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******************************************
****- T H E U N D E R G R O U N D ! -****
******************************************
****-- P R E S E N T A T I O N ! ! --****
*** ***
** HOME-MADE STUFF V2 **
* ================== *
******************************************
** H O W T O M A K E A STUN GUN! **
******************************************
** CALL THE METAL AE (201)-879-6668 **
** PASSWORD=KILL **
******************************************
** T H I S H A S B E E N W R I T E N **
** ------------------------------------ **
** B Y T H E G R E E N D E A N!!!! **
** ------------------------------------ **
** 4/05/1988-23:14:00 PST **
******************************************
So you want to ZaaaaaaP the shit out of someone. Well I have the thing just for
you. It delivers a nice Shock of 75,000 Volts and causes muscle spasms. A word
of caution don't try this on your self (Dumb Shit). Well you be need'n to go
down to your local RADIO-SHACK. Yes that is what I said RADIO-SHACK where they
sell shitty computers. Just for a joke tell'em you want to buy a TANDY 2000 to
use for a clock (HA! HA!) , and watch'em turn red. Then say "just kidding(dick)
", under your breath of course. Well enough of that shit, Here is what you
need.
PARTS
=====
All resistors are 1/2 watt.Abbrv. as R1 or R2.
----------------------------------------------
R1 & R2 100,000 ohm's resistors!
R3 & R4 500,000 ohm's resistors!
----------------------------------------------
DIODES:D1-D4
Use a 75 PIV BRIDGE RECTIFIER or 4 1N9004's 300 VOLTS.
----------------------------------------------
Capacitors:
C1&C2 4700uF electrolytic
----------------------------------------------
TR1-STEP UP TRANSFORMER 55 uH AUDIO
----------------------------------------------
2 250 volt AC DPST switch
----------------------------------------------
A 9volt RECHARGEABLE/100 volt Neon lamp =L
----------------------------------------------
A 9volt battery clip/MALE-FEMALE RCA JACKS
----------------------------------------------
Some perf board,wire,solder
----------------------------------------------
9volts in
- +
/ to RCA JACK /
|---* *-------------| Use RCA JACK TO HOOK TO A RECHARGER.
| sw2 | Run JACK FROM 9V.
|----|<-----|<------|
| d1 d2 | When battery runs down Recharge it!
|----|<-----|<------|
| d3 d4 |
| |
\ /
/ R1 \ R2
\ /
| + |
|----|(-------------|
| c1 |
\ \
/ /
\ \
| R3 - | R4
|----|(-------------|
| c2 L Neon charge light/ Push sw1 to fire when light is on
|/ |
* *---------| |
sw1 | |
+ n -
=======
/\/\/\/ TR1
=======
| | needles or prods
| |
\|/ \|/
When this is built hold down sw2 until neon lamp lights. Then Stick "THE
VICTIM" And press SW1 ,He will get a jolt.
DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS 304-744-2253

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THE UNOFFICIAL OPERATOR MANUAL
for the
RUGER MK II
by
Richard M. Bash
Combat Arms
2869 Grove Way
Castro Valley, California 94546
Telephone (415) 538-6544
September, 1988
- MANDATORY USE OF FACTORY MANUAL WARNING -
We live in an age when lawyers are suing everyone for almost
anything under the sun. Therefore, it is necessary to advise you,
the reader, that this manual in no way replaces or supersedes
information or instructions from Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc. In the
event of a conflict between the information contained herein and
the information in official Ruger publications, it is the Ruger
publication which takes precedence. Combat Arms will be happy to
answer any questions you may have but the final authority is always
the information from Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc.
Assembly and Disassembly
of
The Ruger Mark II Pistol
APPLICABILITY
The following applies to all models of the Ruger Mark II .22
caliber pistol, including the Government Model, as manufactured by
Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc. (hereinafter referred to as "Ruger").
INITIAL INSPECTION
Upon initial receipt of the pistol, it should be inspected and
cleaned to assure complete, undamaged delivery and reliable, safe
functioning.
DESCRIPTION
The Ruger Mark II automatic pistol is a .22 caliber rimfire,
10 shot magazine fed, semiautomatic, recoil (also called
"blowback") operated weapon, chambered for the .22 caliber Long
Rifle (LR) cartridge. This model includes the following features
with which the user should be thoroughly familiar.
BOLT
The bolt can be manually retracted to chamber a cartridge from
a loaded magazine or to clear the pistol by pulling the bolt ears
to their rearmost position. Releasing the bolt ears will cause the
bolt to fly forward under spring pressure.
BOLT STOP ASSEMBLY
The bolt stop assembly holds the bolt in a rearward position.
It may be actuated either manually or automatically. Whenever there
is an empty magazine assembly in the pistol, and the bolt moves to
its rearmost position, the magazine follower button automatically
actuates the bolt stop to hold the bolt rearward. This will occur
regardless of whether the bolt is moved rearward when the last
round is fired or by manual retraction. If there is a loaded
magazine in the pistol or if there is no magazine in the pistol,
the user may actuate the bolt stop by manually retracting the bolt
and pushing up on the bolt stop thumbpiece. To release the bolt
from the bolt stop when there is a loaded magazine or no magazine
in the pistol, merely pull the bolt ears to the rearmost position
and release. If there is an empty magazine in the pistol, the bolt
can be released by pulling the bolt ears rearward and manually
depressing the bolt stop thumbpiece to allow the bolt to return to
its forward position.
- LOADED MAGAZINE WARNING -
The bolt stop is spring loaded to move downward. Therefore, when
there is a loaded magazine in the pistol and the pistol is jarred
to the extent that the bolt moves rearward, the bolt will fly
forward and chamber a cartridge. For this reason the safety of the
pistol should always be in the on ("S") safe position except when
the user is positioned to fire the pistol at a selected target.
SAFETY
When the safety assembly is in its uppermost ("S") safe
position, the sear is locked and the pistol will not fire. When the
safety is in its lower ("F") fire position, the pistol will fire!
The safety can only be moved to its safe ("S") position when the
hammer is cocked. Therefore, the safety serves as a cocking
indicator. The bolt can be manually retracted and released when the
safety is on ("S"). This feature allows the pistol to be loaded or
unloaded and allows a cartridge to be chambered when the safety is
on ("S"). The safety should be on ("S") at all times except when
the user is deliberately positioned to fire at a selected target.
TARGET MODEL TRIGGER SCREW
The trigger assembly contains an overtravel screw on the
target models. This screw is adjusted at the Ruger factory for
proper functioning and should not need adjustment. The purpose of
the overtravel screw is to limit the distance the trigger moves
after the hammer falls. Improper adjustment of this screw results
in either (a) the screw being screwed out so far that the hammer
will not fall or (b) the screw will not be screwed in far enough
and thereby allowing excess overtravel to the detriment of
accuracy. Adjustment of this trigger overtravel screw, if required,
should only be performed by a qualified armorer.
MAGAZINE
The 10 shot magazine assembly is readily identified by the
removable plastic base decorated with a silver "eagle" and is
designated by Ruger as the M10 magazine. This is the only Ruger
factory magazine that should be used with the Mark II pistol
because it is the only Ruger magazine which will correctly function
the bolt stop. Use of non-factory magazines is not recommended by
Ruger. However, the experience at Combat Arms has been that the 12
round magazine from Ram-Line, Inc. (part number MAK 1210) has shown
that this magazine is the ONLY non-factory magazine that
consistently works in the Ruger MK II pistol. The Ram-Line, Inc.
MAK 1210 magazine also has a life time warranty! It costs $12.95
(as of this writing) and is a stock item at Combat Arms. However,
use of a magazine made by other than Ruger may void Ruger's
warranty.
- MAGAZINE USE WARNING -
Do not use the Ruger 9 shot magazines (identified by their
non-removable bases) designed for earlier model Ruger pistols (Mark
I, etc.) in Mark II pistols. Do not use Ruger 10 round M10
magazines in Ruger pistols other than the Mark II.
- MAGAZINE FOLLOWER USE CAUTION -
Never lower the magazine follower button on the magazine and then
permit it to snap upward. Always "ride" the button up and down with
your thumb to avoid damage to the magazine and possible discharge
of .22 caliber rimfire cartridges in the magazine.
- WARNING -
The Mark II pistol will fire when a live round is chambered,
regardless of whether or not a magazine is installed in the pistol.
Removing the magazine does not unload the pistol. To unload the
pistol, FIRST REMOVE THE MAGAZINE, THEN PULL THE BOLT FULLY TO THE
REAR AND EJECT THE CARTRIDGE. DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE CHAMBER IS
EMPTY; ALWAYS VISUALLY INSPECT THE CHAMBER EVERY TIME YOU HANDLE
THE PISTOL. THE SAFETY SHOULD ALWAYS BE ON ("S") WHEN UNLOADING THE
PISTOL.
Ammunition
The Ruger Mark II automatic pistol is chambered for the
caliber .22 Long Rifle cartridge, standard or high velocity. Use
only ammunition manufactured to U.S. industry standards or to U.S.
military specifications. Do not attempt to load .22 Long, .22 Short
or any other type of .22 caliber ammunition into the magazine or
the chamber of the Ruger Mark II pistol.
- AMMUNITION WARNING -
The Ruger Mark II pistol may be damaged and death or serious injury
may occur to the user or other persons from any condition which
contributes to the generation of excessive pressure or the
uncontrolled release of gas within the Mark II pistol. These
conditions can be caused by barrel or chamber obstructions,
propellant powder overloads or by defective, incorrect or
improperly loaded and assembled cartridge components. The
relatively thin, soft metal used in .22 caliber rimfire cartridges
makes burst cartridge case heads a common occurrence in firearms
of this caliber. Therefore shooting glasses should ALWAYS be worn
when firing the Mark II pistol.
- BARREL OBSTRUCTION WARNING -
Before loading or firing the pistol, examine the barrel to be
certain that it is clear and unobstructed. Firing the Mark II
pistol with any obstruction in the barrel - even a heavy coating
of oil or even drops of water - may result in damage to the pistol
and injury to the user or persons nearby. A misfire or unusual
report on firing is always a signal to cease firing immediately
and examine the chamber and bore. If there is any type of
obstruction - even a partial obstruction - the user must clear the
obstruction with a cleaning rod and bore brush before firing the
Mark II pistol.
SPECIFICATIONS
Weight
Without magazine 2.7 pounds
With empty magazine 2.8 pounds
With full M10 magazine 2.9 pounds
Length
Overall 11.125 inches
Barrel 6.875 inches
Sights
Sight radius (on 6.875 inch barrel) 9.281 inches
Adjustment <20> inch per click
at 25 yards
Mechanical features
Rifling 6 grooves
Twist 1 turn in 15 inches
(right hand twist)
Trigger pull Approximately 50
ounces
Magazine capacity
Ruger M10 magazine 10 cartridges
Caliber .22 Long Rifle only
Disassembling the Ruger Mark II
- LOADED WEAPON WARNING -
Never clean, lubricate, disassemble, assemble or work on the Mark
II pistol while it is loaded. Keep all loaded ammunition away from
the cleaning area.
- MUZZLE SAFETY WARNING -
Keep the muzzle of the Ruger Mark II pistol pointed in a safe
direction at all times during the disassembly and assembly of this
pistol.
REMOVAL OF THE MAGAZINE
Place the safety on ("S"). With the thumb of either hand, push
the knurled magazine catch rearward and pull the magazine assembly
down out of the lower receiver by its grooved base. Remove all
cartridges from the magazine by pushing them forward and allowing
them to pop out.
CHECK CHAMBER FOR NO CARTRIDGES
With the pistol pointed in a safe direction and YOUR FINGER
OFF THE TRIGGER, grasp the bolt ears with the thumb and index
finger and pull the bolt fully rearward. Make certain the Ruger
Mark II is empty! Visually verify that no ammunition is in the
chamber. Release the bolt ears and allow the bolt to fly forward.
UNCOCK THE HAMMER
The safety must be off ("F") and the pistol uncocked to
disassemble the Mark II. Point the weapon in a safe direction and,
with the pistol unloaded, pull the trigger. The hammer must be
uncocked to relieve the pressure on the mainspring before the
weapon can be disassembled.
UNLATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING
The perfect "tool" to use for raising the mainspring housing
latch is a lady's bobby pin. Combat Arms has found nothing better
for disassembling the Ruger Mark II than this. Using your
fingernails will just result in broken nails. If you use a
screwdriver, you risk scratching the pistol. Some users have
reported that they use a piece of string looped over the latch.
Using the bobby pin, lift the mainspring housing latch UP out of
the handgrip as far as it will go, much like opening the blade of
a pocket knife. This will bring the latch to an approximate 90<39>
angle to the handgrip.
INITIALLY POSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT
Point the empty pistol straight up and pull the trigger in
order to make the hammer fall to its rearmost position.
REMOVE THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Pull straight DOWN on the mainspring housing until the
mainspring housing pin clears its hole in the top of the receiver.
With new pistols it may be necessary to lightly tap (with a
plastic, rubber or wooden hammer) on the end of the mainspring
housing pin which protrudes through the top of the upper receiver
assembly while pulling downward on the mainspring housing. The
mainspring housing is now able to be removed from the pistol.
POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD
Point the Mark II muzzle DOWN and pull the trigger.
REPOSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT
Now raise the empty pistol vertically and point it straight
up until you hear a click. This click tells you that the hammer
strut has fallen back. If you do not hear the click, go back to the
previous step, entitled POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD.
REMOVAL OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY
You can now pull the bolt out of the receiver by pulling on
the bolt ears while continuing to point the pistol at the ceiling.
If the bolt will not come out, then the hammer is not positioned
aft; go back two steps to POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD.
REMOVAL OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY
Grasp the lower receiver and hold the bolt stop thumbpiece UP.
Hold the pistol over a padded work surface which will receive the
upper receiver when it is removed. Tap the rear of the upper
receiver with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer to disengage the
upper receiver from the lower receiver.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT
Lift the recoil spring assembly UP out of its slot in the bolt
assembly. NOTE: no further disassembly of the bolt should be needed
for routine cleaning. For further disassembly, push out the firing
pin stop. This will allow the firing pin, firing pin spring and the
firing pin spring support to drop free. With a pointed object, such
as a punch of the proper size, push the extractor plunger rearward
until the extractor can be lifted out of the side of the bolt.
Slowly release the extractor plunger, allowing the plunger and
extractor spring to fall free of the bolt.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE
Hold the Ruger M10 magazine assembly upside down, keeping the
base of the magazine pointed away from people or objects. Insert
a 1/16" drift punch through the hole in the base and depress the
magazine base plunger approximately <1B>". Slide the base forward
very slowly, being very careful to keep the plunger and mainspring
under control at all times. If not contained, these parts will fly
out with considerable force. With the base fully removed, slowly
relax the pressure on the plunger and spring and remove them. Hold
the magazine flat with the magazine follower button up. Align the
magazine follower button with the circular opening near the lower
end of the magazine tube. Lift out the button. The magazine
follower can now be removed.
CLEAN THE PISTOL
Gather together the proper sized cleaning rod with a .22
caliber brass or bronze bristle bore brush and a slotted tip into
which a cleaning patch can be inserted. Also needed are clean cloth
patches and clean soft cloths. Do not use stainless steel brushes
on the weapon unless the Mark II is constructed of stainless steel.
Stainless steel brushes will remove the bluing on blued pistols.
A bronze or brass "toothbrush" is especially helpful for scrubbing
parts. Do not use the bore brush for scrubbing anything except the
barrel and magazine housing.
Combat Arms and the United States military recommend that you
use Break-Free (CLP)(tm). Under no circumstances should you ever
use WD-40(tm) on any weapon! If you need a solvent, Combat Arms
recommends that you use Shooter's Choice(tm) followed by CLP. The
Ruger Mark II should be cleaned at least every 400 rounds and after
each firing period.
Using a cleaning rod with a slotted tip, run a CLP wetted
patch through the full length of the barrel from the chamber end
several times to remove loose material. Then attach a bronze or
brass bristle bore brush to the cleaning rod and wet it in CLP.
Run the bore brush back and forth through the full length of the
barrel at least a dozen times. Make sure that the rod is pushed all
the way through the barrel until the entire bore brush clears the
muzzle end. Do not reverse the direction of the brush until it has
completely exited from the muzzle end of the barrel or the bore
brush may bind up inside the barrel.
Using the toothbrush soaked in CLP, scrub the area around the
chamber until it is clean. Remove the bore brush from the cleaning
rod and attach the slotted tip again. Run several dry patches
through the barrel until they come out clean. If necessary, attach
the bore brush to the cleaning rod again and scrub the barrel with
a CLP soaked bore brush. Continue the process until the barrel is
clean.
Failing to do this consistently and properly will cause
fouling of the barrel with a natural loss of accuracy. Grease
accumulation in the chamber area can interfere with the proper
feeding of cartridges from the magazine.
Using a loose clean patch soaked with CLP, remove all powder
residue from all components of the mechanism. If grease or dirt
cannot be removed by merely wiping with the patch, then use your
brass toothbrush soaked with CLP. After using the brass toothbrush,
wipe all of the scrubbed areas with a clean CLP wetted patch. After
cleaning the bore, run a clean dry patch through the barrel and
then follow it with a patch that has a light coat of CLP on it.
This will put a light coat of CLP on the inside of the barrel and
protect it from corrosion.
Wipe all surfaces with a clean cloth that has a light coat of
CLP on it. If the lower receiver and its mechanism is especially
dirty, flood it with CLP, leave it sit soaking for 2 hours and then
flush it out with more CLP. Remove the grip panels before soaking
or flushing the pistol and make certain that all foreign matter is
removed after cleaning. Lightly lubricate the lower receiver with
CLP after cleaning.
When cleaning the bolt face, breech areas, etc. with the
toothbrush, work carefully so as not to damage components.
Reassemble the pistol as detailed later in this manual. If the
Ruger Mark II pistol is to be stored for an extended period, the
final wiping should be done with a heavier coat of CLP.
Clean the internal and external parts of the disassembled
magazine with CLP. The inside of the magazine can be scrubbed with
a bore brush soaked in CLP. After scrubbing, remove all loose
material with several clean patches, just like you did with the
cleaning of the barrel. Leave a very light coat of CLP on the
inside of the magazine and on the magazine spring.
- MAGAZINE CLEANING CAUTION -
Be careful not to scratch the interior and exterior of the Ruger
M10 magazine, particularly along the front section where the bullet
tips ride. Be very careful not to bend the magazine lips.
Only a very small amount of CLP is needed to provide adequate
lubrication of all moving parts in the Ruger Mark II and to prevent
rust. Accumulation of CLP can attract particles of dust and dirt
which can interfere with the safe and reliable function of the
pistol. Do not, therefore, apply excess CLP unless storing the
weapon for an extended period of time. If storing the weapon and
using a heavy coating of CLP, the weapon should be disassembled and
re-cleaned and lubricated with a light coating of CLP before
firing.
- STORAGE WARNING -
If the pistol has been stored, before firing it again, completely
disassemble it as detailed elsewhere in this manual, remove all
grease and lubricant, apply a light coating of CLP to all parts as
described in the section on cleaning and be sure to run a dry patch
through the barrel after cleaning with a bore brush soaked in CLP.
Do not keep the pistol stored in a leather holster or leather case.
Leather attracts moisture, even though the holster or case may
appear to be perfectly dry. Never store the Mark II pistol in such
a manner as it may be dislodged. Always store the Mark II securely
and unloaded.
- LUBRICATION WARNING -
Firing the pistol with oil, grease or any other material even
partially obstructing the barrel may result in damage to the pistol
and death or injury to the user and those persons nearby. Never
spray or apply any lubricants directly to the ammunition. If the
powder charge of a cartridge is affected by the lubricant, it is
possible that the charge will not ignite but the energy from the
primer in the cartridge case may be sufficient to push the bullet
into the barrel where it may be lodged. Firing a subsequent bullet
into the obstructed barrel may damage the pistol and cause death
or injury to the user and persons nearby. Use all lubricants
properly and according to the lubricant manufacturer's suggestions
and recommendations.
Reassembling the Ruger Mark II
ASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE
Assemble the magazine in the reverse order of its disassembly,
being especially careful to contain the spring and plunger as the
base is being locked into place. After assembly of the magazine,
test the follower to ensure that it has free movement.
ASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT
The bolt is assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly.
When installing the firing pin spring, make certain that the front
of the support curves DOWN into the bolt. After assembly, test the
extractor and firing pin for free movement. Put the recoil spring
assembly back into the bolt.
INSTALLATION OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY
Grasp the lower receiver in a natural shooting position. Point
the pistol upward vertically and pull the trigger to pivot the
hammer backward to a cocked position. Lower the pistol to a
horizontal position. Place the upper receiver about <20>" ahead of
its final position and press it backward and downward so that the
trigger guard lug engages the front recess on the bottom of the
upper receiver. The upper receiver is properly aligned when the
rear end of the upper receiver is approximately even with the rear
end of the lower receiver. If proper alignment is not achieved by
mere hand pressure then it is necessary to strike the muzzle with
a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer. Inspect the inside of the
receiver to see if the hammer is up. If the hammer is up, the bolt
will not go into the receiver. If the hammer is up, point the
pistol up vertically and pull the trigger to make the hammer go to
the cocked position and ensure that the hammer strut is free.
INSTALLATION OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY INTO THE RECEIVER
With the muzzle still pointing slightly upward, insert the
bolt into the receiver SPRING SIDE UP. If you put it straight in,
the bolt will easily slide right into the receiver.
- FIRING PIN STOP WARNING -
When sliding the bolt assembly into the receiver, be certain that
the firing pin stop is in the bolt. If the bolt is assembled
without the firing pin stop in place, the first time the Mark II
pistol is dry fired (no live cartridge in the chamber), the firing
pin will be free to move forward to the extent that it will dent
the rear face of the chamber, thus rendering the upper receiver
useless and beyond repair.
INSTALLATION OF THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Point the empty pistol downward and pull the trigger until the
hammer falls forward to its vertical (fired) position. Grasp the
mainspring housing and insert the mainspring housing into the
receiver by positioning the mainspring housing pin into the bottom
of the hole in the lower receiver and push it straight up through
the hole in the upper receiver. As the mainspring housing pin is
pushed upward through the receivers, it passes through the slot in
the bolt and also passes by the rear end of the recoil spring
guide, camming the recoil spring guide forward to put initial
tension into the recoil spring. Continue pressing the mainspring
housing pin upward through the receivers until the mainspring
housing pin protrudes about 1/8 inch above the top of the upper
receiver. During this step, be certain that the rear of the bolt
is flush with the rear of the receiver and that the hammer is in
its fired (forward) position. When the hammer is in the forward
position, it is then possible to observe the hammer strut. The
mainspring housing pin will snap into place when it has traveled
to its correct position.
VERIFY THAT THE HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD
Point the empty pistol down towards the floor and pull the
trigger. This will cause the hammer to fall forward. Release the
trigger and do not touch it again!
REPOSITION THE HAMMER STRUT
Point the MARK II straight up until you hear the hammer strut
fall back with a slight click. You will have to raise the pistol
rapidly to cause the hammer strut to fall back. Do not pull the
trigger. Keep the Mark II pointing upward.
LATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING
The mainspring housing is now ready to be swung shut but it
is essential that the hammer strut comes to rest on the mainspring
plunger as the housing is closed. The mainspring plunger lies
inside the mainspring housing and may be seen through the slot in
the upper end of the housing. If the hammer strut does not contact
the mainspring plunger as the housing is swung shut, it will either
be impossible to complete the closure of the housing or the housing
may be closed but it will be impossible to draw the bolt all the
way back. It is also essential that the hammer itself be in its
uncocked forward position (resting against the firing pin) as the
mainspring housing is swung shut. With the MARK II still pointing
up vertically and tilted at a slight angle to cause the hammer
strut to drop into the correct position to meet the mainspring
plunger in the mainspring housing, close and latch the mainspring
housing by pushing the latch into its original position with the
heel of your hand.
TESTING FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT
When proper engagement is achieved, closure is complete
against the tension of the mainspring, which can be felt as the
mainspring housing is pushed into the recess in the back strap. To
find out if you did everything correctly, grasp the bolt ears and
pull the bolt back. If the bolt comes all the way back, you
reassembled the Ruger Mark II correctly. If the bolt fails to come
back, it is because the hammer strut is improperly positioned. If
the hammer strut is improperly positioned, then open the mainspring
housing again and go back to the step entitled VERIFY THAT THE
HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD.
- USE OF FORCE CAUTION -
It isn't the amount of force that does the job but how that force
is applied. If all else fails, bring the pistol into Combat Arms
and we'll show you how to do it at no charge if you purchased the
Mark II here. Otherwise there is a $5.00 fee. Everyone agrees that
the Ruger factory manual for the Mark II pistol leaves a lot to be
desired. Sorry, but the only thing that will change that is if you,
the consumer, write to Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc. and complain.
Combat Arms has spare factory manuals if you need one ($1.00).
- RECALL NOTICE -
If your serial number is 210-92816 to 210-94772 or 211-28500 to
211-40000, Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc. advises that two (2) pistols in
the aforementioned serial number range have been discovered to fire
if the trigger is pulled when the safety is on S and then the
safety is moved to the F position. If, with an empty pistol, you
cock the pistol, put the safety to S and pull the trigger and then
put the safety to F and pull the trigger, you should hear a click
as the hammer falls in a properly functioning pistol. If you do NOT
hear the click, the pistol can fire simply by moving the safety to
the F position. Do not use the pistol if it does this! Ship it at
once via UPS to Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc., Dept. MKII, Lacey Place,
Southport, CT 06490. If you prefer, Combat Arms can insure and ship
the weapon for you for $10.00. Ruger will repair the pistol without
charge to you.
- About the Author -
Born in Indianapolis, Indiana on March 6, 1945, Richard M.
Bash (known to his friends as Dick) graduated from Purdue
University and did graduate work at the University of Southern
California. For approximately 10 years Dick flew as a flight
engineer aboard Boeing 707, Boeing 727 and Lockheed C-130 aircraft.
After having traveled to 108 different countries, Dick settled in
the San Francisco Bay area where he opened Combat Arms in 1983. He
lives with his wife, Flora, in Hayward, California and enjoys
shooting, computers, ham radio (KL7IHP) and reading. He is a
Heckler & Koch factory trained armorer and a graduate of the Law
Enforcement Armorer School at Lassen College in Susanville,
California. A perennial student, he presently taking courses at
Chabot College in Hayward. Dick wrote this manual because so many
users had questions about the proper way to disassemble, clean and
assemble the Ruger Mark II and there was a severe lack of
information available. Written suggestions for improvement of this
manual are also welcomed.
- Acknowledgment of Trademarks -
Combat Arms wishes to acknowledge the trademarks of the
following products along with their respective companies.
Mark I, Mark II, Ruger Sturm, Ruger & Co. Inc.
Break-Free, CLP San-Bar Corp.
WD-40 WD-40 Company
Shooter's Choice Venco Industries Inc.


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Combat Arms
2869 Grove Way
Castro Valley, California 94546-6709
Telephone (415) 538-6544
Update on Ruger P-85 9mm Pistol
December 8, 1988
The December, 1988 issue of the American Rifleman (the National Rifle
Association's publication) has an article on pages 38 - 40 + 80 relating to
Ruger's P-85 9mm pistol. The following is a summary of that article. This
material is of interest to potential buyers of this $300.00 pistol and to
others interested in Ruger's progress in producing the weapon. For a copy
of the original article, please contact:
The National Rifle Association
1600 Rhode Island Avenue, N.W.
Washington, DC 20036
Telephone (202) 828-6000
<EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20>
Ruger established a plant in Prescott, Arizona to build the P-85 and
moved into this 10,000 square foot facility in 1986. There they began
producing and testing the gun. In January, 1989 the company expects to move
to a 200,000 square foot facility near Prescott Airport. This is an
increase of 20 times the original size.
There are presently 60 employees at the Prescott plant and when Ruger
moves to its larger location near the airport there will obviously be more
employees added to its staff.
The Ruger P-85 was not built in time for the original U.S. military
tests that Beretta USA won for the M-9 9mm pistol. Beretta was awarded a
contract to build approximately 320,000 M-9 pistols. The M-9 is the
military version of the Beretta 92-F. Beretta USA has delivered about
175,000 pistol so far and has about two years to go on the original
contract.
The military has decided to offer an additional contract for 142,292
pistols to be designated the M-10. Beretta has stated that since they
already won the M-9 contract they will not go through the expense of
re-testing but will let their previous record stand. Beretta, Ruger and
Smith & Wesson (and possibly others) will compete for the M-10. Weapons
were to be delivered for evaluation to the U.S. Army's testing facility at
Aberdeen Proving Ground, Maryland by August 17, 1988. Once again, it is my
understanding from Beretta that Beretta will not submit a gun but will
compete on the basis of their previous test results.
I have test fired the Ruger P-85 and find that the accuracy of the
pistol is adequate for military operations but inadequate for the typical
civilian demands and law enforcement requirements. The article in the
American Rifleman states about the same thing.
However, Ruger is trying to improve the accuracy and reliability of
their P-85. The plant manager of the Arizona operation is William Atkinson
and he has extensive experience as a barrel maker.
The article mentions that changes made include making the barrel and
its locking block one piece. Previously the locking block had been welded
to the barrel. The firing pin block has been moved and the slide stop arm
of the P-85 has been re-designed.
A newer design has been incorporated into the muzzle area of the slide
which permits a more adequate lock up of the pistol in battery. This makes
the barrel return to the same position when the round is fired. Naturally,
accuracy will be improved by this.
The article speaks of some tests that were performed on the gun. These
are generally destructive tests involving plugging the barrel, firing the
gun and seeing where the stress results appear in the frame. Another test
involved cutting away parts of the slide below and forward of the ejection
port and then firing the pistol.
During Ruger's tests, the article says they used PMC 9mm ammunition. I
personally do not like PMC ammo because it is inconsistent. The reader is
better advised to shoot Winchester USA brand of 9mm 115 grain full metal
jacket ammunition.
The article states that the NRA conducted firing tests on three
randomly selected pistols. The NRA used the PMC 9A 115 grain full metal
jacket, Winchester 115 grain Silvertips and Remington R9MM1 115 grain
jacketed hollow point ammunition. Both of these latter rounds produced
better accuracy out of the gun than did the PMC 9A 115 grain full metal
jacket ammunition. Naturally, the best results were with the Silvertips
(super ammunition for all 9mm pistols in my opinion).
Here are the results that the NRA got during their firing test. The
results speak for themselves.
Test 1
Fire five 5 shot groups from 25 yards with a Ransom Rest using PMC 9A 115
grain full metal jacket ammunition.
Smallest Largest Average 25 shot
Group Group Group Group
(Inches) (Inches) (Inches) (Inches)
Gun #1 2.78 4.69 3.89 5.78
Gun #2 3.80 5.01 4.37 6.50
Gun #3 2.67 5.11 4.05 5.93
Average group size for all three guns was 4.10 inches.
Test 2
Fire five 5 shot groups from 25 yards from a sandbag (without a Ransom
Rest) using a variety of 9mm ammunition.
Smallest Largest Average 25 shot
Group Group Group Group
(Inches) (Inches) (Inches) (Inches)
PMC 9A 2.90 4.75 3.80 5.91
115 gr. FMJ
Vel.: 1143 fps
SD: 18
Remington R9MM1 2.51 3.38 2.95 4.21
115 gr. JHP
Vel.: 1165 fps
SD: 10
Win. Silvertips 0.93 4.28 2.40 4.28
115 gr. JHP
Vel.: 1179 fps
SD: 18
Average group size for all three types of ammo was 3.05 inches using Gun
#1.
The "standard deviation" (SD) for the latter test needs explanation.
Standard deviation, when applied to the velocities given, means that two
thirds of the shots fired were within the specified variance. For example,
using the Winchester Silvertips data, the velocity (measured at 15 yards)
was 1179 fps <20>18 fps SD. Two thirds of the Silvertips rounds fired were
between 1161 fps (1179 - 18) and 1197 fps (1179 + 18). Thus, a third of the
Silvertips rounds had velocities outside this boundary (meaning below 1161
fps or above 1197 fps). I offer this explanation because I see the
increased use of standard deviation in ballistic reports.
If you had additional questions on this material, please do not
hesitate to contact me. The P-85 has a retail price of $325.00 for the
pistol in a deluxe box with an extra magazine and $295.00 for the pistol
with one magazine in a cardboard box. It is difficult at this time to get
P-85's. Hopefully that will change in 1989.
Richard Bash
c/o Combat Arms
Castro Valley, California


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Homemade Silencers
This is a phile on building a firearm noise suppresser. It can be made simply out of cardboard and glue. First, a word on "silencers." The term
is a nice one, but very inaccurate. Anyone with more than a layman's knowledge of guns would call them a firearm noise suppresser, but that is also
somewhat misleading. They both sound as if they are a device that either eliminates or muffles the sound of a gun being fired. It really changes the
way it sounds. A "silenced" shot can also make sounds of up to 110 dB, but, if someone shot a gun near you, you wouldn't think,"That sounds like a
muffled gunshot," you'd think "I wonder what that sound was?" The sound that it makes depends upon the suppresser, the weapon, the caliber, and the
ammunition. Basically, there are 3 ways suppressers are made. Either with baffles (little washer-type things spaced at regular intervals along the
body of the silencer), screen (wire mesh wound around the inside walls of the tube), or a combination of the two. For simplicity, this one will use
baffles only, but anyone could adapt it to screen or a combination.
First, you need a tube. A roman candle casing would do the trick nicely, or any parallel wound casing of sufficient length, or you could use good,
sturdy PVC piping. I wouldn't use metal, cause the tube will turn into lethal shrapnel if there is a problem. You can use metal washers, or just
cardboard ones, but you should use the sturdiest type you can find. you can also use copper or steel scrubbing pads if you want to make a screen
version. Optimally, the tube should friction-fit snugly around the gun barrel, but you may not have a convieniently sized tube around, so you can
just wrap some duct tape around the barrel of your gun until it fits right. DO NOT TAPE THE SUPPRESSER TO THE GUN BARREL! Wrap the barrel with tape
evenly until the outside diameter is wide enough to hold the suppresser on. You should use cardboard baffles for your first try, and center them as
well as you can. If a bullet hits a carboard baffle, it will just keep going at a reduced speed. If it hits a metal washer, it will probably
ricochet off and leave the tube through the side, if at all, so you should be extra careful when using metal parts. Now, here's how to make it.
Make some baffles out of cardboard. This is a little tricky, cause a badly placed baffle could be dangerous, and would destroy the silencer.
These can be made either as circles or as circles with flaps to hold them on. The second type will make for a more durable and longer lived
suppresser. Then glue them onto the tube spaced regularly, 3/8" to 1/2" should do it. The tube should be from 8" to 10" long. Leave about 1 1/2" to
2" on one end to go over the barrel. If you have a sight on the gun, you'd be better off removing it, but you can cut a channel with an exacto knife
for it. The baffles should have a hole in them slightly larger than the diameter of the ammunition. Here's the diagram:
-------------------------------------------
-------------- I I I I I I I I I I I
==============
-------------- I I I I I I I I I I I <---baffles
^ -------------------------------------------
I ^
I I
gun barrel I
cardboard tube or
PVC pipe
BTW, don't build this. Firearm Noise Suppressers are legal in some states, but they require a serial number and a $200 tax for each of them. Even
still, it is dangerous to make something like this, and I strongly suggest you don't try it. If you absolutely HAVE to, at least use a low charge 22
pistol or, better, rifle. I suppose this design would even have an effect on a pellet or BB gun, because it suppresses the sound of the expanding
gasses coming out of the barrel. I take no responsibility for what you do with this info, etc., etc. That's about it. Watch for more by,
The Gaurdian
=====================================================================
----------------------=======SANctuary==============-----------------
=====================================================================
Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253

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Edition: February 6, 1993
The following is a list of nationally known schools that specialize in
firearms training. Some of them hold classes at various locations
around the country while others only hold classes at their home
location. Contact each school directly for complete information on
course offerings, schedule, locations, etc. 36 schools listed.
Please contact me at one of the addresses below for additions,
corrections, and/or updates to this list.
Ray Terry (rterry@cup.hp.com)
P.O. Box 110841
Campbell, CA 95011-0841
Standard disclaimers apply.
_______________________________________________________________________
Academy of Self-Defense
P.O. Box 1278
Seattle, WA 98111
206-523-8642
Bradley J. Steiner, Instructor
American Pistol Institute (API)
P.O. Box 401
Gunsite Ranch
Pauldin, AZ 86334
602-636-4565 Fax: 602-636-1236
Richard Jee and Jeff Cooper, Instructors
American Pistol & Rifle Association
(APRA members only)
Firearms Academy Staff
Box USA
Benton, Tennessee 37307
615-338-2328
American Small Arms Academy
P.O. Box 12111
Prescott, AZ 86304
602-778-5623
Chuck Taylor, Instructor
Burton's Firearm Instruction
(for women only)
P.O. Box 6084
Lynnwood, WA 98036-0084
206-774-7940
Gale Burton, Instructor
Calibre Press
(law enforcement and military personnel training)
666 Dundee Road
Ste. 1607
Northbrook, IL 60062-2760
708-498-5680
Chapman Academy of Practical Shooting
4350 Academy Road
Hallsville, MO 65255
314-696-5544
Ray Chapman, Instructor
Chelsea Gun Club of New York City, Inc.
c/o West Side Range
20 W. 20th Street
New York, NY 10011
212-929-7287
James D. Surdo, Instructor
Cirillo's Tactical Handgun Training
1211 Venetian Way
Panama City, FL 32405
Jim Cirillo, Instructor
Defensive Training, Inc.
P.O. Box 917
LaPorte, CO 80536
303-482-2520
John Farnam, Instructor
Firearms Academy of Seattle
P.O. Box 6691
Lynnwood, WA 98036-6691
206-827-0533
Marty Hayes, Instructor
Glock, Inc.
(law enforcement and military personnel training)
P.O. Box 369
Smyrna, GA 30081
404-432-1202
Al Bell, Director of Training
Frank DiNuzzo, Assistant Director of Training
InSights Training Center, Inc.
240 NW Gilman Blvd.
Issaquah, WA 98027
206-391-4834
Greg Hamilton, Instructor
International Shootists Inc.
Closed effective 1/1/93 after 12 years in operation
Mickey Fowler and Mike Dalton, Instructors
Lethal Force Institute (LFI)
P.O. Box 122
Concord, NH 03301
603-224-6814
Massad Ayoob, Instructor
Midwest Tactical Training Institute
(law enforcement training)
11311 S. Skunk Hollow Road
Mt. Carroll, IL 61053
815-244-2815
Mid-South Institute of Self-Defense Shooting
(law enforcement and military personnel training)
2170 Springmeade Cove
Germantown, TN 38138
601-781-1112
John Shaw, Instructor
National Rifle Association
1600 Rhode Island Avenue, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20036-3268
202-828-6281 for info on NRA basic training classes in your local area
202-828-6167 (Rhea Barnes) for info about instructor schools
202-828-6177 (Mary Panepucci) for info about schools for police only
OffShoots Training Institute
(law enforcement and military personnel training)
P.O. Box 719
Kennesaw, GA 30144
404-422-0158
Jerry and Cathy Lane, Instructors
Personal Protection Strategies
(specializing in women's training)
9903 Santa Monica Blvd.
Suite 300
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310-281-1762
Paxton Quigley, Instructor
Personal Protections Systems, Ltd.
(tactical submachine gun training for law enforcement, civilian
owners of class 3 weapons, and class 3 weapons dealers)
Aberdeen Rd R.D. #5, Box 5027 A
Moscow, PA 18444
717-842-1766 Fax: 717-842-2702
Aron Lipman and Ken Hackathorn, Instructors
Plaxco Academy
21621 Roland Cut-Off Rd
Roland, AR 72135
501-868-9787, 501-868-9767
J. Michael Plaxco, Instructor
Police Training Division
(law enforcement and military personnel training)
2 Edgebrook Lane
Monsey, NY 10952
Peter Tarley, Instructor
Practical Shooting Academy, The
P.O. Box 319
Yampa, CO 80483
303-638-4685
Ron Avery, Instructor
Serious Sportsman, Inc.
100 Middletown Road
Pearl River, NY
914-735-7722
John Perkins, Instructor
Shoot-N-Iron, Inc.
17205 Gaddy Road
Shawnee, OK 74801
405-273-4822 or 273-4180
Paul Abel, Instructor
Smith & Wesson Academy
(law enforcement training)
2100 Roosevelt Avenue
Springfield, MA 01102-2208
800-331-0852 extension 255/265
Sturm, Ruger & Company
Law Enforcement Division
Lacey Place
Southport, CT 06490
203-259-7843
Tactical Training Center
(some courses are law-enforcement only)
574 Miami Bluff Ct.
Loveland, OH 45140
513-677-8229
Talons Firearms Training, Inc.
11645 North Highway 287
LaPorte, CO 80535
303-493-2221
Ron Phillips and Kyle Caffey, Instructors
Threat Management Institute (TMI)
800 West Napa St.
Sonoma, CA <20>5476
707-939-0303 Fax: 707-939-8684 BBS: 707-935-1713
Internet: tmi@netcom.com, tmi@well.sf.ca.us
Peter Kasler and Peggi Bird, Instructors
Thunder Ranch, Inc.
HCR 1, Box 53
Mountain Home, Texas 78058
210-640-3138 Fax: 210-640-3183
Clint Smith, Instructor
Universal Shooting Academy
14715 S. W. 46th Lane
Miami, FL 33185
305-688-0262
Frank and Judy Garcia, Instructors
US Marksmanship Academy
P.O. Box 30126
Phoenix, AZ 85046
602-220-0750
James Jarrett, Instructor
White Feather Inc.
(law enforcement training)
600 Raff Road
Virgina Beach, VA 63462
804-499-6659
GYSGT Carlos N. Hathcock II, U.S.M.C. (Ret.), Instructor
Yavapai Firearms Academy
P.O. Box 27290
Prescott Valley, AZ 86312
602-772-8262
Louis Awerboch, Instructor
[end]

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Combat Arms
2869 Grove Way
Castro Valley, California 94546-6709
Telephone (415) 538-6544
BBS Phone: (415) 537-1777
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<20> <20>
<20> Scopes for Dopes <20>
<20> <20>
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I have compiled and written the following to help the reader learn
something about rifle and pistol scopes. Since rifle and pistol scopes are
the same for our purposes (and since I do not sell 3 pistol scopes a year),
this talk will remain limited to rifle scopes mounted on .223 and .308
weapons such as the Colt AR-15, HK-91, SSG and FN-LAR. The information is
also valid if you mount the scope on your typical hunting gun but I do not
sell that kind of weapon and know little about them.
First of all, let's discuss FIXED POWER scopes. If your shooting
conditions do not vary a great deal (meaning that you are generally
shooting at the same distance most of the time), you should choose a scope
with a fixed magnification. A high quality fixed power scope in 4 to 6
power will cover everything you need to do out to 500 yards without having
to fiddle with things and readjust the power setting on a variable power
scope. I recommend that you consider a 6 power scope with about a 42
millimeter objective and a 4 power scope with a 32mm objective.
VARIABLE POWER scopes are useful at low power in order to provide you
with a wide field of view for close distances or wooded areas. The higher
magnifications are used for longer distances in open areas for greater
detail. Variable power scopes range from a 1<> to 4 power scope to 2<> to 10
power scope. The problem with variable power scopes is with the user. If
you constantly shoot using the high power setting there you are wrong to
buy the more expensive variable power scope. If that's the case, a fixed
power scope is less expensive and is the right tool for the job.
Another consideration with variable power relates to the field of
view. Field of view is the measurement of the diameter of the field of
vision seen by the observer while looking through the optical device. This
measurement is determined at different distances from the instrument,
depending on whether the product is a riflescope, spotting scope or set of
binoculars. As a general rule, the higher the magnification of a particular
instrument and the smaller the diameter of the objective lens, the more
restricted the field of view will be. If the power gets too great, the
field of view will be too small. At higher powers, a slight movement of the
instrument results in a radical change in the viewing area.
The field of view may also be influenced by several practical, rather
than optical, considerations. Any time the distance from the eyepiece to
the eye (called "eye relief") is extended, there is a corresponding
narrowing of the field of view. This may be necessary in products such as
riflescopes in order to prevent the riflescope from contacting the eyebrow
during the recoil of the gun.
In pistol scopes or other extended eye relief applications, the field
of view will be further reduced. Riflescope field of view is determined at
100 yards (or meters if a European scope), while both spotting scopes and
binoculars have their fields of view measured at 1,000 yards (or meters).
Why do some scopes cost so much more than others? The secret is in the
optics. Higher quality scopes use the very best optical glass to make the
lens. The best raw glass blanks are then polished by skilled craftsmen into
lenses of very close tolerances. The very best glass lenses are made in
Europe.
The accuracy with which any optical instrument registers an image
depends on the quality of lens grinding and polishing. The primary silica
glass material must be free of all impurities and the lens surface finish
and curvature must be absolutely precise. The ability of the instrument to
distinguish fine detail will be in direct proportion to the care taken in
lens manufacture. Since lens quality is something that cannot be properly
judged by the human eye, one should not expect to purchase a quality optic
at a bargain basement price. Simply put, the more a lens manufacturer must
put into the production of its products, the greater must be the price.
Because optical lenses are highly polished, it is a fact of optical science
that approximately five percent of the light that enters or leaves that
lens will be reflected back upon itself. Should a particular optical device
contain 10 or 12 different lens elements (like a rifle scope), the total
reflected light could conceivably be as much as 50-60 percent.
To prevent this loss of image, lens manufacturers coat their lenses
with a special anti-reflective coating especially formulated for maximum
light transmission of over 90 percent. This coating is of a specific type
and thickness. The process involves molecular bombardment of the coating
material in a vacuum onto the lens surface. This coating greatly reduces
internal reflection and increases image contrast, which enhances the detail
that the eye can see.
It is impossible for 100% of the light entering the front of the scope
to reach your eye. A cheap scope will have a darker image than one with a
great refractive coating job done to the lenses. Also, the better scopes
will enable you to have a brighter image and to continue to see under
poorer lighting conditions, such as at dawn and dusk. One trick to help you
in shopping for a scope is to look at the objective (the front end of the
scope that gathers the light). The poorer the coating put on the lenses,
the more the lens will act as a mirror and reflect your image. The better
manufacturers use a magnesium fluoride coating on the lenses. Good scopes
have a poorer mirror image, thus transmitting more light and a sharper,
brighter image of the target to your eye.
This coating material is easily discerned by its color, which is often
seen as purple, straw or a faint green. The most common type of coating is
magnesium fluoride but more exotic multi-layer coatings provide enhanced
image transmission. The time, cost and quality control involved in the
coating process seriously affects the final price of the unit. Since it is
impossible to determine the coating's thickness or the type of coating used
without laboratory instruments, you must trust the manufacturer's
reputation. Bear in mind, that below a certain retail price line, the
quality of the lens grinding, polishing and coating are unknown quantities
and are generally inferior.
Color fidelity is important and is related to lens quality and coating
preciseness. Looking through a cheap scope, the colors will not appear
true. This is critical in a wooded or jungle environment which already has
reduced light.
You want a scope which will withstand the recoil of the weapon and has
its reticles ("crosshairs") centered. The scope should be dust proof and
moisture proof. There must be very precise click adjustments to the scope.
It is best if the scope has <20>, 1/3, or <20> minute of arc adjustments per
click. Thus, one click on a scope with <20> minute of arc adjustment with
change the point of impact <20> inch at 100 meters (109.36 yards). This fine
adjustment becomes important at longer distances. If your shooting
regularly includes distances greater than 500 meters, choose a scope with <20>
minute of arc adjustments, unless the precision is unimportant.
Beware of the overuse of the term "twilight factor" in a scope's
description. It is arrived at by a simple formula which only takes
magnification and objective lens diameter into account. This is misleading
because it leaves out important information about the lens coating, the
quality of the scope tube, and the quality of the blackness inside the
tube. Optical data say nothing about the quality of the scope! Just as the
caliber and magazine capacity of a weapon tell you nothing about the
accuracy of the piece, optical data does not necessarily equate with
quality. If a salesman starts pitching numbers at you regarding optical
data, walk away in a hurry because he simply does not know what the hell
he's talking about but has merely memorized some data to impress you.
The way to correctly use the twilight factor is to understand that the
pupil of the human eye during daylight conditions will be open to
approximately 2 to 5 millimeters and will increase its opening to 7mm in
dark conditions to allow more light to enter the eye. A rifle scope will
"funnel" light into an exit area for the eye to view the target. This exit
area, referred to as the "exit pupil" by optical engineers, should
correspond to the pupil of the human eye in dark conditions. The exit pupil
of the scope can best be understood by holding the scope about two feet
away from your eye. The small disk of light that appears in the rear ocular
lens (the engineering term for the eyepiece) is the actual area your eye
looks into the scope, not the entire rear eyepiece - only that small pupil
area of light. The pupil of the human eye and the exit pupil discussed
above should correspond very closely. so that the full amount of light
concentrated at the exit pupil of the scope will enter the eye of the
shooter.
For example, a 6x42 scope (6 power magnification with a 42mm
objective) will "funnel" its 42mm of light gathered from its 42mm objective
six times (the power of the scope). The resulting final image is then
concentrated into the 7mm exit pupil. To find the size of the exit pupil
image in millimeters, simply divide the size of the objective in
millimeters by the power; in our example 42 <20> 6 = 7. This 7mm exit pupil is
equivalent to the maximum normal opening of the pupil of the human eye
(forget about the pupil diameter caused by opiates!). A 8x56 scope will
"funnel" more light because of its 56mm diameter and will therefore appear
brighter then the 6x42 scope. Extending this theory to its illogical
conclusion, a 10x70 scope would be even brighter still, but how the hell
could you mount a scope with a 70mm objective? Thus we can see that a 8x56
scope or a variable power scope with a 56mm objective set at 8 power is
about the brightest we can expect. Such a scope will enable you to see your
target under rather unfavorable dark conditions.
Now that you know all of that, we can define twilight factor as the
square root of the product of the magnification and the objective in
millimeters. For example, a fixed 6 power scope with a 42mm objective has a
twilight factor of:
_______ ___
<20> x 42 = <20>52 = 15.9
Zeiss says the twilight factor can give you some measurement of the
visibility of details in twilight. The higher the twilight factor, the
better the visibility in poor light, with all other conditions the same.
But this says nothing about the quality of the glass, the lens coating, the
tube strength, etc. So, the better manufacturers suggest that you do not
rely on the twilight factor when comparing scopes, especially when
comparing different brand names.
Early optical instruments had bodies made of brass but this material
proved too heavy and tarnished easily. Modern optical devices use bodies
constructed of steel, aluminum or synthetics.
Should the scope tube be aluminum or steel? Steel offers strength and
resistance to thermal expansion but can rust and requires a higher level of
maintenance unless it is specially coated. Steel weighs more but it is
stronger. Many gunsmiths will tell you that there is no substitute for
steel.
Aluminum has widespread usage in the optics field because it is
lightweight, rustproof and resistant to wear. Aluminum expands more than
steel when heated. This must be compensated for by a more rigid mounting
system for the lenses so they will not more when subjected to variations in
temperature.
Synthetic materials offer lower weight, lower maintenance, high damage
resistance and total thermal stability. The use of synthetic is found more
in binoculars and spotting scopes. Expect to see riflescope tubes made from
graphite and other materials.
The modern scope mount clamping assembly places a high demand on the
stability of the sight. On the other hand, the better manufacturers have a
line of aluminum tubes that can withstand the pressures put upon them by
the clamps. There are various grades of steel and aluminum and the simple
truth is that the cheaper scopes use cheaper materials. Choose steel if
ruggedness, stability and absolute accuracy are the criteria. If weight is
the consideration, choose the alloy tube. The tube should be finished with
several layers of plating and a baked enamel outside finish. This protects
your investment in the scope. You don't want a finish that will wear and
expose bare metal to the air.
Who makes the better scopes? The Rolls Royce of scopes is made by Carl
Zeiss of West Germany. They are in first place. There is a tie for second
place, in my opinion, held by Swarovski, Schmidt & Bender, Hensoldt,
Kahles, Steiner, and Nikon. These are all European manufacturers. The tie
for third place goes to Leupold, who makes all of their scopes in America,
and to Nikon, who makes its scopes in Japan. The higher priced Leupold
scopes edge them towards second place. There is no sense in wasting your
time discussing the quality of Nikon except to say that they are new to the
rifle scope business. The Nikon scopes I have sold have been good value for
the money and are priced affordably. The Nikon 3-9X scope has a 40 mm
objective, <20> minute of arc adjustment for windage and elevation, weighs
only 16.06 ounces (455 grams), is 12.32 inches in length and has a field of
view of 11<31> to 34<33> feet at 100 yards (as a function of the power setting).
These values for the Nikon are included because they are typical of those
found in the better scopes. In my considered opinion, Redfield is in fourth
place and Bushnell and Tasco are in fifth. Somewhere farther down the line
is Simmons. If you are putting a scope on the AR-15, consider Tasco's
armored scope. Believe it or not, it is perfect for the job and is one of
Tasco's finest scopes. It is also Colt's choice for the Delta HBAR and
retails for $129.95 plus the $59.95 mount, thus saving you considerable
money. I am amazed at Tasco's quality in this one particular scope (called
their World Class series). Too bad it does not extend across their entire
line.
My suggestions are to choose a fixed power, lower magnification scope
for use in the brush. The maximum power scope you can really quickly shoot
off hand is 6 power, so a 6x42 scope is an excellent choice. Some people
feel that magnifications higher than six power simply magnify the shooter's
errors and make the shooter reluctant to fire a quick shot without support.
The 8x56 style fixed power scope really should be used with support. The
variable power scope in the 3-9 power category generally has a 42mm
objective and there are quality variable power scopes with 56mm objectives.
The 3 to 9 power variable should be set to 6 power at dusk and during dark
shooting conditions. Remember that 42mm <20> 6 = 7mm and 7mm is the magic
number for the maximum normal opening of the pupil of the human eye! Use
the 8 power setting if your variable power scope goes up to 12 power. The
lower power settings of the variable permit better offhand shots while the
higher powers make target identification easier. Select a scope with a 56mm
objective only if you intend to shoot under dusk or dim light conditions,
such as in a wooded area or under a jungle canopy and need such light
gathering capability.
A note regarding Zeiss scopes. All Zeiss scopes have a 30 year
warranty, multiple layer lens coatings. Diatal indicates a fixed power
scope while Diavari means a variable power scope. The Zeiss scope will
withstand 1,000 g's in recoil forces with very negligible change in the
point of impact. The scopes all have <20> minute of arc adjustment for windage
and elevation. There is no change in the point of impact with changes in
magnification on variable power Zeiss scopes. All are fog free and sealed
for protection from weather. Scopes with a 1" tube have their calibration
in <20> inch at 100 yards. Their 26 and 30mm scopes are calibrated for 1 cm at
100 meters.The 1" tube scope are more compact than the metric scopes.
It would hardly be fair to have explained all of this and say nothing
about binoculars, so let's turn our attention to them for a moment.
Binoculars are really two separate monoculars, hinged along a central axis,
about which the separate monocular halves can rotate to accommodate the
varying separation between individual eyes so that the binoculars will fit
any person.
Center focus binoculars feature a central focus knob that moves both
halves of the binocular simultaneously to adjust the focus of the
instrument. Usually, one eyepiece has an individual plus or minus
adjustment to make up for the slight differences in eye focus. Individual
focus knobs eliminate the central focus knob and each half of the binocular
is focused separately.
The major difference between binoculars is in their basic prism system
design. Traditional binocular configuration is the offset "z" shape of the
individual binocular halves. These are called "porro prism" designs. The
porro prism method of making binoculars gives the manufacturer a rather
wide tolerance in fabrication without sacrificing optical quality. This
means theat porro prism style binoculars generally cost less. The drawback
is that porro prism systems are heavier and physically bigger binoculars.
Another design method is called the "roof prism" style of binocular
construction. They eliminate much of the porro prism design's bulk. Because
both lenses of a roof prism binocular are in a straight line, the usual "z"
shapped binocular tube associated with the porro prism method is
eliminated. This results in a sleeker, straighter tube. Very precise
toleerances are necessary when building a roof prism instrument and this
results in higher costs. A negative aspect of the roof prism design is that
it results in an overall loss 10 to 12 percent of the light transmission
due to the nature of the prism system used. For the vast majority of
people, this loss is inconsequential and is more than compensated for by
the reduced weight and bulk of the more compact roof prism design.
Here are the prices of the Zeiss and Schmidt & Bender scopes. This
will give you some feel for what a truly good scope costs. If quality is
important to you then stick with one of the better European manufacturers.
Quality costs money. If you think you can get high quality at a low price,
your parents lied to you. It ain't possible!
ZEISS RIFLE SCOPES
Fixed power - 1" tube
5210909920 4 power with 32mm objective 600.00
5210919920 6 power with 32mm objective 650.00
5210929920 10 power with 36mm objective 770.00
Fixed power - 26mm or 30mm tube
5210819908 4 power with 32mm objective 600.00
5210839908 6 power with 42mm objective 700.00
5210859908 8 power with 56mm objective 900.00
Variable power - 1" tube
5210979920 3 to 9 power with 36mm objective 1050.00
5210069920 1.5 to 4 power with 18mm objective 900.00
Variable power - 26mm or 30mm tube
5210979920 1.5 to 6 power with 42mm objective 1000.00
5210069920 2.5 to 10 power with 52mm objective 1160.00
SCHMIDT & BENDER RIFLE SCOPES
Fixed power steel scopes:
001515 1<> power with 15mm objective 690.00
043600 4 power with 36mm objective 730.00
064200 6 power with 42mm objective 770.00
085600 8 power with 56mm objective 870.00
124200 12 power with 42mm objective 890.00
Variable power alloy scopes:
014200 1<> to 4 power with 20mm objective 930.00
016420 1<> to 6 power with 42mm objective 1020.00
021056 2<> to 10 power with 56mm objective 1230.00
01642S 1<> to 6 power with 42mm objective - Sniper grade 1680.00
04025S 4 power Sniper with 25mm objective 1360.00
*** *** *** *** *** *** *** SPECIAL OFFERING *** *** *** *** *** *** *** **
Because the better line of scopes described above are really new to
the San Francisco Bay area, Combat Arms is offering a special 20% discount
to any BBS customer on any Zeiss or Schmidt & Bender scope if paid in
advance in cash. A discount of 15% applies if paid by credit card. This
offers expires December 31, 1989.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I am grateful to Zeiss and Schmidt & Bender for the material they
provided. Also thanks go to Durwood Hollis for his article called "The
Clear Picture on Optics" in the September/October, 1988 issue of Shooting
Sports Retailer magazine.
Richard M. Bash - Owner
Combat Arms
Castro Valley, California
January 14, 1989


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=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
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= STREETWISE SELF DEFENCE =
= =
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= This TEXT file was entirely typed by RENEGADE [RAF] =
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= CONTENTS: =
= =
= PART I : THE BASICS =
= PART II : BEST TECHNIQUES =
= PART III : DEFENCE AGAINST GRABBING AND HOLDING =
= PART IV : DEFENCE AGAINST WEAPON ATTACK =
= PART V : EVERYDAY ARTICLES AS WEAPONS =
= PART VI : DISCLAIMER =
= =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Self defence becomes more important every year. Yet the traditional Martial
Arts demand a physical fitness and understanding of complex techniques which
are beyond most of us.
HERE IS A NEW AND PRACTICAL SYSTEM WHICH RECOGNISES OUR LIMITATIONS.
It is quick and easy to learn because it is based on adopting one move to a
variety of defensive situations.
The system assumes that the defence will be against a more powerful attacker.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= =
= PART I : THE BASICS =
= =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
INTRODUCTION :
--------------
This file has been written for those of us who do not want to take up the
martial arts as a sport, but who would like to be able to defend ourselves in
a potentially dangerous situation.
This course is intended to teach you to cope with practical situations, i.e.
circumstances in which you may actually find yourself. You may not aspire to
a black belt, but you will learn how to defend yourself effectively in a
emergency. You don't have to be particularly fit or well co-ordinated to use
these techniques, which have also been designated for the not-so-strong.
They are simple and easy to learn. They are also highly effective.
PRACTICE :
----------
"Practice makes perfect" they say, and this is true. Practise what you would
do in a serious situation, so that you are sure of your moves. Try to do
this with a partner, to help you practise the timing of these moves. Try to
choose moves which you find easier and which come more naturally to you.
It is advisable to practise in your everyday clothes, as these are what you
are most likely to be wearing in the event of an attack.
Practise punching, kicking and jabbing as described in the PART II firstly and
very slowly. When you have mastered the moves slowly, build up your speed and
power, but without a partner. Finally, practise your self defence techniques
with a partner, so that you can put what you have learned into practice and
get used to body contact.
SOME GENERAL GROUND RULES :
---------------------------
There are some important rules on how to react if attacked. If you bear
these in mind, you already have the advantage over your attacker.
If at all possible, avoid a confrontation. Try to engage your assailant in
a conversation. This way you gain time to calm yourself down and work out
an effective strategy to fight off your attacker.
If you cannot avoid a fight :
1. Breathe slowly and deeply to calm your nerves.
2. ALWAYS look your attacker in the eyes.
3. Turn sideways to make it harder for your attacker to grab you.
4. Only use techniques you have really mastered. DON'T hesitate.
5. Be careful not to let yourself be cornered, and don't allow yourself to be
backed up into a doorway or against a wall.
THE LAW AND SELF DEFENCE :
--------------------------
Section 3(1) of the Criminal Law Act 1967 states :
" .... a person may use reasonable force in the prevention of crime ...."
Obviously " prevention of crime " covers a wide range, but this may include
1. Defence of yourself
2. Defence of another
3. Defence of property
What is considered reasonable depends on the circumstances and is, ultimately,
a matter for a jury to decide. That is, if you have been slapped, it would be
unreasonable to defend yourself with a knife. If you use more force than is
reasonable in the circumstances, you could be prosecuted.
SHOCK TACTICS. THE ELEMENT OF SURPRISE :
----------------------------------------
Surprise is an important factor in self defence. If used properly it throws
your assailant off balance and may give you valuable time. There are many
types of shock tactics but I shall restrict myself to a few simple ones which
will distract or confuse your attacker.
1. Sudden, loud screaming
2. Spitting in the attacker's face
3. Smiling while looking behind of the attacker
THE MOST VULNERABLE AREAS OF THE HUMAN BODY :
---------------------------------------------
The eyes and groin are your MAIN TARGETS. A hard kick or punch in the groin
will quickly put men out of action, and can even render them unconscious.
This is a very sensitive part of the body and very vulnerable to injury, no
matter how big and strong a man can be. You can achieve similar results by
jabbing your assailant in the eyes with your fingers, which is one of the
best methods of self defence. Your attacker will be helpless if he cannot see.
Of course, the human body can be attacked in other areas like nose, chin,
knee, shin and bridge of the foot. These are your SECONDARY TARGETS.
DIRECT YOUR PUNCHES AND KICKS, AS DESCRIBED, ONLY AT THE MARKED POINTS OF THE
BODY, AS OTHERWISE THEY MAY NOT AFFECT YOUR ATTACKER.
THE RIGHT STANCE :
------------------
Correct stance is essential as a basis for all defence movements. In order to
achieve maximum mobility, balance your weight equally on both legs, keeping
your knees slightly bent. Do not tense up; relax and be prepared to react
quickly on all sides. Your shoulders should be diagonal to your assailant, so
that you present the least surface area for your attacker to grab. Protect
your chest and your chin by keeping your arms up at an angle. Clench your
fists to minimise any damage to your fingers when defending or blocking. This
is NOT a static position, quite the opposite, and you should be constantly
moving, like a boxer in the ring. Do not keep your arms still, but remember to
keep up your guard. This behaviour will confuse your attacker, leaving him no
time to recognise the defensive action you may be taking. Try to stay out of
reach of your attacker, but remember to maintain eye contact.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= =
= PART II : BEST TECHNIQUES =
= =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
USING YOUR HANDS :
------------------
In this part of the course you will learn techniques in which you can use your
hands, arms, elbows or fingers as weapons with which to disable your attacker.
The difference between a punch and a slap is the way in which the arm or hand
movement is carried out. When pushing or punching, the arm movement is always
straight ahead, towards the attacker, whereas, when slapping, the arm movement
is circular or semi-circular (a swing or a hook).
In self defence it's very important to learn how to use your hands as weapons.
A well-targeted punch, using the heel of your hand or elbow, is easily carried
out and highly effective if your FULL body weight is behind it.
It is NOT necessary to harden the skin on your hands or elbows on order to
make'em less sensitive to pain; they have been designated by nature to resist
knocks and punches.
Making a fist in the correct way is very important to prevent any finger
injuries when punching your assailant or using blocking techniques. When your
fist is clenched correctly, the thumb should lie in front of your index and
middle finger, and NOT be covered by them.
Move 1 : JABBING WITH THE HEEL OF THE HAND
Bend the fingers up, hold your palm upright and bend it back as far back as
you can. Take up the correct stance and push your hand forward with as much
force as possible. The palm will connect with the target area. Remember to
swivel your hips and follow through in the same direction. The best effects
can be achieved if you hit your attacker just under the nose
Move 1 : DEMONSTRATION
1. Your opponent is about to aim a punch at your head.
2. Take evasive action by moving one step diagonally forward from the normal
position.
3. Block the punch and, at the same time, jab the heel of your hand under your
attacker's nose.
Move 2 : THE FINGER JAB
This techniques is highly effective but may also cause severe eye injury. For
this reason, the finger jab should only be used in life-threatening attacks.
Bend your index and middle fingers slightly. Stand in the correct basic stance
and move forwards to carry out the finger jab.
Move 2 : DEMONSTRATION
1. Your assailant is trying to strangle you with both hands.
2. Hunch your shoulders and pull your chin in to protect your neck.
3. Now jab your assailant in the eyes with your fingers, taking a step
backwards at the same time.
Move 3 : ELBOW PUNCH
The most important thing to remember here is to bend your arm very sharply.
You can elbow forwards or backwards. Your assailant is then hit by the hard
little bone of elbow. If you elbow forwards, your arm moves in a semi-circle,
hitting the side of your attacker's face or his chin. If you elbow backwards,
stretch your arm out forwards, with the back of your clenched fist facing
downwards, and then bring your arm backwards sharply and with as much force as
you can muster. In both cases, your fists should stay clenched and you should
follow through with your shoulders.
Move 3 : DEMONSTRATION
1. Your attacker grabs your arm.
2. You step forward, bringing your arm up in a semi-circle.
3. As you set your foot down, elbow your attacker in the face. This way you
have the FULL force of your body weight behind you.
USING YOUR FEET :
-----------------
Using your legs gives you the advantage of greater reach, coupled with the
fact that your legs are considerably stronger than your arms. If you react
quickly enough, there is a good chance that you will be able to stop the
attack in its initial stages. All the kicks are easy to learn. Good balance
and speed are important. A quick, powerful kick to a sensitive part of the
body is one of the best methods of self defence. Aim your kicks below the belt
and always kick with as much speed and force as possible.
Move 1 : FRONT KICK
Start with your kicking foot behind you. Then raise your knee until your thigh
is almost horizontal and kick sharply upwards with the lower half of your leg.
Then bring your leg back quickly to the starting position, with your kicking
foot behind you. This kick is carried out in one movement, with the bridge of
your foot hitting your attacker's groin. Imagine you are kicking a foot ball
with all your might.
Move 1 : DEMONSTRATION
1. The attacker grabs you with both arms.
2. You set your kicking foot behind you and spread your arms out.
3. Now lift your leg and shoot your lower leg forwards
Move 2 : SIDE KICK
When you use the side kick, you hit either your attacker's knee or shin with
the outside edge of your foot, or the sole of your foot. Lift your front foot
up to knee height and then, using your hip, kick sideways with as much force
as you can, keeping your leg extended. By pivoting on your balancing foot, you
will be able to use full force of your hips and follow the movement through.
If carried out correctly, the heel fo your extended foot will point towards
your assailant. Bring your leg back to the starting position immediately. To
add power to your technique, lean a plank of wood against a wall and practise
the hip movement, by kicking the plank until you can break it. Remember to
keep your shoes on when practising this techniques (if you are VERY stupid you
can try that with your shoes OFF !!!!!)
Move 2 : DEMONSTRATION
1. Your attacker grabs your arm.
2. Lift your front knee up.
3. Keeping your leg extended sideways, kick your attacker in the knee.
4. Then wrench your arm free.
Move 3 : HEEL STAMP
The heel stamp is used solely to distract your opponent, before you follow it
up with another defence technique or action. From your basic position, bring
your knee up as high as possible and then stamp down sharply with the heel of
your foot. Your heel should hit the bridge of your assailant's foot. Remember
to keep your toes pointing upwards, so that your heel is in the correct
position. If you are carrying out a heel stamp to the rear, keep your toes
pointing downwards, to make sure you connect with your target. You should hit,
rather than his thumb, the weakest point, i.e. the little finger.
Move 3 : DEMONSTRATION
1. Your assailant grabs your arm.
2. Lift your foot and stamp on your assailant's foot with all your might.
3. Then wrench your arm free.
Move 4 : KNEEING YOUR OPPONENT
This is a technique used in close combat and therefore ideally suited to self
defence. Speed and power are essential for this move to be effective. The top
of your knee should connect with your assailant's groin.
Move 4 : DEMONSTRATION
1. Your assailant grabs you in a body hold with both arms.
2. Grab your assailant by the hips, push yourself away from him, at the same
time stepping back with one leg.
3. Pull your opponent down and bring your knee up sharply into his groin, with
as much force as you can.
BLOCKING OR DEFENSIVE TACTICS :
-------------------------------
As you would expect, it is defence and not attack, which is the cornerstone of
self defence. The object is to divert or deflect any blows or punches your
assailant may be aiming to you, and to protect your own body from severe
injury. It is only possible to attack your opponent if you first deflect his
attack on you. First, we should distinguish between the upward block, which
deflects attacks to the head and shoulders, and the downward block, which
prevents attacks on the chest and abdomen. When defending yourself, never
carry out only a blocking movement, without following it up with a counter
move. Only by doing both, will you be able to prevent any renewed attack, and
also protect yourself.
Move 1 : UPWARD BLOCK FIGURE.1
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= =
Block the attacking arm with = / / \ \ =
the area of the forearm = /**/ \**\ =
shwon in the figure.1 = / / \ \ =
( * = BLOCK HERE ) = \ \___________/ \__________/ / =
= \ RIGHT LEFT / =
= \___ ARM ARM ___/ =
= \ / =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Move your rear leg diagonally forward from the basic stance, bringing your arm
up in front of your face. The power of any attack on you can be further
diluited by stepping to the side or rear with other leg.
Move 1 : DEMONSTRATION
1. You are in the basic defence stance.
2. Your attacker tries to throw a punch to your head. You move diagonally
forwards, deflecting the power of the blow.
3. The underside of your forearm immediately blocks your attacker's striking
arm.
Move 2 : DOWNWARD BLOCK
Here, again, you should move diagonally forward from the basic position and
bring your arm down to protect the lower part of the body.
Move 2 : DEMONSTRATION
1. Your assailant attemps to punch you in the abdomen.
2. From the basic stance, move diagonally forward, slamming your arm down
sharply on your opponent's wrist.
3. Now deflect your assailant's striking arm to the side, weakening the
potential force of the blow.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= =
= PART III : DEFENCE AGAINST GRABBING AND HOLDING =
= =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Wrenching free from a body hold is not always easy. This is why it is crucial
to react as quickly as possible if an assailant tries to grab and hold you, so
that the attack can be stopped in its initial stages. However, if your
attacker has already managed to get you in a body hold, the next few pages
should help you to deal with this. By using the following techniques, with as
much power as you can, you will probably be able to break free.
FINGER WRENCH :
---------------
This can be extremely painful if properly carried out. The pain can be
maximised by pulling and twisting the finger joints. Pull the fingers away
from the joints: in this case it is up and back across the back of the hand.
Pull the little finger if possible, because this is the weakest joint.
COMPRESSION BLOW:
-----------------
Cup your hands over your assailant's ears, and then slam your hands very
sharply into the side of the head, so that the compressed air in your hands
creates pressure in the ears of your adversary. This creates a balance
distrubance and temporarily disables your attacker.
HEAD BUTT:
----------
Use your forehead, or the back of your head, to butt your opponent. This move
has the advantage of the element of surprise and will not injure you,
providing you hit your attacker's nose. You will be considerably more sure to
hit nose if you can grip your attacker's head.
OTHER VARIOUS TECHNIQUES:
-------------------------
* GETTING OUT OF A ONE-ARM HOLD
You are leaning against a fence. A man tries to force his attentions on you,
placing an arm around your shoulders. Elbow him sharply in the ribs and
follow up with a powerful punch to the nose.
* DEALING WITH AN AMBUSH
You are walking along the street. Suddenly someone grabs you and tries to
force his attentions on you. Raise your knee and, using the front kick
technique, kick your assailant in the groin.
* DEALING WITH A SHOULDER HOLD FROM BEHIND
A man is following you. He grabs you by the shoulder and tries to pull you
towards him. Spin round as fast as you can and jab his nose with the heel of
your hand.
* DEFENDING YOURSELF WHILST SEATED
You are sitting on a bench. A man sits down next to you and puts his hand
on your knee. Stay seated, swivel round and jab him in the nose with the
heel of your hand.
* WHEN YOUR BAG IS GRABBED FROM BEHIND
You are standing in the street. Suddenly someone grabs your bag from behind.
Bend your arm inwards to hold on tight to your bag and follow up with a side
kick to the knee.
* IF YOUR HAIR IS PULLED FROM THE SIDE
An assailant approaches from behind and then pulls your hair from the side.
Grab your opponent's arm and turn inwards to face him. Then jab your
attacker on the nose with the heel of your hand.
* IF YOUR HAIR IS PULLED FROM THE FRONT
Your assailant pulls your hair from the front. Grab him by the hips, pull
him down and slam your knee into his groin.
* DEALING WITH A DIAGONAL HAND HOLD
Your assailant grabs you by the forearm. Step towards your assailant. Jab
him in the nose with the heel of your hand and wrench your arm away.
* IF YOU ARE ATTACKED GETTING OUT OF YOUR CAR
Your attacker opens your car door and tries to pull you out of the car. Lean
back across the passenger seat and slam your foot heel into opponent's face
or groin. If you do NOT have time to carry out the above move, you may still
be able to defend yourself with a finger jab to the eyes.
* UNDERARM HOLD FROM BEHIND
You are about to open your car door. At that moment you are grabbed from the
rear. You raise your knee and stamp hard on your opponent's foot. Then grab
your assailant's little finger and pull it right back. Your assailant will
loosen his grip and you will be able to break free. Then jab his nose with
the heel of your hand.
* OVERARM HOLD FROM BEHIND
Your attacker grabs you from behind with both arms. Raise your knee and
stamp hard on your assailant's foot. Now pull your arm forward and snap it
back sharply into your assailant's ribs. Turn to face your attacker and jab
him in the nose with the heel of your hand.
* GETTING OUT OF A DOUBLE NELSON
Your opponent has got you in a double Nelson. You react with the utmost
speed and raise your knee. Stamp with all your weight, keeping your heel
well down. Then move your arms up and pull your attacker's little finger
wrenching it to the side. Once you have broken free, slam your elbow back
into your attacker.
* UNDERARM HOLD FROM THE FRONT
You are walking along a path. Suddenly you are grabbed from the front by
someone walking towards you. Hit your attacker on both ears using a
compression blow and break free, jabbing your assailant's nose with the
heel of your hand.
* OVERARM BODY HOLD FROM THE FRONT
Your opponent grabs you with both arms. Raise your knee and stamp hard on
your attacker's foot so that he will loosen his grip. Then knee your
assailant in the groin.
* GETTING OUT OF A HEAD HOLD
Your attacker has your head in a firm hold. Hit your attacker in the groin
with the heel of your hand. At the same time, use your other hand to pull
your attacker's hair and pull hime backwards away from you. Then jab your
attacker on the chin with the heel of your hand.
* STRANGLE HOLD FROM BEHIND
Your assailant approaches from behind and begins to strangle you. Tense your
neck muscles and stretch your arms out in front and then elbow your
assailant in the ribs, as hard as you can. At the same time, use the other
hand to free yourself from the strangle hold. Then turn around and jab your
attacker with the heel of your hand.
* STRANGLE HOLD FROM THE FRONT
You are just about to get into your car. You are attacked and your assailant
tries to strangle you with both hands. From the basic position, jab your
assailant in the nose with the heel of your hand, following through with
your hips to help you hit with more strenght. If this does NOT work, use a
finger jab to help you break free.
* FOREARM STRANGLE HOLD FROM BEHIND
You are sitting down when you are grabbed from behind. Tense your neck
muscles immediately and pull your attacker's hair forwards. If your
attacker's grip becomes too tight, use a finger jab.
* IF YOU ARE ATTACKED IN THE CAR
The attacker tries to strangle you through the car window. Tense your neck
muscles and finger jab your attacker in the eyes.
* IF YOU ARE THROWN TO THE GROUND #1
Your attacker tries to strangle you after having thrown you to the ground.
Jab him in the eyes with your fingers then pull your assailant's hair with
one hand and take hold of his chin with the other. Pull your attacker's head
downwards, twisting it at the same time, using your other hand (neck twist).
Pull your leg up and roll over sideways, freeing yourself from your
attacker.
* IF YOU ARE THROWN TO THE GROUND #2
Your assailant has brought you down and is approaching you again. He is
about to kick you. Raise your knee and then kick your opponent on the shin,
using the side kick technique.
NOTE: If attacked when lying down, make sure your legs and feet are facing
your assailant, as this gives him the least possible opportunity to
grab you.
* FIST PUNCH FROM BEHIND
You are leaning over the boot of the car. Your assailant grabs hold of your
right shoulder and tries to throw a right-hand punch to your head. Turn
round to face your attacker and block the punch with your left arm, then jab
your assailant's nose with the heel of your hand.
* FIST PUNCH FROM THE FRONT
You are about to open the door of a telephone box. Without warning someone
tries to punch you. You block the punch and jab your assailant's nose with
the heel of your hand.
* IF PUNCHED WHEN SITTING
Your attacker approaches you while you are sitting down and tries to punch
you. Turn sideways away from your attacker then jab your attacker in the
groin with the heel of your hand. Your fingers should be pointing towards
the ground.
* IF GRABBED BY THE LAPEL
Your attacker grabs hold of your lapel with his left hand and tries to punch
you with his right. You take evasive action to the right, blocking the punch
at the same time. Slam your left knee into your attacker's groin and then
jab your attacker's ear with the heel of your hand.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= =
= PART IV : DEFENCE AGAINST WEAPON ATTACK =
= =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
How to defend yourself if you are threatened with a weapon is one of the most
difficult chapters in this course. If you have not FULLY mastered the
techniques, your situation is a hazardous one. The best advice is to try to
avoid this type of confrontation in the first place. If this is not possible,
be as determinated as you can and do NOT show any hesitation.
IF THREATENED WITH A GUN:
-------------------------
Try to lull your attacker into a sense of security. Show that you are
frightened and distract your assailant by trying to engage him in a
conversation. Any offensive action you may take has to start with a diversion.
One old, but surprisingly effective, ruse is to look over your assailant's
shoulder, for example, and act as if you have seen something important or
surprising. Do NOT make a move until your assailant has fallen in the trick.
The element of surprise is very important, so you must act with the utmost
speed.
DEMONSTRATION
Your assailant is holding a gun to your chest. After you have distracted your
attacker, take evasive action sideways, grab the assailant's gun hand and push
it away from you. Then, if the gun should go off, the bullet will not hit you.
Keep hold of the attacker's hand until he has let go of the gun. After taking
evasive action - always keep the assailant's gun hand blocked - jab your
attacker in the eyes with your fingers. Hold the assailant's gun hand with one
hand and grab hold of the gun from the outside with the other. Now wrench the
gun free and pull it away backwards. You must always disarm your opponent in
order to prevent a further attack.
IF THREATENED WITH A STICK:
---------------------------
If you are threatened with a stick, make sure you dodge out of your attacker's
way, then come in as close as possible, leaving him no room to raise the stick
or put any power into a blow.
DEMONSTRATION
Your opponent is facing you, armed with a stick: he tries to hit you. From the
basic stance, take one step sideways and reach up to block the blow, thus
deflecting its force. After this evasive action, jab your assailant in the
eyes with your fingers. Now grab the stick and pull it downwards out of your
assailant's hand.
IF THREATENED WITH A KNIFE:
---------------------------
This is a very dangerous situation. Again, try to distract or disable your
attacker, by throwing keys or spitting in his face for example.
DEMONSTRATION
Stand in the basic position. Your opponent tries to stab you. You block his
arm and take a step diagonally forward at the same time, then lean forward
and jab your opponent in the eyes with your fingers. Keep hold of your
assailant's arm until you have removed the weapon.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= =
= PART V : EVERYDAY ARTICLES AS WEAPONS =
= =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
This chapter shows how everyday articles can become weapons. Umbrellas, keys,
books, newspapers and other objects, which you may be carrying, can be used in
self defence. Any sprays, such as deodorant, hairsprays or perfume can also be
extremely useful, as you can spray this into your attacker's eyes.
USING A KEY:
------------
Your assailant grabs hold of your collar with both hands. With a key in your
hand stab your assailant in the side of the face. Follow this up by jabbing
your assailant's nose with the heel of your hand to free yourself completely.
USING A ROLLED-UP NEWSPAPER:
----------------------------
Your attacker grabs your arm from behind. Turn and face your attacker and jab
him under the nose with the rolled-up newspaper.
USING A BOOK AGAINST ATTACK FROM THE FRONT:
-------------------------------------------
Your attacker grabs you fron the front and prepares to punch you. You step
forward and block the punch with your forearm and jab the book under your
assailant's nose.
USING A BOOK AGAINST ATTACK FROM THE SIDE:
------------------------------------------
Your attacker approaches from the side and grabs your shoulder. You turn away
sideways and jab the book under your assailant's nose with both hands.
USING AN UMBRELLA:
------------------
You are strolling along the street. Your attacker grabs you from behind and
tries to force his attentions upon you. You immediately swivel your hips away
and slam your umbrella into your assailant's groin.
USING A HANDBAG:
----------------
You are walking along the park. Your assailant pesters you and tries to stop
you. Without hesitating, you take your handbag from the shoulder and hit your
attacker in the face with it, distracting him for a moment. The you can use a
front kick to kick your assailant in the groin.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= =
= PART VI : DISCLAIMER =
= =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
That's all folks. I spent 6 hours to type this file but now it's finished,
thanx to God. I hope you'll enjoy my work. But DO NOT forget, I say, DO NOT
forget following main points:
* THIS COURSE IS DESIGNATED FOR SELF DEFENCE ONLY AND NOT FOR STREET FIGHTING.
ENOUGH SAID. ^^^^
* SPREAD IT AROUND AS MUCH AS YOU CAN !!!!
* THIS COURSE IS GREETWARE, THAT MEANS IF YOU LIKE IT YOU MUST GREET TO THE
WRITER OF THIS FILE (I.E. ME!!!!)
* YOU CAN CONTACT ME IN THE FOLLOWING MANNER :
- CALL VIA TYMNET OR TELENET FRENCH CHAT CALLED QSD (NUA 0208057040540)
- GO IN MAIL AND LEAVE A MESSAGE TO RENEGADE [RAF]
- ITALIAN USERS CAN ALSO CONTACT ME JOINING VANESSA OR SAMANTHA CHAT !