOUS pressures in the barrels. The power of such
simple devices still amazes me. With this said, keep these points in mind:
* Don't build and use any of these cannons if you're not willing to
take a risk. If you feel wary of setting off large fire crackers,
this sport isn't for you.
* I'm not perfect person, and this isn't a perfect guide. Just
because I don't mention something or I leave a point out doesn't mean
it isn't important. Use some common sense.
* Play it safe! Wear eye-protection (e.g., impact resistant goggles)
and ear-protection. These things can blow up and can make VERY loud
bangs. A sturdy pair of gloves is also a must. I'm not kidding -- I
wear all this stuff. A thick piece of PVC (I use 4" Schedule 40) pipe
is recommended also for use as a "blast shield" around the cannon.
If these cannons explode, you'll be glad for 1/4" or more of PVC
between it and you.
* Read through this entire document before building or buying
anything.
* I take no responsibility for your actions and/or stupidity. If you
get hurt, it's not my fault. Use this information at your own risk.
Please email me with any suggestions/ideas/experiences. The quest for the
bigger, better, farther, safer cannon never ends!
===
1.1 Equipment list
Here are some basic items you'll want to have on hand when building cannons.
Don't run out and buy everything at once -- Not all of it is used in every
cannon.
* Duct Tape -- Used to reinforce cannon. Plan to use at least 1/2
of a roll for every cannon.
* Glue -- Wood Glue (a.k.a. Carpenter's Glue) and Super Glue are handy
* Cardboard tubes -- About 2.5" diameter. Pringles cans are easiest.
For future reference, a Pringles can is 9.5"
long.
* Tennis Balls -- Your projectile!
* Pop Cans -- Can function as a both barrel components and as a tip
to firmly hold tennis ball.
* Lighter or Matches -- Used to ignite cannon. Long matches are a
good idea...
* Knives -- A good sharp knife for cutting cardboard/tape. A cheap
knife can be used to cut cans and other thin metal.
* Lighter Fluid -- Used as a fuel. Don't use butane! You want the
liquid stuff, also known as Naphtha. "Zippo" is
a common name brand.
* Tape Measure -- If you're interested in exactly how far your cannon
can *really* fire.
* SAFETY EQUIPMENT -- See Section 1.0!
===
1.2 Credits
This document was created as a summary and guide to cannonry after spending
the summer of 1993 building and improving cannons.
Ideas, suggestions, etc. were also contributed by the following people:
Kevin Parsley
brad@slammer.UUCP (Brad Isley)
dale@unislc.slc.unisys.com (Dale Clark)
david@baervan.nmt.edu (Davis Fritchman)
farb@ecr.mu.oz.au (William_Cuming FARROW)
gt5876b@prism.gatech.edu (Rick Farmer)
i919802@redgum.ucnv.edu.au (Douggie)
rhughes@mtgy.gtegsc.com (Ralph Hughes)
henlib@nevada.edu (Carroll Gardner)
Tidbits gathered from other UseNet rec.pyrotechnics readers
The Big Book of Mischief v1.3 (TBBOM13.TXT)
===
2.0 Tennis Ball Cannon v1.0
This is the first type of cannon I built, and it's also quite simple to
build. This design can fire a tennis ball about 45 feet. It's also quiet --
the "whoosh" sound of this cannon probably doesn't require hearing protection
unless you're sensitive to sound. I'd encourage anyone who's never built a
cannon before to build this one first; it can later be modified to a "v2.0"
cannon.
The design of this cannon is extremely simple. The barrel is made from
between 2-5 Pringles cans (I found that more that 5 has no effect). Just
empty the cans, and cut off the metal bottoms on all but 1 can. When you
cut off the bottoms, cut the cardboard sides as evenly as possible to ensure
a good fit. Tape/glue all the cans together as securely as possible. The one
can with the metal bottom intact should be the bottom can, everything else
goes on top. Make sure all joints and the bottom are reinforced especially
strong.
At the base of the bottom can, make a small hole. It should be no bigger
than 1/4 inch, and no smaller than 1/8 inch. A hole in the metal instead of
the cardboard should also work, but I found a hole in the side to be less
awkward to light.
All that needs to be done now is to make a fitting for the tennis ball to
sit in. The easiest fitting is to cut a circle out from the plastic Pringles
can lid so that a tennis ball can be snugly wedged into it. You may wish to
run a wire or string through the sides of the can near the top so your tennis
ball will not fall all the way into the cannon! An alternative to the lid is
to use a pop can with the top and curved-part of the bottom removed. The pop
can fitting may shorten the range of the cannon, however.
Now would be a good time to make sure your safety gear is on!
The cannon is now complete and ready to be fired. To fuel it, put a squirt
or two all the way down the *side* of the can. Don't just dump it all on the
bottom or it won't work! Do put a few drops on the bottom to make sure that
there is plenty of fuel by the ignition hole. It doesn't take very much
lighter fluid at all. Between 1/2 teaspoon and 1 teaspoon is PLENTY. We're
only interested in burning the *vapors* of the lighter fluid.
As soon as you've put in the fuel, stick the tennis ball in the top. Wait
5 to 10 seconds to be sure the lighter fluid has vaporized. Now point it in
a direction that won't injure anyone or anything, and ignite the cannon with
your lighter or match.
If all goes well, you will be rewarded with a "whump" and the tennis ball
will shoot out the top. At a 45-degree angle, the cannon should throw the
ball about 45 feet.
* If your cannon would not ignite:
- Your hole may be too small. Try making it a little bit bigger.
- Make sure the fuel was squirted evenly down the side, with a little
extra near the ignition hole.
- If you've fired it before, make sure you blow out the exhaust
gasses -- the lighter fluid must have fresh air in the cannon to
burn.
* If your cannon ignites but is very weak:
- Your hole may be too large. Use tape to shrink the size. A large
hole allows the pressure to vent through the hole instead of pushing
the tennis ball.
- The tennis ball may need to be wedged in firmer to allow pressure to
build up before launch. use a smaller circle in the Pringles lid or
push in the side of the cola can a bit.
- If you've fired it before, all of the exhaust fumes may not have
been blown out. A hairdryer can be used to quickly perform this.
- A 2 can cannon will not fire nearly as far a larger cannon. Roughly
expect about 20 feet for 2 cans, 30 for 3, 40 for 4, and 45 for 5.
===
2.1 Tennis Ball Cannon v2.0
Well, the first cannon was a good start, but it just wasn't impressive.
There was no real noise, and you could easily throw a tennis ball farther by
hand. Now enter the exciting world of the "baffle." By placing an obstruction
across half of the diameter of the cannon at regular intervals, the pressure
produced by the cannon is GREATLY increased. I suspect the baffles slow down
the combustion of the vapor, allowing for a more complete burn, but that may
not be correct. In any case, you can at least triple the range of a v1.0
cannon by just adding a few baffles.
WARNING! This is where these cannons become much more dangerous! The noise
produced is now much, much, MUCH louder -- ear protection is a MUST! I can't
stress this enough. I personally lost hearing for a few minutes after my first
shot -- stupid, but I'm much more careful now. The pressures involved are
also tremendous. The bottom end of a Pringles can is always dented and warped
after the first firing, and you'll always get seams blown out. The baffles,
which are made from metal, have the potential to produce shrapnel. And, of
course, the tennis ball has much more energy. I've heard these can cause welts
at close ranges.
I strongly suggest first building a cannon of no more than 2 cans. It's
fairly simple to add on one can at a time -- this will give you a feel for
just how much reinforcement to use when constructing cannons. Use of a PVC
"blast shield" is strongly encouraged!
The range on these cannons is impressive. A 3-can cannon can fire over
120 feet, and a 4-can cannon can reach 100 yards! Beware of blow-outs. The
first time a baffled cannon is fired, you will probably find areas around
seams where the cannon has split the duct tape. After securely taping these
up you can easily add 100 feet of range. Thus, the second shot is always more
impressive than the first.
A baffled cannon is also harder to fuel and ignite. Your first few attempts
may not work well at all, or may be very weak. Don't be fooled!
Construction of this type of cannon is similar to that of a v1.0, except
for the baffles. The best material for baffles I've found are the sides of
pop cans. Use some sort of cutting instrument to cut off the top and
bottom to a can, and slice down the side to create one sheet of metal.
Flatten this sheet out.
For baffles in the middle of a can, simply make a straight cut through
half of the can. Then insert the metal sheet, and cut so that it extends
about 1.5" from the side of the can. Baffles on a seam between cans just
need to be cut to shape.
Sheet of metal
(Top view) /
/
.----------------------------.
| |
| |
| |
| |
| __---__ |
| /' `\ |
| .' `. |
|______|_____________|_______|
`. .'
\ /
`--___--'
\
\
Pringles can
Using the extra metal on the sides, use a pair of old scissors to cut
flaps. These will be used to secure the baffle to the can to prevent them from
being blown out. The ASCII pic below shows 6 crude flaps. One-by-one, bend
the flaps down and tape them securely to the can. You may wish to use some
wood glue here to help get a tighter fit. The baffles should alternate sides
so that you cannon see more than 2 baffles as you look into the cannon.
.----------------------------.
| \ | / |
| \ | / |
| \ | / |
| \ | / |
| \ __---__ / |
| \/' `\/ |
|------.' `.-------|
|______|_____________|_______|
`. .'
\ /
`--___--'
Once all the cans are baffled, you'll have a cannon with a side view
something like this:
(Cutaway view)
__________________________________
| | |
|_____________|_____________|______
Make sure you use LOTS of tape to reinforce the cannon. On the last cannon
like this I made (4 cans), I used about 3/4 roll before the first shot, and
more afterwards to patch blow-outs. You can't use too much. Pay special
attention to the seams and cuts for the baffles. Make sure you've got plenty
holding on the back or it will blow off! If you've been firing from a hole on
the bottom instead of the side, consider putting the hole on the side so if
the back blows off it won't hit your hand.
Now would be a good time to put on your safety gear!!!
Fueling baffled cannons is a bit trickier because you don't have a clear
route down the side. Get the lighter fluid as far down as you can by
squirting down the top, then flip the cannon over and squirt some through the
ignition hole. Rotating and tilting the cannon will help the fluid get to the
middle. Stick in the tennis ball, and let the fuel evaporate for about 20
seconds. Make sure you're wearing a glove when you ignite this! You'll burn
any fingers near the ignition hole if you're not wearing gloves...
Hopefully you'll hear a loud boom (muffled, of course, through your ear
protectors) and the tennis ball will shoot about between 100 feet and
100 yards. Now take a look at your cannon. Patch any blowouts with plenty
of tape. Observe the denting done to the bottom of the Pringles can and
damage done to the baffles. These cannons are good for about 5 shots before
the baffles are completely destroyed. Now go find your tennis ball. :-)
* If your cannon would not ignite:
- Check fixes listed under Cannon v1.0
- Baffled cannons take much longer to vent exhaust fumes from
previous firings. Always blow through the ignition hole to push
out the exhaust.
- Did you put fuel through the ignition hole to ensure fumes in that
area?
* If you cannon performed weakly:
- Did you allow the lighter fluid to evaporate?
- See caution above about exhaust fumes.
- On larger cannons, vapors may not be reaching the middle of the
cannon. Try putting fluid in the bottom first, and blowing though
the ignition hole to force vapors into the middle.
- Check your baffles. After 4 or 5 shots they are badly damaged or
destroyed.
- Refuel and try again. Sometimes they seem to fix themselves. :-)
===
2.2 Tennis Ball Cannon v2.5
This section is still "under construction." As of this writing, I have not
completed or tested this cannon, but I will describe it's construction. This
cannon is basically the same as v2.0, but is designed with strength and
durability in mind.
The barrel of this cannon is no longer made from Pringles cans -- an
important benefit to those of you sick of eating Pringles by this point!
Instead, use a thick cardboard tube of about the same diameter. These are
the kinds of tubes used for mailing things, storing blueprints/drafting plans
in, etc. A good art store, mailing store, or office supply store should have
something like this in stock. I'm using the shipping tube from 1960's vintage
M518 (?) 2.5" rockets, but other cardboard tubes will work just as well. I've
seen cardboard tubes with walls in the 1/4" range, so these should hold up
much longer than a Pringles can.
The tube I'm using already has a metal end on it, but most others don't.
I should think a PVC end-cap or tin-can of the appropriate diameter would
work well. Be sure to use extra tape to hold the end on and to help prevent
shrapnel!
Unfortunately, these cardboard tubes lack the smooth foil/plastic coating
that the Pringles can had. I plan to use a polyurethane (The type in a
spray-paint type can) to coat the inside to prevent the fuel from soaking
into the cardboard.
The baffles are made from sheet metal, the type used in air duct work is
ideal. These are cut with a metal saw in the same shape as before, and bent
with pliers.
===
3.0 Other Designs and Ideas
The following sub-sections are, unless noted, untested by this author. Some
designs/ideas were submitted by other "cannonists," some are just theories
or thoughts. I'll try to note which the case is. Experiment at your own risk!
===
3.1 Alternative Fuels
The fuel used by most cannons is just lighter fluid (naphtha), but other
fuels are available -- some are reported to be much more powerful.
* Fuels that don't work: (experience)
-Gasoline: I thought this would be great, but I just wasn't
able to get the cannon to light. This may just
be tricky to use properly.
-White Gas, a.k.a. Coleman Fuel: Same thing, wouldn't ignite.
* Propane: (experience)
This worked quite well, it's as good or slightly better than
naphtha. Propane is certainly worthy of further study...
* Alcohol: (submission)
Also known as denatured ethyl alcohol. This is supposed to be
more powerful than naphtha, but is also supposed to be much harder
to reliably measure/ignite.
* Engine starting fluid: (submission)
Also known as ether (one brand is diethyl ether), this seems to
be second in popularity. One drawback is it's higher cost. Be sure
to only use with STURDY cannons! This is supposed to be quite
powerful.
* Acetylene: (submission)
Also known as welding gas. Acetylene/air mixtures can be
*extremely* powerful, and have the potential to be ignited from
even tiny amounts of static electricity. Use caution with this!
* Calcium Carbide: (submission)
When mixed with water, this produces a gas closely related to
Acetylene -- follow similar precautions.
* Hair spray: (submission)
Commonly available, but I would imagine that other fuels would
produce better results. I would also think this would leave a
sticky residue in the cannon.
* Hydrogen/Oxygen: (untested)
This should produce some impressive results, but has the potential
to be dangerous. A hydrogen/oxygen mix (66%/33%) will produce the
best results, but a hydrogen/air mix should also work (air is 20%
oxygen). A cannon filled with pure hydrogen will not work.
A fairly simple way to produce a hydrogen/oxygen mix is by
electrolysis of water. This has the advantage of producing the
gasses in the exact ratio.
Hydrogen alone can be collected as the byproduct of dissolving a
metal in an acid. Aluminum foil in muratic acid (usually about
9M HCl) works fine.
* Acetone: (untested)
Acetone evaporates quickly, but I'm not sure how explosive the
vapors are.
* Propylene Oxide: (untested)
This is what the military uses in Fuel-Air Explosives. I bet this
stuff would be great to use, but I have no idea on where to get
some, and it's probably highly toxic.
===
3.2 Alternative Designs
* A cannon made from pop cans: (submission)
This design is basically a cannon using 1 can as a combustion
chamber, and 4-5 cans as a barrel. This design may not be practical
today due to pop cans being pressed/molded rather than rolled steel
with ends put on. In any case, the tops and bottoms of 4-5 cans are
removed and the cans are taped together. I suggest using plenty of
tape on the sides to prevent blowouts and (especially) shrapnel.
The "chamber" can has holes punched on top -- a LOT of holes -- and
a small hole at the bottom to ignite the cannon.
With a few drops of lighter fluid in the combustion chamber, shake
the cannon to help the fuel vaporize. This cannon is supposed to
fire about 100 yards.
* Another pop can cannon: (submission)
This is similar to a v2.0 cannon. Cut the tops off of 4 cans, and
1/2 the bottom on 3 of those cans. Securely glue and tape these
cans together, using the can with only the top removed as the base
for the cannon. Again, use plenty of tape on the sides.
Use a few drops of lighter fluid for fuel. No ranges given, but
it is claimed to have a "significant" kick.
* Yet another pop can cannon: (submission)
Same as "Another pop can cannon" but a soup can was used for the
base. With ether as a fuel, this cannon is said to fire 200 yards.
* Juice can cannon: (submission)
Simple construction. A 3-liter metal juice can with a 2-foot
length of natural gas pipe stuck in the top. A weighted 35mm film
canister was used as a projectile instead of a tennis ball.
* Propane cylinder cannon: (submission)
This one certainly sounds sturdy! Cut the top off of two empty
propane cylinders, and the bottom off from one of them. These are
the thinner kind used for handheld torches, not the squat/fat ones
used for camping. Weld the two cylinders together, and weld a nut
over the ignition hole for a spark plug to screw into for remote
ignition. This cannon was used with acetylene gas.
* Aerosol can cannon: (submission)
Barrel:
Take a tall aerosol can of correct diameter. Most paint cans are
just right. The large Gunk engine cleaner cans are great. Make
sure the can is EMPTY. This means punch a hole in it in a
location that is to be discarded. This is to be sure there is no
pressure remaining. With a dremel tool or other grinder, cut off
the top completely. This includes removing the crimp. Leave a
smooth end. Then take a can opener and remove the bottom. Leave
the crimp ring on the bottom of the can.
Chamber:
Smaller aerosol can of same diameter. Large WD40, etc. With same
dremel tool or similar cut off the very top of the dome. The hole
you cut will need to be about 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the can.
This will form a stop for the ball as it is loaded. Punch a small
hole in the side near the bottom. If you want more power, use a
tall can for the chamber. I'm quite pleased with the medium sized
can for a chamber.
Ignition source and handle:
Get one of those trigger operated butane lighters that has a piezo
electric trigger. Zippo makes the one I use. The lighters I use
are red and white with a long chrome-plated steel extension for
lighting fireplace starters. Remove the coil thingie behind the
trigger. Unfortunately the coil thingie will vary quite a bit.
Some are not usable - they have a brass cap on the end. I was
unable to solder a wire to the brass cap. Solder a wire to each
post on this piezo thingie and insert it in a handle of sorts.
I made a pistol-shaped handle attached to a flat board like so:
Crimp Rings
\
-------------------------------=------------------
| /| |
| Dome -> | | |
barrel -> | \| | <- chamber
-------------------------------=------------------
================== <- flat board
\ \
piezo thingie trigger -> [####]=\== <- wires
\ \
\ \ <- handle
-----
Construction:
Using duct tape, tape the ringed end of the barrel to the dome
end of the chamber. Be sure the fit is tight. Drill a hole in the
handle where you want the trigger. Arrange for the wires to go in
first and allow for an exit where you want it. Attach the handle
to the flat board with screws. Duct tape the handle to the
chamber. Run the wires around to the hole you punched. Twist the
ends of the wires together for about an inch so they will stay in
close proximity. Strip the ends about 1/8" and make a gap about
1/8". Test the spark by pulling the trigger. Get as long a spark
as the piezo will make. Insert the wires into the hole such that
the gap is close to the center of the rear of the chamber. Test
spark with no fuel to make sure you get good ignition. If you
can, weld the cans together. The tape is slowly dissolved by
fuel.
Use:
Denatured alcohol is difficult to measure into a proper combustible
mixture. It is also much more powerful than naphtha and caused the
handle to be ripped off the chamber in our tests. Two layers of
duct tape solved this. We have had excellent repeatability with
the following fueling method with naphtha. If recently fired you
should sling the gun around in large arcs to get a fresh charge of
O2. Holding the barrel upright using a standard lighter filler
squirt for 1 second or a little less straight through the hole in
the dome of the chamber. Make sure that approximately 1 second's
worth goes through the hole in the dome. Fuel in the barrel is
useless. IMMEDIATELY insert a tennis ball into the barrel ALL THE
WAY to the dome. Wait about 5 seconds and pull the trigger.
Don't get in the way of the ball. I have a hole in the ceiling of
my garage from a shot. If you use alcohol, I'd stick to the
smaller chambers because it's a lot more powerful than naphtha.
===
3.3 Assorted Ideas
* Try a nighttime firing. These cannons, especially with starting
fluid for a fuel, as supposed to produce a decent sized flame/flash.
* Aluminum powder sprinkled in the end of the barrel is supposed to
produce a bright flash. (Probably best viewed at night)
* Try using one of the infamous dry-ice bombs in the bottom of a
larger chamber instead of a fuel that is ignited.
* I'd really like to make a reliable system for remote ignition. Any
ideas on this? I've had no success using model-rocket igniters or
steel wool. (Steel wool will sortof burn when a current is passed
through it) A spark plug may work well...
* If you get a reliable remote ignition system, sealing off both ends
of the cannon would probably produce a rather loud bang. (And
probably shrapnel)

24
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,24 @@
Courtesy Caeser's Palace 305 253 9869 _/\/\_\/\/_> The Federtion Presents:
The Tennis Ball Bomb Written By The /\/\aster-=November 24, 1984=-9:18pm
--------------------------------------------------- As we know, Tennis is
a popular sport around the world. In tennis you use these hollow round green
balls known as Tennis balls. What people do not know is that these wonderfull
little balls can used for other things(no not to jack off with). They can be
used as a handy explosive or noisemaker. You will need the following: 1.
A tennis ball (new if possible) 2. a knife 3. a box of matches
(the type that will strike on anything) 4. tape (strong) First you take
a knife and cut a small round hole on the tennis ball. Next you will cut off
the macth heads of each match and drop them into the hole until the tennis
ball is full of them. Make sure you do not drop the tennis ball because it
will not be too fun to stay in the hospital. Tape the hole up very well so
that it is air tight. Make a few of these and one day when a geek is walking
down the street or when you want to get a big bang or attention, throw the
ball. It is not too fun to be where the ball lands. To make the explosion more
powerfull, you can use gunpowder mixe[:%#CJ#1so. Have fun!!!!
The /\/\aster The Federation Call some of
these Federation systems: /\/\aster \/\/orld----213-478-5478
Caesar's Palace-------305-253-9869 PHBI------------------612-699-5657
Crystal Ship----------201-836-5010 and all the
others!!!!! ---------------------------------------
DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS......

77
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennis.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,77 @@
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
! PRESENTING !
! TENNIS BALL IMPACT BOMBS MADE !
! EASY! !
-------------------------------
OKAY, HERE IS WHAT YOU NEED FIRST:
TENNIS BALLS - ONE FOR EACH BOMB
FUN SNAPS - ABOUT A BOX
MATCHES - ABOUT ONE LARGE BOX OF "SAFTEY" MATCHES - BOUT 500
IF YOU DONT HAVE THESE WOODEN SAFTEY MATCHES, USE NORMAL MATCHES
AND BE SURE TO USE EXTRA FUN SNAPS.
DUCT TAPE
KNIFE
LIGHTER FLUID
FUNNEL
IF YOU DONT HAVE SOME OF THIS SHIT, JUST GO SNAKE IT FROM YOUR LOCAL
SAVE ON.
OKAY, FIRST - GET THE KNIFE AND CUT ABOUT A 1 INCH BY 1 INCH CROSS - HOLE
IN THE TENNIS BALL. THEN (THIS IS THE HARD PART), CUT ALL THE HEADS
OFF THE MATCHES AND PUT THEM IN A CUP (THERE SHOULD BE ENOUGH TO
FILL THE INSIDE OF THE TENNIS BALL) NOW TAKE A FUNNEL AND DROP TWO
OR THREE FUN SNAPS IN THE TENNIS BALL. USE ABOUT TEN IF YOU DO
NOT HAVE SAFTEY TIP MATCHES (THESE ARE THE MATCHES THAT WILL IGNITE
IF YOU STRIKE THEM AGAINST ANYTHING.) NOW ONCE YOU HAVE THE FUN SNAPS
IN THE TENNIS BALLS, WITH THE FUNNEL STILL IN THE TENNIS BALL, FILL
THE TENNIS BALL WITH THE MATCH HEADS. **NOTE** YOU NEED THE
INSIDE VERY COMPRESSED AND ALSO BE VERY CAREFULL!! THE BALL CAN
EXPLODE AT ANY BUMP!! NOW DUCT TAPE THE HOLE OR SLIT YOU HAVE
IN THE FUNNEL. NOW COVER THE TENNIS BALL WITH LIGHTER FLUID
OR GAS! NOW YOU HAVE A PRESSURE ACTIVATED TENNIS BALL BOMB.
JUST GO TO YOUR NEIGBHOR AND ASK TO PLAY CATCH OR TENNIS. THERE
IS LOTS OF CREATIVE STUFF YOU CAN DO WITH THIS STUFF, GET CREATIVE
SWITCH IT WITH SOME LITTLE SHIT'S BALL AT YOUR LOCAL ELEMENTRY SCHOOL SO
WHEN THEY PLAY BUTT'S UP, SOME KID'S BUTS REALY DO GO UP! OR HOW ABOUT
PUTTING IT IN YOUR TENNIS CLASS'S BALL SHACK!
FOR SOME ADDED PHUN, ADD SOME GUN POWDER OR MAGNESIUM..THIS REALY
MAKES THIS BOMB EXPLODE! OR TOTALY SEAL THE BALL IN DUCT TAPE
THIS INCREASES THE PRESSURE EXERTED AND YOU GET A BIGGER
EXPLOSION! WELL, MORE TO COME. HAVE PHUN!
*** NOTE: THE AUTHORS ARE NOT***
*** RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT LIVES***
*** ARE LOST, OR WHAT HOUSES ***
*** ARE BURNT DOWN - ECT ****
CALL THE PIT STOP:
(714)626-0747
OVER 500 ANARCHY GFILES
CARDING HEAVEN!
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm)
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845
Salted Slug Systems Strange 408-454-9368
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 415-567-7043
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102
Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 408-961-9315
My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078
Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives,
arcane knowledge, political extremism, diversive sexuality,
insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS.
Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are,
where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother.
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X

26
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tennisba.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,26 @@
Tennis Ball Bomb
Ingredients:
* Tennis (or racquet) ball
* Strike Anywhere match heads
* Gunpowder (if you're really adventurous)
* Duct tape
Instructions:
* Cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball.
* Cut off a bunch of match heads and fill the tennis ball with them
* Duct tape the tennis ball so that the match heads won't fall out, and
so the ball is secure.
* Throw it at something. When it hits, the match heads will ignite and
all burn.
Modifications:
* If you fill it 1/2 with gunpowder first, then add the match heads, it
will cause a massive explosion when it ignites! Be warned, if it is
shaken suddenly, the matches can ignite in your hand, thus exploding
the gunpowder early. I once dropped a box of strike anywhere matches
on a table and the all ignited within seconds. If gunpowder had been
in the box, it would not have been a pretty sight.

675
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomco.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,675 @@
__________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________________________________________
| \
| By: The Mentor & The Dead Kennedy |
| |
| An Anarchists-R-Us Release |
| |
| Call these fine systems: |
| |
| The Lighthouse............504-291-5690 300/1200 AE 10Meg PW:Ocean |
| The Pitstop...............504-774-7126 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg |
| Pirate Chip...............206-735-7468 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg |
| Silent World..............318-357-0858 CF 10 meg |
| The Asylum................504-831-4348 PW:Sanity |
| |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Napalm
------
Mix gasoline with dish washing detergent (Ivory Soap) untill the
solution is like honey. Use it in a bottle with a rag as molotov
cocktail or paint it on something and light it. It will burn alot
longer than regular gas.
Land Mine #1
------------
Take a soup can and line the inside with Petroleum jelly (enough so
you won't have air between the cup and can. Place a Styrofoam cup
inside the can and f)lU it with gasoline. Cover the soup can with a
sheet of Aluminum foil and tape it down so it is air tight. Place can
in a freezer over night. Dig a small hole in the ground and place the
can in it foil side up. Cover it up with with dirt about one inch
thick. Carefully place a nail in the dirt (don't break the foil!).
When someone steps on the nail and pierces the foil, the mine will
go off and so will their foot.
Land Mine #2
------------
Get a push button switch. Take the wires and connect one end to a
9 volt battery connecter and the other to a Solar Igniter. Connect
the other wire of the battery to the other wire on the solar igniter.
Connect the solar igniter to the fuse of one of your favorite bombs
(M-80, pipe bomb, etc.). Dig a hole, not too deep, but enough to
cover up the whole thing. Plant the switch under a leaf or something
and plant the bomb about 5 feet away. When the person steps on the
switch, there should be a 3 second delay, then it will blow.
Black Powder
------------
Place 5 pints of alcohol in a bucket. In another bucket, put 3 cups
of granulated potassium nitrate, 2 cups powdered wood charcoal, and
1/2 cup of powdered sulfur into the bucket. Add 1 cup of water and
stir well with a wooden stick. Place the bucket on a heat source and
add 2 more cups of water and wait for it to bubble but don't let it
boil. Remove the bucket from the heat and pour it into the alcohol
while stirring well. Let the alcohol stand for about 5 minutes. Strain
the liquid through cheesecloth to remove the powder. Wrap the cloth
around the powder and squeeze out the excess liquid. Place a piece
of screen on top of a bucket. Place a workable amount of black powder
(That black muddy looking stuff) on the screen and begin to workd it
through. Spread the end result on a piece of newspaper and let it dry
in the sunlight. Now you have black powder which can be used to make
other bombs.
Impact Bomb
-----------
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight
and pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance.
Let it dry untill it hardens up. To use it, put it in a bottle or
can and just drop it or throw it at something.
Carbide Bomb
------------
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution....
Obtain some calcium carbide. This stuff can be found at nearly any
hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel)
and put it in a glass jar with some water. Cover the jar tightly. The
carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which
is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass
with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag
nearby, you will get a nice fireball.
Exhaust Bomb
------------
Install a spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail
pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach a wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames.
Turn Signal
-----------
Detach the plastic running light (or turn signal) cover on someones
car. Break the bulb. Test the bulb with a voltage meter to make sure
it is not live. Pack the bulb with Flash Paper and replace the cover.
When the person starts his car or goes to turn, a quick burst of flame
will pop out of the back of his car making him think it is on fire.
Winger
------
This is the ultimate in assault devices. It is a large, three person
sling-shot designed for hurling water baloons up to 100 yards. They
are supposed to leave the sling-shot at 240mph but through personal
experience, I've gotten some to go at least 150-200 yards. As for the
speed, I don't know. These are good for launching almost anything
that is not motion sensitive. You can get them at some boat shops
(that's where I got mine), or you can order them from:
Winger Sports LTD.
2167 Buhl Avenue
North St. Paul Minnesota 55109
__________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________________________________________
| \
| (C) 1985/86 By Anarchists-R-Us and The Mentor |
| |
| All Rights Reserved |
| |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253
___________________________________________________________________________
/ _________________________________________________________________________ \
/ / Terrorist Home Companion ][ | | Cool Boards \ \
| | "The Day After" | | | |
| | | | Pitstop | |
| | By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | | 504-774-7126 | |
| | | | Silicon Valley | |
| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 | | 504-241-3452 | |
\ \______________________________________________________|_|________________/ /
\___________________________________________________________________________/
Intro:
It's time for another file to be written. People tell me "From your
files, you don't look very much like an Anarchist, I mean, you use
fair grammar and all..". I would just like to say that I am an
Anarchist, not an illiterate (sounds pretty fake coming from some one
in New Orleans).. Also, as you can see, I'm running out of ideas. If
anyone has any good ideas or even thoughts about making bombs, tell
me. I can take a thought and turn it into a Cat Bomb for instance..
On to the Bombs!
Shocking Experience
-------- ----------
Run a wire from spark plug #1 on your car (preferably 6 or 8 cylinder
engine) out to the bumper. Fix a rubber platform to the bumper (if you
have a metal one) and attach a coat hanger to the wire and prop it up
like a ram-rod. Next, pull up behind some fool outside of a shopping
mall waiting to pick someone up. Touch the coat hanger to the car and
rev up your engine a little. The next person to touch a metal part of
the car will get a 12 volt current through their whole body! Not enough
to kill (unless the guy has a pace maker), but enough to make them jump
and scare the shit out of 'em!
Cat Bomb
--- ----
Take a full can of tuna. Open it, remove all of the tuna and clean it
out real good. Drill a small hole in the side and then nail the can
down to a piece of plywood. Take a Champagne Party Popper and remove
the little explosive device on the string. Run this through the hole
(so the explosive in on the inside and the string on the outside) and
fill the can up with about 1/8 inch of gunpowder (Heavily salt-petered
for easy ignition). Place the lid back on and pack it down good. Use
Clay or Silicon to seal up the cracks on the sides. Put some of the
tuna back on top and place the bomb in the path of some soon to be
suprised feline! Tie a string to the igniter string and hide about
20-30 feet away. When the cat stops to have a bite, pull the string!
And if all works well, the device should explode and scare or kill
the little furry bastard.
Loud Pipe Bomb
---- ---- ----
Mix Potassium Perchlorate with some 600 mesh Aluminum Powder in a
2/1 ratio. Drill a small hole in a small piece of 1/4 in. copper
tubing. Place a fuse in the hole, pack the tube with the above
mixture, and close both ends of the tube. If you don't know what
to do from here, you shouldn't be reading this!
Bird Buster
---- ------
This isn't really a bomb, but it's fun anyway! Place some Alka-Seltzer
in someones bird feeder. When the bird eats it, it starts producing
gas. The bird can't release the gas and if he ate enough, he should
explode!
Tennis Ball
------ ----
Take a box of kitchen matches and saw all of the heads off (must be
white tips! The kind you can light on the ground!). Get a tennis ball
and pop a little hole in the top. Put the match heads in the tennis
ball untill it is full (this takes a while). Throw it at hard as you
can at your target. If the match heads were packed tight enough, it
should produce a nice sized explosion.
Time Delay
---- -----
These are the simplest forms of time delays for bombs that use fuses.
(1) Light a cigarette and break off the filter. Place the end of the
fuse in the end where the filter used to be. In about 10-15 minutes,
your device should go off. (2) Set up your bomb on a wooden platform
(When planting bombs, I always do so I don't have to waste time
setting up). Place a drop of glue on the wood and mount a party candle
on it. Lay the fuse of the bomb across the candle where it cannot move
and the flame cannot miss it. These "always" work and I have never had
any problem with either one.
Drink Fun
----- ---
If you want to have some fun and scare on of your friends, take a 9
volt battery and drop it in his or her drink. When they go to take
a sip, they'll get a small shock and probably spill their drink all
over themselves.
Locker Fun
------ ---
If you would like to get revenge on someone in school, wait till before
a real long holiday (or a weekend if you can't wait). Take an apple and
grate it on the locker vents. If the person doesn't find out, in about
a day or so, his or her lcoker should be surrounded by fruit flies and
all of their belongings should stink pretty bad!
___________________________________________________________________________
/ _________________________________________________________________________ \
/ / \ \
| | Terrorist Home Companion ][ "The Day After" By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | |
| | | |
| | Original Name (Terrorist Home Companion) By: The Mentor | |
| | | |
| | Special Thanks to: BugByter, Soft Jock, Blue Max | |
| | | |
| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | |
| | | |
| | "Where there's a will, there's a dead person" -TDK | |
\ \________________________________________________________________________/ /
\__________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253
_________________________________________________________________________
/ _______________________________________________________________________ \
| / Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the Suburbs!" \ |
| | | |
| | By: The Dead Kennedy & Repo Man Call These: | |
| | Pitstop 10m AE/CF...504-774-7126 | |
| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 Silicon Valley......504-241-3452 | |
| | | |
| \______________________________________________________________________/ |
\__________________________________________________________________________/
Dept. Store Fun
---------------
Most department stores have those little clamp on deals that they stick
on clothes to keep people from stealing them. Do what you must do to
get one of these (a friend who is employed there, hold the place up,
whatever). Find some lady with 3-5 kids, a stroller, a huge purse and
lots of other stuff that would make her look suspicious. Stumble by and
plant this little devices in one of her pockets and wait by the exit.
when she walks out.. Bells! Cops! the works.. And to top it all off,
one embarrased lady! Another way is to take the thing home and rip the
little metal thing out of it (looks like a piece of card board with
metal wrapped around it). Place it deep in your wallet or in your pants
and wait around by the entrance. When you see the same type of person
going out, you go in! Same effects. Only problem is, you have to get
back out! I suggest just leaving the little prize on someone in the
store and leaving (don't hang around, or do it at the same store twice,
the Cops may get suspicious of you).
Street Fun
----------
Take some fishing line and run it across the street. Next, hang rocks,
bolts, sinkers, etc. at windshield level. Find a telephone pole or a
tree to run it across on. Another thing to do is to use light string
to tie 2 garbage cans together and run the string across the street.
If you can't figure out what that does, you shouldn't be reading this
file!
Bolt Bomb
---------
Take a bolt, 2 washers, and 2 nuts. Screw on the first bolt, place a
washer after it. Put gun powder on the washer, put the next washer on,
and screw on the last nut so that the nut is hanging out past the end
of the bolt and the 2 washers are pushed together. Drop the bolt on the
bottom nut and it will explode. Nothing big, but it is re-usable. Kinda
like the space shuttle. Uh, scratch that last part.
Spoke Gun
---------
Take a bicycle spoke and that little nut that holds it onto the rim.
Screw the spoke into the the nut a little bit. Powderize a match head
and push it into the nut. Pack a wad of paper into the nut with another
spoke. Hold the device from the end that doesn't have the screw on it
and then hold a flame under the nut. When it gets hot enough, it will
blow up and send the paper flying. This is small scale. If you wanted
to, you could use a piece of threaded rod and a 1 1/2 inch long nut to
make the results a little more interesting. You can even add your own
projectiles. Just be sure that the paper is in tight enough to compact
the powder.
Flour & Gas
-----------
Take a new bag of ordinary household flour and pour gas on it. Light
it and drop it off of something high onto a hard surface. No explosion,
but it gives a nice efect. Kinda like an Atomic Bomb.
PineSol & Cl
------------
Wrap some cholrine up in a paper towel and tie it up tight. Next, tape
it high on the inside of a Mayonaise jar (See illus. 'A'). Fill the
bottom of the jar up (don't touch the paper!) with PineSol. Screw the
top back on and place it on the ground. When ready, knock the jar over
and run like a bat out of hell (haul the mail, cruise, mobeelin', bust
ass, do what you have to do, just get away!). It will explode, and
release alot of chlorine gas. Don't breathe it in! It will kill you!
( illustration A )
/========\ <- Lid
| *| <- Chlorine
| *| <-
| |
|'.'.'.'.| <- PineSol
|.'.'.'.'| <-
\________/ <-
Hefty Gas
---------
Fill a hefty bag with gas from a gas stove. Tape a fuse to it and light it. Have a book of matches at the end of the fuse to insure ignition.
Woof! No more hefty bag! Or if you want to add some fun to it, forget
the fuse and just shoot bottle rockets at it. Same effect.
Door Shock
----------
For this, you will need a 12 volt transformer. Strip about 1 inch off
of the end of each wire. Run the wires out of your bedroom door. Place
some electrical tape on the bottom of the outside door knob and then
tape the bare wires down so they won't touch. Disguise the wires so
they won't look suspicious. Turn on the transformer and wait for a
victim. This is the ultimate in privacy protection devices. Don't
use more than 12 volts. You can kill somebody.
_____________________________________________________________________________
/ _________________________________________________________________________ \
| ! ! |
| | Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the suburbs" | |
| | | |
| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | |
| | | |
| | "If the shoe fits, try it on the other foot, and it will feel | |
| | different" -Repo Man | |
| | | |
| | Note: The Mentor in previous files with The Dead Kennedy is >NOT< the | |
| | same Mentor who turned in those people for Phreaking. -TDK | |
| !_________________________________________________________________________! |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253
_____________________________
| Terrorist Home Companion IV |_______________________________________________
| "More Creative Ideas" |
| qp Call These qp |
| By: The CPA and The Dead Kennedy / aRu db ---- ----- db |
| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp |
| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db |
|Some ideas by: Mr. Steroid and friends qp qp |
| Typed by: CPA, Edited & Title by: TDK db db |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|
Doorstop Bomb
-------------
Take a .22 caliber bullet and remove the lead. Pack a wad of paper
in the open cavity and make sure that the gunpowder is still firmly
packed in place. Now, take a BB and tape it to the firing cap. Go
to the door stop (the spring kind with the rubber tip work great!)
and remove the rubber cap and slip the shell into the hole in the
center of the spring. Pack it in there tightly, wrap tape around the
shell if it does not fit snuggly}~PNext, replace the rubber cap if you
can. You want the end with the BB taped to it sticking out of the
stopper. When someone opens the door into the stopper, bam! You can
leave the lead in the shell if you wanna risk killing the victim or
an innocent bystander.
Flashbulb Fun
-------------
If you take a flashcube and pull out the little bulbs in it, you will
discover that when you smash the little power suckers, they go off!
They are real hot too! Just about hot enough to be an igniter.
Try taping one to a doorstop with a fuse of your favorite pyrotechnic
taped to it. Try taping one to the inside of a gas pump "Holster",
if you wish. Just make sure that the bulb will get a good smack and
it will go off. Don't try it in your hands or anything like that
because the magnesium in the bulb will burn the living hell out of
you.
House Bomb
----------
O.K. so this one is really sick. Go into the home of your victim
and tape or superglue a couple of kitchen matches to the bottom
of the door so that the tips will drag on the ground. Now tape or
glue some light grit sanding paper or emery cloth to the floor in
the path of the oncoming matches. That was easy, now you go around the
house and put out the pilot lights and crank up the gas. Get em all
out first or you may be part of the bomb. Now, get out of the house
before you sufficate! Stop!! DON'T USE THE SAME DOOR TO LEAVE!!!!
O.K. you can sit back and wait for the bar-b-que family to get home
and watch the fireworks or you can move away to the nearest friendly
neighboring country. If you do decide to stay, don't stand too close,
or you may end up a tater tot.
Wimp Startler
-------------
Simple, cheap, safe. Blow up a clear balloon inside of a light fixture
so that it touches the lightbulb. If possible, have it on top of the
bulb because heat rises and will pop the balloon sooner (before the
geek says, "Gee, its kinda not as bright as it used to be." When the
light goes on, the balloon goes off. Nothing great but you won't go
to jail for it.
Light Igniter
------------
If you smash even a burned out light bulb and twist the ends of the
element together, it makes a beauty of a starter for any fire needed
explosion device. Just tape on the old fuse and leave.
Starter Startler
---------------
You can take a wire and run it from the coil in your pals car to the
steering wheel (if it's metal) or to the ignition key slot. When quizmo
goes to start his car- buzzzzzzzzzzzzzap! Nothing like smoking fingers!
This one has interesting side effects on pace maker patients.
Party Balloom
-------------
Before your next party where smoking and drinking will occur (I do so
hate cigarette smoke), fill up a few balloms with natural gas from the
stove or bar-b-que. When you pals (or enemies) get loaded and start
popping the ballons, like they always will. Some dork will decide to
pop a few with his stogey. If all goes well, one of them might give him
a little surprise.
Auto Annihilator
----------------
You owners of pick up trucks are already in possesion of urban assault
vehicles. All you need is some nice size rollable objects, some cord,
and some duct tape. Tape over the latch that hold the tailgate shut.
Tie a cord from the inside of the cab to the tailgate to hold it
closed. Now, put a bowling ball, shopping cart, tire, large diameter
steel pipe, etc. in the bed of the truck. It must be large enough to
roll over the gap between the tailgate and the bed. So now your
cruising along the interstate at 65mph and some prick pisses you off.
Just pull ahead of him, floor it, and release the tailgate cord.
Now look in the rearview mirror. Where is the asshole? Oh, that's him
spinning out of control with a grocery cart stuck in his grill. Or
is that him over there in the ditch along side of the road. No!
wait! that's him speeding up to catch you! No problem. You were smart
enough to have a few more goodies tied to another cord, like a bowling
ball. Let her rip! Wham! Yeah, that's him with the broken steering
rods smashing into the divider. I knew he was back there somewhere.
Try it going up a steep hill or a bridge to take out more happy
motorists.
Flare Fun
---------
Take the glass off of a light bulb and fill it with the yellow
make from grinding up the inside of a road flare. Tape the glass
back on and screw it back into the socket. Give a new meaning to
the "Red Light" district.
Non-Handymans Bomb
------------------
Go to the nearest auto parts store and pick up a pack of road flares
and an aerosol can of starter fluid. Take the flare and duct tape it
to the can so that the first inch or so of the flare will burn with
out touching the side of the can. When you wanna blow it up, use the
handy little scratch-n-start piece of the flare and let it blow.
Not too difficult, eh?
Fun With Cyano
--------------
You call it superglue, we call it fun. Any Cyanoacrilate glue will
do the job. It is the best prankster material ever produced by a
manufacturer. Here are a few ideas to get you started. Glue the door
to the school shut. Glue car doors, car locks, and car trunks. Glue
money to the floor at the mall. On a busy day at the mall, put some on
a coin and roll it infront of some lozers. It won't dry until it hits
their skin because it needs moisture to dry. Spill some on your enemies
pants. Glue the dictionary shut. Glue books to the table at t8e#
library. Glue windsheild wipers down. Glue gaps caps on. The
possibilities are endless. Cyano takes a while to dry on metal
surfaces. When you put a few drops of cyano in baking soda or on saw
dust, it turns to a rock hard substance. Fill the desired spot with
the powder, and apply as much glue as necessary.
_____________________________________________________________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion IV "More Creative Ideas" \
| (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us |
| "Lead us not into temptation.. Tell us where it is, we'll find it" -TDK |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253
_____________________________
| Terrorist Home Companion V |_______________________________________________
| "The day we make contact" |
| qp Call These qp |
| By: Soft Jock and The Dead Kennedy db ---- ----- db |
| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp |
| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db |
|This file written in remembrance of Bug qp both 3/12 10m BBS/AE/CF qp |
| Byter and Soft Jock (MCI, R.I.P.) db db |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|
With World War III knocking on our door, I feel it is every persons
right to be able to protect and defend his or her's investments. With the
Government making it almost impossible for the average person to have a decent
weapon, I guess that only means that you will have to make them yourself. So,
I've come back with a few more ideas, both serious and prank.
Fire Grenade Launcher
---------------------
First, you will need a 12 or 16 gauge shotgun. You must mount two
T=ygs to it and make it like a tripod with the stock being the third
leg. Take a shell and hacksaw off the front part with the shot in
it. Place the modified shell in the chamber. Take a long piece of
circular wood (like a broomstick) and shove it in through the barell.
Make sure it is at least touching the shell (don't push too hard
unless you want a broomstick through your head!). Next, mount a
small rubber platform on the end of the stick. Securely fasten a
molotov cocktail the the platform (coke bottle filled with gas,
oil, detergent, and an oily rag in the top). Light the rag and pull
the trigger. With practice, you can shoot this thing wih amazing
accuracy.
Explosive Ideas
---------------
Everyone has made a bomb and just lit it and watched it go boom.
there are ways to get more out of your boom. If you take something
like sandbags or bags of cement and lay them on top or on the sides
of your bomb, the result will be much more damaging and will create
a smoke screen (if you use something like cement or flour and not
rocks or sand).
Itching Powder
--------------
I know this is no Anarchy, but ideas are running low. This, however,
makes a great practical joke! Get some fiberglass insulation (either
by punching a hole in your wall and removing it, or by going to a
construction sight and lifting it). Grind it up good (for large
amounts, I suggest something like a blender). Now just place this
pink powder anywhere you wish. This is better than the stuff you can
buy in the store. I got some asshole in the movies and he itched
all throughout the show. Don't ask me why I had itching powder in
the movies, but it did work.
Rain Detination
---------------
Here's an easy way to let mother nature help you set off a few bombs
(they must be ELECTRICAL). If it's raining out, place 2 test leads
into a cup (or 2 wires), each on opposite sides, so that they are
touching the bottom of the cup. Next place some metalic substance
(that DOES conduct electricity) in the bottom (not too much! Don't
connect the wires!). Wire up your favorite bomb around this leaving
the only break in the circuit in the bottom of the cup. When it rains
enough, the water will begin to fill cup, mix with the metal, and act
as a bridge for the electricity. If all was set up correctly, your
device should go off. In the event of no rain, just use one of those
Solar Cells (obtainable from Radio Shack) and connect it to a solar
igniter (this must be a FIRE type bomb with a fuse!). Connect the
igniter to the fuse, set the bomb in a shady place (that is soon
to be in the light), and leave. All should go as planned.
Whistler Bomb
-------------
Do you have one of those asshole coaches in your school always
blowing that damn whistle at you? If so, here's an idea that will
shut his ass up for a while. First, make a small batch of your
favorite friction sensitive explosive (see early "Terrorist Home
Companion" files written by me and a few other aRu members). Fill
his whistle up with it (not a whole bunch or he'll notice. Just enough
so it will make a boom he will never forget. Now, go be an asshole on
the field and wait for his to give it a good blow. "Gee coach, how did
you get shrapnel in your face?"
Exploding Pipe
--------------
So you have that asshole teacher or mean old man on the block who
smokes a (cough, cough) pipe. Or maybe even your favorite weedhead.
Steal the guys pipe (like from his car). If it is a good pipe, you
should be able to pull it into 2 pieces. Clean it out (with a pipe
cleaner, they're cheap). Run a fuse from the bowl back to where the
pipe goes back together. Place a small explosive inside the tube
where the smoke comes through to the mouth and wire it up to the
fuse. Next, replace the burnt tobacco that was in the bowl and put
it back where you got it from. "What's wrong, not getting enough
drag? Maybe you should suck harder. Boom!"
_____________________________________________________________________________
/ _________________________________________________________________________ \
| ! ! |
| | Terrorist Home Companion part V "The day we make contact" | |
| | | |
| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | |
| | | |
| | "Anarchists don't die, they just lose their cars and re-group" | |
| | -Soft Jock | |
| !_________________________________________________________________________! |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253


125
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx1.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,125 @@
__________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________________________________________
| \
| By: The Mentor & The Dead Kennedy |
| |
| An Anarchists-R-Us Release |
| |
| Call these fine systems: |
| |
| The Lighthouse............504-291-5690 300/1200 AE 10Meg PW:Ocean |
| The Pitstop...............504-774-7126 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg |
| Pirate Chip...............206-735-7468 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg |
| Silent World..............318-357-0858 CF 10 meg |
| The Asylum................504-831-4348 PW:Sanity |
| |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Napalm
------
Mix gasoline with dish washing detergent (Ivory Soap) untill the
solution is like honey. Use it in a bottle with a rag as molotov
cocktail or paint it on something and light it. It will burn alot
longer than regular gas.
Land Mine #1
------------
Take a soup can and line the inside with Petroleum jelly (enough so
you won't have air between the cup and can. Place a Styrofoam cup
inside the can and f)lU it with gasoline. Cover the soup can with a
sheet of Aluminum foil and tape it down so it is air tight. Place can
in a freezer over night. Dig a small hole in the ground and place the
can in it foil side up. Cover it up with with dirt about one inch
thick. Carefully place a nail in the dirt (don't break the foil!).
When someone steps on the nail and pierces the foil, the mine will
go off and so will their foot.
Land Mine #2
------------
Get a push button switch. Take the wires and connect one end to a
9 volt battery connecter and the other to a Solar Igniter. Connect
the other wire of the battery to the other wire on the solar igniter.
Connect the solar igniter to the fuse of one of your favorite bombs
(M-80, pipe bomb, etc.). Dig a hole, not too deep, but enough to
cover up the whole thing. Plant the switch under a leaf or something
and plant the bomb about 5 feet away. When the person steps on the
switch, there should be a 3 second delay, then it will blow.
Black Powder
------------
Place 5 pints of alcohol in a bucket. In another bucket, put 3 cups
of granulated potassium nitrate, 2 cups powdered wood charcoal, and
1/2 cup of powdered sulfur into the bucket. Add 1 cup of water and
stir well with a wooden stick. Place the bucket on a heat source and
add 2 more cups of water and wait for it to bubble but don't let it
boil. Remove the bucket from the heat and pour it into the alcohol
while stirring well. Let the alcohol stand for about 5 minutes. Strain
the liquid through cheesecloth to remove the powder. Wrap the cloth
around the powder and squeeze out the excess liquid. Place a piece
of screen on top of a bucket. Place a workable amount of black powder
(That black muddy looking stuff) on the screen and begin to workd it
through. Spread the end result on a piece of newspaper and let it dry
in the sunlight. Now you have black powder which can be used to make
other bombs.
Impact Bomb
-----------
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight
and pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance.
Let it dry untill it hardens up. To use it, put it in a bottle or
can and just drop it or throw it at something.
Carbide Bomb
------------
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution....
Obtain some calcium carbide. This stuff can be found at nearly any
hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel)
and put it in a glass jar with some water. Cover the jar tightly. The
carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which
is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass
with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag
nearby, you will get a nice fireball.
Exhaust Bomb
------------
Install a spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail
pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach a wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames.
Turn Signal
-----------
Detach the plastic running light (or turn signal) cover on someones
car. Break the bulb. Test the bulb with a voltage meter to make sure
it is not live. Pack the bulb with Flash Paper and replace the cover.
When the person starts his car or goes to turn, a quick burst of flame
will pop out of the back of his car making him think it is on fire.
Winger
------
This is the ultimate in assault devices. It is a large, three person
sling-shot designed for hurling water baloons up to 100 yards. They
are supposed to leave the sling-shot at 240mph but through personal
experience, I've gotten some to go at least 150-200 yards. As for the
speed, I don't know. These are good for launching almost anything
that is not motion sensitive. You can get them at some boat shops
(that's where I got mine), or you can order them from:
Winger Sports LTD.
2167 Buhl Avenue
North St. Paul Minnesota 55109
__________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________________________________________
| \
| (C) 1985/86 By Anarchists-R-Us and The Mentor |
| |
| All Rights Reserved |
| |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253

132
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx2.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,132 @@
___________________________________________________________________________
/ _________________________________________________________________________ \
/ / Terrorist Home Companion ][ | | Cool Boards \ \
| | "The Day After" | | | |
| | | | Pitstop | |
| | By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | | 504-774-7126 | |
| | | | Silicon Valley | |
| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 | | 504-241-3452 | |
\ \______________________________________________________|_|________________/ /
\___________________________________________________________________________/
Intro:
It's time for another file to be written. People tell me "From your
files, you don't look very much like an Anarchist, I mean, you use
fair grammar and all..". I would just like to say that I am an
Anarchist, not an illiterate (sounds pretty fake coming from some one
in New Orleans).. Also, as you can see, I'm running out of ideas. If
anyone has any good ideas or even thoughts about making bombs, tell
me. I can take a thought and turn it into a Cat Bomb for instance..
On to the Bombs!
Shocking Experience
-------- ----------
Run a wire from spark plug #1 on your car (preferably 6 or 8 cylinder
engine) out to the bumper. Fix a rubber platform to the bumper (if you
have a metal one) and attach a coat hanger to the wire and prop it up
like a ram-rod. Next, pull up behind some fool outside of a shopping
mall waiting to pick someone up. Touch the coat hanger to the car and
rev up your engine a little. The next person to touch a metal part of
the car will get a 12 volt current through their whole body! Not enough
to kill (unless the guy has a pace maker), but enough to make them jump
and scare the shit out of 'em!
Cat Bomb
--- ----
Take a full can of tuna. Open it, remove all of the tuna and clean it
out real good. Drill a small hole in the side and then nail the can
down to a piece of plywood. Take a Champagne Party Popper and remove
the little explosive device on the string. Run this through the hole
(so the explosive in on the inside and the string on the outside) and
fill the can up with about 1/8 inch of gunpowder (Heavily salt-petered
for easy ignition). Place the lid back on and pack it down good. Use
Clay or Silicon to seal up the cracks on the sides. Put some of the
tuna back on top and place the bomb in the path of some soon to be
suprised feline! Tie a string to the igniter string and hide about
20-30 feet away. When the cat stops to have a bite, pull the string!
And if all works well, the device should explode and scare or kill
the little furry bastard.
Loud Pipe Bomb
---- ---- ----
Mix Potassium Perchlorate with some 600 mesh Aluminum Powder in a
2/1 ratio. Drill a small hole in a small piece of 1/4 in. copper
tubing. Place a fuse in the hole, pack the tube with the above
mixture, and close both ends of the tube. If you don't know what
to do from here, you shouldn't be reading this!
Bird Buster
---- ------
This isn't really a bomb, but it's fun anyway! Place some Alka-Seltzer
in someones bird feeder. When the bird eats it, it starts producing
gas. The bird can't release the gas and if he ate enough, he should
explode!
Tennis Ball
------ ----
Take a box of kitchen matches and saw all of the heads off (must be
white tips! The kind you can light on the ground!). Get a tennis ball
and pop a little hole in the top. Put the match heads in the tennis
ball untill it is full (this takes a while). Throw it at hard as you
can at your target. If the match heads were packed tight enough, it
should produce a nice sized explosion.
Time Delay
---- -----
These are the simplest forms of time delays for bombs that use fuses.
(1) Light a cigarette and break off the filter. Place the end of the
fuse in the end where the filter used to be. In about 10-15 minutes,
your device should go off. (2) Set up your bomb on a wooden platform
(When planting bombs, I always do so I don't have to waste time
setting up). Place a drop of glue on the wood and mount a party candle
on it. Lay the fuse of the bomb across the candle where it cannot move
and the flame cannot miss it. These "always" work and I have never had
any problem with either one.
Drink Fun
----- ---
If you want to have some fun and scare on of your friends, take a 9
volt battery and drop it in his or her drink. When they go to take
a sip, they'll get a small shock and probably spill their drink all
over themselves.
Locker Fun
------ ---
If you would like to get revenge on someone in school, wait till before
a real long holiday (or a weekend if you can't wait). Take an apple and
grate it on the locker vents. If the person doesn't find out, in about
a day or so, his or her lcoker should be surrounded by fruit flies and
all of their belongings should stink pretty bad!
___________________________________________________________________________
/ _________________________________________________________________________ \
/ / \ \
| | Terrorist Home Companion ][ "The Day After" By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | |
| | | |
| | Original Name (Terrorist Home Companion) By: The Mentor | |
| | | |
| | Special Thanks to: BugByter, Soft Jock, Blue Max | |
| | | |
| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | |
| | | |
| | "Where there's a will, there's a dead person" -TDK | |
\ \________________________________________________________________________/ /
\__________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253

129
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx3.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,129 @@
_________________________________________________________________________
/ _______________________________________________________________________ \
| / Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the Suburbs!" \ |
| | | |
| | By: The Dead Kennedy & Repo Man Call These: | |
| | Pitstop 10m AE/CF...504-774-7126 | |
| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 Silicon Valley......504-241-3452 | |
| | | |
| \______________________________________________________________________/ |
\__________________________________________________________________________/
Dept. Store Fun
---------------
Most department stores have those little clamp on deals that they stick
on clothes to keep people from stealing them. Do what you must do to
get one of these (a friend who is employed there, hold the place up,
whatever). Find some lady with 3-5 kids, a stroller, a huge purse and
lots of other stuff that would make her look suspicious. Stumble by and
plant this little devices in one of her pockets and wait by the exit.
when she walks out.. Bells! Cops! the works.. And to top it all off,
one embarrased lady! Another way is to take the thing home and rip the
little metal thing out of it (looks like a piece of card board with
metal wrapped around it). Place it deep in your wallet or in your pants
and wait around by the entrance. When you see the same type of person
going out, you go in! Same effects. Only problem is, you have to get
back out! I suggest just leaving the little prize on someone in the
store and leaving (don't hang around, or do it at the same store twice,
the Cops may get suspicious of you).
Street Fun
----------
Take some fishing line and run it across the street. Next, hang rocks,
bolts, sinkers, etc. at windshield level. Find a telephone pole or a
tree to run it across on. Another thing to do is to use light string
to tie 2 garbage cans together and run the string across the street.
If you can't figure out what that does, you shouldn't be reading this
file!
Bolt Bomb
---------
Take a bolt, 2 washers, and 2 nuts. Screw on the first bolt, place a
washer after it. Put gun powder on the washer, put the next washer on,
and screw on the last nut so that the nut is hanging out past the end
of the bolt and the 2 washers are pushed together. Drop the bolt on the
bottom nut and it will explode. Nothing big, but it is re-usable. Kinda
like the space shuttle. Uh, scratch that last part.
Spoke Gun
---------
Take a bicycle spoke and that little nut that holds it onto the rim.
Screw the spoke into the the nut a little bit. Powderize a match head
and push it into the nut. Pack a wad of paper into the nut with another
spoke. Hold the device from the end that doesn't have the screw on it
and then hold a flame under the nut. When it gets hot enough, it will
blow up and send the paper flying. This is small scale. If you wanted
to, you could use a piece of threaded rod and a 1 1/2 inch long nut to
make the results a little more interesting. You can even add your own
projectiles. Just be sure that the paper is in tight enough to compact
the powder.
Flour & Gas
-----------
Take a new bag of ordinary household flour and pour gas on it. Light
it and drop it off of something high onto a hard surface. No explosion,
but it gives a nice efect. Kinda like an Atomic Bomb.
PineSol & Cl
------------
Wrap some cholrine up in a paper towel and tie it up tight. Next, tape
it high on the inside of a Mayonaise jar (See illus. 'A'). Fill the
bottom of the jar up (don't touch the paper!) with PineSol. Screw the
top back on and place it on the ground. When ready, knock the jar over
and run like a bat out of hell (haul the mail, cruise, mobeelin', bust
ass, do what you have to do, just get away!). It will explode, and
release alot of chlorine gas. Don't breathe it in! It will kill you!
( illustration A )
/========\ <- Lid
| *| <- Chlorine
| *| <-
| |
|'.'.'.'.| <- PineSol
|.'.'.'.'| <-
\________/ <-
Hefty Gas
---------
Fill a hefty bag with gas from a gas stove. Tape a fuse to it and light it. Have a book of matches at the end of the fuse to insure ignition.
Woof! No more hefty bag! Or if you want to add some fun to it, forget
the fuse and just shoot bottle rockets at it. Same effect.
Door Shock
----------
For this, you will need a 12 volt transformer. Strip about 1 inch off
of the end of each wire. Run the wires out of your bedroom door. Place
some electrical tape on the bottom of the outside door knob and then
tape the bare wires down so they won't touch. Disguise the wires so
they won't look suspicious. Turn on the transformer and wait for a
victim. This is the ultimate in privacy protection devices. Don't
use more than 12 volts. You can kill somebody.
_____________________________________________________________________________
/ _________________________________________________________________________ \
| ! ! |
| | Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the suburbs" | |
| | | |
| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | |
| | | |
| | "If the shoe fits, try it on the other foot, and it will feel | |
| | different" -Repo Man | |
| | | |
| | Note: The Mentor in previous files with The Dead Kennedy is >NOT< the | |
| | same Mentor who turned in those people for Phreaking. -TDK | |
| !_________________________________________________________________________! |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253

167
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx4.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,167 @@
_____________________________
| Terrorist Home Companion IV |_______________________________________________
| "More Creative Ideas" |
| qp Call These qp |
| By: The CPA and The Dead Kennedy / aRu db ---- ----- db |
| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp |
| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db |
|Some ideas by: Mr. Steroid and friends qp qp |
| Typed by: CPA, Edited & Title by: TDK db db |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|
Doorstop Bomb
-------------
Take a .22 caliber bullet and remove the lead. Pack a wad of paper
in the open cavity and make sure that the gunpowder is still firmly
packed in place. Now, take a BB and tape it to the firing cap. Go
to the door stop (the spring kind with the rubber tip work great!)
and remove the rubber cap and slip the shell into the hole in the
center of the spring. Pack it in there tightly, wrap tape around the
shell if it does not fit snuggly}~PNext, replace the rubber cap if you
can. You want the end with the BB taped to it sticking out of the
stopper. When someone opens the door into the stopper, bam! You can
leave the lead in the shell if you wanna risk killing the victim or
an innocent bystander.
Flashbulb Fun
-------------
If you take a flashcube and pull out the little bulbs in it, you will
discover that when you smash the little power suckers, they go off!
They are real hot too! Just about hot enough to be an igniter.
Try taping one to a doorstop with a fuse of your favorite pyrotechnic
taped to it. Try taping one to the inside of a gas pump "Holster",
if you wish. Just make sure that the bulb will get a good smack and
it will go off. Don't try it in your hands or anything like that
because the magnesium in the bulb will burn the living hell out of
you.
House Bomb
----------
O.K. so this one is really sick. Go into the home of your victim
and tape or superglue a couple of kitchen matches to the bottom
of the door so that the tips will drag on the ground. Now tape or
glue some light grit sanding paper or emery cloth to the floor in
the path of the oncoming matches. That was easy, now you go around the
house and put out the pilot lights and crank up the gas. Get em all
out first or you may be part of the bomb. Now, get out of the house
before you sufficate! Stop!! DON'T USE THE SAME DOOR TO LEAVE!!!!
O.K. you can sit back and wait for the bar-b-que family to get home
and watch the fireworks or you can move away to the nearest friendly
neighboring country. If you do decide to stay, don't stand too close,
or you may end up a tater tot.
Wimp Startler
-------------
Simple, cheap, safe. Blow up a clear balloon inside of a light fixture
so that it touches the lightbulb. If possible, have it on top of the
bulb because heat rises and will pop the balloon sooner (before the
geek says, "Gee, its kinda not as bright as it used to be." When the
light goes on, the balloon goes off. Nothing great but you won't go
to jail for it.
Light Igniter
------------
If you smash even a burned out light bulb and twist the ends of the
element together, it makes a beauty of a starter for any fire needed
explosion device. Just tape on the old fuse and leave.
Starter Startler
---------------
You can take a wire and run it from the coil in your pals car to the
steering wheel (if it's metal) or to the ignition key slot. When quizmo
goes to start his car- buzzzzzzzzzzzzzap! Nothing like smoking fingers!
This one has interesting side effects on pace maker patients.
Party Balloom
-------------
Before your next party where smoking and drinking will occur (I do so
hate cigarette smoke), fill up a few balloms with natural gas from the
stove or bar-b-que. When you pals (or enemies) get loaded and start
popping the ballons, like they always will. Some dork will decide to
pop a few with his stogey. If all goes well, one of them might give him
a little surprise.
Auto Annihilator
----------------
You owners of pick up trucks are already in possesion of urban assault
vehicles. All you need is some nice size rollable objects, some cord,
and some duct tape. Tape over the latch that hold the tailgate shut.
Tie a cord from the inside of the cab to the tailgate to hold it
closed. Now, put a bowling ball, shopping cart, tire, large diameter
steel pipe, etc. in the bed of the truck. It must be large enough to
roll over the gap between the tailgate and the bed. So now your
cruising along the interstate at 65mph and some prick pisses you off.
Just pull ahead of him, floor it, and release the tailgate cord.
Now look in the rearview mirror. Where is the asshole? Oh, that's him
spinning out of control with a grocery cart stuck in his grill. Or
is that him over there in the ditch along side of the road. No!
wait! that's him speeding up to catch you! No problem. You were smart
enough to have a few more goodies tied to another cord, like a bowling
ball. Let her rip! Wham! Yeah, that's him with the broken steering
rods smashing into the divider. I knew he was back there somewhere.
Try it going up a steep hill or a bridge to take out more happy
motorists.
Flare Fun
---------
Take the glass off of a light bulb and fill it with the yellow
make from grinding up the inside of a road flare. Tape the glass
back on and screw it back into the socket. Give a new meaning to
the "Red Light" district.
Non-Handymans Bomb
------------------
Go to the nearest auto parts store and pick up a pack of road flares
and an aerosol can of starter fluid. Take the flare and duct tape it
to the can so that the first inch or so of the flare will burn with
out touching the side of the can. When you wanna blow it up, use the
handy little scratch-n-start piece of the flare and let it blow.
Not too difficult, eh?
Fun With Cyano
--------------
You call it superglue, we call it fun. Any Cyanoacrilate glue will
do the job. It is the best prankster material ever produced by a
manufacturer. Here are a few ideas to get you started. Glue the door
to the school shut. Glue car doors, car locks, and car trunks. Glue
money to the floor at the mall. On a busy day at the mall, put some on
a coin and roll it infront of some lozers. It won't dry until it hits
their skin because it needs moisture to dry. Spill some on your enemies
pants. Glue the dictionary shut. Glue books to the table at t8e#
library. Glue windsheild wipers down. Glue gaps caps on. The
possibilities are endless. Cyano takes a while to dry on metal
surfaces. When you put a few drops of cyano in baking soda or on saw
dust, it turns to a rock hard substance. Fill the desired spot with
the powder, and apply as much glue as necessary.
_____________________________________________________________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion IV "More Creative Ideas" \
| (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us |
| "Lead us not into temptation.. Tell us where it is, we'll find it" -TDK |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253

121
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terhomcotx5.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,121 @@
_____________________________
| Terrorist Home Companion V |_______________________________________________
| "The day we make contact" |
| qp Call These qp |
| By: Soft Jock and The Dead Kennedy db ---- ----- db |
| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp |
| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db |
|This file written in remembrance of Bug qp both 3/12 10m BBS/AE/CF qp |
| Byter and Soft Jock (MCI, R.I.P.) db db |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|
With World War III knocking on our door, I feel it is every persons
right to be able to protect and defend his or her's investments. With the
Government making it almost impossible for the average person to have a decent
weapon, I guess that only means that you will have to make them yourself. So,
I've come back with a few more ideas, both serious and prank.
Fire Grenade Launcher
---------------------
First, you will need a 12 or 16 gauge shotgun. You must mount two
T=ygs to it and make it like a tripod with the stock being the third
leg. Take a shell and hacksaw off the front part with the shot in
it. Place the modified shell in the chamber. Take a long piece of
circular wood (like a broomstick) and shove it in through the barell.
Make sure it is at least touching the shell (don't push too hard
unless you want a broomstick through your head!). Next, mount a
small rubber platform on the end of the stick. Securely fasten a
molotov cocktail the the platform (coke bottle filled with gas,
oil, detergent, and an oily rag in the top). Light the rag and pull
the trigger. With practice, you can shoot this thing wih amazing
accuracy.
Explosive Ideas
---------------
Everyone has made a bomb and just lit it and watched it go boom.
there are ways to get more out of your boom. If you take something
like sandbags or bags of cement and lay them on top or on the sides
of your bomb, the result will be much more damaging and will create
a smoke screen (if you use something like cement or flour and not
rocks or sand).
Itching Powder
--------------
I know this is no Anarchy, but ideas are running low. This, however,
makes a great practical joke! Get some fiberglass insulation (either
by punching a hole in your wall and removing it, or by going to a
construction sight and lifting it). Grind it up good (for large
amounts, I suggest something like a blender). Now just place this
pink powder anywhere you wish. This is better than the stuff you can
buy in the store. I got some asshole in the movies and he itched
all throughout the show. Don't ask me why I had itching powder in
the movies, but it did work.
Rain Detination
---------------
Here's an easy way to let mother nature help you set off a few bombs
(they must be ELECTRICAL). If it's raining out, place 2 test leads
into a cup (or 2 wires), each on opposite sides, so that they are
touching the bottom of the cup. Next place some metalic substance
(that DOES conduct electricity) in the bottom (not too much! Don't
connect the wires!). Wire up your favorite bomb around this leaving
the only break in the circuit in the bottom of the cup. When it rains
enough, the water will begin to fill cup, mix with the metal, and act
as a bridge for the electricity. If all was set up correctly, your
device should go off. In the event of no rain, just use one of those
Solar Cells (obtainable from Radio Shack) and connect it to a solar
igniter (this must be a FIRE type bomb with a fuse!). Connect the
igniter to the fuse, set the bomb in a shady place (that is soon
to be in the light), and leave. All should go as planned.
Whistler Bomb
-------------
Do you have one of those asshole coaches in your school always
blowing that damn whistle at you? If so, here's an idea that will
shut his ass up for a while. First, make a small batch of your
favorite friction sensitive explosive (see early "Terrorist Home
Companion" files written by me and a few other aRu members). Fill
his whistle up with it (not a whole bunch or he'll notice. Just enough
so it will make a boom he will never forget. Now, go be an asshole on
the field and wait for his to give it a good blow. "Gee coach, how did
you get shrapnel in your face?"
Exploding Pipe
--------------
So you have that asshole teacher or mean old man on the block who
smokes a (cough, cough) pipe. Or maybe even your favorite weedhead.
Steal the guys pipe (like from his car). If it is a good pipe, you
should be able to pull it into 2 pieces. Clean it out (with a pipe
cleaner, they're cheap). Run a fuse from the bowl back to where the
pipe goes back together. Place a small explosive inside the tube
where the smoke comes through to the mouth and wire it up to the
fuse. Next, replace the burnt tobacco that was in the bowl and put
it back where you got it from. "What's wrong, not getting enough
drag? Maybe you should suck harder. Boom!"
_____________________________________________________________________________
/ _________________________________________________________________________ \
| ! ! |
| | Terrorist Home Companion part V "The day we make contact" | |
| | | |
| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | |
| | | |
| | "Anarchists don't die, they just lose their cars and re-group" | |
| | -Soft Jock | |
| !_________________________________________________________________________! |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253

3854
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terrhbk.txt Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

129
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.1 Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,129 @@
__________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion \_________________________________________________
| \
| By: The Mentor & The Dead Kennedy |
| |
| An Anarchists-R-Us Release |
| |
| Call these fine systems: |
| |
| The Lost City of Atlantis 703-327-6144 300/19.2 Amiga 45M |
| The Lighthouse............504-291-5690 300/1200 AE 10Meg PW:Ocean |
| The Pitstop...............504-774-7126 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg |
| Pirate Chip...............206-735-7468 300/1200/AE/CF/BBS 10Meg |
| Silent World..............318-357-0858 CF 10 meg |
| The Asylum................504-831-4348 PW:Sanity |
| |
\____________________________________________________________________________/
Napalm
------
Mix gasoline with dish washing detergent (Ivory Soap) untill the
solution is like honey. Use it in a bottle with a rag as molotov
cocktail or paint it on something and light it. It will burn alot
longer than regular gas.
Land Mine #1
------------
Take a soup can and line the inside with Petroleum jelly (enough so
you won't have air between the cup and can. Place a Styrofoam cup
inside the can and f)lU it with gasoline. Cover the soup can with a
sheet of Aluminum foil and tape it down so it is air tight. Place can
in a freezer over night. Dig a small hole in the ground and place the
can in it foil side up. Cover it up with with dirt about one inch
thick. Carefully place a nail in the dirt (don't break the foil!).
When someone steps on the nail and pierces the foil, the mine will
go off and so will their foot.
Land Mine #2
------------
Get a push button switch. Take the wires and connect one end to a
9 volt battery connecter and the other to a Solar Igniter. Connect
the other wire of the battery to the other wire on the solar igniter.
Connect the solar igniter to the fuse of one of your favorite bombs
(M-80, pipe bomb, etc.). Dig a hole, not too deep, but enough to
cover up the whole thing. Plant the switch under a leaf or something
and plant the bomb about 5 feet away. When the person steps on the
switch, there should be a 3 second delay, then it will blow.
Black Powder
------------
Place 5 pints of alcohol in a bucket. In another bucket, put 3 cups
of granulated potassium nitrate, 2 cups powdered wood charcoal, and
1/2 cup of powdered sulfur into the bucket. Add 1 cup of water and
stir well with a wooden stick. Place the bucket on a heat source and
add 2 more cups of water and wait for it to bubble but don't let it
boil. Remove the bucket from the heat and pour it into the alcohol
while stirring well. Let the alcohol stand for about 5 minutes. Strain
the liquid through cheesecloth to remove the powder. Wrap the cloth
around the powder and squeeze out the excess liquid. Place a piece
of screen on top of a bucket. Place a workable amount of black powder
(That black muddy looking stuff) on the screen and begin to workd it
through. Spread the end result on a piece of newspaper and let it dry
in the sunlight. Now you have black powder which can be used to make
other bombs.
Impact Bomb
-----------
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight
and pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance.
Let it dry untill it hardens up. To use it, put it in a bottle or
can and just drop it or throw it at something.
Carbide Bomb
------------
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution....
Obtain some calcium carbide. This stuff can be found at nearly any
hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel)
and put it in a glass jar with some water. Cover the jar tightly. The
carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which
is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass
with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag
nearby, you will get a nice fireball.
Exhaust Bomb
------------
Install a spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail
pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach a wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames.
Turn Signal
-----------
Detach the plastic running light (or turn signal) cover on someones
car. Break the bulb. Test the bulb with a voltage meter to make sure
it is not live. Pack the bulb with Flash Paper and replace the cover.
When the person starts his car or goes to turn, a quick burst of flame
will pop out of the back of his car making him think it is on fire.
Winger
------
This is the ultimate in assault devices. It is a large, three person
sling-shot designed for hurling water baloons up to 100 yards. They
are supposed to leave the sling-shot at 240mph but through personal
experience, I've gotten some to go at least 150-200 yards. As for the
speed, I don't know. These are good for launching almost anything
that is not motion sensitive. You can get them at some boat shops
(that's where I got mine), or you can order them from:
Winger Sports LTD.
2167 Buhl Avenue
North St. Paul Minnesota 55109
__________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion \_________________________________________________
| \
| (C) 1985/86 By Anarchists-R-Us and The Mentor |
| |
| All Rights Reserved |
| |
\____________________________________________________________________________/


142
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.2 Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,142 @@
__________________________________________________________________________
/ ________________________________________________________________________ \
/ / Terrorist Home Companion ][ | | Cool Boards \ \
| | "The Day After" | | | |
| | | | Pitstop | |
| | By: The Dead Kennedy / aRu | | 504-774-7126 | |
| | | | Silicon Valley | |
| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 | | 504-241-3452 | |
\ \______________________________________________________|_|________________/ /
\___________________________________________________________________________/
Intro:
It's time for another file to be written. People tell me "From your
files, you don't look very much like an Anarchist, I mean, you use
fair grammar and all..". I would just like to say that I am an
Anarchist, not an illiterate (sounds pretty fake coming from some one
in New Orleans).. Also, as you can see, I'm running out of ideas. If
anyone has any good ideas or even thoughts about making bombs, tell
me. I can take a thought and turn it into a Cat Bomb for instance..
On to the Bombs!
Shocking Experience
-------- ----------
Run a wire from spark plug #1 on your car (preferably 6 or 8 cylinder
engine) out to the bumper. Fix a rubber platform to the bumper (if you
have a metal one) and attach a coat hanger to the wire and prop it up
like a ram-rod. Next, pull up behind some fool outside of a shopping
mall waiting to pick someone up. Touch the coat hanger to the car and
rev up your engine a little. The next person to touch a metal part of
the car will get a 12 volt current through their whole body! Not
enough
to kill (unless the guy has a pace maker), but enough to make them
jump
and scare the shit out of 'em!
Cat Bomb
--- ----
Take a full can of tuna. Open it, remove all of the tuna and clean it
out real good. Drill a small hole in the side and then nail the can
down to a piece of plywood. Take a Champagne Party Popper and remove
the little explosive device on the string. Run this through the hole
(so the explosive in on the inside and the string on the outside) and
fill the can up with about 1/8 inch of gunpowder (Heavily salt-petered
for easy ignition). Place the lid back on and pack it down good. Use
Clay or Silicon to seal up the cracks on the sides. Put some of the
tuna back on top and place the bomb in the path of some soon to be
suprised feline! Tie a string to the igniter string and hide about
20-30 feet away. When the cat stops to have a bite, pull the string!
And if all works well, the device should explode and scare or kill
the little furry bastard.
Loud Pipe Bomb
---- ---- ----
Mix Potassium Perchlorate with some 600 mesh Aluminum Powder in a
2/1 ratio. Drill a small hole in a small piece of 1/4 in. copper
tubing. Place a fuse in the hole, pack the tube with the above
mixture, and close both ends of the tube. If you don't know what
to do from here, you shouldn't be reading this!
Bird Buster
---- ------
This isn't really a bomb, but it's fun anyway! Place some Alka-Seltzer
in someones bird feeder. When the bird eats it, it starts producing
gas. The bird can't release the gas and if he ate enough, he should
explode!
Tennis Ball
------ ----
Take a box of kitchen matches and saw all of the heads off (must be
white tips! The kind you can light on the ground!). Get a tennis ball
and pop a little hole in the top. Put the match heads in the tennis
ball untill it is full (this takes a while). Throw it at hard as you
can at your target. If the match heads were packed tight enough, it
should produce a nice sized explosion.
Time Delay
---- -----
These are the simplest forms of time delays for bombs that use fuses.
(1) Light a cigarette and break off the filter. Place the end of the
fuse in the end where the filter used to be. In about 10-15 minutes,
your device should go off. (2) Set up your bomb on a wooden platform
(Whe. planting bombs, I always do so I don't have to waste time
setting up). Place a drop of glue on the wood and mount a party candle
/. it. Lay the fuse of the bomb across the candle where it cannot move
and the flame cannot miss it. These "always" work and I have never had
any problem with dither one.
Drink Fun
----- ---
Ie inches of the tail
pipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach a wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames.
Turn Signal
-----------
Detach the plastic running light (or turn signal) cover on someones
car. Break the bulb. Test the bulb with a voltage meter to make sure
it is not live. Pack the bulb with Flash Paper and replace the cover.
When the person starts his car or goes to turn, a quick burst of flame
will pop out of the back of his car making him think it is on fire.
Winger
------
This is the ultimate in assault devices. It is a large, three person
sling-shot designed for hurling water baloons up to 100 yards. They
are supposed to leave the sling-shot at 240mph but through personal
experience, I've gotten some to go at least 150-200 yards. As for the
speed, I don't know. These are good for launching almost anything
that is not motion sensitive. You can get them at some boat shops
(that's where I got mine), or you can order them from:
Winger Sports LTD.
2167 Buhl Avenue
North St. Paul Minnesota 55109
__________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion \__________________ | |
| | "Where there's a will, there's a dead person" -TDK | |
\ \________________________________________________________________________/ /
\__________________________________________________________________________/
_________________________________________________________________________


191
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.3 Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,191 @@
_________________________________________________________________________
/ _______________________________________________________________________ \
| / Terrorist Home Companion part ]I[ "Anarchy in the Suburbs!" \ |
| | | |
| | By: The Dead Kennedy & Repo Man Call These: | |
| | Pitstop 10m AE/CF...504-774-7126 | |
| | An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 Silicon Valley......504-241-3452 | |
| | | |
| \______________________________________________________________________/ |
\__________________________________________________________________________/
Dept. Store Fun
---------------
Most department stores have those little clamp on deals that they
stick
on clothes to keep people from stealing them. Do what you must do to
get one of these (a friend who is employed there, hold the place up,
whatever). Find some lady with 3-5 kids, a stroller, a huge purse and
lots of other stuff that would make her look suspicious. Stumble by
and
plant this little devices in one of her pockets and wait by the exit.
when she walks out.. Bells! Cops! the works.. And to top it all off,
one embarrased lady! Another way is to take the thing home and rip the
little metal thing out of it (looks like a piece of card board with
metal wrapped around it). Place it deep in your wallet or in your
pants
and wait around by the entrance. When you see the same type of person
going out, you go in! Same effects. Only problem is, you have to get
back out! I suggest just leaving the little prize on someone in the
store and leaving (don't hang around, or do it at the same store
twice,
the Cops may get suspicious of you).
Street Fun
----------
Take some fishing line and run it across the street. Next, hang rocks,
bolts, sinkers, etc. at windshield level. Find a telephone pole or a
tree to run it across on. Another thing to do is to use light string
to tie 2 garbage cans together and run the string across the street.
If you can't figure out what that does, you shouldn't be reading this
file!
Bolt Bomb
---------
Take a bolt, 2 washers, and 2 nuts. Screw on the first bolt, place a
washer after it. Put gun powder on the washer, put the next washer on,
and screw on the last nut so that the nut is hanging out past the end
of the bolt and the 2 washers are pushed together. Drop the bolt on
the
bottom nut and it will explode. Nothing big, but it is re-usable.
Kinda
like the space shuttle. Uh, scratch that last part.
Spoke Gun
---------
Take a bicycle spoke and that little nut that holds it onto the rim.
Screw the spoke into the the nut a little bit. Powderize a match head
and push it into the nut. Pack a wad of paper into the nut with
another
spoke. Hold the device from the end that doesn't have the screw on it
and then hold a flame under the nut. When it gets hot enough, it will
blow up and send the paper flying. This is small scale. If you wanted
to, you could use a piece of threaded rod and a 1 1/2 inch long nut to
make the results a little more interesting. You can even add your own
projectiles. Just be sure that the paper is in tight enough to compact
the powder.
Flour & Gas
-----------
Take a new bag of ordinary household flour and pour gas on it. Light
it and drop it off of something high onto a hard surface. No
explosion,
but it gives a nice efect. Kinda like an Atomic Bomb.
PineSol & Cl
------------
Wrap some cholrine up in a paper towel and tie it up tight. Next, tape
it high on the inside of a Mayonaise jar (See illus. 'A'). Fill the
bottom of the jar up (don't touch the paper!) with PineSol. Screw the
top back on and place it on the ground. When ready, knock the jar over
and run like a bat out of hell (haul the mail, cruise, mobeelin', bust
ass, do what you have to do, just get away!). It will explode, and
release alot of chlorine gas. Don't breathe it in! It will kill you!
( illustration A )
/========\ <- Lid
| *| <- Chlorine
| *| <-
| |
|'.'.'.'.| <- PineSol
|.'.'.'.'| <-
\________/ <-
Hefty Gas
---------
Fill a hefty bag with gas from a gas stove. Tape a fuse to it and
light it. Have a book of matches at the end of the fuse to insure
ignition.
Woof! No more hefty bag! Or if you want to add some fun to it, forget
the fuse and just shoot bottle rockets at it. Same effect.
Door Shock
----------
For this, you will need a 12 volt transformer. Strip about 1 inch off
of the end of each wire. Run the wires out of your bedroom door. Place
some electrical tape on the bottom of the outside door knob and then
tape the bare wires down so they won't touch. Disguise the wires so
they won't look suspicious. Turn on the transformer and wait for a
victim. This is the ultimate in privacy protection devices. Don't
use more than 12 volts. You can kill somebody.
Auto Annihilator
----------------
You owners of pick up trucks are already in possesion of urban assault
vehicles. All you need is some nice size rollable objects, some cord,
and some duct tape. Tape over the latch that hold the tailgate shut.
Tie a cord from the inside of the cab to the tailgate to hold it
closed. Now, put a bowling ball, shopping cart, tire, large diameter
steel pipe, etc. in the bed of the truck. It must be large enough to
roll over the gap between the tailgate and the bed. So now your
cruising along the interstate at 65mph and some prick pisses you off.
Just pull ahead of him, floor it, and release the tailgate cord.
Now look in the rearview mirror. Where is the asshole? Oh, that's him
spinning out of control with a grocery cart stuck in his grill. Or
is that him over there in the ditch along side of the road. No!
wait! that's him speeding up to catch you! No problem. You were smart
enough to have a few more goodies tied to another cord, like a bowling
ball. Let her rip! Wham! Yeah, that's him with the broken steering
rods smashing into the divider. I knew he was back there somewhere.
Try it going up a steep hill or a bridge to take out more happy
motorists.
Flare Fun
---------
Take the glass off of a light bulb and fill it with the yellow
make from grinding up the inside of a road flare. Tape the glass
back on and screw it back into the socket. Give a new meaning to
the "Red Light" district.
Non-Handymans Bomb
------------------
Go to the nearest auto parts store and pick up a pack of road flares
and an aerosol can of starter fluid. Take the flare and duct tape it
to the can so that the first inch or so of the flare will burn with
out touching the side of the can. When you wanna blow it up, use the
handy little scratch-n-start piece of the flare and let it blow.
Not too difficult, eh?
Fun With Cyano
--------------
You call it superglue, we call it fun. Any Cyanoacrilate glue will
do the job. It is the best prankster material ever produced by a
manufacturer. Here are a few ideas to get you started. Glue the door
to the school shut. Glue car doors, car locks, and car trunks. Glue
money to the floor at the mall. On a busy day at the mall, put some on
a coin and roll it infront of some lozers. It won't dry until it hits
their skin because it needs moisture to dry. Spill some on your
enemies
pants. Glue the dictionary shut. Glue books to the table at the
library. Glue windsheild wipers down. Glue gaps caps on. The
possibilities are endless. Cyano takes a while to dry on metal
surfaces. When you put a few drops of cyano in baking soda or on saw
dust, it turns to a rock hard substance. Fill the desired spot with
the powder, and apply as much glue as necessary.
____________________________________________________________________________
/ Terrorist Home Companion IV "More Creative Ideas" \
| (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us |
| "Lead us not into temptation.. Tell us where it is, we'll find it" -TDK |
\____________________________________________________________________________/


131
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.5 Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,131 @@
_____________________________
| Terrorist Home Companion V |______________________________________________
| "The day we make contact" |
| qp Call These qp|
| By: Soft Jock and The Dead Kennedy db ---- ----- db|
| qp Silicon Valley..504-241-3452 qp|
| An Anarchists-R-Us release '86 db Pistop..........504-774-7126 db|
|This file written in remembrance of Bug qp both 3/12 10m BBS/AE/CF qp|
| Byter and Soft Jock (MCI, R.I.P.) db db|
|____________________________________________________________________________|
With World War III knocking on our door, I feel it is every persons
right to be able to protect and defend his or her's investments. With the
Government making it almost impossible for the average person to have a decent
weapon, I guess that only means that you will have to make them yourself. So,
I've come back with a few more ideas, both serious and prank.
Fire Grenade Launcher
---------------------
First, you will need a 12 or 16 gauge shotgun. You must mount two
T=ygs to it and make it like a tripod with the stock being the third
leg. Take a shell and hacksaw off the front part with the shot in
it. Place the modified shell in the chamber. Take a long piece of
circular wood (like a broomstick) and shove it in through the barell.
Make sure it is at least touching the shell (don't push too hard
unless you want a broomstick through your head!). Next, mount a
small rubber platform on the end of the stick. Securely fasten a
molotov cocktail the the platform (coke bottle filled with gas,
oil, detergent, and an oily rag in the top). Light the rag and pull
the trigger. With practice, you can shoot this thing wih amazing
accuracy.
Explosive Ideas
---------------
Everyone has made a bomb and just lit it and watched it go boom.
there are ways to get more out of your boom. If you take something
like sandbags or bags of cement and lay them on top or on the sides
of your bomb, the result will be much more damaging and will create
a smoke screen (if you use something like cement or flour and not
rocks or sand).
Itching Powder
--------------
I know this is no Anarchy, but ideas are running low. This, however,
makes a great practical joke! Get some fiberglass insulation (either
by punching a hole in your wall and removing it, or by going to a
construction sight and lifting it). Grind it up good (for large
amounts, I suggest something like a blender). Now just place this
pink powder anywhere you wish. This is better than the stuff you can
buy in the store. I got some asshole in the movies and he itched
all throughout the show. Don't ask me why I had itching powder in
the movies, but it did work.
Rain Detination
---------------
Here's an easy way to let mother nature help you set off a few bombs
(they must be ELECTRICAL). If it's raining out, place 2 test leads
into a cup (or 2 wires), each on opposite sides, so that they are
touching the bottom of the cup. Next place some metalic substance
(that DOES conduct electricity) in the bottom (not too much! Don't
connect the wires!). Wire up your favorite bomb around this leaving
the only break in the circuit in the bottom of the cup. When it rains
enough, the water will begin to fill cup, mix with the metal, and act
as a bridge for the electricity. If all was set up correctly, your
device should go off. In the event of no rain, just use one of those
Solar Cells (obtainable from Radio Shack) and connect it to a solar
igniter (this must be a FIRE type bomb with a fuse!). Connect the
igniter to the fuse, set the bomb in a shady place (that is soon
to be in the light), and leave. All should go as planned.
Whistler Bomb
-------------
Do you have one of those asshole coaches in your school always
blowing that damn whistle at you? If so, here's an idea that will
shut his ass up for a while. First, make a small batch of your
favorite friction sensitive explosive (see early "Terrorist Home
Companion" files written by me and a few other aRu members). Fill
his whistle up with it (not a whole bunch or he'll notice. Just enough
so it will make a boom he will never forget. Now, go be an asshole on
the field and wait for his to give it a good blow. "Gee coach, how did
you get shrapnel in your face?"
Exploding Pipe
--------------
So you have that asshole teacher or mean old man on the block who
smokes a (cough, cough) pipe. Or maybe even your favorite weedhead.
Steal the guys pipe (like from his car). If it is a good pipe, you
should be able to pull it into 2 pieces. Clean it out (with a pipe
cleaner, they're cheap). Run a fuse from the bowl back to where the
pipe goes back together. Place a small explosive inside the tube
where the smoke comes through to the mouth and wire it up to the
fuse. Next, replace the burnt tobacco that was in the bowl and put
it back where you got it from. "What's wrong, not getting enough
drag? Maybe you should suck harder. Boom!"
____________________________________________________________________________
/ ________________________________________________________________________ \
| ! ! |
| | Terrorist Home Companion part V "The day we make contact" | |
| | | |
| | (C) 1986 by Anarchists-R-Us | |
| | | |
| | "Anarchists don't die, they just lose their cars and re-group" | |
| | -Soft Jock | |
| !________________________________________________________________________! |
\____________________________________________________________________________/
Downloaded from..
The Lost City of Atlantis
. _ . __ |\ _ .
. .__ =| |[] |# |# ._ .
...##.=|.|[].|#:|#.|=|...
- -- --- ------------ --- - -
703 - 327 - 6144


4391
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/terror.txt Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

123
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/texasins.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,123 @@
< .cj
NITRIC ACID
.LJ
Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures, and acid delay timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid.
.cj
MATERIALS
.lj
Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume).
CONCENTRATED sulfuric acid (1 part by volume.)
Two bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks are preferable.)
Pot or frying pan.
Heat source (wood, coal, or charcoal.)
Tape (paper, electrical, masking, etc., but not cellophane.)
Paper or rags.
Sources: Drug Store. Motor vehicle batteries, Industrial plants.
IMPORTANT: If sulfuric acid is obtained from a motor vehicle battery, concentrate it by boiling it until white fumes appear. DO NOT INHALE FUMES.
NOTE: The amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate. Thus, for 2 tablespoonsful of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoonsful of potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoonful of concentrated sulfuric acid.
PROCEDURE:
1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste is formed.
CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled.
2. Wrap paper or rages around necks of the 2 bottles. Securely tape necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that there are no air spaces.
Paper and tape -\
|------------\ | /------------|
| \___=======___/ |
| bottle A ___|||||||___ bottle B |
|=============/ ======= \ |
----------|--/ \------------|
|||||||| \-- Sulfuric acid ||||||||
||| ||| & Potassium Nitrate ||| |||
\------ Supports ----------/
Bottle B should be slightly lower than bottle A, but not so low as to let the
paste to flow from A to B.
3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is SLIGHTLY lower that bottle containing past so that nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other bottle.
4. Build fire in pot or frying pan.
5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As red fume begin to appear periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle.
CAUTION: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As an added precaution, place bottle to be heated in a heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel. Heat this outer container to produce nitric acid.
/----------\ /- Tape Seal
| |-\ | /------------|
| | \___=======___/ |
| Can | ___|||||||___ bottle B |
^| |==/ | ======= \ |
^^| |-/ \-Bottle A \------------|
^^^\----------/ ||||||||
FIRE ||||||| \-- Heat resistant |||rock|
\----/|| ||| container filled with ||| |||
sand or gravel
6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat Steps 2-6.
CAUTION: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled.
Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a SEALED CERAMIC OR GLASS container. 03-31
Cellulose Nitrate is known as smokeless powder. It doesn't take much time or
effort to make it and can be useful for use indoors where you don't want any
smoke left floating around the room.
Materials
---------
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid
Concentrated Nitric Acid
Absorbent Cotton
Sodium Bicarbonate
A 250ml Beaker
Ice Bath
Paper Towels
Tongs
Procedure
---------
Put the beaker in the ice bath. Add 70ml of Sulfuric Acid, and 30ml of
Nitric Acid.
Divide the cotton into 7/10 gram pieces. Use the tongs to submerge each
piece of the cotton into the acid solution for 1 minute.
Rinse each piece of cotton in 3 successive baths of water, each bath
containing 500ml of water. Use fresh water for each piece.
Now, immerse the cotton into 250ml of Sodium Bicarbonate. If it bubbles
rinse it in fresh water once more and contiue the procedure until no bubbling
occurs.
Squeeze each piece dry and put it on paper towels overnight.
You already know what you are supposed to do with it now. Have fun...
[bad boy in black]
Have fun with this.. iI included the nitric ascid recipe because it is so hare d to get normally.. Alpine Kracker
Downloaded from Just Say Yes. 2 lines, More than 500 files online!
Full access on first call. 415-922-2008 CASFA
Another file downloaded from:
!
-$- & the Temple of the Screaming Electron
! * Walnut Creek, CA
+ /^ |
! | |//^ _^_ 2400/1200/300 baud (415) 935-5845
/^ / @ | /_-_ Jeff Hunter, Sysop
|@ _| @ @|- - -|
| | | /^ | _ | - - - - - - - - - *
|___/____|_|_|_(_)_| Aaaaaeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! /
Specializing in conversations, E-Mail, obscure information,
entertainment, the arts, politics, futurism, thoughtful discussion,
insane speculation, and wild rumours. An ALL-TEXT BBS.
"Raw data for raw minds."

4393
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thandbook.txt Normal file
View File

File diff suppressed because it is too large Load Diff

135
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thedestr.1 Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,135 @@
[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][]
[] []
[] ___ |\ []
[] / he |/estructors []
[] []
[] by Dragon Master []
[] []
[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][]
Have you ever tried to make a bomb, something that actually goes BOOM!?
Then find out that it only flares up? The Destructor is a simple yet powerful
bomb to make, using general components found at most hobby stores.
The following is all you need to make one Destructor:
1 CO2 Cartridge - Used in BB guns - come in a pack of five - Target sells em
for $1.50 a pack.
2 Size D Estes model rocket engines - found in most hobby stores where model
rockets are sold. (Any size will work but
D's have the most powder)
2 Solar ignitors - usually come with the engines - used to ignite the bomb
1 Bottle of fastdrying model glue
1 Scissors
1 Funnel
1 roll of masking tape
1 hammer
1 container (jar, cup, glass)
1 20 foot wire (+ and -)
1 6 volt (or 12 volt) lantern battery
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Procedure:
The CO2 cartridge is the body of the bomb and when it explodes will fragment
scraple.. so stand back.. Metal flies!!
If you have a CO2 BB gun then you will have many empty cartridges. For those
of you who have never bought CO2 cartridges you will have to find some other
way of emptying them. I have done this on accident before, simply insert a nail
in the top of the cartridge and watch the CO2 gas come out!! Very cold if you
let it touch you. I do not suggest doing it this way, so if possible, ask a
friend who has a CO2 BB gun for their empty CO2 cartridges.
Make the hole bigger:
Once you have an empty cartridge you have to make the hole bigger, otherwise
it is very difficult to get the explosive compounds into the cartridge. Take a
nail and pound the hole bigger. The size of the hole is very important. If it
is too big the cartridge will act as a rocket instead of a bomb.
Prepare the explosive ingrediants:
Unroll the model rocket engines with a pocket knife, until you have the black
chunck of boosting compound. Throw away the unrolling paper. You may remove the
block of clay since this is not explosive. Powder the chunk with the hammer
until you have fine powder. To make the fine powder, lay down some wax paper
on the floor. Find a screen mesh, and filter the powder, leaving the big pieces
on top and the fine powder on the wax paper. Then pour the powder on the wax
paper into a container. After you have the two size D engines powdered and in
the container you are ready to put the powder into the CO2 cartridge.
Get the ingrediants in the cartridge:
Make a funnel out of paper (a floppy disk jacket works well, with the end
clipped off) and tape it around the end of the cartridge. Slowly pour the
powder from the container into the funnel. You may have to use a toothpick to
help the powder through the funnel and into the cartridge. If your powder is
not fine enough it might jam in the hole and you will have to remove the funnel
and clear the passage. Shake the cartridge every so often until you can't hear
the powder in there. The cartridge is now full of explosive powder.
Prepare the ignitor:
Clip the paper protector of the ignitor with a scissors and bend the wires so
they are relatively straight. (Be careful not to break the ignitor when bending
the wires) Coat the ignitor with glue except for the ends, and let it dry for a
few minutes. Then insert the ignitor into the cartridge leaving the ends
exposed. The tip of the ignitor must touch the powder for the powder to ignite.
This should be no problem if you have enough powder in the cartridge. Put glue
around the ignitor and the tip of the cartridge and let dry.
Connecting the bomb:
Then bend the end wires of the ignitor and connect to your 20 foot wire.
Put tape around the end wires and cartridge. The Destructor is now ready to
detonate.
Detonating the bomb:
When you have found a place to detonate The Destructor, stretch the
wire the full 20 feet and then touch both wires to the two negative and postive
connectors. This will send a 6 volt charge through the wire and to the ignitor.
The ignitor will ignite the explosive compounds in the cartridge and in a
matter of seconds........ BOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are many, many uses for The Destructor and I'm sure you have one..
Detonating it under water and watch the fish float to the top. (It actually
does explode under water, if ya put enuff tape around it)
Putting it in someones mailbox.. hehe..
Putting it in a glass jar and watch the glass fly 50 feet up in the air.
Burying it a foot under ground and watch the sand and rocks fly 50 feet up in
the air. (hand grenade simulation) heh..
Lowering it into a manhole and hear it echo all over the city.. manholes
actually jump up from the force..
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE WRITER OF THIS FILE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DESTRUCTION CAUSED BY THE
DESTRUCTOR. YOU AND YOU ALONE ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE USE OF THIS INFORMATION.

98
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thefunbo.1 Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,98 @@
*******************************************************************************
* *
* + C A R B I D E E X P L O S I V E S + *
* *
* Just Like Mama Used to Make *
* *
* 08/03/87 By Pax Daronicus DINC/PDKS *
* *
*******************************************************************************
Formatted for 80 columns
Written Exclusively for Lunatic Labs, Unltd.
415-278-7421
You've seen the headlines where they say "Carbide bomb wipes out entire
building complex." Well now, you can be the guy behind the scenes who gives
newspaper journalists a chance to keep their jobs. The chemical behind all of
this is calcium carbide.
Calcium carbide; is a chemical that when mixed with water, releases an
ugly cloud that smells like the day Godzilla farted, and will explode violently
on contact with an open flame. Calcium carbide should be purchased from garden
supply stores in the form of Go-Fer-Gas;. It is best to buy it in a gopher-
infested area like San Lorenzo, California, the Gopher Capital of the World.
Go-Fer-Gas is calcium carbide. It gases out all the gophers, which is a cruel
thing to do. If you know where the guy who invented the stuff lives, blow up
his house for me, will you? Thanks.
And now, the bombs:
Stink Bomb
To make a stink bomb, you take a few ounces of calcium carbide and put
it into a plastic bag. Take a piece of sponge and put it in the top of the
plastic bag, then tie a string or baggie tie around it, the tightness depending
on the delay that you want. You fill a tin can half way with water, and when
the time comes, you put the plastic bag, sponge end down, into the bag. The
water will seep through the sponge eventually and react with the carbide. A gas
and heat reaction will disintegrate the plastic bag and an ugly, stinking cloud
will come forth.
It is a good idea to do this in a movie theater, because it is dark,
and probably no one will be smoking. You smuggle in the tin can of water, and
the bag of carbide. It is a good idea to cover the can with a piece of plastic
wrap, held on with a rubber band, so it won't spill everywhere. Also, you may
just want to ask for a glass of water at the refreshment stand (or at least a
cup, and fill it up at a drinking fountain), and use that instead, however the
bag may not fit. There are many other uses for this stink bomb, and I'm sure
many places you have in mind, so go to it, and have fun.
Carbide Bomb
To make a carbide bomb, you take a few pounds of calcium carbide and
put it into a plastic bag, as in the stink bomb. You drop the bag into a toilet
and get the hell out of the building or house. Any cigarette, pilot light or
other open flame will blow the crap out of everything. And once the reaction
begins, it absolutely can not be stopped. If some jerk tries to pull a heroic
act and flush the toilet, it would probably make things worse.
The whole area is quickly filled with gas, and the entire place will be
blown to hell if the gas is lit. If there is a guy in the stall next to you who
is smoking a cigarette, and if he won't extinguish it at your request, drop the
bomb in the toilet and get out of the building. That always takes care of rude
people.
To demolish an entire apartment or office building, simply pour a
couple pounds of carbide into the toilet while it is being flushed. The buildup
of gas would make the pipe system back up and every apartment or office on that
line would fill up with the gas. Whew! Wouldn't that be exciting? This would be
completely catastrophic to a house. The pilot light on the water heater or
furnace would ignite the gas, and enough pressure might be there to knock down
the walls!
Keep in mind also that calcium carbide is a fairly safe chemical to
work with, nothing like nitroglycerine or nitrogen triiodide, but do not avoid
exercising caution when handling chemicals or detonating anything.
Most of the research for this article was done from the book, The Poor
Man's James Bond, by Kurt Saxon, made available for $19.95.
Upload this to any board you can find! This article may be reproduced
in any literature, electronic, written, or otherwise, without consent of the
authors, as long as it is reproduced in whole with full credit to the authors
and Lunatic Labs.
And now, the Bullshit:
==============================================================================
DISCLAIMER: The contents of this article are for the informational purposes to
the readers only. Any damages, injuries, or problems resulting
from this file is not the fault of the author.
==============================================================================
DINC

61
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/therm.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,61 @@
-------------------------------------
THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE
WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY
ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS
ESPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK
OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW
YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE.
THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS
TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS,
HEMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS
A GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES
OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL
ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL
NEED A SOURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN
ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT.
ATTATCH THEROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE.
^^^^^^^^
THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE
WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR
FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT
IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT
CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE
SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING,
THERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE
JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE
WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON.
NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT
IT IN AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS
A NICE LIGHT RED.
THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED
IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER
FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS
I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT
YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY
THE BAR USE NO LESS THAN 94% PURE
ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.)
THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER
THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE
RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER
3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S
THERMITE!
NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF
MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE
THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM
LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE
STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL
SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.)
THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE
THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE
MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T
WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO
LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING
MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT
WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS,
GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN
VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES
WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH.
---------------------------------------


59
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,59 @@
********************************************************************
* Thermite *
* *
* By: *
* Phobos and Demos *
* of The Lunatic Phringe BBS *
* 312-965-3677 300/1200 Baud *
********************************************************************
The following is for informational purposes only.
Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through
almost anything, even tungsten, and here is how to make it......
First, you need hematite. Hematite is Iron Oxide, in rock form.
If you don't want to buy it, you can make it by electrolizing a
nail. (An iron nail).
to electrolyze the iron nail, place it in a jar of water which
has a couple teaspoons of salt dissolved in it. Then, get a DC power
source, like a train transformer, and attatch the positive wire to
the nail, and attatch the negative wire to another nail and place that
in the glass of water, as far from the positive nail as possible. Let
this run overnight.
While that is going, you have to get some Aluminum filings or
Aluminum powder. You can get this by filing an Aluminum bar. You also
might be able to find this at a hardware store. It is called Duralumin.
If you choose to use the bar, it has to be more than 90% pure.
(The bar method is easier and 90% is not hard to find.)
In the morning, get the jar and you will see a dark, red shit in
The glass of water. Filter the water through a coffe filter and
collect all the red stuff. This is RUST!! Throw the water away.
Get an iron pot or pan and heat the red stuff until it is a
light red and dry.
When it is cool, mix the two together. There should be 8
grams of rust to 3 grams of Aluminum, and that's thermite.
Now, how to set it off.
You must get a length of Magesium Ribbon. You have to put the
Magnesium into the pile of thermite. The Magnesium is a kind of wick,
which burns white hot!! You can get them from Chemical Supply houses.
All you have to do is light the Magnesium. This
can be done with a small torch like they sell at Radio Shack. The
ribbon should be at least 9 inches long. You can try rocket wick,
but it usually is not hot enough to set off the thermite.
When the Magnesium burns down to the Thermite, it will ignite
and burn the shit out of anything around it. KEEP BACK!!!
Thermite can vaporize Carbon Steel. Think what it would do
to your skin?? Fucking OUCH!!!!

37
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
THERMITE BY THE RESEARCHER/PIRATE-80
THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY ANYTHING,
SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS ESPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK OPEN A FORTRESS FONE.
NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE.
THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS
,HEMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS A GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIE
S OF RUST. YOU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL
NEED A SOURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT.
ATTACH THEROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE.
THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR
FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT
CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, THERE
WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR
JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT IN AN
IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS A NICE LIGHT RED.
THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER FILE
DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT YOUR LOCAL
HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THAN 94% PURE ALUMINUM. IT IS
CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER THE RUST AND ALUMINUM
FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER 3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS.
THAT'S THERMITE!
NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE THERMITE.
EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE. IF NOT,
ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK
INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH.
(DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE
BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS,
GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON
HUMAN FLESH.
Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open


42
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,42 @@
MAKING THERMITE
(Uploaded by Ninja Master)
THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH
PRACTICALLY ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS ESPECIALLY OF USE IN
TRYING TO CRACK OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW TO MAKE IT.
IT IS VERY SIMPLE.
THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S
TERMS, HEMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS A GOOD METHOD OF
MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES OF RUST. YOU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METER
ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL NEED A SOURCE OF DC POWER AS
WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT. ATTATCH THE ROD
TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE WIRE
IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE
SALT IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A
TEASPOON). LET THE SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, THERE
WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF
THE WATER OF JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO
DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT IN AN IRON POT UNTIL IT ALL TURNS A NICE
LIGHT RED.
More [Y/n/=]?                  
THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN
EITHER FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY
ALUMINUM FILINGS AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE
BAR, USE NO LESS THAN 94% PURE ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED
DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER THE RUST AND
ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER 3
GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE!
NOT, TO LIGHT IT. STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE
OF THE THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT
YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY
HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE
THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM WITH A
BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY, THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE
THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT
WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT
STUFF CAN VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH.


36
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermite3.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,36 @@
MAKING THERMITE
BY X CALIBUR
THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY
ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS SPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK
OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE.
THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS,
EMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES
OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL
NEED A SURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT.
ATTATCH THE ROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE
^^^^^^^^
WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT
IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE
SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, HERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE
JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON.
NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT I AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS
A NICE LIGHT RED.
THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER
FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT
YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THN 94% PURE
ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER
THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER
3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE!
NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE
THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE
STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.)
THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE
MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO
LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT
WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN
VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH.
THIS FILE UPLOADED BY THE MYSTIC
DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS 304-744-2253

194
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thermitep.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,194 @@
PrimoPyro1990
.... Thermite Incendiaries and Formulas ....
DISCLAIMER : The making and possesion of the following devices and mixtures
is probably illegal in most communities. The incendiaries are
capable of burning in excess of 5400 degrees F. and are next
to impossible to extinguish. If you make them you accept all
responsibility for their possesion and use. You also accept
all responsibility for your own stupidity and carelessness.
This information is intended solely to educate.
All Formulas are by Weight
Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures in which a reactive metal
reduces oxygen from a metallic oxide. This produces a lot of heat, slag and
pure metal. The most common themite is ferroaluminum thermite, made from
aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide (metal oxide). When it burns it
produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure iron.
Thermite is usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3lb. brick
of thermite was placed on an aluminum engine block. After the thermite was
done burning, only a small portion of block was melted. However, the block
was very warped out of shape plus there were cracks all through the block.
Ferro-thermite produces about 930 calories per gram
The usual proportions of ferro-thermite are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide
The iron oxide usually used is not rust (Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4).Rust
will work but you may want to adjust the mixture to about 77% rust.
The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow down the burning rate.
The chemicals are mixed together thoroughly and compressed into a suitable
container. A first fire mix is poured on top and ignited.
NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are not shock
or friction sensitive and ignite at about 2000 degrees F.
A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns
hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very good one is :
Potassium Nitrate 5 parts
Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts
Sulfur 2 parts
Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely
powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse
and burns intensely.
One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum
and the oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the thermite
useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals to
each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses
sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite
must be heated to melt the sulfur.
Iron Oxide 70 %
Aluminum 23 %
Sulfur 7 %
Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325 degrees
F. and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle the
sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes
to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is
still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the
diasite to hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix.
When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide
when in contact with water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting
efforts.
Thermite can be made not to separate by compressing it under a couple of
tons pressure. The resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite
powder.
CAST THERMITE: This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens
into a solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite
, but it makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as
follows.
Plaster of Paris 2 parts
Fine and Coarse Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
Iron Oxide 3 parts
Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a
mold and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Pour off any extra water that seperates
out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in the sun
for one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours.
Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry.
THERMITE BOMB: Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite
formula and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix.
Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum
foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around
the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-
piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the
inside of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the
mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center
of the filled mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and
assemble mold. The mold will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick
out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball
of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse
sticking out of the ball. Dry the ball in the sun for about a week.
DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN !
The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite.
Since the thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the
thermite and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion.
The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag
around. Use this carefully !
THERMITE WELL: To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and
drill a 1/4 in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel
over the hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite
and insert a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the
crucible. This should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well
over your target and ignite the first fire. The well works this way.
The thermite burns, making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes
to the bottom of the well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet.
This produces a small delay which gives the iron and slag more time to
separate fully. The molten iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of
the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the
crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target.
A 2 lb. thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with
different configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a
flower pot coated with a magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks
however. Take the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it.
This produces a fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag.
THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION: This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself
if you really truly want to make it before you do any work on it.
It is next to impossible to give any dimensions of containers or weights
of charges because of the availability of parts changes from one person to
the next. However here is a general description of this device affectionately
known as a HELLHOUND.
Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be
electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor
side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz.
Drill a small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor
through the hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement.
Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of
the end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe.
This gives you a thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the
thermite is electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other
finally setting of the flash powder charge.
Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal container which is
sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to keep the device away
from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the wires out through
the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel proof epoxy.
Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline works
great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap and it is done.
The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires. When
the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the container
is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When the
thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container
and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and
making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot
thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix.
The result is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel.
For the pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may
dissolve the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long.
But ask yourself, do you really want to make this?
EXOTIC THERMITES: Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal
flourides-magnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of flouride compound
in the mixture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely
corrosive and reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into
flames by mere contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium
A strong first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the
teflon and the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any
smoke from the burning mixture.
If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides of low energy
metals. Lead flouride is a good example. Try using 90% lead flouride and
10% aluminum.
Warning: Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately
equal to cyanide compounds.
Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and aluminum. When this
burns,it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts water releases hydrogen
phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air.
Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as white-
lockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have
to be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and
don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but
it is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent
of magnesium works well.
Fighting thermite fires: Two ways to fight thermite fires are either
smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put out the thermite but it
does help contain it and block some of the heat.
The other way is to flood the thermite with a great amount of water. This
helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small
amount of water, an explosion may result as the thermite may reduce the water
and release hydrogen gas.
Thermite can start fires from the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby
flammable substances can catch fire even though no sparks or flame touch
them.
*** Kilroy was here ***


142
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/thevanda.2 Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,142 @@
/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\\
/ The \ / /\ /\ / /\ /\ \ /_ \
/ \/ /--\ / \/ /_/ /--\ \__ / (vandals) HandBook \
//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\//\///\///\///\//\//\//\/\
By Capt. Chaos Re-Type by Scourge
>>>>>C02 Cartridge Bombs<<<<<
You will have to use up a new cartridge by either shooting it in a C02
BBGun or use it in a C02 car or what ever else you might figure out to do
with it. Using a nail force the hole in it bigger so as to allow the powder
and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it
in there by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface..Insert a
fuse, light and run..this does wonders for a row of mailboxes. Be careful
however, this little beauty thrown shrapnel and can be quite a hazard.
>>>>>Thermite Incendiary-Bomb<<<<<
The first step in the construction of a thermite bomb is to get some
iron-oxide (rust). Here is a good way to make large quanitys in a short
time: First you will need a d.c. convertor, whitch can be found on a race
track or train track. Cut the connector off, seperate the two wires, and
strip them both. You will secondly need a jar of water that has been
diluted with salt, this makes the water a conductor. Use about a tabelsp-
oon of salt. Next insert both wires into the solution, and determine witch
one bubbles the most. You will need to tie a common iron nail to the one
that bubbles the most (the positive wire), if you don't you will get the
oposite of rust, Rust-Acid! Put the two wires into the jarr on opposite
sides of the jar, untill both sides are completely submerged. Let that
sit over night, and remove the crusty stuff of the nail, and both wires.
Remove the excess water and poor the crusty solution on a cookie sheet,
let it dry out in the sun for a few hours or over night. It should be a
orange-brown colour, don't work if its not though..Crush into a fine
powder, on heat in a cast iron pot untill it turns red. Now mix the
Iron-Oxide with Aluminum filings whitch can be bought, or made by filed
down of an aluminum bar (Note: you can buy the aluminum filings at an
autoparts store, it stops radiator leaks. Scourge.) The ration should be
8/3 the 8 being the rust and the 3 being the aluminum. Get some Magnesium
either strips of powder, and put it on the Thermite. The Mag. is the bombs
fuse, light the magnesium with a lighter or blow torch, and get away..It
makes a volcano..heh..This stuff is damn hot, it'll melt through a payfone
with ease..
>>>>>Touch Explosives<<<<<
This is sorta a mild explosive, but can be dangerous in large quanties.
To make touch explosive (such as the kind in 'whipper snappers, but more
potent) mix Iodine crystals in amonia until the iodine won't disolve any
more (make a saturated solution). Let it sit untill you get a white percip-
itate at the bottom..pour off the excess amonia and dry out the crystals the
same way you did the Thermite..Becarefull now cause these dried crystals
are your touch explosives! (note: this is Nitrogen-Tri-Iodine, in its purest
form this stuff is sensitive to light wind or a feathers touch! Since there
is no filteration it is less lensitive..Scourge)
>>>>>Letter Bombs<<<<<
You will first need to make a mild version of thermite as mentioned above,
however you will use just plain iron filings, instead of rust. Mix the Iron
and Aluminum, at a ratio of 75% Aluminum and 25% Iron. This mixture will burn
violently in an enclosed space (Wow! Like ohh..an Envelope!), witch brings us
to our next ingredient. Go to the post office or buisness supply store and buy
an insulated (padded) envelope. The double layered kind. Seperate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main/middle section, where the letter would
go. In the outer layer place ample magnesium powder..Thats your bomb..to light
it...
This is the tricky part and is hard to explain in writing, expirement with
it untill you have it right. Ok, the fuse is just that touch sensitive explos-
ive placed where the letter would be torn open. You may want to wrap it like a
long cigerette and place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer,
on top of the powdered magnesium. When the envelope is riped it ignights the
magnesium (in a flash), the magnesium ignights the thermite.there you have it,
a person with verry bad burns...
>>>>>Paint Bombs<<<<<
To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal can with a fastenable lid,
a nice bright coloured paint, and a quanity of dry ic. place the paint in the
can and drop the ice in. Quickly place the lid on tightly and then run (duh)..
Whith some testing you can get it down so that you have a timer that works on
how much ice you have compared with the quanity of paint you have. If your
really pissed at someone, you could place it on a doorstep, knock, and then
run!!! Nuff' said about bombs..lets work on cars..
>>>>>Send A car to Hell!<<<<<
As I'm sure you know there are a thousand and one ways to destroy a car,
but I'll just cover the funnest and less known ones..
Place Thermit on the hood, light it, it'll burn though the hood, engine
block, and Axel. Tape a C02 bomb to anywere (axel, wheel, muffler, ect.),
Burn Magnesium on the hood or roof..Put tampon, sugar, water, salt, dirt,
ping-pong ball, anything in the gas-tank..Bannas in the tail pipe (Bev. Hills
Cop)..put a long rang deep into the gas-tank, light it and run like hell..
Make a JIMMEY (shown below) out of a long thin metal ruler, and get in the car
, rip up the seats, steal the radio, radar detector, whatever
Diagram Of A JIMMEY:
_______________________________________________________ ___
| |__| \
| __ |
|_______________________________________________________| |___/
>>>>>Hate School???<<<<<
Call in a bomb threat, or better yet also leave a fake (real?) bomb in a
locker (not yours)..No School that day, Put tons of jello in the toilett,
and in a few hours..watch it wiggle see it jiggle..heh..Flush gelletin
capletts filled with sodium down the 'twalett and they'll explode, rupturing
a watter pipe..Put tons of crystal drano (Lye Brand), I mean bottles, in
your toilette..add a roll or two of aluminum foil in it..it creates hydrogen,
then drow in a match..the school has ts own olympic flame. Get inside the
schools computers ( most likely Apple's) and steal, add, or modify the boards
in any particular way..Super/Crazy Glue lock dials..
>>>>> Phone Related Vandalism<<<<<
If you live where there are underground lines then you can ruin some one's
life with ease...All you must do is go to their houseand find the green junction
box that interfaces with their line (possibly other lines also) with
major lines. These can be found underneath the nearest pole, take a socket
wrench and loosed the nut or the right. Then take a wire clippers and clip a
few wires, or sledge hamer it, or even bomb it..No phones for a week..Auto
Dial them (use an extender...or they'll trace you) and dial them for a week..
Call the Phone Company and ask for call waitig, forwording, party line,ect..
Or get it disconnected...
>>>>>Misc.<<<<<
Get a persons mail held while their 'on vacation' for a month, get it
forwarded to a neighbors house..Go to target and set all the alarms for
the same time
<That All>
/

58
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timebomb Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,58 @@
***************************************
HOW TO MAKE A TIMEBOMB
***************************************
MAKING A TIMER IS EASIER THAN MANY PEOPLE MAY THINK. THE ONLY THINGS YOU WILL
NEED ARE:
1. A CLOCK WITH HANDS
2. WIRE
3. A BATTERY
4. SOME FILAMENT WIRE
PHIRST, IF THE CLOCK HAS A PLASTIC COVER OVER THE PHACE, BREAK IT OFF. WHAT
YOU DO NOW IS TAKE TWO LONG WIRES AND ATTACH ONE TO THE MINUTE HAND OR HOUR HAND
(NOT BOTH) AND THE OTHER PERPENDICULAR TO THE PHACE. THE PURPOSE HERE IS TO
SHORT OUT THE WIRES AS THE HANDS SWING AROUND TO THE DESIRED TIME.
ONCE YOU HAVE THIS DONE, SOLDER ONE WIRE TO THE POSITIVE (+) END OF THR
BATTERY, FILAMENT WIRE TO THE NEGATIVE (-) END OF THE BATT. AND THE OTHER WIRE
TO THE OTHER END OF THE FILAMENT WIRE.
NOW, WHEN THE DESIRED TIME COMES UP, THE WIRES WILL SHORT OUT, HEATING THE
FILAMENT WIRE AND BURNING WHATEVER FUSE YOU MAY HAVE ON IT LEADING TO THE
EXPLOSION OF YOUR PHAVORITE BOMB.
NOTE: IF YOU CAN'T FIND FILAMENT WIRE, YOU CAN USE SOMETHING ELSE, LIKE STEEL
WOOL. REMEMBER IN SURVIVAL TRAINING WHEN THEY SHOWED YOU HOW TO BURN STEEL WOOL
WITH JUST A PHEW BATTERIES? SAME PRINCIPLE.
***** ATTENTION: BE JUST LIKE YOUR PHAVORITE HOLLYWOOD ACTOR: SEND E-MAIL
FOR A SCHEMATIC OF A FULLY ELECTRONIC VERSION OF THIS TIMER!!
E-MAIL, SUBPOENAS, ETC.. SHOULD BE ADDRESSED TO:
///// // //
/ / // /
/ HE / / ASTER
Note from Mortician:
This is a very good meathod. I have used it a couple of times. You can do
the same thing with an egg timer, except an egg timer has a max. time limit of
an hour. Make sure that the filiment wire will ignite the fuse before you set
it all up because a lit of the time the wire will not heat up. Your best bet
for batteries is two nine volt one with the neg from the first hooked up to the
pos from the second. Then use the two remaining terminals.
A good meathod, also pretty safe.
---------------------------------------
Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 - Always Open

200
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timedela.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,200 @@
Time Delay Devices
------------------
There are three different types of time-delay devices:
1) Metal strip under tension till it breaks.
2) Chemical action that will, after a period of time, produce
enough heat to detonate the explosive charge.
3) An alarm clock set for a certain time, so that when it rings
it will complete and electrical circuit, thus detonating an
electrical blasting cap.
The first method, metal under tension until breakage, I will
not discuss, since it is extremely hazardous and unreliable. You
can have little or no control over timing, and such devices are
notorious for backfiring.
The chemical-action time-delay methods have proven to be pretty
reliable. Most of this action incorporates the amount time taken
by certain solution of acid to eat its way through another
substance. The time length can be determined by the
concentration of the acid and by the substance to be eaten
through.
Nipple Time Bomb
----------------
An example of this type of chemical action is the Nipple Time
Bomb, which is very effective. One must obtain a short section
of steel pipe and cap each end accordingly. Place inside the
steel pipe a stick of dynamite, and drill a quarter-inch hole at
on end of the cap. Now, into this hole you must place a small
amount of potassium chlorate and gunpowder. Now, seperatly from
the pipe, take a small glass vial and fill it with a concentrated
sulfuric acid solution, then stop up the end with a paper or cork
stopper. To arm the bomb, place the vial of acid upside down in
the hole at the top of the pipe. Now, when the acid has eaten
its way through the stopper, it will come in contact with the
potassium chlorate and gunpowder. The mixture of these chemicals
will cause a minor explosion, but it will be large enough to
produce the heat necessary to detonate the dynamite. The
detonation time is usually between three and six hours. If a
solution of sulfuric acid and glycerin is used, rather than just
a pure sulfuric acid, the time delay will be up to five or six
days.
Here is a diagram:
$ = Vial with Sulfuric Acid Mixture
% = Potassium Chlorate
# = Gunpowder
+--+$+--+
! !$! !
C ! !$! !
A ==> ! !%! !
P ! !#! !
! +-+ !
+-+---+-+
! !
! D !
! Y !
P ! N !
I ==> ! A !
P ! M !
E ! I !
! T !
! E !
! !
+-+---+-+
C ! !
A ==> ! !
P ! !
! !
! !
+-------+
Vial of Sulfuric Acid:
+---+
A ! !
I ==> ! !
R ! !
!%%%!
SULFURIC !%%%!
==> !%%%!
ACID !%%%!
!%%%!
!%_%!
STOPPER ==> !/ \!
+---+
Place the vial upside down in the top of the bomb as shown.
Incendiary Time Bomb
--------------------
This next one is an incendiary time bomb. This is very
similiar to the Nipple Time Bomb, in that it relies on the same
chemical action, but without the dynamite. The procedure is very
simple. A cardboard box or iron tube is filled with a mixture of
three-quarters potassium chlorate and one-quarter sugar, and then
sealed. At one end a hole is made. Into that hole is placed an
inverted vial of sulfuric acid, with a paper or cork stopper, it
will come into contact with the potassium chlorate-sugar mixture.
This will result in a very hot, powerful fire.
Illustration:
% = Vial of Sulfuric Mixture as in the
above bomb
$ = Cork or Paper Stopper
# = Mixture of Potassium Cholrate and
Sugar
+---+ +---+
! !%! !
! !%! !
! !%! !
! !%! !
! !$! !
! +-+ !
!#########!
!#########!
!#########!
!#########!
!#########!
!#########!
+---------+
Magnifying-Glass Bomb
---------------------
The Magnigying-Glass Bomb is effective, but it has many
disadvantages. The procedure is very simple. Take a tin can and
fill three-quarters of it with highly coompressed gunpowder. Now
attach to the top of the can a small magnifying glass, so that
the sun's light, when magnifyed through the glass, will cause the
heat necessary to detonate the charge. This works very well, as
long as it doesn't rain.
Illustration:
Magnifying Glass
!
+-----+
+------! !------+
! +-----+ !
! !
! !
! !
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%GUNPOWDER%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
+-------------------+
Alarm-Clock Time Bomb
---------------------
The alarm-clock detonation method is the most accurate device,
in that a person can the the exact time he wishes the bomb to
explode. It is connected in the same fashion as the other
eletrical-circuit booby traps. Wires are connected to the hammer
of the bell and to the bell itself, via the blasting cap, to a
dry cell. The clock should be set to go off before the booby
trap is built. When the alarm goes off, the hammer and bell
connect completing the electrical circuit and detonating the
explosive.
Illustration:
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% +---++---+ % DYNAMITE %
% ! +!!+ ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% ! !DC! ! % DYNAMITE %
% ! !re! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% ! !yl! ! % DYNAMITE %
% ! ! l! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% ! +--+ +-- Blasting Cap %
%%!%%%%%%%%!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% ! ! % DYNAMITE %
% +-+----+-+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% !oooo! % DYNAMITE %
% !oooo! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% !oooo! % DYNAMITE %
% +----+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% Clock % DYNAMITE %
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
************************************************

37
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timeprim.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
INSTRUCIONS FOR TIMERS AND PRIMERS FOR EXPLOSIVES.
TIMERS:
Timers for explosives are much more readily availible now
than several years ago. The watch companies have seen to this
To make a simple timing device all you need is any digital watch
with alarm and some wire. Digital watches with alarms are the
perfect timer for a bomb. They can be modified very easily. To do
this, simply open the watch and disconect the buzzer. Solder some
wires to the buzzer leads and you are all set. This devise must
be conected to a primer.
PRIMERS:
Primers are a small explosive devise to set off a larger
explosion. An example would be an atomic bomb used to detonate a
hydrogen bomb. The primers I will be discussing are for much
smaller devises though. You will need these parts: the above
timer, a 6-12volt battery, a low volt coil relay, and a solar
egniter. Take the timer and solder the buzzer leads to the coil
of the relay. The relay coil must be below 1.5v,.02amps. These
are availible at any Radio Shack store. Wire the battery in a
curcuit with the relay and solar egniter. The solar egniter
should be the type used in model rockets. Set the timer alarm to
go off whenever desired. the solar egniter can the be inserted in
many types of explosives such as plastique, dynamite, m-80's or
the like. The solar egniter provides enough of an explosion to
set these substances off. Since you never want to be around when
an explosion goes off, this is a very easy way not to be there.
Note: This devise is never intended for actual use! This
information is merely for your personal knowledge.
Captain Corcoran

69
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timer.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,69 @@
INSTRUCIONS FOR TIMERS AND PRIMERS FOR EXPLOSIVES.
TIMERS:
Timers for explosives are much more readily availible now
than several years ago. The watch companies have seen to this
To make a simple timing device all you need is any digital watch
with alarm and some wire. Digital watches with alarms are the
perfect timer for a bomb. They can be modified very easily. To do
this, simply open the watch and disconect the buzzer. Solder some
wires to the buzzer leads and you are all set. This devise must
be conected to a primer.
PRIMERS:
Primers are a small explosive devise to set off a larger
explosion. An example would be an atomic bomb used to detonate a
hydrogen bomb. The primers I will be discussing are for much
smaller devises though. You will need these parts: the above
timer, a 6-12volt battery, a low volt coil relay, and a solar
egniter. Take the timer and solder the buzzer leads to the coil
of the relay. The relay coil must be below 1.5v,.02amps. These
are availible at any Radio Shack store. Wire the battery in a
curcuit with the relay and solar egniter. The solar egniter
should be the type used in model rockets. Set the timer alarm to
go off whenever desired. the solar egniter can the be inserted in
many types of explosives such as plastique, dynamite, m-80's or
the like. The solar egniter provides enough of an explosion to
set these substances off. Since you never want to be around when
an explosion goes off, this is a very easy way not to be there.
Note: This devise is never intended for actual use! This
information is merely for your personal knowledge.
Captain Corcoran
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// The PIRATES' HOLLOW //
// 415-236-2371 //
// over 12 Megs of Elite Text Files //
// ROR-ALUCARD //
// Sysop: Doctor Murdock //
// C0-Sysops: That One, Sir Death, Sid Gnarly & Finn //
// //
// "The Gates of Hell are open night and day; //
// Smooth is the Descent, and Easy is the way.." //
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699
The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK
The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674
Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X

69
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timers.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,69 @@
[>:/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:<]
[\ A Black September Presentation /]
[/ How to make Electrical Timers \]
[\ /]
[/ Written By: \]
[\ /]
[/ Fletch \]
[\ /]
[/ Special Thanks to: \]
[\ Lightning Phantom /]
[/ 02/27/88 \]
[>:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:<]
File 01:Dripping Tap Timer
==========================
This type of timer is made for a sink/faucet of some sort, where you can
control the rate of water dripping out of the nozzle. The most convenient way
of doing this is to place the whole thing in the sink, but the charge (bomb)
can be placed elsewhere, depending on how much wire you have. What you're
gonna have to do is get a glass jar (or any other non-conducting container),
size doesn't matter (depending on how much time you need). Hook two wires to
aluminum foil (Steel wool may also be used), placing the strips of aluminum
over the mouth of the jar. Connect one wire directly to the detonator.
Connect the second wire directly to the battery. Run a third wire from the
battery directly to the detonator. Now place the glass jar under the dripping
tap (if not already placed), and turn faucet on (adjust the rate according to
how much time you need). When the water level in the jar reaches the aluminum
foil contacts, the electrical circuit is closed, thus detonating the bomb.
File 02:Relay Timer
===================
This type of timer is best used when long delays are required. You will need
two batteries (A & B respectively). Hook battery A to a relay. Battery A
gives the power to the relay's electromagnet. When battery A fails, the
circuit running through the relay closes. Battery B is hooked so that when the
relay closes, it fires the charge. Experiment with various batteries till you
find the best type of battery to use for the desired delay.
File 03:Hourglass Timer
=======================
What you're gonna have to do is take out all the sand in the hourglass,
replacing it with metal filings. Now make two small holes into one end of
the hourglass. Hook one wire from the battery directly to the detonator.
Hook a wire from the detonator to the top hole in the hourglass, and hook the
last wire from the battery to the bottom of the hourglass. The metal filings
flowing into the bottom of the hourglass will close the electrical circuit and
detonate the bomb.
File 04:Thermometer Timer
=========================
Make a small hole in the bulb of the thermometer, inserting the first wire from
the battery directly into the bulb. Next make a hole into the stem of the
thermometer (Making sure it's above the mercury levelhe second wire directly
from the detonator to the stem. Insert the third wire from the battery to the
detonator. When the thermometer is exposed to heat, the mercury will rise and
close the electrical circuit, detonating the bomb. Delay time can be adjusted
by varying the intensity of the heat source and the thermometer's proximity to
it.
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253

77
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/timers.txt Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,77 @@
[>:/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:\/:<]
[\ A Black September Presentation /]
[/ How to make Electrical Timers \]
[\ /]
[/ Written By: \]
[\ /]
[/ Fletch \]
[\ /]
[/ Special Thanks to: \]
[\ Lightning Phantom /]
[/ \]
[>:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:<]
File 01:Dripping Tap Timer
==========================
This type of timer is made for a sink/faucet of some sort, where you can control
the rate of water dripping out of the nozzle. The most convenient way of doing this
is to place the whole thing in the sink, but the charge (bomb) can be placed else
where, depending on how much wire you have. What you're gonna have to do is get a glass
jar (or any other non-conducting container), size doesn't matter (depending on how much
time you need). Hook two wires to aluminum foil (Steel wool may also be used)
, placing the strips of aluminum over the mouth of the jar. Connect one wire directly
to the detonator. Connect the second wire directly to the battery. Run a third wire
from the battery directly to the detonator. Now place the glass jar under the dri
pping tap (if not already placed), and turn faucet on (adjust the rate according to how
much time you need). When the water level in the jar reaches the aluminum foil
contacts, the electrical circuit is closed, thus detonating the bomb.
File 02:Relay Timer
===================
This type of timer is best used when long delays are required. You will need
two batteries (A & B respectively). Hook battery A to a relay. Battery A gives the
power to the relay's electromagnet. When battery A fails, the circuit running throu
gh the relay closes. Battery B is hooked so that when the relay closes, it fires the
charge. Experiment with various batteries till you find the best type of battery to
use for the desired delay.
File 03:Hourglass Timer
=======================
What you're gonna have to do is take out all the sand in the hourglass,
replacing it with metal filings. Now make two small holes into one end of the
hourglass. Hook one wire from the battery directly to the detonator. Hook a wire from
the deto
nator to the top hole in the hourglass, and hook the last wire from the battery to the
bottom of the hourglass. The metal filings flowing into the bottom of the hourglass
will close the electrical circuit and detonate the bomb.
File 04:Thermometer Timer
=========================
Make a small hole in the bulb of the thermometer, inserting the first wire from
the battery directly into the bulb. Next make a hole into the stem of the thermometer
(Making sure it's above the mercury levelhe second wire directly from the detona
tor to the stem. Insert the third wire from the battery to the detonator. When the
thermometer is exposed to heat, the mercury will rise and close the electrical circuit,
detonating the bomb. Delay time can be adjusted by varying the intensity of the h
eat source and the thermometer's proximity to it.
Disclaimer
==========
If you fuck someone over, it ain't my fault.
Ending Note
===========
If you need/want hand drawn schematics of any/all of these electrical timers,
leave me mail on one of the following boards.
[>:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:<]
[\ Give these boards a call: /]
[/ \]
[\ Dragonfire..........[609] 424/2606 /]
[/ Hard Rock Cafe......[201] 362-6304 /]
[>:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:/:\:<]
DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS......

174
textfiles.com/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/tipsanar.ana Normal file
View File

@@ -0,0 +1,174 @@
[ File Taken from Silicon Valley (504)-241-3452 10mBBS 300/1200 ]
_____________________________
/ Tips for Creative Anarchists\_______________________________________________
| \
| An Anarchists-R-Us / Private Anarchy Limited release |
| |
| Written by: The Dead Kennedy and The CPA |
| |
| Silicon Valley............504-241-3452 300/1200/10meg |
| The Pitstop...............504-774-7126 300/1200/10Meg |
| |
\_____________________________________________________________________________/
Phone Ringer
------------
This will only work if you have an old desk type phone with the bell,
not one that beeps. Remove the various screws that you need to to take
the phone apart. If you see 2 bells with a little knocker in the
middle, you are in luck. If the bells are made of some non-electricity
conducting metal, cover them, along with the knocker, with tin foil.
Connect a wire to the knocker and one to the bell. This is your "gap"
for the electrical current. Wire up some type of electrical device
to the "gizmo" you have created by wiring the negatives direct, and
by splitting the positives with the bell and knocker. Since the contact
will only be for a millisecond, I suggest that you do not use a Solar
igniter. Instead, use a mini lightbulb that only requires something
like a 9-volt to make it light. Break the very top of the bulb off and
fill the remainder with gunpowder or flash powder. Place the fuse in
the powder and tape it up real good. When the phone rings, if all has
gone well, whatever you have connected will blink, blow up, or do
whatever it is supposed to.
.:'"':. <> Knocker .:'"':.
: Bell : \ : Bell :
':...:' \ ':...:'
|wire |\
| #1 |wire
| | #2 fuse
| |___ |
+--------+ | | __.:'"':. \ / +------------+
| 9 volt |=+ +--:__ bulb=======| explosive |
| |=-________________|':...:' +------------+
+--------+/ \
+ and - terminals
Matchbox
--------
Take a matchbox (sliding type, preferably white tip matches) and remove
all of the matches. Get a piece of light sandpaper approximately the
size of the box and glue it to the roof of the box housing (not the
little drawer part). Take one or two matches and cut the wood off so
you will have just the tip and enough stick to push it up against the
roof of the box. Use heavy glue or air hardening clay to glue the
sawed-off matches to the floor of the drawer. Fill the drawer up with
some type of explosive or other device (salt-peter -n- sugar for a real
small, inexspensive smoke bomb. Just enough to scare somebody and
maybe burn their hands a little). Push on the sides of the box to
make to roof lift up from the rest of the box and slide the drawer in
slowly and carefully. Now, just place the boom-box somewhere where it
is sure to be found (on a table in a mall) and watch for some dude
who wants to light up a smoke!
Christmas gift
--------------
Is there alot of holiday thefts in your town? If there is, this is
for you. First, build a small pipe bomb with heavily salt-petered
black powder or some other powder that is easy to ignite. Instead of
a fuse, insert one of those little kid toys that you pull the 2
strings apart and it pops, or even a popper from a champagne party
popper that shoot out streamers or confetti. Next, poke a small hole
in the side of a nice sized box. tape the bomb to the wall of the box
so the popper hole is right next to the hole in the box. Run the
string through and tie an even longer one to the end. Tie the very
end (not the bomb end) to something in your car, roll down the window,
place the "prize" on the seat, and go for a little cruise through the
problem areas in your town. Just wait for one of those little bastards
to reach in, grab the box, and run. Looks like you're at the end of
your rope there son. This could even be placed / tied down to a park
bench or something like that. The only problem is, when it blows,
he/she/it will be quite pissed if they can still move. I've seen people
get everything from school bags to purses ripped off in this manner.
You can't call that anarchy, that is just plain being an asshole!
Highway Messages
----------------
You see everyone painting stuff like "Ozzy Rules" and "Dick loves Jane"
on highway overpasses. You may think it is a cool idea yourself by
painting something as simple as an anarchy symbol up there. Well, why
be normal? Try painting it on the cement where the cars go! Just steal
a few road barricades (ones with blinking lights on them) and set them
up around the road to be painted. Get out your can of paint, do the
job, and go! Make the letters tall. You'll have to remember that the
motorists will be reading it from an angle!
Police Radar Stopper
--------------------
Have you ever gotten nailed by the cops in one of those speed-radar
traps? Well, if you put a burnt out flourescent lightbulb on your
dash, it will absorb the energy from the air and not sent them back
a response! A cop said it works, but I would still slow down if I
were you. Personally, I think it's tacky looking to drive around
with a lightbulb on the dash of my Porsche! Ha!
Radio Control
-------------
Obtain an old remote control vehicle (very cheap, like the kind radio
shack sells for $20, you probably have 3 or 4 in your attic). It
doesn't have to be complex, just the kind that will make the wheels
turn when you hit a button. Remove the "servo" from the car. Make
a small box that will hold the receiver, servo, and battery. Run a
wire from the + terminal on the battery to the servo. Next, find where
the servo will stop rotating and place a small piece of sheet metal
there (preferably somewhere on the wall of the box). Run a wire from
one side of a solar ingiter to the sheet metal. Wire the other side
of the igniter directly to the negative terminal on the battery.
Now, just tape the fuse from an explosive directly to the igniter.
You're machine is ready to roll. This can be used in devices like
the christmas gift bomb. It should have about a 50 foot range.
When you want it to go, just hit the switch!
School Stink Bomb
-----------------
Take a mayonnaise jar and fill the bottom with sulfur. Next, take
some flimsy aluminum foil and make a leak-proof bowl out of it that
will cover the top of the jar (test it first or get busted!). Place
the bowl over the top of the jar. Obtain some medium strength
Hydrochloric acid and pour enough of it to do a good job in the bowl.
Place your little jar near one of the air conditioning unit's intake
vents and leave (preferably one in a janitor's closet or where no
students go). In good time, the HCL will eat through the aluminum
and drop onto the sulfur. The air intake will suck up the smoke and
fumes and take out the whole building, and they'll probably close
school for a day or so.
Where do I get it?
------------------
I know what you're thinking.. "Where do I get the chemicals I need to
make all of these explosive devices I would need to use some of these
ideas?" Well, I've been asked that question many of times. The only
answers I have are: 1) Make your own black powder (See Terrorist Home
Companion series), 2) Buy some Pyrodex and cannon fuse from your local
sporting goods shop (Tell them you have a house on a lake with a small
cannon and you need it for a family reunion), or (drumroll please),
for the chemicals, tubes, fuses, and everything else you would ever
need, send $13.50 for a subscription to AM Fireworks News (address
below). It has ads for companies that sell everything you would
ever need.
AM Fireworks News
SR - Box 30
Dingman's Ferry, PA
18328
[ Warning ]
-----------
The tips in this file and other files written by myself are somewhat
incomplete. This leaves a margin for you to use your own creativity.
All tips have either been tested or just plain "have to work". I
suggest that unless you know what you are doing, don't try too many
of these. And if you do, do it small scale first.
_____________________________________________________________________________
/ \
| Special thanks to: Sammy the God and The Gray Elf |
| |
| "I'm as dazed and confused as a clubbed baby seal" - Gray Elf |
| |
| Please leave all titles intact. "(C) 1986/87 By Anarchists-R-Us" |
\____________________________________________________________________________/


Some files were not shown because too many files have changed in this diff Show More